MERRY  CRIISAD 

TO  THE 

GOLDEN  GATE 


BANCROFT 
LIBRARY 

•o 

THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 
OF  CALIFORNIA 


A 

MERRY    CRUSADE 

TO   THE 

GOLDEN    GATE 


UNDER    THE    BANNERS    OF 


Allegheny  Commandery,  No.  35, 
Knights   Templar,  Allegheny,  Pa. 


A    COMPLETE    STORY    OF    THE 


TWENTY-NINTH    TRIENNIAL    CONCLAVE 

Grand   Encampment,  Knights  Templar,  U.S.A. 
SAN     FRANCISCO,    CAL,   SEPTEMBER,   1904 


AND 


A  TOUR  OF  TEN   THOUSAND   MILES  THROUGH 
THE  WONDERLAND  OF  THE  WEST 


BY 

EDMUND    FREDERICK    ERK 


COPYRIGHT,  1906, 

BY 
EDMUND    FREDERICK   ERK 


The  Werner  Company,  Akron,  O.  and  Pittsburgh,  Pa. 


I- 

0(^0-33 

E 


TO 

THOSE    WHO    HAVE 
GUIDED    AND    GUARDED    US    ALONG    LIFE'S    PILGRIMAGE  — 

2>ear  jfolfcs  at  1bome" 

THIS    VOLUME    IS 
AFFECTIONATELY    INSCRIBED 


(ix) 


Bio 


SIR  WM.  A.  AEBERLI 
SIR  ROBERT  J.  BOVARD 
SIR  JOHN  F.  BENKART 
MRS.  JOHN  F.  BENKART 
Miss  SELMA  BENKART 
SIR  G.  G.  BIDDLE 
MRS.  G.  G.  BIDDLE 
SIR  FRED  W.  BECKERT 
SIR  JOHN  BADER 
Miss  MARY  BADER 
SIR  CARL  A.  BAUMANN 
SIR  EDWARD  BURRY 
Miss  SADIE  CAMPBELL 
SIR  CHAS.  S.  CRAIG 
SIR  SAMUEL  COOMBS 
SIR  EDMUND  F.  ERK 
SIR  HERMAN  FLECHSIG 
MRS.  HERMAN  FLECHSIG 
SIR  O.  C.  GREENAWALT 
SIR  WAYNE  GILLAND 
SIR  JOSEPH  J.  GILCHRIST 
SIR  ROBERT  J.  GRAHAM 
Miss  G.  HILLERICH 
Miss  T.  HILLERICH 
SIR  C.  C.  HECKEL 
BRO.  JOHN  HANLEY 
MRS.  JOHN  HANLEY 
SIR  W.  H.  JACK 
SIR  HARRY  KREPS 
SIR  EDWARD  KUNBERGER 


SIR  HARRY  W.  LOWRIE 
MRS.  HARRY  W.  LOWRIE 
MR.  IVOR  MORRIS  LOWRIE 
MR.  M.  LENINGER 
SIR  WM.  G.  LEE 
MRS.  WM.  G.  LEE 
SIR  B.  SCOTT  M'FARLAND 
MR.  Jos.  A.  NULL 
SIR  W.  F.  PEARS 
SIR  W.  G.  REEL 
SIR  OSCAR  SCHULZE 
MRS.  OSCAR  SCHULZE 
Miss  ADDIE  SCHULZE 
Miss  LYDIA  SCHULZE 
MR.  HERBERT  SCHULZE 
SIR  WM.  A.  SEILING 
MRS.  WM.  A.  SEILING 
SIR  H.  GLENN  SAMPLE 
BRO.  A.  F.  SCHWERD 
MRS.  A.  F.  SCHWERD 
SIR  PHILLIP  STEINMILLER 
MRS.  PHILLIP  STEINMILLER 
Miss  MAGGIE  STEINMILLER 
SIR  WALTER  SHOOK 
SIR  WM.  J.  STAIGER 
SIR  R.  C.  TANNEHILL 
MRS.  R.  C.  TANNEHILL 
SIR  H.  H.  TAYLOR 
SIR  DAVID  B.  WATSON 
SIR  WM.  S.  WATSON 


COMMITTEE 

SIR  HARRY  W.  LOWRIE  SIR  OSCAR  SCHULZE 

SIR  HERMAN  FLECHSIG 


PRESS  REPRESENTATIVE 

SIR  EDMUND  F.  ERK 


,u< 


cfions 


•«»» 


Fitting  is   this  glad   occasion    for   fond   memories   galore, 
Of   the   pilgrimage   to   'Frisco,  on    the   bright   Pacific   shore  — 
To  the    city   of    the    Conclave,  where    fraternity   held    sway. 
And   to  other    scenes    of    pleasure    as  we    journeyed  on    our 
way. 

Back    again   come   recollections  of    the   frolics    on   the   train, 

As  we  sped  o'er  hill  and  valley  and  were  whirled  across 
the  plain  ; 

And  the  friends  —  we  can't  forget  them— who  gave  greet- 
ing as  we  went, 

Cheering  us  upon  our  travels  o'er  the  wide-stretched  con- 
tinent. 

There    are    memories    inspiring    of   the    mountains   capped 

with   snow 
Of     Pike's    Peak,     whose     hoary    summit     first    reflects    the 

morning  glow  — 
Of  the  Yellowstone,   whose    geysers   and    rare  wonders  met 

our  eyes, 
Of    the    soul-entrancing    beauty    of   the     western     sapphire 

skies. 

\     We   recall   the   many   marvels   in   wild   Arizona   shown  — 
Rocky   passes,  gorges,  desert,  and  Grand  Canyon's  bulk 

of  stone  ; 
Nature  spread  her  panorama  everywhere  we  pleased  to 

roam, 

And  a  thousand  topics  furnished  for  the  journeying  back 
home. 

Sweet    to    us   are    recollections    of   the    friendships    that    we 

made, 

'And    the    kind,    fraternal   spirit    that     was    everywhere    dis- 
played. 
All  the  scenes  that  charmed  our  vision,  all  the  friendships 

and  the  smiles, 

Are  again  before    vis  pictured  with  that  glad   ten   thousand 
miles. 

EDMUND    F.    ERK. 


v> 


jForcwocb 


ONORED  wherever  Templarism  is  known  and  enjoying  world- 
wide   distinction    and    reputation    as    travelers  —  having 
twice    made   pilgrimages    throughout    Europe  —  there 
was    little    surprise   announced    when    public   knowl- 
edge was  given  that  Allegheny  Commandery  No.  35, 
Knights   Templar,    would   make   a  trans-continental 
jaunt  to  attend  the  Twenty-ninth  Triennial  Conclave, 
Knights    Templar,    United    States   of  America,  which 
was   held  in  San  Francisco  in  September,   1904. 

An  itinerary  was  skillfully  arranged  that  carried  the  special  train 
of  pilgrims  over  ten  thousand  miles  and  through  nearly  every  portion 
of  "America's  Wonderland"  in  a  tour  of  about  six  weeks'  duration. 
At  the  suggestion  of  several  Sir  Knights  who  participated  in  the  trip, 
I  decided  to  prepare  a  history  of  the  tour,  and  to  chronicle  as  many 
of  the  interesting  incidents  that  transpired  as  had  come  to  my  notice. 
In  justice  to  myself  it  must  be  confessed  that  this  work  has  been 
somewhat  hastily  prepared,  and  to  this  end,  efforts  toward  literary 
style  have  been  sacrificed. 

Here  and  there  a  sentence  may  need  straightening  out  and  some 
thought  might  have  been  given  better  expression.  My  first  desire 
was  to  go  over  each  chapter  and  add  a  little  here,  and  take  away  a 
little  there ;  polishing  up  and  burnishing  as  I  went  along.  But 
when  I  looked  over  them  my  heart  failed  me.  I  remembered  the 
circumstances  surrounding  the  writing  of  every  one  of  them  and  I 
shall  let  them  alone. 

It  is  hoped  that  this  volume  will  appeal  to  that  large  class  of 
readers  which  takes  pleasure  in  traveling  by  imagination,  as  well  as 
to  those  who  have  actually  seen  the  objects  described. 

(xi) 


Xll  FOREWORD 

That  it  is  not  burdensome  with  statistics,  nor  too  intricate  in 
prolixity  of  description,  but  breathes  a  spirit  of  good  will,  of  hope- 
fulness and  appreciation  that  will  induce  the  reader  to  travel  with  us. 

That  it  presents  to  the  fraters  who  have  traveled  from  all  points 
of  the  continent,  and  from  across  the  seas,  a  souvenir  which  will 
pleasantly  remind  them  of  their  pilgrimage  to  the  land  of  sunshine 
in  a  year  most  favorable  and  opportune,  and  one  intended  to  com- 
memorate the  assembling,  upon  the  golden  shores  of  the  vast  Pacific, 
some  forty  thousand  Sir  Knights  in  Triennial  Conclave. 

That  the  reader,  recognizing  the  difficulties  of  adequate  treat- 
ment of  so  great  a  subject,  may  find  in  the  interest  it  inspires  an 
indulgent  excuse  of  any  shortcomings. 

Truly,  we  have  traveled  over  but  a  mere  portion  of  this  broad 
land  of  ours,  but  enough,  quite  enough,  to  give  an  idea  of  its  won- 
ders and  vastness  and  to  impress  the  noble  and  patriotic  thought  of 
Thoreau  and  Cook,  so  essential  to  all  of  us:  "Nothing  can  be  hoped 
for  you  if  this  bit  of  mould  under  your  feet  is  not  sweeter  to  you 
than  any  other  in  the  world." 

In  addition  I  have,  as  nearly  as  possible,  in  this  volume  endeav- 
ored to  set  forth  accurately  the  daily  incidents  of  the  "Big  Happy 
Family  "  and  of  its  members  individually.  I  trust  it  will  serve  as  a 
memento  of  that  happy  pilgrimage  and  if  it  serves  to  spend  an  hour 
pleasantly  in  your  company  I  shall  feel  fully  satisfied  and  amply  repaid. 
As  to  what  measure  of  success  has  crowned  my  efforts  I  leave  to  the 
judgment  of  the  reader  with  the  confidence  born  of  conscientious  and 
faithful  effort.  E.  F.  E. 


The  author  is  indebted  to  Mr.  C.  A.  Cairns,  The  Chicago  and  Northwestern  Railway  Company;  Mr.  E.  L. 
Lomax,  The  Union  Pacific  Railroad  Company;  Mr.  S.  K.  Hooper,  The  Denver  and  Rio  Grande  Railroad  Company; 
Mr.  C.  W.  Sells,  the  Manitou  and  Pike's  Peak  Railway  Company;  Mr.  D.  C.  Mac  Walters,  The  Colorado  Springs 
and  Cripple  Creek  District  Railway  Company;  Mr.  D.  E.  Burley,  The  Oregon  Short  Line  Railroad  Company;  Mr. 
A.  M.  Cleland,  The  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  Company;  Mr.  Jas.  Horsburgh,  Jr.,  Southern  Pacific  Company;  Mr. 
A.  D.  Shepard,  Mr.  C.  S.  Aiken,  Pacific  Improvement  Company;  Mr.  F.  E.  Shellaberger,  Mr.  W.  H.  Simpson,  The 
Atchison,  Topeka  and  Santa  F6  Railway  System;  Mr.  Frank  S.  Thayer,  Denver,  Col.,  Mr.  F.  Jay  Haynes,  St.  Paul, 
Minn.,  Mr.  Louis  Roesch,  San  Francisco,  Cal.,  for  their  courtesy  in  permitting  the  use  of  many  of  the  illustrations 
in  this  volume. 


TEable  of  Contents 


SEVEN  HUNDRED  AND  FIFTY  ILLUSTRATIONS. 
FOND  RECOLLECTIONS  —  THE  BIG  HAPPY  FAMILY  —  FOREWORD. 

CHAPTER    I. 

"  All-la-board  "  —  The  "Bon  Voyage"  — The  Big  Happy  Family  — 
"Luncheon  redda'  in  the  dinin'  cah"  —  Afternoon  of  the  First 
Day  —  Arrival  at  Chicago  —  Toward  the  Upper  Mississippi  —  Inci- 
dents by  the  Way 1-7 

CHAPTER  II. 

The  Alarm  Clock  —  Across  Iowa  —  Cedar  Rapids  —  Belle  Plain — Tama  — 
Burry's  Inoffensive  Bazoo  —  The  Boyer  Valley  —  Missouri  Valley  — 
The  Missouri  Bluffs  —  Council  Bluffs  —  Omaha — A  Gala  Day  for 
Millard  —  Larceny  on  the  Western  Plains,  Taking  Things  from 
Dumb  Animals  —  Our  Music  and  the  "  Terrible  Quartette  "  —  Co- 
lumbus, Nebraska  —  Lexington —  Incidents  by  the  Way 7-13 

CHAPTER  III. 

A  Mass  Meeting  in  the  "Stag"  Coach  —  The  Consumptive  Accordion  — 
The  Verdict  —  The  Prairies  of  Nebraska  —  Julesburg,  Colorado  — 
Overland  Stage  Route  —  Sterling  —  A  Sociable  Horse — Ranch 
Life — Activity  Among  the  Pilgrims  —  Denver —  Mantle-pieces  for 
the  Skies  —  The  Rockies  —  Experience  in  "  See  Denver  by  Trolley  " 
Car— All  You  Can  Eat  for  Twenty-five  Cents  —  The  "  Free-from- 
Care  Feeling  "  — Approaching  Pike's  Peak  —  The  "  Terrible  Quar- 
tette" —  The  High  Seas  of  a  Vocal  List —  Incidents  by  the  Way. .  .  13-29 

CHAPTER    IV. 

Early  Rising  at  Colorado  Springs  —  Observing  the  Sun  Create  the  New 
Morn  —  Bath  in  the  Open  —  The  Invaders  and  the  Telegraph  Opera- 
tor—  Noise  by  the  Original  Pilgrimage  Musicians  —  Manitou  — 
Soda,  Sulphur  and  Iron  Springs  —  Grand  Caverns — Cog  Wheel 
Railroad  — Ascending  Pike's  Peak  — Summit  Pike's  Peak  — De- 
scending from  the  Peak  —  "Garden  of  the  Gods"  —  North  and 
South  Cheyenne  Canyons  —  Seven  Falls — Pillar  of  Hercules  — 
Sunset  —  The  Dinner  that  Wasn't  and  Why  the  Boys  Didn't 

Dance  —  Nature  Sleeps  —  Incidents  by  the  Way 29-46 

(xiii) 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS 

CHAPTER    V. 

"  The  Short  Line  "  —  Scenic  Creations  —  Colorado  Springs  —  The  Engi- 
neer, a  Big,  Good-souled  Fellow  —  A  Memorable  Look  at  Pike's 
Peak  —  Oscar's  Superb  Idea  —  A  Jump  off  the  Summit  —  Pittsburgh 
Tobies  —  A  Delightful,  Harmless  Game  of  Euchre  —  Burry's 
Sweater  —  Selling's  Feast  of  Melons  —  A.  Moving  Panorama  — 
Pueblo  —  Canyon  City — Royal  Gorge  —  Grand  Canyon  of  the 
Arkansas  —  Scenic  Gems  of  Colorado  —  Portals  of  Grandeur  — 
Auditorium  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  —  Leadville  —  Tennessee 
Pass  —  Mountain  of  the  Holy  Cross  —  Sunset  —  "  The  Night  of  the 
Party"  —  A  Spectacle  That  Found  Its  Strength  in  Its  Serenity  — 
Canyon  of  the  Grand  River  —  Valley  of  the  Eagle  River  —  Dream- 
land of  Stone  —  Nature's  Gigantic  Specimen  of  Ancient  Architec- 
ture—  Glenwood  Springs  —  The  Entertainment  Voted  a  Glorious 
Success  —  The  Trackless  Thoroughfares  of  God  in  the  Midnight 
Skies  —  Incidents  by  the  Way 47~S6 

CHAPTER    VI. 

The  Silent  Battle  of  Dawn  and  Darkness —  "  Castle  Gate  "  —  The  Wasatch 
Range — Salt  Lake  City  —  Saltair  Beach  —  Bathing  in  Salt  Lake  — 
The  Sun  Was  Eclipsed  for  an  Instant  —  Not  a  Believer  in  the  Com- 
mercial in  Art  —  "  Bill  "  Was  not  Desirous  of  Seeing  Fond  Attention 
Wasted  on  Counterfeit  Ailments  —  The  First  Mormon  Colony  —  A 
Tour  of  the  City  —  Temple  Square — Mormon  Tabernacle  — 
"Assembly  Hall"  —  Mormon  Temple  —  Matrimony  Is  a  Good 
Thing,  but  It  Can  Be  and  Is  Overdone  —  Preparing  the  Physical  for 
the  Grand,  Strenuous  Expedition  to  Come  —  Incidents  by  the  Way  57-62 

CHAPTER    VII. 

Arriving  at  Monida,  Montana  —  We  Stood  Face  to  Face  with  the  Strenu- 
ous Life  of  the  West  —  The  Coach  and  Fiery  Mustangs  —  Entering 
an  Expedition  within  an  Expedition  —  Farewell  to  Our  "  Special "  — 
Our  Coaches  Were  Off  Like  a  Pack  of  Well  Trained  Hounds  — The 
Race  to  Lakeview — Deeply  Touched  by  Nature  —  Trophy  of  the 
Chase  —  Lakeview  Inn  —  "  Davie  "  Tries  To  Identify  His  Compan- 
ions—  The  Snow  Slides  —  Targhe  Pass  —  Crossing  the  Snake 
River  —  The  Scene  of  a  Thunder  Storm  60  Miles  Away  —  The  Inn 
on  the  Border  of  the  Park  —  A  Day  of  Rare  Holiday  Frolic  —  Inci- 
dents by  the  Way 63-75 

CHAPTER   VIII. 

Entering  the  Yellowstone  National  Park  —  Uncle  Sam's  Famous  Breath- 
ing Spots  —  Christmas  Tree  Park  —  Deer,  Elk  and  Eagle  —  We  Dis- 
cussed Everything  We  Knew,  as  Well  as  Things  We  Were  Not  Cer- 
tain About  — The  Driver  Took  Up  the  Thread  of  His  Life's  His- 
tory—  The  Heart  to  Heart  Talk  among  Congenial  Companions  — 
Cheered  by  Our  Own  Melodies  —  There  Are  Two  Kinds  of  Music  — 
Riverside  Station  —  Firehole  River  —  Arriving  at  Fountain  Hotel  — 
Mistaken  for  a  Stranded  Circus  Troupe  —  Fondest  Anticipations  of 
a  Meal  —  Tenement  House  Torture  on  a  "  near-piano  "  —  Geysers, 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS  XV 

Hot  Springs,  Paint  Pots,  Pools  and  Other  Natural  Curiosities  in  the 
Lower  Geyser  Basin  —  The  Struggle  between  the  Subterranean 
Fires  and  Peaceful  Vegetation  —  Government  Soldiers  —  Bears  at 
Fountain  Hotel  —  Bear  Stories  and  Stories  You  Can't  Bear — Tan- 
cred  Commandery  No.  48  of  Pittsburgh — Experience  in  a  Yellow- 
stone Park  Barber  Shop  —  Mary  Commandery  of  Philadelphia  — 
The  Law  and  Order  Committee  Very  Charitably  Agreed  Not  To 
Allow  "Bobbie"  and  "  Joe"  To  Sing  —  "  Bobbie's"  Scheme  to  Aid 
Some  "Noble  Charity"  —  "As  the  Hours  of  Morning  Hovered 
Near"  —  The  Geyser  Formations  Compared  with  the  "  Seven  Ages 
of  Man  "  —  The  Day  Sleeps  with  Open  Eyes  —  Incidents  by  the  Way  76-88 

CHAPTER    IX. 

Resting  in  the  Bosom  of  Glorious  Nature  —  Isolation  from  the  World  Leads 
to  Forgetfulness — Bound  for  Faithful  Inn  —  Party  Left  Behind  — 
The  Tenderfoot  Can  Sustain  Things  Which  the  Strenuous  Man  of  the 
West  Finds  beyond  His  Physique  —  Middle  Geyser  Basin — Hell's 
Half  Acre  — Upper  Geyser  Basin— "Old  Faithful "  — A  Pictur- 
esque Hostelry  —  Again  the  Unshaven  Were  Directed  to  the  Boiler 
Room — More  Bears — Mary  Commandery  of  Philadelphia — The 
Author's  Unfamiliarity  of  Technical  Makeup  of  Ladies'  Gar- 
ments —  Features  of  the  Evening  —  Incidents  by -the  Way 89-100 

CHAPTER    X. 

En  route  to  Thumb  Station  and  the  Yellowstone  Lake  —  "  He  Helps  Those 
Who  Help  Themselves"  —  Continental  Divide  —  Arrival  at  West 
Thumb  Station  —  Paint  Pots  and  Hot  Springs  —  Rain  and  Hail  — 
Arrival  at  Lake  Hotel —  "  Freddie's  "  Fishing  Ability  —  Mary  Com- 
mandery of  Philadelphia  —  Features  of  the  Evening — More  Bear  — 
A  Contrast  that  Offered  a  Text  for  Talk  — A  Cool,  Almost  Wintry 
Night  Came  with  the  Stars  —  A  Summing  up  of  the  Day's  Events — 
"  Good  Night "  —  Incidents  by  the  Way 100-105 

CHAPTER    XI. 

"Freddie"  Didn't  Get  Any  Fish,  But  He  Did  Get  the  Wish-bone  — The 
Lake —  En  route  to  the  Grand  Canyon  of  the  Yellowstone  —  Yel- 
lowstone River  —  Bridger  Lake  —  Anticipation  of  the  Scenes  We 
Were  to  Behold  —  Hayden  Valley  —  Arrival  at  the  Grand  Canyon 
of  the  Yellowstone  —  Upper  and  Lower  Falls  —  "  Point  Lookout "  — 
"Grand  View"  —  The  "Brink" — Canyon  Hotel  —  Mary  Com- 
mandery of  Philadelphia  —  Features  of  the  Evening  —  A  Discussion 
of  the  Park  and  Its  History —  Aeberli  and  Reel  Play  the  Star  Roles  — 
A  Midnight  Bath  in  Alum  Creek  or  the  True  Fountain  of  Youth  — 
The  Candle  Burned  at  Both  Ends  — The  Raging  Waterfalls  a  Sleep- 
wrecker —  Incidents  by  the  Way 105-114 

CHAPTER    XII. 

A  Morning  of  Calm  Beauty  —  En  route  to  Norris  Geyser  Basin  —  Nature 
Changed  Her  Attire  —  Through  the  Shadow  of  the  Forest  —  Treas- 
ury of  Untold  Wealth  in  Timber— "Twin  Tree" —The  Unblem- 


XVI  TABLE  OP  CONTENTS 

ished  Face  of  Virgin  Nature  —  The  Household  of  Nature  —  Norris 
Geyser  Basin  —  Mary  Commandery  of  Philadelphia  —  Mammoth 
Hot  Springs  —  "  Northern  Gate"  —  "  Gardner  Entrance"  —  Gibbon 
River  and  Gibbon  Falls  —  Boundless  Forests  —  Dreamy  Thoughts 
of  Enchanted  Folk  and  Pleasing  Legendary  Fables  —  A  Secret  that 
May  Be  Hidden  from  the  Philosopher  and  yet  Be  Clear  to  the  In- 
fant—  Madison  River — "The  Stone  Bruise  to  Our  Memory"  — 
Return  to  the  Inn  on  the  Border  —  Food  for  "  Rock-me-to-sleep, 
Mother"  —  The  Customary  Line-up — Something  to  Encourage 
the  Appetite  but  Discourage  it  Immediately  Thereafter  —  The  First 
Mutiny  —  Incidents  at  the  Inn  —  "  Davie"  Compelled  to  Lie  Awake 
in  Lonesome  Misery  —  Midnight  Experience  with  an  Owl — Inci- 
dents by  the  Way 114-121 

CHAPTER    XIII. 

Bound  for  Monida  —  Fancy  Shots  —  Exterminating  the  Duck  Tribe  —  Ar- 
rival at  Lakeview  Inn  —  Exercise  in  Calisthenics  —  The  "Bum 
Coach"  —  The  Race — "Three  Fingered  Mike" — "Home" 
Again  —  A  Night  Typical  of  Old  Times  —  Pleasant  Memories  of  a 
Trip  through  the  Yellowstone  National  Park — En  route  toOgden  — 
Sandstorm  —  Incidents  by  the  Way 122-127 

CHAPTER    XIV. 

In  the  Light  of  the  Newborn  Day  —  Old-Fashioned  Home-Life  Aboard 
the  Train  —  The  Same  Mass  Meeting — Disturbing  Elements  of  the 
Deliberating  Conferences  —  Arrival  at  Ogden,  Utah  —  Change  in 
the  Time  Standard —  "  Ogden- Lucin  Cut-Off"  —  Across  the  Great 
Salt  Lake  —  Promontory  Station  —  Nevada  State  Line  —  Tecoma  — 
Pilot  Peak — Moor  Station  —  Coyotes  and  Prairie  Dogs  are 
"  Birds  of  a  Different  Feather"  —  The  Great  American  Desert  (also 
Known  as  the  Humboldt  Desert)  —  "  Pinched  Lights  "  —  Palisade  — 
"  Knights  of  the  Road  "  Basking  on  the  Promenade  Deck  —  Cluro  — 
Beowawe  —  Shoshone  —  Battle  Mountain  —  Stone  House  —  Iron 
Point  —  Winnemucca  —  Humboldt — "Bobbie"  Voted  a  Nightin- 
gale—  The  Past,  Present,  and  Possible  Future  of  the  Great  Ameri- 
can Desert —  Incidents  by  the  Way 127-134 

CHAPTER     XV. 

Far  Removed  from  the  Chain  of  Cities  —  Every  Land  on  Earth  Has  Its  Joy- 
ous Awakening  —  Wadsworth  —  Vista  —  Reno  —  The  Truckee- 
Carson  Canal  —  The  Reclamation  Act  —  Carson  City — Virginia 
City  —  Verdi  —  State  Line  —  Entering  California  —  Floriston  — 
Truckee  —  Indian  and  Squaw  —  Lake  Tahoe  —  Independence  Lake — 
Donner  Lake  —  Summit  —  Sierra  Nevadas — A  Succession  of  Tun- 
nels and  Snowsheds  —  Little  Stations,  Which  Have  the  Flavor  of 
Mining  Camps  —  Mount  Sha-sta  —  Sacramento  Valley  —  Chico  — 
Marysville — Colonia  —  El  Dorado  —  Cape  Horn  —  American 
River  —  Iowa  Hill  —  Auburn — Irrigating  the  Sacramento  Valley  — 
Forest  Fire  —  New  Castle  —  Penryn  —  Loomis  —  Rocklin  —  Rose- 
ville  —  Antelope  —  Sacramento  —  Meeting  the  Escort  —  Benicia — 
Port  Costa  —  San  Francisco  Bay  —  Oakland  —  The  City  of  Joy  and 


TABLE   OF   CONTENTS  xvii 

Festivity  —  The  Conclave  City  —  San  Francisco  —  Escort  to  the 
Hotel  —  Our  Cosmopolitan  Hotel  and  Experiences  Therein — The 
City  is  Dressed  in  Holiday  Attire,  Her  Gates  are  Open  to  Receive 
Her  Guests,  Her  Streets  and  Homes  are  Lighted,  The  Tables  are 
Spread  and  the  Feast  is  Set — The  Great  Display  and  Knightly 
Hospitality  of  the  Metropolis  of  the  Pacific  —  Sir  Robert's  Expe- 
rience in  a  'Frisco  Barber  Shop  —  Shaving  Prices  at  a  Tonsorial  Ex- 
change —  Sir  Tannehill's  Pain  Recompensed  the  Company's  Pane  — 
The  Illumination  —  The  First  Night  in  'Frisco  a  Stirring  and  Mem- 
orable One  —  Incidents  by  the  Way 135-149 

CHAPTER    XVI. 

Special  Services  by  California  Commandery  No.  i  and  Golden  Gate  Com- 
mandery  No.  16,  Morning,  Afternoon  and  Evening  —  California 
Commanderies'  Headquarters  —  Golden  Gate  Park  —  Cliff  House  — 
Seal  Rocks  —  Sutro  Baths  —  Sutro  Heights — Evening  Drives  and 
Trolley  Rides  —  The  Diaries  and  Historians  Fall  by  the  Wayside  — 
Incidents  by  the  Way 149-155 

CHAPTER    XVII. 

Not  a  Single  Flea  in 'Frisco  —  Sir  Otto's  Physical  Culture  Exercise  — 
The  Conclave  Program  for  the  Day  —  Labor  Day  in  California  — 
Arrival  of  the  Earl  of  Euston  (Personal  Representative  of  King  Ed- 
ward) and  the  Delegation  Representing  the  Grand  Priory  of  Eng- 
land and  Wales  —  Directory  of  Commanderies  and  Delegations  at 
the  Conclave  —  Sight-seeing  Expeditions  —  The  Presidio — Walter 
and  Ivor,  Gallant  to  a  Fault  —  The  Navy  Department  and  Govern- 
ment Ships  —  An  Afternoon  of  Ceaseless  Activity — San  Francisco 
a  Tourist's  Mecca  —  Oakland  —  Berkeley — Alameda  —  Mt.  Tamal- 
pais — Fort  Mason — Fisherman's  Wharf  —  The  Water  Front  — 
The  Spirit  of  Roving  and  Adventure  Pervades  the  Scene  —  Where 
Will  You  Go?  —  The  Bay  of  San  Francisco  —  Point  Richmond  — 
San  Pablo  Bay  —  Mare  Islands  —  Mount  Diablo  —  Franciscan  Mis- 
sion-builders—  The  Mission  Dolores  —  Early  Story  of  San  Fran- 
cisco and  its  History  Up-to-date  —  Telegraph  Hill  —  Nob  Hill  — 
Park  Peak  —  Mission  Peaks — State  Prison  on  Point  San  Quentin  — 
Angel  Island  —  Raccoon  Straits — Hospital  Cove  —  United  States 
Quarantine  Station  —  Sheep  Island  —  Goat  Island  —  Naval  Training 
School  —  The  Golden  Gate  —  Island  of  Alcatraz  —  Entertainments 
and  Receptions  Afternoon  and  Evening  —  The  City  in  Gala  Attire 
and  in  Possession  of  a  Merry  and  Loving  Gathering  —  Chinatown 
by  Day  and  Night  —  Chinese  Theater  and  Chinese  Play — Chinese 
Performance  in  Detail  —  Life  of  a  Chinese  Actor  —  Incidents  by 
the  Way 155-172 

CHAPTER    XVIII. 

The  Day  of  the  Parade — Sir  Seiling  Did  Not  Care  to  Establish  a  Tiresome 
Summer  Fashion  —  "Before  and  After  Taking  "  Advertisement  in 
the  Ranks  of  Allegheny  Paraders  Averted  —  The  Conclave  Pro- 
gram for  the  Day — The  Parade,  The  Formation  and  Various  Divi- 
sions in  Detail — Water-Bottle  Wagons  and  the  Shasta  Shower 


XViii  TABLE  OP  CONTENTS 

Bath — Sad  Incident  of  the  Parade  in  the  Death  of  Gallant  Sir 
Knight  Joseph  Leath  —  The  Grand  Commandery  and  Session  of  the 
Grand  Encampment  —  Events  for  Afternoon  and  Evening  Visita- 
tion —  Incidents  by  the  Way 173-179 

CHAPTER    XIX. 

"Old  Sol  "a  Distinguished  Knight — Competitive  Drill  —  Bay  Excursion  — 
The  Conclave  —  The  Conclave  Program  for  the  Day  —  Events  for 
Afternoon  and  Evening  Visitation — Sight-seeing  in  the  "  Poor 
Man's"  Automobile,  The  Trolley  Car — Newspaper  Row — Dewey 
Monument — Old-time  Mansions  —  Nob  Hill  —  Telegraph  Hill  — 
Fairmont  Hotel  —  Hopkins  Institute  of  Art  —  Hall  of  Justice  — 
Ferry  Depot  —  Waterfront  —  Oakland  —  Alameda  —  Berkeley  — 
University  of  California  —  Alcatraz  Island  —  Yerba  Buena  Island  — 
Sansalito  —  Point  Richmond  —  Mount  Tamalpais  and  Mount  Dia- 
blo—  Preside  Government  Reservation — Fort  Mason — Laurel  Hill 
Cemetery  —  Richmond  District  —  Golden  Gate  Park  —  Govern- 
ment Life  Saving  Station  —  Sutro  Gardens — Strawberry  Hill  — 
Ashbury  Heights — Mount  Olympus  —  City  Hall,  the  Hall  of  Rec- 
ords, Mechanics  Pavilion  and  Post  Office  —  Academy  of  Science 
and  Pioneer  Hall —  United  States  Mint  —  A  City  of  Fair  Aspect — 
San  Francisco's  Topography — Union  Ferry  Depot  —  The  Cos- 
mopolitan Air  of  San  Francisco  and  the  City  Generally — Union 
Iron  Works  — The  City  Stands  on  the  Threshold  That  Looks  Into 
Greater  Possibilities  —  Pittsburgh  Commandery  No.  i  Reception — 
Receptions  of  the  Evening  —  Banquet  in  Honor  of  the  Grand  En- 
campment of  the  United  States — The  Press  Club  of  San  Francisco — 
"Open  Door  Policy  "  —  Incidents  by  the  Way 180-188 

CHAPTER    XX. 

The  Thermometer  Reached  an  Ambitious  Height  —  The  Conclave  Program 
for  the  Day  —  Events  for  Afternoon  and  Evening  Visitation  —  A 
Day  Filled  to  Overflowing  with  Engagements  —  Our  Last  Day  in 
the  Conclave  City  —  Farewell  Visits  —  Hospitality  of  the  Enter- 
tainers —  "  For  By  Thy  Fruit  Shall  I  Know  You  "  and  "  Such  As  I 
Have  Give  I  Unto  Thee"  —  The  Hearty  Social  Welcome  —  Bou- 
quets Became  More  Numerous  Than  our  Button-Holes  —  Pilgrims 
of  Allegheny  Commandery  Did  Justice  to  All  Things  —  California 
Grand  Commandery — California  Commandery  No.  i  —  Golden 
Gate  Commandery  No.  16  —  Los  Angeles  Commandery  No.  9  —  Sac- 
ramento Commandery  No.  2  —  California  Commanderies  —  The 
"  Trestle  Board  " — Closing  of  the  Grand  Encampment  Session  — 
The  Next  Conclave  —  Election  of  Grand  Officers —  Concert  and  En- 
tertainment in  the  Greek  Theater  —  Brilliant  Functions  in  the  Mark 
Hopkins  Institute  of  Art — Eve  of  Our  Departure  —  The  Sadness 
of  Our  Farewell  —  Incidents  by  the  Way 188-194 

CHAPTER    XXI. 

Not  a  Nationality  on  the  Hotel  Force  was  Inactive  —  Realization  of  Our 
Leave-Taking  —  California  Had  Been  a  Royal  and  Liberal  Host  — 
San  Francisco  Had  Been  Extravagant  in  Her  Hospitality  —  A  Light 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS  xix 

Whose  Radiance  Was  Unconquerable  —  We  Had  Gathered  on  the 
Very  Edge  of  the  Country  —  Recollections  Survive  Beyond  the 
Grave  —  A  Last  Look  Over  the  Beautiful  Panorama  —  The  "  Alle- 
gheny Special  "  —  En  route  to  San  Jose  —  Burlingame  —  San  Mateo — 
Belmont — Menlo  Park  —  Palo  Alto  —  Santa  Clara  Valley — Le- 
land  Stanford,  Jr.,  University  —  San  Jose  —  Santa  Clara  —  The  Cala- 
veras  Mountains  —  Mount  Hamilton  —  Lick  Observatory  —  Experi- 
ences With  a  Traveling  Astronomer  and  the  Opposition  Observa- 
tory—  Alum  Rock  —  Our  Explorers  Found  a  20  Ton  Meteor  — 
Visiting  the  Jail  (solely  a  voluntary  act)  —  San  Joaquin  Valley  — 
Discoveries  of  the  "  Forty-Niners  "  —  Big  Tree  Groves  —  Merced 
River — The  High  Sierras  —  Yosemite  Valley  —  En  route  to  Big 
Tree  Station  —  Los  Gatos  —  Santa  Cruz  Mountains  —  Impressive 
Sights  in  the  Big  Tree  Grove  —  The  Oldest  Living  Thing  on  Earth  — 
Herman  and  Oscar's  Superb  Ideas  —  Arrival  at  Santa  Cruz  —  Mon- 
terey Bay  —  Neptune  Casino  —  "  Chicken  Disrupts  Colored  Con- 
gregation "  —  Incidents  by  the  Way. 194-206 

CHAPTER    XXII. 

Capitola  —  Natural  Bridges — Noel  Heights  and  Beach  Hill  —  Twin  Lakes  — 
En  route  to  Del  Monte  —  Aptos  —  Parjaro —  None  Had  Succeeded 
in  Obtaining  a  Meal  —  The  Porter's  Adventure  —  Del  Monte  the 
Garden  of  Eden  of  the  2oth  Century  —  Del  Monte  Hotel — Seven- 
teen Mile  Drive  —  The  Old  Padre  —  Pacific  Grove  —  Junipero  Serra 
Mountains  —  Monterey  —  General  Fremont  —  Mission  ofCarmel  — 
Glass-bottom-Boats  —  Diversions  for  Hotel  Guests  —  The  Enchant- 
ing Gardens  —  An  Informal  Entertainment  at  the  Railway  Station  — 
Allegheny  "  Special  "  as  the  Center  of  a  Double  Fire  —  Incidents 
by  the  Way 206-211 

CHAPTER    XXIII. 

Paso  Rubles  —  San  Luis  Obispo  —  En  route  to  Santa  Barbara  —  The  Mis- 
leading Cry  of  Sunday  Barber  —  Arrival  at  Santa  Barbara  —  The 
Bay  —  The  Channel  —  Santa  Yuez  Mountains — Mountainous  Is- 
lands —  Caverns  and  Chambers  —  The  Old  Presido  —  Memorials  of 
Bygone  Days —  Santa  Barbara  Mission  —  Incidents  Within  the  Mis- 
sion Walls  —  Story  of  the  Missions  —  Misfit  in  Bathing  Suits  — 
A  Drama  of  a  Reverse  Nature  —  Hurried  to  the  Wrong  Station  — 
En  route  to  Los  Angeles  —  Summerland  —  Marine  Oil  Wells  —  Oil 
as  the  "Reel  Thing"  —  Ventura  —  Montalvo — Santa  Paula  — 
Sespe  —  Camulos, "  the  Home  of  Ramona  "  —  Johnston  Felt  More 
Reconciled  to  His  Own  Birthplace  —  Saugus  —  San  Fernando  Val- 
ley—  Los  Angeles,  the  Splendor  and  Interest  It  Had  to  Offer — 
Hotels  on  Wheels  —  Emergency  Hospital  on  Board  the  Train  — 
Incidents  by  the  Way 211-223 

CHAPTER     XXIV. 

Itinerary  for  the  Day — Echo  Mountain  —  Mount  Lowe — Lowe  Observatory  — 
The  Cable  Incline  —  Alpine  Railroad  —  Alpine  Tavern  —  Pasadena — 


XX  TABLE  OF  CONTENTS 

A  Staunch  Temperance  Spirit  —  Ostrich  Farm  —  Ostrich  Tales  — 
Return  to  Los  Angeles  —  Los  Angeles  Commandery  No.  9  —  "Pil- 
grim I  Greet  Thee" — The  Boundless  Hospitality  —  Moved  Again  — 
A  Thrilling  Incident —  Incidents  by  the  Way 223-229 

CHAPTER    XXV. 

Embarrassment  at  the  Hands  of  a  Confused  Laundryman — Santa  Monica  — 
Ocean  Park  —  Port  Los  Angeles  —  Swatelle  —  National  Soldiers' 
Home  —  Plaza  Del  Rey — Redondo — Hermosa  Beach  —  Seeking 
Moonstones  by  Sunlight  —  Hollywood  —  Manhattan  Beach  —  Long 
Beach — Brighton  Beach  —  Alhambra — Wilson  Peak  Park  —  Mon- 
rovia—  Pomona  —  Idyllwild  —  San  Gabriel  —  San  Diego  —  Coro- 
nado  —  The  Same  Hospitality  Reigned  Supreme  —  An  Outline  of 
Attack  for  the  Morrow  —  A  Kingdom  Without  a  King  —  Crowning 
the  King  —  Incidents  by  the  Way 229-235 

CHAPTER    XXVI. 

"The  King  Could  Do  No  Wrong"— San  Pedro  — The  Salt  Lake  Route  — 
The  Flying  Fish  —  Avalon  —  Santa  Catalina  Islands  —  "Got  Any 
Change,  Mister?"  —  Glass  Bottom  Boats  —  The  Marine  Gardens  — 
Side  Trips  at  Avalon  —  Sports  for  the  Angler  —  The  Leaping  Tuna  — 
An  Excellent  "  Ready  On"  — The  Land  Sailors  Deserted  the  Deck 
One  by  One  —  Concentrated  Rush  on  the  Part  of  the  "Stag 
Coachers" — Last  Night  in  Loa  Angeles  —  One  of  the  Most  Glorious 
Receptions  of  the  Pilgrimage —  Incidents  by  the  Way 235-240 

CHAPTER    XXVII. 

A  Few  Regrets  —  Santa  Fe"  "  Kiteshaped  "  Track  —  Santa  Anita  —  Mon- 
rovia—  Azusa — Pomona  —  Ontario —  Rialto  — San  Bernardino  — 
Redlands — Mentone  —  Highland  —  Colton  —  Riverside  —  Corona  — 
Orange  —  Fullerton  —  La  Mirada  —  "Lucky"  Baldwin  —  Arrival  at 
Riverside — Welcoming  Music  of  the  Chimes  —  The  Glenwood, 
"California's  Mission  Hotel"  —  Delightful  Drives  —  Orange 
Groves  —  Magnolia  Avenue  —  Nature  Dressed  in  Her  Prettiest 
Gown  —  The  Pepper,  Palm,  Date-palm,  Magnolia  and  Other  Tropi- 
cal Trees  —  Irrigation  Schemes  —  Cactus  Gardens  —  Sherman  Indian 
School — An  Exceptionally  Sweet  Delicacy  —  A  Hymn  Appropriate 
to  the  Occasion  —  "  Onward  Christian  Soldiers" — Leaving  River- 
side—  San  Bernardino  Mountains  —  Dethronement  of  the  Early 
Sleepers  —  Barstow  —  The  Mojave  Desert  —  Death  Valley  —  Inci- 
dents by  the  Way 240-246 

CHAPTER    XXVIII. 

The  Needles  —  Colorado  River  —  Farewell  to  California —  Rainy  Season  in 
California  —  Four  Conditions  Have  Served  to  Make  California  a 
Land  of  Fame  and  Plenty  —  Mineral  Wealth  —  Climate  —  Irriga- 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS  xxi 

tion —  Railroads  —  California's  Three  Zones  —  A  New  Factor  That 
Will  Work  Wonders  for  California  —  Entering  Arizona — The  Silent 
and  Mournful  Expanse  —  The  Custom  of  Marking  Boundaries  — 
Crude  Method  of  Establishing  Real  Estate  Possessions  —  The  Un- 
pretentious Town  of  Yucca  —  Possibilities  to  the  Souvenir  Col- 
lectors—  Curious  Conditions  Concerning  Curio  Collecting  —  Mu- 
seum of  Alleged  Antiquity  —  Murdering  the  Clock  and  the 
Cuckoo — Johnston's  Ears  Were  Trained  to  Chicken  Hunting  —  Ar- 
riving at  Kingman  —  Burry  Compelled  to  Cage  His  Sweater — 
Unique  Experiences  at  Kingman  —  Kunnie's  Havanas  —  Studying 
Human  Nature  and  "Jollying"  the  Chef  —  Mock  Trial  —  A  Crime 
of  the  Deepest  Dye  —  Hackberry  —  Peach  Springs  —  Seligman  — 
Gleed  —  Ash  Fork  —  Phoenix — Prescott — The  Fading  of  Sun- 
light—  Williams  —  En  route  to  the  Grand  Canyon —  "  Special  of 
Pittsburgh  Commandery  No.  i  "  —  Incidents  by  the  Way 246-257 

CHAPTER    XXIX. 

The  Brilliant  Dawn  Gave  Birth  to  the  Morn  —  Standing  on  the  Rim  of  the 
Grand  Canyon — The  Spectacle  of  Unparalleled  Splendor — The 
Vibrating  Cloudlets  in  the  Canyon  Below  —  The  Sun  Prevailed  in 
Undisputed  Authority  —  Light  and  Shadow  Mingled  with  Celestial 
Beauty  —  The  Canyon  from  Various  Viewpoints  —  Nature  Itself 
God's  Appointed  Celebrant  —  The  Painted  Desert  —  Echo  Cliffs  — 
Navajo  Mountains  —  A  Great  and  Priceless  Thing  is  a  New  Inter- 
est —  Going  Down  the  Trail  —  The  Burro  Has  Its  Disadvantages  — 
"My  Kingdom  for  a  Horse,"  or  Else  I  Walk  —  The  Animals  En- 
tering Upon  Their  Perilous  Journey — Self -Preservation  Takes 
Possession  of  the  Physique  —  The  "  Cork-Screw  "  —  A  Peep  Into 
a  Wonderland  —  At  the  River  —  Explorations  of  the  Grand  Can- 
yon—  The  Colorado  River  —  The  Upward  Journey  —  The  Canyon 
in  Sunset  —  Darkness  Falls  and  Night  Brimmed  Out  of  the  Deep  — 
"  Old  John  "  Hance  —  "  The  Seven  Wonders  "  and  the  Wonder  of 
Wonders  —  Nature  Sleeps  —  The  World  Began  to  Move  Again  — 
El  Tovar  Hotel  —  An  Impressive  Tableau  in  the  "  Smoker  "  —  Inci- 
dents by  the  Way 257-275 

CHAPTER    XXX. 

"  Bobbie's  "  Contract  to  be  Awakened  Early — Williams,  Arizona — A  Bridal 
Couple  —  En  route  to  Albuquerque  —  Walnut  Canyon  —  Cliff- 
Dwellers  and  Cliff -Dwellings —  Flagstaff  —  San  Francisco  Peaks  — 
Humphrey's  Peak  —  Buckskin  Mountains  —  Navajo  Mountains  — 
White  Mountains  —  Canyon  Diablo  —  Meteorite  Mountain  —  Moki 
Indian  Reservation — The  Hopi  Indians  —  The  Indian  Dance  — 
The  Snake  Dance  —  Winslow  —  The  Painted  Desert  and  Moki 
Buttes  —  Mogollon  Mountains  —  Holbrook  —  Fort  Apache  —  Ada- 
mana  —  Petrified  Forests — Border  Line  Separating  Arizona  and 
New  Mexico  —  Arizona,  the  Ancient  but  New  Southwestern  Sun- 
land —  Entering  New  Mexico  —  The  Atmosphere  of  Old  Spain  — 
Gallup  —  Serenading  the  Bridal  Couple  —  Advice  to  the  Bride  and 
Groom  —  Painful  Stories,  under  Pressure  —  Zuni  Indian  Reserva- 


XXii  TABLE  OP  CONTENTS 

tion  —  Navajo  Indian  Reservation  —  Fort  Wingate  —  Thoreau  — 
Pueblo  Bonito  —  Chaves  —  Bluewater  —  Tintero  —  Grant  —  Zuni 
Mountains  —  San  Rafael  —  McCarty's  —  Acomita  —  Cubero  —  San 
Mateo  Mountains  —  Pueblo  Indians — Acoma,  Laguna  and  Isleta 
Pueblos  —  Mesa  Encantada  —  Life  Among  the  Indians  —  Albuquer- 
que —  Sir  David  Trading  with  the  Indians  —  Sir  Kreps'  Amazing 
Knowledge  of  the  Indian  Tongue  —  Incidents  by  the  Way 275-289 

CHAPTER    XXXI. 

Rio  Grande  del  Norte  and  Galisteo  Rivers  —  Almeda  —  Bernalillo  — 
Algodores  —  Elota — Thornton  —  The  Santa  Domingo  or  Queres 
Tribe  —  Corn  Day  —  Lamy  —  Santa  F£  —  Glorieta  Pass  — Star- 
vation Peak  —  Las  Vegas  —  Gallinas  River  —  The  Town  is  Not 
Painted  Red,  but  Well-read  —  Raton —  Watrous  —  Mora  Canyon  — 
Fort  Union  —  Wagon  Mound  —  Springer — Raton  Mountains  — 
New  Mexico,  the  Land  in  the  Sky — Rapid  Strides  of  American 
Progress  —  New  Mexico,  Its  History  and  Future  —  Dick  Wooten's 
Toll-House  —  Entering  Colorado  —  Trinidad  —  A  Bare  Tale  — 
Prairie  Dogs  —  La  Junta  —  Las  Animas  —  Kit  Carson  —  Arapahoes, 
Kiowas  and  Cheyennes  Tribes  —  Big  Timbers  —  Fort  Williams  — 
The  Arkansas  Valley — Rocky  Ford  —  Lamar — Holly — Kansas 
State  Line  —  Fort  Amity — Syracuse,  Kansas  —  Garden  City  — 
Dodge  City  —  Larned  —  Pawnee  Rock  —  Great  Bend  —  Fort  Za- 
rah  —  The  Santa  F6  Trail  —  Comanches  and  Pawnees  Wagon 
Train  —  Kansas'  Indian  Lore  —  Hutchinson  —  Burrton  —  New- 
ton —  Florence  —  Strong  City  —  Emporia  —  Osage  City  —  To- 
peka  —  The  Free-State  Constitution,  Pro-Slavery  Constitution,  The 
Free-Soilers  —  "  Old  John  Brown  "  —  Kansas,  the  Leading  State  in 
the  Corn  Belt  —  Studying  Human  Nature  at  Close  Range,  Types 
Differ  in  States  —  Lawrence  —  St.  Joseph,  Mo.  —  Atchison  —  Leav- 
enworth — Kansas  City — St.  Joseph  —  Across  the  Tranquil  Fields 
We  Swept  —  Incidents  by  the  Way 289-300 

CHAPTER    XXXII. 

Arriving  at  Kansas  City  —  Tour  of  the  City — Johnston  Completely  Smitten 
by  a  Tired  Baby  Elephant  —  The  Missouri  River  —  Jefferson  City  — 
Osage  River — The  Wyandotte  Indians  —  Chillicothe — Florida  — 
Mississippi  River  —  lola  —  Public  Entertainments  on  a  Dry  Goods 
Box  —  Game  of  Billiards  —  Open  Debate  in  the  "  Wheat  Pit  "  and  the 
Discussion  on  Corn  —  Memorable  Demonstration  at  the  Station —  En 
route  to  St.  Louis —  Presentation  Speeches  —  March  Upon  the  Com- 
missary Car  —  Incidents  by  the  Way 300-306 

CHAPTER    XXXIII. 

Arriving  at  St.  Louis  —  Meeting  a  Delegation  From  Home  —  The  Louisiana 
Purchase  Exposition,  The  World's  Fair  —  Departure  From  St. 
Louis  —  Sir  Oscar's  Race  to  the  Station  —  Homeward  Bound  —  In- 
cidents by  the  Way 306-31 1 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS  xxiii 

CHAPTER    XXXIV. 

Approaching  the  End  —  Experiences  of  the  Past  Six  Weeks  —  "Davie" 
Traveling  in  State,  in  a  Private  Car  —  Each  Car  Had  Its  Function 
as  a  Stage  Upon  Which  We  Enacted  Our  Life  on  the  Rail —  The 
Circus  Ring  or  Commissary  Car  —  The  Burlesque  Stage  or  "  Stag  " 
Coach  — The  "Haven  of  Opera"  or  Third  Coach  — The  "Legiti- 
mate Performers  "  or  Fourth  Coach  —  We  Were  Going  Home  — 
Crossing  the  State  Line  —  Union  Station,  Pittsburgh  —  Allegheny, 
the  Good  Old  Home  Folks  —  Nature's  Best  Sentiment,  Home  —  In- 
cidents by  the  Way 311-314 

CONCLUSION 315 

IN     MEMORI  AM 320 


CHAPTER  I. 

ATURDAY,  August  20,  1904,  will  long  be  cherished  in  the 
memories  of  members  of  Allegheny  Commandery  No.  35, 
Knights  Templar  and  their  guests  on  that  occasion,  as  the  be- 
ginning of  a  most  delightful  pilgrimage  to  California  and  re- 
turn. Promptly  at  eight  o'clock  in  the  morning  the  entire  party  was 
assembled  at  the  train,  which  was  especially  chartered  from  the  Pitts- 
burgh, Ft.  Wayne  &  Chicago  railway  for  the  entire  tour.  It  con- 
sisted of  three  of  the  most  magnificent  Pullman  cars  in  the  com- 
pany's service,  together  with  a  seventy-foot  commissary  car,  fitted 
and  supplied  for  the  occasion. 

Although  rain  threatened  early  in  the  morning,  a  united  plea 
to  "Jupiter  Pluvius"  to  withhold  his  orders  for  an  hour  or  two  at 
least,  was  answered.  After  many  struggles,  the  effulgent  rays  of 
''Old  Sol"  came  peeping  through  the  clouds  from  above  dear  old 
Allegheny's  murky  atmosphere. 

Our  farewells  to  those  whom  we  were  to  leave  behind  were  spoken 
in  the  glad  sunshine,  and  their  expressed  hopes  for  a  pleasant  jour- 
ney lent  a  significant  brightness  in  contrast  to  the  gloom  of  the 
early  morning.  With  handshaking  and  good  wishes  of  several  hun- 
dred friends,  the  leave-taking  scene  at  the  station  was  an  animated 
one.  There  was  but  one  touch  of  pathos — the  sorrow  of  Sir  Knight 
brothers  unable  to  accompany  us  on  the  pilgrimage.  While  lend- 
ing cheer  with  kindly  words,  their  anguish  was  plainly  discernible 
on  their  faces.  Bound  by  business  necessities,  or  detained  by  the 
call  of  duty,  they  were  compelled  to  remain  behind,  though  their 
hearts  yearned  for  the  companionship,  joys,  and  rich  pleasures  which 
the  journey  had  in  store,  and  the  boundless  interest  and  fellowship 
which  the  coming  Conclave  at  the  "Golden  Gate"  was  sure  to  bring 
forth. 

Those  countenances  which  looked  up  to  us  in  the  parting  "au 
revoir"  were  inscribed  with  expressions  that  bespoke  more  eloquently 
than  tongue  could  tell  the  sincere  sentiment  that  prevailed  in  the 
innermost  recesses  of  the  heart — and  how  those  dear  hearts  did  ache ! 

Our  party  numbered  between  sixty  and  seventy,  citizens  promi- 
nent in  the  affairs  of  the  community,  accompanied  by  their  ladies 


who  were  to  act  as  guardians  and  protectors  to  their  lords  and 
masters.  The  event  was  the  culmination  of  many  busy  weeks  of 
preparation  and  anticipation.  The  scene  presented  at  the  station 
that  morning  was  a  privilege  to  behold.  Every  condition  controlled 
by  God  and  man  seemed  to  enter  into  harmony  in  making  the  initial 
step  of  this  trans-continental  tour  an  auspicious  inauguration,  and 
the  transfiguration  of  what  promised  to  be  a  gloomy  and  uninvit- 
ing day  into  one  of  sunshine  and  gladness,  gave  evidence  of  the 
sanction  of  the  gods  of  the  elements  in  setting  forth  their  choicest 
raiment  under  which  we  might  receive  the  "bon  voyage"  of  our 
friends  and  brother  Sir  Knights  on  our  trip  of  10,000  miles  through 
the  wonderland  of  the  west,  where  the  creations  ot  the  Almighty 
can  be  realized  in  the  full  beauty  of  nature's  clothes — unenshrouded 
and  unblemished  by  the  hand  of  man  under  pretext  of  "public  im- 
provement." 

Thiough  the  bustle  and  activities  of  leave-taking  the  tourists 
were  looking  forward  to  the  new  and  magnificent  scenes  which  they 
were  to  behold,  new  acquaintances  to  be  made,  and  the  pleasure 
of  being  the  guests  of  San  Francisco,  and  attending  that  national 
reunion,  the  Twenty-ninth  Triennial  Conclave,  Grand  Encampment, 
Knights  Templar  of  the  United  States  of  America.  This  event  was 
set  for  September  3  to  September  9,  inclusive. 

While  often  California  is  chosen  as  the  land  to  which  invalids 
are  sent,  none  of  our  gallant  and  sturdy  band  were  in  search  of 
health,  as  the  most  casual  observer  could  note,  after  gazing  upon 
the  smiling  and  wholesome  faces  of  the  tourists. 

It  was  indeed,  a  party  qualified  to  participate  in  a  journey  replete 
with  good  cheer,  animated  with  the  spirit  of  brotherly  and  sisterly 
affection,  an  exemplification  of  genuine  Masonic  fraternity  in  all 
the  term  implies — 'the  fraternity  of  an  order  that  in  fact,  as  well  as 
in  name,  preserves  the  dignity  of  manhood,  age  after  age,  no  matter 
to  what  portion  of  the  globe  circumstances  may  carry  its  members. 

Suddenly  in  the  height  of  the  babel  of  exchanging  farewells, 
given  and  taken  for  perhaps  the  hundredth  time,  the  cold,  unsympa- 
thetic peal  of  the  engine  bell  rang  out  in  supreme  authority  above 
the  blending  voices.  With  each  succeeding  clang  the  order  "All-la- 
board,"  followed.  A  scatter  of  feet,  a  final  "bon  voyage,"  perhaps  a 
kiss  or  two,  a  swish  of  skirts,  and  with  a  flutter  of  snowy  handker- 
chiefs from  car  platforms  and  windows,  which  found  equal  exchange 
from  those  aground,  the  proud,  majestic  train  glided  gracefully  out 
of  the  station,  drawing  from  behind  a  prolonged  cheer  which  distance 
seemed  to  swell  into  greater  volume,  aided  by  the  resounding  echoes 
from  the  hillsides. 

Several  of  the  bravest  "must-stay-at-homes"  could  not  resist  the 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE  3 

opportunity,  and  had  climbed  aboard  before  the  final  signal  had  been 
given,  and  accompanied  us  for  a  few  hundred  miles.  In  far-off  Ohio 
towns  they  alighted  and  turned  their  faces  homeward,  after  having 
enjoyed  the  cordial  hospitalities  of  the  wayfarers  enroute.  Upon 
leaving  the  train  at  such  distant  points  as  they  dared  to  roam,  they 
shouted  their  adieus  after  the  parting  train  with  an  enthusiasm  that 
rent  the  air  and  blended  into  echoes  until  no  more  distinct,  though 
their  eyes  were  set  upon  the  fast  disappearing'  "special"  until  it 
gradually  faded  into  a  mere  nothingness  into  the  horizon. 

When  well  out  on  the  way  the  early  threat  of  rain  was  fulfilled. 
It  poured — but  without  the  least  tendency  to  dampen  the  ardor  of 
our  enthusiasm.  It  is  safe  to  say  that  but  few  members  of  the  party 
were  cognizant  of  the  fact  that  a  storm  was  raging — and  little  would 
they  have  cared.  Previous  to  this  hour  all  had  been  assigned  to 
their  respective  quarters,  which  to  each  was  to  be  a  "home"  for  six 
weeks  or  more.  The  sign  "welcome"  had  been  placed  above  every 
door,  and  it  was  not  the  only  sign  that  implied  hospitality  and  good- 
fellowship. 

We  had,  indeed,  become  one  big,  happy  family,  all  restrictions 
and  formalities  removed.  The  "stag"  coach,  or  bachelor's  apart- 
ments, had  at  once  become  the  headquarters  for  fun  and  frolic,  al- 
though the  other  coaches  also  resounded  with  merriment. 

"Faithful"  Johnstone,  a  big,  whole-souled  colored  man,  was  in 
charge  of  the  commissary  car,  and  soon  fell  in  with  the  spirit  of  the 
occasion.  His  color  did  not  even  lend  a  shadow,  and  he  was  "white" 
in  the  most  liberal  sense  of  the  expression.  Early  in  the  day  he 
delivered  his  ultimatum :  "Boo-oys — jes'  he'p  you'selves !  Yaa-s  sah ! 
Ha !  Ha !  Ha  — um !"  and  to  the  end  he  evinced  a  happy  and  ac- 
commodating spirit. 

The  larders  were  abundantly  stocked  with  the  best  the  market 
afforded,  including  the  best  brands  of  cigars,  most  of  which  were 
natives  of  the  banks  of  the  Rhine,  and  donated  by  one  of  our  worthy 
Sir  Knights,  who  established  an  enviable  reputation  for  smoothing 
out  the  rough  places,  and  who,  at  all  times,  displayed  an  invincible 
spirit  to  further  the  interests  of  his  fellowmen.  It  is  perhaps  need- 
less to  add  that  the  good  things  so  liberally  provided  were  partaken 
of  as  the  trip  progressed,  much  to  the  appreciation  of  the  outer  man 
and  the  satisfaction  and  contentment  of  the  inner. 

"Luncheon  redda'  in  the  dinin'  cah  P  was  an  oft-repeated  an- 
nouncement, although  it  seemed  a  superabundance  to  partake  of  this 
invitation,  considering  the  enticing  offerings  of  the  commissary  car, 
which  were  lavishly  and  gratuitously  offered.  Time  and  again, 
throughout  that  long  pilgrimage,  the  meals  served  in  that  self-same 
commissary  car  were  among  the  best  relished  in  the  memory  of 


4  A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

those  fortunate  enough  to  participate,  even  though  the  tops  of  trunks 
were  made  to  serve  as  tables,  and  liquids  had  to  be  passed  around 
with  the  rare  skill  of  an  accomplished  equilibrist. 

The  afternoon  of  the  first  day  established  a  precedent  for  joviality 
that  was  maintained  throughout  the  trip.  Utter  freedom  from  all 
care,  and  the  glad  anticipation  of  further  pleasures  to  come,  ruled 
supreme.  Time  passed  rapidly — too  rapidly — and  with  the  approach 
of  placid  evening  with  its  lengthening  shadows,  and  the  slow  and 
gradual  blotting  out  of  the  rural  landscapes,  spinning  rapidly  by, 
the  merry  travelers  found  no  abatement  in  their  merriment.  If  pos- 
sible, we  were  drawn  more  closely  together  in  the  bonds  of  human 
sympathy  and  fraternal  brotherhood  and  sisterhood  as  the  mantle 
of  darkness  was  more  tightly  gathered  about  us,  and  the  sun  had  gone 
to  its  rest  beyond  the  wide  reaches  of  the  prairie  land.  We  had 
seen  the  sun  wink  itself  to  sleep  behind  the  clouds  in  the  west, 
and  as  we  were  bound  in  that  direction — and  at  the  highest  possible 
speed — we  were  assured  that  we  would  again  catch  up  with  "Old 
Sol"  at  dawn  at  the  latest. 

Reaching  Chicago  at  ten  o'clock  that  night,  our  train  was  shifted 
over  to  the  tracks  of  the  Chicago  &  Northwestern  railroad  and  en- 
tered the  depot  of  that  system. 

It  was  a  happy  party  that  rolled  into  the  "Windy  City."  Few 
cared  to  venture  from  the  station,  nearly  all  being  well  acquainted 
with  Chicago,  having  visited  the  metropolis  of  the  inland  seas  pre- 
viously, and  besides,  the  time  to  stay  was  limited.  All  left  the 
train  for  a  stroll  on  the  platforms  and  finally  visited  the  station- 
proper.  Here  scores  of  Sir  Knights  were  met,  some  of  whom  claimed 
Chicago  as  their  home,  while  others  were  making  connections  with 
this  system,  with  the  same  mission  and  purpose  in  view  which  we 
cherished — the  pleasure  of  attending  the  Conclave  at  San  Francisco. 

While  these  brother  Sir  Knights  were  strangers  to  our  party, 
formal  introduction  was  not  even  considered,  and  in  a  moment  we 
were  acquainted,  one  with  the  other,  and  the  greetings  exchanged, 
and  the  goodfellowship  that  prevailed  for  those  few  moments  will 
ne'er  be  forgotten.  Here,  there  and  everywhere  about  the  spacious 
corridors  groups  were  gathered,  chatting  and  laughing.  Jests  were  ex- 
changed, stories  told,  and  acquaintanceships  cemented  into  friendship, 
with  mutual  satisfaction.  The  ladies  entered  into  the  spirit  of  the 
occasion  with  zest  and  joined  with  the  wives  and  daughters  of  the 
brother  Sir  Knights  who  but  a  moment  before  had  been  unknown 
to  us. 

To  the  ear  it  sounded  as  if  a  merry  band  of  pickaninnies  were 
taking  recess;  the  spirited  conversation  (and  it  was  far  above  the 
evenness  of  whisperings)  conveyed  the  impression  that  bold  revela- 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE     5 

tions  were  being  made  by  the  ladies,  which  at  home  might  have 
been  considered  bosom  secrets. 

Thus  was  expression  given  to  the  spirit  which  dominated  the 
hearts  of  those  but  briefly  acquainted,  which,  with  one  accord,  sym- 
bolized all  that  is  good,  best  and  most  wholesome  in  the  sisterhood 
and  brotherhood  of  mankind,  the  cornerstone  of  all  fraternalism, 
and  the  highest  pinnacle  of  civilization. 

Here  it  was  we  met  Mr.  C.  A.  Cairns,  General  Passenger  Agent, 
Mr.  S.  A.  Hutchison,  Manager  Tourist  Department,  Mr.  R.  B.  Wil- 
son, Ticket  Agent,  and  J.  O.  Clifford  of  the  Chicago  &  Northwestern 
system,  jovial,  genial,  affable  comrades.  They  manifested  a  special 
interest  in  the  welfare  of  our  party,  and  the  meeting  with  them  was  of 
the  most  pleasant  and  cordial  nature,  ending  with  an  affectionate  em- 
brace when  they  were  forced  to  say  "Good-bye."  We  were  intro- 
duced to  Mr.  V.  Z.  Bayard,  Tourist  Agent  for  the  company,  who, 
Mr.  Cairns  said,  would  act  as  guardian  for  our  party  as  far  as  Salt 
Lake  City.  He  assured  us  that  Mr.  Bayard  would  be  friendly  dis- 
posed, and  that  before  we  were  far  out  of  Chicago  we  would  be 
calling  him  "Vic." 

Indeed,  "Vic"  showed  his  cordiality  at  first  sight,  and  was  re- 
peatedly thereafter  voted  "the  right  man  in  the  right  place."  This 
gentleman  was  familiar  with  every  mile-post  along  the  many  miles 
of  road  we  traveled  with  him,  and  was  acquainted  with  every  in- 
cident connected  with  the  territory.  In  many  instances  he  went 
beyond  the  mere  discharge  of  his  duty  to  see  that  we  received  the 
best  of  care.  Need  it  be  said  that  we  all  soon  appreciated  and 
valued  his  presence  and  branded  him  a  real  good  fellow,  and  a 
hustler. 

Eleven  o'clock,  the  hour  for  our  departure,  was  at  hand.  At 
the  doors  of  the  station  cabs  with  belated  arrivals  were  whirling  up 
to  the  curb  unloading  their  charges,  the  carriage  wheels  and  the 
horses'  hoof-beats  clattering  musically  along  the  paved  streets. 
Richly  attired  ladies  and  children,  escorted  by  Sir  Knights,  descend- 
ed and  hurried  into  the  station.  All  was  now  a  bee-hive  of  anima- 
tion and  confusion ;  tickets  were  hastily  bought  and  baggage  checked ; 
a  call  on  the  Information  Bureau  inquiring  for  schedules ;  Sir  Knights 
who  had  not  the  important  task  of  hunting  their  wives  out  of  the 
crowds  were  busily  engaged  in  hand-shaking  and  offering  a  parting 
farewell  and  God-speed  to  members  of  our  party  and  to  one  another. 

The  gong  sounded.  All  passed  into  the  enclosure  where  several 
long  trains  were  in  waiting,  notably  the  cheerful  inviting  "Allegheny 
Special.'5  The  powerful  nervous  engine  ahead  was  impatiently  puff- 
ing, anxious  to  begin  its  relay  contest  with  the  prairie  winds. 

"All-la-board!"     shouted    Mr.    J.    A.    Woods,    the    genial    Pull- 


6  A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

man  conductor,  smilingly.  He  called  again  and  again,  before  he 
had  his  big  family  assembled  under  roof.  The  luxurious  train  was 
most  inviting — so  cheerful,  so  full  of  light  and  color.  It  was  to  serve 
as  a  home  on  wheels  for  many  days  en  route  to  "sunland." 

As  the  train  pulled  out  of  the  station  many  of  the  "older  folks" 
withdrew  into  their  "homes"  and  retired  for  the  night,  while  some 
of  the  Sir  Knights  stole  a  march  as  soon  as  their  "better-halves" 
were  fast  asleep  and  joined  the  occupants  of  the  "stag"  coach  in 
making  a  concerted  march  upon  the  commissary  car.  Here  we 
gathered  together  for  the  quiet  communion  of  kindred  souls. 

The  "special"  quietly  drew  out  of  the  city  limits  and  was  soon 
whirling  away  toward  the  Upper  Mississippi  and  the  broad  State 
of  Iowa,  carrying  as  happy  a  party  of  pilgrims  as  ever  left  Allegheny 
City  for  the  west.  A  glimpse  from  the  windows,  or  an  unobstructed 
view  from  the  side  doors  of  the  commissary  car,  presented  a  grand 
kaleidoscopic,  retrospective  view  of  the  illuminated  metropolis  of 
Chicago,  like  a  moving  panorama,  fast  disappearing  from  our  sight. 

The  route  was  now  due  west  in  a  direct  line  through  a  chain 
of  beautiful  towns  to  Geneva,  35  miles  out  of  Chicago,  and  the  west- 
ern boundary  line  of  its  suburban  district.  Then  across  northern 
Illinois  to  the  Mississippi  River.  The  first  stop  was  made  at  DeKalb, 
58  miles  west  of  Chicago.  The  train  scarcely  came  to  a  stop  until 
we  again  flew  onward  amid  total  darkness,  broken  only  by  the 
occasional  glare  from  the  fire-box  of  the  engine  reflecting  its  rays 
upon  the  glittering  tracks  on  each  side. 

The  engineer  calls  for  more  steam.  The  scrape,  scrape,  scrape 
of  the  fireman's  shovel  resounds  through  the  stilly  night.  Each 
shovel  of  coal  as  it  was  hurled  into  the  bowels  of  the  furnace  was 
clearly  heard  in  the  commissary  car.  We  raced  onward  faster,  and 
still  faster  through  the  mantle  of  darkness  and  in  a  short  time  Dixon 
was  reached,  98  miles  west  of  Chicago.  The  town  is  near  Rock 
River,  in  a  region  somewhat  famous  in  Indian  history.  Scores  of 
Indian  mounds  still  remain  and  now  serve  as  the  sole  monuments 
to  commemorate  the  red  man.  Yes,  it  was  now  two  o'clock,  Sun- 
day morning,  rather  late  for  sight-seeing,  and  the  greater  portion  of 
the  party  were  asleep  and  dreaming  of  further  pleasures  to  be  real- 
ized. Johnstone  rubbed  his  eyes,  rested  his  huge  and  weary  frame 
against  the  substantial  refrigerator  and  remained  awake  no  longer. 

Within  another  brief  hour  we  crossed  the  Mississippi  River  be- 
tween Fulton,  Illinois,  and  Clinton,  Iowa,  but  owing  to  the  late, 
or  more  accurately,  the  early  hour,  this  event  was  not  witnessed 
by  many.  The  few  who  were  "up  and  doing"  began  to  rub  their 
e>es  and  after  remarking  that  the  events  of  the  day  had  not  fatigued 
them  in  the  least,  voluntarily  agreed  to  join  their  comrades  in 


C.   &  N-ff.  Ry. 


THE    FOX    RIVER    AT    GENEVA. 


The  view  up  and  down  Fox  River  Valley,  just  before  entering  Geneva,  is  one  in  which  rolling  uplands,  fertile  and  highly  cultivated,  form  the 
background,  while,  nearer  at  hand,  the  city  nestles  among  the  trees  in  quiet  contrast  to  the  sparkling  waters  of  the  river. 


PANORAMIC     VIEW 
OF    DIXON. 


ROCK    RIVER    NEAR    STERLING. 


The  Pictureique  C.  &  N-ff.  Rf. 


The  valley  of  the  Rock  River  was  the  scene  of  many  stirring  events  in  the  early  days  of  territorial  history  ;  the 
beautiful  region  hereabouts  was  one  of  the  favorite  hunting  grounds  of  the  Indians,  and  what  are  supposed  to  be  Indian 
mounds  still  exist  near  Sterling.  Many  events  in  the  Black  Hawk  war  transpired  in  this  region. 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE  7 

sweet  slumbers  over  the  Chicago  &  Northwestern  to  "dreamland." 
Silently  they  crept  into  their  respective  couches  and  all  was  good- 
night. 

Henceforth  no  member  of  the  jolly  party  was  conscious  of  what 
transpired  during  the  ensuing  few  hours,  for  all  were  enjoying  a 
well-earned  and  deserving  rest,  as  the  God  of  providence  carried 
them  onward.  Thus  the  chapter  of  events  of  the  first  day  was  re- 
corded, full  of  good  cheer  and  sweet  reminiscences,  now  passed 
and  gone,  but  ever  in  memory — never  to  be  forgotten. 


CHAPTER  II. 

T  the  break  of  dawn,  as  though  some  celestial  fairy  had  passed 
her  wand  over  our  brows,  we  awoke  from  sweet  repose,  and 
at  once  became  aware,  and  forcibly  impressed  with  the  fact, 
that  there  was  an  "Alarm  Clock"  aboard. 

This  masterpiece  of  creation,  or  intricacy  of  musical  mechanism, 
was  in  the  human  form  of  Sir  Joseph  J.  Gilchrist,  the  "Honorable," 
from  the  "State  of  Allegheny  " — marching  up  and  down  the  aisle  of 
the  "stag"  coach — shouting  at  the  top  of  his  voice:  "Get  up,  boys! 
Get  up  and  see  the  sun  rise!"  Many  of  the  boys  thrust  their  heads 
between  the  curtains,  which  lent  privacy  to  their  berths,  to  ascer- 
tain what  particular  specie  of  creature  had  been  encountered  on  the 
western  plains. 

They  beheld  "Joe,"  wearing  that  ever-present  and  never-failing 
congenial  smile,  so  cheerful  and  inviting  that  any  incentive  toward 
censure  is  driven  away,  no  matter  how  serious  the  offense  may  be. 
"Hurry,  hurry,  hurry,  boys,  and  see  the  sun  rise!"  he  again  com- 
mands. "Ah,  we  don't  want  to  see  any  sun  rise !"  was  the  verdict 
in  chorus.  This  announcement,  followed  by  a  little  brotherly  ad- 
vice, appeared  to  have  the  desired  effect  and  "Joe"  humbly  retired 
to  his  seat.  Back  go  all  heads  behind  the  folds  of  each  respective 
curtain,  with  every  assurance  that  quietude  would  again  prevail. 

The  silence,  however,  was  not  destined  to  be  long-lived,  for  in  a 
moment  "Joe"  made  his  second  appearance,  this  time  armed  with 
every  instrument  of  torture  in  the  catalogue  of  unmusical  and  hid- 
eous things.  "If  they  won't  get  up,  I'll  make  them !"  he  insisted.  The 
racket  was  awful.  Those  not  awakened  at  the  first  call  surely  be- 
lieved themselves  victims  of  an  Indian  raid,  accompanied  by  all  the 
horrors  of  the  war  dance.  "Joe"  succeeded  brilliantly  in  forcing 
an  audience  to  the  rise  of  the  sun,  and  upon  each  subsequent  morn- 


8  A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

ing  during  the  entire  tour  the  "Alarm  Clock"  was  in  working  order 
and  all  viewed  the  sun  rise  every  day,  thanks  to  "Joe's"  undeniable 
request. 

With  such  a  startling  initiative  all  were  early  risers  that  Sabbath 
morning.  Exchanged  inquiries  as  to  individual  conditions  brought 
the  uniform  response:  "Bully,  never  felt  better."  However,  an 
epidemic  of  hunger  prevailed  in  its  keenest  ravage,  and  relief  was 
at  once  offered  by  a  few  raps  on  the  door  of  the  commissary  car. 
This  served  to  awaken  Johnstone,  who,  ever  ready,  catered  to  the 
inner  feelings  of  those  dependent  upon  him. 

With  contentment  within,  all  returned  to  the  vestibule  car  and 
took  an  unprejudiced  look  at  one  another.  Never  did  there  ap- 
pear to  be  more  gladness  in  the  air.  The  spirit  of  charity  and  com- 
panionship that  was  ushered  in  with  the  morning  was  boundless. 

The  rain  of  the  day  before  made  the  air  cool  and  refreshing,  as 
well  as  allaying  the  dust.  Traveling  was  most  delightful — such 
brightness  in  the  sun — such  beauteous  prairie  country.  We  passed 
numerous  towns  and  villages  and  found  interest  in  the  moving  about 
of  the  inhabitants.  Cedar  Rapids  was  reached  shortly  before  six 
o'clock.  This  typical  Iowa  city  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  Cedar 
River.  Its  buildings,  streets  and  cleanliness  pay  high  tribute  to  the 
character  of  the  people  who  inhabit  it.  The  city  gives  evidence  of 
a  thriving  industrial  center,  as  well  as  a  community  of  refinement 
and  culture. 

Journeying  from  Cedar  Rapids  we  passed  Belle  Plain  and  Tama. 
At  Tama  we  beheld  Indians  for  the  first  time  on  our  pilgrimage  and 
immediately  cameras  were  focused  upon  them.  The  red  men  se- 
riously objected  at  first,  not  because  they  had  not  been  educated  to 
the  harmless  effects  of  this  weapon,  but  because  they  demanded 
recompense  before  posing. 

Sir  Reese  would  not  be  convinced  that  the  Indians  were  other 
than  cheap  imitations  and  attempted  to  strengthen  his  position  in 
the  matter  by  citing  as  a  comparison  the  crimson  complexion  as 
portrayed  by  the  Allegheny  City  street  salesmen  of  cigar  stores.  He 
was  finally  convinced  of  his  error  b}'  Sir  Robert  making  the  point 
that  the  Tama  Indians  were  not  well  read  men. 

This  town  boasts  of  an  Indian  reservation  where  a  remnant  of 
the  Sacs  and  Foxes  still  find  a  home.  The  community  derives  its 
name  from  a  once  famous  Sac  chief,  Ta-E-Maih. 

At  this  hour  breakfast  was  enjoyed  in  the  dining  car,  after 
which  we  were  reminded  that  it  was  Sunday  and  that  the  day  should 
be  fittingly  observed.  Suggestions  were  immediately  made  that  ser- 
vices be  held,  but  the  fact  at  once  became  apparent  that  none  had 
the  foresight  to  bring  with  them  that  which  is  most  important  and 
essential  for  such  ceremony. 


THE   .IOWA    RIVER    NEAR    TAMA 


ON    THE    INDIAN     RESERVATION    AT    TAMA 


The  Picturesque  C.  &  N-W.  Ry. 

BRIDGE    AT    CLINTON. 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE  9 

"Oh !"  cried  one  of  the  Sir  Knights  with  boundless  joy,  "Eureka ! 
I  have  found  it!  McFarland  has  brought  a  bible  with  him!"  The 
announcement  of  this  discovery  brought  the  unanimous  expression 
that  Sir  McFarland  should  officiate. 

Sir  McFarland,  being  the  youngest  Sir  Knight  in  the  party,  had 
previously  been  dubbed  "The  Kid  of  York."  He  has  an  established 
reputation  for  overburdened  generosity  and  is  always  willing  to 
respond  to  the  call  of  duty  for  the  good  of  any  cause.  However, 
notwithstanding  his  infallible  willingness,  there  was  a  decided  hitch 
in  the  announced  program.  Several  of  the  older  heads  were  in  con- 
sultation. The  would-be  communicants  became  anxious.  Evidently 
a  disagreement  existed  as  to  whether  or  not  McFarland  should  of- 
ficiate. Suddenly  the  diplomats  separated  and  one  of  the  Sir  Knights 
arose  and  made  the  following  startling  statement:  "I  am  informed 
that  our  worthy  Sir  Knight  has  not  only  brought  a  bible  with  him 
but  a  gun  as  well,  consequently  I  deem  it  extremely  unwise  for  this 
assemblage  to  consent  in  having  him  administer  the  gospel.  Just 
picture  the  'Kid,' "  he  continued,  with  a  smile,  "with  a  bible  in  one 
hand  and  a  gun  in  his  hip  pocket.  It  is  dangerous,"  he  exclaimed 
dramatically,  "such  preparation  and  equipment  might  have  been 
necessary  in  these  parts  in  the  days  of  'Kit  Carson,'  but  times 
and  things  have  changed;  and  furthermore,  this  is  not  the  time  and 
place." 

The  general  sentiment  seemed  to  be  that  the  pilgrims  did  not 
take  kindly  towards  having  religion  administered  with  the  aid  of  a 
revolver.  McFarland  tried  to  explain  that  the  gun  referred  to  was 
nothing  but  an  innocent  and  inoffensive  bazoo — one  of  the  tin  horns 
which  Sir  Edward  J.  Burry  had  brought  with  him.  However,  there 
was  no  service  that  day,  and  it  is  said  that  the  good-natured  "Kid" 
did  not  use  the  bible  during  the  entire  trip,  unless  it  was  in  the 
seclusion  of  his  private  sanctum  sanctorum. 

Luncheon  was  served  about  the  time  we  reached  Dennison,  424 
miles  west  of  Chicago  and  about  68  miles  east  of  Omaha.  The  train 
entered  the  Boyer  Valley  along  which  lays  the  route  into  the  Mis- 
souri Valley.  Here  the  broad  lowlands  of  the  Missouri  come  into 
sight  on  the  right,  and  the  road  skirts  the  Missouri  bluffs  on  the 
left  for  20  miles,  until  Council  Bluffs  is  reached.  At  this  point 
we  crossed  the  river  and  entered  Omaha  at  3 :45  o'clock  in  the 
afternoon,  entering  the  city  over  a  great  steel  bridge  which  spans 
the  river  between  the  two  cities  and  the  two  states. 

Council  Bluffs  itself  has  a  population  of  26,000,  while  within  a 
radius  of  six  miles  around  the  beautiful  Union  Station  in  Omaha 
is  an  estimated  population  of  165,000.  Council  Bluffs  is  the  older 
of  the  two  cities,  Omaha  (named  after  the  Omaha  Indians)  da- 


10  A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

ting  her  history  as  a  town  from  1854,  when,  upon  passage  of  the 
Kansas-Nebraska  bill,  the  latter  state  was  thrown  open  for  settle- 
ment. 

Omaha  is  the  metropolis  of  this  section  of  the  West  and  is  a 
jobbing  and  distributing  point  of  much  importance  and  is  rapidly 
growing  as  a  manufacturing  center.  The  city  abounds  in  all  the 
luxuries  and  conveniences  of  a  modern  city. 

Our  party  remained  in  Omaha  35  minutes  until  connections  were 
made  with  the  Union  Pacific  Railroad.  During  this  brief  stay  we 
were  most  hospitably  entertained  by  the  Sir  Knights  and  citizens 
of  that  city,  among  whom  were  such  honorable  gentlemen  as  Mr.  E. 
L.  Lomax,  General  Passenger  Agent  Union  Pacific  Railroad  Com- 
pany, Mr.  G.  B.  Bondesson  and  friends  and  Mr.  L.  Beindorff,  who, 
for  those  brief  moments,  entertained  us  in  the  manner  for  which 
this  "Magic  City"  is  noted. 

The  following  morning  the  "Omaha  Bee"  published  a  column 
article  regarding  our  arrival.  A  reproduction,  in  part,  follows: 

PITTSBHRG  'PARTY  GOES  WEST 

Knigfcts    Templar     and     Families    Pass 
Through  to  San  Francisco. 

RELISH  THE    PURE   AIR   OF    NEBRASKA 

Easterners    Are    Smitten    vritli    Hospi- 
tality   of   West    and    Cannot    Get 
Too. Much  of  its  FresU 

0BO'KC.< 

The  liveliest  delegation  of  Knight?  Tfem- 
Ular  to  pass  .through  Omaha,  for  San 
Francisco  to  attend  their  conclave  since 
the  procession  started .  was  the  Allegheny 
commandery,  No.  36.  It  came  In  over  ti*e 
Northwestern  from  Chicago  at  3:40  yester- 
day afternoon  And  left  at  4:15  for  Denver 
over  the  Union  Pacific. 

The  party  numbered  about  eighty  men 
and  women,  and  every  man  fend  yvomap 
was  loaded  down  with  literature  and  cards 
showing  what,  a  particular  good  brand  of 
Knights  Templar  iHttsburg  ^urns  out,  tor 
they  were  all  from  the  Smoky  City.  Every 
person  who  visited  their  special  train  was 
welcomed  with  a  hospitality  equal  to  that 
of  the  west  To  -the  Omaha  visitors  at  tne 
station,  the  'tourists  created  considerable 
amusement  as  they  alighted  from  the 
train.  Each  and  every  one  of  them  drew 
a  .deep,  long  breath  and  Jtept  onj  Indatlnsr 
their  lungs  with  ptaro  Nebraska  air.  ',' 

th«  '.rain    were 


CROSSING    THE 
"HAWKEYE"    STATE 


turtiquc  C.  &  N-lf.  «/. 

i"  CROSSING    THE    GREAT    PRAIRIES    OF    IOWA. 


THE    MISSOURI     RIVER    VALLEY. 


C.  Gf  N-lf.  Rv. 


That  portion  of  the  trip  which  extends  from  Missouri  Valley  to  Council  Bluffs  skirts  the  eastern  bluffs  of  the 
Missouri  through  one  of  the  greatest  corn-producing  regions  in  existence.     The  fertile  loam  of  the  Missouri  River 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE  11 

As  we  left  Omaha  over  the  admirably  equipped  line  of  the  Union 
Pacific  railroad,  we  at  once  entered  the  valley  of  the  Platte  and 
followed  that  broad  and  shallow  stream  to  its  forks  at  North  Platte. 
We  had  traveled  but  a  short  distance  when  our  train  came  to  a 
standstill  at  Millard,  20  miles  out  of  Omaha.  We  were  informed 
that  there  was  a  freight  wreck  ahead  and  there  were  probabilities 
of  a  delay  of  several  hours.  The  "probabilities"  proved  true  to  the 
letter  and  we  remained  in  that  village  three  hours. 

The  pilgrims  soon  learned  to  adapt  themselves  to  the  conditions, 
and  life  became  a  systematic  search  for  diversity.  Time  did  not  hang 
heavy  on  our  hands  by  any  manner  of  means.  Most  of  the  party 
left  the  train  and  were  soon  amused  in  various  pastimes,  a  few  of 
which  might  be  enumerated  as  follows: 

Game  of  baseball — non-professional  rules — several  lady  partici- 
pants. This  ended  dramatically.  Sir  William  A.  Seiling  hit  the  ball 
for  what  looked  like  a  home  run.  It  landed  on  the  bell  of  the  loco- 
motive and  the  game  was  called — many  rushing  for  the  train. 

Foot-race  down  the  railroad  track  and  a  demonstration  in  equilib- 
rium— ladies  only.  The  deftness  in  balancing,  as  shown  from  the 
lofty  height  of  a  steel  rail  was  thrilling. 

Concert  by  the  brass  band — Sir  Oscar  Schulze  director.  Oscar 
rolled  up  his  sleeves  and  ordered  the  band  to  play  every  tune  on  record 
(both  gold-moulded  and  Edison)  ;  also  some  tunes  that  have  not  as 
yet  been  placed  on  record. 

Dancing  to  the  music  of  the  band.  Set  of  two — Sir  Oscar  and 
Sir  Harry  W. — no  callers.  Charmed  by  the  sweet  strains,  and  in- 
different as  to  time  or  place,  and  particularly  innocent  of  the  fact 
that  there  was  a  spectator  or  two,  they  essayed  a  Virginia  reel  on 
the  Nebraska  green  sward.  There  was  more  real  reel  about  this 
tripping  of  the  light  fantastic  than  the  spectators  had  ever  previous- 
ly seen.  The  dance  lasted  but  a  few  moments,  or  until  a  can  of 
lemonade  perched  on  a  soap  box  had  been  turned  over.  Although 
the  natives  informed  us  that  things  as  sour  as  lemonade  turn,  in  that 
climate,  from  slighter  provocation,  it  was  nevertheless  conceded 
that  one  of  the  dancers  upset  the  lemonade. 

Probably  one  of  the  most  impressive  entertainments  indulged  in 
at  Millard  was  the  presentation  of  a  drama,  depicting  larceny  on  the 
western  plains,  entitled  "Taking  Things  from  Dumb  Animals,"  in 
which  Sir  Robert  J.  Bovard  essayed  the  star  role,  assisted  by  a  Jersey 
cow.  The  cow  in  question  was  peacefully  browsing  on  the  meadow 
land  when  the  drama  opened.  Sir  "Bobby"  and  the  cow  exchanged 
glances  at  the  same  moment,  and  while  the  latter  gave  no  expression 
of  affection,  "Bobby"  at  once  acknowledged  a  thirst  for  milk.  With- 
out any  formal  introduction  "Bobby"  made  his  advances  and  was 


12  A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

soon  milking  the  cow.  Several  followed,  while  the  cow  continued  to 
chew  her  cud  in  silence.  Finally,  when  she  found  herself  the  con- 
centrated object  of  too  general  attention,  she  hurried  away,  swing- 
ing her  tail  in  triumph.  The  owner  of  that  cow  still  remains  among 
the  unidentified,  but  it  is  reasonable  to  suppose  that  he  and  the 
cow  had  words  that  night  over  the  quality  and  quantity  of  milk  at 
hand. 

For  Millard  and  its  300  inhabitants  it  was  a  gala  day  of  strange 
experiences  and  unrestricted  joy  that  did  not  even  find  a  parallel  on 
the  annual  circus  day. 

Shortly  after  seven  o'clock  the  wreckage  had  been  cleared  away 
and  we  started.  We  stopped  again  a  hundred  yards  away  to  take 
aboard  a  few  ladies  who  were  threatened  with  isolation  on  the  plains, 
having  strayed  off  out  of  hearing  of  the  call  "all  aboard!" 

Once  on  the  way  the  engineer  began  clipping  off  the  miles  at 
a  rapid  rate  in  an  endeavor  to  regain  every  possible  moment  before 
reaching  Denver  on  the  morrow.  Many  methods  were  employed  to 
keep  the  party  amused.  Our  music  consisted  of  the  well-mixed 
strains  of  a  grind-organ  and  a  bag-pipe  which  were  a  little  asthmatic, 
and  inclined  to  catch  their  breath  where  they  ought  to  come  out 
strong;  a  clarinet  and  a  bass  drum,  which  were  a  little  unreliable 
on  the  high  notes  and  rather  melancholy  on  the  low;  a  disreputable 
accordion  that  had  a  leak  somewhere  and  breathed  louder  than  it 
squawked ;  Burry's  bazoo  jew's-harp,  etc.,  through  which  the  "Ter» 
rible  quartette  sang(?) — the  singing  was  voted  worse  than  the  in- 
strumental renditions,  although  we  all  enjoyed  it  hugely,  and  suffered 
it  gladly. 

About  the  time  the  music  was  losing  its  charm  "Vic"  hurriedly 
requested  us  to  be  on  the  lookout  and  he  would  show  us  where  we 
would  eventually  arrive.  By  a  peculiar  coincidence  the  next  thing 
that  presented  itself  was  a  graveyard.  "Vic,"  however,  was  innocent 
of  perpetrating  a  pun  on  us.  He  referred  to  the  town  of  Columbus, 
Nebraska,  which  we  reached  a  few  minutes  later.  This  was  the 
place  which  in  the  '60's  George  Francis  Train  declared  to  be  the 
geographical  center  of  the  United  States,  and  for  that  reason  advo- 
cated the  removal  of  the  National  Capital  to  the  Valley  of  the  Platte. 
Here  our  train  entered  upon  a  stretch  of  track,  which,  for  40  or 
more  miles  in  length,  is  as  straight  as  it  is  possible  for  man  to  build. 
The  telegraph  poles  on  both  sides  (looking  backward),  presented 
the  appearance  of  two  solid  walls  of  timber  surmounted  by  endless 
lines  of  wire.  The  railroad  tracks  between  narrowed  into  a  shin- 
ing streak  in  the  background. 

The  entire  state  of  Nebraska  proved  to  be  a  marvelously  rich 
farming  country.  Hundreds  of  fields  of  corn  and  wheat,  and  pass- 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE  13 

ture  dotted  with  fat  cattle,  were  viewed.  Up  to  1866  buffalo  were 
numerous  in  this  section  and  all  of  the  region  lends  the  basis  of 
thrilling  tales  of  Indian  days.  As  late  as  1897  the  Indians  captured 
and  burned  a  train  of  cars  near  Lexington.  All  the  savagery  has 
been  wiped  out  recently  and  the  tale  of  the  frontier  remains  an  un- 
sung lyric  to  battle  and  continuous  endeavor  for  civilization  that 
has  rarely  been  equalled  in  deeds  of  valor  and  courage. 

We  arrived  in  North  Platte  early  in  the  morning.  Here  central 
standard  time,  used  thus  far,  is  changed  to  the  mountain  standard,  one 
hour  slower  than  central  (or  two  hours  slower  than  Pittsburgh).  Not 
a  member  of  our  party  was  awake  to  adjust  his  watch,  every  soul 
had  drifted  drowsily  but  happily  away  into  the  vast  mysterious 
void  which  men  call  sleep. 


CHAPTER  III. 


ONDAY  morning  the  "Alarm  Clock"  opened  a  relentless  bom- 
bardment.    He  stalked  abroad  with  his  customary  invitation 
to  view  the  rise  of  the  sun,  and  there  was  no  chance  to  evade 
the  request.     All  arose  fresh  from  a  good  night's    sleep,    and 
the  cool  invigorating  prairie  air  was  refreshing. 

At  a  mass  meeting  held  in  the  "stag"  coach  a  program  for  the 
day  was  arranged,  and  was  so  brimful  of  diversity  that  the  program 
could  not  possibly  stand  a  border  if  presented  in  printed  form.  The 
mass  meeting  was  open  to  all  comers — everyone  had  a  right,  and 
was  expected  to  make  a  suggestion.  In  consequence  everyone  was 
talking  and  listening  at  the  same  time,  and  many  pearls  of  the  King's 
anVl  Queen's  English  fought  for  supremacy  with  the  prairie  winds. 

Even  at  this  early  hour,  without  breakfast  to  sustain  us  under 
the  ordeal,  the  consumptive  accordion  was  given  voice  in  the  dis- 
cussion. The  proud  musician,  with  the  bandbox  on  his  left  knee, 
was  swaying  his  head  to  and  fro,  whistling  much  of  the  accompani- 
ment which  the  accordion  refused  to  render,  even  under  pressure. 

Biff!  Bang!  With  the  velocity  of  a  shooting  star  a  very  ripe 
cantaloupe  alighted  on  the  veteran  music  box.  There  was  an  at- 
mospheric phenomenon,  and  like  a  bursting  constellation,  scattered  its 
component  elements  in  every  direction.  The  instrument  fell  to  the 
floor  in  humiliation  while  the  erstwhile  star  performer  arose  with 
every  indication  of  injured  pride.  All  the  members  of  the  audience 
had  observed  the  fruit  pass  through  space,  although  the  musician  had 
no  knowledge  that  he  was  the  attracting  force  of  a  flying  sphere 


14  A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

until  the  contact  took  place.  He  figured  with  astronomical  skill  that 
the  planet  had  come  from  a  northwesterly  direction,  about  72  de- 
grees south.  Of  course  the  moment  the  planet  struck  all  disturb- 
ing elements  in  the  air  were  removed. 

But  as  Leininger,  the  once  proud  but  now  much  offended  musi- 
cian arose,  he  tenderly  placed  the  accordion  on  the  radiator  to  dry 
out  and  turning  suddenly  upon  his  audience  dramatically  exclaimed: 
"I  bet  one  doll-ar  I  know  what  threw  that  bunch  of  bananas!  It 
komes  frum  dat  latitude,"  pointing  his  index  finger  with  unerring 
aim  in  the  direction  of  Sir  Edward  Kunberger.  "It  was  'Kunnie.' 
'Kunnie' — he  is  jealous  because  I  will  make  a  speech  to-day.  He 
accuses  me  of  possessing  a  gift  of  silvery  language!" 

"Kunnie,"  unable  to  shield  his  guilt  any  longer,  entered  a  counter 
complaint,  and  publicly  denounced  Leininger  as  being  the  "man  who 
ate  the  soap."  The  accusation  was  voted  of  grave  importance,  and 
it  was  agreed  to  try  both  of  the  accused  at  the  same  time.  Sir  H. 
Glen  Sample  was  unanimously  elected  counsel  for  both  parties  con- 
cerned. The  "Rowdy  Bunch"  were  chosen  as  jurymen  and  counselor 
Sample  presented  both  cases  and  both  defenses  with  due  formality 
and  grave  concern.  He  maintained,  however,  that  no  charge  could 
be  made  for  the  cantaloupe,  as  it  had  been  thrown  in.  Before  the 
case  had  been  concluded  the  foreman  of  the  jury  announced  that 
a  verdict  had  been  reached,  whereupon  the  jurymen,  as  if  with  one 
voice,  sang  their  verdict  in  the  following  verse: 

"It  may  be  so  for  all  we  know, 
It  sounds  to  us  like  a  lie — " 

"First  call  for  breakfast,"  cried  the  porter  at  this  point,  and  the  jury- 
men, leaping  from  their  seats  of  judgment,  made  a  "center  rush" 
for  the  dining  car. 

From  our  seats  at  the  table,  we  observed  an  impressive  panorama 
unfolding  itself  over  the  prairie  land.  The  sun  was  slowly  rising 
and  threw  a  warm  glow  over  the  landscape,  suffusing  the  picture 
with  a  world  of  coloring. 

Hot  fried  chicken,  mutton  chops,  omelets,  fried  potatoes,  coffee 
and  many  other  excellent  and  palatable  offerings  comprised  the  bill- 
of-fare.  We  ate  while  passing  through  Sutherland  and  Paxton,  two 
rural  towns,  and  left  the  breakfast  table  about  the  time  Ogallala  was 
reached.  This  town  derives  its  name  from  the  Brule  Sioux,  a  band 
of  Indians  of  which  "Spotted  Tail"  was  the  chief.  This  was  the 
most  powerful  of  Indian  tribes  in  latter  day  history,  numbering  at 
one  time  nearly  10,000  warriors.  A  few  miles  north  of  Ogallala,  is 
Ash  Hollow,  a  noted  Indian  camping  ground,  and  the  scene  of  a 
great  victory  over  them  by  General  Harney  in  1859. 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE  15 

Nebraska  was  rapidly  sinking  away  in  the  rear.  We  had  seen 
no  land  fade  away  from/  view  with  more  regret.  Her  prairie  was 
so  unsurpassingly  lovely,  clad  in  living  green,  ribbed  with  rich  vege- 
tation, spotted  with  fattened  cattle,  and  flecked  with  white  cottages. 
Here  and  there,  the  lands  were  riven  by  deep  canals  built  by  the 
untiring  toil  of  the  early  settlers,  and  the  sparkling  waters  that 
coursed  these  artificial  channels,  quenched  the  thirst  of  a  thousand 
miles  of  cultivation.  The  superb  picture  was  fittingly  crowned  with 
the  harvest  of  towering  wheat  and  hay  stacks,  the  fruits  o£  trie  earth, 
and  the  brawn  creators  for  man  and  beast.  No  longer  is  this  the 
land  of  treachery,  which  the  teachings  of  our  school-boy  days  led 
us  to  believe.  The  blood  of  Nebraska's  forefathers  has  made  pos- 
sible the  achievements  of  to-day.  Fair  Nebraska,  with  its  still  youth- 
ful but  eventful  history,  has  made  gigantic — yea,  marvelous — strides 
to  possess  and  maintain  "Peace  on  earth,  good-will  toward  men." 
That  it  has  succeeded  in  rearing  the  fruits  of  its  choice  is  shown  on 
every  hand.  The  pioneer  road  over  which  we  traveled  this  day  had 
cost  many  hundreds  of  lives  to  construct.  There  were  constant,  al- 
most daily  battles  with  the  desperadoes  and  red  men  before  it  was 
completed. 

Arriving  at  Julesburg,  we  found  ourselves  in  Colorado.  This 
station  is  the  diverging  point  for  Denver,  197  miles  south.  We 
stopped  here  for  a  short  time.  The  town  at  first  glance  offered 
little  interest  to  the  traveler,  but  when  a  brief  hint  was  given  of  its 
legends,  the  listener  gave  undivided  attention. 

In  1865,  the  Overland  Stage  Company  had  an  important  station 
at  Julesburg,  at  which  point  large  supplies  were  accumulated  and 
stored.  Troops  were  scattered  all  along  the  routes,  and  were  fre- 
quently compelled  to  escort  the  stages  from  station  to  station  be- 
cause of  the  hostile  red  men.  Many  conflicts  were  waged  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  Julesburg.  On  January  7,  1875,  the  Sioux  and  Cheyennes, 
numbering  over  1,000,  attacked  Fort  Sedgwick,  then  occupied  by 
a  force  of  about  50  men.  The  attack  was  repulsed,  but  not  without 
severe  loss.  On  February  2,  1875,  they  attacked  and  burned  the 
station  of  the  stage  company  at  Julesburg.  Many  similar  incidents  in 
frontier  history  mark  the  history  of  the  town.  It  takes  its  name 
from  Jules  Bernard,  an  old  French-Canadian,  who  was  famous  in 
eastern  Colorado  and  southern  Nebraska  in  the  days  of  the  emi- 
grant wagon  trains. 

Our  journey  since  leaving  the  level  lands  of  Iowa  was  along  the 
natural  grades  formed  by  the  water  courses  and  consequently  thus 
far  our  travel  was  free  from  heavy  grades.  The  country  we  en- 
tered upon  leaving  Julesburg  was  occupied  almost  exclusively  by 
stock  raisers,  their  ranch  houses  being  situated  on  both  sides  of 


16  A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

the  river.  Some  have  large  tracts  of  land  enclosed  for  winter  ranges 
and  enjoy  sidings  for  shipping  stock.  The  greater  number,  how- 
ever, depend  entirely  upon  the  public  range,  both  winter  and  sum- 
mer. 

Skirting  the  river,  the  first  station  of  importance  reached  was 
Sterling,  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  large  and  rich  tract  of  bottom 
land  on  the  Platte  River.  Our  train  stopped  for  20  minutes,  and 
in  accord  with  usual  custom,  the  members  of  our  party  stepped  down 
upon  terra  firma  and  devoted  themselves  in  taking  snap  shots  at 
everything,  whether  usual  or  unusual. 

The  most  attracting  incident  at  Sterling  was  the  sight  of  a  cow- 
boy, in  true  western  regalia,  galloping  across  the  plain,  and  bearing 
down  toward  the  train.  As  he  halted,  the  greater  portion  of  our 
party  advanced  for  an  interview.  The  conversation  naturally  led  to 
a  discussion  of  his  horse.  We  noticed  that  the -winning  quality  of 
the  animial's  nature  was  his  great  friendliness  toward  his  master. 
He  was  continually  sniffing  at  the  clothing  of  his  master  and  thrust- 
ing his  head  under  the  cowboy's  elbow  begging  to  have  his  forehead 
rubbed.  The  noble  animal  gave  every  evidence  of  fondness  and 
affection  for  him  whom  he  served.  We  were  inclined  to  believe  the 
noble  animal  most  docile  and  the  cowboy  at  once  took  advantage 
of  his  audience  and  started  to  give  a  performance. 

By  a  mere  indication  of  the  bridle-hand,  he  turned  him  to  right 
or  left,  and  by  raising  his  hand,  without  the  slightest  pressure  on 
the  bit,  he  brought  his  charger  to  a  short  and  sudden  stop.  And  how 
well  the  animal  understood  the  maneuvers  desired  by  his  cowboy 
master.  The  animal  was  turned  loose  "after  the  bunch."  He  then 
gave  a  clear  portrayal  of  rounding  up  cattle.  All  the  rider  had  to 
do  was  to  stick  to  him.  This  was  no  mean  task,  for  he  turned  like 
a  flash,  and  was  as  quick  as  a  cat  on  his  feet.  "Go  on,"  was  the 
only  command  necessary,  and  the  horse  was  off  like  the  wind. 

Sir  W.  G.  Reel  became  possessed  of  the  desire  to  determine 
whether  or  not  he  could  ride  the  animal.  The  cowboy  gracefully 
consented  that  the  experiment  be  tried.  As  Reel  climbed  astride 
the  horse  the  rest  of  the  party  were  inclined  to  turn  away  and  be 
spared  the  sight  of  seeing  one  of  our  number  reduced  to  fractions. 
We  trembled  for  him  both  in  admiration  of  his  courage  and  in  sor- 
row of  what  we  anticipated,  and  mentally  fixed  a  valuation  of  "thirty 
cents"  on  his  future  prospects.  But  he  finally  got  astride.  We 
thought  we  could  see  him  flying  across  the  prairie  and  rapidly  draw- 
ing near  the  horizon.  Fortunately,  the  owner  had  his  horse  well 
trained,  crying:  "Whoa!  Do  you  want  to  run  away  and  break 
your  neck?"  The  animal  responded  with  almost  human  intelligence, 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE  17 

and  stood  motionless.  So  submissive  did  he  obey,  that  he  gave  every 
outward  indication  of  desiring  to  lean  against  something  and  think. 

Our  friend,  the  cowboy,  informed  us  that  the  horse  had  but  a 
single  fault.  His  tail  had  been  chopped  off,  or  else  he  had  sat  down 
upon  it  too  hard,  and  was  compelled  to  fight  flies  with  his  heels. 
"He  also  reaches  around  and  bites  my  leg,"  complained  the  owner. 
"I  do  not  care  particularly  about  that,  only  I  don't  believe  a  horse 
should  be  too  sociable."  With  this  startling  information  the  mem- 
bers of  our  party  could  not  but  reflect  how  very  fortunate  it  was 
that  there  were  no  ambitious  flies  about  while  Sir  Reel  was  astride 
the  horse. 

As  the  train  bore  us  southward  short  stops  were  made  at  Sny- 
der,  Fort  Morgan  and  LaSalle.  Ranch  life  in  all  its  attractiveness 
was  laid  before  us,  as  if  upon  the  pages  of  an  open  book.  Green 
pastures  and  productive  fields  were  being  reared  from  the  arid  lands 
by  aid  of  artificial  irrigating  canals  which  supply  moisture  in  the 
face  of  cloudless  skies.  Onward  we  sped  through  great  stock  farms, 
passing  countless  grazing  herds  that  told  of  wealth  and  thrift." 

After  a  short  run  through  these  productive  fields  we  reached 
Brighton,  but  19  miles  out  of  Denver,  and  often  classed  as  one  oj 
the  suburbs  of  that  city.  Leaving  Brighton,  there  was  great  activity 
and  much  skirmishing  among  members  of  the  party.  The  anima- 
tion increased  until  it  rivaled  the  excitement  attending  a  company 
of  firemen  about  to  answer  a  midnight  alarm. 

"Somebody  swiped  my  coat !"  announces  one.  "Say,  Shook,  have 
you  got  a  collar  button?" 

"Porter!  Porter!  Brush  me  up  a  little!"  came  the  command 
from  several  quarters  at  the  same  time. 

"Yas  sar!  in  a  minute — deed  dare  am  'bout  22  ahead  ob  you!" 

"Whoa,  'Kunnie,'  don't  forget  your  camera,"  came  the  advice 
from  one  section  of  the  car,  while  above  the  babel  of  chattering  voices 
some  of  the  following  expressions  were  clearly  audible :  "Hully  gee ! 
I'd  give  four  dollars  if  I  were  shaved !"  "Davie,  are  you  going  to 
wear  your  fatigue  cap?"  "Why  cer-tain-ly !"  "Then  loan  me  your 
hat,  someone  sat  down  on  mine  and  I  can't  get  at  my  cap — eleven 
trunks  fell  on  my  suitcase !" 

And  the  ladies! — Bless  their  hearts!  They  were  right  at  home 
aboard  the  train.  The  quest  for  hair-pins  and  hat-pins  and  efforts 
to  ascertain  whether  "it  was  on  straight"  made  life  on  the  rail  equal 
to  that  in  the  boudoir.  As  toilets  were  being  completed  we  glided 
into  Union  Station  to  the  slow  music  of  the  engine. 

"Den-verrrrrrr !  Den-ver!"  called  the  brakeman.  All  stood 
ready  to  pay  homjage  to  the  "Queen  City  of  the  Plains,"  which  is 
distinguished  for  her  progress  and  modern  methods.  What  excel- 
(2) 


18  A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

lent  order  is  maintained  in  the  vast  Union  Station !  No  frantic  crowd- 
ing and  jostling ;  no  shouting ;  no  confusion ;  no  swaggering  intru- 
sion by  rowdy  hackmen  negotiating  for  fares.  The  latter  gentry  stood 
along  the  curb  line  outside  the  station,  beside  their  long  line  of  con- 
veyances, and  held  their  peace. 

We  had  no  need  for  their  services  at  that  time.  The  Committee 
had  wired  the  Denver  Traction  Company  the  day  before  to  have  a 
"Seeing  Denver"  special  car  in  waiting  for  us  at  the  depot.  With 
this  in  mind  our  party  wended  its  way  through  the  station  and  took 
a  position  on  a  corner  facing  the  depot,  seeking  in  vain  for  the  car 
that  was  not  there. 

Investigation  brought  to  light  the  fact  that  the  freight  wreck, 
which  had  caused  three  hours'  delay  at  Millard,  had  played  havoc 
with  the  schedule,  and  that  the  anticipated  palatial  trolley  car  had 
grown  weary  of  its  wait  and  had  been  returned  to  the  barns.  Un- 
der the  circumstances  no  one  could  be  held  accountable  for  the  dis^- 
appointment,  and  the  joviality  of  the  party  was  in  itself  sufficient 
to  insure  the  good  humor  of  everybody.  Passersby  looked  on  with 
interest  and  inquired  what  it  was  all  about. 

Within  a  few  minutes  the  whole  business  section  of  the  city  was 
aware  of  the  fact  that  the  pilgrims  had  arrived  and  a  dozen  mes- 
sengers were  dispatched  to  the  offices  of  the  traction  company.  The 
delay  afforded  us  ample  opportunity  to  become  acquainted  with  the 
surroundings.  The  picture  presented,  slowly  but  surely  brought  the 
realization  of  the  blissful  consciousness  that  we  were  at  last  beyond 
question,  in  the  beautiful  city  of  Denver.  With  absorbing  interest, 
and  in  blissful  forgetfulness  of  all  else,  we  soon  became  enwrapped 
in  the  romantic  phase  of  our  pilgrimage,  in  all  its  enchanting  de- 
lightfulness. 

Denver,  situated  as  it  is,  on  the  last  of  the  great  plains,  and 
upon  the  threshold  of  the  Rockies,  whose  peaks  were  profiled  against 
the  clouds  in  the  distance,  was  sufficient  to  remove  any  tinge  of 
disappointment  in  our  short  delay,  and  gave  us  the  opportunity  to 
feast  our  eyes  upon  the  sublime,  as  the  pendulum  of  our  thoughts 
swung  from  plains  to  mountains ;  from  mountains  to  plains  again. 

In  the  distance  we  could  see  the  outer  edge  of  the  foot-hills  and 
the  beginning  of  the  rocks  that  climb,  climb,  ever  climb  upward, 
until  capped  by  the  white  purity  of  the  everlasting  snowbanks  that 
link  them  with  the  mysteries  of  the  unknown  in  the  azure  firma- 
ment. Towering  in  majestic  but  silent  eloquence  are  the  hoary  his- 
toric mountains,  such  as  Long's  Peak,  the  Cheyenne  and  Sierra 
Blanca.  Further  to  the  south  loom  up  the  Spanish  Peaks — time  senti- 
nels of  history  and  geology.  Magnificent  ranges  stand  out  about 
us  in  serried  ranks,  lifting  their  heads  far  up  into  the  empyrean  blue. 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE  19 

They  mark  the  scene  where  nature  has  sculptured  vast  areas,  and 
bracketed  them  in  the  heavens  as  mantle-pieces  for  the  skies. 

As  we  gazed  out  upon  the  prospect  we  realized  it  was  but  the 
raising  of  the  first  curtain  upon  scenes  which  we  would  behold  on 
the  morrow.  From  Denver  we  could  see  the  ripples  that  would  swell 
into  waves  of  beauty  in  the  grandeur  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  that 
roll  onward  in  sublimity  toward  the  Pacific  Ocean.  Thus  Nature  in 
the  west  greeted  us  with  an  alluring  smile. 

"Here  comes  the  car!"  "Oh  my!  What  do  you  think  of  that?" 
the  ladies  were  heard  to  exclaim.  "Impossible!  Can't  be  it!"  an- 
nounced a  dozen  voices  in  amazement.  As  the  car  bore  down  up- 
on us  it  had  every  appearance  of  a  tub  upon  storm-tossed  waters ; 
it  zigzagged  and  pendulumed  from  side  to  side  as  if  carrying  water 
on  both  shoulders,  and  yet  undecided  which  shoulder  to  favor.  As 
the  "boat"  arrived  the  sudden  stop  and  application  of  the  brakes  re- 
sulted in  creating  a  most  hideous  noise,  not  unlike  the  dumping  of 
a  cartload  of  cobble  stones  upon  a  surface  of  sheet  iron.  Burry  at 
once  explained:  "Boys!  That's  the  salute!"  Whereupon  we  all 
humbly  but  gracefully  bowed  in  recognition.  We  then  carefully 
scrutinized  the  antediluvian  curiosity  with  keen  interest.  It  would 
have  made  a  cherished  specimen  for  the  national  museum  of  an- 
tiquities, or  could  have  been  condemned  to  the  junk  heap  without  in- 
trinsic loss  to  anyone. 

A  banner  bearing  the  invitation:  "See  Denver  by  Trolley," 
was  stretched  across  the  "cow-catcher,"  or  fender.  The  muslin  ban- 
ner served  a  two-fold  purpose — to  advertise  the  enterprise  as  well 
as  shield  from  view  the  absence  of  bolts  from  places  most  neces- 
sary. Strangers  are  prone  to  mistake  these  cars  for  sand  cars,  al- 
though they  are  entitled  to  marked  respect,  owing  to  their  advanced 
age  and  the  many  years  they  have  engaged  in  faithful  service.  While 
there  were  evidences  that  the  car  had  once  experienced  the  robust 
full-bloom  of  youth,  it  was  now  rapidly  wasting  away  in  the  street. 
Perhaps  the  car  still  had  hopes  in  the  rarefied  air  of  Denver. 

However,  it  was  finally  agreed  to  trust  ourselves  to  the  mercies 
of  the  car.  As  we  started  to  board  the  "Pullman"  the  conductor 
cautiously  "sized  us  up,"  one  by  one,  explaining  that  it  was  necessary 
that  the  passengers  be  properly  distributed,  and  seated  in  such  posi- 
tion as  to  keep  the  car  balanced.  It  was  evident  that  the  tonnage 
exceeded  the  capacity  of  the  car  for  the  body  of  the  car  sank  down 
until  it  rested  upon  the  wheels  with  a  groan. 

We  started,  and  as  the  car  shot  forward  with  the  speed  and 
grace  of  a  team  of  oxen,  the  wheels  sent  forth  a  continual  piercing 
grind  that  appealed  strongly  to  our  sympathies.  The  drop  doors  in 
the  floor  of  the  car  were  well  worn  off  their  hinges,  and  each  time 


20  A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

the  car  bumped  its  way  over  a  crossing  the  jolting  of  the  primitive 
motors  sent  the  doors  up  to  smite  the  passengers,  as  if  in  protest 
against  their  burdensome  task. 

It  soon  became  evident  that  there  had  been  a  miscalculation  in 
the  division  of  the  tonnage.  There  was,  apparently,  too  much 
avoirdupois  on  the  right  side — or  to  be  more  correct,  on  the  wrong 
side.  Difficulty  was  found  in  maintaining  the  equilibrium  of  the  car. 
It  moved  along  with  a  see-saw  motion  that  became  more  pro- 
nounced as  the  conductor  waded  through  the  aisle. 

An  announcer,  with  megaphone  in  hand,  had  taken  his  station 
at  the  head  of  the  car,  and  he,  by  the  way,  as  well  as  the  conductor, 
was  polite  and  obliging,  and  both  deserved  a  better  fate.  The  an- 
nouncer began  to  open  fire  with  his  volley  of  information,  not  only 
identifying  and  explaining  everything  that  presented  itself  along  the 
route  but  also  entered  into  a  general  description  and  history  of  the 
city  itself. 

"Ladies  and  gentlemen!  Denver — the  capital — the  commercial 
center  and  principal  city  in  the  state  of  Colorado !  Fifteen  miles  east 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains  on  a  level  plain  5,196  feet  above  the  sea! 
In  the  46  years  since  its  origin,  this  village  of  miners  grew  into  the 
handsome  '  Queen  City  of  the  Plains.' 

"  The  Union  Pacific  Railway  route  across  the  continent  was  the 
first  constructed.  It  was  opened  in  1869  and  greatly  encouraged 
travel  to  the  Pacific  coast. 

"Denver  is  also  called  'The  Great  City  of  the  Rockies.'  You  will 
note  the  snow-capped  summits  in  the  west  in  a  magnificent  and  un- 
broken line,  in  view  for  170  miles  from  Pike's  Peak  in  the  north  to 
Long's  Peak ;  with  many  intermediate  summits,  most  of  which  rise 
14,000  feet.  Denver  stands  on  a  high  plateau  through  which  the 
South  Platte  River  flows.  It  has  a  population  of  134,000,  gathered 
from  all  sections  of  the  globe.  It  shelters  many  manufacturing  en- 
terprises, and  some  of  the  most  extensive  and  important  ore  smelt- 
ing works  in  the  world!  The  annual  output  of  silver  and  gold  is 
enormous ! 

"The  high  elevation  and  healthful  climate  make  it  a  beneficial 
resort  for  those  suffering  from  pulmonary  ailments.  The  artesian 
water  supply  has  no  equal  in  the  world,  being  taken  from  more  than 
300  wells,  running  from  380  to  1160  feet  beneath  the  city!  This 
water  is  as  clear  and  pure  as  the  flawless  crystal!  Forty-eight  miles 
south  of  the  city  Denver  has  built  for  its  water  works  the  highest 
dam  in  the  world.  The  city  was  named  in  honor  of  General  James 
W.  Denver,  an  early  governor  of  Kansas  and  a  soldier  in  the  Civil 
War.  He  first  suggested  Colorado  as  the  name  (for  what  was  then) 
a  territory. 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE  21 

"Note  the  great  Colorado  Front  Range,  or  eastern  ridge  of  the 
Rockies,  stretching  gradually  across  the  country  with  ranges  in  the 
rear  extending  far  into  the  west  to  the  Utah  Pass.  Towering  be- 
hind the  front  range,  is  Saguache  Range,  the  chief  ridge  of  the 
Rockies,  which  forms  the  Continental  Divide. 

"Among  these  complicated  ranges  are  various  extensive  parks 
and  broad  valleys,  nestling  among  peaks  and  ridges,  and  which  were 
originally  the  beds  of  inland  lakes.  Out  of  these  mountains,  flow 
scores  of  rivers  in  every  direction;  the  affluents  of  the  Mississippi  to 
the  east,  the  Rio  Grande  to  the  south  and  the  Colorado  and  Colum- 
bus to  the  west." 

The  announcer  next  called  attention  to  the  public  buildings, 
cathedrals,  churches,  schools,  playhouses,  and  the  palatial  and  well- 
appointed  hotels.  Smilingly  he  referred  to  the  street  car  system,  and 
as  a  fitting  climax,  the  motor  of  our  car  burnt  out  at  the  moment  he 
attained  the  height  of  his  eulogy. 

Here  we  were  detained  for  a  time  and  patiently  sat  in  our 
palatial  gondola  awaiting  assistance.  A  good  Samaritan,  in  the  form 
of  one  of  the  regulation  city  traction  cars  appeared,  and  becoming 
attached  to  our  car,  both  in  spirit  and  by  means  of  a  coupling  pin, 
valiantly  towed  us  into  the  nearest  car-barn. 

Our  fond  expectations  for  a  more  modern  vehicle  were  wrested 
from  us,  for  entering  the  car-barn,  we  beheld  several  more  ''Seeing 
Denver"  trucks  resting  upon  the  tracks.  Among  the  employees  of 
the  barn  these  antiques  were  known  under  the  names  of  "Adam," 
"Methusela,"  "Jacob"  and  "Isaac" — all  the  ancient  patriarchs  being 
honored  in  one  of  these  relics  of  time. 

We  were  quickly  transferred  into  another  ancient  car,  and  as 
it  repulsed  the  idea  of  further  service  with  painful  groans  while 
slowly  wending  its  way  upon  the  main  tracks,  the  announcer  con- 
tinued his  "speil,"  enumerating  the  industries  of  the  city. 

"The  building  on  your  left,"  he  continued,  "is  the  public  library 
with  over  100,000  volumes.  On  your  left  is  a  public  school,  of  which 
there  are  60  in  the  city,  with  a  daily  attendance  of  26,000  pupils  and 
580  teachers.  To  your  right — the  law  schools  and  medical  college. 
^Approaching  on  the  left,  is  Uhe  Denver  Club,  erected  at  a  cost  of  a 
quarter  of  a  million  dollars — the  Denver  Athletic  Club,  a  $225,000 
structure.  Here  is  the  University  Club;  yonder  the  Woman's  Club, 
with  a  membership  of  over  1,000." 

We  then  passed  through  a  residential  section  of  the  city  lined 
with  beautiful  homes  and  intersected  by  broad  avenues  lined  with 
shade  trees  and  magnificent  lawns.  Denver  is  almost  exclusively  a 
city  of  brick  and  stone ;  the  buildings  with  few  exceptions,  are  costly 
and  substantial,  and  thoroughly  modern  in  appointments.  The  State 


22  A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

Capitol  is  graced  with  a  lofty  dome,  and  stands  on  a  high  eminence, 
making  it  visible  from  all  points  of  the  city.  It  was  erected  at  a  cost 
of  $2,500,000. 

As  we  bounded  along  the  car  shook  and  groaned  terribly.  Pas- 
sengers were  rolling  from  one  end  to  the  other.  Momentarily  we 
expected  to  see  our  bones  protruding  through  our  skins.  After  a 
succession  of  fearful  bumps,  we  found  ourselves  bobbing  along 
rather  smoothly. 

Sir  Samuel  Coombs,  with  a  sincerity  born  of  hope,  expressed  the 
cheerful  sentiment :  "We  are  going  a  bit  smoother,  I  see." 

"Yes,"  announced  Sir  C.  C.  Heckel,  "We're  off  the  track  now." 

His  declaration  was  true  to  the  letter.  We  had  traveled  several 
hundred  feet  without  touching  a  rail.  The  conductor  and  the  an- 
nouncer at  once  entered  into  an  impromptu  debate  as  to  a  method  of 
relief,  when  Sir  Harry  Kreps  offered  a  practical  suggestion,  which 
was  at  once  acted  upon,  and  we  were  again  upon  the  rail.  Were  it 
not  for  the  uncertainty  of  the  route,  all  would  have  preferred  to  re- 
main off  the  tracks. 

Proceeding  slowly  onward,  we  soon  found  ourselves  at  one  of 
Denver's  beautiful  parks.  A  picturesque  sight  was  presented.  Scat- 
tered about,  were  rustic  seats  and  benches  in  secluded  nooks  that 
were  dark  with  shade.  Rivulets  of  crystal  water;  lakelets  with 
grassy  banks;  glimpses  of  sparkling  cascades  through  openings  in 
wildernesses  of  foliage ;  streams  of  clear  water  gushing  from  artificial 
knots  on  trunks  of  huge  trees — all  aided  to  form  the  beauty  of  the 
picture. 

Many  airy  lookouts  are  provided  here  where  one  might  gaze  up- 
on broad  expanses  of  landscape.  Banks  of  rare  flowers  lent  fragrance 
to  the  air.  The  customary  park  sign,  "Keep  off  the  grass,"  was  ab- 
sent, but  instead,  placards  were  prominently  displayed  bearing  the 
inscription:  "Keep  in  the  path." 

The  command  to  keep  within  the  narrow  confines  of  the  "path," 
was  the  source  of  much  merriment  to  members  of  our  party.  Many 
acknowledged  having  tried  to  keep  within  this  command  of  seeking 
the  "straight  and  narrow  path"  for  some  time. 

After  squirming  around  the  city  for  a  short  time  our  car 
finally  brought  up  near  the  beginning  of  our  expedition.  It  might 
be  said  here,  in  justice  to  the  Denver  Street  Car  Company,  that  the 
"Seeing  Denver"  cars  are  controlled  by  a  different  company  than  the 
one  controlling  the  traction  service.  Ohily  such  cars  as  are  dis- 
carded as  being  unfit  for  further  service,  were  allotted  to  the  "See- 
ing Denver"  company.  Denver,  with  its  820  miles  of  streets,  has 
150  miles  of  electric  street  railway  as  completely  and  modernly 
equipped  as  any  other  city  in  the  country. 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE  23 

Leaving  the  car,  we  found  ourselves  ready  to  do  justice  to  a 
substantial  dinner.  However,  as  we  had  but  limited  time  to  re- 
main in  Denver,  we  decided  that  it  would  be  best  to  devote  as  much 
of  it  as  possible  to  sight-seeing,  and  partake  only  of  a  light  lunch- 
eon. 

Sirs  Jack,  Shook,  Sample,  Beckert  and  Mr.  Ivon  Morris  Lowrie, 
the  advance  guard,  spied  a  restaurant,  in  front  of  which  was  sta- 
tioned a  loud-voiced  barker,  who  shouted  the  encouraging  invitation: 
"Best  meal  in  the  city!  All  you  can  eat  for  twenty-five  cents!" 

"That's  me!  Here  too!  Aye!  Aye!  I'm  for  you!"  shouted 
the  invading  advance  guard. 

The  lunch  room  was  so  impressively  inviting  that  it  opened 
right  into  the  street.  The  cooking  apparatus  was  secreted  in  tne 
rear,  and  as  the  advance  guard  rushed  literally  into  the  arms  of 
the  lone  waiter,  his  countenance  broke  into  a  smile  that  denoted 
realization  of  promised  prosperity.  The  waiter  at  once  regained  com- 
posure, and  taking  on  an  important  air,  gave  every  evidence  of  being 
proprietor  as  well.  As  a  matter  of  fact,  he  was  a  man  of  many  at- 
tainments, and  soon  proved  himself  to  be  the  one  performer  of  the 
roles  of  proprietor,  head  waiter,  waiter,  chef,  dishwasher,  (if  there 
was  any)  and  last  but  not  least — the  cashier.  The  barker  was  the 
only  other  official  of  the  corporation,  and  it  is  doubtful  whether  or 
not  he  was  a  stockholder. 

The  table  had  no  cloth  upon  it.  The  waiter  had,  but  it  was  in 
such  condition  as  to  add  to  his  slovenly  appearance  and  that  of  the 
eating-house  in  general.  The  fellow  began  calling  out  the  offer- 
ings of  the  menu  with  a  rapidity  that  bespoke  of  a  permanent  and 
never-changing  bill-of-fare. 

Taking  the  orders  he  faced  in  the  direction  of  the  supposed  lo- 
cation of  the  cook  and  shouted  a  repetition  of  the  orders  received. 
Then  there  was  a  delay.  Obligingly  he  gave  the  information  that 
he  would  interview  the  cook  and  "hurry  him  along." 

Rushing  into  the  rear  the  waiter-cook  was  seen  to  take  down  a 
mass  of  meat,  and  spreading  it  around  a  wire  creation,  laid  it  over 
a  smoldering  fire  to  cook.  As  it  was  finished  to  his  liking,  he  laid  it 
aside,  just  as  a  wandering  dog  stalked  sadly  into  the  kitchen.  The 
canine  sniffed  at  it,  and  probably  recognizing  the  remnants  of  a 
one-time  fellow  companion,  kissed  the  steak  with  tears  in  his  eyes. 
The  cook  indignantly  took  it  away  from  the  dog  and  hurried  it  in  to 
the  guests. 

Jack,  who  is  acquainted  with  the  rules  of  euchre,  announced: 
"I  pass."  Shook,  who  never  could  be  interested  in  golf,  would  have 
nothing  to  do  with  the  sausage  links.  In  fact,  all  "passed"  in  turn, 
and  called  for  a  new  deal.  Then  the  chef  cooked  broad,  flat  wheat 


24  A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

cakes,  and  greasing  them  generously  with  sausage  meat,  started  for- 
ward with  them.  A  few  dropped  to  the  floor  (the  cakes),  but  he 
picked  them  up  with  great  care,  and  polishing  them  off  gently  on 
his  elbow,  laid  them  before  the  diners  with  proud  satisfaction. 

Sample  said  he  would  "stand  pat."  Beckert  announced  that 
Ivon  Morris  "took  the  cake,"  and  passed  them  along.  Lowrie  be- 
lieved it  would  be  malicious  to  demolish  such  exquisite  pastry,  and 
the  cakes  remained  untouched.  But  the  resourceful  and  willing 
chef  remained  patiently  at  his  work.  Breaking  a  few  eggs  into  a 
frying-pan,  he  stood  by  meditating,  as  he  pried  morsels  of  meat  from 
between  his  teeth  with  a  fork,  stopping  only  to  turn  the  eggs — 
with  the  same  fork.  As  he  brought  in  this  course,  the  banqueters, 
in  a  moment  of  unrest,  ordered  another  ration  of  sausage  to  dis- 
pense with  the  presence  of  the  cook  in  order  to  hold  a  consultation. 
Undaunted,  the  cook  again  got  out  his  wire  cooking  utensil,  wound 
the  proper  allotment  of  sausage  meat  around  it,  and  rolling  up  his 
sleeves,  spat  upon  his  hands,  and  fell  upon  his  work  with  vim  and 
vigor.  Then  Jack,  Shook,  Sample,  Beckert  and  Lowrie  passed  out 
into  the  rarified  air  of  the  street. 

The  quintette  sized  up  another  restaurant  in  the  immediate 
vicinity.  "It  don't  look  good  to  me,"  declared  Shook".  "Let's  in- 
quire," suggested  Beckert.  So  Sample  began  to  cross-examine  the 
proprietor.  "How  are  the  sandwiches  to-day — fresh?"  With  in- 
dignation at  the  intimation,  the  proprietor  answered:  "If  you  turn 
my  sandwiches  over,  you  will  find  the  date  of  issue  on  each  one. 
They  were  all  fresh  made,  even  if  I  don't  remember  just  when  they 
were  created.  If  you  have  artificial  teeth  that  fail  to  penetrate  the 
sandwich,  it  is  the  fault  of  your  dentist  for  not  welding  them  out 
of  iron  ore!" 

"How's  the  eggs?"  was  asked. 

"Eggs  are  our  specialty,"  declared  the  proprietor,  "that's  why 
they  call  this  restaurant  'The  Henry.'  As  soon  as  the  eggs  are 
turned  over  to  me  for  inspection  by  the  hen,  they  are  dated,  and 
when  fried  or  boiled,  they  are  again  timed  with  red  ink.  If  any  of 
my  help  should  date  an  egg  ahead,  I  would  discharge  him  on  the 
spot.  No  restaurant  in  Denver  would  attempt  to  compete  with  me. 
I  have  the  kindest  regard  for  travelers.  I  would  hate  to  meet  them 
in  eternity  holding  nuggets  of  rancid  ham  sandwiches  under  my  nose. 
I  never  have  to  apologize  for  my  hand-turned,  seamless  pies,  either." 
As  the  proprietor  reached  for  an  abandoned  cigar  stump,  Lowrie 
struck  up  the  air: 

"It  may  be  so,  for  all  we  know; 
But  it  sounds  to  us  like  a  lie." 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE  25 

All  fled,  hungry  and  disappointed,  and  hailed  two  of  those  sawed- 
off  landaus,  bearing  but  two  wheels.  Instructing  the  college  students 
on  the  box  to  take  them  to  the  nearest  hotel,  the  famished  five 
handed  over  a  quarter  apiece,  and  lay  back  and  sighed  a  sigh  of 
relief.  The  sigh  had  hardly  been  heaved,  when  the  landaus  were 
brought  to  a  stop  at  a  hotel  within  200  yards  from  where  the  ve- 
hicles started. 

After  all  had  dined,  a  stroll  was  taken  about  the  streets  of 
Denver  with  the  purpose  of  viewing  such  sights  as  were  on  view, 
without  distressing  or  exerting  ourselves.  Several  of  the  Sir  Knights 
visited  the  headquarters  of  the  local  Commanderies  and  were  most 
courteously  received,  in  some  instances  it  almost  became  necessary 
to  use  force  in  effecting  a  leave-taking.  The  Sir  Knights  of  our 
party  who  had  made  the  call,  took  great  pride  in  exhibiting  and 
wearing  "exchange"  badges  which  their  Denver  brethren  had  be- 
stowed upon  them. 

The  day  was  drawing  to  a  close  with  the  same  rare  demonstra- 
tion as  graced  its  beginning.  The  horizon  was  cast  with  half  red- 
ness; in  an  amber  sky,  depths  were  assuming  color,  long  oblique 
flames  were  empurpling  the  mountains,  then  the  rocks,  and  finally,  the 
sands.  Shadows  were  taking  possession  of  the  land  which  had  be- 
come fatigued  by  the  heat  of  the  first  half  of  the  day. 

As  the  sun  sank  over  the  violet  mountains  and  night  made  ready 
to  fall,  the  birds  came  from  out  of  their  shelter  and  chirruped  and 
sang  in  the  gardens,  while  the  people  in  the  streets,  terraces  and 
verandas  rapidly  became  multiplied  in  numbers. 

As  we  drove  and  walked  along  the  streets  of  Denver  we  be- 
came deeply  impressed  and  instilled  with  the  refreshing  spirit  of 
comfort  which  seemed  to  pervade  all  things.  It  is  in  marked  contrast 
to  the  busy,  restless,  driving,  vitality-consuming  atmosphere  of  West- 
ern Pennsylvania.  One  of  the  greatest  charms  of  Denver  life  is 
the  "free-from-care"  feeling  that  prevails  everywhere  at  the  close 
of  the  work  of  the  day.  Minds  are  not  burdened  with  the  losses 
or  gains  of  the  day,  or  the  plans  for  the  morrow,  after  nightfall. 
Energies  are  not  burned  with  these  restless  excitements,  nor  lives 
worn  out  at  a  time  when  they  should  be  in  full  bloom  among  Den- 
verites. 

As  the  farmer  offers  a  season's  rest  to  the  acre  of  land  which 
has  served  him  well;  as  the  trainmen  stable  each  engine  at  the  end 
of  the  division,  to  allow  the  machinery  to  cool;  as  the  barber  lays 
aside  the  razor  which  has  seen  continued  service,  that  relaxation 
may  bring  back  a  keener  edge — so  the  people  of  the  west  store  their 
energies  during  the  evening  and  night,  and  with  fresh  vitality  at 


26  A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

command  each  morn,  have  made  the  country  renowned  for  its  enter- 
prise and  achievement. 

Evening  walks  and  drives  in  and  about  Denver  are  enchant- 
ing. Concerts  and  musical  functions  are  provided  lavishly.  The 
people  of  the  west  have  a  keener  appreciation  of  the  purpose  of 
life  and  the  necessity  of  relaxation  than  have  their  brethren  in  the 
east.  The  contagion  of  the  spirit  was  manifest  in  members  of  our 
party,  who  had  not  only  gained  substantially  in  weight,  but  in  cheer- 
fulness as  well;  not  to  mention  the  improvement  in  looks. 

We  left  Denver  and  our  friend  Mr.  S.  K.  Hooper,  a  happy  shining 
light,  at  9 :30  o'clock  at  night  over  the  Denver  &  Rio  Grande  Railroad, 
properly  known  as  the  "Scenic  Line  of  the  World."  It  carried  us 
through  the  portal  of  grandeur  which  opens  into  the  grand  audi- 
torium of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  where  Nature  sings  her  most  won- 
drous music.  As  the  train  bore  us  rapidly  southward,  we  became 
enrapt  with  the  inspiration  wrought  by  the  sublimity  of  the 
mountain  land.  While  we  stood  admiring  the  cloud-capped  peaks 
and  the  lowlands  robed  in  misty  gloom,  a  finer  and  more  entranc- 
ing picture  burst  upon  us  and  chained  every  eye  with  magnetic  force. 
We  were  approaching  Pike's  Peak. 

We  stopped  for  a  time  at  Palmer  Lake,  with  more  of  mountain 
and  less  of  plain,  with  its  Glen  Park  and  Chautauqua.  This  is  the 
divide,  the  watershed,  where  to  the  north  the  tributaries  feed  the 
South  Platte  and  to  the  south  they  wind  their  w,ay  to  the  Arkansas 
River. 

As  we  start  onward  we  come  into  full  realization  of  Pike's  Peak. 
Previously,  this  monarch  had  been  to  us  only  a  name.  True  we 
had  seen  the  mountain  in  picture,  and  heard  of  it  in  poem  and  song, 
but  at  last  it  had  become  a  reality,  a  shape — we  were  sitting  in  the 
majestic  presence  of  the  great  throne. 

The  monarch  was  still  far  away  when  we  first  saw  it,  but  there 
was  no  such  thing  as  mistaking,  for  it  towers  into  the  sky  like  a 
colossal  wedge,  and  stands  in  sublime  solitude  which  bespeaks  pride 
and  dignity.  A  portion  of  this  stately  piece  of  rock,  this  sky-cleaving 
monolith,  is  above  the  line  of  eternal  snow.  Some  of  the  neighbor- 
ing giants  of  rock  appear  black  from  waist  up,  while  Pike's  Peak 
stands  naked  and  forbidding.  Its  sides  are  so  perpendicular  that 
snow  cannot  rest  upon  them  except  for  a  few  powdered  streaks  in 
the  crevices.  Near  the  top,  however,  the  snow  takes  hold  and  re- 
mains perpetually. 

Its  proud  stature,  its  august  isolation,  and  its  majestic  unkin- 
ship  with  its  own  kind,  lends  a  sacred  dignity  to  this  Napoleon  of 
the  mountain  world. 

We  passed  Monument  and  Husted,  and  caught  a  few  glimpses 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE  27 

of  the  towns,  but  we  could  not  become  interested  in  such  things, 
for  we  were  in  a  fever  of  impatience  to  meet  the  monarch  of  the 
mountains  face  to  face. 

It  was  after  midnight  when  we  arrived  at  the  trio  cities  of  Colora- 
do Springs,  Colorado  City  and  Manitou.  Here  Pike's  Peak  becomes 
more  rugged  and  sublime — so  vast,  so  grand,  so  solemn!  While  a 
very  world  of  solid  weight,  this  monster  looms  up  in  the  soft  moon- 
light, as  a  fairy  delusion  of  frostwork  that  one  might  vanquish  with 
a  breath.  It  appeared  as  a  vision,  so  delicate,  so  airy,  so  graceful ! 

Howsoever  who  look  upon  it  it  is  noble  and  beautiful,  and  while 
it  is  visible  no  counter-attraction  can  command  your  attention.  Leave 
your  eyes  unfettered  for  an  instant  and  they  will  revert  to  gaze  upon 
Pike's  Peak.  Half  the  night,  and  all  of  the  next  day,  this  masterpiece 
of  nature's  architecture  was  our  sole  object  of  interest. 

As  the  morning  was  ushered  in  and  many  of  the  pilgrims  sought 
their  berths,  all  lights  aboard  the  train  were  turned  down,  with  the 
exception  of  those  in  the  "stag"  coach  and  commissary  car.  The 
"Terrible  Quartette"  expressed  a  desire  to  lift  up  their  voices  and 
sing  in  praise  of  Pike's  Peak.  Others,  equally  inspired,  joined  in, 
regardless  of  the  formality  of  following  the  same  music  and  song. 
However,  nothing  was  broken  but  the  stillness  of  the  night. 

We  were  all  fond  of  music,  and  the  flute,  jew's-harp,  clarionet, 
bazoo  and  bass  drum  played  in  active  competition  on  the  same  tunes. 
How  we  remember  them!  It  is  doubtful  if  we  can  ever  rid  them 
from  our  minds.  The  triangle  and  grind-organ  were  never  played 
except  at  devotional  services,  or  at  such  times  when  the  ladies  were 
awake.  The  music  from  these  two  instruments  was  too  inspiring 
to  waste  on  mere  men. 

It  was  greatly  to  our  sorrow  that  it  was  impossible  to  have  a 
piano  on  board.  Sir  Sample  has  wonderful  command  over  this 
instrument.  With  a  mere  wave  of  his  hand,  he  can  make  an  upright 
lay  down  and  beg.  As  for  baby  grands,  he  can  make  them  come 
and  eat  out  of  his  hand. 

A  proposition  was  made  that  Leininger  favor  us  with  a  new 
selection  on  the  consumptive  accordion.  The  bandbox  had  been 
chained  under  his  seat  since  the  day  it  met  with  the  fatal  accident. 
A  committee  appointed  for  the  purpose  used  considerable  persua- 
sion and  Leininger  finally  consented.  Then  everyone  scrambled  for 
a  gallery  seat.  As  the  musician  entered  with  instrument  under  his 
arm,  he  announced  that  he  would  play  a  lullaby  to  Pike's  Peak. 
"Imagine  a  lullaby  on  an  accordion!"  said  "Kunnie." 

As  he  strode  to  and  fro,  gracefully  swinging  his  accordion,  as 
with  uplifted  head  he  sang  a  song  of  tears  to  the  mountain  king,  un- 
fortunately he  tripped  over  a  rope  which  had  been  stretched  from 


28  A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

refrigerator  to  lunch  counter.  As  someone  yelled  "Murder!"  Lein- 
inger  fell  into  a  heap  upon  his  precious  music-box.  Amid  the  peals 
of  laughter  that  were  echoed  from  the  mountains,  Leininger  ex- 
claimed: "Well,  what  do  you  think  of  that?" — gathered  himself  up, 
and  with  a  painful  look  of  disgust,  picked  up  the  fragments  of  his 
accordion,  and  piece  by  piece,  hurled  it  out  upon  the  tracks. 

Sir  Aberli  knew  part  of  a  melody — something  about  "How 
sweet  it  was  to  know  something  or  other."  We  took  it  for  granted 
it  would  have  been  much  sweeter  if  he  had  known  all  about  it,  for 
he  remembered  only  a  few  bars  of  the  melody  and  played  them  con- 
tinuously. 

We  finally  contracted  with  him  to  restrain  himself,  but  not 
until  all  had  joined  with  him  in  several  efforts  to  improve  the  classic 
composition.  "Bobbie,"  who  was  one  of  the  most  ambitious  assistant 
composers,  failed  in  his  efforts.  His  voice  was  so  strong  that  it 
required  eight  or  ten  men  to  control  it. 

Starting  with  a  faint,  dismal  sort  of  Bass — about  third  base — 
it  would  suddenly  be  caught  by  a  short-stop,  and  finally  land  some- 
where between  center  and  left  field.  Besides,  "Bobbie"  was  not 
acquainted  with  the  melody  which  was  being  sacrificed,  and  this 
also  worked  to  his  disadvantage. 

William  plead  with  him:  "Come  Bobbie,  don't  improvise.  It's 
too  egotistical.  It  will  provoke  remark.  Just  stick  to  'How  sweet  it 
is  to  know,'  etc.  You  can't  improve  upon  it  on  the  spur  of  the  mo- 
ment!" 

"Bobbie"  insisted  that  he  was  not  improvising,  but  was  restrict- 
ing his  vocal  efforts  along  the  lines  laid  out  by  the  composer.  Sir 
Greenwald  expressed  himself  publicly  on  the  horror  of  the  exhibi- 
tion, for  which  he  was  not  allowed  to  join  in.  He  stated  that  such 
singing  was  to  him  what  a  red  rag  was  to  a  bull,  and  insisted  that 
any  further  efforts  on  the  part  of  the  nightingales  would  bring  dis- 
grace upon  the  whole  party,  and  that  it  was  a  mean  advantage  to 
take  in  the  presence  of  Pike's  Peak,  inasmuch  as  the  king  of  the 
mountains  had  not  the  power  of  speech  to  express  himself. 

"Bobbie,"  however,  was  not  to  be  constrained,  and  continued 
to  tear  off  additional  bars  of  his  selections,  meanwhile  viewing  the 
outer  world  from  the  open  door  of  the  commissary  car.  William 
looked  at  Otto  and  Otto  looked  at  Burry.  They  turned  around  and 
saw  Oscar  looking  at  Staiger  and  Staiger  looking  at  Oscar ;  then  all 
turned  and  gazed  on  "Bobbie."  "Bill"  thought  he  would  break  up 
the  racket  by  asking:  "Bobbie,  will  you  be  so  kind  as  to  tell  us  the 
altitude  of  Pike's  Peak?"  The  singing  went  on,  heedless  of  the 
question  put.  Burry  asked:  "What  street  car  will  I  take  for  the 
South  Side?"  The  singing  continued.  Oscar  asked:  "Bob,  oh  Bob, 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 


29 


do  you  think  you'll  work  tomorrow  ?"  No  cessation ;  the  storm  con- 
tinued. Otto  tapped  him  on  the  shoulders  and  whispered  some- 
thing in  his  ear,  but  "Bobbie"  only  shook  his  head  and  soared  higher 
and  higher.  Then  we  entreated  him,  we  begged  and  plead  with  him 
in  the  name  of  all  that  was  good,  and  for  the  sake  of  our  dear  wives 
and  families  so  many  miles  away,  for  the  sake  of  humanity,  to  please 
stop ;  but  our  entreaties  were  of  no  more  avail  than  had  we  remained 
dumb.  Then  we  tried  the  custom  of  politics,  by  endeavoring  to 
bribe  him  with  money,  pearls,  precious  stones,  U.  S.  Bonds,  and  U. 
S.  Steel,  or  even  offered  to  stop  somewhere  and  make  him  a  present 
of  a  ranch  with  a  thousand  acres  to  boot,  if  he  would  only  cease 
and  allow  the  weary  to  rest.  We  were  now  positive  that  "Bobbie" 
was  wound  up,  so  we  silently  took  "French  leave"  as  "Bobbie"  looked 
without.  Presently  he  turned  about.  His  audience  consisted  only 
of  Johnstone  seated  on  the  refrigerator — fast  asleep.  With  guilty 
conscience  "Bobbie"  silently  tip-toed  off  to  bed. 


CHAPTER  IV 


NDER  the  shadows  of  Pike's  Peak  we  slept  the  peaceful 
slumbers  of  the  just.  We  dreamt  of  the  pleasures  that  were 
and  of  the  pleasures  that  were  to  be.  Ere  the  sun  had  risen 
its  head  above  the  most  distant  mountain  peak  the  pilgrims 
were  bounding  from  their  berths  on  this  cheerful  mid-summer  morn- 
ing— Tuesday,  August  the  23rd. 

Early  rising  at  Colorado  Springs  is  no  exertion.  The  fresh- 
ness and  exquisite  purity  of  the  atmosphere  thrills  one,  while  there 
is  an  indescribable  charm  in  the  early  gloaming,  as  it  steals  silently 
over  the  mountains. 

To  enjoy  the  exquisite  inception  of  a  new  day,  one  must  be  up 
ere  the  glory  of  the  starlight  has  paled,  as  we  did  that  morning. 
The  air  was  perfumed  with  a  heavenly  fragrance.  And  the  birds! 
They  swept  back  and  forth  across  the  valleys  constantly,  while 
their  jubilant  music  was  never  stilled. 

From  the  position  in  which  our  "special"  was  side-tracked,  we 
commanded  a  glorious  view  of  the  valley,  and  the  many  peaks  be- 
yond. As  a  pale  daffodil  light  crept  upward,  the  stars  faded  from 
the  heavens.  The  great  ghostly  dome  changed  in  hue  from  deep 
purple  to  a  cold  dead  white,  while  the  distant  snow-capped  peaks 
stood  boldly  forth  under  a  glittering  dazzle  of  light,  and  silvery  gray 


30  A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

mists  floated  upward  from  the  valley  as  if  awakening  from  their 
sleep. 

A  faint  chilled  breath  of  some  cold  current  heralds  the  daybreak 
and  the  tremulous  leaves  quiver  and  whisper  greetings  to  the  dawn. 
Suddenly  a  faint  flush  of  rosy  light  tinges  the  highest  peak  and  grad- 
ually stealing  downward  overspreads  range  beyond  range  until,  in 
another  moment,  the  whole  chain  of  mountains  were  alike  ablaze 
in  the  fiery  glow.  Meanwhile,  the  valleys  remain  shrouded  in  purple 
gloom  and  a  great,  solemn  stillness  brooded  over  all. 

It  was  a  deep,  satisfying  and  never-to-be-forgotten  pleasure  to 
observe  the  sun  create  the  new  morn,  and  gradually,  slowly  and 
patiently  clothe  it  with  splendor  after  splendor,  and  glory  upon 
glories,  till  the  miracle  was  complete. 

Okir  attentions  were  riveted — deeply  absorbed  in  the  marvel  be- 
fore us.  The  billowy  chaos  of  mazy  mountain  domes,  and  the 
peaks  draped  in  imperishable  snow,  were  flooded  with  a  glory  of 
changing  and  dissolving  splendor;  while  through  rifts  in  a  black 
cloud-bank  above  the  sun  radiated  lances  of  diamond  dust  which  shot 
out  to  the  zenith.  The  valleys  of  the  lower  world  swam  in  a  tinted 
mist,  which  veiled  the  ruggedness  of  their  crags,  ribs  and  forests,  and 
turned  all  the  forbidding  region  into  a  soft,  rich  and  sensuous  para- 
dise. 

We  spoke  not  a  word.  No  expressions  were  exchanged.  We 
could  only  gaze — and  in  ecstasy  drink  in  the  wonder-work  of  the 
heavens.  Moment  by  moment  it  grew  grander  and  more  wonder- 
ful in  color  effect.  Then  suddenly — as  the  sun  rolled  into  full  sight 
— an  orb  of  gleaming  gold  flooded  the  world  beneath  with  almost  in- 
sufferable radiance!  Voluminous  masses  of  white  clouds  were  hur- 
ried away  by  the  sweepings  of  the  north  winds!  For  an  instant  the 
sun  was  hidden  from  view,  but  again  appeared  to  demonstrate  its 
right  of  eminent  domain — then  gracefully  retired  behind  a  soft  filmy 
veiling  of  cloud,  that  served  to  distill  the  light  of  day. 

While  there  was  no  fire  on  board  the  train  during  the  previous 
night  (though  there  was  considerable  of  "a  hot  time,")  there  was  a 
marked  scarcity  of  water  in  the  morning,  several  of  the  early  risers 
wending  their  way  down  to  a  nearby  creek  to  bathe  in  the  open. 
It  seemed  to  them  a  blessed  privilege,  and  resulted  in  those  taking 
the  "water-cure"  feeling  refreshed  and  even  light-hearted. 

Returning  to  the  railroad  station,  "Joe,"  who  was  in  the  lead, 
gave  the  command :  "Come  on  boys !"  as  he  entered  and  gathered 
his  army  in  front  of  the  window  of  the  telegraph  operator,  who  was 
a  young  woman.  Sir  Gilchrist,  with  pride-swollen  chest,  and  strik- 
ing an  attitude  of  independence  by  thrusting  a  thumb  underneath 
each  suspender  strap  at  the  arm  pit,  announced  in  commanding  tones : 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE  31 

"I  want  to  send  a  message!" 

"Where  to?"  asked  the  young  lady  with  all  the  sweetness  at 
her  command. 

"Any  old  place,"  replied  "Joe"  with  nonchalance,  "But,"  he 
added,  "You  might  as  well  make  it  Allegheny." 

By  this  time  the  young  lady  was  in  spirit  with  the  occasion, 
and  tantalizingly  inquired:  "Pray,  where  is  Allegheny?" 

"What  do  you  think  of  that,  boys?"  asked  "Joe,"  clearly  in- 
dicating his  injured  pride.  "Don't  know  where  Allegheny  is?  Well, 
it's  bounded  on  the  east  by  New  York;  on  the  west  by  Chicago;  on 
the  north  by  Canada  and  on  the  south  by  Florida.  Why,  Allegheny 
is  the  city  that  gave  a  world's  fair  to  St.  Louis.  But  never  mind  the 
message;  permit  me  to  ask  are  you  fond  of  music?" 

"Oh,  my,  yes!"  exclaimed  the  young  lady,  enraptured  at  the  idea. 
"No,"  she  didn't  have  any  preference,  "just  so  it's  music." 

The  invaders  then  lifted  their  voices  to  that  same  old,  soul- 
maddening  screech:  "Bedelia."  They  assaulted  it,  crippled  it,  and 
then  slaughtered  it — and  nobody  mourned,  though  the  station  was 
half-filled  with  passengers.  Most  of  them  stood  upon  the  seats, 
probably  to  rise  above  such  music.  They  applauded  vigorously  but 
could  not  drown  the  horrible  noise.  They  even  laughed — so  does 
the  victim  who  has  to  have  a  tooth  pulled  and  is  helpless  to  resist 
it. 

With  further  suggestion  and  solicitation  upon  the  part  of  the 
audience  they  started  to  break  the  peace  again.  Notwithstanding 
the  fact  that  we  have  had  several  open  and  private  meetings  since,  and 
have  carefully  gone  over  all  the  works  of  foreign  and  native  com- 
posers, we  can  arrive  at  no  reasonable  or  definite  conclusion  as  to 
what  that  second  song  was.  We  still  remain  in  the  darkness  and  bliss 
of  ignorance. 

Occasionally,  for  a  very  brief  time,  two  of  the  participants  car- 
ried the  same  air,  and  when  one  reached  a  part  which  was  most 
familiar  to  him,  he  wanted  to  be  heard,  and  his  voice  rose  up  in 
supreme  command,  and  started  off  like  a  race  horse  until  another 
followed  with  the  enthusiasm  of  a  steam  calliope.  Then  someone 
pitched  his  voice  into  a  beautiful  minor  key — it  must  have  been  a 
night-key,  for  it  was  one  that  minors  should  not  be  permitted  to 
carry.  Then  some  song-bird  wrecked  the  whole  business  with  a  sound 
similar  to  that  made  by  a  circular  saw  striking  a  rusty  nail  only  to 
be  lost  in  a  general  shuffle  of  sharps,  flats,  majors  and  minors  in 
wasteful  extravagance.  Then  there  rose  out  of  the  wreckage  a  sweet 
melodious  voice,  for  a  second — such  a  brief  second — while  the  singer 
was  hastening  through  some  bar  that  was  familiar  to  him,  (tem- 
perance bar  if  you  please).  Then  some  one  chased  him  to  cover  with 


32  A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

a  thunderous  roar  like  the  unloading  of  a  cartload  of  cobblestones 
upon  sheet  iron,  and  just  when  victory  seemed  within  grasp,  a  pass- 
ing freight  train  whistled  and  shrieked  by  in  full  supremacy  and 
conquered  the  howling  dervishes. 

The  listeners  applauded  and  expressed  a  wish  that  the  concert 
(?)  be  prolonged,  but  announcement  was  made  that  it  was  one  of 
the  fundamental  rules  of  the  opera  company  not  to  play  more  than 
one  engagement  in  a  town.  Experience  had  taught  them  that  it 
was  unsafe  to  life  and  limb  to  appear  before  the  same  audience  twice. 
Sir  Burry  further  explained  that  they  had  completely  revolutionized 
music,  and  were  burying  the  old  masters  one  by  one,  and  that  his 
artists  differed  from  all  others  in  one  notable  respect;  that  they 
were  not  merely  spotted  with  music  here  and  there,  but  were  sat- 
urated with  it. 

The  young  lady  was  full  of  praises.  "I  know,"  she  said,  "that 
your  music  is  high-grade.  It  so  delighted  me,  stirred  me,  enraptured 
me  and  moved  me,  that  I  could  have  cried  all  the  time." 

"Cried  for  help?"  suggested  Sir  Greenawalt. 

"Oh  no,"  she  answered,  "you  didn't  need  any.  There  was  volume 
quite  sufficient  to  your  recitals.  When  you  come  again,  the  com- 
bined theatres  of  the  city  will  not  be  sufficient  to  hold  the  audience." 

With  an  entrancing  smile  and  pleasant  bow,  each  member  of 
the  chorus  bid  adieu,  and  stepping  out  on  the  platform  felt  so  smit- 
ten with  pride,  that  each  dived  into  his  pocket  and  pinned  another 
"exchange  badge"  on  his  coat  as  a  personal  reward  for  merit. 

Following  breakfast,  we  boarded  a  street  car  near  the  Colorado 
Springs  for  a  ride  to  Manitou,  a  distance  of  five  miles  west,  passing 
en  route  Colorado  City,  the  first  capital  of  the  State.  Located  di- 
rectly at  the  foot  of  Pike's  Peak,  at  an  elevation  of  6,318  feet,  is 
Manitou.  It  sits  in  the  lap  of  an  amphitheatre  of  mountains  and 
foot-hills,  and  may  truly  be  termed,  the  Switzerland  of  America. 
The  cog-wheel  railroad  which  runs  to  the  summit  of  Pike's  Peak, 
starts  at  Manitou,  and  here  are  located  the  celebrated  medical  Soda, 
Sulphur  and  Iron  Springs. 

Situated  in  the  heart  of  the  town  and  at  the  end  of  the  street 
car  line  are  the  Soda  Springs.  It  is  a  popular  gathering  place  and 
is  visited  by  thousands  of  tourists  annually,  who  come  to  drink  of 
its  refreshing  waters.  We  all  partook  freely,  there  was  plenty  of  it, 
and  it  never  runs  dry. 

The  Sulphur  Springs  have  a  flavor  all  their  own.  Not  only  do 
their  waters  taste  of  minerals,  but  bear  the  perfume  of  several  kinds 
of  groceries  in  solution — such  as  stale  Easter  eggs  and  onions,  that 
have  been  drowned  in  kerosene.  It  bears  a  flavor  of  brimstone,  or 
something  that  would  make  a  blazed  trail  at  night,  all  the  way  up 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE  33 

Pike's  Peak.  It  would  serve  as  an  excellent  weapon  for  revenge. 
If  one  would  drink  a  quart  of  the  sulphur  water  and  breathe  hard 
on  an  enemy,  it  would  produce  blind  staggers ;  two  breaths  on  a  man 
means  a  metallic  casket  for  one. 

At  the  extreme  end  of  Ruxton  Avenue,  we  found  the  Ute  Iron 
Springs;  another  large  effervescing  spring,  but  instead  of  the  spark- 
ling soda,  or  self-pronouncing  sulphur,  we  found  modest,  strength- 
giving  iron  water  springs.  Sir  Gilland  inquired  of  the  attendant 
if  he  was  sure  that  there  were  no  rusty  nails,  old  wash-boilers, 
horse-shoes,  or  other  hardware  at  the  bottom  of  the  spring,  and  was 
assured  to  the  contrary.  He  was  told  of  the  strength-giving  proper- 
ties of  the  water,  and  urged  everyone  to  partake,  to  gain  the  re- 
quired strength  to  climb  Pike's  Peak.  The  Ute  Iron  Springs  re- 
ceived their  name  from  the  tribe  of  Ute  Indians.  Sir  Lee  claims  that 
it  was  the  springs  that  made  the  Indians  red  men,  for  he  explained 
that  they  drank  so  much  iron  water  that  they  became  rusty  inside 
until  it  broke  through  their  skin,  and  gave  them  the  reddish  out- 
ward appearance. 

However,  all  the  mineral  waters  in  the  neighborhood  of  Manitou, 
rank  high  as  a  beverage,  and  many  persons  are  using  them  dur- 
ing the  entire  year.  They  resemble  those  of  Ems,  and  are  beneficial 
to  consumptive,  dyspeptic  and  other  patients. 

The  tour  about  Manitou  was  of  unusual  interest  and  attraction. 
Following  the  road  due  north  from  the  Soda  Springs,  one  enters 
Williams'  Canyon,  a  most  picturesque  gorge.  Its  walls  blend  with 
strata  of  sandstone  and  limestone,  showing  colorings  of  pink,  gray, 
vermillion  and  white.  Above  are  several  hundred  feet  of  limestone, 
in  which  a  number  of  curious  caverns  have  been  discovered,  the 
most  notable  of  which  being  the  Cave  of  the  Winds.  These  caves  are 
three-quarters  of  a  mile  underground,  and  run  directly  through  the 
heart  of  the  mountain.  Here  the  handiwork  of  nature  in  all  its 
charms  and  wonder  is  to  be  seen.  The  "Diamond  Hall"  and  "Crystal 
Palace"  are  the  principal  attractions  in  these  subterranean  chambers. 
The  ceiling  of  "Diamond  Hall"  is  decorated  with  graceful  wreaths 
and  festoons  of  flowery  alabaster,  which  under  the  influence  of  the 
magnesium  light  of  the  guide,  is  beautiful  to  the  extreme,  and  every 
inch  of  wall  sparkles  and  scintillates  every  conceivable  color  and 
shade,  giving  the  effect  of  diamond  Mosaic  work. 

The  Grand  Caverns  are  beautiful  caves  located  two  and  one- 
half  miles  from  Manitou  over  a  magnificent  drive  up  the  famous  Ute 
Pass,  one  of  the  historic  highways  of  the  Rockies.  First  a  mere 
trail  paced  by  the  Indians  in  their  flights  over  the  mountains,  it  became 
a  wagon-road  to  Leadville,  and  yet  serves  as  one  of  the  most  ac- 
cessible passages  over  the  mountains. 

(3) 


34  A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

Presently  we  came  to  the  station  of  the  famous  Cog  Wheel  Rail- 
road which  ascends  a  grade  of  twenty-five  per  cent,  and  reaches 
an  elevation  of  14,147  feet  at  the  summit.  We  gazed  with  interest 
upon  this  mountain  railway,  and  it  seemed  incredible  that  the  train 
which  was  standing  ready  to  pull  out,  could  creep  straight  up  to 
the  mountain  top.  Mr.  C.  W.  Sells  and  Mr.  Benjamin  P.  Wheat, 
lofty  and  elevating  gentlemen,  stood  nearby,  and  stated  it  had  often 
performed  that  very  miracle  and  any  doubt  in  our  minds  was  soon 
dispelled  as  the  odd-looking  locomotive  began  to  enter  upon  its  task. 
The  boiler  end  was  coupled  to  the  coach,  and  the  engine  was  tilted 
sharply  backward,  so  that  it  could  take  up  the  cogs  that  propel 
the  train.  The  coach  was  comfortably  equipped  and  was  composed 
chiefly  of  glass  to  facilitate  observation.  The  seats  are  so  equipped 
as  to  remain  level  regardless  of  the  grades.  The  engine  pushes  the 
car  in  ascending,  and  precedes  it  in  descending;  thus  insuring  com- 
plete control  over  the  coach,  which,  because  of  not  being  coupled 
to  the  locomotive,  can  be  operated  independently. 

There  was  scarcely  room  in  the  one  car  for  our  entire  party, 
but  rather  than  be  separated,  several  of  the  "boys"  sat  upon  the  floor 
of  the  front  platform,  and  bracing  their  feet  against  the  railing, 
lighted  their  pipes,  and  enjoyed  an  unobstructed  view  of  the  sur- 
roundings. 

We  started  upon  our  tour  of  elevation  about  nine  o'clock  in 
the  morning.  Cold  type  could  never  do  justice  in  properly  describ- 
ing the  magnificent  scenic  beauty  of  the  nine  miles  of  road  in 
ascending  Pike's  Peak.  The  constantly  changing  panorama,  the  va- 
ried tints  and  colors,  which  cannot  be  imitated  upon  canvas  by  the 
most  skillful  masters,  form  a  picture  for  the  mind  which  can  only 
be  drawn  through  the  eye. 

Engelmann's  Canyon,  formed  by  the  sides  of  Manitou  and 
Hiawatha  Mountains,  is  the  starting  point  of  this  novel  railway. 
Rushing  swiftly  through  the  canyon,  and  flowing  beside  us,  then 
appearing  far  below  over  massive  boulders  and  forming  innumerable 
cascades,  is  Ruxton  Creek ;  a  sparkling  mountain  stream  whose  source 
lies  in  the  snow  that  crowns  the  mountain  top. 

Passing  into  the  canyon  to  the  left,  we  came  upon  Shady  Springs, 
hidden  under  the  slope  of  the  mountain  upon  which  rest  Gog  and 
Magog.  To  the  right  is  the  "Lone  Fisherman,"  who  patiently 
fishes  from  the  top  of  the  northern  wall  of  the  canyon.  As  we  en- 
ter the  Grand  Pass,  we  catch  a  glimpse  of  Echo  Falls,  named  after 
Echo  Rocks,  above  whose  high  walls  resound  the  dashing  waters  of 
the  canyons,  clearly  and  distinctly.  Just  beyond,  we  can  observe 
National  Creek  tunnel,  an  arched  waterway  formed  by  fallen  boulders. 
"Hanging  Rock"  and  Frog  Rock"  are  passed  before  we  enter  "Ar- 


PIKE'S    PEAK     REGION. 

I — Cog  Road  on  Pike's  Peak.  2-8-14 — Pike's  Peak  from  Colorado  Springs.  3-6— Ascending  Pike's  Peak.  4— Above 
the  Half-way  House,  Pike's  Peak.  5 — Primrose.  7 — Around  the  Corner.  9 — Spring  Opening  of  Pike's  Peak  Cog-wheel 
Road.  10 — White  Poppy.  n  —  Mariposo  Lilly.  12 — Half-way  House.  13 — Windy  Point,  Pike's  Peak.  15 — Pike's 
Peak  from  Pilot  Knob.  16 — Phantom  Curve.  17 — Vista  of  Pike's  Peak.  18 — Cog  Road  Station,  Manitou.  19 — Cog 
Road  Locomotive.  20 — The  Trail.  21— Past  Timber  Line. 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE  35 

tists'  Glen,"  from  where  a  good  view  of  "Cameron's  Cone"  (10,695 
feet)  and  the  Garden  of  the  Gods  may  be  had. 

Curious  shaped  rocks  stand  out  in  bold  relief  from  the  moun- 
tain sides.  They  have  been  christened  with  names  appropriate  to 
their  conformation.  The  "Plum  Pudding,"  "Turtle,"  and  "Punch," 
are  some  that  we  passed  in  our  ride  until  we  came  within  vision  of 
Minnehaha  Falls. 

At  this  point,  about  two  miles  from  the  starting  place,  the  steep 
mountain  slopes  begin  to  rise  to  their  greatest  magnitudes.  Man 
becomes  dwarfed  in  the  sublimity  of  the  scene.  The  specks  that 
indicate  villages  below,  the  rivers  in  the  valleys  which  look  like 
slender  threads,  the  overhanging  clouds  which  seem  so  near,  and  the 
massive,  majestic,  arrogant  monuments  of  stone  which  spring  up 
on  every  side,  leave  the  spectator  in  full  realization  of  his  own  in- 
significance and  a  fuller  appreciation  of  the  marvels  of  nature  than 
he  has  ever  before  enjoyed.  , 

A  few  hundred  feet  further  and  one  again  stands  face  to  face 
with  civilization  in  the  form  of  a  group  of  Swiss  cottages  occupied 
by  pleasure  seekers.  "Lizzard  Rock,"  "Pinnacle  Rock,"  "The  Devil's 
Slide,"  "Woodland  Park,"  "Elk's  Head,"  and  the  "Flueride  Gold 
Mine,"  are  passed  as  we  suddenly  come  upon  the  Half-Way  House, 
a  comfortable  little  hotel  situated  in  a  beautiful  grove  at  the  foot  of 
"Grand  View  Rock,"  three  and  one-half  miles  from  Manitou.  This 
is  a  popular  stopping  place  for  parties  ascending  the  peak,  and  to 
rest,  to  observe,  and  to  wonder. 

As  we  again  proceeded,  we  passed  through  the  ragged  walls  of 
"Hell's  Gate"  and  entered  the  verdant  Ruxton  and  Aspen  Parks, 
over  which  stand  Bald  and  Sheep  Mountains.  Then  for  little  more 
than  two  miles  we  traveled  over  a  comparatively  level  stretch,  get- 
ting an  excellent  view  of  "Grand  Old  Mountain."  Here  our  locomo- 
tive makes  a  short  stop  to  replenish  its  supply  of  water,  for  the 
longest  and  steepest  incline  on  the  road  is  just  ahead.  The  grade 
is  straight  up  the  side  of  the  mountain  at  an  angle  similar  to  that 
formed  by  a  ladder  placed  against  the  side  of  a  house.  It  is  so  sharp 
that  one  dare  not  look  at  it  long  in  realization  that  it  is  to  be  as- 
cended. 

As  we  ascend,  the  mountains  to  the  east  seem  to  sink  until  they 
appear  as  mere  foot-hills  and  the  valleys  and  rocks  beneath  become 
more  extended  in  view.  From  the  well-named  "Inspiration  Point," 
we  see  far  below  a  glacial  lake  of  110  acres ;  and  glacial  rocks 
marked  by  the  action  of  ice  in  ages  past;  Mt.  Baldy;  Mt.  Garfield; 
Bear  Creek  Canyon  and  the  Southern  Mountains. 

After  passing  "Timber  Line,"  which  has  an  elevation  of  11,578 
feet,  we  cross  a  great  field  of  broken  rock,  spotted  here  and  there 


36  A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

with  soil  enough  to  bear  moss  and  various  Alpine  plants,  and  where, 
in  certain  seasons,  there  grow  a  profusion  of  small  flowers  which 
one  would  hardly  expect  to  find  at  so  high  an  altitude. 

At  this  point  a  lady,  a  stranger,  passed  through  the  car  with 
a  small  basket  on  her  arm,  offering  flowers  for  sale.  The  bouquets 
had  a  rare  fragrance,  especially  when  they  were  moist.  She  called 
them  "wild  forget-me-nots"  and  claimed  to  have  plucked  them  from 
the  mountain  side  amid  snow  and  rocks.  She  was  pleasant  and 
talkative,  relating  an  interesting  story.  In  answer  to  a  question  put 
by  Sir  Burry,  who  seemed  deeply  interested,  the  stranger  declared 
that  she  was  married. 

As  we  reached  Windy  Point  we  caught  the  first  glimpse  of  the 
far  west,  as  it  rolls  itself  out  from  the  Rocky  Mountains  to  the 
shores  of  the  Pacific.  With  renewed  effort,  the  little  engine  plowed 
its  way  up  still  sharper  inclines  until,  a  short  time  later,  we  reached 
the  very  summit  of  Pike's  Peak,  and  triumphantly  took  our  stand 
upon  the  very  head  of  the  majestic  monster. 

The  whole  world  seemed  before  us !  Villages,  towns,  cities,  hills, 
valleys,  rivers,  lakes,  and  even  mountains  and  clouds  found  place 
in  the  picture  which  was  spread  out  before  us.  Rare,  indeed,  would 
be  the  art  that  could  picture  to  the  soul  the  unapproachable  magni- 
tude of  the  view,  unaided  by  the  sense  of  sight.  A  mighty  panorama 
of  60,000  square  miles  was  accessible  to  the  human  eye. 

To  the  east,  the  buffalo  plains  are  ribbed  with  streams  and  dot- 
ted with  flowering  fields,  while  villages  and  cities  mark  their  bor- 
ders. Colorado  Springs,  Manitou  and  the  Garden  of  the  Gods  lie  at 
our  feet  like  diminutive  checker-boards  spread  out  among  fields  of 
flowers  and  foliage. 

To  the  south  lie  Seven  Lakes;  the  Raton  Mountain  range  of 
New  Mexico;  the  famous  Spanish  Peaks,  and  the  cities  of  Pueblo, 
Florence,  Canon  City  and  Altman  (the  highest  mining  camp  in 
Colorado),  and  in  the  far  distance,  the  fertile  Arkansas  Valley  winds 
itself  among  the  hills.  Cripple  Creek  and  Bull  Hill  appear  but  a 
stone's  throw,  while  the  many  mine  settlements  and  web  of  rail- 
ways are  plainly  and  clearly  seen. 

To  the  west  is  the  Sangre  de  Christo  range  protruding  its  glisten- 
ing crests  above  the  clouds  and  spreading  out  its  sheet  of  perpetual 
snow.  Buffalo,  Ouray,  Harvard,  Yale,  Princeton,  Holy  Cross  and 
Elbert  Peaks  proudly  raise  their  heads  at  a  distance  varying  from 
60  to  150  miles  away.  To  the  north  are  visible  the  abyss ;  Gray's 
and  Long's  peaks — the  farthest  north  of  any  we  saw  in  the  Conti- 
nental Divide;  and  Denver,  Castle  Rock  and  Manitou  Park. 

As  the  wayfarer  takes  his  stand  on  the  crest  of  Pike's  Peak  and 
beholds  the  handiwork  of  the  Master  before  him,  a  respect  born  of 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE  37 

reverence  saturates  the  soul.  Word  nor  picture  has  never,  and  can 
never,  convey  to  the  human  mind  such  full  appreciation  of  the  system- 
atic provisions  of  nature  to  the  dwellers  of  the  earth,  as  are  made 
known  to  him  who  stands  upon  the  sublime  heights  of  Pike's  Peak, 
and  sees  and  realizes  the  handiwork  of  God  which  man  has  worked 
into  his  own  benefaction.  Cold  type  or  words  fail  to  carry  such 
impressing  influences  as  the  Creator's  own  achievement  through  na- 
ture, as  it  lies  like  the  open  pages  of  history,  at  the  very  feet  of  the 
pilgrim  on  the  heights  of  Pike's  Peak. 

As  we  stood  upon  the  very  apex  of  this  mountain  emperor,  we 
beheld  a  vast  portion  of  this  little  world  in  unique  circumstantiality 
of  detail — saw  it  as  the  bird  sees  it — and  all  reduced  to  the  smallest 
scale,  but  as  sharply  worked  out  and  finished  as  a  steel  engraving. 
The  numerous  toy  cities  with  their  tiny  spires  projecting,  appeared 
as  the  playthings  of  children  who  had  abandoned  them  for  a  day. 
The  forest  tracts  were  diminished  and  softened  by  distance  as  cush- 
ions of  moss,  while  the  rivers  shone  and  glistened  under  the  sun's 
rays  until  they  appeared  as  strings  of  pearl.  The  smaller  bodies  of 
water  relieved  the  general  conformation  with  the  beauty  of  a  blue 
teardrop  which  had  fallen  and  lodged  in  some  slight  depression 
among  the  moss-beds.  The  diminutive  trains  were  seen  gliding 
along  between  cities,  seemingly  taking  a  mighty  time  to  travel  the 
distance,  for  magnificent  distances  appeared  as  but  yards,  and  it 
looked  as  though  one  might  span  what  was  100  miles  with  the  out- 
stretched arms. 

The  world  beneath  us  was  stretched  out  like  an  enormous  "re- 
lief map"  with  hills,  valleys,  forests  and  streams  pictured  in  their 
miniature  and  natural  color.  This  was  the  picture  we  saw  stretched 
out  before  us.  Distance  softened  it;  the  sun  glorified  it;  strong 
contrasts  heightened  the  effect,  and  over  and  above  it  all,  a  drowsing 
air  of  repose  spiritualized  it  and  likened  it  unto  a  beautiful  estray 
from  the  other  and  more  mysterious  worlds  we  visit  in  dreams. 

The  cares  and  responsibilities  of  this  life  make  it  the  privilege 
of  but  a  few  of  the  great  human  family  to  know  the  sensation  of 
looking  from  a  mountain  top  over  thousands  of  miles  of  the  earth's 
domains.  To  those  who  can  enjoy  this  feast  of  vision,  it  inscribes 
an  indelible  recollection  upon  the  mind,  and  the  magnificence  ot  the 
spectacle  leaves  a  lasting  impression  that  will  never  fade  from  mem- 
ory. In  the  ages  gone,  and  those  to  come,  the  revelations  from  the 
heights  of  Pike's  Peak,  will  remain  among  one  of  the  sacred  prrvileges 
of  man,  and  of  those  that  may  come  and  go,  none  will  ever  carry 
away  a  more  gracious  appreciation  than  did  the  pilgrims  of  our  party. 

One  might  suppose  that  to  be  carried  literally  out  of  the  world 
to  the  heights  of  Pike's  Peak  would  be  foregoing,  for  a  time,  all  the 


38  A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

conventionalities  of  the  earth.  But  this  is  not  true.  American  en- 
terprise will  not  be  thwarted,  and  by  turning  about  from  the  grand- 
eurs that  lie  beneath,  one  finds  conventionalities  upon  the  peik  that 
become  unconventional  because  of  their  peculiar  surroundings.  On 
the  top  of  the  peak  is  a  postofnce — the  highest  in  the  world.  Here 
members  of  our  party  hastily  jotted  a  few  lines  to  relatives  and 
friends  that  they  might  experience  the  sensation  of  receiving  a 
message  from  the  clouds,  and  note  the  post-mark  of  "Summit,  Pike's 
Peak,  August  23,  1904." 

On  the  mountain  top  there  is  a  telegraph  station,  which  also 
has  the  distinction  of  being  the  "highest  in  the  world."  We  patron- 
ized the  operator  in  sending  greetings  home. 

The  "Summit  House"  is  like  an  oasis  on  a  barren  desert.  Built 
of  ragged  rock  cleaved  from  the  very  peak  itself,  it  offers  within 
the  comfortable  glow  of  a  huge  stove,  while  hot  coffee  and  bulky 
doughnuts  touch  the  heart  of  the  wayfarer  through  his  stomach. 

Terrific  winds  sweep  the  summit,  and  although  thermometers 
registered  90  degrees  at  Manitou  before  we  started,  it  was  very  cold 
on  the  peak.  "Vic"  had  previously  cautioned  us  to  take  an  ample 
supply  of  wraps  and  overcoats  before  ascending,  and  we  found  this 
advice  of  value.  The  barometer  on  the  summit  stands  about  17  inches 
while  water  boils  at  184  degrees  Fahrenheit.  These  grossly  abnormal 
conditions  cast  a  strange,  faint  and  weak  sensation  over  the  pilgrims 
for  a  time;  although  there  were  very  few  who  actually  felt  ill.  The 
ladies  were  particularly  brave  in  facing  the  new  elements. 

An  amusing  and  most  unusual  pastime  for  an  August  day  was  a 
snowball  warfare  among  the  pilgrims  on  the  summit  of  the  peak, 
after  leaving  Manitou  under  a  boiling  sun  several  hours  before. 
Through  the  mantle  of  snow  on  the  mountain  top,  protruded  a  sea 
of  ragged  rocks  covering  the  whole  summit  as  if  created  by  a  series 
of  blasts.  As  we  stood  on  the  summit  in  bold  defiance  of  the  raging 
winds,  we  became  enveloped  from  time  to  time,  by  the  shifting  fleecy 
clouds.  Standing  as  near  to  the  sun  as  mortal  dare  tread  in  this 
country,  we  were  at  once  in  close  communion  with  the  swiftly  but 
silently  shifting  clouds,  which  at  times  veiled  the  view  in  transitory 
mist  and  then  wafted  high  above  and  sped  ever  onward. 

Protruding  into  these  very  clouds,  rises  the  United  States  Sig- 
nal Station  from  the  very  apex  of  the  peak.  This  is,  of  course,  the 
highest  observatory  in  the  country;  and  the  roof,  which  is  platformed 
and  protected  by  railings,  affords  a  wonderful  view-point.  Regard- 
less of  the  terrific  winds,  the  pilgrims  would  not  be  denied  the  privi- 
lege of  surveying  mother  earth  from  this  pinnacle. 

It  would  even  be  difficult  for  imagination  to  concede  that  any- 
thing mortal  could  add  dignity  or  impressiveness  to  Pike's  Peak, 


PIKE'S     PEAK     REGION. 

1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-14 — Summit  of  Pike's  Peak,  altitude  14, 147  feet.      9 — Columbine.        ic 
Triangle  Cryptic  Rite  Masons,  Summit  of  Pike's  Peak.      13 — Mamma's  Baby. 


Yucca,      ri — Anemone.      12 — 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE  39 

but  none  can  gainsay  the  dramatic  and  romantic  effect  of  the  sil- 
houette of  Sir  Oscar  Schulze  as  he  stood  in  bold  contrast  to  the  fleecy 
clouds  behind  him,  when  he  took  his  position  on  the  top  of  the 
signal  station.  Oscar,  who  had  been  at  once  a  father  and  brother 
to  the  pilgrims,  in  all  that  the  terms  imply,  is  a  man  of  soldierly 
bearing.  Clad  in  a  heavy  military  ulster  with  flowing  cape,  he  as- 
cended to  the  top  of  the  signal  station  with  several  pilgrims.  As 
he  gazed  upon  the  endless  view  stretched  out  before  him,  he  point- 
ed in  dramatic  fashion  to  some  object  of  interest  in  the  valley,  with 
the  attitude  of  a  general  noting  some  military  movement  on  the 
battle  field.  As  his  cape  and  ulster-clad  soldierly  figure  stood  out 
in  bold  relief  against  the  clouds  and  skies,  it  appeared  as  if  Na- 
poleon had  risen  again,  and  forgetful  of  St.  Helena,  was  once  more 
a  leader  of  men,  in  supreme  authority. 

Even  as  we  gazed,  we  unfurled  our  banner,  the  Stars  and  Stripes, 
to  the  breeze  with  a  rousing  cheer  that  was  born  from  patriotic  hearts. 
The  indifference  shown  the  nation's  flag  on  terra  firma  is  lost  when 
one  enters  strange  and  unusual  places,  and  we  paid  homage  to  our 
colors  with  uplifted  voices  while  the  thrill  of  true  American  patriot- 
ism shook  our  physical  frames  like  aspens  in  the  wind,  and  inspired 
our  souls  with  loyal  love  for  our  country. 

We  found  special  pride  as  we  stood  upon  the  summit  of  the 
mount,  in  the  fact  that  the  first  party  who  ever  ascended  Pike's  Peak 
were  Pittsburghers.  In  1819,  Major  S.  H.  Long  was  sent  by  Secre- 
tary of  War,  John  C.  Calhoun,  in  charge  of  an  "expedition  from  Pitts- 
burgh to  the  Rocky  Mountains."  On  July  13th,  of  that  year,  the 
party  encamped  near  the  present  site  of  Colorado  Springs,  from 
which  place  Dr.  Edwin  James,  with  three  unknown  men  and  a 
volunteer  named  Harris,  started  to  ascend.  The  summit  was  reached 
on  the  evening  of  July  14th.  The  first  woman  to  stand  on  the  sum- 
mit, was  Mrs.  James  H.  Holmes,  who  reached  the  top  on  August 
5th,  1858.  The  Peak  derives  its  name  from  General  Zebulon  Pike, 
who  discovered  the  noble  mountain  while  leading  an  exploration 
expedition  in  November  1806. 

When  the  time  for  our  departure  arrived,  we  cast  a  last  long- 
ing glance  over  the  horizon,  in  full  realization  of  the  fact  that  we 
had  witnessed  the  grandest  scenic  panorama  visible  from  any  ac- 
cessible point.  With  a  parting  look,  the  picture  was  indelibly  in- 
scribed upon  our  minds  with  an  appreciation  that  the  years  cannot 
wipe  out. 

We  entered  the  car  with  complete  freedom  from  the  fears  we 
had  entertained  upon  the  ascent.  As  the  train  started  down  the 
sharp  incline  there  was  havoc  among  the  party.  Many  uncon- 
sciously threw  their  weight  to  the  rear  in  an  effort  to  retain  equi- 


40  A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

librium.  This,  of  course,  was  of  little  avail.  Memories  of  sliding 
down  banisters  in  childhood,  were  vividly  brought  back  to  mind, 
but  the  physique  could  not  accommodate  itself  to  these  conditions 
so  well  as  in  the  early  days. 

Occasionally,  a  few  acres  of  almost  level  road  afforded  us  a  few 
moments  of  comfortable  breathing,  but  in  a  moment  we  would  turn 
a  corner  and  see  a  long  steep  line  of  rail  stretching  down  below  us, 
and  the  comfort  was  at  an  end.  The  locomotive  knew  no  fear,  and 
never  paused  or  slackened  its  speed  upon  approaching  these  sharp 
descents,  but  kept  calmly  and  relentlessly  to  its  task,  made  a  sud- 
den bow,  and  went  smoothly  gliding  downstairs. 

It  was  wildly  exhilarating  to  slide  along  the  edge  of  the  precipices 
and  look  straight  down  into  the  far-reaching  valleys.  There  was 
much  curiosity  to  learn  how  the  train  would  stop  at  the  station 
upon  the  steep  incline.  We  were  anxious  to  learn  the  method  em- 
ployed. The  solution  lacked  every  element  of  mysteriousness.  The 
train  simply  stopped.  That  was  all  there  was  to  it.  Then  it  moved 
on  in  the  even  tenor  of  its  way,  and  went  sliding  down  again. 

Here  and  there  we  caught  a  glimpse  of  the  "trail"  in  our  descent. 
Upon  it  we  saw  men  on  horseback,  burroback  and  afoot.  There  is 
an  incentive  and  charm  in  going  up,  ever  up,  toward  the  goal.  Those 
on  foot  are  armed  with  a  stout  staff  taking  their  time,  and  choosing 
their  own  fanciful  route.  There  can  be  no  more  profitable  recrea- 
tion than  the  glorification  of  conquering  Pike's  Peak,  and  few  pleas- 
ures can  be  compared  with  that  of  the  tourist  who  stands  upon  the 
top  of  the  mountain  monarch. 

A<n  unusual  incident  which  the  passenger  enjoys  in  the  descent 
from  the  peak,  is  an  optical  delusion.  Trees,  houses,  shrubbery 
and  every  standing  object  seem  to  have  fallen  into  oblique  position. 
All  appear  to  be  standing  awry,  so  much  so,  that  the  cottages  ap- 
pear to  be  on  the  verge  of  complete  collapse. 

Gradually  we  acquired  absolute  confidence  in  the  locomotive 
and  relaxed  our  physical  efforts  to  hold  it  back.  The  "boys"  on  the 
platform  lighted  their  pipes  again  with  every  assurance  of  security, 
and  again  lapsed  into  the  jubilant  and  care-begone  spirit  which  marked 
our  pilgrimage  from  start  to  finish.  As  we  descended  gradually 
but  surely,  the  whole  world  seemed  to  flit  by  with  us  upon  the  in- 
spection stand,  inspecting  the  world  on  the  wing.  There  was  not 
a  breeze  or  gust  of  dust  to  interfere  with  our  vision.  We  drank  in 
the  moving  picture  with  uninterrupted  thought — even  Sir  Gilchrist 
forgot  for  a  time  the  "girl  he  left  behind." 

During  one  of  the  stops  a  lady  boarded  the  train  and  cried  out 
the  announcement  that  she  had  the  "Pike's  Peak  Daily  News"  for 
sale.  This  is  a  paper  published  on  the  summit,  and  calls  itself  the 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE  41 

"most  elevated"  publication  on  earth.     It  gives  evidence  of  the  lofty 
strides  of  journalism.    It  contained  in  brief,  the  following: 

Pike's  Peak  Dally 

PUBLISHED    DAILY    ON     PIKE'S      PEAK. 
Altitude,  14.147  feet. 

The  most  "elevated"  publication  on   Earth. 

O'jntains  daily  the  names  of  every  arrival  on 
the  Summit.  The  official  newspaper  of  the 
M.  A  P.  P.  Railroad.  

C.  E.  TSCHUDI,  Publisher 
Postoflice  Address  :    Maniton,  Colorado. 

VOLUME    8.  i  : NUMBER    285 

TUESDAY,      AUGUST    23,     1904. 
AKR1VAL.8    ON    PIKE'S     PEAK 


The  following  distinguished  ladies  and  gentle- 
men registered  on  top  of  sight-seeing  old 
Pike's  Peak  today,  via  th*  picturesque  hod 
soenic  Cog  Wheel  Eouto: 

Foronoou  arrivals  on  the  Summit  : 
FIRST    SECTION. 

This  is  a  special  of  Commandery  No.  35,  K.  T.. 
Allegheny  City,  Pa.,  en  route  to  the  coast,  tray" 
•ling  in  their  own  special  Pullmans,  with  com" 
niissary  and  all  the  conveniences  and  luxuries 
of  life.  The  jolliest  and  most  representative 
crowd  of  Americans  that  has  ascended  the  Peak 
iu  a  thousand  years.  Here  they  are: 
Hiss  Gustie  L  Hilleric1 


With  a  relentless  puff  —  puff  —  puff  —  the  engine  continues  its  de- 
scent, grasping  the  cogs  to  retard  its  flight.  "Jack"  was  of  the  opin- 
ion that  the  tracks  had  been  recently  oiled,  and  that  they  would 
serve  as  an  excellent  lightning  rod  to  the  summit  of  Pike's  Peak. 
Before  reaching  Manitou  we  crossed  a  bridge  whose  framework 
stretched  over  a  gorge  and  shot  across  the  dizzy  air  like  a  stray 
spider-web  strand.  One  has  little  difficulty  in  enumerating  his  sins 
while  the  train  creeps  down  this  bridge,  and  repentance  is  general. 
Even  the  young  lady  who  dropped  a  snowball  down  the  back  of 
the  writer's  neck  plead  guilty  and  asked  for  mercy. 

Upon  arriving  at  our  destination,  we  sought  the  Iron  Springs 
Hotel  where  we  indulged  with  a  vim  in  a  satisfying  luncheon  while 
we  rehearsed  our  experiences  of  the  morning.  In  the  midst  of  a 
general  conversation,  some  one  was  heard  to  remark  to  Sir  John 
Bader:  "John,  you  act  as  though  you  were  starving!" 


42  A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

"Act!"  he  repeated  in  tones  of  astonishment.  "Don't  you  know 
the  difference  between  acting  and  the  real  thing?"  It  was  the  genuine 
article  of  appetite  in  large  consignments,  with  all  of  us. 

After  luncheon  we  strolled  about  the  hotel  grounds  viewing  the 
flowers,  shrubbery,  and  an  enchanting  bit  of  landscape  gardening. 
The  guests  of  the  hotel  soon  became  acquainted  with  our  party, 
after  first  taking  a  few  shots  at  us  with  their  cameras.  Finally,  as 
a  compromise,  we  gathered  in  a  group  upon  the  lawn,  and  had  a 
picture  taken  "collectively."  Previously  we  had  been  "taken  "  as 
individuals,  walking,  talking,  standing,  running,  and  in  all  manner 
of  unconventional  poses.  One  might  believe  that  the  amateur  photog- 
raphers considered  us  some  rare  specie  of  the  mountain  tribes. 

The  hotel  proprietor  was  most  agreeable.  He  invited  several 
of  the  Sir  Knights  into  the  secret  confines  of  his  private  apart- 
ments where  he  proved  himself  an  attentive  host. 

Tallyhos  and  carriages  were  in  waiting  and  soon  we  were  ready 
for  a  drive  through  the  "Garden  of  the  Gods."  The  guests  of  the 
hostelry  gathered  on  the  lawn  and  veranda  and  waved  their  handker- 
chiefs and  cheered  us  until  we  had  driven  out  of  sight. 

As  we  rattled  along  cheerily,  the  ladies  viewed  the  beautiful  sur- 
rounding country  from  beneath  their  parasols,  which  only  partially 
shielded  them  from  the  blazing  sun.  The  driver  beguiled  the  way 
with  amusing  and  instructive  conversation  until  we  arrived  at  the 
gateway  of  the  "Garden  of  the  Gods."  It  consists  of  two  enormous 
masses  of  red  sandstone,  330  feet  high.  Between  them  was  a  small- 
er rock  which  divides  the  passageway  in  two.  The  rock  to  the 
right  resembles  a  huge  camel  in  kneeling  position. 

Behind  the  rock,  a  magnificent  panorama  unfolds  itself,  while 
immediately  through  the  "Gate,"  Pike's  Peak  is  seen  rising  in  majes- 
tic grandeur.  Much  of  the  charm  of  the  scene  is  due  to  the  numerous 
contrasts  of  color.  We  passed  through  the  "Gateway,"  and  entered 
the  valley  of  wonders. 

In  a  strange,  wierd  solitude,  nature  has  perpetuated  peculiar 
freaks  of  sculpture  and  feats  of  architecture.  Quaint  and  grotesque 
suggestions  of  living  forms  (some  of  which  have  received  appro- 
priate designations)  rose  from  out  of  the  rocks  about  us.  Perhaps 
the  giants  of  old  had  used  the  garden  for  their  playground,  and  left 
their  toys  behind  when  the  angels  came  and  christened  it  the  "Garden 
of  the  Gods." 

In  our  tour  of  inspection,  we  arrive  before  the  famous  "Balanced 
Rock."  It  stands  upon  the  summit  of  a  ridge  some  50  feet  above  the 
surrounding  country.  The  rock  itself  is  about  70  feet  high  and 
weighs,  approximately,  500  tons.  This  gigantic  mass  of  rock  is 
cunningly  balanced,  though  slightly  tilted  upon  a  mere  point,  and 


GARDEN    OF   THE   GODS. 

i — Gateway,  Garden  of  the  Gods  (Pike's  Peak  seen  through  the  Gate).  2 — The  Three  Graces.  3 — Cathedral 
Spires.  4 — Bear  and  Seal  (Rock  formation).  5 — Rainbow  Falls.  6. — Major  Dome  (200  feet  high).  7 — 
Manitou,  Col.  8 — Balanced  Rock.  9 — Garden  of  the  Gods. 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE  43 

has  remained  in  such  position  for  centuries.  The  surface  in  contact 
with  the  under  rock  is  very  small  and  the  strength  of  a  mere  man 
applied  to  the  under  edge  is  sufficient  to  change  its  center  of  gravity. 

As  soon  as  the  astonishment  which  this  phenomenon  cast  over  us 
had  abated  we  anxiously  inquired  how  and  whence  the  stone  origi- 
nated. Was  it  elevated  to  its  unique  position  by  human  hands? 
Was  it  the  agency  of  nature  that  set  it  upon  its  frail  and  slender 
pivot?  From  our  experience  in  viewing  mountain  masses  with  geo- 
logical eyes,  we  readily  discovered  that  the  only  chisel  ever  employed 
upon  the  balanced  rock  was  the  tooth  of  time,  and  the  elements  the 
only  workmen. 

Pursuing  our  route,  we  come  face  to  face  with  the  "Cathedral 
Spires" — high  and  interesting  columns  of  red  sandstone,  attain- 
ing an  elevation  of  200  feet.  They  greatly  resemble  in  shape  church 
spires  and  compose  one  of  the  chief  attractions  in  the  "Garden  of  the 
Gods." 

The  "Three  Graces"  are  also  of  great  interest  to  the  wanderer 
in  the  garden.  They  consist  of  three  broad,  flat  slabs  and  appear 
to  have  been  turned  edgeways  by  some  prehistoric  upheaval.  Odd 
and  curiously-shaped  creations  of  stone  spring  out  of  the  ground 
on  all  sides.  Each  has  a  designation  peculiar  to  its  formation.  The 
"Statue  of  Liberty,"  "Dolphin,"  "Lion,"  "Griffin,"  "Bear  and  Seal," 
"Kissing  Camels,"  "Toad,"  "Toad  Stools,"  "Greyhound's  Head," 
"Old  Man's  Wine  Cellar,"  "Sea  Lion,"  "Washerwoman,"  "Punch  and 
Judy,"  "Nun,"  "Scotchman,"  and  many  other  oddly  named  monu- 
ments of  time  give  outline  to  figures  after  which  they  have  been  named. 

At  the  top  of  the  pass  we  turn  out  and  away  from  the  "Garden 
of  the  Gods."  The  train  of  carriages  plodded  on  in  its  slow  way, 
and  we  looked  back  with  a  sigh  of  farewell  as  we  observed  the  colossal 
and  forever-open  "Gateway"  disappearing  in  the  rear.  We  half  fan- 
cied that  the  veiled  "Statue  of  Liberty"  bowed  her  head  in  the  sun- 
shine and  the  ''Sea  Lion"  howled  a  parting  salute  as  we  drove  out  of 
sight.  We  had  no  sea  lions  aboard  to  return  the  salute,  but  ever 
anxious  to  relieve  any  contingency  Sir  Beckert  brought  forth  a  bugle 
and  sounded  a  farewell  that  could  leave  no  doubt  but  that  the  stone 
figures  in  the  garden  turned  stone  deaf. 

Arriving  at  Colorado  Springs  station,  several  members  of  the 
party  decided  to  continue  the  drive  to  the  North  and  South  Cheyenne 
Canyon  and  the  Seven  Falls,  located  five  miles  out  of  Colorado 
Springs.  Those  who  made  the  trip  were  amply  repaid.  The  North 
Cheyenne  Canyon  shelters  numerous  cascades,  wonderful  rock  for- 
mations and  innumerable  striking  and  impressive  creations. 

The  South  Cheyenne  Canyon  was  admitted  to  be  the  most  beau- 


44  A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

tiful  and  inspiring  resort  near  nature's  own  heart.  We  found  our 
inspection  delightful,  romantic  and  most  satisfying. 

Continuing,  we  arrived  at  a  point  where  towering  masses  of  rock 
1200  feet  in  height  swung  out  before  us  on  the  one  side,  while  the  tur- 
bulent mountain  stream  winds  its  way  through  the  canyon  on  the 
other.  The  scene  is  picturesque,  and  the  blending  colors  that  coat 
the  mountain  side  and  canyon  lend  grandeur. 

Pursuing  our  course  we  reach  the  "Pillar  of  Hercules."  They 
consist  of  two  massive  rocks,  upwards  of  300  feet  in  height  which 
stand  side  by  side  near  the  entrance  to  the  "Seven  Falls,"  as  senti- 
nals  guarding  the  approach. 

Rounding  a  magnificent  curve,  we  suddenly  came  upon  a  beauti- 
ful cascade,  falling  in  all  234  feet  in  seven  leaps.  We  ascended  a  lofty 
stairway  at  the  side  of  the  falls,  and  at  the  top  find  the  waters  leap- 
ing and  bursting  over  the  rapids,  as  though  conscious  of  the  destiny 
that  awaits  them.  Gradually  the  waters  wind  through  a  cliff  be- 
tween lofty  precipices  and  are  hurled  over  a  succession  of  falls. 

The  snow-made  waters,  in  their  mad  leaps  of  beauty,  laugh  as 
they  have  laughed  for  ages  in  sunlight  and  moonlight.  On!  On! 
Ever  on,  they  rush,  leap  after  leap,  as  a  fawn  sprinting  from  rock  to 
rock.  Spirits  seem  to  dance  upon  the  frothing  foam  of  the  many 
cascades  formed  with  infinite  delicacy,  .but  great  variety.  As 
the  sparkling  waters  dash  over  the  ragged  rock  pell-mell,  the  cas- 
cades jostle  and  bruise  one  another  until  they  disappear  in  vapor,  in 
foam,  in  uproar,  and  in  clouds. 

At  the  top  of  the  stairway  on  the  Cheyenne  Mountains,  is  lo- 
cated the  grave  of  the  authoress,  Helen  Hunt  Jackson,  who  died  in 
1885.  Everywhere  about  the  trees  and  rocks  visitors  have  left  their 
cards — some  dating  back  many  years. 

As  we  cautiously  decended  the  stairway,  we  were  overcome  by 
many  sensations — we  were  dazed,  made  dizzy,  confused  and  charmed. 
Arriving  at  the  bottom  we  entered  our  carriage  and  as  we  sped  away 
we  took  a  backward  glimpse  of  the  charming  and  unusual  picture  as 
presented  by  the  Seven  Falls  and  the  Cheyenne  Canyons. 

The  route  to  our  "home  and  camping  ground"  was  gone  over 
in  comparatively  short  time.  However,  on  the  way  we  stopped  to 
witness  a  remarkable  and  glorious  sunset.  Round  the  horizon  ran 
a  thin  mist  with  a  brilliant  depth  of  coloring.  To  the  east,  a  blue 
gauze  seemed  to  cover  the  valley  as  it  sank  into  night,  while  the  in- 
tervening ridges  rose  with  increasing  distinctness. 

The  valley  itself  was  flooded  with  an  exquisitely  delicate  light. 
A  few  fleecy  clouds  tinted  in  gold,  pale  salmon  and  sapphire,  passed 
rapidly  over  the  empurpled  mountain  range.  The  great  shadow  of 
Pike's  Peak  spread  itself,  cone-like,  across  the  valley ;  the  blue  mists 


COLORADO   SPRINGS'    BEAUTY  SPOTS. 

I — Stratton  Park,  Cheyenne  Canyon.  2 — South  Cheyenne  Canyon.  3 — Williams  Canyon.  4-5 — Ute  Pass 
and  Rainbow  Falls.  6 — Cripple  Creek.  7 — Soda  Springs.  8 — Black  Crags,  Ute  Pass.  9 — Seven  Palls.  10 — 
Denver,  Col.  u — Iron  Springs.  12 — Hell  Gate,  Hagerman  Pass.  13 — Pillars  of  Hercules. 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE  45 

were  quenched;  the  distant  mountains  glowed  like  fairy  hills  for  a 
few  moments,  and  the  sun  poising  itself  like  a  great  globe  of  fire  in 
the  darkening  heavens,  descended  slowly  below  the  golden  ridge  to 
illuminate  another  hemisphere. 

At  the  conclusion  of  dinner  that  evening  a  portion  of  the  "fam- 
ily" remained  at  "home"  while  several  members  of  the  younger  ele- 
ment continued  their  tour  of  sight-seeing  as  well  as  possible  by  lamp- 
light, or  under  the  glare  of  the  moon. 

One  incident,  particularly  worthy  of  mention,  was  brought  to 
light  by  the  discovery  that  Sir  Knights  Burry,  Sample,  Baumann, 
Greenawalt  and  Gilchrist,  had  disappeared.  Not  to  be  economical 
with  the  truth,  it  must  be  said  that  we  were  in  a  quandary  as  to  what 
had  become  of  them.  A  moment  of  relaxation — a  concentration  of 
thought,  and  the  secret  dawned  upon  us!  It  was  remembered  how 
interested  this  quintette  was  in  those  happy-spirited  girls  at  the 
Iron  Springs  Hotel,  where  we  had  lunched  during  the  day.  It  was 
also  remembered  by  a  few  who  were  within  hearing  distance,  that 
the  same  ladies  had  invited  the  runaways  over  for  dinner,  and  had 
given  the  assurance  that  they  would  take  it  upon  themselves  to  in- 
sure the  "boys"  a  cordial  reception.  After  dinner  the  five  couples 
were  to  attend  a  dance  in  or  about  Colorado  Springs.  This  ar- 
rangement, it  was  remembered,  was  agreed  upon,  and  so  the  mys- 
tery was  solved. 

No  wonder  then  that  the  lost  sheep  had  "togged"  themselves  in 
their  "very  best"  and  had  neatly  shaven  before  they  strayed  from  the 
fold.  Burry,  however,  insisted  upon  clinging  to  his  striped  sweater, 
which  resembled  the  American  flag — he  was  a  picturesque  object  as 
a  cotillion  leader.  The  injunction  that  was  issued,  and  the  conversa- 
tion that  transpired  before  they  left  was  also  remembered.  "Burry," 
they  said,  "now  listen.  You  are  about  to  go  among  a  brilliant  as- 
semblage of  ladies,  refined,  cultured  and  thoroughly  accomplished  in 
the  manners  and  customs  of  deportment  in  good  society.  Now  Burry, 
be  polite  and  obliging,  and  consider  our  opinion.  If  you  want  to 
command  the  just  respect  of  the  ladies — for  in  that  make-up  you 
can  never  win  their  friendly  regard — your  costume  should  only  be 
such  as  is  becoming  your  mother's  drawing-room!" 

Burry  stood  placidly  contemplating.  Then  he  remarked,  smil- 
ingly: "Nope!  No  change!  I'd  rather  be  a  living  coward  than  a 
dead  hero!" 

So  they  called  upon  the  maidens.  It  was  11  o'clock  when  they 
returned.  They  hadn't  danced!  They  hadn't  even  dined!  The 
girls  had  issued  a  proclamation  that  they  would  not  attend  the  dance 
unless  chaperoned  by  an  aunt — a  maiden  lady  of  about  64  summers. 
The  "boys"  "reneiged"  at  this  proposition.  During  the  discussion 


46  A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

of  this  point  of  contention,  the  ladies  entirely  overlooked  their 
proposition  to  serve  dinner,  and  the  boys  didn't  care  to  mention 
the  oversight  in  the  face  of  the  first  disappointment. 

It  was  a  concentrated  raid  that  the  wayfarers  made  upon  the 
commissary  car  upon  their  return.  It  was  amusing  to  behold  the 
starving  pilgrims.  Driven  by  hunger,  they  munched  watermelon  to 
the  very  outer  edge,  and  never  paused  for  an  instant  to  inspect  the 
sandwiches,  to  determine  whether  or  not  their  contents  were  suf- 
ficiently lean ;  but  with  one  in  each  hand,  and  a  stack  within  reaching 
distance,  they  kept  busily  at  their  tasks,  unmindful  of  an  enthusi- 
astic and  much  amused  audience. 

The  day  closed  with  its  characterization  of  momentous  events 
and  memories.  There  was  not  an  individual  in  the  party  whose 
brain  did  not  teem  with  thoughts  and  images,  scenes  and  memories, 
invoked  by  the  history  of  the  day  and  of  the  venerable  scenes  that 
lay  before  us. 

But  among  us  all,  there  was  no  "voice  of  them  that  wept."  Tears 
would  have  been  out  of  place.  The  thoughts  of  what  we  had  seen 
were  filled  with  poetry,  sublimity,  and  more  than  all — dignity. 
Wheresoever  we  had  gone  during  the  day,  we  were  met  by  the 
kindest  attention. 

The  hour  is  late,  a  breeze  so  soft  and  yet  so  invigorating,  touched 
the  cheek  like  a  kind,  familiar  hand ;  it  seemed  to  whisper  sweetly 
to  the  ear:  ''The  morrow  will  be  fairer  than  this,  come,  come,"  it 
beckons,  "Take  a  final  glimpse  of  the  surroundings."  Behold!  Na- 
ture sleeps,  breathlessly — silently;  perhaps  she  was  dreaming  of 
the  spirit  world  that  seems  to  draw  so  close  to  her  on  such  a — g-o-o-d 
n-i-g-h-t. 


One  or  two  of  our  companions  who  have  been  accused  of  being  implicated  in  the 
above  incident,  claim  they  were  not  among  those  who  called  upon  the  ladies.  Should 
this  be  so,  they  need  offer  no  apology  ;  s  far  as  the  incident  is  concerned ;  but  inasmuch  as 
they  came  home  the  same  time  as  the  guilty  parties,  displayed  the  same  ravenous  appetite, 
and  offered  no  satisfactory  account  for  their  late  arrival,  they  have  not  been  entirely  ex- 
onerated, and  the  circumstantial  evidence  remains  unshaken. 


47 


CHAPTER  V. 

E  awoke  early  and  refreshed  on  the  morn  which  our  calendars 
told  us  was  Wednesday,  August  24.  All  were  ready  to  ap- 
preciate anew  the  wonders  about  us  and  the  prospect  of  view- 
ing such  additional  scenic  grandeurs  that  time  would  permit, 
for  minutes  had  value  and  we  were  scheduled  to  depart  at  10:30 
o'clock. 

Several  of  the  pilgrims  drove  to  the  Canyons  and  the  Seven 
Falls;  to  Palmer  Park  and  the  Cheyenne  Mountains.  Others  took 
a  trip  over  "The  Short  Line,"  America's  famous  Mountain  High- 
way. It  is  a  ride  of  forty-five  miles  from  Colorado  Springs  to  the 
Cripple  Creek  Gold  Camp,  passing  en  route  "Point  Sublime,"  "St. 
Peter's  Dome,"  "Devil's  Slide,"  "Cathedral  Park"  and  one  continuous 
panorama  of  nature's  most  gorgeous  mountain  and  canyon  scenery. 
To  describe  such  beauty  and  grandeur  of  Nature's  artistic  triumph 
would  truly  bankrupt  the  English  language.  Circle  the  globe,  if 
you  must,  it  will  repay  the  time  and  expense.  The  mass  of  richly 
colored  rock  torn  by  the  tempests  of  a  thousand  years  rear  their 
heads  in  all  manner  of  fantastic  shapes,  brushing  each  other  in  wild 
disorder.  The  road  starts  where  the  beauty  begins  and  chooses  the 
loveliest  spots  as  its  pathway,  over  the  mountains,  circling  around 
the  tops  of  canyons,  presenting  Nature's  handiwork  with  a  bewilder- 
ing magnificence.  In  the  care  of  Mr.  D.  C.  MacWatters,  that  whole- 
souled  happy  comrade  (by  the  way  a  Pittsburgh  boy)  the  trip  was 
made  doubly  a  pleasure. 

We  visited  the  Broadmoor  Casino;  Ruxton  and  Williams  Can- 
yons and  Ute  Pass;  Glen  Eyril;  the  Seven  Lakes;  Bruin  Inn;  the 
Smelters;  Monument  Park  and  the  great  variety  of  scenic  wonders 
for  which  Colorado  Springs  is  noted.  With  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
which  are  tributary  to  it,  Colorado  Springs  contains  within  its  bor- 
ders a  greater  number  and  variety  of  wonderful  scenic  creations  than 
can  be  found  in  any  other  equal  area  in  the  world. 

We  concluded  our  sight-seeing  expedition  of  the  morning  by 
making  a  tour  of  the  business  section  of  Colorado  Springs.  The 
ladies,  of  course,  called  on  the  department  stores  and  scrutinized  and 
criticised  the  fashions  and  modes  (some  were  ancient,  they  said) 
and  purchased  a  parasol,  a  fan  or  some  other  souvenir  which  met 
their  fancy.  A  hurried  raid  was  made  into  some  of  the  shops  for 


48  A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

musical  (?)  instruments  to  replace  such  as  were  demolished  in  the 
raid  on  board  the  train  sometime  previous. 

The  city  of  Colorado  Springs  is  pleasantly  laid  out  with  wide, 
tree-shaded  streets,  like  a  New  England  village  spread  broadly  at  the 
base  of  Pike's  Peak.  Here  dwell  great  numbers  of  people  who  are 
physically  unable  to  stand  the  rigors  of  the  climate  along  the  At- 
lantic coast.  It  is  a  veritable  Eden  for  invalids.  They  come  to 
regain  the  lost  angel  of  health  and  seldom  seek  again  unless  they 
come  too  late.  Many  live  here  who  could  survive  nowhere  else. 
They  long  to  return  to  their  far-off  homes ;  but  home  to  them  means 
death.  The  Colorado  air  sustains  them ;  elsewhere  they  die.  They 
long — some  of  them — for  the  snowy  winters  and  flowery  summers 
of  their  eastern  homes.  Others  settle  happily  and  contentedly  in  the 
endless  sunshine  of  winterless,  summerless  Colorado. 

The  city  proper  was  first  settled  in  1871,  but  as  the  name  er- 
roneously suggests,  there  are  no  springs  nearer  than  Manitou.  The 
climate  of  Colorado  Springs  is  charming,  so  different  from  that  of 
nearly  every  other  region  of  the  world  in  its  sunshine,  dryness,  free- 
dom from  fog,  its  altitude  and  its  daily  light  winds,  that  it  is  of  great 
beneficial  value  for  all  human  ailments.  The  advantages  of  the 
climate  have  been  a  great  factor  in  increasing  the  population.  At 
Colorado  Springs  the  sun  shines  304  days  in  the  year — in  New  York 
but  263  days.  The  city  has  on  one  hand  a  magnificent  mountain 
view  and  on  the  other  a  limitless  landscape  across  the  prairie  lands. 
Here  is  located  Colorado  College  and  other  public  institutions  and 
the  National  Printers'  Home,  supported  by  printers  throughout  the 
country. 

The  time  for  our  departure  was  rapidly  approaching.  The  party 
grouped  about  the  station.  The  engine  was  attached  to  the  "special." 
The  engineer,  a  big  good-souled  fellow,  was  typical  in  his  attire  of 
blue  jacket  and  overalls — a  small  cap  which  but  partially  covered 
his  large  head,  and  a  bandanna  around  his  neck.  Everything  about 
him  was  symbolic  of  his  characteristics — good-natured,  happy  fellow 
— he  stood  by  his  cab,  hand  resting  on  the  rail,  facing  the  rear, 
awaiting  orders  and  ready  to  ascend  and  pull  open  the  throttle. 

"A  jolly  party,"  he  remarked,  "What  commandery  did  you  say? 
Oh  yes!  I  am  a  member  of  Omaha  Commandery.  I  received  orders 
to  drive  this  "special"  but  I  did  not  know  who  or  what  the  party 
was,  but  soon  as  I  sees  you — well,  well,"  he  laughed,  as  his  face 
flushed,  "I  told  Jack,"  (the  fireman)  "I  am  going  to  have  a  holiday 
with  this  'er  party.  Say  Jack,  give  her  plenty  of  oil  and  we'll  have 
smooth  driving.  I'd  give  my  year's  salary  to  be  with  you  all  the 
way.  Now  look  here,  boys,  you  know  what  I'm  going  to  do?  I'll 
blow  the  whistle  and  throw  the  throttle  wide  open  at  every  station 


Courtesy  Mr.  D.  C.  Mac 

SCENES    ON    THE    C.  S.  &  C.  C.  D.  RY.    (THE    SHORT    LINE). 

i — Around  the  Top  of  South  Cheyenne  Canyon.  2 — Mountain  view  from  Point  Sublime.  3 — Broadmoor  and 
Plains  from  Pt.  Sublime.  4 — Approaching  Duffields.  5 — The  Short  Line  Penetrating  the  Rockies.  6 — Three  Eleva- 
tions of  Track.  7 — Colorado  Springs  and  Tunnel.  8 — St.  Peter's  Dome.  9 — Rock  Creek  Castles.  10 — The  Short 
Line  in  Cheyenne  Canyons.  1 1 — Cathedral  Rocks.  12 — Rounding  the  Devil's  Slide. 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE  49 

and  the  inhabitants  will  wonder  what  happened.  I  just  tell  you  it 
will  be  no  Mormon  pilgrimage  crossing  this  'ere  state!" 

This  same  engineer  sat  in  his  cab,  head  propped  out  of  the 
window,  wearing  one  of  the  Allegheny  commandery's  fatigue  caps 
all  the  way.  Yes,  he  was  one  of  us,  a  worthy  addition  to  the  happy 
family;  and  for  several  reasons  he  will  always  remember  the  meet- 
ing. 

This  engineer  was  merely  a  specimen  of  the  pleasing  good-na- 
tured manhood  among  the  employees  of  the  various  railroads  over 
which  we  traveled. 

"Say,  Wood-ze,  how  soon?"  was  asked.  "Ten  minutes,"  replied 
the  obliging  Pullman  conductor  who  had  entered  so  deeply  into 
our  affections  that  the  formal  identity  of  "Mr.  Woods"  had  long 
since  been  supplanted  by  the  more  familiar  term. 

A  few  moments  were  left  in  which  to  take  a  long  memorable 
look  at  Pike's  Peak.  There  was  something  subduing  in  the  influence 
of  that  silent,  solemn  and  awful  presence.  One  seemed  in  the  very 
presence  of  the  indestructible  and  eternal  and  to  appreciate  the  trivial 
and  fleeting  nature  of  one's  own  existence.  The  contrast  seemed  sharp. 
The  spirit  of  the  great  rock  has  looked  down,  through  the  slow 
drift  of  the  ages  upon  millions  of  men  of  many  races  and  judged  them 
as  it  will  judge  a  million  more,  and  shall  still  stand  dauntlessly  up- 
on its  throne,  unchanged  and  ever  watching,  after  life  shall  have 
gone  and  the  earth  become  a  vacant  desolation.  What  is  the  mys- 
terious spell  humanity  finds  about  Pike's  Peak  that  is  absent  from 
the  surrounding  mountains?  That  strange,  deep,  nameless  influence, 
which  once  felt,  cannot  be  forgotten  and  creates  an  insatiable  de- 
sire to  experience  it  again. 

Probably  moved  by  this  strong  influence,  Sir  Oscar  Schulze,  to 
the  great  astonishment  of  all  present,  expressed  his  determination 
to  again  ascend  the  summit  of  the  peak.  This,  of  course,  would  have 
been  impossible,  if  he  would  accompany  our  party.  So  we  pleaded 
with  him  and  exhausted  every  effort  in  prevailing  upon  him  to  defer 
such  an  undertaking  until  some  future  time,  but  Oscar  was  persistent 
and  would  not  yield — then,  to  the  surprise  of  all,  he  demonstrated  his 
superb  idea. 

At  the  station  stood  an  immense  telescope.  He  approached  the 
telescopist  and  announced  that  he  desired  to  make  an  ascent  to 
the  summit  and  inquired  if  there  was  any  danger.  "No,"  replied 
the  telescopist,  "not  by  telescope."  He  concluded  by  adding  that 
he  had  taken  a  great  many  parties  to  the  summit  that  way  and 
"never  lost  a  man."  Oscar  then  announced  that  he  would  start  im- 
mediately. His  determination  was  calmly  expressed ;  the  dare  and 
spirit  was  upon  him.  As  he  had  committed  himself,  he  would  not 

(4) 


50  A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

back  down — he  would  ascend  the  Peak  if  it  cost  him  his  life.  He 
told  the  man  to  slant  his  machine  in  the  proper  direction — and  he 
was  off. 

Oscar  invited  one  of  our  companions  to  go  along  but  he  was 
afraid  to  risk  the  dangers  of  the  trip.  Oscar  gave  him  fresh  courage 
by  assuring  him  that  he  would  hold  his  hand  all  the  way.  With 
a  perceptible  tremble,  our  companion  consented. 

Taking  a  last  pathetic  look  upon  the  summer  scene  about  them, 
they  fixed  their  eyes  to  the  glass  and  prepared  to  ascend  to  the  sum- 
mit of  everlasting  snow.  The  mountain-top  was  brilliant  under  the 
glare  of  the  sun  and  seemed  hardly  1,000  yards  away.  Objects  and 
details  on  the  very  top  were  clearly  discernible  and  with  sharp  dis- 
tinctness they  beheld  a  woman,  but  much  to  the  regret  of  the  ladies 
in  the  party  they  were,  unable  to  "describe  her  dress."  They  could 
see  her  nod  to  the  people  about  her  and  raise  her  hand  to  hold  her 
hat  on,  while  she  used  the  other  hand  to  shield  her  eyes  from  the 
sun.  It  seemed  incredible  that  the  woman  was  in  reality  so  far  away. 
When  they  turned  their  eyes  away  from  the  instrument,  everything 
was  vague  and  the  mountain  monster  alone  commanded  the  vision 
of  the  eye.  As  our  friend  Oscar  shouted  a  triumphant  "Ah!"  over 
the  impressive  scene  the  telescope  offered,  a  startled  man  at  their 
elbows  cried:  "All  a-b-o-a-r-d !" 

They  jumped  off  the  summit  in  an  instant,  for  they  preferred 
to  be  with  the  happy  family  who  were  already  aboard,  rather  than 
to  be  orphaned  upon  the  mountain-top.  We  bid  the  Peak  a  final 
good-bye — possibly  for  all  time.  How  surely,  at  some  future  day, 
when  the  memory  of  it  shall  have  lost  its  vividness  shall  we  half-be- 
lieve that  we  have  ever  seen  these  many  creative  geniuses  in  a 
wonderful  dream  rather  than  with  waking  eyes. 

As  our  train  started,  it  was  difficult  to  determine  whether  the 
engine  or  the  Pittsburgh  tobies  smoked  by  the  engineer  and  fireman 
were  casting  back  the  greatest  gusts  of  smoke.  We  whirled  along 
for  an  hour  or  more  without  any  conflict  among  the  "stag"  coach 
constituents,  worth  mentioning.  It  was  a  24  hour  ride  to  Salt  Lake 
City.  However,  the  employments  and  amusements  which  were  pre- 
pared on  an  elaborate  scale,  whiled  away  the  time  merrily.  There 
was  an  endless  strain  of  cheerful,  chattering  gossip  which  sounded 
throughout  each  of  the  coaches.  A  little  reading  was  indulged  in  and 
much  smoking  and  sewing,  although  not  by  the  same  parties. 

In  the  "stag"  coach  a  delightful,  harmless  game  of  euchre  was 
in  progress,  the  most  amusing  feature  of  which  was  Burry's  per- 
sistency in  calling  upon  "Kings  and  Queens"  and  never  finding- 
them  at  home.  During  the  game  it  was  proposed  to  hold  a  euchre 
party  on  an  elaborate  scale,  in  the  evening — full  dress,  of  course, 


THE    CANYONS    OF    COLORADO. 


I — Black  Canyon  of  the  Gunnison  (Showing  the  Currecanti  Needle  in  Distance).  2 — Clear  Creek  Canyon  (The  Hanging 
Rock).  3 — Platte  Canyon.  4 — Grand  Canyon  of  the  Arkansas  (  The  Royal  Gorge).  c, — Grand  Canyon  cf  the  Arkansas  (The 
Royal  Gorge  and  Suspended  Bridge).  6 — Canyon  of  the  Grand  River  (  near  Glenwood  Springs  showing  the  IV.irror  ).  7 — Can- 
yon of  the  Grand  River  (  near  Glenwood  Springs  showing  Tunnel). 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE  51 

and  Gilchrist  took  especial  care  to  notify  Burry  that  he  could  not 
participate  in  the  sweater  that  had  seen  service  at  a  social  function 
at  Manitou.  Gilchrist  laid  great  emphasis  upon  the  fact  that  the  glar- 
ing striped  design  of  the  sweater  might  lead  the  residents  along. the 
railway  to  believe  that  the  "special"  was  a  convict  train,  once  they 
gained  sight  of  the  garment. 

Burry  denied  Gilchrist  the  right  to  bar  the  sweater  because  it 
had  already  been  "barred"  by  the  designer,  but  he  was  out-voted 
and  promised  to  appear  attired  as  a  citizen  at  the  promised  social 
eve.nt  of  the  evening. 

At  the  conclusion  of  the  "stag"  coach  euchre  game,  Sir  Seil- 
ing  took  occasion  to  announce  a  most  agreeable  surprise  in  the  shape 
of  a  feast  of  melons.  He  had  purchased  several  armsful  at  Colorado 
Springs.  "They  were  the  real  things,"  he  said.  "Knew  they  were 
Rockyfords.  Grew  right  in  the  neighborhood."  Mouths  were  water- 
ing as  he  declared  his  exclusive,  professional  knowledge  of  what  a 
respectable  melon  should  be  like. 

Finally  he  brought  forth  the  fruit  and  called  for  a  knife.  A 
murmur  of  suppressed  laughter  came  from  several  quarters,  and  Seil- 
ing  believing  this  to  be  an  expression  of  appreciation  of  the  delicacies 
about  to  be  offered,  cut  firmly  and  deeply.  The  first  of  the  al- 
leged melons  fell  apart.  Then  Seiling  nearly  fell  apart.  The  ter- 
rible truth  dawned  upon  him.  He  had  bought  pumpkins  for  melons 
— his  reputation  was  shattered !  Only  when  his  invited  guests  prom- 
ised to  string  the  pumpkin  seeds  into  a  necklace  for  him  as  a  token 
of  appreciation  of  his  good  intention,  could  his  humiliation  be  eased. 

As  we  sped  onward,  every  mile  disclosed  new  and  wondrous 
views.  We  sat  in  our  quarters  as  spectators  of  a  moving  panorama. 
The  diversity  of  subjects  was  endless.  The  combinations  of  form  and 
color,  of  light  and  shadow,  of  foreground  and  distance,  were  con- 
stantly changing.  Skirting  southward,  we  arrived  at  Pueblo.  Here 
Vulcan  has  fired  his  forges  with  red  molten  matter  from  mines  of 
gold,  silver,  lead,  copper  and  iron. 

The  community  is  a  center  of  western  commerce ;  they  term  it 
the  "Pittsburgh  of  the  West."  However,  in  our  eyes,  it  resembled 
our  home  city  only  in  the  clouds  of  smoke  that  overhang  it.  A 
tinge  of  homesickness  overcame  us,  but  in  a  moment  it  was  for- 
gotten. 

Canyon  City  is  41  miles  westward  and  the  journey  to  that  city 
is  of  the  most  interesting  nature.  Presently  a  new  interest  is  aroused 
when,  four  miles  west,  the  road  enters  the  Royal  Gorge  in  the  Grand 
Canyon  of  the  Arkansas.  Perhaps  nothing  in  the  whole  range  of 
the  Rockies  is  more  awe  inspiring.  It  overpowers  the  beholder  in 
its  effect. 


52  A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

The  canyon  is  formed  by  a  mighty  fissure  in  the  living  rock, 
wrought  by  some  stupendous  upheaval  in  the  ages  of  long  ago.  With 
a  base  of  about  50  feet  in  width,  it  widens  out  until  the  top  spreads 
open  some  70  feet.  The  walls  rise  up  a  sheer  3,000  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  river  that  rushes  by  in  its  narrow  bed.  Walled  in  be- 
tween these  monster  rocks,  which  are  marble-like  in  their  many  hues, 
it  is  little  to  be  wondered  at  that  the  imagination  is  staggered  with 
the  effort  to  comprehend  the  full  sublimity  of  the  scene.  As  one 
gazes  in  silent  awe  at  this  miracle  in  rock,  thoughts  cannot  linger 
elsewhere.  One  sees,  gradually  realizes  and  then  remembers! 

The  Gorge,  smooth  and  unbroken  by  tree  or  shrub,  rises  into  the 
skies  and  leaps  into  enternity.  Great  engineering  skill  was  displayed 
in  the  laying  of  track  in  short  and  bold  curves  along  the  railway 
route,  which  winds  its  way  along  the  rushing  stream  at  the  base  of 
the  mighty  cliffs.  The  train  moves  slowly  through  the  wondrous 
gorge.  The  p-u-f-f,  p-u-f-f,  p-u-f-f  of  the  engine  was  met  with  echoes 
of  great  volume  and  it  was  impossible  to  count  the  astonishing  clatter 
of  reverberations.  The  echoes  were  so  long-continued  and  gave  such 
an  indication  of  cordiality  that  they  were  enjoyed  by  everyone. 

Out  of  the  great  canyon,  and  in  sight  of  our  "special,"  there  arose 
innumerable  lofty,  picturesque  mountains,  the  summits  of  which 
were  covered  with  snow.  The  great  encircling  walls  of  rock  and 
snow  contrasted  grandly  with  the  beauteous  scenes  beneath.  The 
snows  had  wonderful  effect  as  we  looked  up  to  them  from  the  moving 
train.  They  flashed  gloriously  in  the  sunlight  above  the  mists  of  the 
valley;  they  had  a  rosy  glow  in  the  evening  sunset  and  when  the  sun 
had  entirely  departed  and  before  darkness  completely  shrouded  them, 
they  gleamed  afar  off  with  a  cold  and  spectral  light  that  made 
them  appear  as  possessions  of  a  region  over  which  man  has  never 
trod. 

The  deep  black  gorges  in  the  mountains  look  mysterious.  Here 
and  there  the  sun  lights  up  some  little  grassy  ravine  and  then  dis- 
plays splintered  rock  rising  in  wild  confusion.  Often  long  lines  of 
white  clouds  lie  among  the  mountain  summits,  while  at  other  times 
every  peak  and  precipice  wall  is  distinctly  marked  against  the  deep 
blue  sky.  The  valley  is  especially  striking  where  it  lies  partly  in 
golden  sunlight  and  partly  within  the  shadows  of  its  great  hills. 

The  journey  offers  new  scenic  grandeurs  almost  continuously. 
Innumerable  objects  of  interest  present  themselves  upon  every  hand. 
A  thousand  novel  impressions  photograph  themselves  upon  the  minds 
through  the  eyes'  lens.  At  times  one  would  imagine  that  nature 
has  reversed  the  elements  and  that  skyland  and  earthland  were  trans- 
posed and  the  world  had  turned  topsy-turvy. 

With  two  engines  to  draw  the  "special"  we  slowly  plowed  along. 


THE    CANYONS     OF     COLORADO. 


i — Eagle  River  Canyon  (  Between  I.eadville  and  Glenwood  Springs).  2 — Boulder  Canyon.  3 — Los  Pinos  Canyon  (  Toltec 
Gorge,  showing  tram  of  cars  entering  tunnel).  4— Williams  Canyon  (  The  Amphitheatre).  5— Uncompahgre  Canyon  (Ouray 
and  Silyerton  Toll  Road).  6 — Box  Canyon  (  near  Ouray  ).  7 — Grand  Canyon  of  the  Colorado.  8 — Black  Canyon  of  the  Gunni- 
son  (  Side  View,  Showing  the  Currecanti  Needle  ). 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE"  GOLDEN  GATE  53 

winding  about  and  climbing  the  steep  mountain  grade  for  an  hour  or 
two.  Presently  the  locomotives  seemed  to  take  wings  and  appeared 
to  be  leaping  into  the  very  clouds  and  ere  we  knew  it,  we  were  on  the 
top  of  the  range  of  the  mighty  Rockies  at  an  altitude  of  10,200  feet. 
Thus  Salida  and  Malta  were  passed  and  Leadville  reached — the  giant 
baby  city — the  youngest  and  most  wonderful  child  of  the  prolific 
west!  Gaining  world-famed  reputation  as  a  mining  camp,  Leadville 
grew  up  like  a  mushroom,  and  it  is  one  of  the  highest  cities,  in  point 
of  altitude,  in  the  world. 

In  the  early  days  of  Colorado,  this  was  the  great  gold  placer 
mining  camp  of  California  Gulch.  Afterwards  it  produced  enormous 
quantities  of  silver  from  the  extensive  carbonate  beds  discovered  in 
1876  and  the  population  at  once  expanded  to  30,000,  while  its  name 
was  changed  to  Leadville.  Of  late,  gold  mining  has  again  become 
profitable,  while  the  yield  of  silver,  which  at  one  time  reached 
$13,000,000  annually,  has  been  much  reduced  owing  to  the  decline  in 
value.  Lead  is  also  found  in  great  quantities. 

At  Leadville  some  of  our  party  left  the  train  and  purchased 
specimens  of  ore  from  urchins  about  the  station  who  traffic  largely  in 
these  souvenirs  with  passing  tourists.  By  the  way,  who  was  it  who 
received  the  lead  quarter  in  change  during  such  a  transaction,  and 
only  became  aware  of  it  when  it  was  too  late  to  go  back?  However, 
the  coin  was  surely  an  appropriate  memento  of  Leadville.  Sir 
William  J.  Staiger,  in  fatigue  uniform,  entered  the  station  lunch-room 
to  buy  a  sandwich.  When  he  inquired  the  price,  the  pleasant  wait- 
ress replied,  "Five  cents  to  railroad  men." 

A  few  miles  northwest  from  the  crest  of  Tennessee  Pass,  lies  the 
famous  mountain  of  the  Holy  Cross,  whose  peak  attains  an  altitude 
of  14,200  feet.  This  snow-white  banner  of  Christian  faith  has  been 
engraved  by  nature  into  the  brown  brow  of  the  mountain,  at  its  very 
apex.  The  cross  is  formed  by  two  transverse  canyons  of  great  depth 
running  down  and  across  the  mountain.  Everlasting  snow  finds 
repose  in  the  bed  of  these  ravines  and  marks  the  symbol  of  Chris- 
tianity perfectly.  It  is  a  wondrous  and  most  impressive  sight  to  behold 
this  sign  "set  in  the  heavens."  This  great  pure  white  cross,  shining 
high  above  all  the  turbulence  of  the  earth,  appears  as  a  mute  invita- 
tion for  faith,  hope  and  charity  for  all  mankind  to  look  up  to.  Half- 
way between  earth  and  heaven,  this  cross  of  the  Creator's  making 
seems  as  a  link  by  which  both  spheres  may  be  joined  together. 

Turning  our  faces  to  the  setting  sun,  we  continued  our  journey. 
We  found  ourselves  on  the  western  slope  of  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
where  the  Eagle  River  takes  its  rise,  gathering  volume  and  strength 
from  hundreds  of  snow-fed  tributaries  and  rushing  down  through  the 
gorge  known  as  Eagle  River  Canyon,  to  join  the  Grand. 


54  A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

"Look!  Look!  Look!"  shouted  "Vic,"  pointing  upward.  The 
walls  near  the  summit  were  pierced  with  the  shafts  and  tunnels  of 
mines  and  up  near  the  rugged  heights  one  catches  glimpses  of  the 
shaft-houses  and  miners'  cabins  perched  on  the  mountain  brink  like 
eagles'  nests. 

As  the  evening  sun  set  in  its  flood  of  crimson  and  gold,  the  glory 
of  the  glow  would  dazzle  the  strong  eye  of  the  eagle.  Gradually  it 
paled  to  a  soft  primrose — then  to  eternal  green.  Later  the  pearly 
gray  clouds  were  rose-flushed  by  an  after-glow  more  vivid  than  the 
sunset  itself;  a  rich,  full  carmine  which  quickly  faded  away  to  the 
cold,  intense  blue  of  a  Colorado  night.  A  fitful,  light  breeze  arose, 
creating  a  melancholy,  mournful  wail  which  vibrated  among  the 
rocks  and  waters  with  a  low,  surging  sound — a  wild  mountain  melody. 

After  dinner  that  evening,  we  remembered,  in  the  words  of  a 
famous  author,  that  it  was  "the  night  of  the  party,"  the  euchre  party. 
It  was  to  be  "ladies  night"  in  the  "stag"  coach.  The  ladies,  attired 
in  their  finest,  were  gallantly  escorted  to  their  places  and  every  seat 
was  occupied. 

What  a  remarkable  change  had  come  over  the  dear  old  "stag" 
coach!  It  had  been  finely  groomed  under  process  of  housecleaning. 
The  old  home  of  the  "rowdy  bunch"  and  their  associates  had  been 
smoothed  of  its  usual  aspect  of  being  the  play-ground  of  a  rough  and 
ready,  frolicsome  crowd  of  wandering  pilgrims.  In  accord  with  the 
appearance  of  the  coach,  an  atmosphere  of  good  behavior  prevailed, 
which  must  have  been  fully  as  great  a  surprise  to  the  coach  as  its  own 
appearance  was  to  the  occupants. 

The  conduct  of  the  "boys"  within  the  confines  of  their  own 
"roost"  was  not  only  a  revelation  but  was  gratifying  and  surprising 
— even  laughably  so — and  a  real  treat  for  the  guests.  But  my,  how 
many  cautions,  promptings  and  rehearsals  were  necessary  to  accom- 
plish the  perfect  staging  of  this  comedy  "of  good  behavior." 

The  game  was  on.  Mirth  and  laughter  arose  in  loud  peals  from 
the  contestants  who  were  challenging  each  other's  skill  and  often 
drowned  the  announcements  to  "assist"  and  commands  to  "take  it 
up."  Out  of  the  continuous  strain  of  converse  and  laughter,  it  was 
difficult  to  determine  who  were  successful.  Those  who  did  not  par- 
ticipate gathered  about  the  side  doors  of  the  commissary  car  and 
viewed  the  spectacle  with  keen  gratification. 

But  another  and  more  wondrous  sight  greeted  the  spectators 
from  without.  A  spectacle  that  found  its  strength  in  its  serenity — 
its  sublime,  gorgeous  beauty  whose  silence  was  its  eloquence,  and 
whose  brilliancy  was  upon  its  surface.  The  train  was  high  in  the 
mountains — climbing,  climbing  and  circling  about  in  many  curves 
on  a  shelf  of  granite  hewn  out  of  the  perpendicular  cliffs.  The 


SCENIC    GEMS    OF    COLORADO. 

I — Animas  Canyon  (Through  it  flows  the  Rio  de  Las  Animas  dc  P6rdidas.  The  River  of  Lost  Souls  1.  2-3-4 — 
Mountain  of  the  Holy  Cross  (Seen  from  the  crest  of  Fremont  and  Tennessee  Pass  ).  $ — Eagle  River  Canyon  (  Mine 
Shaft  and  Tunnels  near  the  Summit  ).  6 — The  Palisades.  7 — Snow-banks  on  '•  Moffat  Road,  "  60  miles  from  Denver. 
3 — The  Walls  of  the  Canyon — Grand  River.  9 — Salida,  Colorado.  10 — A  range  of  snow  crowned  mountains,  n  — 
Mountain  lion.  12— Burros  (We  helped  to  build  the  Railroad).  13— Near  Mt.  Alto  Park,  Switzerland  Trail. 


55 

powerful  headlights  of  the  engines  and  the  glare  from  the  palatial 
coaches  illuminated  the  rock  on  every  side.  Our  souls  became  im- 
bued with-  the  spectacle  that  unfolded  itself  before  our  eyes.  The 
walls  of  these  crevices  assumed  magical  shapes.  Colors,  tints  and 
unnamed  tones  which  are  foreign  to  the  artist's  palette,  illuminated 
these  cliffs  and  turned  everything  to  a  green,  red,  yellow  aqua 
marine  or  mother-of-pearl,  by  gradations  of  astonishing  delicacy. 

On  the  other  side,  clearly  detached  by  a  sharp  escarpment,  arc 
towering  rocks  like  spires  of  gigantic  cathedrals;  rising  so  proud, 
so  elegant,  so  bold  and  so  stately.  Words  fail  to  express  the  unex- 
pected outlines  and  peculiar  shapes  of  these  rocks.  Their  tops  are 
broken  and  indented  in  the  form  of  saw  teeth,  while  gable  ends  and 
crosses  are  effected  by  these  peaks  and  vertical  walls,  some  of  which 
even  slope  outward  and  overhang  the  railroad  tracks. 

Passing  through  this  brilliant  gash  in  the  mountain,  we  entered 
the  canyon  of  the  Grand  River,  approached  through  the  valley  of  the 
Eagle  River.  High  bluffs  hemmed  us  in  on  the  left,  while  the  river 
bank  twisted  itself  along  on  the  right.  Gigantic  specimens  of 
ancient  architecture  hewed  out  of  the  rock  by  the  mallet  of  na- 
ture, rose  above  us.  Suggestions  of  the  Pyramids  and  the  Sphinx 
look  out  of  the  rock  piled  structures  on  every  hand.  Columns,  bas- 
tions, walls,  buttresses,  towers  and  statues  in  solid  stone  are  created 
out  of  the  wonderful  and  natural  formations. 

Emerging  from  this  dreamland  of  stone,  we  entered  Glenwood 
Springs  at  9 :30  o'clock  in  the  evening.  A  brief  delay  afforded  us 
the  opportunity  and  pleasure  of  viewing  the  surrounding  country 
from  the  station  platform.  We  found  Glenwood  Springs  nestled  in 
the  midst  of  beauteous  mountain  landscapes.  Its  fame  rests  in  its 
well-earned  reputation  as  a  health  and  pleasure  resort  and  it  is  prin- 
cipally noted  for  its  hot  springs,  where  but  a  few  years  ago,  the 
Ute  Indians  bathed  in  their  native  freedom. 

The  Colorado  Hotel,  one  block  from  the  station,  calls  forth  ad- 
miration in  its  architectural  design,  situated  as  it  is,  at  the  base  of 
the  mountains.  It  commands  a  richly  picturesque  view  in  over- 
looking the  Grand  River  and  all  the  surrounding  valleys. 

All  this  while,  as  the  beauties  of  nature's  handiwork  are  being 
revealed,  the  euchre  party  continued  without  interruption.  Ofttimes, 
the  non-participants,  who  were  enjoying  the  rich  treat  to  its  fullest, 
called  the  attention  of  the  players  to  the  marvels. 

The  euchre  party  concluded  hostilities  as  we  reached  Grand 
Valley.  After  a  count  of  the  maimed  and  wounded,  it  was  discovered 
that  Sir  William  S.  Watson  had  captured  the  first  prize.  The  writer 
is  not  certain  whether  this  trophy  consisted  of  Burry's  sweater  or 
Seiling's  aggregation  of  pumpkin  melons.  Unfortunately,  the  con- 


56  A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

solation  prize  was  won  by  one  of  the  ladies  and  consisted  of  the 
"Alarm  Clock."  The  lady  indignantly  refused  to  accept  the  "prize" 
and  felt  that  the  record  of  being  the  greatest  loser  was  humiliation 
enough  to  bear.  So  "he"  was  discarded.  Evidently,  he  wasn't  the 
"right"  bower.  With  accustomed  form,  a  luncheon  was  prepared  and 
the  entertainment  voted  a  glorious  success. 

At  the  conclusion  of  festivities,  other  comrades  join  ""•£*•;  party 
in  the  commissary  car,  and  told  and  re-told  of  the  wonderfiu  scenes 
witnessed  while  riding  through  the  canyons.  How  long  we  remained 
in  the  commissary  car  absorbing  the  scenic  grandeurs  as  they  passed 
in  the  night,  would  be  difficult  to  tell.  We  felt  ourselves  embraced 
simultaneously  bv  three  elements — the  awe  and  beauty  about  us, 
the  cheer  and  good-fellowship  of  each  other  and  the  romance  of  the 
starlighted  sky.  These  impulses  wove  a  three-fold  spell  about  our 
senses,  while  our  intellects  and  souls  seemed  free  and  emancipated 
from  earthly  trammels.  Each  moment  seemed  to  draw  us  nearer  to 
the  realm  of  the  stars  which  glistened  so  brilliantly  above  us.  Sud- 
denly we  found  ourselves  growing  drowsy — luxuriantly  sleepy.  It 
was  after  midnight.  Everything  was  hushed  and  the  silence  that  be- 
longs to  the  wide  expanse  of  starlighted  heavens  prevailed.  Not  a 
sound  disturbed  the  stilly  night  to  detract  from  the  planets  as  they 
hung  like  golden  balls  in  the  clear  sky.  The  star  dust  of  planetary 
systems — whole  universes — stretched  away  bewilderingly  into  the 
unutterable  void  of  boundless  immensity,  mapping  out  here  and 
there  the  trackless  thoroughfares  of  God  in  the  midnight  skies. 


The  Scenic  Lines,  The  D.  &  R.  G.  R.  R.  and  the  "  Moffat  Road." 

PORTALS    OF    GRANDEUR. 

i — Gray's  and  Torrey's  Peaks  (  Torrey's  Peak,  height  14, 336  feet;  Gray's  Peak,  height  14,341  feet).     2 — Mount  Sopris, 
altitude  14,300  feet.       > — The  Famous   Camp  Bird  Mine.    4 — Portals  of  the  Grand.     5 — Hanging  Lake  (  near  Glenwood  ). 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE  57 


CHAPTER  VI. 

N  the  early  morning — shortly  after  the  ever  faithful  "Alarm 
Clock"  had  beckoned  us  into  Thursday,  August  25th,  we 
watched  the  silent  battle  of  dawn  and  darkness  upon  the  land 
of  Utah  with  placid  interest.  As  we  observed  the  shadows 
gradually  sink  away  and  saw  the  hidden  beauties  unfold  themselves 
in  splendor — when  the  still  surface  became  belated  like  a  rainbow 
with  broad  bars  of  blue  and  green  and  white  half  the  distance  from 
the  circumference  to  the  centre — when  we  gazed  upon  the  mountain 
lidges  feathered  with  pines,  jutting  white  caps,  bold  promontories, 
grand  sweeps  of  rugged  scenery  topped  with  bald,  glimmering  peaks 
— all  magnificently  pictured  in  the  polished  mirror  of  the  waters,  in 
richest,  softest  detail,  the  tranquil  interest  that  was  born  of  the 
morning,  deepened  and  deepened  by  sure  degrees,  till  it  culminated 
at  last  in  resistless  fascination. 

After  breakfast  we  felt  fresh  and  vigorous.  We  left  our  seats 
hurriedly  and  just  in  time,  as  we  plunged  through  the  arcades  of  the 
"Castle  Gate"  which  guards  the  entrance  to  Price  River  Canyon. 
"Castle  Gate"  bears  a  great  similarity  to  the  "Gateway"  of  the 
"Garden  of  the  Gods."  The  two  high  pillars  of  rock  forming  it  are 
continuations  of  spurs  of  the  cliffs  behind  and  each  rises  about  500 
feet.  They  are  rich  red  in  color  and  the  pines  and  firs  which  grow 
around  their  base  form  a  fine  color  contrast.  Between  these  prom- 
ontories runs  the  river  and  the  railroad,  pressing  closely  upon  one 
another.  The  turreted  rocky  cliffs  and  the  rushing  river  with 
tangled  brush  overhanging,  forms  a  picture  that  deeply  impresses 
the  wayfarer. 

Presently  the  ascent  of  the  Wasatch  range  is  accomplished  and 
the  Mormon  citadel  is  finally  entered.  At  once  we  appreciated  the 
beauty  of  the  great  city  of  the  plains  and  the  handiwork  of  the 
sturdy  pioneer. 

Railroads  have  made  the  Rocky  Mountain  country  familiar  and 
contiguous  to  the  whole  world.  The  canyons,  the  bald  and 
blackened  cliffs,  the  velvety  park  and  the  snowy,  silent  peak  that  for- 
ever rests  against  the  soft,  blue  sky,  are  ever  new.  The  foamy  green 
of  the  torrents  has  whirled  past  the  giant  walls  of  nature's  mighty 
fortress  myriads  of  years,  perhaps,  and  the  stars  have  looked  down 
into  the  great  heart  of  earth  for  centuries,  where  the  silver  thread  of 


58  A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

streams,  thousands  of  feet  below,  have  been  patiently  carving  out  the 
canyon  where  the  eagle,  the  wind  and  the  solemn  echo  have  their 
home. 

Arriving  at  Salt  Lake  City  at  10:40  o'clock,  our  committee 
chartered  a  train  for  a  run  to  Saltair  Beach,  a  magnificent  bathing 
resort  on  the  great  Salt  Lake.  The  14  mile  spin  across  the  valley 
to  the  lake  was  exhilarating.  The  imposing,  gigantic  pavilion, 
numerous  piers  and  many  bath  houses  which  mark  the  resort,  were 
seen  several  miles  away.  The  pavilion  is  of  Moorish  design,  form- 
ing a  monster  crescent  in  the  arms  of  the  sea.  The  waters  are  very 
shallow,  averaging  only  20  feet  in  depth  and  not  over  50  feet  in  the 
deepest  places.  The  shores  on  the  desert  plateau  are  monotonously 
flat,  though  the  resort  itself  stands  4,200  feet  above  sea  level.  The 
dimensions  of  the  lake  varies  according  to  the  rainfall,  the  surface 
rising  and  falling  at  various  periods  in  the  year.  Several  streams 
feed  the  lake,  among  which  is  the  Jordan  River,  40  miles  long,  which 
drains  Utah  Lake  to  the  southward. 

The  waters  are  densely  salt,  varying  from  14  to  22  per  cent,  as 
the  waters  are  high  or  low  (compared  with  three  to  four  per  cent, 
in  the  ocean).  The  lake  is  estimated  to  contain  400,000,000  tons  of 
salt.  Not  a  fish  can  exist  within  it,  with  the  exception  of  a  small 
brine  shrimp.  The  waves  are  light  blue  or  green  and  as  they  dance 
upon  the  surface,  it  is  difficult  to  distinguish  which  color  prevails. 

Bathing  in  Salt  Lake  is  novel.  The  density  of  the  water  makes 
the  body  very  buoyant,  easily  floating  head  and  shoulders  above 
the  waves,  and  is  so  great  that  a  person  is  sustained  on  the  surface 
indefinitely,  while  it  is  impossible  for  the  human  body  to  sink. 

Suddenly,  at  a  moment  when  the  bathers  were  in  their  highest 
glee,  a  frightful  slashing  in  the  waters  riveted  the  attention  of  all! 
The  sun  was  eclipsed  for  an  instant  as  two  immense  objects  passed 
through  the  air,  followed  by  another  and  greater  commotion  in  the 
waters.  The  ladies  thought  it  some  monster  sea  serpent.  The  men 
believed  the  monster  beds  of  salt  had  exploded  and  hoped  for  the 
best.  As  the  frantic  struggle  in  the  waters  continued,  the  bravest 
of  the  men  cautiously  tread  near  to  observe  what  particular  mam- 
moths of  the  sea  were  in  deadly  combat.  They  sought  and  found 
— it  was  merely  Sir  Knights  Gilchrist  and  Reel  trying  to  learn  how 
to  swim. 

Each  of  these  two  gentlemen  consumes  six  feet  of  space,  when 
standing  erect,  and  fortunately  for  them,  Salt  Lake  rebelled  when 
they  threw  themselves  upon  its  waters  and  refused  to  ta*ke  in  more 
than  three  feet  of  each.  They  floated  higher  than  anyone  else  and 
their  frantic  efforts  were  consequently  not  fatal  to  them. 

One  of  the  spectators  on  the  shore  was  an  Indian — not  a  Mor- 


The   Scenic  Lines,  file  D.    &  R.  G.  R.  R.  and  the"  Moffat  Road." 

AUDITORIUM    OF    THE    ROCKY    MOUNTAINS. 

I— Summit  Gray's  Peak.  2— Platte  Canyon.  3— Canyon  of  the  Grand  River.  4— Arapahoe  Peaks.  5— Famous  George- 
town Loop.  6— High  Bridge  and  Falls  in  the  Loop.  7— Marshall  Pass  and  Mount  Ouray  (showing  three  elevations  of  track). 
8— Toltec  Gorge.  9— The  City  of  Lead ville  and  Mt.  Massive.  10— Royal  Gorge,  u— Mountain  Goat.  1 2— Arapahoe  Peak 
(Colorado).  13 — Glenwood  Springs. 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE  59 

mon  Indian,  nor  one  of  the  wooden  tribe — but  a  real,  live,  fast- 
color  red  man.  His  powerful  stature  and  historic  ancestry  made 
him  a  desirable  model  for  an  amateur  lady  photographer.  As  she 
leveled  her  weapon  upon  him,  the  Indian  haughtily  objected.  His 
modesty  forbade  him  to  pose  for  a  likeness — although  he  admitted 
that  for  a  small  money  consideration  he  would  forego  the  modesty. 
As  the  lady  was  not  a  believer  in  the  commercial  in  art,  she  did  not 
take  kindly  to  the  recompense  proposed  and  continued  to  level  her 
instrument  upon  him.  With  indignation,  the  Indian  picked  up  a 
corn  cob  and  was  about  to  let  it  fly  in  the  direction  of  the  photo- 
grapher when  she  hastily  closed  her  camera  and  took  "French 
leave,"  for  more  serene  objects  of  interest. 

Every  member  of  the  party,  almost  without  exception,  took  a 
plunge  in  the  briny  waters  of  Salt  Lake.  Sir  Lee  was  timid  about 
casting  himself  upon  the  waves  owing  to  his  old  enemy — rheuma- 
tism. This  malady  often  seizes  him  and  his  sufferings  on  such 
occasions  are  not  matters  of  jest.  However,  after  repeated  invi- 
tations of  "Oh,  come  on  in  Bill — it's  fine,"  he  decided  to  take  issue 
against  his  rheumatics. 

Attiring  himself  in  a  gorgeous  bathing  suit,  he  stepped  out  of  the 
bath  house  into  the  chilly  air  and  strode  toward  the  beach.  He 
shivered  violently  and  hastened  back  and  sought  seclusion  once  more 
in  civilian  attire. 

Unfortunately,  his  rheumatics  seized  him  with  earnestness.  Every 
member  of  the  party  offered  a  remedy  via  his  throat.  The  sympathies 
of  the  ladies  were  especially  benefiting  to  him  but  it  was  only  after 
continued  inward  application  of  the  preparation  offered  him  that  aid 
was  realized.  Noting  the  kind  attention  that  was  bestowed  upon  Sir 
Lee  while  in  the  throes  of  his  affliction,  Sirs  Robert  and  Reese  soon 
became  seized  with  similar  symptoms  and  publicly  announced  that 
they  too,  were  smitten  with  rheumatics.  However,  "Bill"  not  desir- 
ing to  see  fond  attention  wasted  on  counterfeit  ailments,  secretly 
spread  the  information  that  Reese  and  Robert  were  suffering  from 
a  contagious  disease  which  often  follows  bathing  in  salty  water.  The 
two  would-be  rheumatics  at  once  became  isolated,  inasmuch  as  every- 
one fled  when  they  drew  near.  While  being  a  strong  piescnption  for 
the  two,  it  was  remarkable  how  quickly  it  effected  a  permanent  cure. 

The  inevitable  curio  store  is  found  at  Saltair  Beach  in  many  num- 
bers. The  salt  of  the  earth  and  the  salt  of  the  sea  together  with  un- 
salted  and  saltable  curios  of  all  descriptions,  make  silent  appeal  to  the 
pocketbook  of  the  visitor. 

On  the  great  pavilion  is  a  monster  dance  floor.  Here  the  "stag" 
coach  contingent  arose  to  the  height  of  the  occasion.  They  tripped 
the  light  fantastic,  and  cut  figures  in  a  manner  to  bring  them  addi- 


60  A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

tional  laurels.  Who  they  danced  with  is  not  a  matter  for  publica- 
tion, for  in  a  Mormon  country  one  must  do  as  the  Mormons  do. 

Probably  owing  to  the  stimulating  effect  of  the  brine  upon  the 
skin  or  the  saline  air  upon  the  lungs,  or  both,  our  appetites  were  great- 
ly sharpened  after  the  bath  and  we  sought  and  devoured  a  hearty 
meal. 

The  only  sad  feature  of  our  stay  at  Saltair  was  the  realization 
of  the  fact  that  "Vic"  was  to  leave  us.  The  call  to  duty,  urgent  by 
the  demands  of  business,  made  it  necessary  for  him  to  return.  His 
kindly  manner  during  his  stay  with  us  cemented  him  firmly  in  our 
affections  and  it  was  with  considerable  mutual  remorse  that  he  de- 
parted. 

We  returned  to  Salt  Lake  City  at  3  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  and 
at  once  boarded  a  "sight-seeing"  car  which  afforded  us  a  thorough 
inspection  of  the  city.  Salt  Lake  City,  which  is  often  termed  "Zion" 
by  the  Mormon  "faithful,"  has  been  so  often  and  so  thoroughly  de- 
scribed that  most  people  are  acquainted  with  the  beauties  of  the  com- 
munity. It  was  here  that  we  met  Mr.  D.  E.  Burley,  General  Pas- 
senger Agent  for  the  Oregon  Short  Line  railroad.  He  is  a  "hale 
fellow  well  met,"  cherished  by  all  that  know  him.  He  showed  our 
party  every  attention. 

The  city  is  situated  at  the  base  of  a  spur  of  the  rugged  and  beau- 
tiful Wahsatch  Mountains.  The  northern  limits  extend  to  the 
"bench"  or  uplands  which  join  the  plains  to  the  mountains.  The 
streets  are  exceptionally  wide,  being  132  feet  in  width,  including  side- 
walks 20  feet  wide,  and  are  beautified  and  made  comfortable  by  nu- 
merous shade  trees.  Along  each  side  of  the  streets  runs  a  clear, 
cool  stream  of  water,  supplied  from  the  mountain  canyons.  These 
rivulets,  together  with  gardens  and  fruit  and  shade  trees  with  which 
the  residences  are  supplied,  gives  the  city  an  indescribable  air  of  com- 
fort and  repose  and  lends  the  enchantment  of  rural  life  within  city 
limits. 

In  July  1847,  when  the  sight  of  the  present  city  was  a  desert 
region,  Brigham  Young,  after  being  driven  from  Nauvoo,  on  the 
Mississippi,  brought  his  first  Mormon  colony  across  the  plains  and 
mountains  and  landed  his  band  of  143  followers  on  the  ground 
which  was  destined  to  become  Salt  Lake  City.  They  organized 
the  State  of  Deseret  which  afterward  became  a  territory  of  the 
United  States. 

By  prodigious  labors  in  constructing  irrigation  canals  bring- 
ing down  the  mountain  streams,  the  Mormons  made  the  soil  pro- 
ductive and  changed  the  desert  into  one  of  the  most  fertile  val- 
leys in  the  country.  Almost  the  complete  flow  of  the  Jordan  River 
is  thus  used  for  irrigation  purposes.  Colonies  and  proselytes  were 


SALT    LAKE    CITY,    UTAH. 


i — Wahsatch  Mountains.  2 — Moonlight  on  Salt  Lake.  3 — West  Shore  Antelope  Island,  Salt  Lake.  4 — Cliffs  of  Gunnison 
Island,  Salt  Lake,  and  trestle  of  the  "  Ogden-Lucin  Cut-off."  5 — Pelicon  Bay,  Salt  Lake.  6 — Black  Rock,  Salt  Lake.  7— 
Temple  Square  (  Assembly  Hall,  Tabernacle  and  Temple  ).  8 — Tabernacle  Organ.  9— Mormon  colony  crossing  the  plains 
(  1847  ).  10 — Saltair  from  the  Beach. 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE  61 

gathered  from  all  sections  of  the  world  until  200,000  Mormons  were 
located  in  Utah. 

After  protracted  conflicts  with  the  government,  polygamy  was 
declared  illegal  and  its  discontinuance  was  ordered  by  a  proclama- 
tion of  the  Mormon  president.  In  Salt  Lake  City  alone,  it  is  said 
the  Latter  Day  Saints  and  Gentiles  together  exceed  50,000. 

Extensive  mining  interests  in  the  nearby  country  afford  much 
revenue  to  the  city.  The  lofty  Wasatch  Mountains  loom  up  im- 
pressively on  the  northern  and  eastern  sides  of  the  city,  while  to 
the  south,  rising  beyond  a  stretch  of  100  miles  of  plains,  is  a  mag- 
nificent range  of  snow-covered  mountains,  offering  an  awe-inspir- 
ing view  from  all  portions  of  the  city. 

As  the  guide  called  our  attention  to  the  various  handsome 
residences  there  was  one  invariable  query  on  our  part — "How  many 
wives  has  he?"  The  guide  took  the  question  goodnaturedly 
but  pleaded  ignorance  of  the  official  count. 

After  a  tour  of  the  city,  natural  curiosity  made  us  eager  to  get 
a  peep  "over  the  garden  wall"  which  encloses  the  "Temple  Square" 
adorned  by  the  three  main  edifices  of  the  Latter  Day  Saints,  whose 
particular  architecture  is  of  general  knowledge. 

"Temple  Square,"  which  is  the  sacred  square  of  the  Mormons, 
forms  the  hub  of  all  the  streets  in  the  city,  which  are  laid  out 
toward  the  four  cardinal  points  of  the  compass.  Safely  guarded 
behind  a  high  wall,  stands  the  great  granite  Mormon  Temple  which 
was  40  years  in  building  and  which  cost  $4,000,000.  Three  point- 
ed towers  grace  each  end,  the  loftiest  of  which  is  surmounted  by 
a  gilded  figure  of  the  Mormon  angel,  Moroni. 

Within  the  "garden  wall"  is  also  the  Mormon  Tabernacle,  a 
high,  oval-shaped  structure  whose  roof  is  rounded  like  a  turtle 
back.  It  has  a  seating  capacity  of  8,000  within  its  walls,  which 
stretch  250  feet  from  east  to  west  and  150  feet  from  north  to  south. 
The  roof  is  supported  by  46  columns  of  sandstone.  From  these 
pillars,  or  walls,  the  roof  springs  in  one  unbroken  arch,  forming 
a  large,  self-sustaining  house  top.  The  ceiling  rises  63  feet  above 
the  floor  and  has  wonderful  acoustic  properties. 

At  the  west  end  of  the  tabernacle  is  situated  a  great  organ,  one 
of  the  largest  in  America.  Seats  about  the  organ  accommodate  a 
chorus  of  550  singers.  After  listening  to  an  organ  recital,  we  were 
given  a  demonstration  of  the  wonderful  acoustic  properties  of  the 
building.  A  whisper,  and  even  the  dropping  of  a  pin,  was  clearly 
audible  at  a  distance  of  over  200  feet. 

"Assembly  Hall"  is  a  stone  structure  of  less  pretention  and  is 
devoted  to  the  deliberations  of  the  church  potentates.  The  grounds 
about  the  buildings  are  beautifully  parked,  while  a  statue  of  Brig- 


62  A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

ham  Young  who  designed  and  laid  the  corner-stone  of  the  temple, 
stands  within  the  shadow  of  that  edifice. 

Upon  going  eastward  from  the  south  entrance  of  the  square, 
we  entered  the  "Tithing  Yard"  and  church  offices.  The  "Lion" 
and  "Bee  Hive"  houses  are  then  encountered  while  opposite  stands 
the  "Amelia  Palace"  erected  by  Brigham  Young  for  his  favorite 
helpmate.  Nearby  is  "Eagle  Gate,"  the  entrance  to  Young's  for- 
mer spacious  private  grounds,  recently  reconstructed  by  the  city 
government. 

Immediately  north  and  east  of  "Eagle  Gate"  is  the  grave  of 
Brigham  Young,  where,  surrounded  by  several  of  his  wives,  he 
sleeps  beneath  an  unpretentious  granite  slab. 

Following  dinner,  we  strolled  about  town,  touring  the  princi- 
pal streets.  The  shops,  stores  and  business  houses  were  closed 
for  the  most  part,  and  the  city  was  at  rest.  Illumination  was  poor 
and  far  below  that  of  the  average  city.  Few  streets  lamps  were 
lit  and  those  that  were  burned  low.  Beyond  the  business  district 
no  lights  disturbed  the  peaceful  tranquility  and  the  aspect  did  not 
appeal  kindly  to  us.  We  almost  neglected  to  mention  that  in  our 
tour  of  inspection  to-day,  we  saw  a  wash  line  with  a  sheriff  sale 
stock  of  long  wet  hose — looks  suspicious.  Why  not  one  flag,  one 
country  and  one  wife?  Matrimony  is  a  good  thing  but  it  can  be 
and  is  overdone. 

Shortly  we  returned  to  the  hotel,  rested  for  an  hour  or  two, 
and  then  wended  our  way  through  the  dark  thoroughfares  to  the 
depot  of  the  Oregon  Short  Line  Railroad. 

Our  "special"  was  in  waiting  as  usual.  Its  contrasting  bright- 
ness and  cheerfulness  greeted  us  invitingly.  The  feeling  of  com- 
fort and  "glad  to  be  home  again"  pervaded  every  pilgrim  in  the 
party.  At  9  o'clock  we  were  speeding  away  for  a  night's  ride  to 
Monida,  Mont.,  which  is  the  starting  point  for  that  eventful,  ardu- 
ous, stupendous  and  soul-gratifying  stage  ride  of  one  week,  through 
the  Yellowstone  National  Park. 

The  night  aboard  the  train  offered  no  special  incidents,  any 
further  than  the  general  activity  in  gathering  together  and  pack- 
ing articles  of  clothing  and  necessities  for  the  one  week's  tour 
through  the  great  Yellowstone  National  Park.  This  journey  which 
we  were  to  enter  upon  in  the  morning,  was  anticipated  as  one  of 
the  most  important  epochs  of  our  transcontinental  tour.  With  this 
in  mind,  all  retired  early  to  free  the  mind  from  excitement  and 
prepare  the  physical  for  the  grand,  strenuous  expedition  to  come. 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE  63 


CHAPTER  VII. 

LL  night  we  rode  north  through  the  state  of  Idaho,  arriv- 
ing at  Monida,  Montana,  at  8  o'clock  in  the  morning.  Monida, 
which  is  one  of  the  gateways  of  the  railroad  to  the  Yellowstone 
National  Park,  is  situated  in  a  broad,  low  pass  on  the  crest  of 
the  main  range  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  which  forms  the  boundary 
line  between  the  states  of  Montana  and  Idaho — hence  the  name — 
Mon-Ida. 

So  well  had  we  prepared  ourselves  and  so  thoroughly  had  all 
been  impressed  with  the  fact  that  there  must  be  no  delay,  that 
everybody  was  ready  to  board  the  coaches  in  waiting  when  we 
arrived  at  Monida.  The  ladies  were  punctual  and  as  we  left  our 
"special"  promptly  at  8  o'clock  on  this  calm1  and  fair  Friday  morn- 
ing, August  26,  there  was  no  occasion  for  the  slightest  delay. 

Stepping  from  the  cars,  we  stood  face  to  face  with  the  stren- 
uous life  of  the  west,  which  is  so  strongly  advocated  by  Presi- 
dent Roosevelt.  A  string  of  two  and  four  horse  Concord  coaches  of 
the  Monida  and  Yellowstone  Stage  Company  were  awaiting  to  carry 
us  to  the  threshold  of  the  National  Park. 

The  fiery  mustangs  were  prancing  and  rearing  in  wild  excite- 
ment for  the  start.  Their  drivers — men  who  have  been  reared  among 
the  mustangs  and  know  and  love  them  and  place  a  confidence  in 
them  that  they  would  ne'er  repose  in  man;  men  who  believe  in 
swearing  by  their  horse  and  against  mankind — they,  too,  were  im- 
patient for  the  start.  The  excitement  that  pervaded  the  rearing, 
frothing,  plunging  horses,  also  influenced  them,  and  they  were  eager 
to  get  started  and  above  all,  to  be  in  the  lead  and  stay  there. 

The  sight  of  the  stage  coaches,  the  nervous  mustangs  and  im- 
patient drivers,  together  with  the  realization  that  our  good,  old, 
faithful  and  ever-inviting  "special"  was  to  be  left  for  a  week  and 
the  knowledge  of  the  fact  that  we  were  about  to  enter  upon  an  ex- 
pedition within  an  expedition,  keyed  the  pilgrims  up  to  almost  the 
same  height  of  excitement  that  pervaded  everything  about  us. 

Lustily  we  cheered  and  yelled  farewells  and  bon  voyages  to 
one  another  and  to  the  "special"  as  we  entered  the  coaches  to 
wMch  each  had  br.en  assigned.  It  was  worth  a  life-time  of  C'ty 
toiling  to  perch  in  the  fore-top  with  the  driver  and  see  the  mustangs 
in  the  long  line  of  coaches  scamper  under  the  sharp  snapping  of  the 


64  A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

whip  which  was  continuously  swept  over  them  with  the  skill  of 
the  men  of  the  plains,  but  which  never  touched  or  cut  the  animals. 

It  was  indeed  heavenly  to  scan  the  blue  distances  of  a  world 
that  knew  no  monarchs  but  us;  to  cleave  the  winds  with  uncovered 
heads  and  feel  the  sluggish  pulses  rousing  to  the  spirit  of  a  speed 
almost  that  of  the  resistless  rush  of  the  typhoon. 

Our  coaches  were  off  like  a  pack  of  well  trained  hounds  on 
the  hot  scent.  Whips  cracked,  horses  leaped  into  the  air,  drivers 
swore  and  emphatically  declared  another  half  hour  would  see  them 
in  front.  Those  in  the  first  coach  could  see  the  other  coaches 
hurrying  in  the  background  through  little  clouds  of  dust  of  their 
own  creation.  Those  in  the  rear  observed  the  little  line  of  dots 
ahead,  each  coach  making  its  location  better  known  as  does  the 
cannon  on  the  battlefield — with  a  puff  of  smoke. 

The  horses  were  faithful  and  the  drivers  were  justly  proud  of 
them.  The  noble  animals  would  bowl  along  on  the  edge  of  the 
steep  hill  at  a  reasonable  trot  but  when  they  again  entered  the  level 
they  did  it  with  a  frenzy  born  of  the  ceaseless  whip  cracking,  which 
resounded  like  volleys  of  musketry. 

They  tore  through  the  narrow  paths,  over  rocks,  and  were  un- 
mindful of  any  obstacles  that  might  lie  in  the  path.  Around  sharp 
curves  they  flew,  showering  their  volleys  as  they  went,  while  be- 
fore us  swept  a  continuous  tidal  wave  of  golfers  on  the  dust  and 
desert  land.  Far  ahead  we  had  the  admiring  gaze  of  the  coaches 
way  off  in  the  lead. 

On  and  on  we  rushed.  Every  driver  strained  to  the  utter- 
most in  his  frantic  endeavors  to  make  another  breathe  the  dust  of 
his  coach.  "Look  out  there,  Dick!  That  fellow  in  the  rear  wants 
to  pass  us!"  shouts  someone. 

"Can't  do  it!"  yells  the  driver  in  tones  of  determination,  as  he 
rises  in  his  seat  and  slashes  forward  with  a  long  lash  of  his  whip. 
On  and  on  we  thundered,  regardless  of  the  coach  road.  Across  ditches, 
up  and  down,  over  rocks  and  mounds  and  often  running  on  but  two 
side  wheels,  we  surged  round  curve  after  curve,  seldom  relaxing  speed. 

Ever  on  we  rushed  as  our  driver  passed  the  coach  which  but 
a  short  time  ago,  was  two  miles  in  the  lead.  A  cheer  from  each 
coach  as  we  passed  rent  the  air  and  lent  further  incentive  and  re- 
newed vigor  to  the  fearless  drivers.  With  a  word  of  encourage- 
ment to  the  horses,  followed  by  the  relentless  smack  of  the  whip- 
lash, "Dick"  kept  up  the  pace,  determined  to  retain  his  position  in 
the  ranks.  Looking  behind,  we  saw  clouds  of  dust  each  a  half- 
mile  apart,  marking  the  location  of  the  train  of  coaches. 

Presently  we  reached  a  relay  station  in  the  Centennial  Valley. 
Here  fresh  horses  awaited  us.  Quickly  releasing  two  of  the 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE  65 

most  wearied  mustangs,  they  were  replaced  by  well-rested  animals. 
For  a  time,  travel  was  more  difficult  and  with  less  speed,  owing  to 
the  continual  but  gradual  ascent.  As  we  passed  the  backbone  of 
the  rise  and  gained  the  level  road  once  more,  the  drivers  surpassed 
their  previous  efforts  and  gave  full  vent  to  their  shouts  and  urgings 
to  the  faithful  mustangs,  who  responded  gamely  while  the  rush  and 
clatter  once  more  resounded  throughout  the  hills  and  valleys. 

Despite  the  fact  that  this  section  of  the  journey  offered  numer- 
ous abrupt  turns  on  a  sharply  descending  grade,  the  horses  madly 
galloped  their  way  onward,  unmindful  of  the  thrills  and  anxiety 
of  the  passengers  who  were  experiencing  anything  but  a  comfort- 
able frame  of  mind.  The  turns  in  the  road  were  taken  with  "dare- 
devil" abruptness.  We  seemed  to  be  spinning  round  the  rings  of 
a  whirlwind  or  like  liquor  flowing  down  the  spiral  of  a  corkscrew. 

The  driver  informed  us  that  it  would  be  to  our  best  interests 
to  be  among  the  first  to  arrive  at  Lakeview  for  luncheon ;  "but," 
he  added,  impressively  "be  not  disturbed — remain  tranquil — give 
yourselves  no  uneasiness — the  dust  of  the  other  coaches  rises  far  be- 
hind— leave  all  to  me." 

Down  came  his  whip  as  a  final  climax.  The  mustangs  bound- 
ed in  their  harness  in  response,  and  fairly  lifted  the  coach  from  the 
ground!  In  an  instant  we  were  assured  that,  at  least,  two  wheels 
had  returned  to  earth.  Never  before  had  we  experienced  such  a 
shaking  up.  Recent  flooding  rains  had  washed  the  roads  entirely 
clear,  here  and  there,  but  we  never  stopped  or  slackened  the  pace 
for  anything.  Over  ditches,  over  rocks,  across  fallen  trees,  without 
the  least  sign  of  hesitation,  the  mustangs  wildly  plunged.  Rubbish, 
driftwood,  and  gulleys  that  lay  in  the  road  offered  no  fear  for  ani- 
mals or  drivers. 

Occasionally,  the  calm,  good4natured  madman  on  the  coach 
top,  would  bend  a  majestic  look  over  his  shoulder  at  his  passengers, 
and  remark:  "Ah,  you  perceive?  It  is  as  I  have  said,  we  shall  ar- 
rive for  luncheon  before  it  is  ready  for  us." 

Whenever  we  appeared  to  have  missed  being  hurled  into  de- 
struction in  our  mad  flight,  the  driver  would  gracefully  turn  about 
and  in  sarcastic  amusement  say:  "Enjoy  it,  gentlemen;  it  is  very 
rare ;  it  is  very  unusual ;  it  is  given  to  only  a  few  to  ride  in  this 
racy,  fascinating  fashion." 

The  "King"  was  as  good  as  his  word — he  overtook  each  one  of 
the  coaches  in  the  long  procession  and  passed  them  like  a  hurricane. 
As  a  result,  we  arrived  at  Lakeview  Inn,  washed  up  and  had  the 
pleasure  of  greeting  the  travelers  on  the  other  coaches  as  they  filed 
in  one  by  one. 

We  remained  at  the  Inn  but  forty  minutes.    The  establishment 

(6) 


66 

is  well  kept  and  was  a  revelation,  inasmuch  as  the  comfort  it  af- 
forded was  not  anticipated  in  such  a  remote  country  district.  It 
need  scarcely  be  said  that  we  were  hungry — the  word  fails  to  ex- 
press the  sensation  we  felt.  The  meal  was  heartily  enjoyed  and 
we  neglected  nothing  on  the  menu.  Lakeview  derives  its  name 
from  a  lake  which  lies  in  the  lap  of  the  valley  at  this  point  and  the 
green  mountain  slopes  afforded  us  the  first  glimpse  of  grass  for 
many  miles. 

During  our  short  stay  at  Lakewood  Inn,  the  pilgrims  took 
advantage  of  the  opportunity  to  hold  a  short  session,  so  as  to  in- 
form the  several  coaching  parties  what  particular  experience  they 
had  encountered  in  their  particular  stage  ride.  Fortunately,  only 
two  fatalities  were  reported. 

In  the  first  instance,  Sir  Wayne  Gilland  was  the  victim,  and 
if  it  were  not  for  some  "Good  Man  Friday"  he  might  still  be  en- 
acting Robinson  Crusoe  in  the  wilds  of  the  Yellowstone  Park 
region.  While  the  coach,  which  bore  him)  rapidly  to  Lakeview 
was  in  the  highest  point  of  action,  it  struck  a  rise  in  the  roadway 
without  ceremony  or  formal  introduction.  Gilland  sat  on  top  of  the 
coach  and  as  the  vehicle  attempted  to  pass  the  rock  unnoticed — 
inclined  at  an  angle  of  45  degrees — Gilland  was  tilted  the  other 
way.  In  other  words,  while  the  stage  showed  signs  of  lying  down 
on  its  right  side,  Gilland  pulled  the  other  way  and  the  division  of 
opinion  led  to  a  division  of  company — Gilland  fell  off  the  coach-top. 

Amid  the  clashing  of  the  mustangs'  hoofs,  the  yells  of  the 
driver  and  the  report  of  the  whip  lash,  any  announcement  that  Gil- 
land  might  have  made  was  lost  in  the  air.  Fortunately,  another 
member  of  the  party  noted  our  brother  Sir  Knight's  hasty  and  sud- 
den departure  and  induced  the  driver  to  halt  long  enough  to  gather 
him  in.  Happily,  Sir  Gilland  was  uninjured  and  now  glories  in  the 
distinction  that  he  is  the  only  member  of  our  party  who  saw  that 
country  during  "the  fall,"  and  declares  that  he  was  more  deeply 
touched  by  nature  in  that  vicinity  than  any  of  his  brother  Sir 
Knights. 

The  second  fatality  occurred  on  the  coach  which  brought  Sir 
Flechsig  to  Lakeview,  and  he  was  the  particular  sufferer.  While 
his  coach  was  bounding  over  obstacles  in  the  road  without  the 
least  sign  of  abatement,  he  experienced  a  great  feeling  of  unrest — 
he  couldn't  retain  his  seat  with  any  degree  of  comfort  and  still  re- 
tain the  dignity  of  wearing  a  hat.  He  has  two  strong  and  healthy 
hands,  but  no  more.  One  he  applied  to  keep  his  head  in  touch 
with  his  hat  and  the  other  he  grasped  about  the  coach  seat  to  keep 
his  trousers  in  touch  with  the  coach.  The  latter  undertaking  be- 
came more  and  more  difficult  as  the  coach  rose  high  in  the  air  after 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 


67 


leaping  over  each  successive  obstacle  in  the  roadway.  Sir  Flech- 
sig,  after  deep  mental  research,  conceived  a  wonderful  scientific 
deduction.  When  the  coach  bounded  upward  he  would  grasp  the 
seat  firmly  with  BOTH  hands  and  retain  his  seat.  When  the  coach 
was  about  to  drop  suddenly,  he  would  grasp  his  hat  with  BOTH 
hands  and  retain  the  friendly  and  close  relation  between  it  and  his 
head.  Sad  to  relate,  however,  the  coach  took  one  particular  hurdle 
with  such  speed  and  uncertainty  of  action  as  to  shatter  Sir  Her- 


68  A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

man's  theory — he  grasped  the  seat  instead  of  the  hat  and  his  head- 
gear was  left  to  the  mercies  of  the  breeze.  It  took  considerable 
persuasion  to  induce  the  driver  to  believe  that  Sir  Herman  had  neces- 
sity for  his  headgear  which  was  then  sporting  with  the  wind  on  the 
plains  but  with  considerable  reluctance  the  "Ben  Hur"  of  the  coach 
agreed  to  wait  five  minutes  for  a  searching  party  to  go  after  the 
hat.  Their  efforts  proved  successful  and  they  returned  shortly 
with  the  trophy  of  the  chase. 

After  our  short  but  pleasant  stay  at  Lakeview  Inn,  we  again 
departed  on  our  strenuous  career.  We  were  impatient  to  get 
away  and  we  were  not  sorry  when  the  time  arrived  to  start,  for  we 
were  destined  to  ride  another  40  miles  before  the  day's  end. 

On  we  went,  climbing  higher  and  higher,  curving  hither  and 
thither,  in  the  shade  of  noble  woodland  and  with  a  rich  variety 
and  profusion  of  wild  flowers  growing  all  about  us.  Glimpses  of 
rounded  grassy  hills  occupied  by  a  few  cattle,  lazily  nipping,  were 
seen  far  below,  while  down  in  the  lower  valleys  others  could  be 
seen  as  if  in  diminutive  miniature.  Every  now  and  then  some  ermined 
monarch  of  the  mountain  swung  magnificently  into  view  for  a  moment, 
then  drifted  past  some  intervening  spur,  only  to  disappear  again  as 
we  continued  in  our  course. 

The  drive  throughout  was  soul-stirring;  the  exceeding  sense  of 
satisfaction  that  follows  a  good  meal  added  largely  to  our  enjoyment, 
as  did  the  keen  anticipation  of  something  to  look  forward  to  in  the 
grandeurs  which  were  promised  in  the  geysers,  hot  springs,  canyons 
and  other  assets  of  The  Yellowstone  National  Park,  sharpened  the 
zest.  Smoking  was  never  before  so  satisfying;  solid  comfort  was 
never  more  solid,  as  we  lay  back  against  the  cushions  of  the  coach, 
silent,  meditative,  steeped  in  felicity. 

While  we  sat  in  silent  thought,  viewing  the  beauties  in  the 
mountain  passes  and  breathing  the  pure  and  rarified  air,  Sir  D.  B. 
Watson,  who  had  been  dozing,  rubbed  his  eyes,  opened  them  and 
then  straightened  himself  up  as  if  startled.  He  had  been  dreaming 
he  was  at  sea  and  to  find  land  all  about  him  was  somewhat  of  a  sur- 
prising revelation.  It  took  "Davie"  several  seconds  to  "come  to." 

Meanwhile  the  horses  were  galloping  on  and  the  driver  was 
whistling  the  air  of  some  familiar  Bohemian  opera.  Sir  William 
S.  Watson  was  asleep  at  "Davie's"  side,  while  another  wayfarer  on 
the  top  of  the  coach  was  sleeping  and  baking  in  the  sun,  with  folded 
arms  and  bowed  head.  "Davie"  tried  to  identify  his  companions  but 
could  not.  Try  as  he  would,  time  and  time  again,  to  call  them  by 
name,  he  erred  in  every  instance  and  smiled  at  his  failures.  It  was 
some  little  time  before  he  could  actually  and  rightly  designate  his 
old  acquaintances. 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE  69 

Realizing  that  he  had  missed  much  of  the  rich  scenic  advantages 
of  the  trip,  during  his  hour's  sleep,  "Davie"  chided  himself  and  prof- 
iting by  his  own  loss,  woke  up  his  brother  and  took  him  to  task 
for  neglecting  the  scenery  while  in  slumber.  Then  Sir  William,  in- 
stead of  showing  signs  of  humiliation,  upbraided  "Davie"  for  being 
so  wanting  in  vigilance.  He  announced  that  he  had  looked  forward 
to  the  trip  for  many  months  and  had  especially  anticipated  a  rich 
treat  in  the  drive  to  Yellowstone  National  Park,  but  that  a  man 
might  travel  to  the  end  of  the  earth  with  him  and  never  see  anything. 
He  held  that  he  was  manifestly  endowed  with  the  very  genius  of  ill 
luck. 

Thus  we  drove  quietly  along  for  several  miles,  dead  to  the  se- 
ductions of  the  bewildering  array  of  scenery,  but  we  entirely  re- 
covered our  spirits  when  the  coach  bounded  over  a  high  rock  in  the 
roadway  and  we  all  woke  up. 

Presently  we  halted  and  partook  of  cool,  clear  mountain  water 
and  felt-  considerably  refreshed.  As  we  continued  upon  our  journey 
and  sped  along  the  base  of  the  steep  mountains,  we  marveled  not  at 
the  many  tracks  of  avalanches  that  had  occurred  but  because  of  the 
fact  that  they  are  not  occurring  all  the  time.  One  cannot  under- 
stand why  rocks  and  landslides  are  not  constantly  plunging  down 
these  declivities.  Here  and  there  can  be  seen  the  effects  of  snow 
slides  which  left  broad  and  naked  paths,  some  of  which  are  a  mile 
in  length  and  a  thousand  feet  wide.  As  the  snow  breaks  under  its 
own  weight  from  the  cliffs  many  thousand  feet  high,  and  hurls  it- 
self into  the  valleys  below,  it  cuts  its  path  as  cleanly  and  sharply  as 
the  surveyor  could  conceive.  The  mountain  side  is  thickly  covered 
with  growing  timber  but  where  a  slide  has  occurred  trees  have  been 
swept  out  of  the  path.  Here  and  there  a  fallen  tree  has  been  caught 
and  lodged,  but  at  the  bottom  is  one  conglomerate  mass  of  timber 
scattered  in  wild  confusion.  The  path  of  the  snow  slide  has  the 
appearance  of  a  single  cut  with  the  clippers  through  the  heavy  wool 
of  a  sheep,  exposing  to  view  a  streak  of  nakedness. 

We  traveled  under  a  sweltering  sun  and  always  saw  the  shade 
leave  the  shady  places  before  we  could  get  to  them.  We  had  a  par- 
ticularly hot  time  that  particular  afternoon.  Possibly  the  only  com- 
fort we  found  was  in  the  knowledge  of  the  fact  that  among  the  trees 
in  the  little  shady  nooks,  initials,  monograms  and  names  of  cities 
were  carved  in  the  bark  by  others  who  had  traveled  the  same  road 
before  us. 

Shortly  we  ran  straight  up  a  hillside  where  we  could  see  moun- 
tains more  than  100  miles  away.  We  re-crossed  the  divide  at  Targhe 
Pass  and  the  whip-lash-like  road  thereto.  The  rock-dog  which  is 
but  the  translated  prairie-dog,  broke  across  the  road  under  the  feet 


70  A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

of  our  horses.  The  rabbit  and  the  chipmunk  danced  with  fright. 
We  heard  the  splashing  of  the  Snake  River  and  as  we  whirled  around 
a  curve  we  faced  the  water  but  saw  no  bridge.  Dauntlessly  the 
horses  carried  us  through  the  stream  while  the  water  reached  the 
very  bed  of  the  coaches  and  seemed  to  float  them  to  aid  the  animals 
who  were  submerged  up  to  their  necks.  It  was  a  thrilling  experience 
and  the  noble  mustangs  seemed  to  swim  as  they  carried  the  vehicles 
along.  Reaching  the  opposite  side,  the  drivers  applied  the  whip 
once  more  as  they  stood  up  in  their  seats,  and  with  a  furious  dash, 
we  mounted  the  steep  river  bank  while  the  passengers  feared  an 
upsetting  at  every  instant. 

Up  the  hill  we  clamored,  then  round  a  curve,  up  another  steep 
incline,  down  another  valley  and  once  more  we  flew  across  the  level 
and  over  several  plank  bridges  that  spanned  the  gullies.  The  planks 
squeaked  and  shifted  from  their  positions  as  we  bounded  over  them. 

Before  us  lay  a  straight  road  for  three  miles  or  more.  In  the  fore- 
ground, at  a  distance  of  about  60  miles,  we  observed  a  high  range 
of  mountains  of  inky  blackness.  Dark  clouds  were  overhanging 
while  lightning  played  about  the  peaks  and  mountain  side  like 
tangled  silver  threads  dropping  from  the  skies.  The  mountains  were 
shrouded  in  darkest  gloom  while  about  us  the  day  was  fair.  The 
scene  of  a  thunder  storm  in  the  distance  was  a  most  interesting 
spectacle  and  as  we  gazed  we  viewed,  as  it  were,  the  atmospheric  con- 
ditions of  a  distant  and  far-off  region. 

The  road  turned  and  we  rattled  along  into  Madison  Basin  to  an 
inn  on  the  western  edge  of  the  reservation.  It  was  just  about  sun- 
set when  we  had  concluded  the  trip  of  70  (some  say  more)  miles 
from  Monida,  in  11  hours. 

This  hostelry,  if  it  may  be  graced  by  such  a  name,  lies  at  the 
very  outer  edge  of  Yellowstone  National  Park  proper.  Everything 
within  the  park  is  conducted  under  Government  care  and  supervision 
but  this  inn  not  being  within  the  limits  of  the  park,  is  a  strictly 
private  enterprise — although  literally  speaking  there  was  little  en- 
terprise about  it. 

As  the  first  coach  drew  up,  we  were  met  by  a  tyranical  sentinel 
in  the  form  of  over  six  feet  of  man,  attired  in  a  rough-and-ready 
corduroy  suit  and  upon  whose  head  was  saucily  perched  a  large, 
broad-brimmed  sombrero  hat.  We  learned  later  that  this  pirate  was 
the  "manager ;"  a  man  from  out  of  the  east  who  had  affected  all  the 
swagger,  bullishness  and  arrogance  which  is  so  often  attributed  to 
the  man  of  the  western  plains,  but  which  is  rarely  found  in  him. 

He  met  the  occupants  of  the  first  coach  with  the  greatest  indif- 
ference and  lack  of  hospitality.  When  the  fact  was  made  known  to 
him  that  the  pilgrims  sought  shelter  for  the  night,  he  seemed  bored 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE  71 

and  made  the  blunt  announcement  that  we  would  be  compelled  to 
sleep  in  tents.  This  was  roundly  resented.  The  inn  whose  purpose 
it  was  to  accommodate  travelers  to  the  park,  but  which  is  anything 
but  accommodating,  consisted  of  one  double  log  building  and  a  single 
log  hut,  crude  and  unartistically  built. 

We  denounced  the  manager  for  his  endeavors  to  corral  us,  as  he 
would  cattle,  and  after  a  lengthy  and  animated  argument,  in  which 
some  plain  truths  were  told  him,  he  decided  to  "place  us"  under  roof. 
As  the  other  coaches  rolled  in,  the  manager  became  more  and  more 
agitated,  realizing  that  he  would  have  duties  to  perform.  It  was 
with  the  greatest  difficulty  that  our  party  was  placed  and  this  was 
not  accomplished  until  four  or  more  persons  were  placed  in  a  room, 
which  could  not  comfortably  accommodate  one  person. 

Naturally  we  arrived  hungry  after  our  long  ride  and  made  ap- 
plication for  dinner.  After  a  tiresome  wait,  we  were  told  that  the 
banquet  hall  was  in  readiness,  but  owing  to  the  limited  room,  only 
a  restricted  number  (about  10)  could  be  "fed"  at  a  time.  The  party 
had  gathered  in  the  office  of  the  double  log  house  and  as  the  an- 
nouncement of  dinner  came,  we  were  directed  to  pass  through  a  nar- 
row dark  hallway  which  had  as  many  valleys  and  dales  in  it  as  the 
road  over  which  we  had  driven.  As  the  hungry  pilgrims  passed 
cautiously  through  the  treacherous  and  uncertain  passageway,  we 
were  met  at  the  end  by  a  guard  who  allowed  but  a  certain  number 
to  enter  into  the  dining-room  when  at  his  pleasure,  he  defiantly 
slammed  the  door  and  bolted  it  in  the  face  of  the  invading  party. 

Notwithstanding  our  cold  reception,  we  went  to  the  table  eager 
and  hungry.  The  number  of  dishes  provided  were  amply  sufficient 
but  it  was  the  monotonous  variety  of  unstriking  dishes  that  amused 
us. 

As  we  waded  through  the  menu,  our  appetites  slackened, 
whether  because  of  natural  or  unnatural  causes  would  be  unfair  to 
state.  Perhaps  if  the  slabs  of  alleged  roast  beef,  which  some  iden- 
tified as  mustang  flesh  were  brought  on  the  table  and  carved  in  full 
view  of  the  audience,  a  truer  sense  of  earnestness  and  reality  might 
have  been  added.  The  meat  aroused  much  enthusiasm  owing  to  its* 
armor-proof  qualities,  and  the  stronger  of  the  men  broke  up  several 
slices  for  the  benefit  of  the  ladies.  We  met  the  weary  and  wayworn 
steak,  or  to  be  more  correct,  a  broiled  barn-hinge,  with  gravy  on  it, 
that  bore  the  tooth  prints  of  other  guests  who  are  now  in  a  land 
where  the  pirate  manager  will  have  a  hard  time  entering. 

Among  other  things,  we  were  given  what  the  inn  keeper  thought 
was  coffee.  It  must  be  admitted  in  all  truth,  that  the  liquid  was 
within  several  shades  of  the  real  thing,  but  in  taste  it  was  as  near 
coffee  as  hypocrisy  is  to  holiness.  It  was  feeble,  characterless  and 


72  A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

uninspiring.  Milk  which  did  a  sister  act  with  coffee  on  the  vaude- 
ville menu,  caused  a  "stay  of  proceedings ;"  several  flies  swam  in 
the  pitcher.  The  waiter  threw  in  his  life  preserver  and  drowned 
them.  It  very  much  resembled  whitewash.  The  bread — fair  enough, 
good  enough  after  a  fashion,  but  cold,  and  tough  and  unsympathetic. 

Next,  the  butter,  the  sham  and  tasteless  butter;  it  worked  the 
pump  handle  at  daytime  and  slept  under  the  coaches  at  night.  There 
was  no  salt  in  it,  but  what  was  in  it  will  ever  remain  one  of  the 
great  mysteries  of  the  yellowstone  region. 

Then  we  had  dessert — berries.  Poor  lonesome  berries.  It  was  a 
mean  advantage  to  partake  of  them,  for  they  had  long  lost  the  glow 
of  youth  and  were  in  the  last  stages  of  decay.  Probably  the  stone 
hearted  manager  was  even  moved  to  sympathy  as  he  looked  into  the 
care-worn  faces  of  those  berries,  for  they  were  doled  out  with  care 
and  scrutiny  which  could  not  otherwise  be  accomplished  than  by  the 
use  of  jewelers'  scales.  The  grapes  were  fair,  but  frequently  through 
neglect  on  the  part  of  the  waiter,  a  tolerably  good  "peach"  was 
found. 

At  the  end  of  the  "feast"  we  were  grievously  unsatisfied ;  we  had 
plenty  of  exercise,  plenty  of  interest,  a  fine  lot  of  hopes  but  nothing 
to  eat. 

After  dinner  we  wandered  aimlessly  about  from  one  of  the  log 
shanties  to  the  other,  one  of  which  contained  a  stove.  As  we  moved 
about  in  the  arctic  atmosphere,  all  were  silent,  smileless,  forlorn  and 
shivering — thinking  perhaps,  how  foolish  we  were  to  have  come  so 
far  away  from  our  own  firesides.  Finding  the  ladies  huddled  about  a 
cold,  fireless  and  unsympathetic  stove,  Sir  William  G.  Lee  gallantly 
started  a  fire  in  this  apparently  useless  piece  of  furniture.  The  manager 
of  the  inn  at  once  interfered,  declaring  that  "it  was  hot  enough  to 
bake  beans."  Sir  Lee  agreed  that  he  had  made  it  hot  enough  to  suit 
any  guest,  but  insisted  that  the  fire  in  the  stove  remain  burning  and 
the  pirate  withdrew  in  humble  defeat  of  his  purpose. 

We  were  not  dissatisfied  with  rural  life,  or  as  the  Reverend 
Wagner  would  have  it,  "the  simple  life."  No,  in  fact  this  is  just 
what  we  would  have  appreciated  most.  We  were  willing  and  even 
anxious  for  novelty's  sake,  to  enter  into  the  simple  as  well  as  the 
strenuous  life.  But  to  be  abused,  mistreated,  denied  comforts  which 
were  readily  at  hand  by  a  tyranical  pirate  in  the  role  of  hotel  mana- 
ger, whose  methods  for  getting  all  he  could  for  nothing,  would  drive 
the  highwayman  to  blush,  was  not  only  distasteful  to  us  but  tended 
greatly  to  discourage  the  fond  hopes  we  had  anticipated  in  our  trip 
through  Yellowstone  National  Park. 

As  we  moved  about  from  one  crude  shanty  to  the  other,  we 
mentally  became  more  and  more  discouraged  and  anxiously  awaited 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE  73 

the  morrow  when  we  could  dash  into  the  wilds  of  the  great  park  and 
forget  this  place.  The  shanties  taken  as  a  whole,  looked  to  us  like 
a  skating  rink  that  had  started  out  to  make  money  and  then  sud- 
denly changed  its  mind  and  resolved  to  become  a  tannery.  The  roofs 
were  made  of  little  odds  and  ends  of  misfit  rafters  and  distorted 
shingles  that  somebody  had  purchased  at  a  sheriff's  sale  and  the 
rooms  and  stairs  were  giddy  in  the  extreme.  When  we  rambled  in 
and  around  the  cross-eyed  staircases  and  other  nightmares  till  reason 
tottered  on  her  throne,  we  came  out  and  stood  on  the  architectural 
wart,  called  the  front  porch,  to  get  fresh  air.  This  porch  was  paint- 
ed a  dull  red  and  had  wooden  rosettes  at  the  corners  that  looked  like 
a  freckle  on  the  end  of  the  nose  of  a  social  wreck. 

Further  up  on  the  demoralized  "lumber  pile"  we  saw,  now 
and  then,  places  where  the  workman's  mind  had  wandered  by  the 
too  free  use  of  "thin  skin"  and  "cut  and  dry"  and  he  had  nailed  on  his 
clapboards  wrong  side  up  and  then  painted  them  with  Paris  green  that 
was  intended  for  something  else.  It  might  have  been  constructed 
at  night  for  mental  relaxation  and  intellectual  repose,  but  for  com- 
fort, architecture  and  beauty,  the  building  was  a  gross  violation  of 
the  statutes  in  such  cases  made  and  provided  against  the  peace  and 
dignity  of  the  State.  No  one  could  look  at  it  or  sleep  within  its 
walls  without  a  feeling  of  heartache  and  the  nightmare.  Besides 
the  two  log  huts  which  comprised  the  Inn,  the  proprietor  conducted 
a  "department"  store  in  the  rear  of  the  larger  building.  This  en- 
terprise was  built,  for  the  most  part,  under  ground.  The  entrance 
led  into  what  appeared  to  be  a  dugout  and  the  further  one  entered 
into  the  store,  the  further  underground  he  would  find  himself.  There 
was  a  gruesome  mysteriousness  about  the  deranged  little  place. 
The  proprietor  of  the  inn  and  store  as  well,  remained  in  charge  of 
the  store  almost  continuously.  He  was  an  aged  man,  a  backwoods- 
man, and  while  he  was  somewhat  coarse  and  blunt  in  his  manner- 
Isms,  he  at  least,  did  not  affect  the  arrogance  and  domineering  spirit 
of  the  creature  who  posed  as  his  manager. 

In  this  store,  among  other  things,  was  a  meager  display  of  sou- 
venirs from  Yellowstone  National  Park,  consisting  of  pieces  of 
rock,  many  colored  sands,  geyser  formations  and  similar  articles. 
While  they  were  exhibited  for  the  purpose  of  sale,  the  proprietor 
was  visibly  agitated  when  a  prospective  customer  showed  an  inclina- 
tion to  purchase.  It  was  evident  that  he  felt  bored  with  the  pros- 
pect that  the  sale  of  any  souvenir  entailed  the  necessity  of  laying 
in  another  supply. 

However,  there  were  souvenirs  in  liquid  form,  which  the  proprie- 
tor was  willing  to  dispense  with  freer  hand  and  for  which  he  him- 
self was  a  willing  customer.  These  liquids  were  indeed  souvenirs, 


74  A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

for  once  purchased  they  would  leave  a  lasting*  remembrance.  They 
were  designated  by  the  prosaic  names  of  "Cut  and  Dry"  and  "Thin 
Skin."  The  proprietor  thought  so  highly  and  dearly  of  them  that 
he  kept  them  in  the  deepest  and  farthest  recesses  of  the  underground 
hovel.  To  the  very  best  of  our  knowledge,  the  manager  was  about 
the  only  person  who  had  the  least  respect  for  these  "souvenirs." 
However,  we  could  ever  remember  the  cold  comfort  and  lack  of  hos- 
pitality received  at  this  place  without  a  souvenir. 

As  the  time  came  to  retire,  we  were  handed  a  small  piece  of 
candle  with  which  to  light  ourselves  upstairs  and  into  a  small  and 
thinly  partitioned  compartment  which  was  honored  in  being  desig- 
nated as  a  "room,"  probably  called  a  room  because  there  wasn't  any. 
Two  beds  were  crowded  into  each  of  these  pigeon  holes. 

The  beds  were  also  "souvenirs,"  from  the  standpoint  that  they 
were  greatly  out  of  the  common.  In  them  were  hills  and  valleys 
and  to  be  accommodated  in  one,  the  occupant  was  compelled  to  take 
a  position,  making  his  body  conform  to  the  impression  left  by 
the  person  who  slept  there  last.  No  carpet  graced  the  floor,  a  mel- 
ancholy washstand  stood  isolated  in  the  corner.  A  dejected  pitcher 
stood  upon  it,  mourning  over  a  broken  nose.  Above  this  piece  of 
strictly  antique  furniture,  hung  the  remnant  of  a  looking-glass. 
Half  of  the  glass  was  gone  and  as  one  gazed  into  the  remaining  half, 
one's  head  was  missing  from  the  chin  up,  giving  the  appearance  of 
some  dreadful,  unfinished  object.  Stretches  of  canvas  served  as  par- 
titions separating  the  "rooms"  and  whispers  could  distinctly  be  heard 
from  one  apartment  to  another.  In  fact,  one  could  not  offer  a  prayer 
without  having  it  conflict  with  that  of  another  in  adjoining  and  distant 
rooms.  Sir  William  J.  Staiger,  who  was  dreadfully  tired,  leaned 
rather  heavily  against  the  partition  of  the  pigeon-hole  assigned  to 
him,  to  pull  off  his  shoes.  The  strain  was  too  much  for  the  parti- 
tion and  he  broke  through  it  into  the  next  "room." 

No  light  but  a  dismal  candle  illuminated  the  room.  Presently 
Sir  W.  G.  Reel  cried  out  for  the  porter  to  secure  more  light.  The 
porter,  who  was  the  son  of  the  proprietor  was  clad  in  overalls  and 
boots  and  wore  a  red  flannel  undershirt.  In  response  to  the  call,  he 
climbed  up  a  ladder  which  served  as  a  stairway,  and  as  he  crept 
along  the  dismal  hallway,  which  was  here  and  there  patched  with  a 
piece  of  wornout  oilcloth,  the  floor  sank  under  his  weight  and  the 
building  creaked  dismally  to  every  footstep.  He  carried  a  lantern 
to  guide  him  safely,  and  in  response  to  the  request  of  the  guest, 
lighted  a  two-inch  piece  of  tallow — a  sorrowful,  lean  candle  that 
burned  blue,  then  sputtered  and  got  discouraged  and  went  out. 

Undaunted,  the  porter  lighted  it  again.  Sir  Reel  asked  if  that 
was  all  the  light  he  had.  "O'h!  No,"  replied  the  porter,  who  by  the 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE  75 

way,  was  the  most  accommodating  individual  about  the  place.  "I've 
got  two  one-inch  candles  here."  Reel  said :  "Light  them  both — I'll 
have  to  have  one  to  see  the  other  by."  The  porter  did  so  but  the  re- 
sult was  drearier  than  darkness  itself.  In  a  spirit  of  confidence,  the 
porter  announced  that  he  would  go  "somewhere"  and  steal  a  lamp. 
Reel  abetted  and  encouraged  him  in  his  criminal  design. 

To  our  great  sorrow,  we  heard  that  pirate  manager  get  after  the 
porter  in  the  hallway  a  few  minutes  later.  "Where  are  you  going 
with  that  lamp?"  he  thundered. 

"Eleven  wants  it,"  timidly  replied  the  porter. 

"Eleven !  Why  he's  got  a  bunch  of  candles  now.  Does  he  want 
to  illuminate  the  house?  Does  he  want  to  get  up  a  torchlight  pro- 
cession? What  is  he  up  to  anyway?" 

"He  don't  like  them  candles.  Says  he  wants  a  lamp  and  if  he 
don't  get  it,  he'll  burn  the  shanty  down." 

"Well,  you  take  it  along  and  see  what  in  the  very  nation  he  wants 
with  a  lamp,"  and  the  tyrant  went  off  growling. 

Tired  as  we  were,  we  hesitated  as  to  whether  we  should  retire, 
considering  the  surroundings.  We  talked  at  random,  in  vain  en- 
deavor to  make  "head  or  tail"  of  the  wild  chaos  of  the  day's  sights 
and  experiences.  Our  pleasures  had  been  boundless  during  that 
day  of  rare  holiday  frolic.  Thirty  miles  of  ceaseless  rush,  rattle  and 
clatter  and  never  a  weary  moment,  never  a  lapse  of  interest.  A  score 
of  these  miles  were  over  a  level  country,  with  desert  solitudes  of  limit- 
less panoramas  and  bewildering  prospectives.  Then  we  remem- 
bered the  pleasant  stop  at  Lakeview,  following  which  we  rode  forty 
or  more  miles  over  hills  and  valleys.  Grassy  carpets  sprinkled  this 
pathway  which  was  figured  with  Nature's  own  designs. 

We  remembered  the  shadow  of  the  clouds,  crossing  the  Snake 
River.  Here  were  no  scenes  but  summer  scenes  and  no  disposition 
inspired  in  them  but  to  dreamily  smoke  the  pipe  of  peace  with  repose 
and  contentment.  The  massive  fortresses,  counterfeited  in  the  eter- 
nal rocks  and  splendid  with  the  crimson  and  gold  of  the  setting  sun; 
dizzy  altitudes  among  fog  weathered  peaks  and  never  melting  snowst 
where  thunder  and  lightning  and  tempests  warred  magnificently  far 
off  in  the  distance,  with  the  storm  clouds  that  swung  their  shredded 
banners  in  our  very  faces. 

We  subsided  to  indolent  smoking.  We  yawned  and  stretched — 
then  feebly  wondered  if  we  were  really  and  truly  on  the  border,  at 
the  very  gate,  of  the  renowned  "Yellowstone"  and  drifted  drowsily 
away  into  sleep. 


76  A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

ATURDAY  morning,  August  27,  found  a  congregation  of  early 
risers  among  the  guests  at  the  inn.  No  "Alarm  Clock"  was 
necessary  to  bring  the  pilgrims  out  of  their  beds,  although  it 
required  considerable  physical  exercise  to  arise  from  out  of  the 
deep  cast  molds,  which  previous  guests  had  created. 

The  outside  world  offered  such  a  pleasing  and  striking  contrast, 
as  the  sun  slowly  arose  in  the  horizon  to  supervise  the  movements  of 
the  day.  The  scent  of  the  pine  trees  lent  vigor  to  the  body  and  in- 
stilled ambition  into  the  soul.  The  border  of  the  Yellowstone  Park 
could  be  seen  from  the  distance  and  sharpened  our  curiosity  to  see 
the  mysteries  within. 

The  disappointments  which  were  encountered  in  arriving  at  the 
inn  the  night  before  were  momentarily  forgotten  as  we  gazed  from 
our  windows  and  realized  the  rich  pleasures  which  were  in  store  for 
the  day.  But  our  hopes  were  destined  to  again  perish  in  the  sea  of 
disappointment  and  discouragement,  at  least  for  a  time.  We  were 
again  called  to  the  dining  room ! 

Once  more  we  were  corralled  in  the  narrow  rickety  hall-way  and 
allowed  to  rush  into  the  "banquet  hall"  in  groups,  as  sheep  are 
turned  into  their  respective  pens.  We  dined  on  the  remnants  of 
that,  which  was  dignified  by  the  name  "dinner"  the  night  before. 

Promptly  at  8  o'clock  we  boarded  our  coaches  which  were  in 
waiting,  and  with  the  heartiest  of  farewells,  which  came  directly 
from  all  hearts,  we  bade  the  inn  good-bye  with  a  hope  that  we  should 
not  strike  such  an  equally  inhospitable  hostelry  during  the  re- 
mainder of  our  pilgrimage,  or  the  rest  of  our  lives. 

Refreshed  by  the  early  morning  air,  we  went  bowling  along  over 
a  hard  and  smooth  roadway,  through  all  the  summer  loveliness.  Short- 
ly we  found  the  roadways  in  excellent  condition  and  freely  sprinkled 
to  allay  the  dust.  At  once  we  realized  that  we  were  actually  within 
the  park;  for  Uncle  Sam  is  an  excellent  custodian  and  takes  particu- 
lar pride  in  caring  for  his  famous  breathing  spots. 

Once  within  the  park,  the  sights  and  scenes  were  a  constant  en- 
tertainment to  the  eye.  Sometimes  only  the  width  of  the  road  guided 
us  between  imposing  precipices  on  the  left  and  a  clear,  cool  body  of 
water  on  the  right,  with  its  shoals  of  uncatchable  fishes,  skimming 
about  through  the  bars  of  sun  and  shadow.  Sometimes  the  preci- 


77 

pices  faded  away  into  an  apparently  endless,  upward  slant,  and  were 
densely  covered  with  magnificent  trees. 

The  beauty  of  the  woodland  became  intensified  as  we  approached 
a  veritable  Eden  of  pines.  Through  the  center  of  this  grove  was  a 
broad  driveway  flanked  on  each  side  by  immense  pine  trees  of  al- 
most equal  height.  This  was  the  famous  Christmas  Tree  Park.  One 
becomes  deeply  inspired  when  once  within  this  forest  of  pine.  Such 
a  sameness  is  there  in  infinite  variety.  Once  inside,  the  woods  can- 
not be  seen  for  trees.  One  can  but  wander  on,  letting  each  object 
impress  itself  upon  the  mind  and  carry  away  a  confused  recollection 
of  innumerable  perpendicular  lines  straining  upward  in  competition. 
The  upward  lines  are  of  varied  thicknesses,  while  branches  scatter 
about  in  confusion.  The  delicious  scent  that  fills  the  air  breathes 
of  vigor  and  health-giving  qualities. 

On  this  drive  we  caught  the  first  glimpse  of  deer,  elk  and  eagle. 
With  a  sauciness  that  commanded  respect,  the  deer  ventured  out  in- 
to the  road,  less  than  a  score  of  feet  in  front  of  the  prancing  mus- 
tangs. With  head  erect  and  ears  alert,  they  gazed  daringly  at  us 
— then  scampered  back  into  the  wood.  Their  grace  and  agility,  to- 
gether with  the  white-speckled  loins  of  the  tiny  fawns,  added  beauty 
and  prettiness  to  the  picture. 

Occasionally  we  caught  glimpses  of  elk,  who,  like  their  smaller 
relatives,  the  deer,  stood  majestically  in  expectancy  as  they  heard 
the  approach  of  our  coaches,  then  with  graceful  leaps  over  any  and 
every  obstacle  in  the  path,  they  were  lost  in  the  wilds  of  the  forest. 

Far  up  in  the  tree  tops,  many  paces  ahead,  we  observed  the 
eagle  serenely  and  statue-like,  taking  a  topographical  view  of  the 
surrounding  country,  seeking  prey  with  unerring  eye.  With  dis- 
dain, the  bird-king  cast  his  glances  down  upon  us  and  with  an  air  of 
supremacy  and  indifference,  never  moved  a  feather  to  indicate  that 
mere  humanity  was  worthy  of  notice. 

Onward  we  drove,  to  the  regular  and  even  stride  of  the  mus- 
tangs, as  we  passed  down  through  the  forest,  drawing  in  the  fra- 
grant breath  of  the  morning,  in  deep,  refreshing  draughts,  and  wish- 
ing we  might  never  have  anything  to  do  forever  more,  but  ride  and 
ride  through  such  woodland. 

The  true  charm  did  not  lie  in  the  drive  and  scenery  alone,  but 
in  the  conversation  as  well.  The  rattle  of  the  coaches  was  an  ex- 
cellent measure  by  which  to  time  the  movement  of  the  tongue  and 
keep  the  blood  and  brain  stirred  and  active.  The  supreme  pleasure 
came  from  the  heart  to  heart  talk  among  congenial  companions.  It 
mattered  little  whether  one  talked  wisdom  or  nonsense,  the  result 
was  the  same.  The  greater  portion  of  the  enjoyment  lay  in  the  ac- 
tion of  the  gladsome  jaw  and  the  ringing  of  the  sympathetic  ear. 


78  A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

What  a  variety  of  subjects  were  raked  over  during  that  half- 
day's  drive!  There  being  no  constraint,  a  sudden  change  in  the 
subject  was  always  in  order,  and  no  one  subject  was  permitted  to 
grow  tiresome.  In  the  first  hour  or  more  of  that  early  morning  ride, 
we  discussed  everything  we  knew.  Then  we  branched  out  into  the 
glad,  free,  boundless  realm  of  the  things  we  were  not  certain  about. 
The  fact  that  we  were  not  all  agriculturists  was  made  known 
when  "Joe"  inquired  at  what  particular  season  the  pine  trees  of 
Christmas  Tree  Park  bore  their  pineapples.  Others  inquired  as  to 
how  Yellowstone  Park  derived  its  name,  and  to  this  query,  Sir  Carl, 
with  an  air  of  superior  information,  pointed  out  all  the  yellow  mud- 
bespecked  stones  that  lay  in  our  course. 

Occasionally  the  conversation  would  turn  to  the  geysers  and 
hot  springs,  which  we  yearned  to  see,  when  some  caustic  wit  in  the 
party  would  refer  the  travelers  to  seek  under  the  coach  body  for  the 
hot  springs.  Sometimes  the  conversation  would  turn  for  a  moment 
to  the  sentimental,  and  we  expressed  curiosity  to  know  what  the 
friends  at  home  were  doing  and  thinking  about,  and  then  we  would 
discuss  our  anticipations  of  the  coming  conclave  at  Frisco. 

Sometimes  we  would  "give  the  floor"  to  the  driver,  who  would 
take  up  the  thread  of  his  life's  history,  which  he  had  laid  aside  pre- 
viously. True  or  untrue,  the  tales  of  the  past  of  these  reinsmen, 
form  the  most  interesting  narratives  imaginable.  Some  proved  the 
exception  to  the  rule,  in  that  they  would  not  discuss  their  past  his- 
tory at  all,  and  drove  silently  on,  listening,  but  rarely  speaking. 
There  can  be  no  doubt  that  among  the  most  silent,  lies  buried  tales 
of  the  past  that  if  told  would  bear  out  the  old  adage  that  "truth  is 
stranger  than  fiction."  Their  very  silence  carries  the  impression 
that  romances  were  buried  behind  when  they  sought  the  west  and 
the  stage  coach  for  forgetfulness. 

As  we  exhausted  our  conversational  ability  we  sought  singing  as 
a  pastime.  We  were  cheered  by  our  own  melodies.  Everybody  sang, 
or  at  least  tried  to  give  voice  to  some  song.  The  result  was  a  wild  but 
entertaining  blending  of  soprano,  alto,  contralto,  basso,  baritone,  tenor 
and  several  intermediate  tones  still  unnamed.  Occasionally  one  singer 
would  act  as  leader,  usually  all  were  leaders.  Some  were  more  rapid 
vocalists  than  others,  but  those  that  dwelt  at  length  upon  the  climax 
soon  caught  up,  even  though  they  were  compelled  to  jump  a  few  meas- 
ures at  a  time.  Old  and  young  sang  songs  they  had  never  heard,  and 
some,  no  one  else  had  ever  before  listened  to.  Others  sang  who  could 
not  sing.  Many  a  medley  of  childhood  was  resurrected  which  some  of 
the  older  members  of  the  party  recognized  as  one-time  popular  airs. 
All  formalities  were  cast  to  the  winds  and  the  happy  party  kept  pull- 
ing away  with  no  apparent  sign  of  fatigue. 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE  79 

It  was  all  high-grade  music.  Indeed  it  must  have  been  high- 
grade  because  it  so  uplifted  us  that  we  were  full  of  cry  all  the  time 
and  mad  with  enthusiasm.  Our  souls  were  never  before  so  thorough- 
ly scoured  out.  The  solemn  and  majestic  chanting  rose  and  fell 
(mostly  rose),  and  rose  again,  in  that  rich  and  wild  confusion  of  war- 
ring sounds  to  the  stately  swing  of  those  ever-present  inspiring  airs. 
It  seemed  as  if  nothing  but  the  very  highest  of  high-grade  music 
could  be  so  divinely  beautiful. 

Just  imagine  hearing  that  congenial  "ycmng-old-man"  Heckel, 
singing  "Bedelia"  and  a  score  of  other  popular  airs  that  but  few  of  us 
know;  and  when  Sir  Oscar  came  in  with  his  impressive  basso  the 
horses  started  on  a  gallop,  we  all  received  a  jolt,  and  the  singing  was 
driven  out  of  us  as  the  driver  pulled  in  the  reins. 

We  learned  to  know  that  there  were  two  kinds  of  music — a  kind 
which  one  feels,  just  as  an  oyster  might;  and  another  sort  which  re- 
quires a  higher  faculty  which  must  be  associated  and  developed  by 
training.  Yet  if  base  music  gives  some  of  us  wings,  why  then  should 
we  desire  any  other?  But  we  do.  We  want  it  because  it  comes 
higher. 

Presently  we  came  upon  Riverside  Station  where  is  located  a 
cantonment  from  Fort  Yellowstone.  This  point  is  always  guarded 
by  government  militiamen  on  horseback,  who  pace  the  roadway. 
These  armymen  are  encountered  in  all  sections  of  the  park. 

The  route  follows  along  the  Firehole  River  after  passing  River- 
side Station.  The  stream  has  not  been  inappropriately  named  and 
seems  to  flow  from  the  worst  portion  of  the  Satanic  domain.  It 
has  ample  current  with  beautiful  transparent,  blue  water,  bubbling 
over  a  bed  of  discolored  stones  and  lava.  Its  waters  are  composed 
entirely  of  the  outflow  of  geysers  and  hot  springs,  impregnated  with 
everything  the  forbidding  regions  produce.  The  water  is  pretty 
to  look  at  but  vilely  bitter. 

Thus  far  we  had  seen  no  geysers,  although  several  miles  ahead, 
along  the  river,  geysers  are  liberally  distributed  at  intervals  for  10 
miles,  being,  for  convenience  of  description,  divided  into  the  Lower, 
Middle  and  Upper  Geyser  Basins. 

As  we  drove  merrily  along  we  passed  the  falls  of  the  Firehole 
River — beautiful  beads  of  blue,  clear  water,  breaking  over  the  rocks. 
About  the  noon  hour,  we  saw,  miles  ahead,  the  steam  rising  from  the 
Lower  Geyser  Basin  in  clouds  that  were  lost  among  the  distant  hills. 
Presently  we  arrived  at  a  point  where  we  could  see  the  myriads  of 
steam  jets,  rising  from  a  surface  area  of  some  three  miles  of  desolate 
geyserite  deposits,  which  had  the  appearance  of  a  large  field  of  snow. 
The  Fountain  Hotel  was  now  in  sight,  and  with  renewed  ambition 
we  sped  along  the  straight  road  and  arrived  at  the  hostelry  in  time  for 


80 

luncheon.  This  is  the  first  hotel  within  the  park  proper  and  being 
conducted  under  government  supervision,  inasmuch  as  the  privilege 
for  conducting  it  is  granted  by  Uncle  Sam,  the  contrast  it  afforded 
to  the  hovel  which  is  graced  by  the  name  of  an  inn  was  marked — 
but  more  of  this  anon. 

Our  arrival  at  Fountain  Hotel  was  hailed  with  delight  by  mem- 
bers of  the  party  because  of  the  stimulating  air,  and  the  fact  of  the 
uncomfortable  stay  at  the  inn  on  the  border.  But  the  delight  of  the 
pilgrims  was  not  shared  by  the  proprietor  of  the  hotel — at  least  not 
for  the  first  moment  or  two — owing  to  the  suspicion  that  was  given 
him,  that  a  stranded  circus  troupe  was  about  to  make  a  concentrated 
attack. 

This  slight  misunderstanding  was,  in  a  measure,  due  to  Sir 
William  G.  Lee,  but  not  because  of  any  premonition  on  his  part. 
Sir  Lee,  like  the  rest  of  us,  had  become  numb  and  stiff  from  sitting 
in  one  position  during  the  long  drive.  As  his  coach  drew  up 
to  the  door  of  the  hotel,  he  forgot  his  affliction  in  his  anxiety  to 
alight,  and  in  an  effort  to  step  out  of  the  coach,  he  stumbled  over  a 
valise,  and  after  a  graceful  (?)  double  somersault  he  alighted  on  the 
porch  of  the  hotel  at  the  feet  of  the  proprietor.  "Bill's"  entree  was 
picturesque  to  say  the  least,  and  the  proprietor  of  the  hotel  looked 
anxiously  for  some  other  member  of  the  party  to  swing  off  the  roof 
of  the  coach  from  a  trapeze,  or  walk  into  the  hostelry  on  a  high  wire. 
Fortunately,  the  rest  of  the  party  passed  through  the  usual  formalities 
in  alighting,  and  thereby  set  af  rest  all  fears  of  the  hotel  management. 

Our  fondest  anticipation  of  the  meal  we  were  to  have  at  Fountain 
Hotel  did  not  equal  the  realization.  The  contrast  between  it  and 
the  rations  that  were  "thrown  out"  to  us  at  the  inn  was  too  great 
for  description.  The  table  was  snowy  white  in  the  array  of  linen  and 
the  service  was  equal  to  that  of  any  first  class  metropolitan  hotel.  To 
find  such  conditions  in  the  very  wilds  of  the  west  was  a  surprising 
and  most  agreeable  fact. 

Imagine  how  the  poor,  weary  and  hungry  pilgrims  devoured 
those  appetizing  viands ;  we  felt  that  some  good  angel  had  suddenly 
swept  down  from  out  of  a  better  land  and  set  before  us  a  mighty 
porterhouse  steak,  an  inch  and  one-half  thick,  hot  and  spluttering  from 
the  griddle;  dusted  with  fragrant  peppers;  enriched  with  little  melt- 
ing bits  of  butter  of  unimpeachable  freshness  and  genuineness;  the 
precious  juices  of  the  meat  trickling  out  and  joining  the  gravy, 
archipelagoed  with  mushrooms ;  a  strip  or  two  of  tender,  yellowish 
fat,  gracing  an  outlying  district  of  this  ample  county  of  beefsteak; 
and  the  long  white  bone  which  divides  the  sirloin  from  the  tender- 
loin, still  in  place.  That  good,  imaginary  angel,  also  added  a  great  cup 
of  home-made  coffee,  with  cream  "a-froth"  on  top ;  some  real  butter, 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE  81 

firm,  yellow  and  fresh;  some  smoking  hot  biscuits;  a  plate  of  hot 
buckwheat  cakes  with  transparent  syrup.  Could  words  describe  the 
sumptuousness  of  this  layout,  compared  with  that  of  our  former  stop- 
ping place? 

After  luncheon  we  were  assigned  to  our  rooms.  Large,  spacious 
apartments  were  alloted  to  us.  The  bed  linen  was  faultlessly  white, 
while  the  furniture  within  the  rooms  was  strictly  modern  and  com- 
fortable. Everything  essential  for  the  welfare  and  ease  of  the  guests 
was  found  in  these  rooms,  while  the  service  throughout  the  house 
was  excellent. 

Having  been  apprised  where  we  were  to  be  quartered  for  the 
night,  and  after  seeing  that  our  baggage  was  deposited  in  the  right 
rooms,  we  gathered  together  in  a  large  drawing  room  on  the  ground 
floor — one  of  those  rooms  which  are  the  chief  features  of  all  summer 
resorts. 

In  this  room  was  one  of  those  "near-pianos" — a  small,  clattery, 
wheezy,  asthmatic  thing;  certainly  the  worst  counterfeit,  in  the  way 
of  a  piano,  that  we  had  seen. 

How  Addie  and  Lydia  manipulated  the  ivories  with  such  skill 
and  marvelous  rapidity  and  simplicity,  was  an  astonishing  treat  to 
everyone.  Presently,  a  young  lady,  unknown  to  members  of  our 
party,  and  apparently  unconscious  of  the  multitude  about  her,  ap- 
proached the  piano  timidly.  As  soon  as  she  began  to  beat  that  old, 
helpless  wreck ,  we  knew  it  had  faced  its  destiny  and  we  felt  sorry  for 
the  hoarse  and  sickly  instrument.  After  a  companion  of  the  lady 
pianist  had  brought  several  armsful  of  sheet  music  into  the  room  and 
had  begun  to  gracefully  turn  the  pages,  she  swooped  down  upon  the 
instrument  and  without  any  further  preliminaries  turned  on  all  the 
horrors  of  "tenement-house  torture,"  while  the  congregation  set  its 
teeth  in  agony.  With  a  sweeping  calesthenic  movement  she  followed 
attack  with  attack  until  the  battle  waged  at  its  height  and  thunder 
of  shots  and  exploding  shells  was  the  only  "musical"  thing  she  pro- 
duced. Then  she  waded,  chin-deep,  into  the  blood  of  the  slain  with 
a  fair  average  of  two  false  notes  in  every  five,  and  rarely  agreed  with 
the  author  of  the  composition  which  she  was  endeavoring  to  follow. 
The  audience  stood  it  for  a  while  with  marked  forbearance,  but  when 
the  cannonade  waxed  hotter  and  fiercer  and  discords  held  full  sway, 
the  procession  began  to  move.  One  by  one,  the  congregation  sought 
the  fresh  and  stilly  air,  which  was  fractured  only  by  the  more  melod- 
ious and  harmonizing  notes  of  the  hawk,  owl,  eagle  and  cricket.  A 
few  stragglers  held  their  ground  10  minutes  longer,  but  when  the 
pianist  began  to  wring  out  the  "cries  of  the  wounded"  they  struck 
their  colors  and  retired  in  panic. 


82 

There  never  was  a  more  complete  victory;  "Bobbie"  and  Jack 
were  the  only  non-combatants  left  on  the  field.  None  liked  medioc- 
rity, but  we  all  reverenced  perfection.  The  music  was  perfection 
in  its  way ;  it  was  the  worst  music  that  had  ever  been  achieved  by  a 
mere  human  being. 

"Bobbie"  moved  closer  and  listened  attentively.  When  she  had 
concluded,  to  the  horror  of  all,  he  urged  her  to  repeat  it.  She 
agreed  with  a  pleased  alacrity  and  a  heightened  enthusiasm  and  made 
it  ALL  discords  this  time.  She  got  an  amount  of  anguish  into  the 
cries  of  the  wounded  that  shed  a  new  light  on  human  suffering.  She 
continued  on  the  warpath  for  the  next  half  hour. 

All  this  time,  crowds  gathered  on  the  porch  and  pressed  their 
faces  closely  against  the  window  panes  to  look  and  marvel,  and 
placed  their  hands  to  their  ears  so  that  they  might  not  hear;  for  the 
bravest  dared  not  venture  in.  Finally,  the  young  lady  marched  off, 
contented  and  happy,  and  our  party  took  renewed  courage  and 
marched  in  again.  Moral:  The  piano  should  never  be  abused,  they 
are  always  "square  and  upright." 

During  the  afternoon  rain  and  hail  showers  came  and  went 
intermittently.  Between  showers  we  visited  the  geysers  and  hot 
springs  and  other  natural  curiosities  in  the  vicinity  of  the  hotel.  It 
appeared  to  us  as  if  the  rain  stimulated  the  activity  of  the  geysers. 
The  larger  one  bubbled  all  over  and  as  the  rain  and  hail  fell  it  cre- 
ated the  effect  of  water  thrown  upon  a  hot  stove. 

There  are  about  700  springs  and  geysers  in  the  neighborhood, 
most  of  them  very  small.  The  noted  Fountain  Geyser  throws  a 
broad,  low  stream  of  many  interlacing  jets  every  two  or  three  hours, 
which  prevail  about  15  minutes.  The  Thud  Geyser  has  a  crater  150 
feet  in  diameter  with  a  small  rim  within.  Afe  the  geyser  operates,  it 
throws  a  column  60  feet  in  height,  with  heavy  and  regular  "thud" 
underground,  announcing  the  coming  of  each  new  spray.  This  gey- 
ser has  no  fixed  period  for  action.  The  basin  in  which  the  hotel  lies 
has  a  generous  supply  of  mud  geysers,  known  as  "paint  pots,"  which 
eject  brilliantly  colored  muds  with  the  consistency  and  appearance 
of  paint,  the  prevailing  hues  being  red,  white,  yellow  and  pink. 

The  surface  about  these  geysers  and  springs  is  underlined  with 
sulphur,  subterranean  fires,  boiling  water,  and  steam,  which  make 
their  way  out  in  many  places.  Throughout  the  whole  district,  the 
earth  has  been  cracked  by  the  heat  into  wide  fissures  in  which  waters 
can  be  heard  boiling  and  running  down,  in  the  depths.  Everything 
on  the  surface,  which  can  be,  is  burnt. 

Nearly  every  crevice  throws  forth  steam  and  hot  water  with 
deposits  of  sulphur  at  their  outer  edges,  while  the  odors  of 
some  are  almost  unbearable.  No  wonder  that  the  Indians  avoid- 


Courtesy  Oregon  Short  Line  R.  R. 

MONIDA    TO    LOWER    GEYSER    BASIN,    YELLOWSTONE    NATIONAL    PARK. 

i— The  Rapids.  2— Cascades  of  the  Firehole  River.  3-15— Deer.  4-6-7— Where  Nature  Sleeps.  5— Elk  in  the 
Valley.  8— On  the  border.  9— Yellowstone  Park  Stage  Coach.  10— Bear,  posing  for  his  picture.  1 1— Christmas  Tree 
Park.  12— Racing  to  Lakeview.  13— Mud  Geyser.  14— Mammoth  Paint  Pots.  16— Fountain  Hotel.  17— National  Park 
Mountain,  Junction  of  Firehole  and  Gibbon  Rivers.  18—  Hail  and  Rain.  19— Fountain  Geyser,  Lower  Basin.  20— Excel- 
sior Geyser. 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE  83 

ed  this  forbidding  region !  No  wonder  the  tales  told  by  some  of  the 
early  explorers  were  disbelieved ! 

Here  and  there  the  hot  springs  form  shallow  pools  where  the 
waters  run  over  the  rim-like  edges,  trickling  down  over  the  outer 
lips,  forming  beautiful  shapes  and  coral  decorations  out  of  the  dried 
lime  deposits.  With  the  aid  of  the  sun,  these  deposits  become  rich 
in  delicious  colorings  of  red,  brown,  green,  yellow,  blue  and  pink. 
As  long  as  the  waters  flow  these  decorations  retain  their  mystic- 
color  beauty,  but  where  the  flow  ceases  the  atmosphere  bleaches 
everything  into  a  snowy-whiteness,  while  the  more  delicate  forma- 
tions crumble  into  dust. 

As  we  tread  over  the  formation,  the  ground  rang  hollow.  A 
stream  of  iron-red  water  gushed  forth  here  and  there,  then  rushed 
into  a  hole  in  the  earth  as  a  frightened  prairie  dog.  A  half- 
hundred  feet  above  us,  jets  of  steam  arose — only  to  die  out  and  fade 
into  the  blue.  The  dust  bespattered  deposits  were  continually  be- 
ing renovated  by  lime,  whiter  than  the  driven  snow. 

As  the  eye  followed  down  the  grottoes  and  caves,  the  deep  abyss 
that  finds  its  way  into  fires  of  the  bowels  of  the  earth,  the  mind  lost 
all  conjecture  of  the  depths  from  whence  these  wonders  come  forth. 
The  pools,  crying  out  in  anguish  because  of  the  bitterness  which  they 
endure,  mutter,  chatter,  moan  and  groan  continuously.  Fifty  feet 
under  water,  from  out  of  the  lips  of  the  lime  edges,  silver  bubbles 
worked  their  way  up  into  the  still  crystal  surface,  disturbing  its  tran- 
quility.  Suddenly  the  pool  shakes  and  noises  rumble.  As  we  retired 
in  fright,  we  found  neighboring  pools  in  similar  agitation.  Crevices 
in  the  ground  reek  with  running,  seething  water.  In  places,  pit 
holes  remain  as  dry  as  the  desert  sands — elsewhere  the  seething 
waters  have  embalmed  and  boiled  the  underwood,  while  here  and 
there  forest  trees  shield  the  havoc  with  their  greenery. 

The  struggle  between  the  subterranean  fires  and  peaceful  vege- 
tation will  ere  long  be  won  by  the  trees  and  shrubs.  The  fires  which 
have  raged  through  the  ages  are  dying  down.  The  hotel  now  stands 
where  the  springs  at  one  time  flowed  wildly  into  deposit  wastes 
while  the  pines  which  surround  the  hostelry  have  succeeded  the 
former  places  of  geysers  and  springs. 

Government  soldiers  patrol  and  guard  the  grounds,  armed  with 
six-shooters,  to  prevent  the  tourist  from  hurling  logs  and  stones 
into  the  pools,  or  chipping  tracery  from  the  formations  or  walking 
where  the  crust  is  too  thin,  to  foolishly  cook  himself. 

It  was  at  the  Fountain  Hotel  that  we  saw  the  first  bears  on  our 
pilgrimage.  They  boarded  at  the  same  hotel,  and  there  is  more  truth 
than  jest  in  this.  Not  that  they  occupied  adjoining  rooms — for  they 
merely  took  table  board,  but  still  not  at  our  particular  table. 


84  A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

Owing  to  the  remoteness  of  the  hotels  in  Yellowstone  Park  from 
any  municipal  garbage  dump,  it  is  the  practice  of  the  management 
of  these  hostelries  to  carry  the  refuse  from  the  kitchen  and  dining 
room  and  deposit  it  a  few  hundred  yards  in  the  rear  of  the  buildings. 
So  accurately  have  the  bears  in  the  surrounding  country  noted  this 
fact,  and  so  carefully  have  they  gauged  the  time  for  carrying  the 
garbage  to  the  depository,  that  they  seldom  vary  a  moment  in  making 
their  tri-daily  calls  and  feasting  from  the  refuse  heap  until  no  heap 
remains. 

As  a  special  caution  to  guests,  danger  posts  are  stationed  about 
200  feet  from  the  garbage  repository  to  mark  the  point  from  whence 
the  bears  can  be  viewed  with  certain  safety,  while  the  additional  pre- 
caution is  given  not  to  move  nearer  or  create  a  disturbing  noise 
while  the  bruins  are  within  hearing  distance.  It  is  a  well  known 
characteristic  of  the  animal  not  to  become  aggressive  unless  in  hun- 
ger or  fear  of  danger,  when  they  become  not  only  fleet  of  foot  and 
sharp  of  claw  but  have  a  power  of  embracing  one  as  he  has  never 
been  embraced  before,  or  can  possibly  be  embraced  thereafter. 

As  if  equipped  with  faultless  and  ever  accurate  time  pieces,  the 
bears  slowly  waddle  out  of  the  dense  forest  of  pines  at  precise  hours 
three  times  a  day — about  a  half  hour  after  each  meal,  being  gra- 
cious enough  to  allow  the  employees  time  to  place  the  refuse.  As 
we  watched  them  from  the  prescribed  point  of  safety,  we  could  see 
them  leisurely,  slowly  and  ploddingly  jogging  to  their  eating  place. 
With  noses  close  to  the  ground,  eyes  riveted  upward,  and  heads  in 
continuous  swinging  motion  from  side  to  side,  they  waddled  forward 
to  the  garbage  heap  and  devoured  it  in  its  entirety,  meanwhile  eye- 
ing us  with  suspicion.  They  left  as  they  came,  unceremoniously 
and  leisurely,  and  were  lost  in  the  pines  until  the  hour  for  replenish 
ing  the  garbage  pile  was  at  hand. 

During  the  afternoon  we  met  several  Sir  Knights  of  Tancred 
Commandery  No.  48,  of  Pittsburgh,  in  their  coaches.  The  most  cor- 
dial greetings  were  exchanged.  There  was  more  than  a  touch  of 
sentiment  in  the  accidental  meeting  of  brother  Sir  Knights  from  our 
own  sister  city.  Our  Praters  were  enthusiastic  in  their  delight  and 
showered  us  with  best  wishes  and  good  cheer.  We  too,  were  happy 
over  the  meeting  with  "home  folks"  in  such  a  romantic  place  as  Yel- 
lowstone Park.  A  final  word — a  "good-bye"  and  an  expressed  hope 
that  we  would  meet  at  the  Conclave — and  they  again  resumed  their 
route. 

Returning  to  the  hotel,  Sirs  Jack  and  Reel  became  impressed 
with  the  idea  that  their  identity  had  become  lost  behind  over-grown 
beards.  A  systematic  search  of  the  hotel  failed  to  reveal  a  barber- 
shop. Upon  inquiry,  the  clerk  informed  the  "two  wild  men  of 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE  85 

Yellowstone"  that  the  engineer  could  be  induced  to  amputate  the 
beards.  Seeking  the  under-world,  wherein  lie  the  engine  and  boiler 
rooms,  they  found  the  engineer,  and  after  an  interview  were  informed 
that  he  would  take  the  contract,  although  he  showed  no  desire  to 
furnish  a  bond. 

The  engineer  inquired  where  the  rooms  of  the  unshaven  were. 
"Never  mind  about  our  rooms,"  cried  Reel,  "we  want  to  be  shaved 
right  now." 

Then  the  engineer  became  excited!  There  was  a  hurried  con- 
sultation between  him  and  his  assistant,  the  fireman,  followed  by  a 
hurrying  to  and  fro  and  an  unearthing  of  razors  from  most  unex- 
pected places  and  a  skirmishing  for  soap  and  other  necessary  me- 
chanical appliances. 

Escorting  his  victims  into  a  mean,  small,  shabby  back  room, 
used  for  storing  timber  to  fire  the  boiler,  he  brought  in  one  three- 
legged  kitchen  chair  and  a  soap-box  and  gave  his  customers  their 
choice.  Sir  Jack  announced  that  it  was  immaterial  to  him,  whether 
he  went  to  a  martyr's  grave  on  a  soap-box  or  milking  stool,  and  he 
was  voted  the  soap-box. 

Taking  their  positions,  the  unshaven  were  requested  to  prop 
their  feet  on  a  cord  of  wood.  With  sad,  silent,  and  solemn  counte- 
nances they  looked  up  piteously  into  the  face  of  the  villain,  who  was 
testing  his  razor  on  a  piece  of  sheet-iron.  Sir  Reel  asked  if  he 
could  leave  a  message  to  his  family  and  friends,  but  the  engineer 
and  fireman  both  declared  that  they  could  not  delay  the  operation 
any  longer,  for  any  further  neglect  of  the  engine  and  boilers  might 
ruin  the  whole  shaving  process  by  an  explosion. 

The  horrible  prospect  was  not  endurable  after  the  engineer  had 
kneaded  lather  over  the  faces  of  his  victims  for  ten  minutes  and 
checked  their  sobs  by  plastering  liberal  quantities  of  suds  into  their 
mouths.  The  Sir  Knights  expelled  the  nasty  stuff  with  a  few  un- 
complimentary remarks  but  the  outlaw  knew  no  fear  and  stropped 
his  razor  on  his  boot  with  renewed  vigor. 

Hovering  over  his  first  victim,  Sir  Reel,  for  six  fearful  seconds, 
he  swooped  down  upon  him  like  the  evil  genius  of  destruction,  while 
Jack,  on  the  soap-box,  grasped  his  friend  by  the  hand,  and  turned 
away  his  tear-dimmed  eyes  to  be  spared  the  full  horrors  of  the  scene. 

The  first  rake  of  the  razor  loosened  the  hide  of  the  victim  and 
lifted  him  bodily  from  his  seat.  He  stormed  and  remonstrated, 
raved  and  demanded  that  the  job  be  finished  by  the  use  of  emery 
paper  rather  than  a  meat-saw.  The  butchery  continued  in  all  its 
fury — but  let  us  draw  a  curtain  over  the  harrowing  scene.  Suffice  to 
say,  that  the  victims  endured  the  cruel  inflictions  with  a  courage  and 


86  A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

manliness  that  cannot  help  but  enscroll  their  names  upon  the  records 
of  the  "Hero  Fund." 

As  a  final  climax,  the  would-be  assassin  held  a  basin  of  water 
under  the  chins  of  his  victims  and  sprayed  its  contents  over  their 
faces,  into  their  bosoms  and  down  their  backs,  under  the  mean 
pretense  of  washing  away  the  soap  and  blood.  He  followed  this 
by  drying  the  features  of  his  victims  with  what  he  termed  a  "towel," 
but  which  might  have  been  previously  employed  in  drying  over-oiled 
sections  of  the  engine.  As  the  barber,  in  conclusion,  made  an  effort 
to  comb  the  hair  of  his  sufferers,  they  rebelled,  declaring  that  it  was 
sufficient  to  be  skinned  without  being  scalped.  Several  members 
of  our  party  who  by  this  time  had  been  drawn  to  the  scene  of  the 
tragedy,  assisted  in  caring  for  the  wounded  and  removing  them  from 
the  battle-field. 

After  dinner,  Mary  Commandery  of  Philadelphia,  arrived  at 
the  hotel,  and  a  more  agreeable,  companionable  and  brotherly  and 
sisterly  party  we  never  met  throughout  our  whole  pilgrimage. 
They  were  viewing  the  park  over  a  different  route  than  the  one 
pursued  by  us,  having  entered  by  the  North  Gate.  The  one  distinct 
advantage  they  had  over  us  was  that  they  were  not  compelled  to 
stop  at  the  inn  on  the  border,  either  coming  or  going. 

The  hours  that  followed,  about  the  spacious  verandas  and  draw- 
ing room,  were  among  the  most  pleasant  in  our  memories  of  the 
entire  trip.  Music,  song  and  laughter  was  general  and  ever  present, 
and  all  shared  therein,  in  full  accord. 

One  of  the  features  of  the  evening  was  the  rendition  of  a 
musical,  elocutionary,  dramatic  and  literary  program  in  which  talent 
of  both  Commanderies  participated,  with  the  exception  of  Bovard 
and  Gilchrist.  The  law  and  order  committee  very  charitably  agreed 
that  to  allow  "Bobbie"  to  sing  would  create  too  much  jealousy 
among  the  men,  while  the  committee  on  the  care  of  children  thought 
it  inadvisable  to  allow  "Joe"  to  make  his  first  public  appearance  so 
far  away  from  home,  although  he  agreed  to  sing  that  sentimental 
soprano  aria,  "I  want  Santa  Claus  to  Bring  Me  a  Red  Wagon." 

After  a  time,  when  the  dancers  held  the  drawing  room  and  the 
spectators  thronged  the  verandas  and  engaged  in  conversation  and 
laughter,  "Bobbie"  hit  upon  an  ingenius  scheme  to  aid  some  "noble 
charity." 

Passing  among  the  members  of  the  joyous  party,  "Bobbie" 
made  known  his  proposition.  He  had  been  given  a  watch.  Its 
worth  could  not  be  estimated  because  of  its  associations.  The 
present  owner,  finding  himself  in  the  midst  of  such  an  estimable 
gathering,  believed  himself  selfish  to  retain  it,  so  he. decided  to  raffle 
it,  that  its  ownership  might  be  determined  without  partiality.  As 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE  87 

a  mere  matter  of  form,  according  to  the  progressive  agent,  the 
chances  were  ten  cents  each ;  the  proceeds  to  go  to  a  "noble  charity." 

There  was  a  frantic  rush  to  procure  chances.  In  order  not  to 
disappoint,  many  chances  were  sold  several  times  over.  As  the 
dimes  began  to  accumulate  in  "Bobbie's"  clothes,  he  was  handi- 
capped in  moving  about  and  making  faster  sales. 

Finally  the  time  for  picking  the  winner  came  to  hand.  Every 
safeguard  was  introduced  to  insure  fairness.  Fate  chose  that  one 
of  the  Philadelphia  guests  should  be  the  proud  owner  of  the  trophy. 
With  great  diplomacy  and  considerable  ceremony,  "Bobbie"  escorted 
the  winner  to  the  open  door,  made  a  neat  presentation  speech,  and 
handing  him  the  watch,  was  lost  in  the  darkness. 

A  hundred  or  more  gathered  about  the  winner  as  he  unwrapped 
the  tissue  paper  with  great  care.  When  the  time-piece  was  revealed, 
a  titter  of  laughter  swelled  into  tumult,  and  the  proud  winner  of  a 
moment  before  shrank  to  a  victim  of  misapprehension.  Meanwhile 
a  vigilence  committee  was  appointed  to  wait  on  "Bobbie,"  provid- 
ing he  could  be  located  within  the  Park. 

The  watch  proved  to  be  the  remnant  of  a  one-time  active  and 
enthusiastic  dollar  time-piece.  It  was  so  much  ashamed  of  itself 
that  it  covered  its  face  with  its  hands.  It  had  evidently  been  the 
victim  of  a  recent  catastrophe,  for  the  glass  was  broken,  the  case 
badly  bent,  and  when  but  slightly  moved,  sections  of  the  "works" 
would  rattle  within.  This  only  tended  to  prove  what  the  announcer 
had  said  before  selling  chances:  "Its  worth  could  not  be  estimated 
because  of  its  association."  It  had  evidently  been  associated  with 
a  trip-hammer. 

The  dance  continued  and  laughter  again  held  sway  amid  the 
chattering  of  the  onlookers.  Gradually,  as  the  hours  of  morning 
hovered  near,  the  members  of  the  happy  party  dispersed  one  by 
one,  and  sought  their  well-earned  couches.  As  the  dance  floor, 
which  but  a  little  while  before  was  thronged  with  merry  dancers, 
became  vacated,  and  the  spacious  porches  which  had  held  the  joyous 
Sir  Knights  and  ladies  became  depleted,  a  few  who  remained  be- 
hind cast  a  sentimental  glance  over  the  scenes  which  a  short  time 
before  had  rung  with  cheer,  music  and  laughter,  only  to  be  suc- 
ceeded by  silence;  and  stepping  out  into  the  air  they  held  com- 
munion with  the  moon  and  twinkling  stars  in  the  stilly  night. 

Days  such  as  the  one  which  was  closing  are  rare  in  a  life-time. 
So  full  of  interest  and  lack  of  fatigue.  For  hours  we  plunged  over 
miles  of  roads,  hills  and  valleys  and  through  canyons,  while  laugh- 
ing waters  rushed  and  gushed  and  broke  over  falls  round  about  us. 
The  deer,  elk,  eagle,  bear  and  animals  of  lesser  fame  looked  on  as 


88  A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

we  completed  our  tour  for  the  day.  What  audacity  for  these  in- 
truders to  enter  our  domain,  they  seemed  to  ask. 

Our  views  and  study  of  the  geyser  formations  impressed  us 
with  their  similarity  in  growth  to  mankind  as  expressed  in  bhakes- 
peare's  "Seven  Ages  of  Man."  First,  as  the  babe  sleeping  close  to 
the  bosom  of  Mother  Earth,  the  airy  wreath  rises  from  the  heated 
clay;  then  comes  the  infant  breathing  stronger  and  at  times  puck- 
ering in  the  nurse's  arms,  as  the  sprays  splutter  out  of  the  earth; 
third,  the  child  simmering  with  impatience,  as  found  in  the  pools ; 
fourth,  the  youth  whose  occupation  is  to  boil  over,  active  and 
aggressive,  like  the  paint  pots  working  with  constant  energy;  fifth, 
manhood  as  represented  by  the  gushers  rising  in  their  maturity  to  their 
greatest  height;  sixth,  comes  the  age  when  action  is  but  intermit- 
tent ;  and  last,  old  age,  when  the  tranquil  pool,  sleepy  in  its  inactivity, 
shows  the  last  signs  of  life  only  to  be  eventually  absorbed  by  the  sun 
and  left  to  shrink  and  wither  and  crumble  to  dust. 

We  felt  the  peace  of  a  summer  night  whose  day  sleeps  with 
open  eyes.  The  full  moon  glistened  on  the  white  formations  of  the 
geyser  deposits,  while  the  rays  of  the  planets  played  in  the  spray 
of  the  geyser  streams.  The  effect  was  most  beautiful  to  the  eye 
and  inspiring  to  the  soul,  and  appeared  like  the  veil  of  a  lacy  rain- 
bow shooting  upwards.  The  night  was  pensive,  soothing,  cool  and 
exhilarating.  A  dreamy  stillness  filled  the  air — suddenly  the  splash 
of  the  geyser  breaks  the  silence.  Occasionally  the  "thud"  would 
proclaim  the  coming  water  eruption  of  the  geyser  by  that  name,  it 
bursted  forth  with  a  splash — splash — splash,  and  growled  and 
roared  as  it  threw  its  fountain  higher  and  higher  in  vain  effort  to 
outdo  its  rivals.  Together  they  rent  the  air  in  competition  for  the 
baskings  of  the  moon — then  all  was  silent  as  the  waters  again 
sought  the  bowels  of  the  earth  and  secretly  gained  strength  for  an- 
other combat. 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE  89 


CHAPTER   IX. 

E  awoke  early  on  the  morning  of  Sunday,  August  28,  to  find  the 
day  a  glorious  one.  There  was  a  feeling  of  responsibility  up- 
on us  as  we  realized  that  it  was  the  Sabbath — the  day  of  hap- 
piness and  freedom  from  toil.  But  one  can  "break  the  Sab- 
bath" in  a  hundred  ways  without  sinning.  We  do  not  work  on  Sun- 
day because  the  commandments  forbid  it — we  rest  on  Sunday  be- 
cause the  commandments  require  it.  It  is  in  the  definition  of  the 
word  "rest"  that  the  contention  lies. 

We  did  not  rest  on  this  Sunday  by  secluding  ourselves  in  quie- 
tude, if  this  be  the  accepted  manner  of  resting.  We  rested  in  the 
bosom  of  glorious  Nature,  and  in  this  rest  witnessed  and  realized 
the  work  of  the  Maker  of  all  things  and  gloried  in  His  achievement. 
Probably  in  no  other  portion  of  this  continent  can  the  works  of 
Nature  be  seen  in  such  variety  as  in  Yellowstone  National  Park, 
and  as  we  were  carried  along  from  wonder  to  wonder  the  fulness 
of  our  appreciation  increased. 

How  quickly  and  surely  isolation  from  the  activities  of  the  world 
lead  to  forgetfulness,  was  illustrated  by  the  fact  that  the  drivers  of 
the  stage  coaches  had  no  idea  that  the  day  was  Sunday.  Secluded 
as  they  are  in  the  vastness  of  the  Park,  they  work  day  after  day 
without  the  thought  of  a  calendar,  and  not  until  the  passengers  re- 
minded them  and  made  them  acquainted  with  the  fact  that  the  day 
was  the  Sabbath,  did  they  know  it. 

The  driving  schedule  does  not  permit  of  any  lapse  of  time,  and 
as  the  drivers  are  compelled  to  mount  the  boxes  and  continue  mo- 
notonously over  the  same  path  daily,  they  not  only  lose  sight  of 
the  day  of  the  week,  but  also  the  date  of  the  month.  All  days  are 
alike  to  them,  and  what  care  they,  for  they  have  become  sons  of 
the  wild  and  find  peace  in  their  pastoral  innocence. 

As  the  passengers  were  assigned  to  the  various  coaches  that 
Sunday  morning^  and  the  last  one  had  driven  away,  a  mathematical 
problem  presented  itself  that  caused  considerable  anxiety  among 
four  members  of  the  party,  and  no  little  worry  to  the  others.  One 
Sir  Knight  and  three  ladies  of  the  party  were  left  behind  as  the  last 
coach  drove  off. 

In  the  usual  mad  rush  of  the  drivers  for  the  lead,  the  coaches 
were  well  out  of  sight  and  hurrying  further  away  with  all  the  ef- 


90  A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

fort  of  the  mustangs,  before  the  predicament  was  fully  realized. 
Inquiry  for  another  coach  brought  the  response  that  there  was  none 
to  be  had.  A  previous  count  had  demonstrated  the  fact  that  as 
many  coaches  had  left  as  had  arrived  with  our  party.  Wherefore 
then,  the  surplus  of  passengers? 

Undesirous  of  being  isolated  in  the  Park  with  the  other  pil- 
grims San  Francisco  bound,  the  stranded  Sir  Knight  made  a  hasty 
inquiry  for  a  telegraph  office  and  was  agreeably  surprised  to  find 
one  in  the  hotel.  Without  an  instant's  delay,  he  wired  the  manage- 
ment of  the  coach  company,  probably  100  miles  distant,  telling  of 
the  predicament,  and  making  an  urgent  plea  for  another  coach. 
With  "red-taped"  leisureness  the  management  wired  back  for  "a 
full  and  detailed  report  of  how  it  happened."  As  this  required 
statement  would  mean  an  expression  of  about  1000  words,  and  as 
the  prevailing  toll  in  the  park  was  four  cents  a  word,  the  Sir  Knight, 
with  rare  mathematical  aptitude,  figured  that  it  would  cost  him 
about  $40,  and  realizing  that  horses  could  be  bought  in  that  wilder- 
ness for  about  $10  each  (if  one  was  disinclined  to  go  out  and  catch 
a  wild  one)  he  decided  to  try  a  quicker  means  of  relief.  A  second 
thought  also  brought  the  conclusion  that,  although  the  detailed  re- 
port might  have  been  satisfactory,  that  it  would  be  tiresome  to  wait 
until  another  coach  could  be  brought  from  headquarters,  100  miles 
away. 

Leaving  the  ladies  in  the  hotel  where  he  provided  for  their 
comfort,  the  Sir  Knight  sought  the  coach  company's  barn  in  the 
rear  of  the  hotel  in  hopes  of  securing  a  rig  to  carry  the  forsaken 
to  their  friends.  Beating  his  way  through  underbrush  and  far  into 
the  woods  in  the  dangerous  vicinity  in  which  we  saw  the  unscrupu- 
lous bears  the  night  previous,  the  lonely  Sir  Knight  eventually 
came  upon  a  hostler  pitching  hay  in  what  appeared  to  be  a  barn. 
Approaching  the  man  with  all  possible  grace  the  Sir  Knight  made 
an  eloquent  plea  for  a  horse,  which  surpassed  any  effort  ever  credit- 
ed to  Richard  III. 

Whether  or  not  the  stranger  was  agreeably  impressed  will 
probably  never  be  known,  for  he  replied  in  a  mixed  and  unintelligent 
jargon,  which  appealed  to  the  ear  as  a  mixture  of  Slavonish,  Chinese 
and  Greek.  The  stranger's  speech  did  not  give  the  slightest  clue 
of  any  one  fixed  modern  tongue.  After  a  disappointing  search  of 
the  shed  to  find  that  there  was  not  a  horse  in  sight,  the  Sir  Knight 
wended  his  way  back  through  the  woods  dodging  shadows  for 
bears. 

Arriving  at  the  hotel  one  of  the  overseers  of  the  stage  company 
was  found.  His  supervision  was  limited  to  the  district  embraced 
within  a  radius  of  50  miles  and  he  had  power  to  take  official  action. 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE  91 

He  was  gruff  in  his  manner,  but  by  tactful  approach  was  gracious 
enough  to  listen  to  the  story  of  the  stranded  troupe.  He  contend- 
ed that  the  coach  company  was  not  in  error — that  as  many  coaches 
were  provided  as  had  arrived  at  the  hotel.  However,  he  finally  con- 
sented, in  consideration  of  a  $10  fee,  to  use  his  own  rig  and  drive 
the  lost  sheep  back  into  the  fold  at  the  station  ahead.  This  bar- 
gain was  cheerfully  entered  into,  and  starting  two  hours  after  the 
last  coach  had  left,  the  four  forsaken  gave  chase  after  the  advance 
guard.  The  greeting  that  awaited  them  at  the  hands  of  the  pil- 
grims when  they  arrived  was  solicitous  and  impressive.  Some 
thought  that  the  bears  had  eaten  the  missing  quartet,  while  there 
were  others  who  believed  that  the  Sir  Knight  had  eloped  with  the 
three  ladies. 

An  investigation  was  at  once  started  to  learn  how  the  surplus 
of  passengers  was  made  possible,  when  as  many  coaches  had  left 
Fountain  as  had  arrived  there  the  day  previous.  This  mystery 
was  soon  cleared  up  when  it  became  known  that  two  of  the  larger 
coaches  had  been  changed  for  smaller  ones,  making  the  gross  ac- 
commodation four  less,  and  the  four  passengers  who  graciously  saw 
the  other  pilgrims  seated  first  were  left  to  themselves  among  the 
geysers.  This  exchange  of  coaches  was  branded  as  a  commercial 
trick  on  the  part  of  the  two  drivers  to  accommodate  another 
transient  party,  and  after  vigorous  complaint  the  original  coaches 
were  restored  and  the  $10  fee  was  eventually  refunded. 

We  had  ridden  for  two  hours  through  wild  country  and  found 
our  happy  meeting  in  the  world-famous  and  unequaled  "Faithful 
Inn,"  probably  the  most  picturesque  tavern  in  the  world.  The  drive 
to  the  inn  was  over  smooth  roads  and  riding  was  most  delightful. 
Now  and  again  a  slight  rain  storm  would  come  up,  but  never  so 
serious  as  to  interfere  with  the  pleasure  of  the  trip.  The  stranded 
quartet  were  favored  with  a  fast  team  in  a  light  barouch.  The  driv- 
er reached  into  his  vest  pocket  and  brought  forth  the  stump  of  a 
cigar,  about  one  inch  in  length,  and  setting  his  teeth  firmly  upon 
it,  found  renewed  energy  which  he  applied  to  the  horses.  After 
he  carried  the  stump  for  a  half-hour,  the  Sir  Knight  beside  him 
thought  it  would  be  Christian  charity  to  give  him  a  light,  and  forth- 
with handed  him  a  Wheeling  stogie  which  he  had  just  lighted. 
The  driver  accepted  it  graciously  and  carefully  returned  his  cigar 
stump  to  his  vest  pocket.  His  sociability  was  unequaled  for  so 
short  an  acquaintance. 

Presently  he  brought  the  horses  to  a  halt,  and  turning  the  lines 
over  to  the  Sir  Knight  with  the  request:  "Pard,  hold  these  a  min- 
ute," descended  from  the  box  and  took  a  drink  from  a  small  pool, 
by  means  of  a  tin  can.  When  he  returned  his  face  bore  a  careworn 


92  A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

look  and  appeared  dejected.  "I  am  sick,"  he  declared.  The  strong 
stogie  was  too  much  for  him,  and  thereby  was  demonstrated  the 
fact  that  even  a  tenderfoot  from  Allegheny  can  sustain  things  which 
the  strenuous  man  of  the  west  finds  beyond  his  physique. 

Our  drive  to  "Old  Faithful  Inn"  was  through  the  Middle  Gey- 
ser Basin  and  along  the  Firehole  River.  Continuing,  we  came  in 
sight  of  Hell's  Half  Acre,  a  locality  of  50  acres  which  is  rife  with 
hot  springs  and  geysers,  and  whose  waters  continually  boil  and 
splutter  and  spout  above  the  surface.  Many  legends  are  told  as  to 
how  Hell's  Half  Acre  derived  its  name,  but  they  all  find  their  be- 
ginning in  the  heated,  sulphurous  vomitings  of  'the  vicinity. 

The  whole  basin  is  surrounded  and  bespecked  with  timbered 
hills  of  pine,  whose  aroma  is  fragrant  in  contrast  to  the  fumes  of 
sulphur  and  lime  deposits  which  the  wayfarer  is  compelled  to  sniff 
almost  continually.  At  the  foot  of  the  Half  Acre  is  a  lake  whose 
waters  are  bluish-green,  but  which  shade  into  deposits  of  the 
brightest  of  red  as  they  flow  down  to  the  river.  The  great  "Ex- 
celsior" Geyser  lies  in  the  Middle  Geyser  Basin.  It  is  of  enormous 
power  but  operates  only  at  uncertain  periods.  When  active,  it 
throws  out  such  an  immense  amount  of  water  as  to  double  the 
flow  of  the  river.  Its  crater,  which  is  100  yards  wide,  is  lined  with 
most  beautiful  colorings  of  sulphur  deposits.  The  waters  boil  vio- 
lently in  the  throat  of  the  crater  at  all  times  and  bubble  and  splut- 
ter their  way  to  a  constant  outflow  almost  incessantly.  When  rag- 
ing, "Excelsior"  Geyser  throws  a  column  of  water  200  feet  high. 

Beyond  the  Half  Acre  to  the  west,  and  along  our  driveway, 
lay  a  great  acreage  of  seething  hot  springs  and  geysers  which 
grumble  and  steam  like  seething  cauldrons  that  know  no  rest.  The 
place  is  uncanny,  the  footing  treacherous,  and  the  vicinity  is  the 
hottest  in  the  park.  Furiously  boiling  waters  and  continued  sprays 
of  varied  volume,  disrupted  and  crust-dried  lime  and  sulphur  de- 
posits discolor  vegetable  growth  within  sight  of  the  eye,  and  whiten 
tree  trunks  as  would  a  new  coat  of  whitewash. 

Suddenly  an  unusually  large  spurt  of  boiling  water  leaped  into 
the  air.  Even  those  far  removed  from  any  possibility  of  danger 
shrank  back  in  fear  of  an  impromptu  over-heated  shower-bath. 
This  was  the  "Riverside"  Geyser.  Its  crater  was  ragged  and  from 
out  of  its  slippery,  slimy  funnel  the  water  rose  and  fell  10  feet  at  a 
time,  then  bubbled  and  boiled  over,  driving  away  the  spectators  in 
a  scamper. 

Following  the  desolate  shores  of  the  Firehole  River  for  several 
miles,  we  passed  through  a  region  of  extinct  geysers  that  was  rife 
with  active  hot  springs,  jets  of  spouting  steam  rising  out  of  the  lime 
and  sulphur  crusted  earth  as  far  as  the  eye  can  see. 


Courtesy  Northern  Pacific  Railroad. 

OLD    FAITHFUL    GEYSER-YELLOWSTONE    NATIONAL    PARK. 


93 

Beyond  is  the  largest  field  of  geysers  on  earth — the  Upper  Gey* 
ser  Basin.  Here  are  congregated  a  half  hundred  of  the  greatest 
geysers  in  the  world  over  a  territory  of  two  or  three  square  miles. 
Clouds  of  steaming  water  are  continually  shooting  skyward,  while 
the  sulphur-bespattered  earth  is  saturated  with  the  hot  water  which 
is  seeking  its  way  from  the  geyser  lips  to  the  river.  The  paint  pots 
working  constantly,  knead  their  sulphurous  paste  from  side  to  side, 
and  color  the  surface  in  variegated  hues  with  their  sputterings. 

The  pride  of  the  Upper  Geyser  Basin,  and  the  first  geyser 
which  is  shown  visitors,  is  known  as  "Old  Faithful."  Its  name  was 
given  because  of  its  reliability  in  spraying  at  an  appointed  time. 
"Old  Faithful"  has  a  flat  top,  with  a  cone  200  feet  in  diameter  which 
rises  towards  the  center  about  20  feet.  Steam  is  constantly  escap- 
ing, and  as  you  approach,  with  the  assurance  that  the  next  shot  of 
water  will  not  occur  until  the  scheduled  time,  rumblings  and  dull 
explosions  are  heard  beneath,  while  there  is  seemingly  hollowness 
which  creates  fear  as  one  treads  near  the  mouth  of  the  crater. 

Geysers  all  about  rage  and  bellow,  and  make  the  air  mist-like 
with  their  skyward  plunges.  The  almost  constant  battery  of  spurt- 
ing streams  of  hot  water,  the  restless  paint  pots,  the  ambitious  and 
ever  active  hot  springs,  the  bellowings  and  rumblings  underneath, 
— all  seemed  to  indicate  that  some  monstrous  beast  of  the  under- 
world was  raging  and  frothing  in  a  mad  effort  to  obtain  release. 

It  was  here  at  the  edge  of  the  Upper  Geyser  Basin  and  within 
sight  of  "Old  Faithful"  geyser  that  we  found  "Old  ^aithful  Inn." 
If  ever  the  aims  of  a  hotel  builder  in  making  a  hostelry  inviting  to 
prospective  guests  were  realized,  it  was  in  the  building  of  "Old 
Faithful  Inn."  Built  entirely  of  logs  and  used  in  their  natural  hewn 
state,  the  hotel  is  at  once  unique  and  strikingly  beautiful.  Its  long, 
sloping  roof  which  tapers  down  to  almost  the  very  ground,  lends  the 
cheer  of  the  Swiss  cottage,  while  the  pillars  of  hewn  logs  which  sup- 
port the  main  balconies  lend  a  startling  oddness  which  one  learns  to 
adore.  Not  only  without,  but  also  within,  the  building  is  constructed 
entirely  of  logs.  Walls  are  formed  of  neatly  matched  tree  trunks, 
which  have  been  stripped  of  their  bark  and  varnished,  while  doors 
and  even  window  frames  are  constructed  of  the  natural  shaped  wood. 
From  the  wide  and  roomy  office  and  lobby  on  the  ground  floor  one 
can  look  up  through  the  building  to  the  roof,  the  upper  floors  being 
balconied.  These  balconies  are  in  themselves  most  artistic,  and  like 
all  else  in  the  construction  of  the  house,  are  created  from  hewn  logs 
and  branches.  Their  special  attractiveness  lies  in  the  fact  that  the  posts 
and  post-trimmings  are  perfectly  matched  and  attest  to  the  great  labor 
and  time  which  must  have  been  employed  in  seeking  and  obtaining 
equal  and  almost  identically  shaped  limbs  and  logs.  The  verandas, 


94     A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

ballroom,  reception  rooms,  rathskeller,  parlors,  dining-room — in  a 
word,  all  the  rooms  in  the  house,  even  including  the  bed-rooms,  were 
constructed  in  natural  shaped  wood,  while  a  cleanliness  prevailed 
that  was  faultless. 

Huge  knots  in  the  logs  added  a  rugged  beauty,  but  the  inconceiv- 
able wonder  was  in  the  fact  that  the  knots  appeared  in  the  wood- 
work in  symmetrical  rotation,  showing  further  ingenuity  in  matching 
the  natural  wood. 

Greeting  us  at  the  doorway  of  this  picturesque  hostelry  was 
"Larry,"  the  manager.  Everyone  about  the  place,  stranger,  guest 
and  visitor,  knew  him  only  by  that  familiar  name,  and  as  his  friendli- 
ness left  no  room  for  formalities,  we  also  knew  him  and  learned  to 
like  him — as  "Larry."  "Larry's"  hand-shake  was  a  welcome  in  itself 
and  his  verbal  greeting  given  in  a  deep,  hearty  tone,  left  not  the 
vestige  of  doubt  of  his  sincerity.  Each  and  every  member  of  our 
party  was  greeted  by  the  warm  hand-shake  of  the  cheerful  and  ac- 
commodating host. 

We  were  at  once  ushered  into  the  dining-room  to  enter  into  com- 
bat with  our  appetites.  While  the  meal  was  in  itself  of  sufficient 
interest  to  appeal  to  us,  we  were  fascinated  by  the  rustic  beauty  of 
the  interior,  with  its  walls,  ceiling  and  every  detail  constructed  from 
trees  in  their  own  shape  of  growth,  welded  into  one  whole  of  artistic 
grace.  A  novel  feature  that  presented  itself  in  the  dining-room  was 
a  huge  and  massive  sideboard  hewn  out  of  petrified  wood,  which,  in 
its  silence,  told  eloquently  of  the  times  when  our  prehistoric  fathers 
wandered  through  this  garden  of  nature  in  the  centuries  of  long  ago. 

Great  fireplaces  were  found  on  every  floor  and  were  set  deep 
within  the  natural  wood  walls.  Even  in  the  construction  of  the  doors 
was  the  natural  wood  effect  carried  out,  and  from  floor  to  floor,  room 
to  room,  and  even  door  to  door,  there  never  seemed  a  monotony  of 
this  feature  which  was  ever  interesting  and  especially  pleasing  in  its 
suggestion  of  comfort. 

Ever  and  anon  we  met  "Larry"  hurrying  to  and  fro  through  the 
spacious  building.  Busy  or  not,  he  was  ever  ready  to  inquire  into 
the  comfort  of  each  and  every  guest,  and  his  demeanor  was  always 
so  friendly  that  we  found  him  quite  as  admirable  as  the  very  build- 
ing itself. 

After  luncheon  we  strolled  among  the  geysers  and  hot  springs 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  hotel,  under  the  direction  of  a  guide.  He  was 
evidently  of  foreign  birth  and  as  a  test  of  his  truthfulness  would  ac- 
company every  explanation  with  the  invitation:  "If  you  don't  belief 
it,  dry  it  yourself."  We  believed  him. 

Scattered  about  us  were  mounds  of  extinct  geysers;  and  while 
they  still  steamed,  had  long  since  spent  their  force  and  were  inactive. 


Courtesy  Oregon  Short  Line  R.  R. 

MIDDLE    AND    UPPER    GEYSER    BASIN,    YELLOWSTONE    NATIONAL    PARK. 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE  95 

In  a  field  of  these  aged  and  indigent,  stood  "Old  Faithful"  geyser. 
We  heard  the  rumbling  and  infallible  symptoms  of  its  eruption  and 
hastened  thither.  Steam  jets  were  shooting  forth  with  increasing 
volume,  and  the  internal  confusion  became  greater.  In  a  moment 
the  rumbling  blended  into  rolling  thunder  and  while  in  its  highest 
pitch  of  nervous  growling  and  spraying,  came  the  explosion,  which 
threw  the  water  higher  and  higher  into  the  air,  until  it  attained  a 
column  150  feet  in  height — the  grand  fountain  was  in  play. 

The  stream  inclined  to  the  north,  and  as  the  wind  carried  dense 
clouds  of  steam  and  sprays,  huge  splashes  fell  from  the  apex  of  the 
fountain  upon  the  northward  side  of  the  cone  which  formed  the 
geyser  mouth.  Unsatisfied  in  her  effort,  nature  lends  color  to  the 
scene  by  the  aid  of  the  sun,  in  painting  beautiful  rainbows  upon  the 
spraying  waters. 

"Old  Faithful,"  true  to  its  name,  rises  out  of  its  subterranean 
depths  every  63  minutes,  to  the  minute,  operates  for  five  minutes  at  a 
height  of  150  feet,  then  gradually  recedes  to  about  30  feet.  After  6 
minutes  have  elapsed,  the  geyser,  in  one  concentrated  dying  effort, 
hurls  forth  a  column  50  feet  high  and  sinks  back — far  down  into  the 
depths  of  the  earth,  to  lie  in  repose  until  it  has  accumulated  renewed 
energy  in  the  customary  interval  of  63  minutes. 

After  the  geyser  has  spent  its  wrath,  one  can  look  down  into  the 
mouth  with  every  degree  of  safety — providing  the  look  does  not  re- 
quire the  allotted  63  minutes.  As  the  eye  penetrates  the  draughts  of 
steam  which  pour  out  of  the  geyser  mouth,  one  can  see  far  down  into 
the  rocky  recesses.  Pools  of  water  of  transparent  blue  are  left  in  the 
rock  cleft  pockets  within  the  cone.  The  outer  crust  of  the  mouth  is 
hard,  brittle  and  porous,  and  less  sulphurous  than  those  of  other 
geysers. 

The  geysers  of  the  Upper  Basin  form  the  waters  of  the  Firehole 
River  and  pour  10,000,000  gallons  into  that  stream  daily.  As  we 
strolled  about  to  the  northward  we  meet  the  "Beehive"  geyser  whose 
tube  is  high.  It  is  enclosed  by  a  pile  of  geyserite  formation,  which 
from  its  appearance,  gives  the  name  "Beehive."  Near  by  is  a  vent, 
which  acting  like  a  safety  valve,  shoots  forth  jets  of  steam  before  each 
eruption  and  thereby  gives  warning  to  inquisitive  explorers.  The 
spray  of  the  "Beehive"  attains  a  height  of  200  feet.  It  operates  but 
once  or  twice  a  day,  usually  at  night. 

Nearby  are  the  "Turban,"  "Lion,"  "Lioness"  and  their  two  cubs, 
and  a  little  to  the  eastward  is  the  "Giantess."  The  Lion  group  is  of 
uncertain  action  and  of  small  volume  in  comparison  to  the  other 
geysers. 

The  "Giantess,"  however,  is  worthy  of  the  name.  Seated  upon 
her  throne  on  the  summit  of  a  mound  50  feet  high,  this  geyser  presents 


96  A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

a  depressed  crater  18  by  24  feet,  which  is  usually  filled  with  dark-blue 
water.  In  other  words,  the  "Giantess"  is  a  most  unfortunate  woman 
in  that  she  has  no  mouth — though  in  the  language  of  the  geyser 
biographers,  "her  lips  are  very  broad  and  fiat." 

Being  so  large  she  naturally  moves  slowly,  and  operates  only  at 
intervals,  averaging  every  two  weeks.  But  when  the  "Giantess" 
rises  in  her  dignity  she  must  be  heard — and  usually  is  heard.  Pre- 
vious notice  of  bursting  anger  is  given  by  violent  boiling  and  internal 
rumbling  which  terminate  with  an  explosion  that  is  terrific,  and  which 
at  times  shakes  the  hotel  far  removed,  and  frightens  the  inhabitants. 
Her  sprays  attain  a  height  of  250  feet  and  operations  usually  con- 
tinue throughout  an  entire  day.  The  spray  of  the  "Giantess"  is  as 
wide  as  her  crater,  and  through  the  center  can  be  seen  distinct  jets 
forcing  their  way  through  the  water-spout. 

Across  the  river  is  the  "Castle,"  so  named  because  of  its  castel- 
lated construction.  Its  action  is  uncertain,  varying  from  once  a  day 
to  every  other  day,  and  it  throws  a  column  of  water  150  feet  in  height, 
which  continues  about  40  minutes  and  then  tapers  off  in  a  series  of 
insignificant  spurts.  Scattered  about  are  geysers  of  small  size  and 
lesser  force,  which  operate  usually  in  sympathy  with  the  larger 
geysers. 

The  "Grand"  geyser  operates  with  great  power  and  force,  and 
when  ready  to  spray,  causes  the  earth  to  tremble  while  the  internal 
thumpings  and  rumblings  are  fearful  and  threatening.  Sucking  in  the 
water  reposing  in  its  crater,  the  geyser  shoots  forth  in  a  solid  column 
200  feet  high,  with  steam  rising  in  clouds  above. 

The  water  spout  of  the  "Grand"  seems  to  be  composed  of  a  com- 
bination of  numerous  separate  jets  which  fall  back  into  the  funnel- 
shaped  crater  with  a  thunderous  report  at  successive  intervals.  The 
"Saw-Mill"  (rather  insignificant)  has  a  tube  six  inches  in  diameter. 
Its  water  column,  thrown  40  feet  high,  gives  the  peculiar  sound  of  a 
saw,  caused  by  the  puffs  of  steam  ejected  alternately  with  the  water 
jets. 

The  "Wash  Tubs,"  small  basins  with  diameters  of  about  10  feet 
and  whose  bottoms  are  lined  with  orifice,  are  nearby.  If  clothes  or 
any  foreign  matter  is  put  into  these  basins,  the  washing  process  is 
industriously  carried  out,  then  suddenly,  water,  clothes  and  all,  are 
sucked  down  into  the  deep  recesses  of  the  basins.  After  a  time  the 
water  reappears  and  back  come  the  clothes. 

The  "Devil's  Well"  nearby  is  a  broad  basin  of  ever  boiling 
water  of  a  beautiful  blue  cast.  It  often  serves  the  purpose  for  tour- 
ists to  boil  eggs,  potatoes  and  other  articles  of  food  in  its  steaming 
waters.  The  "Comet"  geyser  stands  near  the  well.  It  explodes  several 
times  during  the  day  but  its  spray  never  attains  great  height. 


Courtesy  Northern  Pacific  Railroad. 

THE    GIANT    GEYSER-YELLOWSTONE    NATIONAL    PARK. 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE  97 

The  "Giant"  is  the  great  geyser  of  the  Upper  Basin.  Its  cone 
stands  upon  almost  level  surface  and  is  broken  and  irregular  in  shape. 
A  glance  into  its  interior  discloses  formations  and  deposits  of  beau- 
teous hues  and  of  iridescent  splendor.  Brilliant  colors  representing 
hundreds  of  shades,  interblend  in  making  the  lining  attractive. 

The  "Giant,"  like  the  majority  of  geysers,  is  uncertain  in  action 
but  usually  operates  every  fourth  day.  A  vent  in  its  side  and  the 
action  of  numerous  "Little  Devils"  located  nearby,  gives  ample  notice 
of  the  rising  fury  of  the  "Giant."  When  the  monster  does  break 
loose  he  holds  sway  90  minutes.  The  outburst  comes  like  a  tornado, 
and  the  water  that  gushes  forth  doubles  the  flow  of  the  river  during 
its  operation.  Its  column  rises  to  a  height  of  250  feet  and  is  eight 
feet  in  diameter.  The  water  bursts  forth  in  a  sea  of  steam  that  per- 
vades the  whole  valley  and  holds  a  perfectly  erect  position  during 
operation. 

The  "Catfish"  and  "Grotto"  are  geysers  in  the  immediate  vicinity 
which  are  of  odd  and  irregular  formation  but  vigorous  spouters, 
though  their  waters  reach  no  great  altitude. 

The  "Fan"  geyser  is  well  named.  It  has  five  tubes  which  are 
spread  out  symmetrically,  and  during  an  eruption  they  give  the  ap- 
pearance of  an  open  fan.  The  center  tube  throws  a  spout  100  feet 
high  and  operations  occur  three  or  four  times  a  day  and  continue  15 
minutes. 

The  "Splendid"  spouts  200  feet  into  the  air  every  three  hours 
and  continues  in  action  about  10  minutes.  The  "Pyramid"  and 
"Punch  Bowl"  have  ceased  operation.  The  first  has  become  merely  a 
steam  jet,  while  the  latter  is  a  serrated-edged  mound  within  which 
rests  an  elegant  pool  of  deep  blue  water. 

"Morning  Glory  Spring"  is  a  marvelously  tinted  pool,  shaped  and 
colored  in  great  similarity  to  the  flower  after  which  it  is  named. 
Its  outer  edges  rest  level  with  the  surface  of  the  ground  and  bear  a 
rich,  variated  blend  of  pink.  Tapering  towards  the  center,  rich 
shades  of  purple  and  blue  interblend  until  the  center  is  reached,  where 
the  bottomless  hole  finds  its  way  into  the  depths  of  the  earth  bearing 
a  purple-black  hue. 

These  geysers  attain  a  boiling  point  of  250  degrees  at  a  depth  of  70 
feet  when  in  a  state  of  activity,  and  the  steam  so  suddenly  generated 
gives  the  necessary  force  to  lift  the  great  spouts  of  water  out  of  the 
depths  of  the  earth  to  the  surface. 

Government  soldiers  patrol  the  geyser  fields  as  a  protection  to 
the  geysers.  Their  particular  function  is  to  prevent  curio  seekers  from 
demolishing  the  cones  and  chipping  them,  or  otherwise  disturbing 
the  natural  trend  of  the  geysers.  Another  special  duty  of  these 

(7) 


98  A;  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

guardsmen  is  to  prevent  sight-seers  from  throwing  foreign  matter 
into  the  craters.  The  geysers  do  not  like  to  be  fed  and  show  great 
resentment  at  having  articles  thrown  into  their  mouths.  They  be- 
come especially  indignant  and  furious  if  given  soap.  Their  resent- 
ment of  soap  is  a  great  peculiarity  of  the  geyser,  though  they  are 
rather  human  in  this.  It  is  a  well  founded  and  established  fact  that 
if  soap  is  thrown  into  the  mouth  of  an  active  geyser,  it  rages  and 
becomes  inconsolable  for  a  whole  day.  It  seems  to  weaken  their 
stomachs  and  acts  as  a  powerful  emetic,  causing  them  to  hurl  forth 
all  that  has  accumulated  in  their  depths.  It  must  be  admitted,  with 
a  degree  of  humiliation,  that  no  member  of  our  party  had  any  soap. 
Hence  we  sought  no  opportunity  to  evade  the  guardsmen  and  satisfy 
our  curiosity. 

Slowly  and  reluctantly  we  left  the  geyser  fields,  and  in  obedience 
to  the  call  of  the*  falling  shades  of  evening,  made  our  way  back  to  the 
hotel.  Several  members  of  the  party  (none  of  the  ladies)  desired  the 
services  of  a  barber.  History  repeats  itself.  No  barber  shop  found 
place  in  the  otherwise  complete  hostelry.  Again  the  unshaven  were 
directed  to  the  boiler  room  and  left  to  the  mercies  of  the  engineer 
and  fireman. 

It  is  not  the  intent  of  the  writer  to  strike  pity  in  the  hearts  of  the 
reader,  nor  encourage  tears  and  inconsolable  sorrow.  So  we  will 
refrain  from  a  minute  description  of  the  suffering  and  tortures  of  the 
bearded  while  they  were  being  shaven.  Suffice  to  say,  we  identified 
each  victim  that  entered  the  boiler  room  by  a  number,  so  as  to  avoid 
any  difficulty  in  recognizing  him  when  he  returned.  Meanwhile, 
other  members  of  the  party  plucked  wild  flowers  as  a  fitting  tribute 
in  case  of  necessity. 

With  the  same  charity  as  was  manifested  at  the  Fountain  hotel, 
the  bears  in  the  vicinity  of  "Old  Faithful  Inn"  were  fed  in  a  like 
manner ;  from  the  garbage  heap  in  the  rear  of  the  hotel.  In  order  to 
draw  a  correct  comparison  of  the  devouring  ability  of  these  bears 
with  the  others,  we  viewed  the  feeding  with  interest.  The  greater 
majority  of  guests  at  this  garbage  banquet  were  blacks  bears,  and 
surely  did  justice  to  the  spread.  However,  while  in  the  midst  of  a 
course,  before  dessert  had  been  served,  a  huge  grizzly  strode  majes- 
tically into  sight,  and  without  an  effort  conquered  and  took  individual 
possession.  The  black  bears  scattered  in  fright  at  the  approach  of 
this  monarch,  who  was  gracious  enough  to  delay  his  entry  until  the 
other  species  of  his  family  had  at  least  a  munch  or  two — though  he 
did  not  give  them  opportunity  for  the  customary  formality  of  de- 
livering after-dinner  speeches. 

It  was  a  source  of  great  pleasure  to  us  to  again  meet  our  Fraters 
and  friends  from  Mary  Commandery  at  the  hotel.  They  had 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE          99 

traveled  in  our  wake  and  reached  the  hotel  several  hours  after  our 
arrival.  Greetings  were  hearty  and  cordial  on  all  sides,  and  pre- 
viously made  friendships  were  cemented  more  strongly,  if  that  were 
possible. 

The  gathering  at  dinner  was  a  large  and  enthusiastic  one.  The 
coziness  of  the  oddly  constructed  dining-room  lent  zest  to  the  ap- 
petite and  conversation.  We  were  served  by  waitresses  in  quaint  and 
comely  attire  and  of  pleasant  personality.  They  were  young  women 
far  above  the  station  of  those  who  usually  serve  in  that  capacity; 
for  many  school  teachers  and  women  of  like  vocation  take  the  op- 
portunity of  so  earning  a  pleasant  summer  vacation  within  the  Yel- 
lowstone National  Park. 

The  dress  of  the  waitresses  were  so  attractive  that  the  writer,  in 
his  unfamiliarity  of  technical  makeup  of  ladies'  garments,  or  the 
welding  process  necessary  to  wrought  them  into  shape,  appealed  to 
Sir  Heckel  for  a  description,  and  the  latter  took  special  pride  in  being 
able  to  talk  intelligently  upon  the  subject.  According  to  Sir  Heckel 
the  gowns  conformed  to  this  description : 

"They  were  simple  foulard  gros  de  laine  trimmed  with  lemon- 
colored  orange  blossoms  a  la  Merode.  Overskirts  of  embroidered 
cheese-cloth  hung  loosely  from  the  waist  and  were  cut  bias  about  the 
accordion-plaited  skirt  binding.  Facings  of  hemstitched  petit  polo- 
naise, with  insertions,  were  draped  about  the  shoulders  and  basted  to 
the  back,  upon  which  flourished  a  liberal  crop  of  hooks  and  eyes." 

While  the  writer  has  not  the  ability  of  Sir  .Heckel  to  enter  into  a 
discussion  of  the  artistic  merits  of  this  combination,  he  can  at  least 
attest  to  the  fact  that  the  waitresses  looked  especially  alluring  and 
fascinating  in  this  attire. 

After  dinner  the  guests  distributed  themselves  about  the  great 
drawing-room,  verandas,  porches  and  grounds,  and  entered  into  the 
enjoyment  of  an  evening  that  inscribed  itself  indelibly  upon  our  mem- 
ories. One  member  of  the  Mary  Commandery  was  a  clergyman,  and 
he  presided  during  a  short  devotional  service,  after  which  a  concert 
and  recital  was  given  by  members  from  both  parties.  We  had  some 
talent  with  us  that  was  not  publicly  displayed  upon  this  occasion, 
and  to  save  Sirs  Gilchrist  and  Burry  and  Aberli  from  any  unnecessary 
humiliation,  we  will  not  mention  names. 

One  of  the  features  of  the  evening  was  offered  by  a  viewing  of 
the  eruption  of  "Old  Faithful"  geyser  by  searchlight,  with  which  the 
hotel  was  equipped.  The  sight  was  one  that  beggars  description. 
As  the  great  light  shot  out  from  the  tower  of  the  hostelry,  it  uncere- 
moniously revealed  the  bears  in  the  woods.  How  they  scattered  and 
scampered  off  under  the  rays  of  the  powerful  light  was  a  source  of 
great  amusement. 


100        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO'  THE  GOLflDEN  GATE 

The  curio  store  is  ever  present  and  found  special  attraction  at 
"Old  Faithful  Inn,"  with  its  offerings  of  the  many-colored  sands  from 
the  canyon  geyser  deposits,  and  photographs  of  the  odd  and  novel 
hotel. 

With  the  diligence  of  the  faculty  of  a  ladies'  seminary,  the  hotel 
management  orders  lights  extinguished  after  a  certain  hour.  But  to 
guide  the  belated  wayfarer,  candles  were  lighted  and  placed  about  in 
nooks  especially  in  the  walls  and  pillars  for  that  purpose.  The  effect 
was  beautiful  as  the  lights  cast  their  soft  rays  upon  the  natural 
wooded  walls  and  the  interior.  A  watchman  patroled  the  building 
with  lantern  swung  upon  his  arm,  and  added  additional  romance  to 
the  scene.  A  pilgrim  was  seated  in  a  broad  arm  chair,  concluding  a 
letter  to  a  far-off  friend  or  relative  when  the  lights  were  extinguished, 
and  with  an  accommodation  that  prevailed  among  all  attaches  of  the 
house,  the  watchman  placed  a  few  candles  upon  the  arm  of  his  chair, 
so  that  the  letter-writer's  signature  might  find  the  proper  place  upon 
the  letter  sheet. 

One  by  one  the  pilgrims  had  found  their  resting  places  for  the 
night.  If  such  a  thing  were  possible,  our  apartments  were  too  allur- 
ing and  comfortable  for  sleep.  In  accord  with  the  construction 
scheme  of  the  whole  house,  the  walls  and  doors  and  everything  per- 
taining to  the  sleeping  apartments  was  constructed  of  wood  in  its 
natural  state.  The  effect  was  so  pleasing  to  the  eyes  that  it  was  diffi- 
cult to  close  them. 

As  we  viewed  the  cheerfulness  of  the  room,  the  pleasures  and 
activities  of  the  day  were  reviewed  in  our  minds  and  the  mysteries 
of  the  marvels  of  nature  became  further  mystifying  until  relieved  by 
sleep. 


CHAPTER  X. 


HE  pilgrims  were  all  early  risers  on  the  morning  of  Monday, 
August  29.  When  we  beheld  the  odd  walls  of  the  Woodland 
Hotel  we  were  quickly  conscious  of  our  whereabouts  and  the 
glad  memories  of  the  preceding  day  were  instantly  refreshed. 
Enthused  with  the  vigor  that  saturates  the  early  riser  in  Yellow- 
stone Park,  we  responded  quickly  to  a  sunrise  call  to  breakfast  and 
ate  heartily  and  gossiped  cheerfully. 

Promptly  at  7 :30  o'clock  our  coaches  were  lined  up  and  in  wait- 
ing for  the  drive  of  the  day,  which  was  to  find  its  termination  at  the 
Yellowstone  Lake.  The  usual  anxiety  prevailed  in  making  sure  that 
all  baggage  was  ready  for  conveyance  and  that  no  companion  would 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        101 

again  be  stranded.  Just  as  we  were  assured  that  everything  was 
ready  for  the  start,  a  misunderstanding  occurred  in  which  Mr.  Joseph 
Null  and  Sir  McFarland  were  most  deeply  interested. 

Mr.  Null  was  perplexed  and  hatless.  The  latter  condition  gave 
reason  for  the  former.  Some  person  had  taken  his  cap.  Even  the 
bears  were  suspected — for  you  know  bears  are  always  bare-headed. 
Sir  McFarland  was  known  to  have  worn  a  hat  on  the  previous  even- 
ing, while  on  this  gladsome  morn  he  wore  a  cap  that  was  nowise  un- 
like the  one  which  Mr.  Null  missed.  But  as  McFarland,  as  we  already 
know,  was  the  only  man  in  the  party  equipped  with  the  good  book,  the 
investigation  was  not  carried  so  far.  Realizing  the  sedate  mannerisms 
of  the  latter,  he  was  not  cross-examined  but  in  voluntary  testimony 
admitted  that  his  hat  had  also  been  taken  and  preaching  from  the  text: 
"He  helps  those  who  help  themselves,"  admitted  that  he  had  come  in 
possession  of  the  cap  he  wore  by  contact.  However,  what  threatened 
to  become  a  case  for  Government  investigation,  inasmuch  as  the  al- 
leged connivance  was  hatched  on  Government  territory,  became 
averted  by  Sir  McFarland  gracefully  and  charitably  offering  cover- 
ing for  the  head  of  a  fellow-being  by  giving  Mr.  Null  the  cap  which 
was  his,  while  another  Sir  Knight  presented  Sir  McFarland  with  an 
auxiliary  headgear. 

As  we  stood  ready  to  enter  the  coaches,  our  royal  host  "Larry" 
rushed  out  among  us  and  bade  each  and  every  member  of  the  party 
goodbye  with  a  hearty  hand-shake  that  had  a  warmth  which  came 
straight  from  the  heart.  With  a  word  of  best  wishes  he  assisted  us 
into  the  coaches  and  with  the  crack  of  the  whip,  a  command  or  two 
from  the  drivers  and  a  rousing  hurrah  from  the  members  of  our 
party  mingled  with  those  of  the  guests  of  the  hotel  whom  we  were 
leaving  behind,  the  mustangs  pranced  high  into  the  air  and  then  shot 
forward  to  speed  over  the  roadways  to  the  end  of  the  day's  travel. 

The  route  pointed  to  the  east  and  through  the  heart  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains  until  the  trail  leads  out  on  the  West  Thumb  of 
Yellowstone  Lake.  Owing  to  the  winding  roadway  necessary  to 
span  the  mountains,  the  Continental  Divide  was  tvvice  crossed  on  the 
way,  and  a  curious  loop  was  made  to  the  northward,  the  second  cross- 
ing being  at  an  elevation  of  8,500  feet. 

In  the  far  distance  the  Grand  Tetons  were  visible,  as  the  driver 
halted  and  pointed  majestically  with  his  whip.  We  could  see  a  dim, 
vapor-like  outline,  bracketed  in  the  clouds.  It  had  the  appearance 
of  a  silvery-white  lining  of  a  fair  blue  sky  and  seemed  as  mist  rather 
than  reality. 

Following  a  slowly  descending  trail  we  reached  West  Thumb 
station  and  caught  the  first  glimpse  of  the  Yellowstone  Lake.  The 
lake  is  at  7,740  feet  elevation  and  has  a  coast-line  of  150  miles. 


102        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GAJTE 

The  lake  has  indented  bays  in  its  western  and  southern  shores, 
which  give  it  an  irregular  outline  very  similar  to  the  form  of  the 
human  hand.  There  are  five  of  these  bays  and  they  are  known  as 
the  "Thumb"  and  "Fingers."  The  "Thumb"  is  the  widest  of  these 
bays  and  as  our  stop  was  on  the  western  shore  of  the  bay  bearing 
that  name,  the  station  is  known  as  "West  Thumb."  This  station 
has  for  its  chief  attraction  a  lunch  room ;  a  long,  one-story  frame 
building,  neatly  equipped  and  clean,  and  we  were  served  with  a  plain 
but  satisfying  luncheon.  The  pilgrims  as  a  whole  found  no  startling 
innovation  at  West  Thumb  lunch  station,  although  Sir  Beckert  was 
forced  to  admit  that  he  had  lived  a  hand-to-mouth  existence  during 
his  eventful  career,  but  had  never  before  been  forced  to  take  food 
from  the  thumb. 

While  there  is  a  certain  degree  of  appropriateness  in  designating 
Yellowstone  Lake  and  its  bays  as  a  hand  with  five  fingers,  because  of 
the  number  of  its  bays,  it  must  be  admitted  with  truth  that  the  hand 
is  deformed  and  distorted.  It  is  probably  for  this  reason  that  it 
does  not  wear  the  wedding  ring. 

The  "Thumb"  is  wider  than  it  is  long;  the  forefinger  is  detached 
and  shriveled;  the  middle  finger  gives  indication  of  having  been 
dislocated  or  victimized  in  some  painful  catastrophe,  while  the  "little 
finger"  is  in  truth  the  largest  finger  of  all.  The  combination  there- 
fore, presents  a  hand  that  no  bachelor  visitor  might  be  expected  to 
plead  for. 

After  luncheon  we  paid  a  short  visit  to  the  paint  pots  and  hot 
springs  in  the  immediate  vicinity.  On  the  very  edge  of  the  lake  itself, 
and  spreading  out  into  its  very  waters,  is  an  actual  geyser  crater 
whose  waters  boil,  and  seethe,  and  bubble  over,  and  run  into  the 
cool  waters  of  the  lake. 

There  is  an  old  story  told  visitors  that  a  fisherman  can  stand 
upon  the  bank  of  the  lake  and  catch  fish,  turn  about  and  drop  them 
into  the  crater  while  still  on  the  line  and  then  detach  them  ready 
to  serve — caught  and  boiled  while  you  wait,  as  it  were.  This  op- 
portunity presents  itself  by  the  provisions  of  nature,  but  the 
only  doubt  that  rises  in  the  mind  of  the  patient  listener  of  this 
story  is  whether  or  not  he  has  cultivated  the  necessary  appetite  to 
make  fresh  caught  and  boiled  fish  palatable,  when  thoroughly 
seasoned  by  the  brimstone  and  sulphur  which  the  geyser  crater 
offers  gratis  during  the  boiling  operation. 

The  surface  about  West  Thumb  is  a  waste  of  volcanic  ashes 
through  which  vegetation  is  only  now  beginning  to  struggle.  Here 
and  there  are  cavities  bearing  many-colored  watermarks  around 
their  rims  and  filled  with  muddy  deposits.  These  signs  mark  the 
tombs  of  one-time  active  geysers  and  tell  the  tale,  even  after  death, 


UPPER    GEYSER    BASIN    TO    THE     LAKE-YELLOWSTONE 


'.riy  Oregon  Short  Line  R.  R. 

NATIONAL    PARK. 


i — Jackson  Lake  and  Teton  Mountains.  2 — Obsidian  Cliff  (  Volcanic  Glass).  3 — The  Teton  Range.  4 — Elk.  5 — Emi- 
grant Peak.  6 — Buffalo.  7— Tourists  Among  the  Bears.  8— Bear  "  A  La  Cart.''  9 — Amid  the  Spray  and  Roar..  10— Yel- 
lowstone Lake,  n — Lake  Hotel.  12 — Hayden  Valley,  between  Lake  and  Falls.  13 — Golden  Gate,  East  Entrance.  14 — Road 
to  Yellowstone  Canyon.  15 — Bridge  near  Grand  Canyon.  16 — Eagle  Nest  Rock,  Gardner  River.  17 — Golden  Gate  Canyon. 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        103 

that  their  crevices,  too,  have  nursed  the  tossed  and  turbulent  blue 
waters,  which  in  the  days  gone  by  filled  them  to  the  brim  and  flowed 
over  their  lips.  Notwithstanding  the  ravages  of  old  age  and  disability, 
the  scene  has  not  been  robbed  of  its  extraordinary  mystery  and 
beauty. 

The  air  rings  with  the  rhapsodies  of  the  raging  paint  pots,  with 
their  splutterings,  tossings,  growlings,  rumblings  and  splashings. 
The  hot,  soft  clay  is  coated  in  many  hues  and  blends — flawless 
white,  yellow-white,  red,  blue,  gray,  pink,  pale  green  and  composite 
shades,  all  muddled  and  mixed  in  a  splendor  that  dazzles  the  eye. 
Several  companions  carried  off  lumps  of  this  many-colored  clay, 
but  in  a  half-hour  it  had  dried  into  lime-dust  and  could  be  blown 
away  into  nothingness,  in  true  fable  fashion. 

Re-entering  our  coaches,  we  were  driven  over  a  rocky  and  hilly 
road.  Just  as  the  path  became  rockiest  and  when  traveling  became 
least  comfortable,  we  reached  a  point  where  we  obtained  a  better 
and  clearer  view  of  the  lake  than  had  before  presented  itself,  and 
we  lost  the  discomforts  of  riding  in  our  observations. 

Suddenly  the  pathway  took  a  downward  trend,  then  sloped  sharply. 
The  roads  were  newly  made  and  the  rains  caused  them  to  be  muddy 
and  holding.  Oft-times  we  rode  on  the  two  side  wheels  of  the  coach, 
while  the  passengers  clutched  the  seat  posts  and  each  other  in  fran- 
tic efforts  to  stay  within.  Down  and  up  we  rolled  and  tossed  like 
a  rudderless  ship  afloat  on  the  wild  wave. 

As  we  rode  onward  the  scenery  became  less  attractive  for  a  time. 
The  shores  of  the  lake  bore  uninteresting  and  uniform  slopes  and 
were  lined  with  marshes  and  pine  trees.  Occasionally  the  monotony 
was  relieved  by  tiny  islands  which  dotted  the  blue  waters,  while  at 
times  waterfowl  would  hover  over  the  marshes  in  large  numbers. 

For  two  or  three  hours  we  jogged  along,  up  and  down,  over 
the  road  that  skirts  the  lake,  with  a  dim  and  dream-like  picture  of 
a  watery  expanse,  veiled  by  the  pines,  before  us.  Gradually  a 
sprinkling  rain  that  had  been  falling  upon  us  took  courage  and  de- 
veloped into  a  heavy  downpour.  It  quickly  changed  to  hail,  which 
fell  in  such  density  as  to  screen  everything  from  view  but  the  near- 
est objects.  The  dampened  air  became  chilly  and  uncomfortable — 
it  was  more  than  chilly,  it  was  cold. 

We  wrapped  ourselves  in  gayly  colored  blankets,  which  slowly 
but  surely  turned  pale  after  sighting  the  weather  elements.  In 
other  words,  the  colors  ran  from  the  blankets  in  fear  of  the  hail  and 
rain,  and  when  we  removed  them,  we  found  the  red  and  the  blue  and 
green  and  yellow  sheltered  under  the  blankets  themselves,  and 
pressed  into  our  own  wearing  apparel. 

The  seasoned  drivers  sat  unsheltered  on  the  top  of  the  coaches, 


104        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

allowing  themselves  to  become  water-soaked  without  a  miurmur  of 
complaint,  and  if  they  gave  any  indication  of  their  feelings,  they 
seemed  to  like  it.  It  settled  the  dust  on  their  clothes. 

After  a  time,  when  we  had  entered  a  valley,  the  storm  began  to 
abate,  but  it  remained  cool  and  misty  and  the  waters  of  the  lake  be- 
came rough.  Presently  a  vast,  black  cloud  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
lake,  and  to  our  right,  dissolved,  and  uncurtained  mountains  of 
grand  proportions  and  soaring  loftiness.  They  were  black  as  the 
night,  with  the  exception  of  their  snow-capped  summits. 

Their  appearance  surprised  us,  for  we  had  supposed  that  there 
was  naught  behind  that  low-hung  blanket  of  sable  cloud  but  level 
valleys.  What  we  had  mistaken  for  fleeting  glimpses  of  dark  clouds 
were  in  reality  patches  of  snowy  crest  shredded  into  rents  by  the 
drifting  dark  clouds. 

Presently  the  Lake  Hotel  loomed  into  view  and  at  4:30  o'clock 
in  the  afternoon  we  pulled  up  to  its  entrance,  tired  after  the  rough 
ride  and  rougher  weather,  but  joyful  and  anxious  to  get  under  its 
sheltering  roof  and  enjoy  its  hospitality. 

The  hotel  was  of  rich  artistic  beauty  and  is  the  largest  in  the 
park.  Its  architecture  is  of  Colonial  type  and  the  entrance  with 
its  wide  porch  and  massive,  high  columns,  is  not  unlike  the  entrance 
to  the  White  House.  The  hotel  is  very  roomy  throughout  and  its 
long  and  wide  corridor  on  the  main  floor  was  inviting  and  com- 
fortable. 

Shortly  after  our  arrival,  Sir  Beckert  startled  us  by  announc- 
ing that  he  was  going  fishing  in  the  lake,  because  he  had  been  taught 
that  the  fish  were  more  susceptible  after  a  rainstorm  than  at 
any  other  time.  He  started  out  with  the  best  wishes  of  the  entire 
party,  and  special  instructions  not  to  allow  his  fishing  ambitions  to 
interfere  with  his  truth-telling.  He  returned  an  hour  later  with  an 
enormous  fish.  He  refused  to  tell  where  he  bought  it.  Nevertheless, 
it  was  of  such  alluring  aspect  that  all  appetites  at  once  became 
sharpened,  only  to  be  disappointed  by  the  announcement  that  it  was 
to  be  given  over  to  the  hotel  chef  for  preparation  for  breakfast  in  the 
morning. 

After  a  satisfying  dinner,  we  were  agreeably  surprised  to  find 
our  fraters  and  friends  of  Mary's  Commandery  drilling  on  the 
spacious  verandas  of  the  hotel,  fitting  themselves  for  their  showing  at 
the  Conclave. 

The  evening  was  spent  in  glorious  entertainment  among  our 
old  friends;  music,  dancing,  laughter  and  good  cheer  were  the  di- 
versities. Not  to  be  outdone  by  opposition,  this  hotel  also  had  its 
patronage  of  bears,  who  found  their  way  to  the  garbage  heap  with 
the  same  aptitude  as  their  brethren  at  the  Faithful  Inn  and  Fountain 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        105 

Hotel.  The  night  was  raw  and  cold,  and  few  ventured  outside  of 
the  cheerful  and  inviting  hostelry.  A  few  of  the  boldest  took  short 
walks  in  the  vicinity  of  the  hotel  and  lake.  Then  the  soft  gloam- 
ing, with  the  spectacle  of  the  dying  lights  of  day  playing  about  the 
crests  and  pinnacles  of  the  still  and  solemn  upper  realm  of  the  sleep- 
ing mountains  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  lake,  created  a  contrast 
that  offered  a  text  for  talk. 

There  was  no  sound  but  the  dulled,  complaining  waves  of  the 
lake  and  the  echo  of  the  laughter  and  merriment  of  those  within  the 
hotel.  On  the  outside  the  spirit  that  prevailed  was  one  of  deep, 
pervading  peace.  On  a  fair  day  or  night  it  must  be  beautiful,  but  on 
such  a  night  as  we  experienced  one  might  dream  his  life  tranquilly 
away  and  not  miss  it,  or  mind  it  when  it  was  gone. 

The  day  had  departed  with  the  small  installment  paid  by  the  sun, 
and  a  cool,  almost  wintry  night  came  with  the  stars.  Back  to  the 
hotel — a  final  smoke  on  the  veranda  facing  the  waters  and  mountains 
— a  summing  up  of  the  day's  events;  then  within  the  hotel  an  hour 
or  two  to  think  and  talk  it  over,  or  perhaps  a  few  stories  to  relate. 
A  final  "good  night,"  "good  night"  and  to  bed,  with  drowsy  brains 
harassed  with  a  mad  panorama  that  mixes  up  pictures  of  paint  pots, 
of  geysers,  of  pools,  of  hot  springs  and  of  the  lake  and  of  home,  in 
grotesque  and  bewildering  disorder.  Then  a  melting  away  of  dear 
familiar  faces,  of  scenes,  of  the  hail  and  rain,  the  tumble  and  toss 
over  new  made  roads,  and  of  the  boisterous  waves  of  the  lake — in- 
to a  great  calm  of  forgetfulness  and  peace  and  after  which — the 
nightmare. 


CHAPTER  XI. 

'RESH,  invigorating  breezes  from  the  lake  rejuvenated  the 
early  rising  pilgrims  on  the  morning  of  Tuesday,  August  30. 
The  first  call  of  the  breakfast  bell  found  a  ready  response. 
Sir  Beckert  beamed  with  delight  in  keen  anticipation  of  the 
kingly  morsel  he  felt  he  had  in  store  in  the  serving  of  the  massive 
fish,  which  it  was  alleged  he  had  caught  on  the  preceding  evening. 

When  the  first  course  was  served  Frederick  merely  whetted  his 
appetite  for  the  feast  and  graciously  promised  those  seated  at  his 
table  a  share  of  the  fish  if  their  conduct  deserved  it.  He  playfully 
tapped  his  fingers  on  the  table  to  some  tune  while  awaiting  the  tooth- 
some dish,  but  when  the  second  course  was  served  the  fisherman  grew 


106        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

anxious.  The  third  and  fourth  courses  were  passed  along,  and  still 
no  fish;  Sir  Beckert  could  only  be  quieted  by  having  his  attention 
drawn  to  the  peals  of  laughter  coming  from  another  table.  The 
climax  came  when  the  waiter  anxiously  inquired  if  there  was  "any 
thing  else?"  Then  Sir  Beckert  rose  to  his  highest  declamatory 
ability  and  in  the  pure  Shakespearean  inquired:  "Where  is  my 
fish?" 

The  waiter  shook  his  apron  and  admitted  he  did  not  have  it. 
He  scurried  off  into  the  kitchen  at  the  command  of  the  disappointed 
fisherman,  while  continued  laughter  from  the  other  end  of  the  room 
seemed  to  mock  the  dramatic  effect  of  the  scene. 

"The  fish  has  already  been  served,"  announced  the  breathless 
waiter  upon  his  return,  whereupon  there  was  a  scurry  of  fleeing  diners 
from  the  table  at  the  other  end  of  the  room. 

The  mystery  was  solved!  Some  ingenious  and  fish-devouring 
member  of  our  party  had  informed  the  chef  what  table  should  be 
decorated  by  the  carcass  of  the  fish  and  when  Sir  Beckert  viewed 
the  remains  there  was  nothing  left  for  him  but  the  "wish-bone." 

In  the  rain,  hail  and  cold  of  the  preceding  day  our  impressions 
were  not  flattering.  We  thought  the  lake  not  very  attractive. 
On  this  early  morning  we  were  free  to  confess  that  we  had  erred 
somewhat  in  our  judgment,  though  not  very  materially. 

The  east,  whose  opal  tints  we  had  previously  noted,  had 
changed  to  tender  rose  and  was  now  inundated  with  the  flames  of 
the  sun,  whose  disc  we  began  to  perceive  above  the  mountain  tops. 

The  lake  looked  like  an  immense  mirror — calm  and  beautiful. 
To  the  right  it  reflected  the  mountain  scenery  while  waterfowl 
chirped  and  flew  about  for  an  hour  or  more.  Gradually  the  spectacle 
grew  in  magnificence  as  the  beauty  of  the  morn  unfolded  itself, 
and  like  the  birds,  we  felt  inclined  to  raise  our  voices  in  song. 

About  9  o'clock  we  started  upon  the  day's  journey,  which  was 
to  find  its  wonderful  climax  at  the  Grand  Canyon.  The  road  lay 
along  the  Yellowstone  River,  which  has  its  source  in  Bridger  Lake 
to  the  southeast  of  the  park,  and  flows  northward  through  a  broad 
valley  between  generally  snow-capped  mountain  ridges  of  volcanic 
origin,  some  of  whose  peaks  rise  to  an  elevation  of  11,000  feet. 

It  is  a  sluggish  stream  with  heavy  timbered  banks,  much  of 
the  initial  valley  being  marsh.  The  river  flows  into  Yellowstone 
Lake  from  whence  we  started.  The  road  was  generally  smooth  and 
led  up  and  down  over  a  succession  of  hills.  Here  and  there  the 
path  was  narrow,  but  the  horses  were  accustomed  to  the  path  and 
never  left  it,  while  the  drivers  found  ample  time  to  entertain  them- 
selves and  their  passengers. 

So  closely  did  the  coaches  follow  each  other  at  times  that  the 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        10T 

horses  of  the  coach  in  the  rear  would  socially  project  their  noses 
into  the  rear  of  the  coach  in  front,  while  the  drivers  would  stand  upon 
their  seats  and  shout  to  one  another  in  continued  conversation. 
When  the  top  of  a  hill  was  reached  we  would  go  flying  down  the  other 
side,  with  no  change  in  the  program.  In  this  manner  we  went 
whizzing  down  a  long  incline  with  nobody  in  a  position  to  know 
whether  or  not  we  were  bound  to  destruction. 

Amidst  jesting,  singing  and  laughter,  our  conversation  would 
constantly  revert  to  the  anticipation  of  the  scenes  we  were  to  be- 
hold within  the  next  hour  or  two.  Our  drivers  and  friends  had  told 
us  of  the  wonders  of  the  Grand  Canyon,  which  neither  pen  nor  brush 
could  adequately  portray  in  splendor.  We  had  heard  of  the  preci- 
pices that  seem  to  rise  straight  up  out  of  the  bowels  of  the  earth; 
the  falls  with  their  roar  of  thunder,  dashing  into  the  canyons  below; 
the  eagles'  nests  perched  upon  the  dizzy  heights  of  the  precipice 
eaves,  and  the  rainbow-tinted  sands  and  rocks  that  bedeck  the  canyon 
sides.  We  had  heard  the  stories  of  the  beautiful  cascade  that  leaps 
from  the  rugged  heights,  robed  in  a  powdery  spray,  ruffled  with 
foam  and  girdled  with  a  rainbow.  We  longed  to  look  upon  these 
things,  for  to  look  upon  them,  they  told  us,  was  to  look  upon  the 
last  possibility  of  the  sublime  and  the  enchanting. 

It  was  because  of  this  that  we  talked  chiefly  of  the  pleasures 
that  were  to  come.  If  we  were  conscious  of  any  impatience,  it  was 
to  get  there  in  favorable  season ;  if  we  felt  any  anxiety  it  was  that 
the  day  might  remain  perfect  and  serve  us  a  flawless  gaze  upon 
these  marvels  when  they  were  at  their  best. 

The  road  carried  us  near  a  field  of  mud  geysers,  which  spluttered 
in  nervous  restlessness.  Then  we  passed  down  through  Hayden 
Valley,  on  and  on  in  proximity  of  the  Sulphur  Mountains.  Flowers 
poked  out  their  heads  along  the  water's  edge,  some  entirely  new  to 
us  while  others  greeted  us  as  old  acquaintances.  Soon  we  arrived 
at  a  large,  magnificent  bridge  whose  great  archway  spanned  a  beau- 
tiful valley.  We  drove  over  the  structure  and  then — then  we  ar- 
rived at  the  very  edge  of  the  mighty  cliff  that  stands  as  Nature's 
fitting  monument  to  her  own  glory — the  Grand  Canyon  of  the 
Yellowstone ! 

Astonished  beyond  the  most  fanciful  anticipation,  we  gazed 
down  upon  a  panorama  in  the  marvelously  beautiful  canyon;  a  deep 
gorge  where  a  glance  sweeps  from  the  rocky  heights  to  a  valley  so 
confined,  so  sombre,  so  solemn  and  beautiful. 

We  stood  at  the  very  top  of  the  canyon  at  a  place  where,  after 
continually  rising,  a  superb  sheet  of  water  found  release  and 
fell  with  a  dash  and  a  roar,  while  on  either  side  the  rocky  flanks 
steamed  with  foam.  We  ventured  so  near  that  we  were  smitten 


108        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

with  a  desire  to  place  our  hands  into  the  water  and  touch  the  roar- 
ing current. 

The  waters  cried  out  with  a  roar  as  they  made  their  first  leap, 
but  the  cry  of  fright  and  fear  of  injury  was  smothered  in  the  depth 
of  the  fall  embedded  far  below.  We  could  scarcely  move  for  pleas- 
ure and  surprise,  we  seemed  spell-bound  by  the  grandeur  which  the 
canyon  revealed.  Everything  swayed  the  spectator. 

We  leaned  upon  a  wooden  rail  nearby,  which  trembled  under 
our  weight,  and  charmed  by  the  aspect,  we  went  to  the  extremity 
of  the  rail — then  we  leaned  against  the  giant  rocks  that  seemed  to 
speak  in  thunderous  tones,  and  raged  with  effervescing  foam  emitting 
from  their  mouths,  as  the  falls  coursed  on  in  their  mad,  downward 
flight. 

Here  the  sight  became  more  threatening  as  we  stood  nearer  to 
the  frightful,  plunging  waters.  The  forbidding  but  splendid  abyss 
angrily  threw  a  shower  of  pearls  in  the  face  of  those  who  dare  ven- 
ture near.  One  becomes  enchanted  and  speechless,  and  it  is  repul- 
sive to  be  spoken  to  and  to  have  inspiration  shattered  as  one  gazes 
and  listens  to  Nature's  continuous  extravaganza — in  the  music,  the 
song,  the  cry,  the  roar,  the  thunder,  the  lightning  of  the  storm-chariot, 
the  pyrotechnics  of  the  waters,  when,  suddenly,  after  a  persistent 
gaze,  the  onlooker  feels  as  if  the  world  had  turned  upside  down. 

After  allowing  ourselves  sufficient  time  to  admire  the  prospect 
of  the  magnificent  falls,  we  re-entered  our  coaches  and  drove  along 
the  edge  of  the  precipice  to  "Point  Lookout." 

On  reaching  the  lip  of  the  cliff  and  peering  over  the  dizzy 
heights,  (from  a  point  of  general  vantage  superior  to  that  at  the 
falls)  the  wonderful  and  unique  character  of  the  magnificent  canyon 
burst  upon  us.  It  is  a  hopeless  task  to  endeavor  to  convey  in  words 
an  idea  of  the  scene  that  lay  before  us,  since,  as  was  remarked  on 
the  spot,  an  accomplished  painter,  even  by  a  series  of  views  studded 
with  the  jewels  of  his  heart,  could  but  impart  a  faint  impression  of 
the  glorious  sight;  for  to  obtain  the  color  effects  he  would  have  to 
dip  his  brush  in  the  hues  of  the  rainbow  and  allow  the  moisture  to 
dry  upon  the  canvas  with  his  own  breath,  while  his  soul  was  en- 
tranced with  awe,  and  the  spirit  of  inspiration  animated  his  very 
being. 

Reluctantly  we  made  our  way  to  the  hotel  at  the  noon  hour  and 
found  luncheon  ready,  but  our  hunger  was  keener  in  the  desire  to 
return  and  feast  upon  the  scenes  from  whence  we  had  come  than 
were  our  appetites  for  the  more  prosaic  meal  that  stood  before  us. 

We  had  an  hour's  rest  at  the  hotel  and  during  that  brief  period 
quietude  reigned  round,  and  a  spirit  of  tranquility  and  serenity 
spread  over  us,  and  entwined  the  realm  of  space  about  us.  There 


Courtesy    Oregon  Short  Lint  R.  R.      Photo,  by  F.Jay  Haynet 

GREAT    FALLS    OF    THE    YELLOWSTONE-YELLOWSTONE    NATIONAL    PARK. 


A  MERRY  ORUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        109 

was  a  something  that  seemed  to  implore,  that  plead,  that  urged,  and 
whispered  in  our  ears — "You  have  not  seen  it  all."  Nature,  like  a 
child,  was  calling  us  to  hasten  and  see  more  of  its  playthings,  and 
childlike  we  hastened  thither. 

We  drove  along  the  rim  of  the  canyon  to  "Grand  View,"  the 
"Brink"  and  other  lofty  view  points,  and  it  was  here  that  we  learned 
just  what  the  canyon  was — we  were  in  a  manner  stunned  and  unable 
to  comprehend  the  vastness  of  the  scene.  It  was  not  until  we  had 
arrived  at  the  edge  of  "Grand  View"  and  peered  over  the  edge  of 
the  cliffs  that  the  scene  dawned  upon  us  in  its  full  might,  majesty 
and  glory. 

We  could  hear  the  roar  and  see  the  rushing  waters  in  their  fall, 
then  passing  through  the  canyon  far  below  the  winding  stream  made 
its  way.  The  Crystal  Falls  formed  a  perfect  grotto  in  the  side  of  the 
canyon.  Deep  down  in  the  canyon  sides  is  the  brilliant  lining 
of  many-hued  sands — the  white,  the  orange,  the  red,  the  gray,  the 
purple — in  fact  all  colors  and  shades  known  to  man,  blended  together 
under  the  piercing  rays  of  the  sun  into  a  light  yellow,  from  whence 
the  river  achieves  its  name. 

The  river  dashes  to  the  brink  of  the  Lower  Falls  through  a 
pass  not  100  feet  wide  and  rushing  over  the  cataract,  plunges  down 
300  feet  amid  a  spray  that  showers  its  pearly  drops  about  in  mad 
confusion.  As  the  restless  current  madly  seeks  an  outlet,  its  water 
turns  in  hue  from  green  to  blue  in  variating  shades. 

It  was  an  extraordinary  panorama  that  greeted  our  eyes  as  we 
gazed  from  "Grand  View"  and  the  "Brink."  The  colors  of  the  canyon 
were  so  transcendent,  so  tender,  so  transparent,  so  harmonious. 
We  shut  our  eyes  momentarily  and  still  the  vision  remained.  We 
still  could  see  the  amber  sands;  the  pink  and  pearly  walls;  the  cat- 
aract rocks,  chocolate-brown,  black,  purple  and  polished;  the  lofty 
alpines  that  clustered  here  and  there,  bespattered  and  flecked  with  the 
yeasty  foam — over  all  the  blue  and  burning  sky,  permeated  with 
light  that  palpitated  everything  with  its  sunshine. 

As  we  look  back  upon  that  scene  the  inadequacy  of  words  be- 
comes apparent  and  all  efforts  to  describe  the  indescribable  be- 
come mere  presumptions.  Words  are  useful  instruments,  but  like 
the  etching  needle  and  the  burin,  they  stop  short  at  form.  They 
fail  in  their  effort  to  translate  color  and  striking  beauty. 

As  we  slowly  ventured  down  the  narrow  path  along  the  falls  we 
realized  that  we  had  never  before  even  dreamt  of  anything  as  lovely 
as  the  sight  we  beheld. 

We  stood  in  the  glorious  sunlight  among  pine  trees,  that, 
while  they  towered  high  into  the  air,  were  but  pigmies  like  our- 
selves in  the  presence  of  even  the  lowest  step  in  the  falls,  which 


110        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TQ  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

leaped  and  dashed  from  such  a  height  that  the  current  lost  all  sem- 
blance of  water. 

Dashing  down  over  the  rocks,  the  waters  formed  a  splendid 
bouquet  of  glistening  rockets,  which,  instead  of  rushing  heavenward, 
shot  down  as  if  from  the  blue  canopy  which  seemed  to  touch  the 
brink  far  above  us. 

Like  a  spray  of  falling  stars,  which  seemed  to  storm  down  upon 
us  in  separate  showers,  until  they  blended  together  in  bands  of  thou- 
sands in  a  grand  avalanche  of  frothy,  fleecy  foam,  the  falls  raged 
and  thundered  until  they  were  lost  in  a  seething  whirlpool  that  found 
shelter  in  the  boulders  below. 

The  most  exquisite  moment  arrived  when  we  reached  some 
spot  where  the  sun's  rays  streamed  past  and  transformed  the  light 
vapor  into  irridescent  rainbow-prisms  which  girdled  the  waters  in 
their  mystic  circle.  As  the  pyrotechnic  waters  shot  through  these 
belts  of  radiance,  they  seemed  to  carry  the  colors  of  the  dancing  sun- 
beam with  them  and  made  the  vivid  rainbow  elastic. 

When  we  again  attained  the  summit  of  the  canyon  we  bade  adieu 
to  the  exquisite  scene.  The  pathway  was  steep,  necessitating  fre- 
quent rests  under  the  overshadowing  pines  whose  feathery  branches 
fringed  the  steep  cliffs  and  served  as  weathervanes  to  show  the 
trend  of  the  breezes. 

It  was  a  silent  party  that  made  its  way  back  to  the  hotel,  for 
all  remained  in  deep  thought,  reviewing  the  wonders  of  the  canyon 
in  the  mind.  Upon  our  arrival  at  the  hostelry  we  regaled  ourselves 
with  a  satisfying  dinner. 

Following  dinner,  members  of  our  party  and  several  from 
Mary  Commandery,  who  had  again  caught  up  with  us,  offered  a 
vocal,  instrumental  and  elocutionary  entertainment,  which  found 
its  conclusion  in  an  instructive  lecture  on  the  Yellowstone  National 
Park  by  an  old  inhabitant. 

The  old  gentleman  related  some  interesting  anecdotes  during 
the  course  of  his  address.  One  bore  on  the  democracy  of  Pres- 
ident Roosevelt,  whom  he  guided  through  the  park.  The  President 
had  been  given  special  permission  to  shoot  in  the  park  but  refused 
to  accept  any  special  privileges.  The  lecturer  also  told  several  in- 
teresting stories  of  his  experience  with  buffalo,  deer  and  other  an- 
imals in  the  park.  Reverting  to  a  discussion  of  the  park  itself,  the 
speaker  said  in  part: 

"Yellowstone  National  Park,  which  covers  an  area  of  5,500 
square  miles  within  the  Rocky  Mountains,  was  set  aside  by  Con- 
gress as  a  public  reservation  and  pleasure-ground.  It  lies  chiefly 
in  northwestern  Wyoming  but  extends  into  Montana  to  the  north 
and  into  Idaho  to  the  west.  Its  store  of  natural  curiosities  is 


Courtesy  O.  S.  L.  R.  R.  and  N.  P.  R.  R. 

SCENES    AT    THE    GRAND    CANYON-YELLOWSTONE     NATIONAL    PARK. 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        111 

greater  than  that  of  any  other  area  of  equal  size  in  the  world  and 
within  it  are  the  sources  of  some  of  America's  greatest  rivers.  The 
Yellowstone,  Gardiner  and  Madison  Rivers,  the  headwaters  of  the 
Missouri  are  born  within  the  park,  while  the  Snake  River  which  is  a 
source  of  the  Columbia  of  Oregon,  and  the  Green  River  which  feeds 
the  Colorado,  find  their  source  in  this  reservation. 

"The  center  of  the  park  is  marked  by  a  great,  broad,  volcanic 
plateau  which  has  an  average  height  of  8,000  feet  above  sea-level. 
It  is  fringed  with  mountains  and  peaks  which  attain  an  extreme  al- 
titude of  12,000  feet. 

"The  park  contains  the  most  elevated  lake  in  the  world — Yellow- 
stone Lake.  The  Yellowstone  River  flows  into  the  lake,  then  out  of  it 
to  the  northward,  through  a  magnificent  canyon.  Tower  Creek,  which 
flows  through  a  gloomy  pass  known  as  Devil's  Den  and  which  at 
one  point  has  a  fall  of  156  feet,  is  the  most  remarkable  tributary  of 
the  Yellowstone.  Owing  to  the  peculiar  existing  atmospheric  con- 
ditions, there  is  frost  in  the  park  every  month  in  the  year.  Geysers, 
paint  pots,  craters,  terrace  formations,  obsidian  cliffs,  petrified  trees, 
hot  springs,  sulphur  deposits  and  similar  formations,  bespeak  of  re- 
cent volcanic  activity,  while  these  geysers  and  springs  are  unequaled 
in  number  and  magnitude  in  any  other  section  of  the  globe. 

"There  are  in  the  neighborhood  of  5,000  hot  springs  with  their 
deposits  of  lime  and  silica  in  the  park,  while  over  100  geysers  throw- 
ing columns  of  water  from  50  to  250  feet  exist  within  its  confines. 
Gorgeous  colors  and  elaborate  ornamentations  are  created  by  the 
deposits  of  the  geysers  and  springs,  and  find  their  greatest  glory  in 
the  valleys  of  the  Gardiner  and  Madison  Rivers. 

"Attempts  have  been  made  by  the  Government  to  establish  a 
huge  game  preserve  within  the  park  and  large  numbers  of  wild  an- 
imals abound,  including  deer,  elk,  bear,  big-horn  sheep  and  the  last 
herd  of  buffalo  in  the  country. 

"This  region  was  first  explored  in  1807.  A  hunter  named  Coulter 
visited  it  and  upon  his  return  to  civilization,  told  such  wonderful 
stories  of  the  hot  springs  and  geysers  that  the  unbelieving  borderers, 
in  derision,  called  it  "Coulter's  Hell."  Others  visited  it  subse- 
quently, but  their  remarkable  tales  were  generally  regarded  as  ro- 
mances. The  first  thorough  exploration  was  made  by  Prof.  Hay- 
den's  scientific  party  for  the  Government  in  1871,  and  his  report  led 
Congress  to  reserve  it  as  a  public  park." 

The  lecturer  continued,  giving  a  number  of  his  experiences  with 
the  wild  animals  in  the  park  and  furnished  a  fund  of  interesting  data 
and  statistics  as  well  as  humorous  incidents. 

Sir  Gilchrist  became  deeply  interested  as  the  lecturer  told  of  the 
springs  and  pools  on  the  plateaus  and  table-lands,  and  asked  if  bil- 


112        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

liards  as  well  as  pool  could  be  found  on  the  table-land.  The  lec- 
turer was  in  doubt  for  a  moment  and  then  declared  that  Sir  Gil- 
christ  must  have  lost  the  cue. 

Two  pathetic  incidents  occurred  later  in  the  evening  in  which 
two  members  of  our  party,  Sirs  Reel  and  Aeberli,  played  the  star 
roles. 

About  the  midnight  hour,  when  the  happy  party  was  slowly 
thinning  out,  and  one  by  one  the  pilgrims  sought  their  couches  for 
the  night,  the  startling  discovery  was  made  that  Sir  Aeberli  was 
missing.  A  commotion  at  once  ensued.  A  diligent  search  of  the 
building  failed  to  reveal  the  missing  pilgrim. 

Grave  fears  were  expressed  that  he  might  be  exploring  the  un- 
known interior  of  a  bear,  for  there  was  the  customary  delegation 
in  the  rear  of  the  hotel.  Some  thought  he  might  have  attempted 
a  Turkish  bath  within  a  geyser  crater.  Others  believed  that  the 
lecturer's  reference  to  wild  game  had  sent  him  seeking  after  "pino- 
chle" or  "sixty-six." 

Almost  to  a  man,  every  member  of  the  party  accustomed  to  late 
hours  heroically  offered  his  services  in  forming  a  searching  party, 
and  headed  by  a  delegation  of  the  employees  of  the  hotel,  who  acted 
as  guides,  we  set  out  on  our  man-hunt.  Never  was  the  territory  so 
thoroughly  gone  over.  Never  were  the  stately  pines  so  thoroughly 
shaken  in  hopes  of  bringing  a  man  out  of  a  tree.  The  searching  party 
worked  systematically,  widening  out  into  a  circle  from  a  given 
point. 

Suddenly  there  was  a  cry  of  joy  from  the  searchers  to  the  west. 
Other  members  of  the  party  hurried  to  the  scene.  There  was  Sir 
Aeberli,  seated  on  the  bank  of  Alum  Creek  with  his  feet  dangling  in 
its  waters.  He  was  serene  and  happy  and  seemed  ruffled  when  his 
bath  was  so  rudely  disturbed. 

An  explanation  was  at  once  demanded  as  to  why  he  sought 
such  an  hour  to  bask  in  the  waters  of  Alum  Creek.  Finally,  to  con- 
vince his  rescuers  that  he  was  acting  wisely  and  in  a  spirit  of  con- 
fidence, he  disclosed  the  fact  that  he  had  learned  the  waters  of 
Alum  Creek  bore  mystic  power  at  the  midnight  hour.  He  had  been 
informed  that  in  years  gone  by  a  70-year-old  man,  six  feet  tall  and 
weighing  200  pounds,  had  fallen  into  the  pool  at  the  stroke  of  12  at 
night,  and  after  swimming  about  for  a  half  hour  was  rescued  and 
found  to  have  become  regenerated.  The  old  man  was  but  10  years  of 
age,  only  5  feet  tall  and  weighed  but  100  pounds  when  dragged  to  the 
shore,  while  future  developments  showed  that  he  had  only  an  elemen- 
tary knowledge  of  arithmetic  and  had  a  keen  desire  to  play  marbles. 
As  Sir  Aeberli  did  not  have  an  opportunity  to  venture  into  the  creek 
bodily  when  rescued,  the  only  evidence  of  the  truth  of  the  parable 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        113 

which  struck  the  rescuing  party  was  the  fact  that  the  bather  is  now 
wearing  a  No.  3  shoe. 

When  "Bill"  arrived  at  the  hotel  he  was  going  all  to  pieces  with 
laughter.  His  rescuers  desired  an  explanation  and  he  went  on:  "To 
think  of  a  torchlight  procession  coming  way  out  there  in  the  woods 
at  midnight  and  carrying  me  to  the  hotel  on  their  shoulders  in  tri- 
umph !  And  yet  I  was  once  only  a  poor  boy !  It  shows  what  may 
be  accomplished  by  anyone  if  he  will  persevere  and  insist  on  living 
a  different  life." 

Another  member  of  the  party  who,  for  a  time,  was  strangely 
missing,  was  Sir  Reel.  He  was  soon  discovered  seated  on  the  edge 
of  the  Canyon  in  deep  study,  determining  how  the  varied  colors  of 
the  sands  in  the  bottom  of  the  ravine  looked  at  night.  Leaving  Sir 
Reel  undisturbed  and  in  deep  thought,  the  rescuing  party  upon 
reaching  the  hotel  with  the  Alum  Creek  diver,  hastened  to  the  room 
of  Sir  Reel  and  finding  a  new  12-inch  lighted  candle,  mischieviously 
sliced  off  an  inch,  and  lighting  it,  left  it  swimming  in  the  socket  in 
place  of  the  long,  fresh-lighted  taper. 

Shortly  after,  Sir  Reel  entered  the  hotel  and  the  conspirators 
laid  low.  Entering  his  room,  he  was  startled  to  find  that  he  had 
remained  out  long  enough  to  permit  a  12-inch  candle  to  consume 
itself.  Just  as  he  was  figuring  how  many  hours  he  had  remained 
away,  and  why  his  watch  was  so  woefully  incorrect,  one  of  the  arch- 
conspirators  entered  the  room  and  asked  if  it  was  not  too  dark  a 
morning  for  an  early  breakfast.  Sir  Reel  admitted  in  tones  of  em- 
barrassment that  he  had  just  returned  from  an  all-night  vigil  on  the 
Canyon  brink  and  admitted  that  he  was  too  tired  for  breakfast  and 
would  take  a  little  nap.  After  a  "nap"  it  took  considerable  evidence 
to  convince  Sir  Reel  just  what  portion  of  the  day  he  was  living  in. 

Meanwhile,  as  the  strayed  sheep  were  being  gathered  in,  the 
ladies  of  the  party  had  retired,  and  the  "boys,"  after  an  additional 
hour  or  two  of  amusement,  sought  their  beds. 

The  activities  of  the  day  brought  us  early  sleep,  but  not  a  lasting 
one.  In  less  than  two  hours  we  awoke  with  throbbing  temples. 
We  were  dazed,  confused,  dreamy  and  unrefreshed.  Soon  we  re- 
alized the  cause  for  it  all.  Most  of  the  day  we  had  heard  the  roar 
of  falling  water.  For  hours  we  thought  this  poetic,  but  as  we  lay  in 
our  beds,  the  distant  roar,  after  singing  us  to  sleep,  continued  in  vol- 
ume until  it  woke  us  with  heads  that  felt  sore. 

The  sensation  is  almost  unaccountable.  Almidst  apparent  pro- 
found silence,  we  heard  a  sullen,  distant,  continued  roar  which  one 
hears  when  placing  a  sea  shell  to  the  ear.  We  became  drowsy  and 
absent-minded;  there  was  no  tenacity  of  mind;  we  could  not  hold 

(8) 


114        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

a  thought  and  carry  it  to  conclusion ;  had  we  tried  to  sit  up  and  write 
our  vocabulary  would  have  been  empty,  our  pens  would  have  been 
inactive.  With  heads  tilted  up,  and  eyes  closed,  we  listened  to  the 
painful  muffled  roar  in  our  soundest  sleep.  We  listened  and 
listened — were  compelled  to  listen — and  again  awoke  at  last,  irri- 
table and  harassed. 

It  was  those  raging  waterfalls  which  we  hid  eagerly  sought  dur- 
ing the  day  that  had  created  the  mischief.  As  we  discovered  the 
identity  of  the  sleep-wrecker,  the  sensation  intensified  in  volume. 
While  the  roar  of  the  torrent  was  almost  maddening,  the  physical  pain 
it  inflicted  was  exquisite.  We  were  compelled  to  rise  and  stand  by 
the  open  window  and  gaze  out  into  the  fascinating  silence  and  soli- 
tude, and  ponder  over  it  all. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

EDNESDAY  morning,  August  31,  was  one  of  calm  beauty  as 
it  unfolded  itself  o'er  the  Grand  Canyon.    The  massive  crags 
around  the  valley  lay  "like  sleeping  kings"   robed   in  purple 
gloom,  while  the  pale,  yellow  light  crept  behind  them,  and  the 
tall  pines  formed  a  belt  of  deeper  hue  around  their. base. 

After  a  hasty  breakfast  we  departed  on  our  day's  drive, 
resting  and  lunching  at  Norris  Geyser  Basin,  passing  the  Virginia 
Cascade  en  route.  We  drove  silently  along  between  green  and  fra- 
grant banks,  the  surface  of  which  had  been  cloaked  by  a  mantle  of 
frost  during  the  night;  but  swiftly  and  silently,  as  the  glorious  orb 
which  had  opened  and  was  ready  to  rule  the  day  shot  forth  its 
searching  and  penetrating  rays,  Nature  changed  her  attire  and  trans- 
formed the  frost  to  dewdrops,  with  which  to  quench  the  thirst  of  its 
beautiful  emerald  growth,  for  the  day.  The  atmosphere  became 
more  and  more  fragrant,  with  a  sense  of  pleasure  and  contentment 
that  grew  with  the  moments. 

At  times  the  roads  and  banks  were  overhung  by  branches  that 
hid  the  path  from  view;  then  we  drove  past  noble  hills  clothed  with 
dense  foliage  to  their  tops,  while  on  the  other  side  were  open  levels, 
upon  which  the  sun  blazed  with  all  its  power;  again,  we  drove 
through  the  shadow  of  the  forest  which  contained  at  least  a  dozen 
species  of  admirable  timber  that  might  have  been  turned  to  manifold 
uses  throughout  the  land ;  in  fact, there  was  a  treasury  of  untold  wealth 
in  timber  throughout  the  park,  but  the  Government  strictly  pro- 
hibits any  tree  to  be  hewn,  except  where  branches  may  interfere  with 


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A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        115 

travel  along  the  roadways,  and  even  then  only  such  portions  are 
removed  which  are  absolutely  necessary.  The  trees  as  a  rule  grow 
erect  with  branching  columns  of  every  size,  crossclasped  to  each  other 
by  transverse  bars  in  the  upper  portions  of  the  tree. 

It  was  here  that  the  drivers  proudly  pointed  out  the  "Twin 
Tree ;"  two  giants  standing  side  by  side,  with  no  conceivable  differ- 
ence in  size,  shape,  or  circumference.  Far  up  the  trunk  of  one  tree  a 
branch  has  extended  and  grown  into  the  trunk  of  the  other  tree ;  the 
branch,  drawing  sustenance  from  both  trees,  has  grown  to  a  diameter 
of  probably  eight  inches.  The  phenomenon  of  the  "Twin  Tree"  offered 
possibilities  in  the  minds  of  the  agriculturists  in  our  party,  and  while 
offering  them  food  for  thought,  also  offered  thought  for  food.  In  this 
respect  the  "Twin  Tree"  led  Sir  Biddle  to  remark  that  by  grafting  a 
pine  tree  to  an  apple  tree  in  like  manner,  pineapples  could  be  grown 
in  inexhaustible  numbers,  while  Sir  Kreps,  who  also  had  commercial 
ambitions,  hit  upon  the  happy  idea  that  by  training  a  rubber  tree  to 
grow  into  an  oak  tree  in  similar  manner,  that  no  difficulty  would  be 
experienced  in  raising  rubber-tired  buggies. 

During  our  travels  through  the  park  we  had  seen  thousands  of 
acres  of  untouched  land — the  unblemished  face  of  virgin  Nature. 
Human  foot  ha3  never  trod  upon  hundreds  of  acres  that  came  into 
our  view  from  the  coach  seats.  Hills  and  valleys  were  choked  with 
timber  which  had  never  known  the  woodman's  ax.  Thousands  of 
trees  rent  from  their  foundations  by  the  fury  of  storms  or  tottering 
from  age  and  disability,  lay  matted  together.  Each  remains  to  lay 
where  it  falls,  and  branches  and  limbs,  even  trunks,  seek  the  earth 
from  whence  they  sprang  and  bury  themselves  into  the  ground. 
Moss  and  grass  form  the  floral  tributes  which  Nature  pays  to  these 
dead,  till  at  last,  crumbling  into  dust  as  does  the  human  form,  there 
remains  little  but  an  outline  upon  the  underbrush  of  what  was  once 
a  monarch  of  the  forest.  We  had  seen  scores  of  impressions  where 
trees  had  fallen  and  decayed,  and  returned  to  earth  with  nothing  but 
a  mere  outline  of  dust  to  be  carried  away  by  the  winds. 

Onward  we  sped  in  our  course  through  the  household  of  nature. 
Here  and  there  deer  would  venture  from  out  of  the  woods  and  taking 
a  position  near  the  roadway,  fearlessly  and  saucily  gaze  upon  the 
approaching  coaches  with  apparent  indignation,  as  if  sneering  at  the 
advance  of  uninvited  guests. 

Eventually  we  spied  Norris  Geyser  Basin  through  the  trees.  It 
appeared  like  an  immense  caldron  of  incessant  activity  as  the  steam 
jets  arose,  the  geysers  plunged  and  roared,  and  blasts  rang  through 
the  air  from  the  basin  which  covers  an  area  of  150  acres. 

The  basin  is  properly  named,  in  that  it  rests  in  a  depression  be- 
low the  general  level.  The  complete  area  appears  to  have  been  de- 


116        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

vastated  by  some  recent  furious  volcanic  deluge,  while  the  dazzling 
white  geyser  formations  and  deposits  which  cover  the  ground,  and 
the  hissing  steam,  the  bubbling  pools,  and  spraying  mud  geysers, 
give  evidence  of  another  storm  of  brimstone  and  fire  in  course  of 
preparation. 

The  surface  is  strewn  with  a  composition  of  lime,  silica,  sulphur 
and  sand,  baked  together  by  the  torrid  heat  and  cracked  into  fissures. 
As  one  treads  upon  the  surface  the  ground  has  a  hollow  ring,  indi- 
cating deep  subterranean  recesses,  while  streams  of  boiling  waters 
can  be  heard  rumbling  underneath.  Here  and  there  these  under- 
ground waters  find  release  among  the  pine  trees  and  streaming  into 
cataracts,  spray  upon  the  many-colored  and  hard-crusted  deposits. 

Like  a  community  of  an  hundred  exhaust  pipes,  an  equal  number 
of  saucy  geysers  of  all  sizes  boil  and  rage  everywhere.  The  "Steam- 
boat" geyser  lives  up  to  its  name  by  maintaining  a  continuous  loud 
roar;  the  "Black  Growler"  growls  in  basso  tones  while  pools,  paint 
pots,  hot  springs  and  other  fearsome  creatures  join  in  a  violent,  dis- 
cording chorus.  The  air  is  impregnated  with  powerful,  nauseating 
odors,  not  unlike  that  of  stale  eggs.  The  white-crusted  ground 
crumbles  under  foot,  and  as  the  sun  glares  down  upon  the  snowy  field 
the  reflection  is  blinding. 

The  "Emerald  Pool"  which  finds  place  in  the  basin,  is  a  wide 
crater  of  a  former  geyser,  filled  with  boiling  water  of  beautiful  emer- 
ald color  which  is  ever  active.  The  "Minute  Man"  is  a  popular  gey- 
ser, spouting  at  intervals  of  one  minute  and  continuing  10  or  12 
seconds.  Its  spray  rises  30  feet.  The  "Vixen"  is  delightfully  un- 
reliable, throwing  forth  its  spray  at  the  most  unlocked  for  times. 
The  "Monarch"  holds  sway  on  a  hillside,  a  portion  of  which  it  has 
blown  away.  It  spouts  once  a  day  and  its  waters  rise  to  a  height  of 
100  feet,  continuing  about  30  minutes.  Its  column  comes  from  two 
huge  orifices,  the  surplus  water  running  down  like  a  large  brook. 
When  inactive  this  geyser  industriously  boils  like  a  big  tea-kettle. 
Close  by  is  the  huge  black  "Ink  Bottle,"  which  resembles  a  pool  of 
writing  fluid,  its  rims  blackened  like  charcoal.  Nearby  were  plenty 
of  "paint  pots"  and  sulphur  springs. 

Finishing  our  stroll  through  the  geyser  basin,  we  wended  our 
way  to  the  hotel  at  Norris,  and  entering  the  dining-room,  we  busied 
ourselves  with  the  lingering  routine  of  the  table  d'  hote  with  patience 
and  satisfaction.  We  took  soup ;  then  waited  a  few  moments  for  the 
fish;  a  few  moments  longer  and  the  plates  were  changed  and  roast 
beef  was  brought  on ;  another  change  and  we  took  peas  and  patties ; 
these  were  followed  by  roast  chicken  and  salad;  then  pie,  ice  cream, 
oranges,  almonds,  green  onions  (as  large  as  door-knobs),  coffee  and 
finally  ice  water,  (uncongealed  ice  dipped  from  the  geysers,)  with 


MAMMOTH    HOT    SPRINGS    AND    NORRIS   GEYSER    BASIN-YELLOWSTONE    NATIONAL    PARK. 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        117 

every  course,  of  course,  anything  but  coarse.  With  such  a  cargo  on 
board,  digestion  would  be  a  slow  process,  but  the  30  mile  drive  ahead 
gave  assurance  of  considerable  aid. 

It  was  at  Norris  that  we  met  our  Praters  and  friends  of  Mary 
Commandery  for  the  last  time  in  the  park.  As  we  parted  (for  we 
left  the  park  by  different  directions)  we  sang  a  farewell  and  they 
reciprocated  by  singing  a  farewell  to  us.  While  from  a  critical  mu- 
ical  standpoint  the  singing  may  not  have  been  technically  correct, 
there  was  a  sentiment  in  it  which  to  us  was  beyond  criticism. 

In  a  northerly  direction  from  Norris  are  located  the  famous 
Mammoth  Hot  Springs  and  still  further  along  the  same  route  is  the 
"Gardiner  Entrance,"  or  "Northern  Gate,"  best  reached  by  the  North- 
ern Pacific  railroad.  It  was  by  this  entrance  that  Tancred  and  Mary 
parties  had  entered  and  through  which  they  left  the  park.  As  the 
drive  to  the  Mammoth  Springs  requires  a  half  day  each  way,  and  as 
we  were  anxious  to  complete  our  travels  on  original  schedule,  we 
decided  to  forego  the  privilege  of  viewing  the  springs  and  continue 
on  to  Monida. 

The  Mammoth  Springs  include  wonderfully  constructed  terraces 
formed  from  calcareous  deposits  that  cover  an  area  of  several  square 
miles.  Some  70  flowing  springs  are  in  operation,  whose  waters  rise 
to  165  degrees.  The  terraces  are  of  many  delicate  hues  and  are  in- 
dented with  picturesque  caves,  while  cones  of  extinct  geysers  rise  up 
in  bold  contrast. 

Entering  the  coaches  after  our  substantial  luncheon,  we  drove 
around  a  winding  road  and  entered  into  a  woodland  of  spruce  and 
passed  between  the  trees  in  a  serpentine  course.  The  wheels  ran 
silently  over  the  bark-strewn  mounds.  Eventually  we  were  carried 
through  the  long,  deep  canyon  of  the  Gibbon  River  and  up  a  mount- 
ain side,  offering  a  distant  view  of  Gibbon  Falls,  a  cataract  of  80 
feet,  located  down  in  the  valley. 

All  about  us  were  great  depths  of  boundless  forest  that  have  a 
beguiling  and  impressive  charm.  In  childhood  we  had  read  of 
regions  such  as  these  being  peopled  with  gnomes,  dwarfs,  fairies, 
giants  and  all  sorts  of  mysterious  creatures.  As  we  passed  through 
the  dense  forests  these  memories  returned  and  we  almost  believed 
in  the  gnomes  and  fairies  as  realities. 

Presently  one  falls  into  a  dreamy  thought  of  enchanted  folk  and 
animals  and  the  rest  of  the  pleasing  legendary  fables;  and  so,  by 
encouraging  one's  fanciful  imagination,  one  interprets  the  shadows 
that  play  between  the  forest  aisles  as  being  the  reflections  from 
mysterious  denizens  of  the  woods.  The  region  was  peculiarly  meet 
for  such  thoughts.  The  woodland  was  so  thick  and  dense  that  the 
horses'  hoofs  made  no  more  sound  on  the  soft  road  than  if  they  were 


118        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

treading  on  wool ;  the  only  sound  was  the  cracking  of  the  drivers' 
whips,  which  echoed  loud  and  long.  The  tree  trunks  were  as  round 
and  straight  and  smooth  as  pillars,  and  stood  close  together;  they 
were  bare  of  branches  to  a  point  about  25  feet  above  ground,  and 
from  thence  upwards  were  so  thick  with  boughs  that  not  a  ray  of 
sunlight  could  penetrate  them.  Outside  the  world  was  bright,  but  a 
deep  and  mellow  twilight  reigned  within,  while  a  silence  prevailed  so 
profound  that  we  seemed  to  hear  our  own  breathing. 

Turning  our  eyes  up  and  down,  right  and  left,  we  seemed  to  see 
the  same  scenes,  though  they  were  not  the  same.  New  forms  and 
combinations  seemed  to  mass  before  us  in  a  manner  incomprehensi- 
ble to  human  intellect.  The  eye  does  not  fill  with  seeing,  nor  the  ear 
with  hearing,  were  one  to  spend  a  lifetime  in  these  forests.  One 
might  spend  centuries  studying  the  species  of  trees ;  their  action  and 
reaction  upon  one  another;  their  virtues,  properties  and  uses,  and 
how  they  exist  and  grow.  One  might  ever  ask  by  what  miracle  they 
are  compacted  out  of  light,  air  and  water,  each  after  its  kind ;  whether 
they  are  stable  or  variable ;  whether  the  great  God  may  not  be  creat- 
ing new  forms  and  new  wonders  day  by  day.  Were  you  to  spend  cen- 
turies in  these  forests  determining  these  questions,  could  you  still 
answer  the  one  question  whether  these  wonders  really  exist  or  simply 
appear?  It  is  a  secret  that  may  be  hidden  from  the  philosopher  and 
yet  be  clear  to  the  infant. 

So  it  seemed  to  us  as  we  entered  the  park  on  the  first  day,  and 
so  it  seemed  to  us  on  the  last  day  as  we  were  leaving,  even  more  im- 
pressed and  awe-struck  than  upon  the  first  day.  Gradually,  as  the 
sun  began  to  sink,  there  was  a  taste  of  frost  about  and  we  drove 
swiftly  out  of  the  forest  and  into  the  open  along  the  Gibbon  River  to 
a  branch  of  the  Madison. 

It  was  here  that  the  drivers  informed  us  that  we  were  within  a 
few  miles  of  the  Inn,  on  the  border  of  the  park.  "The  stone  bruise 
to  our  memory."  Painful  memories  of  the  past  were  instantly  re- 
called. Immediately  all  guns  were  loaded  and  teeth  were  set  to  meet 
the  enemy  and  face  the  pirate  who  held  sway  over  the  mud  hovel 
settlement.  Recalling  the  manner  in  which  we  were  served  on  our 
first  visit  and  realizing  the  painful  necessity  of  patronizing  the  inn 
dining-room,  Sir  Kunberger  shed  tears  of  sorrow  over  the  fact  that  we 
had  overlooked  taking  box  lunches  from  Norris.  Sir  Shook  an- 
nounced that  unless  the  animals  objected,  he  would  sleep  with  the 
mustangs  rather  than  experience  another  night  in  the  inn  hayloft. 

Soon  we  arrived  at  the  log  and  mud  shanties  with  a  fixed  deter- 
mination to  suffer  no  abuse.  And  how  bold  the  ladies  were  as  we 
took  the  fort!  And  how  well  they  played  their  parts  as  fearless 
soldiers  with  military  bearing  and  daring,  ready  and  eager  to  face 
the  enemy. 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        119 

We  had  no  fear  upon  arriving.  Experience  gave  us  courage  and 
we  knew  what  to  expect.  The  same  old  pirate  was  on  hand  to  issue 
his  orders  and  bully  the  guests — had  he  dared.  If  there  was  one  thing 
the  inn  really  offered,  it  was  the  marked  contrast  to  other  conditions 
in  and  about  Yellowstone  Park  and  served  to  bring  out  with  stronger 
appreciation  the  pleasures  we  had  found  on  our  inland  trip.  At  this 
inn  we  found  all  the  solitude  necessary  to  make  us  dreary.  If  the 
place  and  the  pirate  were  not  food  for  "Rock-me-to-sleep,  mother," 
then  none  ever  existed.  The  scene  was  one  of  desolation,  misery  and 
poverty,  and  there  was  little  wonder  that  even  the  bears  refused  to 
eat  regularly  at  the  place. 

There  was  the  customary  line-up  in  the  "alley"  previous  to  din- 
ner. A  certain  number  were  permitted  to  canter  into  the  banquet 
hall  ( ?)  arid  when  they  had  gone  through  the  motions  of  eating  what 
was  served  them  they  were  released  by  another  door  and  a  second 
detachment  entered. 

The  meal  itself  was  beyond  description  and  once  eaten  is  never 
to  be  forgotten,  for  the  stomach  will  give  a  lasting  reminder.  We 
were  given  something  that  looked  like  meat,  but  like  the  trees  in 
Yellowstone  Park,  was  destined  never  to  be  hewn.  We  would  have 
considered  it  a  treat  had  we  been  served  with  a  lump  of  coal,  a  horse- 
blanket,  a  slab  of  marble  or  a  keg  of  nails,  instead  of  the  misrepresen- 
tations that  were  brought  to  us,  which  only  served  to  encourage  our 
appetites  but  discourage  them  immediately  thereafter.  Drippings 
from  the  "paint  pots"  would  have  made  admirable  dessert  instead  of 
the  mysterious  petrification  that  was  dished  out.  Sir  Benkart,  who 
has  talent  as  a  sculptor,  managed  by  supreme  effort  to  carve  his 
name  in  the  butter  as  a  lasting  monument  to  other  wayfarers  who 
might  be  destined  to  be  caught  in  the  web  and  meshes  of  the  hostelry. 

After  all  the  members  of  our  party  had  visited  the  dining-room 
the  Sir  Knights  serenaded  the  ladies  in  delightful  fashion,  and  for  a 
time  we  forgot  the  miseries  that  surrounded  us.  We  rehearsed  the 
same  old  songs  which  we  all  knew  so  well  and  sang  so  badly,  but 
nevertheless  it  was  music  to  our  ears  to  listen  to  our  own  voices. 
After  the  serenade  the  Sir  Knights  drilled  in  front  of  the  log  huts. 
It  was  our  first  drill  since  leaving  home  and  considering  lack  of  prac- 
tice was  very  commendable — thanks  to  Sir  Shook. 

Following  the  drill,  we  strolled  into  the  neighboring  woods  and 
were  agreeably  surprised  to  find  a  party  of  campers.  They  appeared 
to  be  gypsies  or  foreigners,  but  nevertheless  showed  a  high  degree  of 
intelligence  by  casting  their  lot  in  the  open  rather  than  patronizing 
the  Inn.  Encouraged  by  our  success  in  singing  for  our  ladies,  we 
serenaded  the  campers  and  captured  the  camp.  The  strangers  ap- 
plauded in  apparent  keen  delight  and  after  a  pleasant  hour  or  more  we 


120        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

reluctantly  left  them  to  go  to  rest  upon  the  ground,  which  we  knew 
would  have  been  exquisite  comfort  in  comparison  to  what  we  were 
destined  to  endure. 

Upon  our  return  to  the  hotel  (  ?)  the  first  mutiny  broke  out.  The 
piratical  manager  ordered  us  to  bed  and  immediately  there  was  a 
rebellion.  It  was  the  first  test  of  strength,  and  we  displayed  our 
courage  by  announcing  that  we  would  retire  when  we  were  ready.  It 
was  an  easy  victory  and  the  pirate  retired  in  disorder.  Evidently  his 
defeat  unnerved  him,  for  he  became  involved  in  all  sorts  of  "mix-ups" 
in  everything  he  attempted  to  do  during  the  evening. 

As  night  came  on  we  gathered  together  in  the  saddest,  most  con- 
strained and  dismal  of  all  places  we  had  ever  seen — the  offices  of  the 
two  log  shanties.  Here  we  were  grouped  about  in  couples,  threes 
and  fours,  and  mumbled  in  abated  voices  and  looked  timid,  homeless 
and  forlorn  in  the  gloom  that  prevailed.  The  vision  of  the  bright, 
cheerful  and  inviting  "Allegheny  Special"  which  faithfully  awaited  us 
70  miles  ahead,  came  before  us,  and  in  hopeless  discouragement  we 
slowly  retired  to  the  hayloft. 

In  assigning  the  partitions  that  served  as  rooms,  the  pirate  had 
become  badly  confused.  Sir  Tannehill  was  ushered  to  one  compart- 
ment and  had  hardly  become  reconciled  to  his  horrible  surroundings 
when  another  party  demanded  entrance,  having  been  directed  to  the 
same  apartment.  Sir  Tannehill,  rather  than  have  fellow-beings  suffer 
the  anxiety  of  sleeping  out  in  the  open  with  the  bears,  charitably 
called  over  the  partition  that  he  would  allow  the  advancing  parties 
to  sleep  under  his  bed.  However,  the  pirate  was  prevailed  upon  to 
provide  another  room. 

The  canvas  partitions  which  separated  the  rooms  reminded  us  of 
being  behind  the  scenes  in  a  ten  cent  side  show,  while  the  doors, 
which  were  without  locks,  had  to  be  held  shut  by  moving  beds  up 
against  them.  Even  the  hay  and  sawdust  which  served  as  carpet 
gave  no  sign  of  having  been  changed  since  our  first  arrival. 

Two,  three  and  as  many  as  four  were  assigned  to  one  room.  Sirs 
David  B.  Watson  and  William  S.  Watson  had  been  assigned  to  the 
same  room  and  immediately  retired  in  hopes  of  forgetting  their  sur- 
roundings. Sir  David  B.  became  restless,  but  Sir  William  S.  was 
fortunate  enough  to  pass  into  sleep  at  once.  "Davie"  did  not  like  the 
idea  of  his  bedfellow  gaining  sleep  so  soon.  There  was  something 
about  it  which  did  not  appeal  to  his  sense  of  what  was  just  and  fair. 
He  could  not  understand  how  his  brother  could  so  quickly  and  easily 
enter  the  enjoyment  of  "Nature's  sweet  restorer"  while  he  was  compel- 
led to  lie  awake  in  lonesome  misery.  "Davie"  lay  fretting  over  his  in- 
jury and  making  brave  efforts  to  sleep,  but  the  harder  he  tried  the 
wider  awake  he  grew.  He  began  feeling  very  lonely  in  the  dark  with 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        121 

no  company  but  an  undigested  dinner.  Finally  his  mind  became 
sharpened  and  he  began  thinking  of  any  and  every  subject,  but  his 
thinking  never  carried  him  beyond  the  beginning.  It  was  touch  and 
go;  his  mind  turned  from  one  topic  to  another  with  frantic  speed 
until  finally  his  head  was  in  a  whirl  and  he  was  fagged  out. 

The  fatigue  became  so  great  that  it  presently  began  to  make 
some  impression  against  his  nervous  excitement.  While  imagining 
himself  wide  awake,  he  would  really  doze  momentarily  and  suddenly 
awaken  with  a  physical  jerk  which  nearly  wrenched  his  joints  apart, 
the  delusion  of  the  moment  being  that  he  was  tumbling  over  a  preci- 
pice. The  truth  of  the  matter  was  that  the  bed  had  only  two  casters, 
one  on  each  side,  diagonally,  and  as  he  tossed  from  side  to  side  the 
bed  thumped  upon  the  floor  and  he  felt  himself  upon  the  high  seas. 

After  he  had  fallen  over  six  or  seven  precipices  and  thus  found 
out  that  one-half  of  his  brain  had  been  asleep  as  many  times  without 
the  wide-awake, 'hard- working  other  half  even  suspecting  it,  the  peri- 
odical unconsciousness  began  to  extend  over  more  of  his  brain  terri- 
tory, until  at  last  he  sank  into  a  doze,  which  grew  deeper  and  deeper 
and  was  about  to  become  a  solid,  peaceful,  dreamless  stupor  when — 
what  was  that  ? 

"Davie's"  dulled  faculties  dragged  themselves  partly  back  to  life 
and  took  a  receptive  attitude.  Out  of  an  immense,  limitless  distance, 
there  came  something  which  grew  and  grew  as  it  approached  and 
presently  was  recognizable  as  a  sound,  it  had  rather  seemed  to  be  a 
feeling,  at  first.  The  sound  was  near  by — perhaps  it  was  the  grum- 
bling of  a  bear — and  now  it  was  nearer  and  came  still  nearer  until  at 
last  it  was  right  in  the  room. 

"Davie"  awoke  to  his  fullest,  and  before  him,  upon  the  foot  of 
the  bed,  sat  a  large  gray  owl.  Not  a  night  owl,  as  in  the  generally 
accepted  sense,  but  one  of  the  feathered  flock.  At  first  "Davie"  was 
mentally  offering  a  reward  of  five,  seven,  eight,  ten  dollars,  for  that 
owl ;  but  eventually  he  was  offering  rewards  entirely  beyond  the 
means  of  even  a  Rockefeller.  Finally  he  did  what  everyone  else  has 
done  under  similar  circumstances  since  the  days  of  Noah — resolved 
to  throw  something.  He  reached  down  and  brought  up  a  shoe,  then 
sat  and  listened.  Taking  deliberate  aim,  he  fired  with  vigor.  The 
shoe,  taking  a  graceful  out-curve,  dodged  the  owl  and  crashing 
through  the  canvas  partition,  broke  a  mirror  in  the  adjoining  room ! 

Immediately  there  was  a  cry  from  the  neighboring  sleepers  who 
were  rudely  aroused  by  breaking  glass.  They  did  not  cry  out  in  fear, 
but  in  delight,  for  they  imagined,  while  yet  asleep,  that  the  breaking 
of  the  glass  was  the  welcoming  ring  of  some  dinner  bell  in  a  real 
hotel.  Explanations  and  apologies  were  soon  made  to  the  satisfaction 
of  all,  but  the  owl  had  silently  passed  out  into  the  otherwise  stilly 
night. 


122        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

HE  air  was  made  musical  by  good  cheer  after  we  had  risen  on 
the  morning  of  Thursday,  September  1st.  We  were  bound  for 
Monida,  with  a  70-mile  drive  ahead  and  anticipated  reaching 
our  own  dear  "Allegheny  Special"  by  sunset.  The  pleasure  that  one 
experiences  on  a  home-going  voyage  pervaded  every  member  of  the 
party.  Yellowstone  Park  had  been  a  revelation  and  marvel  to  us  and 
new  interest  could  be  found  every  day  for  years.  Perhaps  it  was  the 
inn  that  made  the  leave-taking  so  easy.  If  it  was,  it  is  the  only  re- 
deeming feature  the  establishment  had. 

Entering  the  coaches  we  started  on  our  long  ride.  The  scenes 
were  familiar  to  us,  having  gone  over  the  same  road  en  route  to  the 
park,  but  nevertheless  the  beauties  of  nature  had  almost  as  great  an 
interest  to  the  pilgrims  as  upon  first  sight.  Far  in  the  distance  we 
saw  a  wall  of  dreary  mountains;  some  shorn  of  vegetation,  glaring 
fiercely  under  the  sun.  They  fenced  in  great  stretches  of  level  prairie 
land  and  were  threaded  with  fine  lines  which  we  knew  to  be  roads. 
Then  there  were  mountains  whose  ribbed  and  chasmed  fronts  were 
clad  with  stately  pines  that  seemed  to  grow  smaller  and  smaller  as 
they  climbed,  till  one  might  fancy  them  reduced  to  weeds  and  shrub- 
bery near  the  summit. 

We  verily  believed  that  some  of  us  would  be  shot  before  the 
drive  of  the  day  was  finished.  After  leaving  the  inn  we  were  no  more 
within  the  park  limits,  and  there  was  no  restriction  in  hunting  game 
or  shooting.  With  this  in  mind,  Sirs  Reel,  Beckert,  Jack  and  Mr.  Null 
kept  their  hands  on  their  revolvers  almost  continuously  and  when 
least  expected  would  take  a  shot  at  some  object — often  not  visible  to 
any  other  member  of  the  party.  Each  of  these  gentlemen  were  "fancy 
shots."  They  could  shoot  "out"  curves  and  "in"  curves  and  "drops" 
that  would  dodge  any  given  target  with  an  ease  and  grace  that  was 
truly  remarkable. 

All  were  in  deadly  fear  that  murder  would  be  committed  ere  the 
drive  was  over,  and  in  order  to  save  the  state  from  the  expense  of 
an  execution  we  implored  the  marksmen  to  aim  at  us.  We  felt  that  if 
we  could  only  induce  them  to  do  this,  our  lives  would  be  perfectly 
safe  and  free  from  any  danger.  However,  the  quartet  refused  to  aim 
at  us  fearing  that  their  arms  might  suddenly  swerve  and  that  they 
might,  by  accident,  actually  hit  what  they  aimed  at.  As  it  was,  we 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        123 

were  kept  in  almost  continuous  motion  dodging  bullets  that  were 
fired  in  opposite  directions. 

Eventually  peace  was  declared  and  the  warriors  laid  aside  their 
arms  for  a  time.  We  jogged  along  stupidly  in  the  sun,  thinking 
about  things  ever  so  far  away  and  with  the  distant  look  in  our  eyes 
such  as  only  a  bank  cashier  can  affect.  Dashing  up  a  hill  at  a  stormy 
gallop  and  down  an  embankment,  we  were  once  more  on  the  bank 
of  that  self-same  Snake  River  through  which  our  horses  had  waded 
on  the  incoming  trip  and  the  performance  was  repeated.  It  was  here 
that  we  were  compelled  to  blush  with  shame  as  laurels  in  marksman- 
ship were  rudely  swept  away. 

Upon  leaving  the  inn,  one  of  the  drivers  went  out  on  a  strike  be- 
cause his  horses  had  not  been  properly  fed.  We  could  have  struck 
for  the  same  reason,  but  deemed  it  inadvisable  to  remain  in  that  ter- 
ritory any  longer  and  slowly  starve.  But  the  coachman  was  obsti- 
nate, and  in  arranging  for  transportation  for  those  who  were  to  ride 
on  the  coach  that  was  left  behind,  Leininger  secured  a  seat  among 
strangers  in  a  coach  that  immediately  followed  our  coaches.  Lein- 
inger informed  his  new  acquaintances  that  the  pilgrims  were  as  exem- 
plary a  party  as  had  ever  visited  the  region,  and  further  announced 
that  there  were  sportsmen  among  the  party  from  whose  guns  every 
living  thing  flees  in  terror.  The  listeners  were  so  visibly  impressed 
that  when  their  coach  caught  up  with  ours  on  the  bank  of  the  Snake 
River,  every  one  of  the  strangers  hid  their  revolvers  from  view  in 
order  not  to  compete  with  our  quartet  in  marksmanship. 

The  river  was  literally  covered  with  wild  duck.  Leininger  arose 
in  his  seat  and  commanded  that  the  strangers  watch  the  frightful 
slaughter,  which  he  predicted  would  exterminate  the  whole  duck 
tribe.  Then  with  great  care  Reel,  Beckert,  Jack  and  Null  pulled  out 
a  copy  of  Smith  &  Wesson's  great  book  on  "How  to  Ventilate."  They 
opened  the  volume  at  the  first  chapter  and  addressed  several  38-cali- 
bre  remarks  in  the  direction.  Immediately  the  air  rang  with  a  bang! 
de  bang-bang !  bang !  de  bang-bang-bang ! 

"No  chance  for  the  poor,  poor  ducks,"  sobbed  Leininger,  while 
the  strangers  wept,  and  the  quartet  kept  up  the  bombardment  until 
their  revolvers  were  empty. 

"We'll  never  be  able  to  count  the  dead,"  remarked  Leininger  as 
the  smoke  was  clearing  away,  and  he,  together  with  the  marksmen, 
were  whetting  their  appetites  for  a  wild  duck  dinner. 

As  Sir  Reel's  voice  broke  the  silence  with  the  singing  of  "Where 
Is  My  Wandering  Boy  Tonight?"  the  coaches  drew  nearer  and  Lein- 
inger felt  that  the  slaughter  had  been  complete. 

"How  many?"  asked  Leininger,  when  to  his  great  horror  Reel 
answered  in  tones  of  disgust:  "We  fired  nearly  100  shots  and  the 


124        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

nearest  duck  never  raised  a  wing  or  turned  a  feather."  It  is  needless 
to  add  that  Leininger  was  deaf  and  dumb  to  the  strangers  during  the 
remainder  of  the  drive. 

Gaining  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  we  continued  our  drive 
over  hill  and  vale  until  the  "hoodoo"  caught  up  with  us  for  a  moment. 
It  was  the  13th  day  we  had  been  out  from  Allegheny  and  one  of  the 
coaches  carried  13  passengers.  This  particular  coach  broke  down  and 
after  being  left  in  the  rear  for  some  time  managed  to  make  temporary 
repairs  and  continued  in  our  wake. 

After  a  time  riding  became  tiresome  and  as  we  reached  a  series 
of  hills  we  offered  rest  to  ourselves  and  the  horses  by  walking  up  the 
hills  in  front  of  the  coaches,  gathering  wild-flowers  from  the  road 
banks  and  between  the  coach  tracks. 

Arriving  in  a  deep  valley  we  viewed  extensive  plains  stretched 
out  before  us  and  caught  a  glimpse  of  Lakeview,  although  we  were 
not  destined  to  reach  that  point  for  two  hours.  Every  now  and  again 
we  caught  a  fleeting  glimpse  of  the  hostelry  at  that  place,  but  before 
we  could  take  a  prolonged  look,  another  hill  would  loom  up  and  hide 
it  from  view. 

Arriving  at  Lakeview  everyone  took  a  vigorous  wash  in  a  water- 
trough.  The  writer  uses  the  word  "everyone"  advisedly,  as  several 
members  of  the  party  insisted  that  the  public  be  fully  informed  on 
this  point  and  asked  that  the  fact  be  given  special  prominence. 

Entering  the  dining-room  we  at  once  became  conscious  of  the 
fact  that  a  conclave  of  flies  from  every  section  in  the  United  States, 
Dominion  of  Canada  and  foreign  points  was  in  session.  The  muslin- 
covered  walls  and  ceiling  of  the  rooms  were  covered,  while  flying 
squadrons  sailed  about  by  the  hundred. 

It  was  amusing  to  an  onlooker  to  see  the  gymnastics  of  the  diners 
at  the  table,  although  the  participants  could  not  appreciate  the  joke. 
One  hand  only  was  used  in  eating  while  the  other  was  continuously 
engaged  in  a  smacking  and  cracking  that  sounded  like  a  military 
engagement,  for  there  were  nearly  a  hundred  seated  at  the  tables. 
Even  the  flies  seemed  to  enjoy  it,  for  none  were  injured,  while  bald 
heads  reddened  under  the  blows  until  they  shone  like  the  sun.  With 
arms  ever  in  motion  in  similar  directions,  the  guests  looked  like  a  well- 
drilled  class  going  through  an  exercise  in  calisthenics,  and  enough 
exercise  was  provided  to  digest  the  meal  before  leaving  the  table. 

After  a  short  rest  we  started  on  the  last  relay  to  Monida  and  our 
"Allegheny  Special."  In  making  up  our  train  of  coaches  we  included 
an  elderly  lady  and  gentleman.  We  nicknamed  the  couple  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Santa  Claus,  and  they  occupied  the  last  seat  on  the  last  coach. 
Racing  between  the  drivers  was  carried  on  with  a  fury  in  the  run  to 
Monida,  but  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Santa  Claus  dozed  peacefully  and  their 


coach  soon  became  known  as  the  "bum  coach"  because  of  its  antiquity 
and  weakness  for  breaking  down  and  resting  at  frequent  intervals. 

Shortly  after  leaving  Lakeview,  one  of  the  coaches  containing 
ten  gentlemen  and  one  lady,  began  creaking  badly  and  the  driver 
stopping  and  making  an  examination,  discovered  that  one  of  the 
boxes  had  become  quite  hot.  No  water  could  be  found  for  miles 
about  and  a  consultation  was  held.  Meanwhile  coach  after  coach 
passed  until  one  came  along  that  contained  a  Sir  Knight  whose  busi- 
ness is  coach  and  wagon  building.  He  gave  his  seat  to  the  lady  of  the 
stranded  party  and  offered  some  professional  advice  that  soon  over- 
came the  trouble,  and  after  greasing  the  axle  and  replacing  the  wheel, 
the  wild  ride  to  Monida  began. 

The  coach  ran  smoothly  and  to  insure  against  further  delay  some 
"oil"  was  applied  to  the  driver.  Coach  after  coach  was  passed! 
More  "oil"  to  the  driver — and  only  one  coach  remained  ahead !  More 
"oil"  and — happy  thought — one  of  the  passengers  wagered  with  the 
driver  that  he  could  not  pass  the  single  coach  ahead.  A  bottle  of 
"oil"  was  passed  up  to  the  reinsman  and  the  wild  ride  that  followed 
will  ever  linger  in  the  memories  of  those  who  survived  it.  Suffice  to 
say  the  driver  won  the  wager  and  reached  Monida  in  the  van  of  the 
party. 

Another  exciting  race  on  this  relay  was  between  the  "Him"  coach 
and  the  "Her"  coach — these  names  having  been  designated  because 
of  the  sex  of  the  passengers.  At  one  point  when  the  "Her"  coach 
was  two  miles  in  the  lead,  a  passenger  on  the  "Him"  coach  made  the 
usual  $1  wager  with  the  driver.  The  race  for  $1  or  death  was  begun 
in  earnest.  On  the  left  was  a  ravine  of  great  depth  with  many  turns 
in  the  road.  While  making  one  of  the  curves  the  driver,  in  his  frantic 
cries  and  whip-lashings,  dropped  his  lines.  With  a  marvelous  leap  he 
succeeded  in  regaining  them  to  the  very  good  fortune  of  the  pas- 
sengers as  well  as  himself.  On  he  kept  without  abatement  of  pace 
and  shortly  after,  in  the  valley  below,  earned  his  wager  of  $1  by  suc- 
cessfully passing  the  "Her"  coach  and  holding  the  advantage.  The 
yelling  and  shouting  and  whipping  and  galloping  by  all  interested 
made  the  race  exciting  and  exhilarating  and  particularly  boisterous. 

"Three-Fingered  Mike,"  one  of  the  drivers  who  bore  that  prosaic 
title  because  he  had  lost  two  fingers  of  one  hand  in  some  wild  es- 
capade, was  notorious  for  his  fast  and  daring  and  yet  skilful  driving. 
As  he  brought  his  coach  to  a  sudden  stop  in  front  of  the  hotel  at 
Monida,  one  of  the  horses  fell  helpless  to  the  ground. 

"What  a  pity — is  he  dead?"  was  asked  by  Sir  Schwerd,  while 
others  gathered  about  and  offered  words  of  sympathy  for  the  animal. 

"Naw,"  answered  "Mike,"  "he  ain't  dead— only  tired.    That  there 


126        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

hoss  started  to  lay  down  at  the  top  of  the  hill  nine  miles  back,  but  I 
wa'n't  goin'  to  let  him  down  till  I  got  to  the  reg'lar  stoppin'  place." 

"Home"  again!  for  the  first  time  in  a  week!  Cheers  and  smiles 
bespoke  the  sentiments  of  every  pilgrim  in  the  party.  The  conductor 
"Woodzie,"  porters  and  "Faithful"  Johnstone  of  the  commissary 
were  loud  in  their  welcome.  Once  more  there  was  a  full  audience 
aboard  to  hear  the  singing  of  the  chorus  and  listen  to  the  many 
stories  and  incidents  that  were  to  be  told.  With  a  parting  salute, 
and  waving  a  last  adieu,  we  left  Monida  to  speed  onward  to  Ogden, 
Utah. 

The  seats  were  once  more  filled  and  the  good,  old  commissary 
car  was  again  pressed  into  service.  It  was  a  night  typical  of  old 
times — old  times  that  were  but  a  week  old,  but  that  week  had  been 
so  crowded  with  incidents,  adventure  and  excitement  that  it  seemed 
like  months. 

Although  we  were  fatigued  from  our  long  drive  and  exhausted 
after  facing  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun  for  so  many  hours,  we  found 
comfort  in  the  fact  that  the  pleasant  memories  of  our  trip  through 
the  Yellowstone  National  Park  (with  the  exception  of  the  inn  on 
the  border)  will  grow  with  increasing  interest  as  the  years  roll  by, 
memories  which  some  day  will  become  all  the  more  beautiful  when 
the  last  annoyance  that  incumbers  them  shall  have  faded  out  of  our 
minds,  never  again  to  return. 

Boyhood  days  are  no  happier  than  those  of  after  life,  but  we  look 
back  upon  them  regretfully  because  we  forget  our  punishments ;  such 
as  customarily  follow  a  parent's  knowledge  of  "hookey-playing." 
How  we  grieved  when  our  ball  team  lost,  or  our  kites  became  de- 
stroyed! Because  we  have  forgotten  all  the  sorrows  and  privations 
of  that  epoch  and  remember  only  the  orchard  robberies,  cellar  side- 
shows, wooden  sword  pageants  and  vacation  time. 

We  were  satisfied.  We  felt  that  our  reward  was  yet  to  come. 
To  us  Yellowstone  Park  and  the  experiences  within  it  were  destined 
to  have  an  enchanted  memory  a  year  hence — a  memory  that  was 
sure  to  grow  with  time,  and  which  to  us  would  be  priceless. 

As  our  train  glided  silently  along,  the  moon  shed  a  silvery  light 
over  the  whole  surrounding  country;  the  steep  mountain  banks  ap- 
peared in  most  fantastical  shapes,  while  the  high  oaks  on  either  side 
bowed  their  branches  and  cast  deep  shadows  over  the  track  as  we 
flew  past. 

Suddenly  there  was  a  violent  sprinkling  upon  the  window  glass. 
It  sounded  like  the  fury  of  a  violent  hail-storm.  Investigation  proved 
that  we  were  traveling  through  a  sand  desert  and  the  velocity  of  the 
train  was  sweeping  the  sand  in  clouds  against  the  coaches.  Though 
the  windows  were  kept  tightly  closed,  the  sand  nevertheless  pene- 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        127 

trated  the  window  sashes.  The  sensation  of  riding  through  a  sand- 
storm, even  though  you  create  it  yourself,  is  a  peculiar  one,  although 
by  no  means  alarming. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

N  the  light  of  the  newborn  day,  in  the  rock-walled  pocket  of  the 
mountain,  the  ghost  of  the  dead  night  found  shelter  yet.  Afar, 
upon  the  mountain-tops,  across  the  valley,  the  radiant  morn 
stepped  lightly.  Moment  by  moment  she  drew  nearer,  scat- 
tering jewels  as  she  passed,  until  every  distant  peak  gleamed  in  deli- 
cate array. 

Old-fashioned  home-life  aboard  the  train  was  re-established.  The 
cheering  and  oft-repeated  greeting  of  "good  morning"  was  expressed 
and  re-expressed  in  all  fullness  of  heart.  The  same  mass  meeting 
comprised  of  the  same  members,  was  re-assembled  in  the  commissary 
car  and,  as  ever,  was  full  of  speech-makers  who  were  invariably  inter- 
rupted. Motions  were  made  that  did  not  survive  sufficient  seconds 
to  be  seconded.  Amendments  were  offered  that  were  "born  to  blush 
unseen" — and  unheard.  Resolutions  were  offered  that  died  from 
sheer  exhaustion  in  their  efforts  to  get  "before  the  house." 

Two  mass  meetings  a  day  were  arranged  for,  but  the  custom  was 
not  to  adjourn  one  until  the  other  was  full  under  way.  New  chair- 
men were  elected  almost  with  the  tick  of  the  clock.  "Boxmen"  they 
were,  rather  than  chairmen,  if  the  nature  of  the  furniture  was  to  be 
considered.  We  were  earnestly  engrossed  in  these  labors — delightful 
labors  to  us — for  the  greater  portion  of  the  time;  and  yet,  so  often 
fallaciously,  that  whenever,  at  long  intervals,  we  safely  delivered  a 
resolution,  it  was  cause  for  public  rejoicing. 

One  of  the  disturbing  elements  of  these  deliberating  conferences 
was  the  "I  don't  want  to  hear  that"  double-sextette.  This  degree 
team  was  possessed  with  powerful  voices,  and  whenever  some  ambi- 
tious narrator  found  courage  to  spin  a  story,  or  some  talented  his- 
torian arose  to  expound  sterling  thoughts  on  the  natural  beauties  of 
the  country,  he  had  no  sooner  opened  a  new  can  of  preserved  and 
difficult  words  that  would  have  been  an  ornament  to  any  collection, 
when  the  chorus  would  enthusiastically  and  unitedly  set  forth  the 
discordant  roar — "I  don't  want  to  hear  that,  'Kunnie!'  Dou  you?" 
"No,  no !  We  don't  want  to  hear  that !"  thundered  a  chorus  of  voices. 

Amidst  these  diversities,  and  others  which   took  more  serious 


128        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

form,  in  the  coaches,  we  eventually  found  ourselves  at  Ogden,  Utah, 
shortly  before  9  o'clock  in  the  morning. 

We  were  cordially  and  fraternally  greeted  at  the  station  by  a 
delegation  of  local  Sir  Knights  who  had  a  car  in  waiting,  that  we 
might  inspect  their  city.  We  took  advantage  of  their  kind  offer  by 
an  hour's  ride.  Among  those  who  greeted  us  at  Ogden  was  Mr.  C.  A. 
Henry,  ticket  agent  at  the  Union  depot,  who  showed  our  party  special 
attention  and  every  courtesy. 

We  found  Olgden  to  be  a  city  of  enterprise.  It  is  located  at  the 
base  of  the  Wasatch  Range  on  the  Ogden  River,  midway  between 
the  Missouri  River  and  the  Golden  Gate,  and  833  miles  east  of  San 
Francisco.  It  lies  in  a  rich,  fertile  valley  and  shelters  a  population 
of  17,000.  The  Mormon  movement  of  1848  under  Brigham  Young 
included  Ogden,  while  Corrinne,  a  short  distance  west,  was  at  one  time 
the  largest  Gentile  settlement  in  Utah.  Irrigation  has  worked  won- 
derfully to  develop  Ogden  into  a  rich  grain  and  fruit  growing  region. 
In  importance  as  a  commercial  and  railway  center  Ogden  is  second 
only  to  Salt  Lake  City,  in  Utah.  Its  people  are  progressive  and  it  is 
assured  of  as  prosperous  a  future  as  any  city  in  the  inter-mountain 
region. 

Returning  to  the  station  we  were  informed  that  the  time  standard 
again  changed,  this  time  to  Pacific  standard.  The  latter  is  one  hour 
slower  than  mountain  time  or  three  hours  slower  than  Pittsburgh 
time. 

Hanley  complained  that  his  watch  could  not  become 
acclimated  to  the  many  variations  and  had  completely  failed  to  "keep 
the  hang."  It  had  grown  discouraged  and  stopped.  The  owner  con- 
tended that  if  the  standards  kept  going  back  much  further  we  would 
be  living  in  the  week  before  last  by  the  time  San  Francisco  was 
reached.  At  any  event,  he  found  consolation  in  the  fact  that  his 
appetite  contained  a  clock-work  equal  to  any  emergency  and  that  he 
could  always  feel  assured  that  it  was  meal  time  when  it  struck,  re- 
gardless whether  it  struck  12  or  not. 

There  was  considerable  delay  in  leaving  Ogden  station  and  we 
were  informed  that  preparations  were  being  made  to  take  our  "Spe- 
cial" over  the  new  short  line  known  as  the  "Ogden-Lucin  Cut-off," 
and  that  our  "Special"  was  to  be  the  second  passenger  train  to  cross 
it. 

The  "cut-off"  is  on  the  Southern  Pacific  system,  the  admirable 
"Sunset  Route,"  and  presently  we  were  bound  on  our  novel  tour.  The 
"cut-off"  is  102  miles  long,  72  miles  on  land  and  30  on  water 
over  the  great  Salt  Lake.  It  is  a  saving  of  40  miles  over  the  old  route 
which  made  a  semi-circle  over  the  northern  shore  of  the  lake.  The 
old  route  crossed  two  mountain  ranges  while  the  new  road  is  almost 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        129 

perfectly  level.  Reaching  the  lake  proper,  the  train  sped  over  a  con- 
tinuous single-track  trestle  that  seemed  to  sway  under  its  burden. 
Gravel  and  sand  from  the  newly  constructed  roadbed  crumbled  and 
rolled  into  the  lake  while  workmen,  who  were  still  employed  at  various 
points,  stood  upon  a  narrow  pathway  on  the  outer  edge  of  the  trestle 
and  anxiously  watched  the  passing  of  the  train,  eagerly  noting  its  in- 
fluence upon  the  "fill-ins"  and  roadbed.  The  "cut-off"  is  a  triumph  of 
engineering  skill  and  presented  many  intricate  problems  before  its 
construction  was  achieved.  At  one  point,  near  Promontory  Point,  a 
cut  3,000  feet  long  was  made  into  the  sand  and  rock  of  a  barren  bluff. 

It  was  at  Promontory  station,  on  the  old  line,  on  May  10,  1869, 
that  the  builders  of  the  original  transcontinental  line,  the  Union 
Pacific  and  Central  Pacific  joined  their  tracks.  The  last  connecting 
spike,  which  was  of  gold,  was  driven  with  a  silver  hammer  amid  im- 
pressive exercises.  Two  locomotives,  one  coming  from  the  east  and 
the  other  from  the  west,  met  here,  welding  the  last  link  in  the  chain 
of  transcontinental  travel.  The  Southern  Pacific  afterward  absorbed 
the  old  Central  Pacific  line. 

We  continued  across  the  great  lake  at  greatly  reduced  speed, 
owing  to  the  newness  of  the  trestle  and  roadbed.  Where  the  waters 
of  the  lake  were  especially  shallow,  or  where  the  water  had  departed 
entirely,  the  sight  was  a  most  interesting  one,  giving  the  appearance 
of  an  immense  desert  of  snow,  due  to  the  enormous  deposits  of  crys- 
talized  salt. 

In  the  early  days  Salt  Lake  was  a  much  larger  body  of  water 
than  it  appears  today,  and  undisputable  evidence  of  the  fact  is  shown 
by  the  old  shore  lines  which  are  indelibly  traced  high  up  on  the 
mountain  sides.  Researchers  have  mapped  out  these  old  water  lines 
and  named  the  ancient  lake  "Lake  Bonneville." 

Shortly  after  passing  Lucin,  Utah,  we  observed  a  small  granite 
monument  supported  by  a  mass  of  rock.  This  marks  the  Nevada  state 
line  and  passing  it,  we  entered  upon  the  Great  American  Desert  (also 
known  as  the  Humboldt  Desert)  and  the  expansive  alkaline  waste 
loomed  drearily  before  us. 

Our  next  stop  was  Tecoma,  Nevada,  where  the  celebrated  silver 
and  lead  mines  were  discovered  in  1874.  On  the  left  of  the  station 
is  a  famous  landmark,  Pilot  Peak,  a  lofty  pile  of  rock  towering  into 
the  clouds  2,500  feet  above  the  sands  and  sagebrush.  This  peak  was 
regarded  with  welcoming  reverence  by  the  emigrant  and  pioneer  who 
crossed  the  plains  in  the  early  days,  for  it  pointed  his  course  into 
valleys  and  streams  where  water  and  food  were  procurable  after  days 
of  weary  travel  over  the  desert. 

Several  small  stations  were  passed  with  scarcely  a  house  in  sight ; 
absolutely  nothing  to  relieve  the  eye  over  miles  and  miles  of  barren 

(9) 


130        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

sandy  plains,  with  here  and  there  a  cluster  of  sagebrush  valiantly 
fighting  for  life.  The  little  frame  buildings  which  serve  as  flag  sta- 
tions are  probably  the  tribute  to  civilization  of  one  of  the  mining 
camps  for  which  the  state  is  noted,  and  occasionally  a  hopeful  pros- 
pector leaves  the  train  at  these  points  and  wanders  into  the  dismal 
desert  in  hope  of  attaining  wealth  in  the  form  of  enchanting  silver, 
gold  and  lead. 

Moor  station,  which  at  one  time  was  a  good-sized  community  of 
frontiersmen  and  lumbermen  (during  the  construction  of  the  railroad) 
is  now  a  deserted  village.  At  this  point  there  is  a  down  grade  of  311 
miles  to  the  Nevada  Desert.  As  we  passed  these  numerous  little 
stations  the  monotony  of  the  barren  waste  became  stronger,  while 
the  railroad  tracks  had  a  peculiar  interest,  in  that  we  recognized  in 
them  a  connection  with  the  world. 

It  was  while  passing  these  way-stations  that  an  interesting  mass 
meeting  was  in  session  in  the  commissary  car.  Several  had  declared 
their  surprise  at  not  having  seen  much  of  the  wild  game  for  which  the 
west  is  noted  and  which  they  had  hoped  to  see  upon  their  natural 
playground.  Following  the  expression  of  this  sentiment  Mr.  Null 
declared  with  pride  that  he  had  seen  several  "flocks"  of  coyotes  and 
urged  his  hearers  to  be  upon  the  lookout,  for  his  trained  sportsman's 
scent  informed  him  that  there  were  some  in  the  neighborhood.  With 
eager  eyes  the  "commissary  delegation"  scanned  the  country  for 
miles  around  from  out  the  open  door  of  the  commissary  car,  as  the 
train  sped  its  course.  With  drawn  revolver  (22  calibre,  a  bullet  from 
which  wild  game  takes  with  pleasure,  and  begs  for  more)  Null  bravely 
awaited  the  foe.  Suddenly,  with  an  exclamation  of  joy,  he  pointed 
to  a  spot  a  short  distance  ahead,  crying  out:  "There  is  a  flock  of 
coyotes!  See  them!"  Before  answer  could  be  made,  we  were  upon 
them,  and  with  a  bang!  bang!  bang!  he  had  discharged  his  baritone 
instrument  upon — upon  a  harmless  community  of  prairie  dogs. 

It  required  a  map  and  several  allopathic  doses  of  logic  to  con- 
vince Null  that  coyotes  and  prairie  dogs  were  "birds  of  a  different 
feather,"  and  it  was  at  his  good-natured  expense  that  much  amuse- 
ment was  afforded  in  the  commissary  car,  in  a  full  and  complete  dis- 
cussion of  his  "flock"  of  coyotes. 

Gradually  our  eyes  and  minds  reverted  to  the  lonely  and  deserted 
sands  that  ran  out  to  meet  the  horizon  on  every  side.  Desolation  was 
complete  and  in  its  completeness  drew  an  impressive  picture  that 
led  the  onlooker  into  mysterious  dreams.  There  were  no  ploughed 
fields,  very  few  settlements,  no  trees  nor  grass  nor  vegetation  of  any 
kind  save  the  few  straggling  patches  of  sagebrush.  At  times  we  rode 
for  scores  of  miles  without  even  the  sight  of  a  hut  or  the  faintest  clue 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        131 

of  humanity,  or  even  animal  life.  It  was  a  complete  blank — an  unin- 
viting, smileless,  appropriately  named  desert. 

One  becomes  enwrapped  in  serious  thought  at  first  in  glancing 
o'er  this  hapless  land — an  effect  that  many  confound  with  weariness. 
With  a  sky  unchanged  from  horizon  to  horizon  and  a  deadly  silence 
over  all,  one  becomes  lost  in  the  solitude  and  the  onlooker's  very  soul 
seems  to  fade  out  into  the  nothingness  that  lies  before  him.  Now 
and  again  a  sort  of  deserted  village  is  swiftly  passed ;  then  a  little 
verdure,  sandy  islets  and  lastly,  a  few  reefs  of  whitish  calcareous  stone 
on  the  outer  edge  of  an  ocean  of  sand.  So  much  sameness ;  so  little 
variety,  with  scarcely  a  motion  but  the  slow  steady  passage  of  the 
rising  sun  in  the  east  to  its  setting  beneath  the  sand  limits  in  the  west. 

Scarcely  a  twilight  smiles  upon  the  scene  of  emptiness,  though 
occasionally  there  is  a  sudden  expansion  of  light  and  warmth  with 
burning  winds  that  momentarily  give  the  landscape  a  melancholy 
glare  that  causes  grewsome  sensations.  Normally  there  prevails  a 
radiant  immobility,  a  kind  of  impossibility  that  seemed  to  have  fallen 
from  the  sky  upon  lifeless  things,  and  from  them  to  reflect  into  human 
faces.  After  a  time  the  eye  became  accustomed  to  the  endless  ex- 
panse as  it  glared  under  the  flaring  sun  in  the  nakedness  which  was 
relieved  only  by  the  sagebrush  and  the  repulsive  cactus,  and  if  any 
astonishment  was  experienced,  it  was  over  the  still  remaining  sensi- 
bility to  such  slightly  changing  effects  and  at  being  so  deeply  im- 
pressed with  that  which  was  but  so  simple. 

We  rarely  saw  a  moving  creature  on  these  pathless  sands.  But 
for  the  telegraph  poles  stalking  ghost-like  across  the  desert,  it  would 
seem  as  if  we  had  passed  the  limits  of  civilization  and  were  moving 
o'er  the  threshold  of  a  land  unexplored. 

Following  dinner,  the  "warrior  band"  repaired  to  the  commissary 
car  only  to  find  it  in  semi-darkness  owing  to  trouble  with  the  Pintsch 
lights.  Johnstone  was  equal  to  the  occasion,  and  at  one  of  the  little 
stations  where  we  stopped  for  a  moment,  he  alighted  and  "borrowed" 
a  few  lanterns.  While  there  was  a  perceptible  difference  in  the 
lights,  Sir  Craig  contended  that  the  change  was  immaterial,  and  that 
in  place  of  Pintsch  lights  we  had  "pinched  lights." 

The  customary  entertainment  was  afforded  in  the  commissary 
car  and  among  new  diversities  introduced  was  a  "Con"  clave.  It 
wasn't  a  triennial  affair,  but  we  were  willing  to  try  it  on  any  and  all. 

As  we  reached  Palisade  we  were  somewhat  startled  to  hear  a 
scramble  of  feet  on  the  roof  of  the  commissary  car.  Making  an  in- 
vestigation, we  discovered  that  two  "knights  of  the  road"  were  bask- 
ing on  the  promenade  deck.  Realizing  that  the  "professional  travel- 
ers" were  compelled  to  take  the  first  train  in  sight  in  a  country  where 
two  trains  a  day  is  the  limit,  we  instructed  Sir  Harry  W.  Lowrie, 


132        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

chairman  of  our  committee,  to  present  our  compliments  to  the  gentle- 
men upstairs.  The  suggestion  was  carried  out  but  received  no  re- 
sponse, possibly  that  the  tramps  on  the  roof  thought  we  were  "beneath 
them." 

Several  towns  of  more  or  less  interest  were  passed  during  the 
evening  and  night.  Leaving  Palisade,  and  passing  through  a  12-mile 
canyon,  Cluro  was  reached.  Beowawe,  Shoshone  and  Battle  Moun- 
tain are  stations  in  the  Humboldt  Valley,  which  serve  as  distributing 
points  for  the  mining  camps  both  north  and  south  of  the  railroad. 
Passing  through  many  ranches,  we  came  to  Stone  House,  a  station 
deriving  its  name  from  an  old  building  that  formerly  served  as  an 
eating  house  and  stop-over  in  the  days  of  the  stage  coach.  Many 
conflicts  between  the  early  settlers  and  Indians  occurred  at  this  point. 
Passing  Iron  Point  we  came  to  Winnemucca,  the  county  seat  of 
Humboldt  county.  It  is  a  mining  center  of  considerable  importance 
and  is  rife  with  traditions  from  the  days  of  the  emigrants. 

It  was  considerably  later  than  the  midnight  hour  when  we  reach- 
ed Humboldt,  which  is  known  as  the  oasis  of  the  Great  Desert.  It 
possesses  a  lake  that  has  an  altitude  equal  to  that  of  the  Great  Salt 
Lake  in  Utah.  Almost  in  the  midst  of  the  desert,  with  barrenness  and 
desolation  on  every  side,  stands  this  oasis  with  its  verdant  green. 

Most  of  the  pilgrims  had  long  since  retired  when  Humboldt  was 
reached,  although  a  few  were  still  gathered  in  the  commissary 
car.  "Bobbie"  sang  a  few  songs  in  "sugar-coated  doses"  which  made 
them  easy  to  take.  He  was  voted  a  nightingale ;  for  all  were  agreed 
that  he  was  at  his  best  at  night  and  in  the  gale.  Just  as  he  had  com- 
pleted his  last  song,  we  thought  we  heard  a  distant  call  coming  from 
over  the  desert.  We  listened  and  it  was  repeated.  It  was  some 
Indian  warrior,  responding  to  what  he  had  mistaken  in  "Bobbie's" 
song  as  the  warcry  of  a  rival  tribe. 

As  we  looked  out  into  the  stilly  night  with  its  deep  shadows  of 
darkness  stretched  o'er  the  mighty  expanse,  our  thoughts  reverted  to 
the  possible  unwritten  history  of  the  years  gone  by,  which  the  desert 
could  disclose  if  it  would. 

We  thought  of  the  present  conditions  and  future  possibilities  as 
compared  with  those  in  the  same  region  in  the  days  of  our  forefathers. 
We  sought  into  the  "future  with  a  hope  to  learn  what  coming  enter- 
prise could  effect,  in  bringing  water  to  relieve  the  thirst  of  this 
parched  waste  and  transform  it  into  the  flower  garden  of  the  middle 
west. 

We  had  often  looked  up  into  the  midnight  skies ;  at  the  Southern 
Cross  in  the  Pacific;  and  the  Milky  Way  in  the  Tropics;  at  Mars 
and  the  so-called  canals  and  at  the  Opal  widths  of  the  moon ;  from  the 
snowy  tops  of  mountains,  and  down  into  the  bowels  of  the  earth ;  but 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        133 

never,  never  had  we  studied  the  past,  the  present  and  the  future 
under  such  extraordinary  circumstances,  and  with  such  peculiar  and 
enchanted  environments,  as  on  this  night,  crossing  the  Great  Ameri- 
can Desert. 

Meditating  in  the  stilly  and  solemn  night,  what  does  not  enter 
the  mind?  As  our  thoughts  wandered  aimlessly  o'er  the  vast  realm 
of  space,  what  did  the  power  of  thinking  convey  of  that  arid  and  re- 
pulsive desert,  which  for  years  upon  years  served  only  as  a  barrier 
against  the  advancement  of  civilization. 

Nor  had  Nature  always  been  in  the  same  mood  as  she  prevailed 
through  the  many  years  over  this  wide  stretch  of  discouragement 
and  nothingness.  For  in  winter  she  clothed  the  countless  acreage 
with  a  deep  cloak  of  snow,  and  for  a  summer  garb,  applied  the  burn- 
ing, ceaseless  rays  of  a  penetrating  sun  to  sprinkle  them  with  a  gray 
mantle  of  saline  alkali  dust.  Under  either  condition,  this  mighty  ex- 
panse preserved  the  common  characteristics  of  barrenness,  inhospi- 
tality  aiid  misery,  after  which  a  Idnging  for  Home  above.  So,  so  many 
prayers  have  been  answered,  for  buried  beneath  the  burning  sands 
lay  untold  secrets  materialized  by  the  dry  and  parched  bones  of  men 
who  wandered  a  step  too  far  in  search  of  the  mysteries  that  might  lie 
beyond,  or  the  wealth  that  remained  unrevealcd. 

Not  many  years  ago  there  were  no  inhabitants  upon  this  land  of 
desolation.  A  band  of  Indians  may  have  occasionally  traversed  it  in 
order  to  reach  other  hunting-grounds ;  but  the  hardiest  of  the  braves 
were  glad  to  lose  sight  of  the  awesome  desolation  and  find  themselves 
once  more  upon  the  prairie.  Occasionally  the  coyote  would  stalk 
among  the  sage  brush,  and  the  buzzard  sail  slowly  over  the  vast 
expanse  in  search  of  a  new  victim,  who  was  probably  driven  to  the 
dust  by  thirst;  but  aside  from  these  and  a  few  carnivorous  animals, 
no  living  thing  would  linger  upon  the  treacherous  sands. 

This  waveless  sea,  within  sight  of  human  eye,  was  dusted  with 
alkali,  intersected  only  by  sparse  clumps  of  dwarfish  chapparel  bushes. 
The  deep  silence  of  overhanging  death  was  ever  present.  Rarely  did 
bird  ruffle  the  air,  nor  was  there  a  move  upon  the  dull,  gray  earth — 
above  all,  there  prevailed  absolute  and  uninterrupted  silence.  There 
was  no  semblance  of  sound  in  all  the  mighty  wilderness  of  nothing- 
ness ;  nothing  but  silence — complete,  heart-subduing  silence. 

Desolation  was  occasionally  relieved  by  a  pathway  trending  its 
way  across  the  desert  and  winding  itself,  further  and  further  out, 
only  to  become  lost  in  nothingness  in  the  extreme  distance.  Rutted 
with  wheel-marks  and  trodden  down  by  the  feet  of  adventurers  and 
prospectors,  they  tell  the  tale  of  daring  ambition  intertwined  with 
pathos.  For  here  and  there  lay  scattered  white  objects  which  glis- 
tened and  shone  under  the  sun,  and  stood  out  in  bold  relief  against 


134        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

their  alkali  bases.  What  were  they?  Bones!  Some  large  and  coarse 
— others  small  and  delicate.  The  former  told  of  the  perishing  of  cattle 
and  beasts — the  others  lay  as  pathetic  monuments  to  the  memory  of 
men,  some  who  had  been  counted  among  the  living  by  hopeful  rela- 
tives and  friends,  long  after  they  fell  to  rise  no  more  from  the  yearning 
sands  of  the  desert.  For  miles  one  could  have  traced  this  ghastly 
caravan  route  by  the  bones  of  man  and  beast  which  fell  by  the  way- 
side. 

But  today — today!  chiefly  through  the  establishment  of  the  rail- 
road, civilization  is  being  introduced  by  means  of  little  settlements 
that  dot  the  desert  at  distant  points  and  serve  as  commissary  stations 
to  give  sustenance  to  the  mining  camps  and  ranges,  whose  residents 
strive  to  overcome  uninviting  natural  conditions  in  hopes  of  gaining 
a  livelihood  and  possible  wealth.  Today,  the  enterprise  of  man,  first 
by  railway  building  and  then  by  the  invention  of  modern  machinery 
and  various  forms  of  irrigation,  is  facing  the  terrors  of  the  desert 
which  vanquished  their  valiant  forefathers  and  have  at  last  succeeded 
in  encroaching  upon  the  arid  waste. 

But  what  does  the  future  offer?  Can  hope  spring  out  of  this  bar- 
ren and  endless  field  of  arid  land?  As  one  looks  out  upon  the  desert 
and  meditates  and  contemplates  over  the  past  and  present,  these 
questions  cannot  fail  but  arise.  Water !  Water !  Water !  That  is  the 
cry  that  goes  up  silently  but  eloquently  from  the  parched  dust.  And 
why  not  water? 

Not  many  years  ago  California,  whose  luxuriant  Sacramento 
Valley  adjoins  the  Humboldt  Desert,  and  the  paradise  of  vineyards 
and  pleasant  fruit-growing  valleys  of  Santa  Anna,  San  Gabriel  and 
San  Bernardino,  to  the  south,  which  border  on  the  Mojave  Desert 
(a  part  of  which  they  once  were,  and  STILL  ARE)  were,  within  the 
memory  of  many,  just  as  arid  as  are  the  sands  of  the  Great  American 
Desert  to-day.  Irrigation  will  be  the  emancipator  of  the  desert! 
When  the  increasing  influx  of  foreigners  to  our  shores  becomes  a 
matter  of  important  concern,  as  it  should  now  be,  and  when  the  de- 
velopment of  the  west  becomes  a  national  issue,  as  it  surely  must- 
then  will  the  American  mind  exert  itself,  and  from  watersheds  in 
the  north  there  will  flow  the  life-giving  blood  through  the  veins  of 
irrigation  that  will  quicken  the  pulsation  of  this  enormous  fevered 
body,  and  from  it  will  spring  forth,  not  only  sustenance  for  man  in 
the  shape  of  grain,  cattle,  fruit  and  flowers,  but  there  will  arise  a  land 
of  cities  and  villages  which  will  be  to  California  what  California  is 
to-day  to  the  rest  of  the  country. 


Courtesy   Southern  Pacific  Co.  and  Mr.  Frank  S.   Thattr. 

SCENES    ON    THE    SOUTHERN    PACIFIC-THE     NORTHWEST     AND     SACRAMENTO 


VALLEY 


THE     GREAT     AMERICAN     DESERT, 

i — Mount  Tacoma.  2 — Moonlight  on  Puget  Sound.  3  — Oneonta  Gorge,  Cascade  Mts.  4 — Mt.  Ranier.  5 — The  Backbone  of  th( 
Sierra  Nevada.  6 — The  Snowy  Crest  of  Mount  Shasta.  7 — Sierra  Blanca.  8 — Sentinel  Hotel,  Yosemite.  9-11 — Rounding  Cape  Horn 
10 — Lake  Tahoe  near  Tahoe  Tavern.  12 — The  Canyon  of  the  Sacramento.  13— The  Upper  Sacramento,  near  Sims.  14 — View  fron 
English  Hills,  near  Vacaville,  Solano  County.  15 — Mt.  Shasta  and  Edson  Fruit  Ranch  near  Gazelle.  16 — Cattle  on  Rancho  del  Rio  deloi 
Molinos,  near  Red  Bluff.  17 — Looking  Southeast  over  Maywood  Colony  near  Corning.  18 — Capitol  at  Sacramento,  California.  19- 
Head  of  Capay  Valley  near  Rumsey. 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        135 


CHAPTER  XV. 

T  was  early  on  the  morning  of  Saturday,  September  3,  when 
we  again  looked  out  upon  the  apparently  endless  desert.  Be- 
ing far  removed  from  the  chain  of  cities,  we  would  naturally  be 
in  the  country;  where  the  grass  sparkles  with  dew,  the  air 
intoxicating  with  fragrance  lent  by  the  flowers,  while  the  birds  should 
have  serenaded  us  from  out  of  the  tree-tops.  But  alas !  there  was  no 
dew,  no  flowers,  nor  birds,  nor  trees. 

Shortly  after  sunrise  the  whole  country  bore  a  rosy  hue ;  a  vivid 
rose,  with  depths  of  peach  color ;  a  town  in  the  distance  was  spotted 
by  points  of  shadow  and  to  our  great  surprise,  some  palms  were 
scattered  about,  gleaming  gaily  enough  in  the  mournful  landscape 
which  for  a  short  moment  of  freshness  seemed  to  smile  at  the  rising 
sun.  How  the  palms  came  to  be,  or  whence  they  came,  were  ques- 
tions we  could  not  answer ;  lest  they  were  planted  as  an  experiment  by 
some  horticulturist.  Vague  sounds  seemed  to  penetrate  the  air  with 
a  suggestion  of  singing  that  made  us  understand  that  every  country 
and  land  on  earth  has  its  joyous  awakening. 

Presently  we  reach  a  village,  whose  size  might  call  for  the  more 
dignified  term  "town."  It  was  Wadsworth,  Nevada,  in  the  valley  of 
the  Truckee  where  are  located  the  famous  borax  mines.  Wadsworth 
is  278  miles  east  of  San  Francisco.  After  passing  a  small  station, 
Vista,  Nevada,  we  reached  Reno,  one  of  the  most  important  centers 
in  the  state  of  Nevada  and  a  town  with  a  population  of  8,000. 

Reno  is  the  county  seat  of  Washoe  county,  and  was  named  in 
honor  of  General  Reno,  who  was  killed  at  the  battle  of  South  Moun- 
tain. The  city  is  probably  the  most  modern  and  best  equipped  in 
Nevada  and  is  important  as  an  educational,  commercial  and  mining 
center,  and  as  this  is  a  silver  region,  the  town  has  extensive  smelting 
mills. 

One  of  the  most  important  steps  yet  taken  by  the  United  States 
Government  towards  irrigating  the  arid  lands  of  the  west  has  been 
in  the  construction  of  the  Truckee-Carson  project  near  Reno. 

The  huge  headgates  on  the  Truckee-Carson  canal  are  of  con- 
crete, all  of  one  piece,  and  present  an  impregnable  appearance.  With 
ordinary  care  they  will  last  for  centuries,  defying  storms  and  floods 
and  keeping  the  water  under  absolute  control  at  all  times.  The  work 


136        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

testifies  to  the  fact  that  the  government,  with  its  expert  engineers  and 
ample  funds,  is  able  to  come  to  the  aid  of  the  west  with  projects  of 
a  lasting  character,  and  while  encouraging  and  desiring  irrigation 
work  by  private  capital,  has  the  ability  to  undertake  the  greater 
works  with  a  completeness  and  permanency  beyond  the  reach  of 
individual  funds.  By  this  project  water  is  taken  from  the  Truckee 
river  at  a  point  two  miles  above  Wadsworth,  Nevada,  to  the  channel 
of  the  Carson  river  by  a  canal  31  miles  long.  The  canal  will  irrigate 
350,000  acres. 

The  opening  of  the  Truckee-Carson  project  was  celebrated  just 
three  years  from  the  passage  of  the  Reclamation  Act,  on  June  17, 
1902.  It  was  the  first  great  step  in  the  rebuilding  of  Nevada.  Shortly 
after  10  o'clock  in  the  morning,  Mrs.  Francis  G.  Newlands,  wife  of 
Senator  Newlands  of  Nevada,  who  is  the  "Father  of  the  Reclama- 
tion Act,"  broke  a  bottle  of  champagne  over  the  headgates.  The 
members  of  the  congressional  committees,  including  five  of  the  17 
who  drafted  the  Reclamation  Act,  the  governor  of  Nevada,  the  gov- 
ernor of  California,  the  distinguished  body  of  citizens  and  legislators, 
turned  the  cranks,  the  headgates  lifted,  and  the  cool  waters  of  the 
high  Sierra  rushed  through  the  canal  to  the  thirsty  desert.  It  was 
more  than  a  step  in  the  upbuilding  of  Nevada ;  it  was  a  move  toward 
the  reclamation  of  the  whole  west.  It  was  the  consum'mation  of  the 
dreams  of  years,  and  of  the  men  who  had  worked  long  and  faithfully. 

Millions  of  acres  of  arid  land  in  the  west  will  be  thrown  open 
to  the  farmer  through  irrigation  and  the  huge  projects  which  the 
government  has  on  hand  under  the  national  Reclamation  Act.  This 
act  will,  it  is  claimed  by  the  most  enthusiastic  irrigation  experts, 
open  the  way  for  the  mightiest  AngknSaxon  cultivation  the  world 
has  ever  known.  The  work  which  the  government  is  executing  in 
constructing  great  storage  and  diversion  dams,  and  in  building  canals, 
laterals  and  headgates,  is  the  largest  undertaking  of  the  kind  in  the 
history  of  the  United  States. 

Thirty-one  miles  southward  is  Carson  City,  the  capital  of  Nevada, 
and  21  miles  farther  the  famous  silver  mining  town  of  Virginia  City, 
built  half  way  up  a  steep  mountain  slope  and  completely  surrounded 
by  mountains.  Virginia  City  stands  directly  over  the  noted  Corn- 
stock  Lode,  and  here  are  the  Bonanza  Mines,  which  were  such  prolific 
producers  in  the  great  silver  days.  The  lode  has  produced  over  $450,- 
000,000,  chiefly  silver,  and  it  is  drained  by  the  Sutro  Tunnel,  nearly 
four  miles  long,  which  cost  $4,500,000  to  construct.  Here  are  also  the 
mines  of  Tonapah. 

Continuing  westward,  we  arrived  at  Verdi.  Shortly  after,  we 
reached  State  Line,  a  small  village  whose  great  importance  lies  in  the 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        137 

fact  that  it  marks  the  boundary  line  between  Nevada  and  California, 
and  in  another  moment  we  were  within  the  great  and  glorious  state 
of  California.  It  was  with  the  greatest  delight  that  we  entered  the 
fairyland  of  fruit,  flower  and  sunshine,  and  the  things  which  have 
made  the  region  famous  lay  before  us  in  all  their  splendor. 

Passing  Floriston,  whose  greatest  pride  lies  in  a  large  paper  mill, 
we  reached  Truckee,  the  gateway  of  the  wonderful  Sacramento 
Valley,  a  veritable  "Garden  of  Eden"  in  its  wonderland  of  agricul- 
tural bliss. 

While  Truckee  is  200  miles  removed  from  San  Francisco  we  were 
greeted  at  this  point  with  flying  banners  bearing  the  insignia  "In  Hoc 
Signo  Vinces,"  and  the  phrase,  "Welcome,  Sir  Knights."  As  our 
train  entered  the  station,  a  delegation  of  local  Sir  Knights  and  their 
friends  greeted  us  with  a  rousing  welcome  and  the  "Special"  stopped 
long  enough  to  permit  us  to  step  out  among  them  and  exchange 
greetings. 

One  of  the  first  objects  of  interest  that  met  our  eyes  as  we 
alighted  was  an  Indian  and  his  squaw.  Mrs.  Indian  was  reclining 
lazily  upon  a  pile  of  earth  with  her  face  heavily  veiled,  while  Mr. 
Indian,  a  dirty  and  unkempt  citizen,  tried  to  play  high  finance  with 
the  passengers.  Many  efforts  were  made  to  secure  photographs  of 
the  redskin  couple,  but  every  effort  was  met  with  a  firm  demand  for 
liberal  remuneration.  Mr.  Indian  endeavored  to  sell  permits  to  take 
Mrs.  Indian's  picture  at  $5.00  per  pose,  but  no  one  was  curious 
enough  to  pay  that  price  to  have  her  lift  her  veil.  Nevertheless, 
several  snapshots  of  the  couple  were  surreptitiously  secured. 

We  found  Truckee  an  interesting  spot,  especially  so  because  of 
the  contrast  it  offered  to  the  long  stretch  of  desert  over  which  we 
had  passed.  The  town  is  important  as  a  commercial  center  because 
of  its  being  the  distributing  point  for  a  large  tributary  country.  It 
was  burned  down  in  1868  and  again  during  the  following  year.  In 
1870  it  was  burned  down  twice ;  once  more  in  1874  and  1875  "China- 
town" was  destroyed  by  fire.  About  one-third  of  the  population 
consists  of  Chinamen.  The  town  is  also  a  famous  mountain  resort, 
being  5,890  feet  above  sea-level.  Lake  Tahoe  and  Independence  Lake, 
both  famous  mountain  lakes,  are  each  about  14  miles  from  Truckee. 
Lake  Tahoe  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  sheets  of  water  in  the  world, 
22  miles  long,  10  to  14  miles  wide  and  from  100  to  2,000  feet  deep. 
It  is  so  clear  that  the  bottom  is  distinctly  visible  at  a  depth  of  60  to 
70  feet,  surrounded  by  snow-clad  mountains,  and  yet  it  never  freezes. 
In  a  region  of  many  lakes,  it  is  known  as  "the  gem  of  the  high  Sierras." 

Three  miles  west  of  Truckee,  near  Lakeview  station,  we  saw 
Donner  Lake  from  the  car  window.  The  lake  is  named  after  the 


138        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

Donner  party  who  starved  in  its  vicinity  in  the  pioneer  days.  The 
lake  is  a  beautiful  body  of  placid  water,  completely  surrounded  by 
lofty  mountains. 

Shortly  after,  we  arrived  at  Summit,  the  highest  point  on  the 
Sierra  Nevadas,  7,017  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  This  is  not  the 
highest  land  of  the  Sierra  Nevadas,  for  the  peaks  around  us  rose  to 
an  altitude  of  over  10,000  feet.  The  scenery  was  impressive.  Bleak 
and  bare  granite  mountains,  deep  gorges,  sparkling  waterfalls  and 
beautiful  lakes  lie  within  sight. 

Just  before  arriving  at  Summit,  a  succession  of  tunnels  and 
snow-sheds  were  passed  through  with  such  rapidity  that  it  was  hard 
to  determine  just  when  we  emerged  from  one  and  entered  into  an- 
other. While  passing  through  one  of  the  snow-sheds  our  coaches 
became  considerably  scratched  and  splintered  by  a  projection.  This 
accident  grieved  "Woodzie"  very  much,  and  while  he  could  by  no 
means  be  held  accountable  for  the  occurrence,  he  was  sadly  dis- 
appointed in  the  thought  of  entering  the  Conclave  city  with  blem- 
ished cars. 

From  Summit  the  descent  was  rapid ;  the  road  winding  down, 
mile  after  mile,  while  the  mountain  scenery  was  stupendous  and  awe- 
inspiring  in  its  magnificent  grandeur.  The  little  stations  we  passed 
on  the  way  carried  memory  back  to  the  old  days  by  their  names, 
which  have  the  flavor  of  mining  camps.  Some  were:  Rocker  Pan, 
Schovil  Pass,  Emigrant  Gap,  Blue  Canyon,  Shady  Run,  Towles,  Alta, 
Dutch  Flat  and  Gold  Run.  At  present,  however,  while  mining  is 
still  pursued,  the  land  is  blooming  with  orchards  and  bedecked  with 
vegetation. 

Some  distance  to  the  northward,  the  whole  country  being  moun- 
tainous and  the  lower  slopes  covered  with  forests  of  splendid  pines,  is 
the  grand  snow-covered  dome  of  Mount  Shasta,  one  of  the  noblest 
of  the  Cascades  (in  California  called  the  Coast  Range),  rising  14,440 
feet,  a  huge  extinct  volcano,  having  a  crater  in  its  western  peak  2,500 
feet  deep  and  three-quarters  of  a  mile  wide.  Beyond,  the  Sacramento 
Valley  stretches  far  away  southward,  passing  Chico  and  Marysville, 
to  Sacramento.  It  was  to  the  eastward,  near  Colonia,  that  the  first 
discovery  of  California  gold  was  made  in  February,  1848,  on  the 
farm  of  Colonel  Sutter,  the  county  having  been  appropriately  named 
El  Dorado. 

Reaching  Cape  Horn  we  not  only  entered  upon  scenes  of  ut- 
most grandeur,  but  entered  upon  a  roadbed  of  amazing  construction. 
Cape  Horn  is  a  projection  of  rock  from  out  of  the  mountain — a  shelf, 
as  it  were,  carved  out  of  the  faces  of  startling  precipices.  Around 
this  ledge  a  framework  of  track  has  ingeniously  been  laid  and  as  the 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        139 

train  crawls  around  it,  a  picture  of  blue  depths  was  presented  that 
will  live  forever  in  memory.  As  we  looked  out  of  the  car  windows 
we  could  see,  2,200  feet  below,  a  mere  thread  zigzaging  hither  and 
thither  in  its  course.  It  was  the  American  River  seeking  its  golden 
channel.  From  the  dizzy  height  we  could  see  the  washed-out  banks 
of  Iowa  Hill  to  the  east,  and  the  orchards  and  vineyards  in  the  west 
Southward  was  a  rough  sea  of  mountains  whose  peaks  rose  and  fell 
like  the  wave. 

Passing  several  small  and  unimportant  villages  we  reached  Au- 
burn, a  beautiful  town  in  the  Sierra  foothills.  It  enjoys  liberal  irri- 
gation and  its  surroundings  are  a  maze  of  orchards,  vineyards  and 
other  forms  of  vegetation.  It  has  already  attained  fame  as  a  health 
resort  because  of  the  evenness  of  its  climate. 

The  largest  and  most  comprehensive  irrigation  project  which 
the  government  has  under  consideration  is  the  reclamation  of  2,000,000 
acres  of  land  in  the  Sacramento  valley.  Water  will  be  conserved  by 
means  of  seven  huge  reservoirs  and  distributed  over  the  valley, 
which  is  250  miles  long  and  from  20  to  60  miles  in  breadth.  Here 
the  problems  of  irrigation,  reclamation,  navigation  and  drainage  arc 
all  closely  connected,  for,  with  the  storage  of  waters,  the  crest  of  the 
spring  floods,  which  have  so  often  broken  the  levees  on  the  lower 
reaches  of  the  Sacramento  river  and  destroyed  millions  of  dollars 
worth  of  property,  will  be  controlled.  The  climatic  conditions  in 
the  Sacramento  valley  are  far  less  extreme  than  those  in  the  desert 
regions. 

Although  the  government  contemplates  irrigation  for  the  bene- 
fit of  homesteaders,  and  endeavors  so  far  as  possible  to  undertake 
works  with  the  view  of  bringing  water  to  available  government  lands, 
yet,  in  the  event  that  individuals  are  willing  to  sub-divide  lands,  and 
to  sign  a  contract  which  will  prevent  land  speculation  anticipating 
increased  values  through  irrigation,  irrigation  works  will  be  under- 
taken under  the  Reclamation  Act  where  the  land  is  in  private  owner- 
ship. This  is  the  case  in  the  Salt  River  valley,  Arizona,  where  a 
dam  capable  of  impounding  enough  water  to  irrigate  200,000  acres  of 
land  will  be  constructed.  The  settlers  in  that  section  have  gone 
ahead  and  accomplished  marvels;  the  government  is  coming  to  their 
aid.  In  the  Sacramento  valley  the  land  is  mainly  in  large  holdings, 
there  being  individual  ranches  of  100,000  acres  in  extent.  The  Cali- 
fornia promotion  committee  has  heard  from  many  of  the  big  land 
owners  that  they  will  sub-divide  their  holdings. 

Presently  excessive  heat  seemed  to  quiver  in  the  air  everywhere. 
Looking  far  down  in  the  valleys  below,  the  origin  was  detected  in 
a  huge  raging  forest  fire.  The  baking  atmosphere  was  distressing, 


140        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

while  the  reflection  of  the  sun  from  the  red,  sandy  earth,  was  blind- 
ing. The  sky  was  like  an  oven-top  without  ventilation,  the  wind 
which  was  carried  up  from  the  forest  fire  was  so  pungent  that  it  was 
difficult  to  keep  the  hand  out  of  the  car  window  any  length  of  time. 

Each  succeeding  flame  burst  forth  with  greater  radiance,  en- 
veloping each  previous  one  in  its  blaze  that  seemed  to  illuminate  the 
very  skies.  Aided  by  a  brisk  wind,  the  fire  spread  rapidly,  and  with 
the  continued  cracking  of  burning  trees,  saplings  and  bushes,  like 
charges  of  musketry,  a  thrill  of  excitement  was  lent  to  the  destruc- 
tive scenes.  Trees  creaked,  groaned,  then  fell  with  a  splintering 
crash  before  the  furiously  raging  demon  of  fire.  Clouds  upon  clouds 
of  smoke  lifted  themselves  from  the  scene  of  devastation  like  curtains 
that  arise  to  disclose  the  ravages  of  an  unchecked  onslaught. 

Coats  and  vests  were  laid  aside  while  we  sought  the  good,  old 
commissary  car  as  does  the  wayfarer  an  oasis  on  the  desert.  The 
heat  was  sufficiently  intense  to  induce  thermometers  to  boil  when  com- 
pelled to  face  it  and  make  the  mercury  run  from  the  tutoe  to  seek 
shelter  elsewhere. 

The  fire  in  the  valley  spread  rapidly,  and  the  train  was  sent  along 
with  increasing  speed.  We  learned  subsequently  that  the  fire  (a  day 
or  two  later)  reached  the  snow-sheds  at  Blue  Canyon,  Towles  and 
Reno,  and  that  not  only  did  the  railroad  suffer  great  loss,  but 
traffic  was  tied  up  for  a  day  or  more,  delaying  many  Knight  Templar 
"Specials." 

The  fruit-growing  towns  of  Auburn,  New  Castle,  Penryn,  Loomis, 
Rocklin,  Roseville  and  Antelope  were  passed  and  the  whole  country 
was  rife  with  orange,  lemon  and  apricot  orchards  and  vineyards,  while 
other  semi-tropical  fruits  grew  riotously. 

After  a  delightful  ride  through  this  garden  country  we  finally 
reached  the  beautiful  city  of  Sacramento,  90  miles  east  of  San  Fran- 
cisco. As  we  entered  the  station,  a  big  crowd  was  at  hand  to  give 
us  a  rousing  welcome,  and  when  the  train  came  to  a  stop  we  were  met 
by  an  escort  of  Sir  Knights  from  San  Francisco  who  greeted  us  with 
sincere  and  marked  cordiality.  They  were  jolly,  good  fellows  and 
their  every  action  bespoke  hospitality. 

It  transpired  that  one  of  the  escorts  was  formerly  a  resident  of 
Allegheny,  and  while  we  were  shaking  hands,  one  with  the  other, 
an  impressive  scene  ensued  when  Sir  William  G.  Lee  and  this  former 
Alleghenian  recognized  one  another.  Never  was  a  more  enthusiastic 
greeting  exchanged.  With  a  kiss  they  threw  their  arms  around  each 
other's  necks.  It  was  a  marked  example  of  how  truly  small  the  world 
is,  and  in  what  unlooked-for  places  we  may  encounter  those  whom 
we  best  know. 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        141 

The  meeting  in  general  at  the  Sacramento  station  was  impres- 
sive. Never  was  a  better  example  given  of  man  meeting  man,  friend 
meeting  friend,  brother  meeting  brother,  with  hand  full  of  welcome 
in  its  fraternal  grasp  and  heart  full  of  love  in  its  every  pulsation. 

Sacramento,  the  capital  of  the  state,  is  a  city  of  about  35,000 
population.  As  a  city,  it  is  probably  one  of  the  most  beautiful  com- 
munities in  the  country.  Its  streets  are  well  shaded,  while  beautiful 
gardens  blooming  with  almost  tropical  luxuries,  abound  on  every 
side.  In  enterprise  the  city  is  also  deserving  of  great  respect.  This 
is  best  shown  in  the  fact  that  in  1850  a  fire  left  but  one  house  stand- 
ing; in  1854  a  fire  again  destroyed  the  city;  in  1851  and  1852  floods 
caused  devastation,  and  again  in  1861  and  1862  the  city  was  in- 
undated. Sacramento  arose  dauntlessly  from  all  these  elements  to 
greater  prosperity,  and  now  has  established  itself  above  the  flood 
line. 

The  escort  boarded  our  train  and  we  started.  What  robust, 
jolly,  good  fellows  they  were!  They  too,  had  suffered  perceptibly 
from  the  excessive  heat;  a  fact  that  was  eloquently  told  by  their 
wilted  collars.  They  assured  us,  however,  that  within  an  hour  we 
could  wear  our  light  overcoats  with  every  degree  of  comfort,  which, 
as  soon  as  we  reached  San  Francisco  Bay,  proved  eminently  true. 

The  run  from  Sacramento  to  San  Francisco  under  escort  of  these 
royal  Californians  was  a  fitting,  crowning  pleasure  to  our  eventful 
transcontinental  tour.  Everyone  was  trying  to  hear  and  be  heard 
at  the  same  time.  Both  guests  and  hosts  had  so  much  to  tell  one 
another  and  so  many  questions  to  ask  and  answer.  Not  to  be  out- 
done we  decided,  inasmuch  as  the  Californians  were  escorting  us  to 
the  Conclave  city,  that  we  would  do  a  little  escorting  ourselves.  And 
we  did.  We  escorted  them  into  the  commissary  car.  An  impressive 
scene  then  took  place.  We  put  our  California  brethren  through  all 
the  degrees — from  118  in  the  sun  to  one  or  two~below  in  the  refriger- 
ator. There  always  were  several  below  in  the  refrigerator,  due  of 
course  to  the  ice! 

So  impressive  were  the  greetings  exchanged  in  the  commissary 
car  that  even  Johnstone  expressed  a  wish  to  become  a  Knight.  He 
confided  this  to  Schwerd,  and  the  latter  informed  him  that  he 
had  one  advantage ;  while  some  people  might  say  that  he,  as  compared 
to  our  party,  was  as  different  as  darkness  and  dawn,  there  was  no 
question  but  that  he  looked  like  a  night — his  complexion  being  dark- 
ness itself. 

As  the  "Special"  neared  San  Francisco,  our  committee  issued 
orders  that  every  Sir  Knight  don  his  fatigue  uniform.  Then  the 
usual  skirmish  of  dressing  and  packing-up  ensued.  As  we  reached 


142        A'  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

Benicia,  formerly  the  capital  of  the  state,  the  atmosphere  became 
considerably  cooler.  Passing  the  little  station  of  Port  Costa  we 
entered  upon  the  last  hour's  run  into  San  Francisco. 

On  the  right,  for  the  entire  distance,  lies  the  magnificent  expanse 
of  San  Francisco  Bay,  a  magnificent  inland  sea  and  one  of  the  finest 
harbors  in  the  world,  50  miles  long  and  10  miles  wide,  connected  with 
the  Pacific  Ocean  by  the  strait  of  the  Golden  Gate,  five  miles  long 
and  a  mile  wide.  The  bay  is  separated  from  the  ocean  by  a  long 
peninsula,  having  the  city  of  San  Francisco  on  the  inside  of  its  north- 
ern extremity.  A  delightful  ride  along  the  bayside,  made  pleasanter 
by  the  cooling  winds  that  blew  over  the  waters,  brought  us  to  the 
beautiful  tree-bowered  city  of  Oakland,  from  which  point  the  first 
glimpse  of  the  Pacific  was  obtained  and  then  the  Golden  Gate  opened 
before  our  eyes. 

As  our  train  wended  its  way  slowly  through  the  beautiful  garden 
city  of  Oakland,  we  could  clearly  see  the  heights,  slopes  and  levels 
of  a  great  city  across  the  bay.  From  out  of  the  massive  built-up 
blocks  there  arose  the  spires  and  steeples  that  mark  a  great  munici- 
pality, while  high  above  the  shore  proudly  floated  hundreds  of  flags 
and  banners  proclaiming  to  the  breeze  that  it  was  a  city  of  joy  and 
festivity. 

It  was  the  Conclave  city !  A  city  which  we  had  come  thousands 
of  miles  to  realize — and  as  it  stood  out  before  us  in  bold  relief  against 
the  deep-blue  sky,  we  gazed  upon  it  with  mental  satisfaction  in  the 
achievement  of  our  ambitions  and  desires,  which  had  overcome 
mountain,  vale  and  prairie — yes,  and  even  the  desert. 

Here  we  crossed  the  bay,  entered  the  Ferry  depot,  and  set  foot 
upon  the  soil  of  San  Francisco.  The  ladies  were  placed  in  the  care  of 
a  committee,  while  the  Sir  Knights  formed  in  line  for  a  march  and 
escort  to  the  hotel. 

At  the  entrance  of  the  Ferry  Depot  we  were  met  by  a  detach- 
ment of  Sir  Knights  awaiting  us.  After  an  exchange  of  courtesies  be- 
tween Sirs  Harry  W.  Lowrie,  Herman  Flechsig  and  Oscar  Schulze, 
our  committee,  and  the  San  Francisco  Fraters,  the  Sir  Knights  of  the 
Conclave  city  at  once  assumed  the  duties  of  escort  and  both  bodies, 
under  the  banners  of  their  respective  Commanderies  and  headed  by  a 
magnificent  band,  moved  up  Market  street. 

Once  on  the  great  thoroughfare  the  sidewalks  became  speedily 
crowded.  The  march  up  Market  street,  escort  and  pilgrims  marking 
time  to  stirring  music  of  the  band,  presented  a  pretty  sight  and 
gained  special  attractiveness. 

From  Market  street  we  turned  into  Ellis  street  and  as  we  drew 
up  in  front  of  the  hotel  the  crowd  had  grown  considerably  in  size. 


Twenty-Ninth  Triennial  Conclave 

;-^        ^-   ~ 
|<-- 

e 


San  Francisco,  CaL  September MDCGCCf 


scfl,  San  Francisco,  Cal. 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        143 

The  command  was  halted  in  front  of  the  hotel  and  the  escort  stepped 
forward  and  bade  the  Sir  Knights  of  Allegheny  Commandery  wel- 
come to  the  city.  Members  of  our  committee  responded  fittingly, 
after  which  personal  congratulations  were  exchanged  and  the  warm 
grasp  of  the  hand,  the  friendly  and  Knightly  welcome  to  each  and  all 
of  us  by  the  local  Sir  Knights  present,  made  us  feel  perfectly  at  home. 
The  band  then  struck  up  another  air  of  welcome,  after  which  the  es- 
cort gave  the  marching  salute  and  at  a  quick  pace  they  returned  from 
whence  they  had  come  to  meet  and  greet  other  arrivals. 

First  impressions  convinced  us  that  our  headquarters  were  not 
of  the  highest  standard.  No  meals  were  provided  in  the  establish- 
ment ;  the  accommodations  were  limited  and  what  service  there  was, 
was  not  of  the  best.  However,  we  were  quite  willing  to  overlook  a 
few  discomforts  and  make  due  allowance  for  the  crowded  and  con- 
gested condition  of  the  city,  and  after  our  experiences  at  the  inn  (on 
the  border  of  the  Yellowstone  Park)  we  felt  that  we  were  "trained 
to  the  minute"  to  endure  any  and  all  hardships  of  hotel  life. 

Europe  may  pride  itself  upon  its  cosmopolitan  hotels,  but  it  is 
safe  to  declare  that  a  hotel  never  existed  on  the  two  hemispheres 
which  was  better  equipped  to  entertain  a  congress  of  nations  than 
was  the  one  that  sheltered  us  during  the  Conclave.  The  hostelry 
was  conducted  by  a  lady  proprietor  and  manager.  A  small  weazy 
fellow  that  appeared  to  be  semi-French  and  semi-Italian,  was  gen- 
eral utility  man  and  served  as  head  porter  and  head  bell-boy.  He 
stepped  as  daintily  and  gently  as  a  cat  crossing  a  muddy  street.  A 
noisy,  irritable  Chinaman  ran  the  elevator;  male  Japanese  did  the 
housework  and  negroes  supervised  the  furnaces,  while  a  Russian  was 
in  command  of  the  boiler-room.  When  this  international  staff  of 
employees  became  divided  in  their  opinions,  which  was  not  an  un- 
usual occurrence,  a  debate  ensued  that  was  not  only  forceful,  but 
as  interesting  as  it  was  variated.  The  Chinese  elevator  man  became 
easily  angered,  and  when  under  such  a  spell  would  deliver  an  oration 
in  jargon,  and  relieve  himself  of  argument  in  a  mixture  of  Chinese 
and  English  that  was  a  privilege  to  hear,  and  fully  worth  the  cost 
of  a  week's  accommodation.  He  was  always  ready  to  begin  and 
continue  an  argument  and  was  the  means  of  providing  the  best 
entertainment  the  hotel  afforded.  In  starting  the  elevator,  he  would 
frequently  enter  into  an  argument  with  some  passenger  on  the 
ground  floor  and  continue  to  expel  his  confused  and  stimulating  dis- 
course during  the  complete  ascent.  As  the  shrill  voice  of  the  Mon- 
golian grew  fainter  and  fainter,  while  the  elevator  continued  its 
upward  course,  the  effect  was  most  amusing,  recalling  to  mind  the 
argument  with  a  Russian  who  went  up  in  a  balloon.  The  Japanese 


144        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

were  about  the  most  obliging  and  quiet  .nation  represented  on  the 
"board  of  control,"  although  it  would  have  taken  something  more 
than  the  Hague  Peace  Tribunal  to  maintain  harmony  among  all 
the  foreign  ambassadors  represented  under  this  one  roof. 

Entering  the  hotel,  we  were  within  a  small  lobby  where  a  stair- 
way and  elevator  crowded  each  other  in  an  effort  to  find  place.  The 
"office"  was  on  the  second  floor.  It  was  about  the  size  of  a  "Punch 
and  Judy"  cabinet,  and  bore  an  opening  similar  to  a  ticket  office 
window.  It  was  from  this  point  of  vantage  that  "Judy"  transacted 
her  business.  Lined  about  the  "office"  were  a  few  chairs  offering 
unenthusiastic  welcome  to  the  weary.  In  order  to  avoid  publicity 
in  case  of  an  international  conflict  with  the  employees  of  the  house, 
most  of  our  Sir  Knights  subscribed  themselves  upon  the  hotel  reg- 
isters under  non-de-plumes.  According  to  "Judy's"  records  such 
illustrious  persons  as  "John  L.  Sullivan,"  "Kit  Carson,"  "Buffalo 
Bill,"  the  "James  Boys"  and  Pawnee  Bill"  were  finding  shelter  in 
the  house. 

We  were  assigned  to  our  quarters,  and  probably  in  an  effort  to 
keep  us  from  becoming  too  lonesome,  four  and  six  members  of  the 
party  were  in  many  instances  assigned  to  one  room.  After 
supervising  the  proper  placing  of  our  baggage,  we  formed  an  at- 
tacking force  and  left  the  hotel  in  search  of  the  best  dinner  in  San 
Francisco,  and  surely  there  is  no  reason  to  believe  but  that  we  secured 
it. 

No  conception  can  be  formed  of  the  appetites  we  poor  and 
weary  pilgrims  had.  We  were  being  hourly  benefited  by  the  ocean 
breeze  and  the  crisp,  bracing  air  that  swept  over  us  from  the  Pacific, 
notwithstanding  the  fact  that  since  leaving  home  we  had  seen  each 
other  growing  stouter  day  by  day. 

We  were  not  compelled  to  search  long  before  we  came  upon  a 
large,  handsome  and  tastefully  decorated  dining  place,  of  which  the 
city  is  blessed  with  many.  Here  we  not  only  found  comfort,  but 
fared  sumptuously  of  a  magnificent  dinner  comprising  all  the  good 
things  of  this  life. 

Everything  about  the  place  was  tidy  and  clean,  the  food  was 
well  prepared,  and  the  waiters  attentive  and  polite.  An  air  of  fes- 
tivity pervaded  the  place.  Scores  of  Sir  Knights  and  their  ladies 
were  constantly  coming  and  going,  and  all  was  in  gala  attire.  Every- 
one was  affable  and  sociable;  laughter,  joy  and  good  cheer  were 
predominant.  Upwards  of  200  sat  about  innumerable  small  tables, 
feasting  and  conversing.  The  streets  were  thronged  with  joyous 
pleasure-seekers  and  entrancing  music  prevailed,  both  within  and 
without.  Life  and  action  all  about  us  lent  enthusiasm,  while  a  dizzy 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOUDEN  GATE        145 

maze  of  elaborate  illumination  and  decorations  gave  the  whole  picture 
a  magnificent  setting. 

The  city  was  dressed  in  holiday  attire,  her  gates  were  open  to 
receive  her  guests,  her  streets  and  homes  were  lighted,  the  tables 
were  spread  and  the  feast  was  set  for  the  Sir  Knights  that  came 
across  the  continent  and  from  beyond  the  sea  to  partake  of  the 
blessings  so  lavishly  showered  upon  the  state.  And  there  was  ample 
for  all  who  gathered  within  the  "Golden  Gate"  during  the  festive 
week  to  feast  their  eyes  upon  the  great  display  and  Knightly  hos- 
pitality of  the  metropolis  of  the  Pacific. 

After  dinner,  we  walked  for  miles  over  the  principal  thorough- 
fares. All  were  brilliantly  lighted  in  bright  colors  and  flashing  con- 
stellations, while  handsomely  attired  men  and  women  thronged  the 
sidewalks.  It  was  a  scene  of  splendor,  activity  and  cheerfulness, 
and  conversation  and  laughter  prevailed  everywhere.  There  were 
greetings  and  exchange  of  salutes  almost  continuously  among 
Sir  Knights  who  had  known  no  previous  relationship  other  than  the 
inseparable  bonds  of  fraternity. 

The  splendor  probably  inspired  Sir  Robert  to  take  a  step  which 
he  had  hoped  to  realize  since  childhood.  From  earliest  infancy  it 
had  been  his  cherished  ambition  to  some  day  be  shaven  in  the 
most  gorgeous,  palatial  barbershop  that  existed  this  side  of  fairy- 
land. To  repose  at  full  length  upon  a  cushioned  reclining  chair 
surrounded  in  a  confusion  of  luxury.  His  ambitions  sought  frescoed 
walls  and  gilded  arches  with  vistas  of  columns  stretching  far  above 
him,  Oriental  perfumes  and  incense  to  intoxicate  his  senses  and 
soothe  him  into  a  dreamland  of  music  and  song.  Sir  Robert  came 
across  an  establishment  during  his  walk  which  offered  him  a  real- 
ization of  his  desire.  As  he  sank  into  a  chair  and  ordered  the  full 
menu,  he  dozed  into  a  continuation  of  his  dream,  and  felt  that  at  the 
end  of  an  hour  he  would  awake  to  find  his  face  as  smooth  and  soft 
as  an  infant's ;  that  his  every  hope  would  be  realized,  and  that  de- 
parting, he  would  lift  his  hand  and  declare:  "Heaven  bless  you,  my 
son !" — but  Sir  Robert  didn't  say  anything  of  the  sort — neither  did  he 
get  a  realization  of  his  dream — but  he  did  get  a  bill  for  $2.85,  and 
his  blessing — well,  that  is  a  private  matter  which  it  is  not  the  privi- 
lege of  the  writer  to  go  into. 

Several  members  of  our  party  took  short  street-car  rides  in  an 
effort  to  get  more  extended  views  of  the  city.  In  one  of  these  parties 
was  Sir  Reese  Tannehill,  and  while  feasting  his  eyes  upon  the  great 
panorama  on  the  sidewalks,  his  car  gave  a  sudden  lurch  and  Sir 
Tannehill's  arm  went  through  the  glass  in  the  door,  completely  shat- 
(10) 


tering  it.  He  delivered  a  short  extemporaneous  speech  to  the  con- 
ductor, making  offer  to  pay  for  the  damage.  The  latter  graciously 
refused  to  accept  the  kind  offer,  declaring  that  Sir  Reese  could  lay 
the  matter  before  the  superintendent,  who  was  stationed  further  up 
the  line.  When  this  individual  was  found,  he  declared  that  Sir 
Tannehill's  pain  would  recompense  the  company's  pane,  and  gave 
him  permission  "to  go  and  break  three  or  four  more"  and  no  charge 
would  be  permitted.  The  incident  served  to  illustrate  the  regard 
which  the  whole  city  held  for  their  guests,  and  the  efforts  of  every 
citizen  to  encourage  the  visitors  to  have  the  kindliest  feelings  towards 
Frisco. 

Never  did  imagination  in  its  most  fanciful  flights  through  fairy- 
land realize  such  grandeur  and  brilliancy  of  illumination  as  the 
streets  of  San  Francisco  presented  on  this  night.  It  appeared  as  if 
every  electric  light  bulb  in  creation,  of  every  conceivable  hue,  had  been 
pressed  into  service  in  the  decorations.  Not  only  was  the  city  of 
San  Francisco  extravagantly  liberal  in  adding  its  share  to  the  gen- 
eral glory,  but  the  state  of  California,  through  the  Harbor  Commis- 
sioners, contributed  generously  in  decorating  the  Ferry  Building  in 
a  sumptuous  manner,  while  "Uncle  Sam"  himself  could  not  be  de- 
nied the  privilege  of  joining  in  the  festivities.  Out  in  the  harbor  were  a 
number  of  warships,  all  strung  with  electric  lights,  while  the  pene- 
trating white  beams  of  their  searchlights  crossed  and  re-crossed 
the  sky. 

Could  the  padres  of  old  have  stepped  from  the  Ferry  at  the 
foot  of  Market  street  on  this  Saturday  night,  after  the  current  had 
electrified  the  myriads  of  lights  on  the  broad  thoroughfare,  they 
would  have  become  wondrously  amazed  at  the  glory  of  their  beloved 
city.  Strangers  arriving  in  San  Francisco  from  across  the  bay  im- 
agined that  the  city  was  aflame ;  for  the  illumination  cast  a  glow 
upon  the  sky  as  if  caused  by  a  great  conflagration. 

Thousands  of  necklaces  of  diamonds  glistened  in  the  business 
sections  of  the  city.  Lights  of  every  color,  grouped  in  degree 
emblems  and  other  designs  crossed  and  re-crossed  each  other  in 
many  a  sparkling  line  and  curve.  Colonnades,  columns,  buildings, 
and  designs,  all  alight  with  glowing  blubs,  was  the  gorgeous  sight 
that  lent  the  carnival  spirit  to  the  throngs  that  passed  under  them. 
The  brilliant  display  stretched  from  the  Ferry  building  at  Market 
street  to  Tenth  street,  and  included  one  great  loop  that  reached  out 
to  take  in  Union  Square.  Besides  this,  there  were  innumerable 
illuminations  over  the  many  miles  of  streets  leading  from  the  main 
thoroughfare,  that  added  their  share  to  the  general  glory. 

The  Harbor  Commissioners  had  every  light  in  the  Ferry  build- 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        147 

ing  in  operation,  and  the  great  Nave  with  its  shower  of  lights 
helped  dazzle  the  spectators.  The  building  was  outlined  in  fairy 
tracery  against  the  sky,  and  directly  under  the  large  clock  on  the 
building  shone  a  twenty-foot  emblem  in  its  appropriate  colors.  At 
Steuart  and  Market  streets  was  the  beginning  of  a  lane  of  lights  that 
stretched  out  for  two  miles  in  relentless  brilliancy.  The  lane  passed 
through  a  magnificent  colonnade  of  double  columns,  patterned  after 
Corinthian  architecture.  On  each  side  of  the  street  and  suspended 
between  the  columns  were  innumerable  signs  which  shone  out 
"welcome,"  while  every  conceivable  Masonic  emblem  was  repre- 
sented in  color  and  light. 

At  Post  and  New  Montgomery  streets  the  Masonic  Temple  was 
ablaze  with  lights  and  every  insignia  of  the  order  hung  in  illumina- 
tion from  the  building.  The  Union  Trust  building  opposite  was 
outlined  and  strung  with  myriads  of  lights,  while  public  and  office 
buildings  on  every  side  joined  in  creating  further  brilliancy. 

The  "Court  of  Honor,"  at  the  intersection  of  Market,  Kearney, 
Geary  and  Third  streets,  over  which  much  skill  and  care  had  been 
expended,  proved  to  be  the  grandest  display  that  San  Francisco  had 
ever  known.  From  stout  cables  stretching  from  high  buildings  on 
each  side  of  Market  street  was  suspended  a  glittering  bell-shaped 
mass  of  electric  lights  with  a  rim  40  feet  in  diameter,  with  strings 
tapering  to  the  top  lights,  while  in  the  center  of  the  web,  blazing 
like  jewels,  hung  the  signs  of  the  order.  A  huge  cross  and  crown 
and  the  motto,  "In  Hoc  Signo  Vinces,"  all  thickly  incrusted  with 
lights,  shone  from  within  this  sunburst  of  electric  jewels.  At  its 
outer  edge,  suspended  from  a  huge  ring  of  light  which  required  con- 
siderable thought  and  ingenuity  to  devise,  were  suspended  at  inter- 
vals every  emblem  and  degree  insignia,  all  richly  illuminated  in  true 
color.  The  nearby  buildings,  including  the  Palace  Hotel  and  "Call" 
building,  were  outlined  with  lights  and  hung  with  mottoes  and 
designs.  The  thousands  of  lights  concentrated  in  this  court  made 
that  part  of  Market  street  as  light,  if  not  lighter,  than  day. 

Both  sides  of  Geary  street  were  illuminated  with  arcs  as  far  as 
Hotel  Francis,  which  was  also  brilliantly  illuminated  and  decorated. 
Union  Square  was  surrounded  by  white  masts  that  supported  girdles 
of  light,  while  connecting  the  masts  were  strings  of  lights  and  Japanese 
lanterns,  with  clusters  of  electric  bulbs  within. 

On  Market  street,  beyond  the  "Court  of  Honor,"  the  canopy 
of  light  continued  to  the  great  "Colonnade"  that  extended  from  Fifth 
to  Sixth  street.  The  approach  to  both  sides  of  the  "Colonnade"  led 
between  Corinthian  columns  twined  with  strings  of  frosted  lights, 
while  in  the  center  stood  a  three-column  "Triumphal  Arch,"  from 


148        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

which  was  suspended  the  cross  of  the  "Most  Eminent  Grand  Master," 
heavily  embossed  with  lights,  and,  together  with  the  loops  of  lights 
which  strung  from  curb  to  curb,  attracted  crowds  to  the  "Colonnade." 

The  City  Hall  was  a  feature  of  illumination;  it  was  gorgeously 
decorated.  The  main  building  was  outlined  and  figured  in  light, 
while  the  dome  was  ablaze. 

The  uptown  illumination  was  particularly  beautiful  at  Mechanic's 
Pavilion,  which  was  liberally  decorated  with  light  in  all  manner  of 
designs.  Across  Larkin  street  blazed  the  sign  "Headquarters  Cal- 
ifornia Commanderies."  Within  the  Pavilion  the  illuminations  were 
more  compact  but  equally  as  brilliant  and  elaborate.  The  various 
headquarters  of  the  different  Commanderies  of  the  state  were 
marked  by  novel  ideas  in  light  arrangement,  while  in  the  banquet 
hall,  in  Hayes  street,  were  lights  and  Chinese  lanterns  entwined 
among  the  foliage  and  flowers,  making  a  fairy  representation  of  a 
Hong  Kong  teagarden.  In  the  upper  balcony  was  a  representation 
of  Sierra  scenery,  and  among  the  forest  of  evergreen  were  strung 
myriads  of  lights  and  scores  of  designs. 

Some  idea  of  the  magnitude  of  the  illumination  can  be  gleaned 
when  it  is  known  that  the  lowest  competitive  bid  for  the  lighting 
plant  was  $53,000;  the  cost  for  current  $25,000;  while  150,000 
electric  lights  and  10,000  Chinese  and  Japanese  lanterns  of  every 
color  and  size  were  in  use.  In  the  "Court  of  Honor"  alone  20,000 
incandescent  lights  were  in  service,  while  7,500  were  aglow  in  the 
"Colonnade."  These  figures  refer  only  to  the  public  demonstration, 
while  the  electric  displays  and  decorations  made  by  individuals, 
business  houses,  store-keepers,  hotels,  office  buildings  and  other 
private  concerns  were  beyond  conjecture. 

All  this  grandeur,  and  the  prevailing  good  cheer  of  the  merry 
crowds  that  thronged  the  streets  in  their  gala  attire,  made  that  first 
night  in  Frisco  a  stirring  and  memorable  one.  We  cannot  recall 
half  the  places  we  visited  or  what  we  particularly  saw;  we  had  no 
disposition  to  examine  carefully  into  anything — we  could  only  glance 
and  go — to  move  and  keep  moving.  The  spirit  of  the  Conclave  was 
upon  us  while  the  music,  brilliancy  and  glory  of  it  all  intoxicated  the 
senses.  Finally,  at  a  late  hour,  we  sought  rest  in  one  of  the  great 
casinos.  Hundreds  came  and  went  and  dined  in  this  gilded  palace,  al- 
though it  would  have  been  difficult  to  make  an  accurate  count  of 
the  number  present  at  any  one  time,  because  of  the  mirrored  walls, 
which  stretched  the  assemblage  out  into  countless  numbers.  Young 
and  old  alike,  all  richly  attired,  sat  in  couples  and  groups  about  in- 
numerable tables  eating  of  the  good  things  of  earth  and  engaged 
in  a  din  of  conversation  that  dazed  the  senses.  Gathered  about 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        149 

on  a  balcony  were  others  similarly  engaged,  while  in  one  corner, 
hidden  by  banks  of  ferns,  an  immense  orchestra  made  frantic  efforts 
to  be  heard  above  the  din  of  laughter  and  clatter. 

As  a  final  climax,  and  to  close  the  first  day  in  Frisco  in  all  its 
cheerfulness,  we  sought  our  rooms  in  the  hotel  and  climbed  into  our 
sumptuous  (?)  beds — everything  gradually  and  surely  forcing  upon 
us  the  coveted  consciousness  that  at  last — beyond  any  question — we 
were  really  in  San  Francisco.  We  were  forgetful  of  all  else,  and 
came  to  a  full  realization  of  the  accomplishment  of  our  mission  in 
all  its  enchanting  delightfulness. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

S  the  glorious  sun  rose  out  of  the  eastern  horizon  and  spread 
its  resistless  rays  upon  this  beautiful  western  city  on   Sun- 
day, September  4,  it  disclosed  a  community  of  splendor.     The 
nodding    plumes    and    doffing    of    caps    and    hats    on    every 
thoroughfare  at  an  early  hour,  told  the  story. 

And  there  was  much  to  induce  early  rising.  The  affection  of 
brotherhood  was  paramount  in  every  heart,  and  the  fact  of  the  real- 
ization of  family  reunion  of  brethren  from  every  state  and  clime  was 
in  every  mind.  To  greet  and  be  greeted,  to  meet  and  be  met,  to 
shake  a  brother's  hand  and  have  a  brother  shake  one's  own  hand, 
were  some  of  the  incentives  which  overcame  every  encouragement 
toward  inactivity,  while  the  program  of  the  day  was  one  that  ap- 
pealed to  both  the  eye  and  mind. 

Special  services  were  to  be  conducted  in  churches  of  many  de- 
nominations, morning,  afternoon  and  evening.  Probably  the  most 
inspiring  religious  service  of  the  Conclave,  and  which  touched  the 
heart  and  fired  the  patriotism  of  everyone  who  was  fortunate  enough 
to  attend,  was  the  grand  memorial  sacred  concert,  which  the  program 
announced  would  be  held  in  Mechanic's  Pavilion  in  the  evening, 
under  the  auspices  of  California  Commandery  No.  1,  in  honor  of  the 
late  Sir  Knight  William  McKinley,  the  martyred  President  of  the 
United  States. 

Incoming  trains  were  still  bringing  thousands  of  Sir  Knights 
from  all  sections  of  the  country  into  the  Conclave  city.  The  escort- 


150        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

ing  committees  were  attending  to  their  functions  from  sunrise  until 
sunrise. 

The  religious  services  drew  multitudes,  of  which  many  could 
not  be  accommodated.  Thousands  were  turned  away.  The  dis- 
appointed ones  and  others  who  knew  full  well  the  inability  of  the 
monster  Mechanic's  Pavilion  to  shelter  all  who  would  seek  ad- 
mittance, spent  the  day  in  sight-seeing  in  a  quiet  way. 

The  Grand  Encampment  of  the  United  States  attended  a  most 
impressive  service  in  the  morning,  in  the  First  Congregational 
Church.  They  were  escorted  to  and  from  the  church  by  Golden 
Gate  Commandery  No.  16.  The  doors  of  the  edifice  had  been  opened 
long  before  the  hour  set  for  the  beginning  of  the  services,  and  all 
space  not  reserved  for  the  Grand  Encampment  and  their  escort  had 
long  been  filled  when  the  two  columns  of  Knights,  with  white-lined 
capes  thrown  back,  and  white-plumed  chapeaux  held  over  the  right 
shoulder,  marched  into  the  building  through  the  rear  doors  under 
escort  of  the  handsomely  attired  Golden  Gate  Commandery  No.  16. 

At  the  pulpit  were  V.  E.  Sir  Daniel  C.  Roberts,  D.  D.,  Grand 
Prelate  of  the  Grand  Encampment  of  Knights  Templar  U.  S.  A. ;  Sir 
Knight  William  H.  Jordan,  Prelate  of  Golden  Gate  Commandery  No. 
16,  and  the  Rev.  George  C.  Adams,  D.  D.,  pastor  of  the  church,  all 
of  whom  rose  and  stood  in  an  attitude  of  greeting  and  welcome  until 
the  guests  of  honor  and  their  escort  were  seated. 

The  church  was  elaborately  decorated  in  floral  designs  emblem- 
atic of  the  order  represented,  a  huge  electric  cross  of  red  flaming 
above  the  organ  loft.  The  services  were  beautiful  and  impressive 
in  song,  lesson  and  discourse,  and  were  appreciated  by  an  audience 
which  packed  the  galleries  and  filled  every  seat  left  vacant  in  the 
body  of  the  house  after  the  Sir  Knights  were  accommodated. 

The  responsive  reading  and  the  Litany  of  the  order  weie  con- 
ducted by  Prelate  Sir  Knight  William  H.  Jordan,  the  invocations 
were  by  the  pastor  and  the  sermon  was  preached  by  V.  E.  Sir  Daniel 
C.  Roberts,  D.  D. 

Seldom  has  a  more  beautiful  ceremony  been  witnessed  than  that 
which  was  held  in  Mechanic's  Pavilion  in  the  afternoon.  The  main 
floor  was  converted  into  a  California  forest  of  tall  redwood  trees, 
whose  high  tops  and  heads  reached  far  above  the  balconies,  and 
whose  boughs  formed  an  indescribably  beautiful  canopy  overhead. 
The  galleries  were  covered  with  green  in  such  manner  as  to  form 
a  continuation  of  the  trees. 

Ascending  the  stairway  to  the  gallery  the  visitors  encountered 
a  group  of  three  figures,  representing  two  nymphs  tempting  Pan  to 
drink  from  a  lily  which  was  held  just  beyond  his  reach,  while  on 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        151 

the  opposite  side  of  the  gallery  hung  the  original  copy  of  Earl  Cum- 
mings'  "At  Play." 

In  the  annex  the  California  Commanderies  had  their  head- 
quarters and  dispensed  refreshments  in  the  Chinese  teagarden, 
fitted  up  in  keeping  with  the  original  article,  as  though  transplanted 
from  the  Celestial  empire.  The  art  gallery  was  probably  the  finest 
piece  of  decorative  work  ever  done  beneath  that  roof.  The  ceilings 
and  alcoves  were  tinted  in  cream  and  green.  The  walls  and  floors 
of  two  sections  were  covered  with  green  burlap  and  two  other  sec- 
tions were  covered  with  burlap  in  the  natural  color.  More  than 
2000  yards  of  burlap  were  required  in  this  work. 

Seventy-two  beautiful  colonnades,  forming  a  magnificent  court, 
had  been  placed  in  sections  2  and  3  of  the  gallery.  Each  colonnade 
was  mounted  with  a  large  eagle  about  thirty-six  inches  high,  and  a 
fine  silken  flag.  Between  sections,  beautiful  arbors  composed  of 
colonnades  and  arranged  so  as  to  represent  the  California  missions, 
made  a  beautiful  effect.  The  arbors  contained  a  number  of  red 
lanterns  from  which  electric  bulbs  cast  a  soft  light.  The  reception 
room  at  one  end  of  the  building  was  fitted  in  Chinese  fashion,  the 
fittings  consisting  of  the  choicest  furnishings  obtainable  in  China- 
town. A  minature  forest  had  been  planted  at  the  west  end  of  the 
upper  gallery  for  Santa  Rosa  Commandery.  The  seven  Command- 
eries which  jointly  occupied  one  section  of  the  Pavilion  had  taverns 
built  of  rough  timber,  typical  of  the  early  days  of  California. 

It  was  amidst  these  beautiful  surroundings  that  the  afternoon 
and  evening  services  were  held.  Long  before  the  hour  set  for  the 
afternoon  services,  a  continued  flow  of  humanity  began  to  pour  into 
the  building.  At  the  first  notes  of  the  trumpet  the  Sir  Knights  fell 
into  line  behind  a  screen  of  evergreen  at  the  front  of  the  pavilion 
and  as  the  band  played  "Stand  Up,  Stand  Up  for  Jesus,"  they 
marched  slowly  up  the  center  isle.  Two  by  two  they  came,  and 
as  the  isle  filled  with  marching  men  robed  in  baldric  and  snowy 
plumes,  a  more  picturesque  sight  could  not  be  imagined.  On  they 
came,  until  the  floor  and  platform  was  a  moving  mass  of  velvet 
folds,  kindly  faces  and  nodding  plumes. 

As  the  Sir  Knights  reached  the  platform  and  stood  in  their  places, 
there  was  a  wave  of  the  Commander's  hand  and  instantly  all  heads 
were  uncovered.  Then,  after  the  singing  of  the  last  verses  of  the  pro- 
cessional, all  took  their  seats.  An  elaborate  musical  program  was 
carried  out  and  fitting  prayers  offered,  after  which  the  Rev.  Dr. 
Frederick  W.  Clampett,  rector  of  Trinity  Church,  delivered  an  im- 
pressive sermon,  in  which  he  told  of  the  sterling  Christianity  advo- 
cated by  Templarhood,  the  solemnity  of  their  service,  and  concluded 


152        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

by  paying  fitting  tribute  to  late  President  McKinley,  and  holding 
him  and  his  character  before  his  hearers  as  an  example  of  manhood 
and  all  the  qualities  which  tend  to  make  beauty  of  character. 

Nor  was  the  evening  service  less  impressive.  Ablaze  with  a 
thousand  lights,  splendid  with  a  myriad  of  colored  incandescent 
bulbs  patterned  in  symbols  of  Free  Masonry,  and  thronged  with 
an  audience  of  15,000  people,  each  one  of  whom  sat  with  bowed  head 
in  respect  to  the  memory  of  Sir  Knight  William  McKinley,  who  three 
years  before  had  gone  to  join  the  Grand  Commandery  on  high,  was 
the  solemn  picture  that  presented  itself.  So  eager  was  the  multitude 
to  take  opportunity  in  respecting  the  former  Sir  Knight — president, 
hero,  statesman  and  humanitarian — that  fully  5000  were  turned  away 
from  the  doors  for  lack  of  seating  capacity.  The  immense  stage 
reserved  for  the  Sir  Knights  and  their  families  and  the  musicians, 
was  decorated  with  flowers  and  banks  of  evergreen.  On  all  sides 
the  floral  effects  added  to  the  beauty  of  the  interior.  Large  Amer- 
ican flags  were  draped  at  one  end  of  the  hall,  while  bunting  and  gar- 
lands of  blossoms  swung  out  from  the  balconies. 

The  program  opened  with  a  measured  dirge,  followed  by  the 
overture  from  "Tannhauser."  With  the  closing  strains  the  drill 
corps  of  the  California  Commandery  entered  the  hall,  accompanied 
by  the  vested  choir  of  Trinity  Church.  Lights  were  dimmed,  and  as 
the  group  formed  in  picturesque  tableaux  the  singers  began  the 
strains  of  the  beautiful  melody —  (a)  "Lead,  Kindly  Light."  The 
association  of  the  hymn  with  the  martyred  President  was  never 
more  keenly  realized  and  more  than  one  eye  grew  dim  as  the  words 
of  the  sacred  song  fell  on  the  hushed  assembly,  (b)  "The  Lord's 
Prayer"  (music  by  John  Hendon  Pratt),  (c)  "Onward,  Christian 
Soldiers,"  "Sanctus"  from  mass  "Sollenelle"  (Gounod)  ;  following 
a  selection  by  the  orchestra,  Sir  Knight  Samuel  M.  Shortridge  de- 
livered an  oration,  and  after  him  came  a  rendition  of  "Lead  Thou 
Me  On,"  by  the  Templar  Choir  of  the  California  Commandery;  par- 
aphrase on  "Nearer,  My  God,  to  Thee ,"  (Reeves)  ;  soprano  solo, 
"The  Holy  City,"  Miss  Millie  Flynn;  transcription  on  Schubert's 
"Serenade"  (Lizst)  ;  grand  chorus  of  500  voices,  under  direction  of 
Professor  John  W.  McKenzie— (a)  "The  Lost  Chord"  (Sullivan),  (b) 
"Rock  of  Ages"  (the  audience  arose  and  joined  in  singing  the  last 
number)  ;  "Angelus"  from  "Suite  Scenes  Pittoresque"  (Massenet)  ; 
"The  Star-Spangled  Banner,"  Miss  Millie  Flynn ;  "Tenting  To- 
Night,"  rendered  by  the  Temple  Choir  in  costume  and  the  singing 
of  "America,"  in  unison,  terminated  the  impressive  services. 


If  there  is  one  spot  in  San  Francisco  of  which  every  Californian 
is  proud,  and  justly  so,  it  is  the  Golden  Gate  Park,  covering  an  ex- 
panse of  over  1,000  acres.  Its  beauty  is  due,  first  to  climatic  con- 
ditions, second  to  its  topography.  Beautiful  shubbery,  abundant 
bloom,  varied  landscapes  and  artistic  statuary  are  here.  Wide 
stretchea  of  grassy  plain  are  succeeded  by  beautiful  eminences,  at  the 
foot  of  which  are  on  one  hand  placid  lakes,  on  the  other  the  glistening 
waves  of  the  Pacific.  It  is  rife  with  beautiful  buildings  and  walks, 
while  dense  foliage  and  flowers  bloom  the  year  round.  As  a  special 
compliment  to  the  Conclave  visitors,  a  score  of  floral  designs,  worked 
into  Masonic  emblems,  were  in  view  throughout  the  park.  Among 
points  of  interest  within  its  bounds  are  the  Conservatory,  Aviary, 
Museum,  Egyptian  Art  Building,  Buffalo  Paddock,  Japanese  Garden, 
Stowe  Lake,  Huntington  Falls,  Strawberry  Hill,  Lake  Alvord,  Chil- 
dren's House  and  Playground,  Commissioner's  Lodge,  many  beautiful 
statues,  a  well  stocked  zoo  and  a  bandstand  where  45  pieces  play  each 
Sunday  and  holidays.  Thirty-five  years  ago  the  site  was  a  series  of 
desolate  sand  dunes,  barren  of  vegetation.  To-day,  its  beauties  fas- 
cinate and  hold  the  visitor  spellbound. 

On  the  sunset  edge  and  in  proximity  to  the  Golden  Gate 
Park,  is  the  Cliff  House.  Situated  upon  a  rocky  bluff  overlooking 
the  Pacific  Ocean  and  a  precipitous  beach,  the  Cliff  House  affords 
a  sight  that  cannot  be  erased  from  memory.  A  portion  of  the  build- 
ing rises  high  above  the  ocean  and  one  can  sit  and  watch  the  breakers 
dash  wildly  against  the  cliffs  as  they  roll  in  from  shores  afar. 

Out  in  the  ocean,  a  cable's  length  from  shore,  are  the  celebrated 
Seal  Rocks.  Immense  wave-washed  monuments  that  rise  high  out 
of  the  water,  they  afford  a  resting  place  for  a  colony  of  huge  seals 
that  warm  themselves  in  the  kindly  sunshine  after  a  frolic  in  the 
salt  sea.  Their  movements  are  interesting,  their  barking  being  dis- 
tinctly heard  above  the  roar  of  the  surf,  while  countless  numbers  of 
sea  gulls  and  other  waterfowl  circle  above  and  perch  upon  the  rocks 
in  agreeable  companionship  with  the  seals. 

To  the  right  of  the  Cliff  House  are  the  famous  Sutro  Baths,  said 
to  be  the  largest  in  the  world.  They  are  500  feet  long  and  254  feet 
wide  and  hold  1,804,962  gallons  of  water  which  comes  from  the  sea, 
and  towering  above  them  is  the  magnificent  sky-battlement  known  as 
Sutro  Heights — a  private  property  open  to  the  public  and  embellished 
by  landscape  gardens  and  statuary.  From  this  place  a  majestic  pano- 
rama of  the  shore  is  afforded  for  many  miles. 

It  was  these  and  many  other  beauty  spots  that  the  Sir  Knights 
and  their  ladies  visited  during  that  Sunday  afternoon,  but  go  where 
they  might,  the  glittering  uniforms,  elaborate  decorations  and  general 


154        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

brilliancy  encouraged  the  predominating  feeling  of  good  cheer,  buoy- 
ancy, laughter  and  merriment.  And  what  endless  opportunity  for 
sight-seeing  the  City  of  the  Golden  Gate  affords !  What  beauty  spots 
created  both  by  Nature  and  man  abound  in  all  directions!  How 
liberally  has  the  Maker  showered  His  blessings  upon  this  exit  of 
America.  But  of  this,  more  anon. 

The  evening  was  spent  in  drives,  trolley  rides,  walks  and  visits 
to  the  many  Commandery  headquarters  which  were  extremely  liberal 
in  their  hospitality.  Other  diversions  as  were  consistent  with  the 
day  were  indulged  in,  although  a  great  number  of  the  visitors  at- 
tended the  McKinley  Memorial  Service. 

Returning  to  our  headquarters  that  night,  there  was  a  general 
stampede  for  writing  material  and  a  concentrated  effort  made  to 
inform  "the  folks  at  home"  of  our  conditions  mentally  and  physically. 
Some  began  to  describe  the  beauties  of  the  Conclave,  but  were  igno- 
minously  defeated  because  of  the  limited  time  that  was  allotted  for 
letter-writing,  while  others,  finding  themselves  deluged  in  an  effort 
to  deal  even  in  generalities,  restricted  themselves  to  discussing  the 
weather  and  their  health. 

It  was  also  at  this  time  that  the  historians  of  the  pilgrimage 
retreated  in  wild  confusion.  At  the  very  outset  from  Allegheny  many 
of  the  pilgrims  had  supplied  themselves  with  diaries  and  liberal  am- 
munition in  the  shape  of  pens  and  pencils  with  which  to  chronicle  any 
and  all  events  that  might  occur  on  the  transcontinental  tour. 

For  a  time  ambition  kept  apace  of  events.  Then  gradually,  one 
by  one,  the  historians  began  to  fall  by  the  wayside,  while  others 
formed  a  rear  guard  by  keeping  three  or  four  days  behind  current 
events.  However,  with  the  activity,  boundless  interest  and  fellow- 
ship of  the  Conclave,  and  the  myriads  of  rich  pleasures  at  hand,  the 
regiment  of  historians  was  completely  annihilated.  Some  had  not 
yet  climbed  Pike's  Peak  when  they  reached  Frisco  (according  to 
their  diaries)  while  others  were  just  noting  the  fact  that  we  had 
visited  the  Mormon  Temple  in  Salt  Lake  City. 

One  of  these  diaries,  which  started  out  with  a  noble  purpose 
and  met  with  an  abrupt  conclusion,  was  discovered  in  one  of  the 
wastebaskets  of  our  San  Francisco  hotel.  It  was  prefaced  with  a 
most  worthy  resolution  and  concluded  with  a  brief  but  interesting 
tale,  as  follows: 

"It  is  my  purpose  to  chronicle  in  detail,  each  evening,  the  events 
of  the  day  as  they  occur  to  my  mind,  so  that  in  a  few  years  they 
may  be  read  and  enjoyed  by  my  family.  I  shall  be  punctual  and  try 
to  deal  truthfully  with  all  matters  that  I  may  refer  to  in  these  pages, 
whether  they  be  of  national  or  personal  interest,  and  I  shall  seek  to 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        155 

treat  all  subjects  and  conditions  with  sincere  impartiality,  regardless 
of  personal  beliefs  or  opinions. 

"August  23 — Ate  lunch  and  smoked  a  cigar  and — 
"Sept.  1 — The  climate  is  fine  and  we  had  little  rain,  but  the  mount- 
ain air — " 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

O'NDAY  morning  brought  with  it  a  startling  revelation.  The 
population  at  the  hotel  had  become  wonderfully  increased. 
Every  room  was  full  of  life — flea  life.  Where  they  came  from 
and  how  they  arrived,  we  never  paused  to  ask,  although  some 
expressed  the  belief  that  they  swam  over  the  bay,  for  they  were  ex- 
cellent sailors,  considering  how  tirelessly  they  sailed  through  the  air. 
We  had  been  told  the  previous  night  that  there  was  not  a  SINGLE 
flea  in  Frisco.  This  was  eminently  true — they  were  all  married  and 
had  large  families. 

Following  up  our  original  discovery  that  the  flea  can  thrive  on 
San  Francisco  air,  we  continued  our  scientific  research  and  were 
rewarded  by  learning  that  the  flea  is  not  a  wild  animal.  It  is  very 
tame  and  showed  no  inclination  to  avoid  human  society.  In  fact,  Sir 
Reel  had  a  flock  so  well  trained  that  they  would  eat  out  of  his  hand, 
kiss  him  on  the  neck,  whisper  in  his  ear,  and  sit  on  his  nose,  without 
command.  We  further  learned  that  there  was  no  peril  in  hunting 
them,  while  their  natural  affection  for  human  society  attracts  them 
to  you,  if  one  has  but  a  little  patience. 

They  kept  up  a  continuous  buzzing  strain  which  to  us  sounded 
as  "Welcome  z — z — z  Sir  z — z — z  Knights  z — z — z  welcome."  While 
they  were  so  sociable  that  they  crawled  all  over  us,  inside  of  our 
clothes  and  out,  we  were  nevertheless  hunting  them  day  and  night. 
We  soon  learned  that  hunting  them  with  a  gun  was  inadvisable,  and 
after  much  experimenting,  discovered  that  the  easiest  way  to  lose 
their  company  was  to  allow  them  to  hold  public  meetings  on  your 
face  and  then,  in  an  outburst  of  sorrow,  to  drown  them  with  your 
tears. 

However,  with  all  their  faults,  Sir  Otto  is  indebted  to  the  fleas 
of  Frisco  for  the  greatest  physical  culture  exercise  he  ever  enjoyed. 
Otto  had  been  ailing  somewhat  since  entering  the  Yellowstone  Park, 
and  really  needed  the  exercise  which  was  forced  upon  him. 


15fi        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

Sir  Otto  had  been  wearing  a  sweater  which  he  brought  from  the 
east,  and  on  this  particular  morning  had  it  thrown  over  a  chair  for 
ventilation.  The  fleas  appointed  a  board  of  inquiry,  numbering  about 
250,  to  inspect  the  interior  of  the  sweater,  but  carelessly  neglected 
to  notify  Otto  of  the  fact.  Without  the  slightest  malice  towards  the 
fleas  he  hurriedly  donned  the  garment  and  was  not  conscious  of  the 
bosom  companions  he  had  made  until  it  was  snugly  fitted.  Then  the 
terrible  truth  dawned  upon  him !  As  the  fleas,  250  strong,  attempted 
to  bite  their  way  out,  they  bit  in  the  wrong  direction.  Otto  tugged 
violently  at  the  sweater  in  a  frantic  effort  to  release  the  poor  im- 
prisoned fleas.  The  more  he  pulled  and  tugged,  the  tighter  the 
sweater,  and  the  more  excited  both  he  and  fleas  became.  During  his 
struggles  he  executed  a  new  method  of  calisthenics  that  would  have 
been  a  profitable  revelation  to  the  greatest  physical  culture  instructor 
extant.  Finally,  with  the  brave  assistance  of  several  pilgrims,  the 
sweater  was  removed  and  the  fleas  released,  but  Otto  bore  the  teeth 
marks  of  the  fleas  in  such  great  numbers  that  it  was  necessary  to  let 
contracts  for  talcum  powder  by  the  pound. 

The  Conclave  program  for  the  day  was  one  that  predicted  bound- 
less entertainment.  Among  events  scheduled  were:  Receiving  the 
officers  of  the  Great  Priory  of  England  and  Wales  and  the  depend- 
encies of  the  British  crown;  reception  by  Golden  Gate  Commandery 
No.  16,  in  Golden  Gate  Hall,  afternoon  and  evening;  ladies'  reception 
at  headquarters  of  California  Commandery  No.  1,  in  Mechanics' 
Pavilion  in  the  afternoon. 

Monday,  September  5,  was  a  legal  holiday  in  California,  known 
as  Labor  Day.  The  celebration  consisted  of  a  parade  in  the  morn- 
ing; reunion  of  labor  organizations,  exercises  afternoon  and  evening, 
celebrations  of  San  Francisco  Labor  Council  and  fireworks  at  nignt. 

The  Grand  Commandery  of  Pennsylvania  and  the  Sir  Knights 
of  Pennsylvania  tendered  a  reception  to  all  Knights  Templar  and 
their  ladies  in  the  Marble  and  Maple  rooms  of  the  Palace  Hotel ;  ex- 
hibition drill  and  band  concert  by  Malta  Commandery  No.  21  Drill 
Corps,  Binghamton,  N.  Y.,  at  night;  reception  in  the  Palace  Hotel, 
tinder  the  auspices  of  the  ladies'  committee ;  open-air  concert  in  Union 
Square;  reception  by  Oakland  Commandery  No.  11,  at  Native  Sons' 
Hall;  general  reception  by  California  Commandery  No.  1,  and  other 
Commanderies,  in  Mechanics'  Pavilion ;  performance  by  Chinese  actors 
in  Grand  Opera  House  and  numerous  other  events  of  equal  interest. 

The  reception  tendered  the  Earl  of  Euston  (personal  representa- 
tive of  King  Edward)  and  the  delegation  representing  the  Grand  Priory 
of  England  and  Wales,  was  most  impressive.  They  were  met  by  a 
full  Templar  escort  consisting  of  four  troops  mounted,  two  com- 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        1ST 

panics  on  foot  and  a  band  of  40  pieces  with  mounted  buglers.  Troops 
A  and  B  of  the  mounted  escort  occupied  the  right  of  the  line  and 
were  followed  by  the  band  and  two  foot  escorts,  then  the  distinguished 
visitors  in  carriages,  with  the  two  companies  from  California  Com- 
mandery  bringing  up  in  the  rear  as  the  guard  of  honor. 

As  the  Earl  emerged  from  the  depot  on  the  way  to  his  carriage, 
there  was  a  fanfare  from  the  buglers  while  the  band  struck  up  and 
kept  playing  until  all  the  visitors  were  seated  in  their  carriages. 
The  escorts,  both  mounted  and  afoot,  presented  arms  and  remained 
at  present  until  the  last  carriage  had  passed  the  line  of  escort,  after 
which  they  swung  into  line  and  accompanied  the  distinguished  guests 
to  the  Palace  Hotel. 

Here  they  formed  a  double  line  at  the  main  entrance  on  New 
Montgomery  street,  while  the  foot  escort  formed  a  line  reaching 
across  the  street  from  the  entrance.  The  band  was  stationed  at  the 
corner  of  New  Montgomery  and  Market  streets,  and,  as  the  Earl 
and  his  party  alighted  from  their  carriages,  they  passed  through  a 
hollow  square  of  presented  swords  to  the  music  of  the  band,  making 
a  most  imposing  and  beautiful  picture. 

The  distinguished  visitors  comprising  the  English  delegation 
were :  The  Right  Honorable,  the  Earl  of  Euston,  the  Most  Eminent 
and  Supreme  Grand  Master  of  the  Great  Priory  of  England  and 
Wales;  Sir  Charles  F.  Matier,  Great  Vice-Chancellor  of  the  Great 
Priory  of  England  and  Wales ;  Sir  Thomas  Eraser,  Sir  A.  J.  Thomas, 
Rev.  C.  E.  L.  Wright,  Sir  T.  P.  Dorman  and  Abraham  Woodiwiss, 
the  delegation  representing  the  English  Great  Cross  Templars,  and 
the  personal  representatives  of  King  Edward  VII.  of  England,  as  well 
as  the  delegation  representing  the  Great  Priory  of  Canada  and  the 
British  Crown  dependencies. 

Every  state,  territory,  and  section  of  the  continent  was  represent- 
ed at  the  Conclave  by  their  Commanderies,  and  the  number  of  foreign 
representatives  was  exceptionally  large.  At  this  time  the  following 
Commanderies  had  arrived : 

UNITED  STATES  OF  AMERICA— Grand  Encampment,  M. 
E.  Grand  Master  Henry  Bates  Stoddard. 

ALABAMA — Grand  Commandery.  Cyrene  Commandery  No.  10, 
Birmingham,  E.  Sir  John  H.  Robinson,  Commander. 

ARIZONA— Grand  Commandery. 

ARKANSAS— Grand  Commandery,  R.  E.  Sir  T.  H.  Jones. 
Arkansas  Delegation,  Little  Rock. 

CALIFORNIA— Grand  Commandery,  R.  E.  Sir  W.  Frank  Pierce, 
Grand  Commander.  California  Commandery  No.  1,  E.  Sir  Charles 
Mortimer  Plum,  Commander.  Sacramento  Commandery  No.  2,  E. 


158        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

Sir  Edward  Adolph  Weil,  Commander.  Pacific  Commandery  No.  3, 
E.  Sir  Elisha  Tolman  Gould,  Commander.  El  Dorado  Commandery 
No.  4,  E.  Sir  Charles  Albert  Swisler,  Commander.  Oroville  Com- 
mandery No.  5,  E.  Sir  Albert  Eugene  Boynton,  Commander.  Nevada 
Commandery  No.  6,  E.  Sir  Thomas  Ingram,  Commander.  Marys- 
ville  Commandery  No.  7,  E.  Sir  Oscar  Leonidas  Meek,  Commander. 
Stockton  Commandery  No.  8,  E.  Sir  Charles  Willis  Norton,  Com- 
mander. Los  Angeles  Commandery  No.  9,  E.  Sir  John  Amos  Kings- 
ley,  Commander.  San  Jose  Commandery  No.  10,  E.  Sir  William 
Gay  Alexander,  Commander.  Oakland  Commandery  No.  11,  E.  Sir 
William  Henry  Craig,  Commander.  Chico  Commandery  No.  12,  E. 
Sir  Eugene  E.  Canfield,  Commander.  Lassen  Commandery  No.  13, 
E.  Sir  Harry  DeForest  Burroughs,  Commander.  Santa  Rosa  Com- 
mandery No.  14,  E.  Sir  Charles  Clinton  Belden,  Commander.  Golden 
Gate  Commandery  No.  16,  E.  Sir  Philip  D.  Code,  Commander.  Red 
Bluff  Commandery  No.  17,  E.  Sir  Elias  Delevan  Gardner,  Com- 
mander. Ventura  Commandery  No.  18,  E.  Sir  Frederick  William 
Baker,  Commander.  Naval  Commandery  No.  19,  E.  Sir  Alrik  Ham- 
mer, Commander.  Mount  Olivet  Commandery  No.  20,  Petaluma,  E. 
Sir  Dolphus  B.  Fairbanks,  Commander.  Woodland  Commandery 
No.  21,  E.  Sir  John  Reith,  Jr.,  Commander.  Watsonville  Command- 
ery No.  22,  E.  Sir  William  A.  Trafton,  Commander.  Saint  Bernard 
Commandery  No.  23,  E.  Sir  Dwight  Coleman  Schlott,  Commander. 
Colusa  Commandery  No.  24,  E.  Sir  William  Henry  Buster,  Com- 
mander. San  Diego  Commandery  No.  25,  E.  Sir  Charles  Wylie 
Buker,  Commander.  Visalia  Commandery  No.  26,  E.  Sir  James  H. 
McKie,  Commander.  San  Luis  Obispo  Commandery  No.  27,  E.  Sir 
Stephen  Davis  Ballou,  Commander.  Riverside  Commandery  No.  28, 
E.  Sir  Samuel  Adams  White,  Commander.  Fresno  Commandery 
No.  29,  E.  Sir  Edward  Sharp  Valentine,  Commander.  St.  Omer  Com- 
mandery No.  30,  E.  Sir  Clarence  Crosby  Knight,  Commander.  Pasa- 
dena Commandery  No.  31,  E.  Sir  Robert  Henry  Cuthbert,  Com- 
mander. Mt.  Shasta  Commandery  No.  32,  E.  Sir  George  Dexter 
Butler,  Commander.  Ukiah  Commandery  No.  33,  E.  Sir  Howard  B. 
Smith,  Commander.  Napa  Commandery  No.  34,  E.  Sir  Daniel  S. 
Kyser,  Commander.  Eureka  Commandery  No.  35,  E.  Sir  Albert 
Charles  Barker,  Commander.  Santa  Ana  Commandery  No.  36,  E. 
Sir  John  Lewis  Dryer,  Commander.  Southern  California  Command- 
ery No.  37,  E.  Sir  James  Albert  Dole,  Commander.  Vacaville  Com- 
mandery No.  38,  E.  Sir  Robert  Lincoln  Reid,  Commander.  Bakers- 
field  Commandery  No.  39,  E.  Sir  John  Lovell  Carson,  Commander. 
Long  Beach  Commandery  No.  40,  E.  Sir  James  Benjamin  Heartwell, 
Commander. 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        159 

COLORADO— Grand  Commandery,  R.  E.,  Sir  William  J.  Fine, 
Grand  Commander.  Denver-Frisco  K.  T.  1904  Club;  Denver  (com- 
posed of  members  of  various  Colorado  Commanderies)  Sir  Knight 
Fred  Walsen,  President ;  Sir  Richard  K.  Le  Bert,  Secretary.  Pueblo 
Club,  Pueblo. 

CONNECTICUT— Grand  Commandery,  E.  Sir  Eugene  A.  Hall, 
proxy  for  Grand  Commander.  Washington  Commandery  No.  1, 
Hartford,  E.  Sir  W.  G.  Baxter,  Commander.  New  Haven  Com- 
mandery No.  2,  New  Haven,  E.  Sir  Frank  Bishop,  Commander. 
Hamilton  Commandery  No.  5,  Bridgeport,  E.  Sir  Geo.  M.  Baldwin, 
Commander.  Holy  Sepulchre  Commandery  No.  8,  Pawtucket.  New 
Haven  Commandery  California  Club,  Sir  Charles  E.  Rounds,  Adju- 
tant President. 

DISTRICT  OF  COLUMBIA— Grand  Commandery  of  District 
of  Columbia,  R.  E.  Sir  Andrew  W.  Kelley,  Grand  Commander. 
Washington  Club,  Washington,  D.  C. 

FLORIDA — Grand  Commandery  of  Florida,  Right  Eminent  Sir 
Otis  L.  Keene,  Grand  Commander.  Florida  Delegation,  Jacksonville. 

GEORGIA — Grand  Commandery. 

ILLINOIS — Grand  Commandery.  Apollo  Commandery  No.  1, 
Chicago,  E.  Sir  James  Francis  Rowins,  Commander.  Peoria  Com- 
mandery No.  3.  Ottowa  Commandery  No.  10,  Ottowa,  E.  Sir  Henry 
L.  Arnold,  Commander.  Cairo  Commandery  No.  13,  Cairo,  E.  Sir 
Frank  Spencer,  Chairman.  Urbana  Commandery  No.  16,  E.  Sir  H.  T. 
Hubbard,  Commander.  Chicago  Commandery  No.  19,  Chicago,  E. 
Sir  William  S.  Peavey,  Commander.  St.  Barnard  Commandery  No. 
35,  Chicago.  Montjoie  Commandery  No.  53,  Chicago,  E.  Sir  William 
H.  Pool,  Commander.  Lincoln  Park  Commandery  No.  64,  Chicago, 
E.  Sir  John  A.  Eck,  Commander. 

INDIANA — Grand  Commandery.  Rapier  Commandery  No.  1, 
Indianapolis.  Greenfield  Commandery  No.  25,  Greenfield.  Frank- 
fort Commandery  No.  29,  Frankfort,  E.  Sir  C.  A.  Ford,  Commander. 
Kokomo  Commandery  No.  36,  Kokomo.  Washington  Commandery 
No.  33,  Washington.  Crawfordsville  Commandery  No.  39,  Craw- 
fordsville.  Hammond  Commandery  No.  41,  Hammond,  E.  Sir  J.  J. 
Ruff,  Commander. 

IOWA — Grand  Commandery.  Temple  Commandery  No.  4,  Des 
Moines,  E.  Sir  Frank  H.  McArthur,  Commander. 

KANSAS— Grand  Commandery,  R.  E.  Sir  T.  H.  Jones,  Grand 
Commander.  Oswego  Commandery  No.  7,  Oswego.  Kansas  City 
No.  10,  Kansas  City.  Kansas  Delegation,  Kansas  City,  E.  Sir  B.  G. 
Brown  in  command. 


160        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

KENTUCKY — Grand  Commandery.  Louisville  Commandery 
No.  1,  Louisville.  De  Molay  Commandery  No.  12,  Louisville.  Marion 
Commandery  No.  24,  Lebanon. 

LOUISIANA— Grand  Commandery. 

MAINE — Grand  Commandery.  Portland  Commandery  No.  2, 
Portland,  E.  Sir  Woodman  E.  Eaton,  Commander. 

MARYLAND — Grand  Commandery.     Maryland  Delegation. 

MASSACHUSETTS — Grand  Commandery  of  Massachusetts 
and  Rhode  Island.  Boston  Commandery  No.  2,  Boston,  E.  Sir  Rinaldo 
B.  Richardson,  Commander.  .  Worcester  Commandery  No.  5,  Wor- 
cester. De  Molay  Commandery  No.  7,  Boston,  E.  Sir  Oscar  A.  Shep- 
herd, Commander.  Sutton  Commandery  No.  16,  New  Bedford,  P.  C. 
Jacob  C.  Dunham,  in  charge.  Hugh  de  Payens  Commandery  No.  20, 
Melrose,  E.  Sir  Harry  Stevens,  Commander.  St.  Omer  Command- 
ery No.  21,  Boston.  Joseph  Warren  Commandery  No.  26,  Roxbury. 
Trinity  Commandery  No.  32,  Hudson,  E.  Sir  Charles  A.  Bartlett, 
Commander.  Coeur  de  Lion  Commandery  No.  34,  Boston,  E.  Sir 
John  H.  Studley,  Commander.  Olivet  Commandery  No.  36,  Lynn, 
E.  Sir  Amos  T.  Chase,  Commander.  Cambridge  Commandery  No. 
42,  Cambridge,  E.  Sir  R.  Walter  Hilliard,  Commander.  Massachu- 
setts Delegation.  Springfield  Commandery  No.  — ,  Springfield. 

MICHIGAN — Grand  Commandery.  Peninsular  Commandery 
No.  8,  Kalamazoo,  E.  Sir  James  Freaser,  Commander. 

MINNESOTA— Grand  Commandery,  R.  E.  Sir  George  W.  Buck, 
Grand  Commander.  Minnesota  Delegation. 

MISSISSIPPI— Grand  Commandery,  R.  E.  Sir  Frank  Burkett, 
Grand  Commander. 

MISSOURI — Grand  Commandery.  Kansas  City  Commandery 
No.  10,  Kansas  City.  St.  Aldemar  Commandery  No.  18,  St.  Louis. 
Oriental  Commandery  No.  35,  Kansas  City. 

MONTANA — Grand  Commandery.  Montana  Commandery  No. 
3,  Butte. 

NEBRASKA — CJrand  Commandery.  Mount  Calvary  Com- 
mandery No.  1,  Omaha. 

NEVADA — Grand  Commandery.  De  Witt  Clinton  Command- 
ery No.  1,  Virginia  City.  Nevada  Commandery  No.  6,  Nevada  City, 
E.  Sir  Thomas  Ingram,  Commander. 

NEW  HAMPSHIRE— Grand  Commandery,  R.  E.  Sir  Thomas 
M.  Fletcher,  Grand  Commander.  Trinity  Commandery  No.  1,  Man- 
chester, E.  Sir  Elmer  D.  Goodwin,  Commander. 

NEW  JERSEY — Grand  Commandery.    New  Jersey  Delegation. 

NEW  MEXICO— Grand  Commandery. 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        161 

NEW  YORK — Grand  Commandery.  Apollo  Commandery  No. 
15,  Troy.  Malta  Commandery  No.  21,  Binghamton,  E.  Sir  Arthur 
W.  T.  Black,  Commander.  Central  City  Commandery  No.  25,  Syra- 
cuse. 

NORTH  CAROLINA— Grand  Commandery. 

NORTH  DAKOTA— Grand  Commandery. 

OHIO — Grand  Commandery.  Cincinnati  Commandery  No.  3, 
Cincinnati,  E.  Sir  A.  S.  Brown,  Commander.  Reed  Commandery  No. 
6,  Dayton.  Oriental  Commandery  No.  12,  Cleveland,  E.  Sir  R.  D. 
Morgan,  Commander.  Hansellman  Commandery  No.  16,  Cincinnati, 

E.  Sir  William  J.  Graf,  Commander.     Garfield  Commandery  No.  28, 
Washington  Court  House.     Palestine  Commandery  No.  33,  Spring- 
field, E.    Sir  John  B.  McGrew,  Commander.    Marietta  Commandery 
No.  50,  Marietta. 

OREGON — Grand  Commandery.  Oregon  Commandery  No.  1, 
Portland,  E.  Sir  Henry  Roe,  Commander.  Malta  Commandery  No.  4, 
Ashland.  Pendleton  Commandery  No.  7,  Pendleton.  Melita  Com- 
mandery No.  8,  Grants  Pass,  E.  Sir  W.  H.  Hampton,  Commander. 

PENNSYLVANIA— Grand  Commandery.  Pittsburgh  Com- 
mandery No.  1,  Pittsburgh,  E.  Sir  Edward  Lewis,  Commander.  Alle- 
gheny Commandery  No.  35,  Allegheny,  E.  Sir  Lawrence  Kalmeyer, 
Commander.  Tancred  Commandery  No.  48,  Pittsburgh,  E.  Sir  Win- 
field  S.  Bell,  Commander.  De  Molay  Commandery  No.  9,  Reading. 
Pilgrim  Commandery  No.  11,  Harrisburg,  E.  Sir  Lewis  Beitler,  Com- 
mander. Towanda  Commandery  No.  16,  Towanda,  E.  Sir  Ed.  Carter, 
Jr.,  Commander.  Coeur  de  Lion  Commandery  No.  17,  Scranton.  Al- 
len Commandery  No.  20,  Allentown,  E.  Sir  W.  H.  Rontzheimer,  Com- 
mander. Baldwin  Commandery  No.  22,  Philadelphia,  E.  Sir  Albert 

F.  Young,  Commander.     Kodosh  Commandery  No.  29,  Philadelphia, 
E.  Sir  George  W.  Loudenslager,  Commander.     Mary  Commandery 
No.  36,  Philadelphia,  E.  Sir  Davis  W.  Stewart,  Commander.    Reading 
Commandery  No.  42,  Reading,  E.  Sir  John  M.  Goas,  Commander. 
Corinthian  Chasseur  Commandery    No.  53,  Philadelphia,  Sir  Knight 
John  C.  Taylor,  Generalissimo.   Melita  Commandery  No.  68,  Scranton. 
Mount  Vernon  Commandery  No.  73,  Hazelton,  E.  Sir  William  Glover, 
Jr.,  Commander.     Golden  Gate  Club,  E.  Sir  J.  H.  Murray  in  charge. 
Reading  Club. 

RHODE  ISLAND — Grand  Commandery  of  Massachusetts  and 
Rhode  Island.  See  Massachusetts.  St.  Johns  Commandery  No.  1, 
Providence.  Holy  Sepulchre  Commandery  No.  8,  Pawtucket,  E.  Sir 
William  W.  Curtis,  Commander.  Calvary  Commandery  No.  13, 
Providence,  E.  Sir  Chas.  C.  Darling,  Commander. 
(H) 


162        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

SOUTH  CAROLINA — South  Carolina  Commandery  No.  1, 
Charleston,  E.  Sir  James  R.  Johnson,  Acting  Commander. 

SOUTH  DAKOTA— Grand  Commandery. 

TENNESSEE— Grand  Commandery,  R.  E.  Sir  A.  N.  Sloan, 
Grand  Commander. 

TEXAS — Grand  Commandery.    Texas  Delegation,  San  Antonio. 

UTAH— Utah  Commandery  No.  1,  Salt  Lake  City.  El  Monte 
Commandery  No.  2,  Ogden,  E.  Sir  Jacob  H.  Epperson,  Commander. 

VERMONT — Grand  Commandery.  Vermont  Frisco  Club,  White 
River  Junction. 

WEST  VIRGINIA— Grand  Commandery,  R.  E.  Sir  W.  M.  Van 
Winkle,  Commander. 

WASHINGTON— Grand  Commandery.  Seattle  Delegation, 
Seattle.  Whatcom  Delegation,  Whatcom. 

WISCONSIN — Grand  Commandery.  Ivanhoe  Commandery  No. 
24,  Milwaukee,  E.  Sir  Sam  W.  French,  Commander. 

WYOMING — Grand  Commandery. 

ENGLA-ND  AND  WALES— Great  Priory,  The  Right  Honor- 
able, The  Earl  of  Euston,  G.  C.  T.,  33  degree  Most  Eminent  and  Su- 
preme Grand  Master,  and  official  staff. 

CANADA — Great  Priory.  Victoria  Delegation,  Victoria,  B.  C. 
Vancouver  Delegation,  Vancouver,  B.  C. 

Aside  from  the  above  mentioned,  may  other  Commanderies  were 
represented.  They  came  as  delegations,  which  represented  a  number 
of  Commanderies  in  the  same  home  district. 

Many  of  our  pilgrims  spent  the  morning  in  continuing  their  sight- 
seeing expeditions.  The  Presidio  was  a  point  that  attracted  many. 
It  is  the  headquarters  of  the  Department  of  California,  and  covers  a 
stretch  of  1,500  acres  overlooking  San  Francisco  Bay.  Battalion 
drills  of  soldiery  take  place  every  day  and  the  spot  is  one  of  unusual 
beauty  and  interest. 

Walter  and  Ivor,  though  still  enjoying  the  luxury  of  bachelor- 
hood, are  noted  for  their  appreciation  of  all  that  is  sweet  in  this  life, 
and  with  this  reputation  established,  we  were  not  surprised  to  find 
them  in  charge  of  a  confectionery  store  opposite  the  hotel.  The  store 
could  be  viewed  both  within  and  without  from  the  hotel  windows, 
and  this  soon  revealed  to  us  that  two  unprotected  young  women  were 
compelled  to  toil  laboriously  behind  the  counters,  serving  confections 
to  the  demands  of  the  public.  Walter  and  Ivor,  gallant  to  a  fault, 
could  not  long  suffer  to  see  these  two  young  women  overwork  them- 
selves, so  they  rushed  to  their  assistance.  Some  unsympathetic  per- 
sons have  said  that  they  were  attracted  by  sweets  not  embodied  in  the 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        163 

candies,  but  be  that  as  it  may,  they  proved  themselves  silent  heroes 
to  the  cause  of  honest  working  girls,  and  when  the  true  history  of 
San  Francisco  is  again  written,  it  will  remain  incomplete  unless  it 
gives  proper  space  and  position  to  the  noble  efforts  of  these  two 
sympathetic  gentlemen  behind  the  counters  of  that  confectionery 
store. 

The  Navy  Department  ordered  all  Government  ships  of  the 
Pacific  squadron  stationed  in  the  harbor  of  San  Francisco  to  remain 
there  during  Conclave  week  for  the  benefit  of  the  visiting  Sir  Knights 
and  their  families.  The  United  States  flagship  New  York  was  anchor- 
ed off  the  foot  of  Clay  street;  her  boats  landing  at  Clay  street  wharf. 
Both  the  United  States  steamship  Pennington  and  the  United  States 
steamship  Marblehead  were  anchored  in  the  stream  opposite  Mission 
street  wharf.  The  torpedo  boats  were  ordered  from  Benicia  Bay  to 
the  Bay  of  San  Francisco,  to  remain  there  during  Conclave  week. 
These  boats  were  open  for  inspection  to  visitors.  During  the  morn- 
ing we  had  been  invited  to  visit  the  United  States  Flagship  New 
York,  which  was  lying  in  the  bay.  Several  Sir  Knights  and  their 
ladies  took  advantage  of  the  kind  offer,  and  steaming  out  into  the  bay, 
boarded  the  famous  ship.  The  natty  sailors,  the  wonderful  mechan- 
isms of  warfare,  the  powerful  guns  which  Uncle  Sam  knows  so  well 
how  to  use,  and  the  many  other  interesting  things  aboard  the  monster 
fighting  machine,  were  startling  and  most  interesting  revelations. 

The  afternoon  was  one  of  ceaseless  activity.  Sir  Knights  and 
their  ladies  were  coming  and  going  in  endless  procession  from  and  to 
every  point  of  the  compass.  San  Francisco  is  essentially  a  tourist's 
Mecca.  A  pleasure  loving  people  possessed  the  city,  and  being  the 
gateway  to  the  Orient,  there  is  probably  no  other  city  in  America 
whose  streets  are  filled  with  such  a  mixture  of  races  and  nationalities. 
Then,  because  of  its  adjacent  military  posts  and  naval  rendezvous, 
glittering  uniforms  of  foreign  officials  and  the  simpler  dress  of  Amer- 
ican soldiers  and  sailors  were  everywhere  apparent.  These  uniforms 
and  international  and  Oriental  costumes,  aided  by  the  brilliant  Knight 
Templar  regalia  and  the  splendid  decorations,  gave  a  brilliancy  to  the 
street  scenes  that  was  beyond  description. 

With  San  Francisco  as  a  starting  point,  days  and  weeks  could  be 
spent  in  pleasant  excursions.  A  sail  on  the  bay  or  a  visit  to  Oakland, 
the  favorite  home  city,  which  has  a  population  of  95,000.  The  city 
is  named  from  the  numerous  live-oaks  growing  in  its  gardens  and 
along  the  streets.  It  has  extensive  manufactures  and  a  magnificent 
view  over  the  expansive  bay  and  city  of  San  Francisco  and  the  dis- 
tant Golden  Gate.  In  the  Oakland  suburbs  is  Berkeley,  and  against 
the  shoulder  of  the  hills  which  mark  its  boundary,  may  be  seen  the 


buildings  of  the  great  State  University,  the  "Athens"  of  the  Pacific; 
the  attractive  grounds  cover  250  acres  and  the  endowment  exceeds 
$8,000,000.  Across  San  Antonio  estuary,  (which  the  work  of  the 
Federal  Government  has  converted  into  Oakland  Harbor)  the  city  of 
Alameda  peeps  from  its  clustered  oaks,  and  through  the  beautiful 
Piedmont  hills  to  Oakland  are  the  sister  cities  of  San  Leandro  and 
Haywards.  An  ascent  up  Mt.  Tamalpais  via  the  "crookedest  rail- 
road in  the  world"  which  parallels  itself  five  times  within  300  feet, 
is  a  trip  of  scenic  wealth. 

Those  who  visited  Fort  Mason,  the  headquarters  of  Major  Gen- 
eral Arthur  McArthur,  found  handsome  grounds  and  an  excellent 
view  of  the  bay.  Fisherman's  Wharf,  located  at  the  top  of  an  im- 
mense sea-wall,  disclosed  hundreds  of  Italian  fishermen  mooring 
their  picturesque  lateen-sailed  boats.  The  whole  waterfront  offered 
romantically  interesting  sights.  Schooners  discharging  pine  from 
Puget  Sound ;  steamers  unloading  cargos  from  Liverpool,  from 
Panama,  from  South  America,  from  Australia,  and  others  from  China 
and  Japan,  seemed  to  have  secrets  to  disclose  and  tales  of  interest  to 
relate.  White  transports  tell  of  the  Phillipines,  while  steamers  just 
in  from  the  frigid  shores  of  Alaska  also  find  place  in  this  international 
navy. 

The  spirit  of  roving  and  adventure  pervades  the  scene  at  the 
waterfront.  Here  one  may  observe  the  big  four-masters,  laden  with 
wheat,  brought  around  Cape  Horn.  A  rakish  brig  unloads  a  cargo 
of  copra  and  sandalwood,  which  tells  of  the  scented  groves  of  south 
Pacific  islands.  Over  yonder  are  big  bunkers,  with  sooty  workmen 
and  busy  engines,  straining  at  coal  buckets.  Japanese,  Chinese  and 
Koreans  mingle  with  the  throng. 

When  evening  comes  on,  the  deep  sea-chants  rise  above  the  city's 
roar  as  anchors  are  lifted.  One  then  keenly  feels  the  call  of  the  sea. 
The  genius  of  Stevenson  has  woven  a  halo  of  romance  over  these 
semi-tropical  seas  that  woos  the  traveler  with  well-nigh  irresistible 
charm.  As  you  look  westward  out  of  the  nation's  front  door  from 
the  Cliff  House  headland  height,  it  would  be  strange,  indeed,  if  you 
were  not  seized  with  a  longing  to  set  sail. 

Where  will  you  go? 

To  Hawaii?  Magical  isles,  wreathed  in  flowers  and  laved  by 
flashing  summer  seas ;  land  of  banana  plantations,  cane  and  rice  fields ; 
land  of  roaring  volcanoes  and  verdant  plains. 

To  Samoa?  Coral  shores  under  the  stars  and  stripes;  happy 
natives,  cocoanut  palms  and  delicious  tropical  fruit,  transparent  seas 
and  beautiful  shells. 

To  Tahiti?    Riotous  vegetation,  the  supple  bamboo,  broad-leafed 


SAN     FRANCISCO,     CALIFORNIA. 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        165 

banana  and  lance-leafed  mango ;  an  out-of-doors  country,  where  houses 
are  used  only  to  sleep  in. 

To  New  Zealand?  Newest  England,  as  it  has  been  fittingly 
called;  half  around  the  world,  but  nearer  than  many  have 
thought ;  the  famous  west  coast  sounds,  rivaling  the  fiords  of  Norway. 

To  Australia?  A  partly  explored  continent  of  vast  and  varied 
resources ;  wonderful  cities,  strange  races,  and  strange  flora  and  fauna, 
kangaroos  and  paroquets,  cockatoos  and  pouched  bears. 

Which  one,  or  all  of  them? 

The  bay  of  San  Francisco  is  almost  completely  encircled  by  land. 
The  Golden  Gate  is  the  tide-way,  a  narrow  passage  between  the  ex- 
tremities of  two  peninsulas,  upon  the  point  of  the  southernmost  of 
which  the  city  stands. 

Few  bays  are  more  picturesque,  none  better  suited  to  the  purpose 
of  commerce.  Crossing  on  the  fine  Santa  Fe  ferry  boat  and  leaving 
the  dock  at  Point  Richmond,  San  Francisco  Bay  proper  extends  far 
beyond  the  limits  of  vision  southward.  To  the  north  are  other  por- 
tions of  the  same  bay,  though  carrying  distinctive  names.  At  the 
head  of  San  Pablo  Bay  is  Mare  Island,  with  "Uncle  Sam's"  big  navy 
yards.  Mount  Diablo  seems  to  rise  close  upon  the  Suisun  shore. 

Here,  too,  the  Franciscan  mission-builders  were  first  upon  the 
field,  and  the  present  name  is  a  curtailment  of  Mission  de  los  Dolores 
de  Nuestro  Padre  San  Francisco  de  Asis,  an  appellation  commemora- 
tive of  the  sorrows  of  the  originator  of  the  order.  The  Mission 
Dolores,  founded  in  1776,  is  still  preserved  with  its  little  campo  santo 
of  the  dead,  a  poor,  unsightly,  strangled  thing,  structurally  unimpos- 
ing  and  wholly  wanting  in  the  poetic  atmosphere  of  semi-solitude 
that  envelops  the  missions  of  Southern  California.  A  modern  cathe- 
dral overshadows  it,  and  shops  and  dwellings  jostle  it.  So  nearly,  in 
forty  years,  has  all  trace  of  the  preceding  three-quarters  of  a  century 
been  obliterated.  Changed  from  a  Spanish  to  a  Mexican  province  early 
in  the  century,  then  promptly  stripped  of  the  treasures  that  had  been 
accumulated  by  monkish  administration,  and  subsequently  ceded  to 
the  United  States,  California  had  on  the  whole  a  dreamy,  quiet  life 
until  that  famous  nugget  was  found  in  1848.  Then  followed  the  era 
of  the  Argonauts,  seekers  of  the  golden  fleece,  who  flocked  by  the 
thousands  from  eastern  towns  and  cities  by  way  of  the  plains,  the 
Isthmus  and  the  Cape,  to  dig  in  the  gravel-beds ;  lawless  adventurers 
in  their  train ;  while  the  peculiar  character  of  the  population  made  it 
then  so  lawless,  that  twice  the  better  element  had  to  take  summary 
control  of  the  municipal  government  by  "Vigilance  Committees,"  who 
did  not  hesitate  to  execute  promptly  notorious  criminals.  San  Fran- 
cisco practically  dates  from  that  period.  Its  story  is  a  wild  one,  a 


166        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

working-out  of  order  and  stable  commercial  prosperity  through 
chapters  that  treat  of  feverish  gold-crazy  mobs,  of  rapine  grappled 
by  the  vigilance  committee,  of  insurrection  crushed  by  military  force. 
And  in  this  prosperity,  oddly  enough,  the  production  of  gold  has  been 
superseded  in  importance  by  other  resources ;  for  although  California 
annually  yields  more  precious  metal  than  any  other  state,  the  yearly 
value  of  its  marketed  cattle,  wool,  cereals,  roots,  fruits,  sugar  and 
wines,  is  twice  as  great,  and  forms  the  real  commercial  basis  of  the 
great  city  of  the  Pacific  coast. 

As  if  it  were  fearful  of  being  hid,  it  is  set  upon  not  one,  but  a 
score  of  hills,  of  which  a  group  extends  westward  from  the  bay,  vary- 
ing in  height  from  less  than  200  to  over  900  feet.  Conspicuous  among 
them  are  the  Telegraph  Hill,  Nob  Hill,  Park  Peak,  the  Mission  Peaks 
and  others  overlooking  land  and  sea.  As  you  near  the  city  by  way 
of  Point  Richmond,  you  will  be  dull,  indeed,  if  your  pulses  are  not 
stirred  in  anticipation  of  viewing  one  of  the  really  great  cities  of  the 
world. 

When  the  first  burst  of  delight  at  the  wondrous  panorama  had 
settled  into  a  calmer  satisfaction,  we  began  to  pick  out  and  inquire 
concerning  the  various  points  of  interest.  Off  to  the  right,  which  is 
here  the  west,  is  a  lofty  red  island,  and  beyond,  on  the  shore,  a  grim 
cluster  of  red  and  gray  buildings.  The  cluster  of  foreboding  buildings 
is  the  State  Prison  on  Point  San  Quentin. 

Angel  Island,  on  the  south  of  Raccoon  Straits,  is  like  all  the 
islands  of  the  bay,  government  property.  Just  around  the  first  head- 
land is  Hospital  Cove,  and  there  is  located  the  United  States  Quaran- 
tine Station.  The  island  itself  is  one-and-a-half  miles  long,  its  crest 
rises  760  feet  from  the  bay,  and  its  area  is  about  600  acres. 

Looking  back  towards  the  bay  shore  on  the  left,  the  island  be- 
tween Point  Richmond  and  the  mainland  carries  the  pastoral  title  of 
Sheep  Island.  The  Government  puts  it  to  no  use.  On  the  shore 
beyond  are  the  powder  works,  where  dynamite  and  other  high  ex- 
plosives are  manufactured. 

Goat  Island  is  one  of  the  most  conspicuous  islands  in  the  harbor. 
On  this  the  Government  has  a  torpedo  supply  station  for  the  war- 
ships, a  depot  for  the  buoys  and  supplies  of  the  lighthouse  tenders, 
and  a  new  Naval  Training  School,  where  American  lads  are  to  be 
taught  how  to  defend  the  country's  honor  upon  the  sea. 

There  is  a  whiff  of  fresh  salt  breeze  as  the  boat  passes  beyond  the 
southerly  point  of  Angel  Island,  and  we  turned  to  the  right  again  to 
view  the  Golden  Gate. 

Here,  indeed,  is  fascinating  beauty.  The  broad  bay  narrows  to 
the  width  of  a  mile — the  Golden  Gate  proper — and  through  this  nar- 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        167 

row  passage  ebb  and  flow  the  mighty  tides.  Some  resistless  forces 
of  old  earth's  agony  seem  to  have  rent  the  big  hills  to  make  this  way 
for  commerce.  Its  guardian  heights  rise  2,000  feet  on  the  left  hand, 
stretching  up  to  the  peaks  of  Tumulpais  to  the  northward.  On  the 
right  hand  the  heights  are  lower,  but  still  lofty.  The  slopes  are  bare 
and  sandy.  From  their  bluffs  may  be  seen  the  guns  of  a  heavy 
battery  of  12-inch  rifles — 473  feet  above  the  sea  level — the  highest 
heavy  gun  battery  in  tine  world. 

Inside  the  Gate  are  attractions  for  nearer  view.  In  mid-channel 
the  fortified  island  of  Alcatraz  rears  itself  140  feet  above  low  water. 
Here  is  the  military  prison  and  an  artillery  post,  with  a  torpedo 
station  and  a  light  that  can  be  seen  for  19  miles  out  at  sea.  These 
attributes,  together  with  the  romantic  prison  and  a  melancholy  fog 
bell,  give  the  island  a  peculiar  grim  fascination  to  the  visitor. 

One  of  the  pretty  and  appropriate  sentiments  of  the  afternoon 
was  made  manifest  when  the  Sir  Knights  of  De  Molay  Commandery 
No.  7,  of  Boston,  went  in  a  body  to  the  monument  erected  in  Golden 
Gate  Park  to  the  memory  of  the  late  Rev.  Thomas  Starr  King. 
Under  direction  of  their  Eminent  Commander  they  participated  in  an 
imposing  ceremony  and  placed  a  wreath  of  "victory  palms"  at  the 
base  of  the  monument,  while  fitting  tributes  were  paid.  The  Rev.  Mr. 
King  had  formerly  been  a  leader  and  public  man  in  Boston. 

San  Francisco  and  California  Commanderies,  as  hosts,  spent  the 
day  in  attending  to  social  duties  and  "open  house"  prevailed  every- 
where. Golden  Gate  Commandery  No.  16  and  California  Command- 
ery No.  1  were  lavish  entertainers,  while  all  the  Commanderies  lo- 
cated in  Mechanic's  Pavilion  held  a  general  reception.  Aside  from 
this,  receptions  were  held  at  the  various  hotel  headquarters  after- 
noon and  evening. 

At  the  Palace  Hotel  a  reception  was  held  afternoon  and  evening 
by  the  ladies  of  the  general  reception  committee.  A  Hawaiian  band 
discoursed  native  airs,  while  talented  little  Chinese  girls  sang  during 
the  serving  of  refreshments. 

With  the  throngs  coursing  the  streets  in  gala  attire  under  the 
blaze  of  the  many-colored  electrical  decorations,  the  night  was  a 
memorable  one.  We  visited  in  turn  the  various  reception  head- 
quarters, drills,  band  concerts  and  other  diversions.  The  city  was 
in  possession  of  a  merry  and  loving  gathering  that  numbered  thous- 
ands, and  while  the  great  majority  were  strangers  to  one  another, 
each  sought  to  make  the  other  more  content  and  happier.  The  glitter- 
ing uniforms — the  color  and  brilliancy  of  the  street  scenes — together 
with  the  music  of  laughter  and  good  cheer  that  everywhere  found 
expression,  made  life  both  appear  and  feel,  anew. 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        169 

pendicular  rows ;  apothecaries  expounding  the  medicinal  virtues  of 
toad  and  snake ;  gold  workers  making  bracelets  of  the  precious  metal 
to  be  welded  about  the  arm  of  him  who  dares  not  trust  his  hoard  to 
another's  keep ;  restaurateurs  serving  really  palatable  conserves,  with 
pots  of  delectable  tea;  shop-keepers  vending  strange  foreign  fruits 
and  dubious  edibles  plucked  from  the  depths  of  nightmare;  mer- 
chants displaying  infinitude  of  curious  trinkets  and  elaborate  costly 
wares ;  worshipers  and  readers  of  the  book  of  fate  in  rich  temples, 
niched  with  uncouth  deities ;  conventional  actors  playing  interminable 
histrionics  to  respectful  and  appreciative  auditors ;  gamblers  stoically 
venturing  desperate  games  of  chance  with  cards  and  dominoes ;  opium 
smokers  stretched  upon  their  bunks  in  a  hot  atmosphere  heavy  with 
sickening  fumes;  unutterable  vices  no  whit  above  the  level  of  deep 
damnation — such  is  the  Chinatown  one  brings  away  in  lasting  mem- 
ory after  three  hours  of  peering,  entering,  ascending,  descending, 
crossing  and  delving. 

A  very  orderly  and  quiet  community,  withal,  for  the  Mongolian 
is  not  commonly  an  obstreperous  individual,  and  his  vices  are  not 
of  the  kind  that  inflame  to  deeds  of  violence.  He  knows  no  more 
convivial  bowl  than  a  cup  of  tea. 

The  joss-houses,  or  temples,  are  hung  with  ponderous  gilded 
carvings,  with  costly  draperies  and  rich  machinery  of  worship.  The 
deities  are  fearful  conceptions,  ferocious  of  countenance,  bristling 
with  hair,  and  decked  with  tinseled  robes.  A  tiny  vestal-flame  burns 
dimly  in  a  corner,  and  near  it  stands  a  huge  gong.  An  attendant 
strikes  this  gong  vociferously  to  arouse  the  god,  and  then  prostrates 
himself  before  the  altar,  making  three  salaams.  A  couple  of  short 
billets,  half-round,  are  then  tossed  into  the  air  to  bode  good  or  ill 
luck  to  you  according  as  they  fall  upon  the  one  or  the  other  side.  A 
good  augury  having  been  secured  by  dint  of  persistent  tossing,  a 
quiverful  of  joss-sticks  is  next  taken  in  hand  and  dexterously  shaken 
until  three  have  fallen  to  the  floor.  The  sticks  are  numbered  and 
correspond  to  paragraphs  in  a  fate  book  that  is  next  resorted  to,  and 
you  are  ultimately  informed  that  you  will  live  for  forty  years  to  come, 
that  you  will  marry  within  two  years,  and,  if  your  sex  and  air  seem 
to  countenance  such  a  venture,  that  you  will  shortly  make  enormous 
winnings  at  poker. 

With  all  the  novelty  that  Chinatown  offers  to  the  uninitiated, 
none  receive  the  attention  and  patronage  as  is  bestowed  upon  the 
Chinese  play.  For  acts  that  are  mysterious  and  plays  that  are  pecu- 
liar, crude,  boisterous  and  positively  insane  to  the  Occidental  eye  and 
ear,  the  Celestial  performance  "takes  the  palm."  The  play,  whether 
comedy  or  drama,  varies  in  length  from  six  to  eight  hours  to  one 


170        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

continuous  performance  that  holds  the  stage  for  three  or  more  months. 
Since  women  are  excluded  from  the  stage,  male  actors  impersonate 
feminine  roles.  Make-up  is  of  chief  import;  acting  is  secondary. 
Stage  property  and  scenery  as  Americans  know  them  are  foreign  to 
the  Chinese  stage.  A  chair  is  made  to  represent  anything  from  a 
castle  or  fortress  to  a  bridge  or  horse,  according  to  signs  which  are 
displayed  now  and  again,  and  which  assist  the  spectator  in  encour- 
aging his  imagination  in  giving  other  form  to  the  chair.  The  musi- 
cians (and  it  is  the  greatest  charity  to  call  them  such)  are  seated 
upon  the  stage  among  the  actors,  and  so  are  all  distinguished  visitors. 

The  stage  manager  and  his  assistants  now  and  then  erect  a  small 
background  suggestive  of  environment,  and  the  province  of  the 
orchestra  is  to  accentuate  emotion — in  which  they  attain  no  small 
degree  of  success.  It  is  highly  conventionalized  drama,  in  which  any 
kind  of  incongruity  may  elbow  the  players  provided  it  does  not  con- 
fuse the  mind  by  actually  intervening  between  them  and  the  audience. 
The  plays  are  largely  historical,  or  at  least  legendary.  There  are 
stars  whose  celebrity  packs  the  house  to  the  limit  of  standing-room, 
and  there  are  the  same  strained  silent  attention  and  quick  rippling 
response  to  witty  passages  that  mark  our  own  play-houses ;  but  such 
demonstrative  applause  as  the  clapping  of  hands  and  the  stamping  of 
feet  is  unknown.  The  Chinese  theatre-goer  would  as  soon  think  of 
so  testifying  enjoyment  of  a  good  book  in  the  quiet  of  his  home. 

Entering  the  Grand  Opera  House  (where  the  Chinese  perform- 
ance was  given  during  the  Conclave  week)  we  found  ourselves  a 
portion  of  an  audience  that  tested  the  seating  capacity  as  well  as  the 
standing-room  of  the  house.  The  audience  was  a  representative  one, 
which  would  have  done  justice  to  any  grand  opera  performance. 

Scanning  the  programs  which  were  passed  through  the  audience 
by  Chinese  boys,  we  found  a  synopsis  of  the  trouble  in  store,  in  both 
Chinese  and  English ;  we  also  learned  that  the  performance  was 
divided  into  two  parts.  The  first  was  to  be  a  portrayal  of  vicissitudes 
during  the  reign  of  Yan  Tsung — 1022-1046  A.  D.  It  appeared  from 
the  program  that  a  wealthy  Chinaman  had  two  wives,  and  that  mali- 
cious reports  had  been  spread  concerning  a  son  and  daughter  of  each. 
This  led  to  a  war  of  clans  that  threatened  the  empire,  but  virtue  and 
truth  finally  triumphed.  From  the  performance  it  seemed  that  all 
we  witnessed  was  the  war  of  the  clans. 

The  second  part,  according  to  the  program,  was  the  story  of 
seven  angels,  who,  descending  from  heaven  became  seven  beautiful 
young  women,  the  youngest  of  which  was  the  most  beautiful.  She 
had  a  host  of  suitors,  but  was  eventually  won  by  a  poor  youth  who  had 
nothing  to  offer  but  a  good  name.  Owing  to  the  fact  that  women 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        171 

were  not  permitted  to  appear  upon  the  stage,  and  that  the  seven 
"beautiful  angels"  were  portrayed  by  as  many  coolies,  there  was  much 
speculation  among  the  audience  as  to  who  the  irresistibly  handsome 
younger  one  was.  As  a  matter  of  fact  no  one  knew  when  the  first 
part  ended  or  the  second  began. 

We  sat  in  our  seats  three  whole  hours  and  never  understood 
any  thing  but  the  lightning  and  thunder  which  was  sometimes  re- 
versed by  the  property  man  turning  the  thunder  loose  first.  The  din 
of  banging,  slamming  and  clashing  of  tin  pans,  wash  boilers,  cymbals, 
hammering  of  gongs  and  monotonous  squealing  of  stringed  weapons, 
and  other  instruments  of  torture  by  the  orchestra  (which  was  com- 
placently smoking  while  seated  on  soap  boxes  upon  the  stage)  was 
indescribable.  Two  of  the  leading  actors,  standing  behind  chairs 
(which  might  have  represented  warships  or  fruit  stands  for  ought  we 
knew)  faced  each  other  with  wild  and  violent  gesticulations  and  emit- 
ted piercing  yells  that  were  audible  over  the  bombardment  of  the 
orchestra.  • 

Occasionally  Sir  Flechsig  would  applaud  the  performers  vigor- 
ously, and  we  were  at  a  loss  to  know  for  what  reason,  as  he  was  not 
suspected  of  being  posted  on  Chinese  drama  or  to  have  a  speaking 
acquaintanceship  with  the  language.  It  developed  later,  however, 
that  he  had  an  acquaintance  who  is  a  shorthand  writer  in  an  Alle- 
gheny Chinese  laundry,  who  had  given  him  many  written  orders  for 
clean  linen.  From  this  familiarity  he  felt  that  he  could  interpret  one 
of  the  signs  on  the  stage  to  read  "to  be  done  next  Friday."  As  this 
was  Monday  night  he  had  reason  for  hope  in  the  sign. 

The  antics  of  the  performers  knew  no  description."  Those  slain 
in  full  view  of  the  audience  found  an  almost  immediate  resurrection, 
and  trotted  off  the  stage  without  exciting  the  least  commotion.  The 
costumes  were  a  riot  of  color  worked  into  such  combinations  and 
forms  as  were  beyond  the  wildest  imaginations  of  the  most  insane. 
No  two  performers  were  garbed  alike.  There  was  no  freak  in  dress 
too  crazy  to  be  indulged  in ;  no  absurdity  too  absurd  to  be  tolerated ; 
no  frenzy  in  diabolism  too  fantastic  to  be  attempted.  It  was  wild 
masquerade  of  inconceivable  costumes  that  even  a  tailor  with  delir- 
ium tremens  and  seven  devils  could  not  pattern.  The  headgear  was 
equally  as  outlandish.  Some  of  the  hats  were  shaped  like  the  Eiffel 
tower  with  as  many  stories,  and  a  few  more  balconies  and  trimmings. 
Others  were  magnificent  in  their  simplicity — being  nothing  more  than 
stove-pipe-shaped  exaggerations  in  many  colors  and  embellished  with 
tassels  and  Chinese  embroidery. 

The  property  man  was  the  undisputed  monarch  of  the  perform- 
ance. He  sat  among  the  actors  and  orchestra  upon  the  stage,  with 


172        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

an  air  of  authority  that  knew  no  denial.  Occasionally,  when  he  felt 
that  it  was  time  to  change  the  scenery,  he  would  unceremoniously 
order  the  actor  essaying  the  role  of  king  to  abdicate  his  soap-box 
throne,  and  readjusting  the  paraphernalia  to  suit  himself,  lighted  a 
cigarette  and  with  a  saucy  air  and  commanding  wave  of  his  hand 
ordered  the  performance  to  continue.  There  being  no  curtain  used, 
the  scenic  changes  lent  additional  interest. 

All  emotions  and  passions  were  depicted  and  expressed  in  music 
(?),  while  the  lines  of  the  actors  were  read  in  sing-song  accord  to 
the  noise  made  almost  continuously  by  the  orchestra.  To  be  compelled 
to  endure  it  in  silence  made  it  more  severe.  Seated  about  were  ladies 
and  gentlemen  unknown  to  us,  and  this  necessitated  repression ;  yet 
at  times  the  pain  was  so  difficult  to  bear  that  Sir  Oscar  could  scarcely 
restrain  his  tears.  As  the  howling,  wailing  and  shrieking  of  the 
performers,  and  the  raging,  bombarding  and  explosions  of  the  orches- 
tra rose  higher  and  higher,  wilder  and  wilder,  and  fiercer  and  fiercer, 
Sir  Oscar  could  have  cried,  had  he  been  alone. 

The  foot-lights  went  out  several  times  for  refreshments  and  on 
the  whole  the  performance  was  a  grand  success.  The  first  time  the 
lights  adjourned,  an  usher  appeared  on  the  stage  with  a  kerosene 
lamp,  but  the  audience  with  one  voice  laughed  him  out  into  the  star- 
less night.  We  shall  never  forget  how  proud  and  buoyant  he  looked 
as  he  sailed  in  with  that  kerosene  lamp  and  soiled  chimney,  and  how 
hurt  and  grieved  he  seemed  when  he  took  it  and  groped  his  way  out, 
while  the  house  trembled  with  merriment. 

The  actors  are  the  slaves,  the  chattels  of  the  manager  or  pro- 
prietor ;  they  live  in  the  basement  beneath  the  stage  and  come  to  the 
street  rarely,  and  then  only  by  stealth.  Their  one  living  room  under 
the  stage  suffices  for  all  purposes.  Here  they  cook,  eat  after  midnight, 
and  sleep  all  day.  This  of  course  refers  only  to  the  Chinese  Theatre 
where  the  performances  are  customarily  given.  It  is  said  the  actors 
live  on  the  coarsest  food  and  represent  the  lowest  and  most  despised 
class  or  casts  of  China. 

It  was  with  a  degree  of  the  greatest  appreciation  that  we  again 
breathed  the  out-door  air,  after  the  performance  had  run  its  three 
hour  course.  The  beautifully  illuminated  and  decorated  streets  af- 
forded a  marked  contrast.  The  thoroughfares,  hotels,  headquarters 
and  casinos  were  thronged  with  fashionably  attired  men  and  women, 
and  the  holiday  spirit  prevailed  uninterrupted.  Slowly  wending  our 
way  to  the  hotel,  we  reluctantly  retired  to  our  rooms— to  dream  a 
Chinese  nightmare! 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        173 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

LJESDAY — the  day  of  the  parade — had  arrived.  Every  Sir 
Knight  was  up  and  about  early  in  the  day.  Uniforms  were  given 
a  final  brush,  belts  adjusted,  and  all  other  duties  essential  to  good 
appearance  were  performed. 

The  day  was  oppressively  hot ;  this  was  forecasted  in  the  early  hours. 
Sir  Seiling,  who  had  become  overheated  while  polishing  a  belt  buckle, 
called  the  Jap  bell  boy  and  ordered  some  ice.  The  boy  disappeared  and 
returning  shortly  with  an  old  newspaper,  handed  it  to  Sir  Seiling  with 
the  information  that  he  could  get  a  supply  "down  at  the  grocery."  Sir 
Seiling  refused  to  act  upon  the  suggestion,  fearing  that  carrying  dripping 
ice  through  the  streets  of  San  Francisco  in  dress  Templar  uniform  would 
establish  a  tiresome  summer  fashion. 

What  threatened  to  appear  as  a  "before  and  after  taking"  advertise- 
ment in  the  ranks  of  the  Allegheny  paraders,  was  narrowly  averted  while 
our  delegation  was  dressing  for  parade.  In  some  manner  Sir  "Bobbie" 
received  Sir  Oscar's  trousers  and  the  latter  secured  Sir  "Bobbie's,"  and 
if  it  were  not  for  the  fact  that  Sir  Oscar  tried  his  on  first,  the  fatal  error 
might  not  have  been  discovered  until  too  late,  for  "Bobbie"  certainly 
had  no  trouble  falling  into  Oscar's  garment,  which  was  considerably 
wider  than  his  own. 

The  program  for  the  day  teemed  with  interesting  events.  Following 
the  parade  of  the  morning,  the  Triennial  Session  of  the  Grand  Encamp- 
ment was  scheduled  to  open  in  Golden  Gate  Hall  in  the  afternoon,  while 
a  reception  was  to  be  given  in  Native  Sons'  Hall  by  Oakland  Command- 
ery,  No.  11.  One  of  the  stellar  events  which  the  evening  had  in  store 
was  a  reception  by  Pittsburgh  Commandery,  No.  I,  to  Sir  Knights  and 
ladies  of  San  Francisco  and  visiting  fraters  and  their  ladies  at  the  Com- 
mandery headquarters  in  the  Palace  Hotel,  from  8  to  12  o'clock.  Other 
prominent  events  of  the  evening  were :  Reception  to  Grand  Master  at 
Palace  Hotel.  Promenade  concert  in  the  nave  of  the  Ferry  building,  8 
until  12.  Chinese  play  at  the  Grand  Opera  House,  8:15  to  10:15  o'clock. 
Reception  by  Sacramento  Commandery  No.  2  at  Pioneer  Hall.  Recep- 
tion by  San  Jose  Commandery  No.  10  at  Mechanics'  Pavilion.  Recep- 
tion by  Oakland  Commandery  No.  n  at  Native  Sons'  Hall.  Reception 
by  Golden  Gate  Commandery  No.  16  at  Golden  Gate  Hall.  Exhibition 
drill  and  band  concert  by  Malta  Commandery  Drill  Corps,  Binghamton, 


174        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

N.  Y.,  in  front  of  the  Palace  Hotel.  Open  air  concert  in  Union  Square, 
from  8  until  n  p.  m. 

We  knew  the  day  would  be  without  rain  and  that  the  sun  would 
shine  forth  in  all  its  radiance,  but  we  had  not  anticipated  102  degrees 
under  which  to  make  a  march  of  several  miles,  and  execute  military 
maneuvers  on  the  public  highways. 

The  parade  started  10:15  o'clock  in  the  morning  and  continued  its 
march  until  i  :2O  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  covering  a  distance  estimated 
from  four  and  one-half  to  seven  miles.  It  moved  like  one  piece  of  won- 
derful mechanism,  and  what  a  gorgeous  pageant  it  was.  The  whole 
affair  was  marvelously  planned  and  executed,  and  the  great  army  of 
mounted  and  marching  Sir  Knights,  in  number,  appearance  and  pre- 
cision, presented  an  imposing  array. 

The  mighty  column,  said  to  have  been  the  most  notable  parade  ever 
seen  in  San  Francisco,  was  led  in  its  march  by  Governor  Pardee  of  Cali- 
fornia, and  Mayor  Schmitz  of  San  Francisco.  E.  Sir  Charles  L.  Field, 
Grand  Captain-General  of  California,  was  in  full  command,  assisted  by 
an  able  staff,  headed  by  E.  Sir  George  D.  Clark.  Behind  them  rode  a 
squad  of  police,  Sir  George  W.  Wittman,  Chief  of  Police,  commanding, 
followed  by  a  corps  of  mounted  buglers. 

FIRST   GRAND   DIVISION. 

R.  E.  Sir  Frank  William  Sumner,  Past  Grand  Commander  of  Cali- 
fornia, Chief  of  Division ;  E.  Sir  Jessee  B.  Fuller,  Chief  of  Staff.  Cali- 
fornia Commandery  No.  I  (mounted),  E.  Sir  Charles  M.  Plum,  Com- 
mander, as  Special  Escort  to  the  Grand  Master.  Officers  and  members 
of  the  Grand  Encampment  and  visitors  from  other  Grand  Jurisdictions, 
under  command  of  V.  E.  Sir  W.  B.  Melish,  Grand  Captain-General. 

California  Commandery  No.  I,  led  the  First  Grand  Division  as  escort 
to  the  entire  parade.  These  350  Knights,  attired  in  their  handsome 
velvet  costumes  embroidered  in  white,  and  mounted  upon  sleek-coated 
steeds  of  black,  with  a  military  band  dressed  in  blue,  bringing  up  in  the 
rear,  formed  a  beautiful  picture  and  received  just  and  enthusiastic 
applause  all  along  the  line  of  march. 

Next  came  the  California  Bugle  and  Drum  Corps  leading,  the  first 
carriage  containing:  Most  Eminent  Sir  Henry  Bates  Stoddard,  Grand 
Master  of  the  Grand  Encampment  of  Knights  Templar  of  the  United 
States  of  America ;  Most  Eminent  the  Earl  of  Euston,  Grand  Master  of 
the  Great  Priory  of  England  and  Wales. 

Second  carriage:  R.  E.  Sir  George  Mayhew  Moulton,  Deputy 
Grand  Master  of  the  Grand  Encampment;  V.  E.  C.  Fitzgerald  Matter, 
G.  C.  T.,  Great  Vice-Chancellor  of  the  Great  Priory. 

Other  officers  of  the  Grand  Encampment  in  carriages. 

These  carriages  were  followed  by  Golden  Gate  Commandery  No.  16, 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        175 

E.  Sir  P.  D.  Code,  Commander,  resplendent  in  full-dress  uniform,  act- 
ing as  Special  Escort  to  the  Grand  Encampment. 

Following  Golden  Gate  Commandery  came  a  line  of  carriages  con- 
taining members  of  the  Grand  Encampment,  visitors  from  other  Grand 
Jurisdictions  and  officers  and  past  officers  of  State  Commanderies. 

Terminating  the  First  Grand  Division  came  a  brown  cub  bear 
chained  to  a  pole  in  the  center  of  a  float  and  shambling  around  in  playing 
the  part  of  mascot  for  his  Commandery.  The  float  was  decorated  with 
the  black  and  white  of  the  Templar,  and  the  national  colors.  As  a  finale 
to  the  First  Division  came  ambulance  wagons  ready  to  relieve  the  injured 
at  a  moment's  notice. 

SECOND  GRAND  DIVISION. 

R.  E.  Sir  Freeman  C.  Hersey,  Grand  Commander  of  Massachusetts 
and  Rhode  Island,  Chief  of  Division;  Sir  Frederick  E.  Pierce,  Chief  of 
Staff.  The  Grand  Commandery  of  Massachusetts  and  Rhode  Island  and 
Subordinate  Commanderies. 

THIRD   GRAND  DIVISION. 

R.  E.  Sir  Harrison  Dingman,  Past  Grand  Commander  of  District 
of  Columbia,  Chief  of  Division ;  R.  E.  Sir  Charles  Clark,  Chief  of  Staff. 
The  following  Grand  Commanderies  and  their  Subordinate  Commander- 
ies :  New  York,  Virginia,  Vermont,  New  Hampshire,  Connecticut.  The 
banners  of  this  division  were  exceptionally  beautiful,  while  a  large  rep- 
resentation of  Sir  Knights  and  Commanderies  were  shown. 

FOURTH    GRAND   DIVISION. 

R.  E.  Sir  Thomas  Kite,  Grand  Commander  of  Ohio,  Chief  of  Divi- 
sion; E.  Sir  John  Nelson  Bell,  Chief  of  Staff.  The  following  Grand 
Commanderies  and  their  Subordinate  Commanderies,  Ohio,  Kentucky, 
Maine.  Subordinate  Commanderies  under  the  Grand  Encampment  of 
the  United  States.  The  Louisville,  Ky.,  band  reaped  a  large  share  of 
applause  by  the  rendition  of  Southern  airs,  while  the  Louisville  Drill 
Corps  executed  some  fine  maneuvers.  Maine  was  well  represented  by 
Portland  Commandery,  while  Ohio  contributed  much  to  the  success  of 
the  parade.  Ambulances  followed  the  Buckeye  Sir  Knights  and  then 
came  the  flags  and  magnificent  banners  of  the 

FIFTH    GRAND   DIVISION. 

This  section  was  made  up  entirely  of  Sir  Knights  from  the  Keystone 
State,  and  with  the  exception  of  the  California  representation,  Pennsyl- 
vania had  by  far  the  greatest  number  of  Sir  Knights  in  line.  This  fact 
was  heartily  appreciated  over  the  full  route  of  the  parade  and  applause 
was  most  liberally  showered  upon  this  division. 

"Look  at  Allegheny!"  "Look  at  Allegheny!"  was  the  cry  along  the 
line  of  march  as  our  pilgrims,  forty-four  in  number,  executed  some  of 
their  well-known  manuevers.  It  is  not  egotism  to  say  that  the  "boys" 


176        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

kept  bravely  at  their  tasks  under  the  sweltering  sun,and  that  as  march- 
ers, and  for  military  bearing  they  had  few  equals  in  the  monster  parade. 
Pittsburgh  Commandery  No.  I,  Tancred  Commandery  No.  48,  and  other 
commanderies,  all  notable  for  drill  work,  included  Washington,  Harris- 
burg,  Allen,  Kodosh,  Philadelphia,  Reading,  De  Molay,  Pilgrim, 
Towanda,  Coeur  de  Lion,  Baldwin,  Mary,  Corinthian,  Chasseur,  Melita, 
Mount  Vernon  and  Golden  Gate  Club.  The  division  was  in  command  of 
R.  E.  Sir  Wilson  I.  Fleming,  Grand  Commander  of  Pennsylvania,  and 
E.  Sir  Frank  McSparren,  Chief  of  Staff.  Pittsburgh  Commandery  No. 
I,  was  especially  well  represented,  its  column  of  marchers  extending  more 
than  half  a  square,  while  Tancred  Commandery  also  shared  liberally  in 
the  applause  showered  upon  the  Pennsylvania  delegations. 

SIXTH   GRAND  DIVISION. 

V.  E.  George  Edwin  Ohara,  Deputy  Grand  Commander  of  Illinois, 
Chief  of  Division;  Holman  G.  Puritan,  Chief  of  Staff.  The  following 
Grand  Commanderies  and  their  Subordinate  Commanderies:  Indiana, 
Texas,  Mississippi,  Michigan,  Illinois,  Tennessee,  Wisconsin,  New  Jer- 
sey, Georgia,  Missouri,  Alabama,  Louisiana. 

SEVENTH  GRAND  DIVISION. 

E.  Sir  John  H.  Leathers,  Chief  of  Division;  Sir  Knight  Ernest 
McPherson,  Chief  of  Staff.  The  following  Grand  Commanderies  and 
their  Subordinate  Commanderies:  Iowa,  Minnesota,  Kansas,  Maryland, 
Nebraska,  Arkansas,  West  Virginia,  Colorado,  North  Carolina,  South 
Dakota. 

EIGHTH    GRAND   DIVISION. 

R.  E.  Sir  J.  W.  Chamberlain,  Past  Grand  Commander  of  Minnesota, 
Chief  of  Division;  R.  E.  Sir  Benton  H.  Langley,  Chief  of  Staff.  The 
following  Grand  Commanderies  and  their  Subordinate  Commanderies: 
Oregon,  Washington,  Wyoming,  Montana,  North  Dakota,  Arizona, 
Florida,  Indian  Territory,  District  of  Columbia,  Oklahoma,  New  Mexico. 

NINTH  GRAND  DIVISION. 

E,  Sir  Thomas  B.  Hall,  Chief  of  Division;  Sir  Knight  John  W. 
Guthrie,  Chief  of  Staff.  Commanderies  Subordinate  to  the  Grand  Com- 
mandery of  California:  Sacramento,  Pacific,  El  Dorado,  Stockton. 

TENTH  GRAND  DIVISION. 

E.  Sir  William  D.  Stevens,  Grand  Junior  Warden  of  California, 
Chief  of  Division ;  Sir  Knight  Perry  Weidner,  Chief  of  Staff.  Com- 
manderies Subordinate  to  the  Grand  Commandery  of  California:  Los 
Angeles,  San  Jose,  Oakland. 

ELEVENTH    GRAND   DIVISION. 

E.  Sir  Joseph  C.  Campbell,  Chief  of  Division ;  Sir  Knight  William 
C.  Ralston,  Chief  of  Staff.  Commanderies  Subordinate  to  the  Grand 


KNIGHTS    TEMPLAR    PARADE. 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        177 

Commandery  of  California:  Naval,  Ventura,  Woodland,  St.  Bernard, 
San  Diego,  Visalia,  San  Luis  Obispo,  Riverside,  Fresno,  St.  Omar,  Pasa- 
dena, Eureka,  Lassen. 

TWELFTH  GRAND  DIVISION. 

E.  Sir  Hudson  B.  Gillis,  Grand  Senior  Warden  of  California,  Chief 
of  Division ;  Sir  Knight  Edwin  A.  Forbes,  Chief  of  Staff.  Commanderies 
Subordinate  to  the  Grand  Commandery  of  California :  Oroville,  Nevada, 
Marysville,  Chico,  Red  Bluff,  Watsonville,  Colusa,  Mt.  Shasta,  Santa 
Ana,  Southern  California,  Santa  Rosa,  Mt.  Olivet,  Ukiah,  Napa,  Vaca- 
ville,  Bakersfield,  Long  Beach. 

The  route  of  march  was  from  the  corner  of  Geary  and  Kearny 
streets;  along  Kearny  to  Pine  street;  along  Pine  to  Montgomery;  along 
Montgomery  to  Market;  along  Market  to  Van  Ness  avenue  and  along 
Van  Ness  avenue  to  Washington  street,  where  the  column  was  swung 
around  and  countermarched  over  the  same  route. 

The  officers  of  the  Encampment  and  Priory  continued  in  the  parade 
until  the  reviewing  stand  was  reached  at  the  top  of  the  hill,  at  Sutter 
street  and  Van  Ness  avenue,  where  they  took  seats  upon  the  platform  to 
view  the  splendid  line  of  march. 

On  every  street  over  which  the  march  was  made  the  curbs  were 
lined  with  spectators  ten  and  twelve  deep,  while  every  stairway,  window, 
and  in  many  instances,  roofs,  were  peopled.  The  grand  stands  were 
choked  with  humanity  and  the  police  were  compelled  to  check  the  surging 
masses.  The  people  were  as  enthusiastic  as  they  were  numerous,  swing- 
ing their  hats  and  shouting  as  the  thousands  of  swords  passed  by. 

From  windows  and  housetops,  in  the  wide  vicinity,  there  burst 
forth  a  snow-storm  of  waving  handkerchiefs,  and  the  wavers  mingled 
their  cheers  with  those  of  the  masses  below  as  the  gorgeously  costumed 
Knights  went  speeding  by. 

One  of  the  innovations  of  the  march  was  the  presence  of  a  number 
of  water-bottle  wagons,  which  deposited  syphons  of  Shasta  Spring  water 
along  the  entire  line  of  march  for  the  benefit  of  the  marchers,  who  were 
perceptibly  suffering  under  the  torrid  temperature  of  102  degrees.  These 
bottles  were  picked  up  during  the  march,  and  when  the  thirsty  Knight, 
(still  marching)  had  secured  what  drink  he  could,  the  bottle  was  set  on 
the  street  again  to  be  picked  up  by  the  next  sufferer,  or  the  water-bottle 
wagon. 

Glasses  were  dispensed  with,  of  course,  and  the  fraters  drank  from 
the  spout.  If  the  drinker  pressed  the  lever  too  hard,  a  stream  shot  forth 
well  calculated  to  drown  the  would-be  partaker.  Sir  C.  C.  Heckel  suc- 
ceeded in  getting  one  of  the  bottles  while  he  was  sweltering  under  a  brisk 
march  up  one  of  the  hills.  With  parched  tongue  and  open  mouth,  he 
aimed  the  syphon  spout  on  a  direct  line  with  his  throat.  Anxiety  over- 
US ) 


178        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

stepped  the  bounds  of  prudence,  for  he  pressed  the  lever  with  a  force  that 
not  only  immediately  enwrapped  him  in  a  most  complete  Shasta  shower 
bath,  but  the  inner  man  remained  as  dry  as  the  outer  man  had  become 
wet. 

One  of  the  sad  incidents  of  the  parade  took  the  form  in  the  death 
of  Sir  Knight  Joseph  Leath,  of  the  Grand  Commandery  of  Tennessee, 
while  he  was  performing  a  most  chivalrous  act  toward  a  brother  Sir 
Knight.  Sir  Leath  was  riding  in  a  carriage  at  the  head  of  the  Coeur  de 
Lion  Commandery,  and  while  passing  California  street  on  Van  Ness 
avenue,  he  noticed  an  old  friend  marching  in  the  parade  who  appeared 
to  be  staggering  from  exhaustion  and  overcome  by  the  heat.  Sir  Leath 
ordered  his  driver  to  stop  and  invited  the  weary  marcher  to  take  his  seat 
in  the  carriage.  As  the  gallant  Knight  stepped  down  from  the  carriage 
he  clasped  his  hands  to  his  heart  and  sank  to  the  ground  dead.  The 
kind  act  of  true  fraternal  fellowship  which  Sir  Leath  was  performing 
while  on  the  very  threshold  of  death  gave  a  rich  impressiveness  to  the 
sorrow  which  was  felt  and  expressed  over  his  death. 

When  the  grand  parade  of  the  morning  had  ended  and  luncheon  was 
over,  member?  of  the  Grand  Commandery  assembled  in  the  main  audi- 
torium of  Golden  Gate  Hall  to  transact  the  business  of  the  Triennial 
Session  of  the  Grand  Encampment.  The  entire  afternoon  was  con- 
sumed in  arranging  preliminary  details  for  the  session.  None  but  mem- 
bers of  the  Grand  Commandery  were  permitted  within  the  Auditorium, 
with  the  exception  of  a  few  who  were  given  privilege  to  hear  several 
of  the  speeches  from  the  gallery. 

Most  conspicuous  in  the  gathering  was  the  Earl  of  Euston  and  his 
staff,  who  occupied  places  on  the  platform  with  the  officers  of  the  Grand 
Commandery.  In  their  robes  of  scarlet  splendor  and  trimmings  of  ermine, 
the  English  delegation  presented  a  striking  feature  and  added  lustre  to 
the  setting  of  the  scene. 

E.  Sir  George  D.  Clark,  chairman  of  the  reception  committee,  and 
a  member  of  the  executive  committee  of  the  Conclave,  called  the  Com- 
mandery to  order,  and  introduced  Governor  George  C.  Pardee,  of  Cal- 
ifornia as  the  first  speaker.  He  gave  the  knights  the  liberty  of  the 
length  and  breadth  of  his  great  state,  and  told  of  the  accomplishments 
of  the  order.  Mayor  Schmitz  of  San  Francisco  extended  a  welcome 
on  behalf  of  the  city,  while  E.  Sir  Henry  D.  Loveland  extended  the 
hospitality  of  the  State  Commanderies.  He  was  followed  by  the  Most 
Eminent  Grand  Master  Sir  Henry  B.  Stoddard,  who  in  his  address 
introduced  the  Earl  of  Euston.  The  Earl  gave  a  short  response.  His 
manner  of  delivery,  full  of  enthusiasm,  carried  with  it  the  emotion  the 
speaker  felt  in  extending  his  thanks  for  the  welcome  accorded  him. 
His  voice,  though  full  and  strong,  seemed  to  tremble  under  the  weight 


of  his  words  as  he  told  of  the  accomplishment  of  the  Order  in  forming 
a  closer  alliance  between  the  nations  of  Great  Britain  and  America. 

The  session  then  launched  into  the  business  that  laid  before  it.  In 
addition  to  secret  proceedings,  the  only  business  done  was  the  appoint- 
ment of  committees  on  Credentials,  Work  of  the  Grand  Officers, 
Charter,  and  Dispensation. 

Mechanic's  Pavilion  was  a  haven  of  refuge  and  rest  for  many  of  the 
visitors  during  the  afternoon.  Its  decorations  of  foliage,  and  perfume 
from  the  redwood  boughs  were  cooling  and  invigorating.  Ice  cream 
and  mineral  water  booths  were  the  objects  of  unlimited  attention,  and 
Commanderies  showing  exhibits  of  agricultural  and  mineral  wealth  were 
magnets  of  interest. 

Thousands  crowded  Mechanics'  Pavilion  at  night  to  attend  the  re- 
ception given  in  honor  of  the  visiting  Sir  Knights.  Never  in  the  history 
of  the  structure  had  such  a  crowd  gathered  within  its  walls,  nor  was  such 
a  magnificent  scene  ever  witnessed.  All  the  splendor  of  the  trappings 
of  the  Sir  Knights,  and  the  dainty  raiment  of  the  ladies,  were  displayed 
as  the  great  promenade  proceeded  through  the  length  of  the  main  floor 
of  the  Pavilion.  A  conservative  estimate  placed  the  number  of  visitors 
at  over  30,000. 

The  Earl  of  Euston,  accompanied  by  his  staff,  were  the  guests 
of  the  Commanderies  quartered  in  the  Pavilion.  The  Earl's  arrival 
was  the  occasion  for  a  great  demonstration.  With  his  party  he  walked 
along  the  promenade,  while  the  band  played  English  popular  airs. 
After  a  half  hour,  the  Earl  and  his  party  returned  to  their  apartments. 
On  every  hand  the  local  Commanderies  showered  their  hospitality 
upon  the  visitors,  and  the  reception  proved  a  glorious  success  from 
every  standpoint. 

During  the  evening  a  promenade  concert  was  also  held  in  the  Nave 
of  the  Ferry  Building,  and  notwithstanding  the  crowds  at  the  Pavilion 
reception,  thousands  were  attracted  to  the  Ferry  Building  and  participated 
in  a  most  brilliant  function.  The  concert  was  made  the  occasion  for  an 
informal  reception  by  the  Sir  Knights  and  ladies  of  California  Com- 
manderies. The  view  the  Nave  offered  both  of  the  illuminated  city  and 
the  lighted  waters  of  San  Francisco  Bay,  studded  with  warships  and 
merchant  vessels,  made  the  event  especially  auspicious. 

It  was  a  tired  and  weary  regiment  of  pilgrims  that  sought  their  berths 
that  night.  The  long  march  in  the  magnificent  parade,  under  a  sun  that 
had  no  sympathy;  the  receptions,  promenades,  and  band  concerts  of  the 
evening,  (not  to  speak  of  the  many  other  private  and  public  functions), 
were  sufficient  to  test  the  most  strenuous  vitality,  and  we  slept  a  needed 
sleep. 


180        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

OTWITHSTANDING  the  activities  of  the  previous  day,  there 
was  a  brisk  effort  on  the  part  of  our  pilgrims  to  report  for  break- 
fast before  "Old  Sol"  had  raised  his  head  out  of  his  bed  in  the 
east.  Those  who  succeeded  in  rising  before  the  sun  had  cause  to 
rejoice,  for  the  torrid  heat  of  the  previous  day  was  continued.  "Old 
Sol"  again  proved  himself  to  be  the  most  distinguished  Knight  of  all,  and 
not  content  with  such  honors  as  32nd  and  33rd  degrees,  he  blazed  forth  in 
his  own  exclusiveness,  at  102  degrees  in  the  shade. 

It  seemed  as  if  there  was  no  end  of  pleasures,  amusements  and  di- 
versions as  one  glanced  at  the  interesting  program  for  the  day,  and 
considered  the  entertainment  already  provided.  Probably  the  most  im- 
portant event  scheduled  was  the  Competitive  Drill  for  prizes  which  was 
to  be  held  in  the  morning  in  Golden  Gate  Park.  Sessions  of  the 
Grand  Encampment,  bay  excursions,  receptions,  concerts  and  the  banquet 
to  the  Grand  Encampment  to  be  held  in  the  evening,  were  among  other 
features  of  the  day's  program. 

There  was  fully  25,000  people  gathered  on  the  sloping  lawns  sur- 
rounding the  ball  park  when  the  competitive  drill  began  at  10  o'clock. 
Four  corps  in  all,  competed.  The  trophies  were  perhaps  the  most  valu- 
able ever  offered  for  a  like  occasion.  Every  drill  corps  that  competed 
received  a  handsome  trophy,  and  its  Commandery  a  stand  of  colors. 

The  Louisville  Commandery  Drill  Corps  was  the  first  to  drill,  and 
headed  by  their  own  Commandery  band  playing  "Dixie"  and  led  by 
Captain  Frank  Fehr,  they  filed  into  the  inclosed  space  set  apart  for  the 
drill. 

After  a  turn  across  the  field  and  back,  the  Kentuckians  came  to 
attention  before  the  judges,  and  were  subjected  to  a  critical  inspection, 
after  which  the  tactics  as  laid  down  by  the  jurisdiction  of  California 
were  commenced.  Movements  in  the  school  of  Sir  Knight,  the  school 
of  Commandery,  and  the  manual  of  the  Sword,  were  gone  through. 

From  the  first  it  was  evident  that  the  Kentuckians  were  well  trained. 
Their  alignment  was  perfect;  the  movements  of  hands  and  feet  were 
as  one  man,  and  whenever  a  particularly  brilliant  movement  was  executed 
the  spectators  broke  into  round  after  round  of  cheers  and  applause. 

Thirty  minutes  were  allowed  each  corps  in  which  to  go  through  the 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        181 

schedule  of  movements  and  the  Louisville  Corps  finishing  in  ample 
time,  marched  off  the  field  to  the  melody  of  "My  Old  Kentucky  Home." 

The  Malta  Commandery  Corps  No.  21,  of  Binghamton,  N.  Y.,  was 
the  next  to  take  the  field.  A.  W.  T.  Black  commanded  the  corps. 
The  New  Yorkers  gave  a  fine  exhibition  of  drilling  but  were  slower  in 
execution  of  movements  than  was  the  Louisville  corps.  Before  the 
entire  schedule  could  be  completed  the  Malta  Corps  was  recalled  on 
account  of  the  expiration  of  the  time  limit. 

The  crack  St.  Bernard  Corps  of  Chicago  was  the  next  to  enter 
upon  the  field.  This  corps  had  won  the  championship  in  competitive 
drills  on  several  occasions,  and  was  looked  upon  as  well  nigh  invincible. 
They  were  received  with  tremendous  cheering  as  they  swung  into  the 
field,  headed  by  the  California  Commandery  band.  In  marked  con- 
trast to  the  long,  easy  strides,  and  apparent  ease  of  the  Louisville  Corps 
were  the  sharp,  quick  movements  of  the  Chicagoans.  The  St.  Bernard 
Sir  Knights  were  granted  a  special  dispensation  from  the  committee  to 
drill  according  to  their  own  tactics  in  several  of  the  required  maneuvers, 
while  the  balance  of  the  corps  were  compelled  to  use  the  Sumner  tactics. 
Some  thought  this  would  give  St.  Bernard  special  advantages  in  the  com- 
petition but  the  Kentuckians  gallantly  announced,  before  the  drill,  that 
they  would  abide  by  the  decision  of  the  judges  without  appeal. 

The  last  of  the  competitors  was  the  Ivanhoe  Commandery  Drill  Corps, 
No.  24,  of  Milwaukee,  commanded  by  Captain  D.  Milton  Jones.  They 
made  a  very  favorable  impression,  and  were  repeatedly  applauded  but 
their  work  was  not  quite  as  finished  as  that  of  the  Louisville  or  St. 
Bernard  Corps. 

Each  of  the  competing  corps  was  marked  on  the  basis  of  810  points 
— three  for  each  of  the  270  movements.  Every  one  of  the  movements  was 
closely  followed  and  the  markings  were  made  to  the  second  decimal 
point  with  the  final  result  as  follows :  Louisville,  779.54 ;  St.  Bernard, 
771.14;  Ivanhoe,  725.03  and  Malta,  655.82.  The  announcement  of  the 
judges  awarding  first  prize  to  the  Kentuckians  was  received  with  thun- 
derous applause  and  prolonged  cheers  and  the  Louisville  Corps  modestly 
received  the  honor.  During  the  interval  while  the  judges  were  deliberat- 
ing, the  corps  from  Golden  Gate  Commandery  and  Los  Angeles  Com- 
mandery gave  exhibitions  in  fancy  drilling.  Their  work  was  a  revelation 
to  the  gathered  Sir  Knights,  and  the  opinion  was  frequently  expressed 
that  the  winning  Kentuckians  will  be  compelled  to  look  to  their  laurels 
if  the  above  two  corps  enter  in  the  competition  at  the  next  Conclave. 
Besides  the  movements  of  the  regular  schedule,  a  number  of  fancy 
tactics  were  gone  through  and  were  heartily  applauded. 

Those  who  sought  the  bay  excursions  on  the  steamers  San  Pablo, 
Oakland  and  Tamalpais  during  the  morning,  found  a  delightful  diversion 
from  the  heat,  together  with  a  view  of  the  scenic  beauties  of  Golden  Gate 


182        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

harbor.  Others  participated  in  well  arranged  excursions  to  the  Cliff 
House,  Sutro  Heights,  Golden  Gate  Park  and  Ocean  Beach.  From  10 
o'clock  until  the  noon  hour  Red  Bluff  Commandery  No.  18  entertained 
the  visiting  Sir  Knights  and  their  ladies  at  the  Commandery  Head- 
quarters in  the  United  States  Hotel  and  proved  to  be  royal  hosts. 

Sessions  of  the  Grand  Encampment  were  held  morning  and  after- 
noon but  were  not  public  and  their  deliberations  and  action  on  various 
matters  were  reported  through  the  proper  channels. 

Receptions  and  entertainments  continued  unabated  during  the  after- 
noon. Among  hosts  were  the  Ladies'  Committee;  California  Com- 
mandery No.  i ;  Oakland  Commandery  No.  11 ;  Golden  Gate  Com- 
mandery No.  16;  Red  Bluff  Commandery  No.  18;  Woodland  Com- 
mandery No.  21  and  Fresno  Commandery  No.  29. 

With  the  ambitious  mercury  rising  above  the  100  mark,  it  was  de~ 
cided  by  a  party  of  our  pilgrims  to  do  the  sight-seeing  of  the  afternoon 
in  the  "poor  man's  automobile" — the  trolley  car. 

Boarding  a  car  in  front  of  the  Palace  Hotel  we  passed  through 
newspaper  row  and  the  business  section  of  the  city,  and  going  down 
Jackson  street  saw  the  handsome  Dewey  Monument,  erected  in  com- 
memoration of  the  notable  naval  victory  in  Manila  Bay.  In  the  same 
district  we  passed  numerous  old-time  mansions,  which  stood  as  memo- 
rials to  the  successful  in  the  strife  for  wealth  and  gold  in  the  early  days 
of  California,  when  San  Francisco  was  little  else  than  the  supply  sta- 
tion for  the  mining  camps.  Nob  Hill  is  the  name  of  the  district,  though 
Sir  Reel  insisted  on  pronouncing  it  with  an  "M"  instead  of  "N."  Sir 
Steinmiller  who  is  versed  in  ancient  history  explained  that  because 
the  community  was  rife  with  mansions  it  was  called  "Nobility  Hill" 
but  that  recent  generations  had  become  free  with  the  appellation  and 
used  only  the  first  syllable,  calling  it  Nob  Hill.  Northward,  Kearny 
street  with  the  leading  stores  extended  past  Telegraph  Hill,  rising  al- 
most 300  feet  and  giving  a  magnificent  view  from  the  summit. 

Fairmount  Hotel,  a  structure  of  beautiful  architectural  design  over- 
looks the  city  in  this  vicinity,  while  directly  opposite  we  observed  the 
Hopkins'  Institute  of  Art.  As  the  car  sped  along  a  beautiful  view  was 
unfolded.  From  below  the  eminence  upon  which  we  were  riding,  arose 
the  Hall  of  Justice,  its  clock  tower  almost  facing  us.  To  the  east  we 
could  view  the  Ferry  Depot  and  the  busy  harbor ;  almost  at  our  feet  lay 
Chinatown ;  a  little  beyond  were  the  crowded  streets  of  the  business  dis- 
trict, the  waterfront  with  swift  boats  furrowing  the  tranquil  waters  and 
the  fishing  smacks  coursing  the  bay  under  their  many-shaped  sails.  On 
the  opposite  shore  was  shown  a  fine  view  of  Oakland,  Alameda,  Berkeley 
and  the  University  of  California.  Midway  in  the  bay  could  be  seen  Al- 
catraz  Island  with  its  harbor  defenses  and  military  prison  and  Yerba 
Buena  Island  and  its  naval  training  school.  In  the  distance  this  interest- 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        183 

ing  panorama  was  set  off  by  Sausalito,  Point  Richmond  and  the  rising 
eminences  of  Mount  Tamalpais  and  Mount  Diablo. 

Striking  a  downward  grade  we  passed  through  a  residential  section 
of  latter-day  millionaires  and  reached  a  point  where  a  full  view  of  the 
Presidio  Government  Reservation  and  Fort  Mason  could  be  had.  Pass- 
ing Laurel  Hill  cemetery  we  entered  into  the  Richmond  district,  where  a 
view  of  the  ocean  shore  was  before  us,  while  to  the  right  the  Bay  of 
San  Francisco  was  still  in  sight.  Fort  Point,  the  Cliff  House,  and  the 
Seal  Rocks,  already  known  to  us,  were  again  seen  and  appreciated, 
while  Golden  Gate  Park  and  the  Government  Life  Saving  Station  were 
also  visited.  Before  returning  we  took  a  profitable  walk  through 
Sutro  Gardens,  a  beautiful  park  on  the  edge  of  the  ocean. 

Returning  by  another  route  we  passed  along  the  southern  boundary 
line  of  Golden  Gate  Park,  affording  rich  examples  of  artistic  landscape 
gardening.  We  passed  Strawberry  Hill  with  its  observatory — according 
to  Sir  Biddle's  explanation  the  observatory  was  erected  to  assist  in  lo- 
cating the  strawberries — while  in  the  same  vicinity  we  saw  the  Affiliated 
Colleges  of  the  State  University.  Passing  through  Ashbury  Heights  and 
by  Mount  Olympus,  we  glided  over  the  famous  switch-back  into  the  Mis- 
sion district,  riding  by  the  new  Mission  High  School,  and  the  famous  old 
Mission  Dolores  Church. 

Striking  the  home  stretch  of  our  tour  we  passed  the  magnificent  City 
Hall,  the  Hall  of  Records,  Mechanic's  Pavilion,  the  new  Postoffice,  In 
course  of  construction,  at  a  cost  of  $3,000,000,  and  the  monument  to  the 
discovery  of  gold  in  California.  We  reached  the  termination  of  our 
delightful  ride  after  passing  the  Academy  of  Sciences  and  Pioneer  Hall 
founded  by  philanthropist  James  Lick,  and  the  United  States  Mint,  the 
largest  in  the  world,  declared  by  Sir  William  G.  Lee  to  be  "the  greatest 
money-maker  on  earth."  After  the  eye  had  been  engaged  with  the  view 
of  San  Francisco  itself,  the  city  appears  to  be  built  in  terraced  rows  rising 
steeply  from  the  water-front.  It  is  rather  motley  in  architecture.  Low 
frame  buildings  were  at  first  the  rule,  partly  because  they  were  sufficient 
to  the  climate  and  partly  in  deference  to  traditions  of  earthquake ;  but 
at  length  builders  ventured  taller  structures,  of  brick  and  stone,  and 
every  year  many  lofty,  elegant  buildings  are  added.  Certainly  no  one  of 
them  has  been  shaken  down  as  yet,  and  possibly  the  architects  have  au- 
thority for  believing  that  even  Vulcan  is  superannuated  and  in  his  second 
childhood  is  appeased  with  a  rattle. 

It  is  a  city  of  fair  aspect — in  one  direction  undulating  from  the 
water's  edge,  in  another  rising  abruptly  to  the  precipitous  heights  of 
Telegraph  Hill. 

San  Francisco's  topography  is  such  as  to  display,  from  each  of  half 
a  hundred  vantage  points,  some  new  phases.  Then,  too,  most  of  the  treas- 
ures are  gathered  and  placed  for  the  visitor  rather  than  for  the  selfish 


184        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

pleasure  of  its  own  citizens.  In  the  magnificent  Union  Ferry  Depot 
(owned  by  the  state  of  California)  at  the  gates  of  the  city,  is  housed  the 
splendid  collection  of  the  State  Mining  Bureau  and  State  Board  of  Trade 
and  the  exhibit  of  curios  of  the  Alaska  Commercial  Company,  now  owned 
by  the  State  University. 

San  Francisco  is  a  city  richly  endowed  by  nature,  and  with  this  capi- 
tal, her  loyal  sons  and  daughters  have  wrought  greater  fortunes  of 
beauty,  architecturally  and  scenically.  With  her  natural  beauties  of  bay, 
ocean,  and  rugged  landscape  as  a  basis,  the  city  has  been  further  em- 
bellished by  the  hand  of  her  people  and  shekels  of  gold  wrought  from  out 
of  her  own  soil. 

Yet  the  city  is  not  one  of  special  architectural  merit  as  a  whole. 
Still  there  are  many  things  that  are  positively  unique  — not  because  of  age, 
nor  beauty,  nor  historical  association,  but  because  they  reflect  the  mode 
of  life  of  a  people,  some  of  whom  are  Americans  unlike  the  Americans 
of  most  other  states.  The  cosmopolitan  air  of  the  city  which  shelters  a 
population  drawn  from  every  corner  of  the  earth,  lends  a  peculiar  interest 
to  the  visitor  which  can  scarcely  be  found  elsewhere  than  in  Paris  or 
Gibraltar.  A  touch  of  the  Orient,  a  flavor  of  sunny  Spain,  a  smattering 
of  France,  a  touch  of  Italy  and  the  Mediterranian  in  the  quaint  fishing 
fleets,  a  breath  of  old  England  inspired  from  the  travelers  of  Australia 
who  always  rest  on  the  Pacific  shore,  a  trace  of  the  end  of  the  earth  from 
the  visitors  from  Alaska  and  the  Klondike  gold  fields  who  are  always 
present  in  large  numbers — these,  and  representatives  of  all  other  national- 
ities, lend  that  cosmopolitan  seasoning  which  is  so  delightfully  palatable 
to  all  visitors. 

San  Franciscans  are  a  pleasure  loving  people  devoting  their  leisure 
hours  in  enjoying  the  good  things  of  life.  They  are  liberal  patrons  of  art 
and  music,  and  lovers  of  nature. 

Though  little  more  than  a  half  century  old  as  a  city,  it  has  become  an 
ideal  commonwealth.  Its  commercial  enterprises  have  already  attained 
a  high  place  among  the  cities  of  the  nation.  One  of  the  most  notable 
of  the  city's  commercial  achievements  is  the  Union  Iron  Works,  a  famous 
shipbuilding  plant,  which  employs  4,000  men.  It  was  here  that  the  "Ore- 
gon," "Charleston,"  "Olympia,"  "San  Francisco,"  "Monterey,"  "Ohio," 
"Wisconsin,"  of  our  navy  were  built,  as  well  as  the  submarine  torpedo 
boat  destroyers  "Pike"  and  "Grampus."  At  the  time  of  the  Conclave 
there  were  10  organized  companies  operating  12  steamship  lines  between 
San  Francisco  and  foreign  countries,  exclusive  of  the  vessels  that  ply  be- 
tween Golden  Gate  and  the  Canadian  ports.  Supplies  are  sent  out  of 
San  Francisco  regularly  to  such  distant  points  as  Australia,  Oceanica, 
China,  Japan,  Phillipine  Islands,  Hawaii,  Borneo,  South  America,  Pan- 
ama and  Alaska.  The  natural  ocean  outlet,  provided  by  San  Francisco 
Bay,  has  built  up  the  shipping  trade  to  such  a  point  that  the  city  has  be» 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOI4DEN  GATE        185 

come  a  great  railway  terminal  for  transcontinental  freight,  in  both  ex- 
ports and  imports. 

For  years  San  Francisco  suffered  from  lack  of  manufacturing  indus- 
tries, due  in  great  measure  to  the  fact  that  it  could  not  provide  a  moderate 
priced  fuel.  In  recent  years  fuel  oil  has  been  discovered  in  great  quan- 
tities, and  this  is  already  solving  the  manufacturing  problem.  More  than 
half  the  steam  locomotives  in  the  state  are  so  constructed  as  to  use  this  oil 
for  fuel,  while  many  of  the  ocean  steamers  are  using  it  successfully.  An- 
other step  in  securing  cheap  power  has  been  taken  in  harnessing  the 
mountain  streams,  and  using  their  force  to  generate  electricity.  .Already 
the  most  important  of  these  mountain  waterways  are  under  control. 
Instead  of  gold,  which  in  the  early  days  was  the  ruler  of  the  destiny  of  the 
city  and  state,  commerce  is  king  today  and  the  populace  is  bowing  to  this 
regal  authority. 

Although  the  population  is  given  as  400,000,  the  city  has  an  enormous 
floating  population  which  it  is  difficult  to  estimate,  and  which  makes  it 
possible  to  presume  that  there  are  500,000  souls  within  the  city  most 
any  day.  Most  of  the  visitors,  and  for  that  matter,  a  great  proportion 
of  the  inhabitants,  live  on  the  European  plan.  They  engage  a  room  in  a 
hotel  or  boarding  house,  and  eat  whenever  and  wherever  their  fancy  dic- 
tates. It  is  a  city  of  restaurants,  which  are  as  various  in  price  as  they  are 
in  class  and  nationality.  Within  15  minutes  walk  through  the  heart  of 
the  city  one  may  encounter  American,  French,  Italian,  Mexican,  Spanish, 
Chinese,  Hungarian,  English  and  German  eating  houses,  and  while  they 
vary  in  quality  and  price,  the  field  is  so  thoroughly  covered  and  competi- 
tion so  keen,  that  go  where  one  will,  the  diner  can  secure  "value  received" 
in  the  restaurants  of  San  Francisco. 

The  city  is  blessed  with  surroundings  that  afford  visions  of  both 
mountain  and  sea  and  has  become  the  center  of  a  chain  of  suburbs,  some 
of  which  in  themselves  have  already  the  appearance  of  cities.  With 
its  beautiful  natural  harbor  and  ideal  location  at  the  gateway  into  the  Far 
East,  which  at  this  time  offers  so  much  promise,  and  from  its  position 
as  the  outlet  not  only  of  the  commerce  of  the  nation,  but  also  of  a  highly 
important  agricultural  and  fruit-growing  district,  San  Francisco  today 
stands  on  the  threshold  that  looks  into  greater  possibilities  and  gives 
more  encouragement  for  future  prosperity  than  many  other  cities,  of  rela- 
tive size,  in  the  land. 

Satisfying  our  appetites,  which  were  encouraged  by  the  car  rides 
and  sojourns  of  the  afternoon,  our  "happy  family"  of  pilgrims  became 
a  portion  of  the  inspiring  promenade  upon  the  gorgeously  illuminated 
thoroughfares,  in  search  of  some  of  the  pleasures  and  festivities  which 
the  evening  so  liberally  offered. 

A  notable  and  brilliant  reception  of  the  evening  was  given  by  Pitts- 


186        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

burgh  Commandery  No.  I,  in  the  Marble  Hall  and  Palm  Gardens  of  the 
Palace  Hotel.  So  popular  had  Pennsylvania  become  at  the  Conclave, 
that  from  8  o'clock  to  n  o'clock,  the  hours  set  in  which  to  receive,  a 
constant  stream  of  Sir  Knights  and  their  ladies,  from  all  sections  of  the 
country,  took  the  opportunity  to  pay  their  respects  to  the  "Smoky  City" 
delegation,  and  carried  with  them  souvenir  plates  as  a  lasting  remem- 
brance of  Pennsylvania  hospitality. 

Other  noteworthy  receptions  of  the  evening  were  those  conducted  by 
the  Ladies  of  the  Conclave  in  the  Palace  Hotel ;  California  Command- 
ery Night,  with  an  exhibition  drill  and  grand  ball  in  Mechanics'  Pavi- 
lion ;  reception  by  Oroville  Commandery  No.  5  in  Mechanics'  Pavilion; 
reception  by  Nevada  Commandery  No.  6  in  Mechanics'  Pavilion;  recep- 
tion by  Marysville  Commandery  No.  7  in  Mechanics'  Pavilion ;  recep- 
tion and  ball  by  Stockton  Commandery  No.  8  in  Lyric  Hall ;  reception 
by  Oakland  Commandery  No.  1 1  in  Native  Sons'  Hall ;  reception  by 
Golden  Gate  Commandery  No.  16  in  Golden  Gate  Hall ;  reception  by 
Naval  Commandery  No.  19  in  Lyric  Hall;  reception  by  Fresno  Com- 
mandery No.  29  in  Pythian  Castle ;  and  an  elaborate  reception  in  the 
Maple  Room  of  the  Palace  Hotel,  conducted  by  the  Grand  Command- 
ery of  Ohio,  in  honor  of  the  Most  Eminent  Grand  Master  of  the  United 
States,  and  representatives  of  Great  Britain  and  the  British  depend- 
encies and  to  the  members  of  the  Grand  Encampment  of  the  United 
States. 

In  fact  the  hospitality  was  so  general  and  generous,  and  the  recep- 
tions so  numerous,  that  Sir  Kreps,  who  is  an  authority  on  business  law, 
declared  that  the  bankruptcy  laws  of  California  must  be  most  liberal  in 
permitting  the  appointment  of  so  many  "receivers"  in  one  day. 

Probably  the  stellar  attraction  of  the  night  was  the  exquisite  offi- 
cial banquet  of  the  Conclave,  in  honor  of  the  Grand  Encampment  of  the 
United  States  held  in  the  spacious  dining  rooms  of  St.  Francis  Hotel. 
Earl  Euston  and  his  party  were  among  the  special  guests.  Four  hundred 
Sir  Knights  were  in  attendance. 

In  point  of  floral  decoration,  illumination,  and  detail  of  menu,  the 
banquet  was  admitted  to  have  been  one  of  the  finest  ever  held  in  the 
"Golden  Gate  City."  With  Sir  Reuben  H.  Lloyd  as  toastmaster  and  a 
staff  of  eloquent  speakers,  the  affair  terminated  in  a  sparkling  array  of 
pithy  comment,  appropriate  anecdotes,  sterling  examples  of  oratory,  and 
bright,  crisp  wit  and  lofty  humor. 

Earl  Euston,  when  called  upon,  graciously  responded,  and  declared 
that  he  and  the  members  of  his  party  did  not  have  words  to  express  their 
appreciation  for  the  kindness,  hospitality  and  brotherly  love  shown 
them  since  their  arrival  in  New  York. 

"I  live  for  peace  and  I  want  to  try  and  draw  the  people  of  our  dif- 
ferent lands  closer  together,"  continued  his  lordship.  "This  greeting 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        187 

will  always  be  a  green,  refreshing  memory.  England,  Wales,  Ireland 
and  Scotland  are  not  far  away  from  San  Francisco.  Come  over  the  her- 
ring pond  and  let  us  reciprocate  for  all  this  kindness.  All  we  ask  you  to 
do  is  to  pull  the  latchstring. 

"May  your  present  President  be  your  future  one,  and  help  cement  the 
bond  of  friendship  between  our  two  great  nations." 

Grand  Master  Stoddard  alluded  to  the  flag  that  is  buried.  He  meant 
the  Confederate  emblem  for  which  he  had  fought,  and  with  vehement 
gesture  and  pointing  to  the  Stars  and  Stripes  he  said : 

"This  is  our  only  emblem,  and  our  life's  blood  from  one  end  of  the 
land  to  the  other  is  pledged  for  its  integrity." 

His  auditors  rose  with  him  to  the  occasion,  and  there  was  a  tumultu- 
ous demonstration. 

"May  peace  be  our  heritage,"  continued  the  speaker,  "and  let  us  live 
up  to  the  ideals  of  Knight  Templarism,  the  fatherhood  of  God  and  the 
brotherhood  of  man." 

The  other  distinguished  speakers  were  C.  E.  Matier  and  A.  Woodi- 
wiss  of  Lord  Euston's  party,  V.  E.  Sir  H.  W.  Rugg,  V.  E.  Sir  W.  B. 
Melish;  General  J.  C.  Smith  of  Chicago,  and  Senator  Perkins  of  Cali- 
fornia 

While  hospitality  was  the  order  of  the  Conclave  on  all  sides  and 
from  every  source,  a  pleasing  example  of  good  will  and  kind  treatment 
to  brother  man  was  exemplified  by  the  Press  Club  of  San  Francisco,  which 
inaugurated  a  most  liberal  "open  door  policy"  to  the  Sir  Knights  and 
visiting  newspapermen. 

Early  in  the  day,  in  response  to  repeated  invitations,  a  number  of 
the  Allegheny  pilgrims  visited  the  handsome  and  exquisitely  comfortable 
quarters  of  the  association  of  newspaper  writers.  To  say  that  the  treat- 
ment afforded  was  most  hospitable  expresses  it  mildly,  and  when  the  pil- 
grims were  compelled  to  leave,  owing  to  the  many  pressing  engagements, 
which  they  were  in  duty  bound  to  respect,  the  leave-taking  was  only  made 
possible  upon  promise  to  return  later  in  the  evening,  and  share  in  the 
enjoyment  of  a  banquet  and  vaudeville  performance  which  the  club 
provided  upon  its  own  stage  and  in  its  own  auditorium,  in  which  pro- 
fessional talent  was  to  appear. 

Sir.  C.  H.  Wilson,  chairman  of  the  Press  Committee  of  the  Cub, 
greeted  us  warmly  and  offered  the  comfortable  and  handsomely  furnished 
rooms  to  our  disposal.  While  his  hospitality  was  unlimited,  it  must  be 
said  in  the  fullest  justice,  that  every  member  of  the  organization  whom 
it  was  our  good  fortune  to  meet,  exhibited  equal  kindness  to  our  pilgrims. 

The  members  of  our  party  were  deeply  impressed  with  the  cordiality 
of  the  San  Francisco  newspapermen;  while  we  found  the  newspapers 
themselves  as  modernly  equipped  and  well  conducted  as  any  that  exists 


188        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

in  other  metropolitan  cities.  They  print  the  news,  all  of  it,  and  they 
were  well  and  cleanly  edited. 

It  was  not  until  midnight  had  faded  into  the  early  hours  of  morn 
that  the  pilgrims  had  another  opportunity  to  even  recall  the  previous  en- 
gagement, and  in  respect  to  the  kindness  of  the  Press  Club  members, 
sought  their  headquarters,  if  for  no  other  reason,  than  to  offer  a  fitting 
apology. 

Even  at  that  late  hour  the  welcome  was  most  gracious.  The  per- 
formance had  long  been  concluded  and  to  the  startling  surprise  of  the 
visiting  pilgrims,  the  hosts  insisted  upon  receiving  our  delegates  in  the 
auditorium  and  giving  another  performance  for  our  special  benefit.  As 
the  majority  of  the  professional  talent  had  long  since  left  the  building, 
their  positions  on  the  program  were  taken  by  members  of  the  club  them- 
selves, who  offered  an  entertainment  that  can  in  truth  be  said  to  have 
equalled  that  of  any  professional  performance.  The  talent  of  the  per- 
formers was  remarkable,  and  after  enjoying  further  hospitality  in  the 
form  of  a  liberal  luncheon,  the  Allegheny  pilgrims  departed  with  the 
kindliest  remembrances  of  most  generous  hosts. 


CHAPTER  XX. 

HE  morning  found  no  abatement  of  the  oppressive  heat  which 
had  prevailed  for  the  past  few  days.     Californians  were  strictly 
on  the  defensive  in  sustaining  their  integrity,  having  previously 
and  repeatedly  informed  us  that  their  climate  knew  no  intense 
heat  nor  severe  cold. 

Californians,  in  offering  evidence  to  sustain  their  claims,  produced 
the  weather  records  for  the  past  10  years,  and  it  must  be  said  in  respect 
to  our  hosts,  that  the  register  failed  to  show  a  time  in  those  years  when 
the  thermometer  had  reached  such  ambitious  heights. 

The  program  for  the  day  was  as  diversified  and  offered  equal  interest 
to  those  of  the  previous  days.  In  the  morning  a  session  of  the  Grand  En- 
campment was  held  in  Golden  Gate  Hall  and  excursions  were  provided 
on  the  bay  and  to  the  Cliff  House,  Park,  Sutro  Heights,  Ocean 
Beach.  Another  session  of  the  Grand  Encampment  in  Golden  Gate  Hall 
was  scheduled  for  the  afternoon,  as  well  as  reception  and  entertainment 
by  Ladies'  Committee  at  the  Palace  Hotel;  Ladies'  reception  under 
auspices  of  California  Commandery  No.  i  in  Mechanics'  Pavilion;  re- 
ception by  Oakland  Commandery  No.  n  in  Native  Sons'  Hall;  reception 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        189 

by  Golden  Gate  Commandery  No.  16  in  the  Mark  Hopkins'  Institute  of 
Art ;  excursion  to  the  University  of  California,  Berkeley,  and  reception  by 
the  officers  of  the  University  to  visiting  Sir  Knights  and  ladies;  concert 
by  California  Glee  Club  and  university  orchestra  in  Greek  Theatre,  which 
seats  8,000  persons.  In  the  evening  the  Chinese  play  at  the  Grand  Opera 
House  was  to  be  repeated,  as  was  the  reception  and  entertainment  at 
the  Press  Club;  promenade  concert  in  the  Nave  of  the  Ferry  Building; 
reception  by  Ladies'  Committee  in  Palace  Hotel ;  reception  by  Cali- 
fornia Commandery  No.  i  in  Mechanics'  Pavilion ;  reception  by 
Ladies  of  Oakland  Commandery  No.  n  in  Nave  of  Ferry  Building; 
reception  by  Golden  Gate  Commandery  No.  16  in  Mark  Hopkins' 
Institute  of  Art  and  open-air  concert  in  Union  Square. 

A  day  filled  to  overflowing  with  engagements  stood  before  us.  En- 
gagements which  we  were  in  honor  and  duty  bound  to  respect.  It  was 
our  last  day  in  the  Conclave  city,  for  we  were  to  leave  in  the  morning. 
What  more  appropriate  program  could  we  have  selected  than  one  which 
provided  for  a  farewell  visit  to  the  many  Commandery  headquarters,  who 
were  ever  lavish  in  their  entertainment,  most  liberal  in  their  hospitality, 
and  found  honor  and  pleasure  in  greeting  a  brother. 

Commanderies  of  San  Francisco,  of  the  state  of  California,  and  visit- 
ing Commanderies  innumerable,  maintained  an  "open  house"  throughout 
the  entire  week,  and  from  the  kindly  spirit  and  generous  entertainment 
which  was  so  freely  shown  on  every  hand  it  was  our  duty  to  bid  farewell 
to  our  Sir  Knight  brothers  and  thank  them,  and  give  expression  of  our 
appreciation  for  their  hospitality,  in  words  and  by  the  clasp  of  the 
hand. 

It  would  be  a  hopeless  task  to  attempt  to  properly  describe  the  liberal 
hospitality  of  the  entertainers.  In  the  many  headquarters  scattered 
among  the  hotels,  halls,  and  the  Mechanics'  Pavilion,  a  reception  com- 
mittee was  almost  incessantly  in  waiting,  and  the  visitors  were  showered, 
not  only  with  kind  words,  warm  greetings  and  fraternal  affection,  but 
were  compelled  to  partake  of  sumptuous  refreshments  and  become  recipi- 
ents of  tokens  and  souvenirs  innumerable. 

The  products  of  nature  which  find  such  a  glorious  triumph  in  the 
soil  of  California,  were  appropriately  made  the  offering  of  the  Com- 
manderies of  that  state  to  their  visiting  brethren.  Grapes,  which  in  in- 
dividual size  and  cluster  had  never  been  seen  by  the  visitors,  were 
lavishly  dispensed.  Strawberries,  oranges,  plums,  apricots,  pears,  raisins, 
— fruits  and  flowers  of  every  growth — which  in  size  and  splendor  find  no 
description  elsewhere  but  in  the  accounts  of  the  ancient  land  of  Canaan, 
were  distributed  by  the  California  Commanderies.  California  Com- 
mandery No.  i  and  Golden  Gate  Commandery  No.  16  sent  a  wagon-load 
of  baskets,  containing  all  varieties  of  wine  and  fruits,  selected  from  the 


190        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

most  fancy  species,  to  our  headquarters,  where  every  member  of  our  party 
was  presented  with  an  individual  basket. 

Truly,  these  offerings  of  fruit  on  every  side  and  their  splendor, 
brought  to  our  minds,  with  renewed  force,  the  truth  and  appropriate- 
ness of  those  sterling  Biblical  axioms :  "For  by  thy  fruits  shall  I  know 
you"  and  "Such  as  I  have,  give  I  unto  thee."  In  the  full  ripeness  of  the 
fruit  we  recognized  the  maturity  of  the  hospitality  of  our  hosts ;  in  size, 
the  bigness  of  their  hearts ;  in  taste,  the  sweet  flavor  of  the  fraternal  af- 
fection; and  in  luscious  juice,  the  flow  of  that  spirit  of  charity,  benevo- 
lence and  hospitality  that  quenches  the  thirsty  in  life,  relieves  the  weary, 
and  removes  many  of  the  obstacles  in  the  pathway  to  eternity. 

Throughout  the  day  we  passed  from  one  Commandery  headquarters 
to  another,  unable  physically,  to  enjoy  the  fullness  of  their  hospitality,  but 
capable  in  spirit  to  find  mental  nourishment  in  their  sentiments  to  store 
away  in  our  hearts,  and  hang  upon  the  walls  of  memory,  and  offer  them, 
in  our  humble  way,  our  appreciation  and  extend  our  highest  respects. 

The  hearty  social  welcome  tendered  to  each  and  every  member  of  our 
party  made  us  feel  so  much  at  home  that  we  regretted  our  visit  had  not 
been  lengthened  to  as  many  days  and  weeks  as  there  were  hours.  We 
were  immediately  introduced,  and  soon  were  made  to  feel,  from  the 
general  warm-heartedness  and  sincere  greeting,  perfectly  at  ease  and 
acquainted, — no  half-way  meeting  and  greeting,  but  real,  true,  whole- 
souled  welcome. 

Reaching  the  various  headquarters  we  were  at  once  ushered  into  the 
banquet  hall.  Tables  were  profusely  bedecked  with  beautiful  baskets, 
pillars  and  columns  of  exquisite  cut  flowers,  which  filled  the  air  with  their 
perfume.  A  button-hole  bouquet,  prepared  by  the  ladies  of  the  re- 
ceiving Commanderies,  was  offered  every  visiting  Sir  Knight, — although 
in  the  course  of  the  day  the  bouquets  became  more  numerous  than  our 
button-holes.  Strewn  about  the  tables  were  all  the  delicacies  of  the 
season,  and  some  which  had  been  rushed  ahead  of  the  coming  season. 
It  can  in  truth  be  said  that  the  pilgrims  of  Allegheny  Commandery  did 
justice  to  all  things,  stood  by  their  post  nobly,  and  had  excellent  staying 
qualities. 

The  beautiful  and  graceful  attire  of  the  ladies  and  their  kindly  demo- 
cratic manner,  lent  additional  pleasures,  while  the  Sir  Knigfhts  were  as 
old-time  and  bosom  friends,  once  we  stepped  over  their  thresholds. 

The  days  so  spent  are  still  so  bright  in  memory  of  things  pleasant, 
that  they  will  ever  remain  to  us  full  of  delightful  remembrances  and 
pleasant  meetings.  The  warm  shake  of  the  right  hand  has  ever  left  the 
tinge  of  fraternal  greeting  and  brotherly  love,  and  the  friends  made  and 
won  on  that  last  day  at  the  Twenty-ninth  Triennial  Conclave  shall  ever 
be  remembered. 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        191 

Were  proper  space  devoted  to  the  merits  of  the  entertainment  provid- 
ed by  each  Commandery,  the  accounts  could  not  find  space  in  a  volume 
several  times  this  size.  The  attempt  to  do  justice  will  not,  nay,  could 
not — be  undertaken,  although  as  a  means  to  illustrate  the  many  kind- 
nesses showered  upon  us,  a  brief  mention  of  some  of  the  hosts  may  be 
permitted. 

California  Grand  Commandery,  aside  from  its  continual  lavish  enter- 
tainment, gave  away  as  souvenirs  thousands  of  dollars  worth  of  gold 
nuggets  and  specimens  of  ore  from  the  rich  mines  which  have  made  the 
state  famous. 

California  Commandery,  No.  I,  (with  21  other  Commanderies)  found 
quarters  in  the  enormous  Mechanics'  Pavilion,  on  this  occasion,  won  ad- 
ditional laurels,  fully  maintaining  her  enviable  reputation  for  generous 
and  liberal  entertainment,  overflowing  with  her  good  cheer  and  hospitality. 
It  maintained  a  band  of  40  pieces,  and  a  drum  and  bugle  corps  of  30 
pieces  during  the  Conclave. 

Golden  Gate  Commandery  No.  16,  entertained  gorgeously  in  its  own 
hall,  which  was  beautifully  decorated,  and  maintained  a  band  of  60  pieces. 
It  took  leading  parts  and  acquitted  itself  with  honor,  winning  plaudits 
from  the  assembled  thousands. 

Los  Angeles  Command ery,  No.  9,  exemplified  the  spirit  of  liberality 
for  which  the  west  is  famed,  and  with  the  representation  of  450  Sir 
Knights  and  ladies,  entered  upon  a  series  of  brilliant  social  functions 
and  generous  receptions  that  brought  it  priceless  prestige. 

Sacramento  Commandery  No.  2,  offered  Knightly  hospitality  in  its 
headquarters  in  Pioneer  Hall ;  it  was  accompanied  by  a  band  of  22  pieces, 
and  an  orchestra  of  10  pieces,  and  distributed  handsome  exchange  badges 
of  gold  ormolu,  richly  enameled. 

Pacific  Commandery  No.  3,  of  Sonora,  was  a  liberal  host  and  ex- 
hibited an  interesting  display  of  $40,000  worth  of  gold  specimens  from 
the  mines  of  Calavera  and  Tuolumne  counties.  El  Dorado  Commandery, 
No.  4,  whose  headquarters  were  in  Hotel  Fremont,  presented  each 
visitor  with  a  bottle  of  wine  and  basket  of  fruit  both  home  products. 
Oroville  Commandery,  No.  5,  kept  open  house  in  Mechanics'  Pavilion 
and  brought  with  it  tons  of  fresh  fruits  from  its  home  county.  Nevada 
Commandery,  No.  6,  of  Nevada  City,  Cal.,  entertained  in  Mechanics'  Pa- 
vilion. This  Commandery  represented  the  greatest  gold-producing  county 
in  the  state  and  had  a  magnificent  exhibition  of  gold  quartz  and  nuggets. 
Souvenir  boxes,  containing  gold  bearing  quartz  and  specimens  of  petri- 
fied wood,  were  presented  to  visitors 

San  Jose  Commandery,  No.  10,  representing  the  Santa  Clara  Valley, 
distributed  the  choicest  flowers  and  fruits  which  have  made  that  valley 
famous.  Red  Bluff  Commandery,  No.  17,  which  also  had  its  headquar- 


192        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

ters  in  Mechanics'  Pavilion,  offered  a  rich  exhibit  of  ore  and  fruits,  and 
entertained  with  Northern  California  Battalion.  Mount  Olivet  Com- 
mandery,  No.  20,  of  Petaluma,  also  stationed  in  the  Pavilion,  had  a  unique 
exhibit  representing  a  redwood  forest,  in  the  midst  of  which  was  shown  a 
tavern  wherein  the  Commandery  had  its  headquarters.  Watsonville 
Commandery,  No.  22,  also  quartered  in  the  Pavilion,  showered  visitors 
with  the  renown  Watsonville  strawberries,  cream  and  fruit  which  know 
no  equal  in  size  and  flavor.  Stockton  Commandery,  No.  8,  entertained 
on  an  elaborate  scale,  with  music,  dancing  and  souvenirs.  Fresno  Com- 
mandery, No.  29,  distributed  cartons  of  raisins  and  samples  of  Fresno's 
famous  wines.  Santa  Rosa  Commandery,  No.  14,  had  a  car  load  of  de- 
licious fruit  to  offer. 

Among  other  California  Commanderies  who  were  prominent  in  pro- 
viding entertainment  by  means  of  receptions,  concerts,  balls,  and  open- 
house  parties,  were:  Marysville,  No.  7;  Chico,  No.  12;  Lassen,  No.  13; 
Ventura,  No.  18 ;  Naval,  No.  19 ;  Woodland,  No.  21 ;  Saint  Bernard,  No. 
23 ;  Colusa,  No.  24 ;  San  Diego,  No.  25 ;  Visalia,  No.  26 ;  San  Luis  Obispo, 
No.  27;  Riverside,  No.  28;  St.  Omer,  No.  30;  Pasadena,  No.  31;  Mt. 
Shasta,  No.  32;  Ukiah,  No.  33;  Napa,  No.  34;  Eureka,  No.  35;  Santa 
Ana,  No.  36;  Southern  California,  No.  37;  Vacaville,  No.  38;  Bakers- 
ville,  No.  39;  Long  Beach,  No.  40. 

These  Commanderies  are  known  and  distinguished  wherever  the 
order  exists ;  and  today  there  is  nowhere  a  Commandery  more  renowned. 
They  have  a  national  reputation  for  character  of  work,  and  particularly 
for  general  and  liberal  hospitality ;  and  they  command  the  respect  of  every 
Commandery  in  the  land,  and  we  may  add,  of  the  entire  Fraternity  of 
Masons.  They  have  a  power  in  the  community  which  is  great  and  up- 
lifting. Their  pilgrimage  to  the  Twenty-seventh  Triennial  Conclave,  in 
our  own  city,  have  made  known  the  character  of  the  people,  the  products, 
the  advantages,  the  opportunities,  the  blessings  of  this  Golden  State,  in 
most  potent  and  beneficent  manner. 

Aside  from  those  mentioned  there  were  scores  of  other  Commander- 
ies from  within  and  without  the  state,  whose  liberality  was  boundless  and 
who  were  enthusiastic  exponents  of  the  "open  door"  policy.  All  the 
State  Grand  Commanderies  entertained  at  gorgeous  receptions  and  con- 
tinually offered  social  diversion  on  an  elaborate  scale. 

Appreciation  was  general,  among  the  visiting  and  resident  Sir 
Knights,  for  the  liberal  distribution  of  a  magnificent  souvenir  edition  of 
the  "Trestle  Board."  This  issue,  the  "Conclave  Number,"  was  offered  to 
every  Sir  Knight  gratuitously,  and  was  well  edited,  beautifully  illustrated, 
handsomely  bound,  and  rife  with  interesting  data  pertaining  to  Knight 
Templar  history. 

After  accomplishing  the  greatest  day's  work  of  the  Conclave,  the  busi- 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        193 

ness  sessions  of  the  Grand  Encampment  came  to  a  close  during  the  after- 
noon. The  announcement  was  made  that  the  next  Conclave  was  voted  to 
Saratoga  Springs,  N.  Y.,  to  begin  on  the  second  Tuesday  in  July,  1907. 
The  election  of  Grand  Officers  resulted  as  follows :  Most  Eminent  Grand 
Master,  Sir  George  M.  Moulton,  Chicago;  Deputy  Grand  Master,  Right 
Eminent  Sir  Henry  W.  Rugg,  Providence,  R.  I. ;  Grand  Generalissimo, 
Very  Eminent  Sir  William  B.  Melish,  Cincinnati;  Grand  Captain-Gen- 
eral, Very  Eminent  Sir  Frank  H.  Thomas,  Washington,  D.  C. ;  Grand 
Senior  Warden,  Very  Eminent  Sir  Arthur  Mac  Arthur,  Troy,  N.  Y. ; 
Grand  Junior  Warden,  Very  Eminent  Sir  W.  Frank  Pierce,  Oakland, 
Cal. ;  Grand  Treasurer,  Very  Eminent  Sir  H.  Wales,  Lines,  Meriden, 
Conn. ;  Grand  Recorder,  Very  Eminent  Sir  John  A.  Gerow,  Detroit,  Mich. 
Following  his  election,  the  Grand  Master  appointed  the  following  officers, 
who  were  installed  to  serve  under  him :  Grand  Prelate,  Very  Eminent 
Sir  W.  Worrall,  D.  D.,  Kentucky ;  Grand  Standard  Bearer,  Very  Eminent 
Sir  William  H.  Norris,  Iowa;  Grand  Sword  Bearer,  Very  Eminent  Sir 
Joseph  K.  Orr,  Georgia;  Grand  Warder,  Very  Eminent  Sir  Edward  W. 
Wellington,  Kansas;  Grand  Captain  of  the  Guard,  Very  Eminent  Sir 
J.  W.  Chamberlain,  Minnesota.  Other  important  business  was  trans- 
acted, but  its  nature  was  not  made  public. 

During  the  afternoon  not  less  than  5,000  Sir  Knights  and  their  ladies 
visited  the  University  of  California  in  Berkeley,  where  they  were  made 
the  guests  of  the  faculty  and  students  of  that  institution.  A  concert  and 
entertainment  was  given  in  the  Greek  Theatre  which  was  both  classic 
and  entertaining,  by  the  students  of  the  university.  After  a  complete  and 
interesting  inspection  of  the  institution  the  visitors  were  tendered  a  for- 
mal reception. 

One  of  the  most  brilliant  functions  of  the  Conclave  took  place  during 
the  afternoon  and  evening  in  the  Mark  Hopkins  Institute  of  Art,  under 
the  auspices  of  the  Ladies  of  Golden  Gate  Commandery,  No.  16,  which 
was  in  the  form  of  a  reception  to  the  New  Grand  Encampment  Officers. 
The  halls  and  galleries,  from  whose  walls  hung  the  canvas  of  old  and 
famous  masters,  were  illuminated  and  decorated  in  such  great  array  that 
they  blazed  forth  in  a  riot  of  splendor. 

The  beauty  and  handsome  attire  of  the  fair  women  and  the  gorgeous 
trappings  of  the  plumed  Sir  Knights  added  to  the  magnificent  grandeur 
and  general  elegance.  An  incessant  stream  of  visitors  presented  their 
invitations  at  the  door  and  entered  upon  the  gorgeous  parade  through  the 
halls  and  galleries. 

Entering  the  building,  the  visitors  were  received  by  the  wives  of  the 
Past  Commanders  of  Golden  Gate  Commandery,  No.  16.  Ladies  of  the 
Floor  Committee  then  ushered  the  visitors  through  the  entire  building, 
and  conducted  them  finally  to  the  main  dining  hall  in  the  basement,  where 
refreshments  were  served.  During  the  night  crowds  gathered  upon  the 
(13) 


194        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

lawn  and  were  entertained  with  an  open  air  concert ;  while  two  orchestras 
provided  music  for  those  within  the  mansion. 

When  the  hours  had  grown  small,  a  feeling  close  to  the  sentimental 
overcame  us  as  we  slowly  sought  our  way  to  the  hotel — for  it  was  the 
eve  of  our  departure.  We  were  in  full  realization  that  the  myriads  of 
electric  lights,  grouped  in  spectacular  array,  were  shining  upon  us  for  the 
last  time.  We  thought  of  our  leave-taking  on  the  morrow — the  severence 
from  the  joviality  and  happy  spirit  of  the  Conclave  and  the  thousands  that 
had  helped  and  participated  in  making  these  conditions  possible.  May 
their  course  ever  be  onward  and  upward.  "So  mote  it  be." 

It  was  not  with  light  step  that  we  sauntered  along  with  these  thoughts 
in  mind,  and  we  eagerly  sought  our  couches  to  dream  away,  if  possible, 
the  sadness  of  our  farewell. 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

HE  Chinese  elevator  man  at  the  hotel  was  a  very  busy  individual 
in  the  morning.  So  was  the  lady  manager  of  the  hostelry,  behind 
her  little  "punch-and-judy"  cabinet.  The  Japanese  bell  boy,  the 
Russian  engineer  and  the  Ethiopian  furnace  tender,  were  all  in  a 
high  state  of  action.  Not  a  nationality  on  the  hotel  force  was  inactive. 
For  the  pilgrims  of  Allegheny  Commandery  were  preparing  to  leave. 

The  Chinaman  and  Japanese  in  their  excitement  and  confusion,  be- 
came involved  in  a  flow  of  international  rhetoric  that  was  edifying,  to  say 
the  least.  The  elevator  man,  whose  purpose  in  life  was  to  elevate  human- 
ity and  place  it  on  a  higher  plane,  gave  an  exhibition  of  restlessness  and 
impatience  together  with  a  flow  of  speech,  that  was  startling. 

Final  attention  to  baggage,  settling  of  hotel  accounts,  a  word  of  di- 
rection to  give — these  and  many  other  things  engrossed  the  attention  of 
the  pilgrims,  until  all  were  ready  to  say  a  tearless  farewell  to  the  hotel. 

Once  on  the  outside  of  the  building,  and  face  to  face  with  the  Con- 
clave city  itself,  the  realization  of  our  leave-taking  dawned  upon  us  in 
its  most  impressive  form.  As  we  looked  into  the  streets,  Sir  Knights 
were  moving  about  in  preparation  for  the  pleasures  of  the  day,  which  we 
were  to  sacrifice ;  while  the  sleeping  skeletons  of  unlighted  electric-light 
bulbs,  spoke  mutely  of  the  glory  of  the  night  to  come. 

It  was  with  slow  and  measured  step  that  we  made  our  way  to  the  rail- 
road station.  We  knew  full  well  that  we  were  about  to  enter  upon  our 
homeward  flight.  To  turn  back,  after  realizing  our  fondest  hope  and 
expectancy,  in  meeting  friend,  brother  and  sister,  from  every  corner  of  the 
nation,  in  one  happy  band ;  under  the  skies  of  one  city,  and  in  a  spirit  of 
affection  and  happiness  which  had  swayed  the  Conclave  atmosphere  from 
end  to  end. 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        195 

From  all  corners  of  the  nation — yes,  even  from  other  nations — there 
came  pilgrims,  and  were  met  together.  Each  brother  had  vied  with  the 
other  in  making  his  neighbor  comfortable;  every  individual  and  every 
Commandery  had  become  a  decimal  of  the  unity  of  splendor,  good  cheer 
and  fraternal  fellowship — not  in  words  alone,  but  all  that  the  terms  imply 
— in  spirit  and  reality. 

As  we  walked  the  streets,  which  were  rapidly  becoming  more  and 
more  populated,  and  the  sun  rose  higher  and  higher  in  the  skies,  every 
scene  brought  its  reminder  of  some  pleasant  memory;  every  object  had  its 
recollection  of  some  pleasure  enjoyed.  Hand  in  hand,  heart  to  heart,  all 
had  worked  together  for  mutual  benefit,  and  the  happy  result  knew  no 
expression. 

California  had  been  a  royal  and  liberal  host.  San  Francisco  had 
been  extravagant  in  her  hospitality.  Fame  had  long  since  inscribed  both 
city  and  state  high  up  in  the  records  of  entertainers;  while  fortune  had 
laid  the  richest  products  of  the  earth  and  the  precious  metals  of  the  mines 
at  her  feet,  in  compensation  of  her  worth. 

Our  entertainment  had  been  planned  and  carried  out  on  a  magnificent 
scale;  festivities  knew  no  end,  and  hospitality  was  lavish.  Through  all 
this  munificent  abundance,  and  through  the  brilliancy  of  the  illuminations, 
decorations,  and  the  Knightly  attire,  there  shone  a  light  whose  radiance 
was  unconquerable,  whose  rays  penetrated  every  combating  brilliancy, 
whose  power  could  not  be  denied — the  light  that  signalled  from  heart  to 
heart,  that  made  fellow-beings  out  of  men,  that  made  brothers  out  of 
strangers,  that  gave  life  a  purpose,  and  which  showed  material  form  in 
the  seal  of  fraternity,  by  the  clasp  of  the  hand. 

The  city  still  entertained  these  dear  friends  whom  we  had  learned  to 
know  and  appreciate ;  and  with  suppressed  feelings  we  continued  our  way 
to  the  station.  We  had  gathered  on  the  very  edge  of  the  country,  and  had 
joined  hands  and  hearts  for  a  brief  week.  Physical  visions  may  depart — 
faces  may  melt  away  from  view,  and  even  from  mind — but  memories  live 
forever!  Recollections  survive  beyond  the  grave. 

Our  greeting  had  been  hearty  and  sincere,  our  leave-taking  a  regret 
to  all.  The  city  and  state  were  proud  of  the  honor  of  entertaining  the 
Sir  Knights  of  the  nation,  and  this  was  none  the  less  reciprocated  by  the 
visitors,  who  considered  it  a  privilege  to  meet  upon  the  golden  shores  of 
the  Pacific.  The  program  of  the  Conclave  entertainment  was  to  continue 
until  the  following  night,  and  we  were  almost  persuaded  to  break  our 
itinerary  so  as  to  enjoy  the  fullness  of  the  festivities.  This,  however, 
was  impossible.  We  finally  reached  the  Southern  Pacific  (Coast  Line) 
railroad  station,  where  at  9  o'clock,  our  train  was  to  leave  for  San  Jose. 

As  we  took  a  last  look,  from  the  station,  over  the  beautiful  panorama 
that  San  Francisco  offers,  and  saw  in  every  direction  some  color  or  dec- 
oration in  respect  to  the  Conclave,  the  visions  and  impressions  of  the 


196        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

past  week  again  sped  through  our  minds ;  we  lived  those  pleasant  hours 
over  again  in  so  many  seconds,  and  with  sad  hearts  we  departed  from  the 
Conclave  City  of  1904,  and  seeking  the  train  sheds,  came  upon  our  train 
— our  own  dear  "Allegheny  Special !" 

What  a  haven  of  rest  it  offered !  How  inviting  it  was  in  this  hour  of 
depression!  How  soothing  in  its  comforts,  and  how  dear  that  old  com- 
missary car  beckoned  and  welcomed  us  in  its  old  familiar  unpretentious 
manner!  It  was  like  stepping  from  the  Pacific  coast  into  home.  And 
it  was  "home" — for  wasn't  it  the  place  "where  we  used  to  live  ?" 

There  stood  "Woodzie,"  Johnston  and  the  grinning  porters,  glad  and 
anxious  to  receive  us.  It  was  like  meeting  an  old-time  friend  for  us  to 
greet  the  interior  of  our  "Special."  Every  seat  we  gazed  upon  seemed 
to  speak  out  some  pleasant  reminiscence.  Finally,  after  placing  our  hand 
baggage,  we  gathered  within  the  walls  of  the  dear  old  commissary  car, 
and  with  Johnston  as  a  most  agreeable  audience,  we  sang — we  sang  a 
fond  adieu  to  'Frisco  and  the  Twenty-ninth  Triennial  Conclave,  and  to  the 
hope  of  future  happiness  and  equal  pleasures,  such  as  we  had  enjoyed  on 
our  tour. 

Promptly  at  9  o'clock  we  moved  out  of  the  station  for  a  short  ride  to 
San  Jose,  passing  innumerable  small  but  interesting  towns  en  route,  and 
stopping  at  Burlingame,  San  Mateo,  Belmont,  Menlo  Park  and  Palo  Alto 
before  reaching  our  destination,  shortly  before  noon. 

The  route  lies  through  the  attractive  and  prolific  Santa  Clara  Valley, 
whose  heavy  laden  orchards,  beautiful  vineyards,  and  even  climate  the 
year  round,  have  given  it  universal  fame.  The  industries,  social  condi- 
tions and  natural  scenes  are  wholly  uneffected  by  the  slightest  touch  of 
the  commonplace,  and  as  charming  as  they  are  novel,  offer  a  rich  field 
for  study  and  enjoyment. 

Burlingame,  our  first  stop,  is  a  playground  for  San  Francisco's  most 
wealthy.  It  shelters  a  country  club  with  expansive  game  preserves,  and 
well-appointed  cottages,  and  is  the  scene  of  many  coaching  meets,  paper 
chases,  hunts  and  polo  games. 

San  Mateo,  older  and  more  sedate,  is  noted  for  its  educational  insti- 
tutions and  as  being  the  center  of  a  rich  and  prosperous  orchard  and 
vineyard  region.  Belmont  is  located  near  the  mountains,  whose  contigu- 
ous slopes,  heights  and  canyons,  afford  picturesque  sites  for  the  elegant 
country  homes,  which  comprise  the  town.  Menlo  Park  is  also  a  com- 
munity made  up  of  the  country  homes  of  rich  San  Francisco  citizens,  and 
has  been-  aided  in  its  natural  beauty  by  artificial  parks,  lawns  and  culti- 
vated grounds. 

Palo  Alto  or  "tall  tree,"  takes  its  name  from  a  redwood  tree  near  the 
railway,  and  is  located  in  a  wide-streching  forest  of  oaks,  which  was 
reared  largely  as  an  adjunct  to  the  noted  Leland  Stanford,  Jr.,  University. 
This  is  one  of  the  greatest  educational  endowments  in  America,  having 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        197 

a  fund  of  over  $30,000,000,  the  gift  of  Senator  and  Mrs.  Leland  Stan- 
ford, in  memory  of  their  only  son.  The  buildings,  in  a  manner,  repro- 
duce the  architecture  of  the  ancient  Spanish  Mission.  The  arrange- 
ment is  quadrangular;  the  inner  line  of  buildings  one  story,  and  the 
outer  two  stories  high,  inclose  a  vast  court  richly  ornamented  with 
statuary,  plants,  flowers  and  fountains. 

A  stately  arch  opens  into  the  court,  while  an  arcade,  one  mile  in 
length,  faces  the  court,  and  forms  a  continued  covered  passage-way 
entirely  around  it.  The  buildings  are  of  yellow  buff  sand-stone,  sur- 
mounted by  red-tiled  roofs,  and  this  color  combination  in  the  Moorish 
architectural  design,  picturesquely  contrasting  with  the  oaks  and 
eucalyptus  trees,  and  the  many  tropical  plants  gives  the  group  of 
buildings  an  interesting  Oriental  aspect.  The  Palo  Alto  estate  of 
8,000  acres,  is  one  of  the  great  California  stock-farms. 

In  the  center  of  Santa  Clara  Valley  nestles  the  city  of  San  Jose, 
called  the  "Garden  City"  for  its  profusion  of  flowers.  Though  but  50 
miles  from  San  Francisco,  the  climate  differs,  because  of  a  great  differ- 
ence in  topography.  In  summer,  San  Jose  is  free  from  the  fogs  and  winds 
of  San  Francisco,  while  in  the  winter,  instead  of  the  soft  balminess  of  the 
Golden  Gate  City,  the  air  of  San  Jose  has  a  frosty  touch.  Fruits  from 
the  rich  vineyards  and  great  apricot,  prune,  olive  and  almond  orchards  of 
the  valley  are  brought  into  San  Jose  for  shipment  and  distribution,  while 
the  city  is  the  center  in  the  production  of  prunes  and  cured  fruits. 

Three  miles  from  San  Jose  is  Santa  Clara,  the  two  being  connected 
by  the  famous  Alameda,  or  shaded  drive.  Alum  Rock,  a  noted  pleasure 
resort,  is  one  of  the  suburban  attractions  and  is  reached  by  a  six  mile  trol- 
ley ride. 

The  Calaveras  Mountains  are  to  the  eastward,  and  here,  on  the  apex 
of  Mount  Hamilton,  26  miles  southeast,  is  the  world-famed  Lick  Obser- 
vatory, at  4200  feet  elevation.  It  was  founded  by  a  legacy  of  $750,000 
left  by  James  Lick,  of  San  Francisco,  and  is  attached  to  the  University 
of  California,  being  among  the  leading  observatories  of  the  world.  It 
has  one  of  the  largest  and  most  powerful  refracting  telescopes  in  ex- 
istence; the  object  glass  being  36  inches  in  diameter.  Mr.  Lick  is 
buried  in  the  foundation  pier  of  the  great  telescope  which  he  erected. 

Not  alone  is  a  view  of  the  skies  through  this  monster  telescope  im- 
pressive, but  that  afforded  the  naked  eye  from  the  summit  of  the  mount 
is  one  of  the  most  expansive  imaginable.  The  Observatory  is  exceptionally 
well  located;  its  white  buildings  shining  in  the  sunlight  are  seen  from 
afar. 

Near  the  San  Jose  railroad  station  we  came  upon  an  opposition 
observatory,  conducted  by  a  traveling  astronomer  who  graciously  per- 
mitted the  public  to  peep  into  the  mysteries  of  the  skies  through  a  "short- 
sighted" telescope,  at  5  cents  a  peep.  Several  members  of  our  party 


198        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

peeped  through  the  glass.  Sir  David  claimed  he  had  discovered  another 
Conclave  in  the  metropolis  of  the  sun,  on  a  spot  where  that  orb  seemed 
to  shine  the  brightest. 

Sir  Sample,  who  is  a  student  of  the  sciences,  asked  whether  Saturn, 
or  Lillian  Russell  was  the  greatest  star,  but  the  astronomer  was  forced 
to  admit  that  the  full  records  of  both  were  not  at  hand.  Schwerd 
then  pointed  the  telescope  eastward,  in  an  effort  to  learn  if  everything 
was  all  right  at  home ;  he  declared  that  the  glass  was  not  sufficiently  pow- 
erful to  penetrate  the  Rocky  Mountains.  Besides,  he  said,  the  wind  was 
"agin  him."  He  felt  sure,  however,  that  he  could  see  the  smoke. 

"The  sun  cannot  be  examined  through  an  ordinary  telescope  with 
impunity,"  explained  Sir  David  to  the  other  sky-students.  "I  know  of  one 
man  who  tried  it  and  he  is  now  wearing  a  glass  eye  that  cost  him  $7.00." 

"There  are  many  theories  regarding  the  black  spots,"  announced  Sir 
Sample,  "authorities  differ  on  their  solution.  My  theory  is,  that  they 
either  represent  open-air  caucauses  of  the  colored  race,  or  coal  mines. 
However,  if  I  could  get  a  little  closer  to  it,  I  might  speak  more  definitely." 

"The  sun  gives  indication  of  endorsing  American  patriotism,"  de- 
clared Schwerd,  "for  it  is  like  the  'Star  Spangled  Banner.'  'By  the 
dawn's  early  light,'  and  the  moon  'is  a  proof  through  the  night,'  that  'it 
is  still  there.'  " 

"It  is  said,"  he  continued,  "that  the  luminous  body  is  92,000,000 
miles  from  McKees  Rocks — although  there  were  mornings  last  winter 
that  made  it  seem  further  away  than  that.  I  understand  that  the  direct 
road  is  paved  and  sewered  all  the  way,  and  lined  with  cement  pavements 
and  shade  trees — but  do  not  misunderstand  me !  There  are  no  plan  of  lots 
for  sale !  You  may  therefore  gaze  upon  it  with  the  assurance  that  no  one 
will  try  to  force  an  'easy-weekly-payment'  scheme  upon  you." 

During  the  afternoon  we  took  a  pleasant  six  mile  trolley  ride  to  Alum 
Rock.  While  prospecting  in  the  vicinity  Sirs  Gilchrist,  Sample  and  Wat- 
son reported  that  they  found  a  fallen  meteor,  weighing  20  tons.  Ordi- 
narily, the  action  of  alum  water  is  to  contract,  even  the  truth — but 
that  is  getting  away  from  the  story.  The  veracity  of  the  discoverers 
was  never  questioned,  although  Sir  Greenawalt  would  not  under- 
stand how  the  three  explorers  managed  to  weigh  the  20  ton  meteor, 
having  no  scales  in  their  possession. 

Returning  to  San  Jose,  we  visited  the  city  jail  (solely  a  voluntary 
act).  The  prisoners  were  in  plain  view,  being  separated  only  by  bars. 
Most  of  the  inmates  were  dejected  objects  of  humanity,  gathered  up  in 
the  walks  of  life — walks  along  the  railroad  tracks.  Nearly  all  were 
tramps,  and  like  other  "natural  products,"  there  is  a  heavy  crop  through 
the  agricultural  districts  of  California.  San  Jose  is  not  only  a  great 
center  for  the  curing  of  fruits,  but  for  the  curing  of  tramps  as  well. 
Hence  the  jail  and  the  patronage. 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        199 

Across  the  Coast  Range  or  mountains,  eastward  from  San  Jose,  is 
the  extensive  San  Joaquin  Valley,  noted  as  the  "granary  of  California," 
200  miles  long  and  30  to  70  miles  wide,  between  the  mountain  ranges. 
It  produces  almost  limitless  crops  of  grain,  fruits  and  wines.  Through 
this  great  valley  San  Joaquin  River  flows  northward,  and  the  Sacramento 
River  southward,  in  another  valley  as  spacious,  and  uniting  they  go  out 
westward  to  San  Francisco  Bay.  We  were  told  that  in  the  days  when 
the  earth  was  forming,  the  sea  waves  beat  against  the  slopes  of  Sierra 
Nevada,  but  ultimately  the  waters  receded,  leaving  the  floor  of  this  vast 
valley  of  central  California  stretching  nearly  500  miles  between  the 
mountain  ranges. 

The  first  comers  among  the  white  men  dug  gold  out  of  its  soil,  but 
now  they  also  get  an  enormous  revenue  from  the  prolific  crops.  Railways 
traverse  it  in  all  directions.  The  chief  city  is  Stockton,  at  the  head  of 
navigation  on  the  San  Joaquin,  a  town  of  25,000  people,  having  numerous 
factories.  Here,  in  the  slopes  and  gulches  of  the  Sierras,  stretching  far 
away,  were  the  first  gold-mines  of  California,  when  the  discoveries  of  the 
"Forty-niners"  set  the  world  agog.  At  Jackson,  was  tapped  the  famous 
"Mother  Lode,"  the  most  continuous  and  richest  of  the  three  gold  belts 
extending  along  the  slopes  of  the  Sierras,  and  so-called  by  the  early  miners 
because  they  regarded  it  as  the  parent  source  of  all  gold  found  in  the 
placers.  This  lode  is  in  some  parts  a  mile  wide,  and  extends  a  hundred 
miles,  being  here  a  series  of  parallel  fissures  filled  with  gold-bearing 
quartz-veins  while  farther  south  they  unite  in  a  single  enormous  fissure. 
The  mineral  belts  paralleling  it  on  both  sides  are  rich  in  copper  and  gold. 
The  country  all  about  is  a  mining  region  with  prolific  "diggings"  every- 
where, and  smoke  arising  from  the  stampmills  at  work  reducing  the 
ores.  There  is  Tuttletown  and  Jackass  Hill,  the  home  of  "Truthful 
James,"  and  the  localities  made  familiar  by  Bret  Harte  and  Mark 
Twain.  There  is  Carson  Hill,  here  having  been  picked  up  on  its  sum- 
mit the  largest  gold-nugget  ever  found  in  California,  worth  $47,000. 
As  the  San  Joaquin  Valley  is  ascended,  it  develops  its  wealth  of  grain- 
fields,  orchards  and  vineyards  and  displays  the  grand  systems  of  irriga- 
tion, which  has  contributed  to  produce  so  much  fertility. 

Eastward  from  San  Joaquin  Valley  are  the  famous  groves  of  Big 
Trees,  the  gigantic  sequoias,  which  Emerson  has  appropriately  called  the 
"Plantations  of  God."  There  are  two  forests  of  giants  in  Calaveras  and 
Mariposa  counties  displaying  these  enormous  trees,  of  which  it  is  sig- 
nificantly said  that  some  were  growing  when  Christ  was  upon  earth.  The 
Calaveras  Grove,  the  northermost,  is  at  an  elevation  of  4,700  feet  above 
the  sea,  upon  a  tract  about  two-thirds  of  a  mile  long  and  200  feet  wide, 
there  being  a  hundred  large  trees  and  many  smaller.  The  tallest  tree 
standing  is  the  "Keystone  State,"  325  feet  high  and  45  feet  in  circum- 


200        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

ference.  The  "Mother  of  the  Forest,"  denuded  of  its  bark,  is  315  feet 
high  and  61  feet  girth,  while  the  "Father  of  the  Forest,"  the  biggest  of  all 
is  prostrate,  and  measures  112  feet  in  circumference.  There  are  two 
trees  300  feet  high,  and  many  exceeding  250  feet,  the  bark  sometimes 
being  a  foot  and  a  half  thick.  This  grove,  however,  being  less  conven- 
ient, is  not  so  much  visited  as  the  Mariposa  Grove  to  the  southward.  It 
is  in  Mariposa  (the  butterfly)  county,  at  6,500  feet  elevation,  and  near 
the  Yosemite  Valley.  The  tract  of  four  square  miles  is  a  State  Park, 
there  being  two  distinct  forests  a  half-mile  apart.  The  lower  grove  has 
a  hundred  fine  trees,  the  largest  being  the  "Grizzly  Giant,"  of  94  feet  cir- 
cumference and  31  feet  diameter,  the  main  limb,  at  200  feet  elevation, 
being  over  six  feet  in  diameter.  The  upper  grove  contains  360  trees,  and 
the  road  between  the  groves  is  tunnelled  directly  through  one  of  them, 
which  is  27  feet  in  diameter.  Through  this  living  tree,  named  "Wawona/ 
the  stage-coach  drives  in  a  passage  nearly  ten  feet  wide.  These  trees 
are  not  so  high  as  in  Calaveras  Grove,  but  they  are  usually  of  larger 
girth.  The  tallest  is  272  feet,  ten  exceed  250  feet,  and  three  are  over  90 
feet  in  circumference,  while  20  are  over  60  feet.  Many  of  the  finest 
have  been  marred  by  fires.  There  are  eight  groves  of  these  Big  Trees 
in  California,  these  being  the  chief. 

Into  the  San  Joaquin  flows  Merced  River,  coming  from  the  eastward 
down  out  of  the  Sierras  through  the  famous  Yosemite  Valley. 

The  high  Sierras  have  been  termed  the  American  Alps,  and  merit 
the  appellation.  Here  are  snowy  peaks  that  meet  the  sky  along  a  thousand 
miles  of  the  California  border,  and  crowning  all,  Mount  Whitney,  the 
loftiest  peak  in  the  United  States. 

There  are  in  this  Sierra  region  mighty  evergreen  forests,  groves  of 
the  greatest  and  grandest  trees  in  the  world,  the  Canyons  of  Kings  and 
Kern  Rivers,  Lassen  Buttes,  the  Minarets,  and  numerous  other  wonders. 
Among  them  all,  however,  Yosemite  is  the  best  known.  It  lies  due  east  of 
San  Francisco  at  an  elevation  of  4,000  feet,  and  is  reached  from  Merced 
(a  town  on  the  Santa  Fe  in  the  San  Joaquin  Valley)  by  stage  ride  of 
about  90  miles.  The  way  is  by  Merced  Falls,  the  picturesque  old-time 
mining  town  of  Coulterville  and  the  Merced  Grove  of  Big  Trees.  The 
monster  trees  are  from  25  to  30  feet  in  diameter  at  base  and  are  of  fabu- 
lous age. 

The  floor  is  a  parklike  tract  about  eight  miles  long  by  half  a  mile  to 
a  mile  wide.  The  Merced  River  frolics  its  way  through  this  mountain 
glade  and  around  its  imperious  walls  thousands  of  feet  high. 

As  you  enter,  mighty  El  Capitan  rears  its  monumental  form  3,200 
feet  at  your  right.  It  is  a  solid  mass  of  granite  taller  than  the  valley  is 
wide  at  this  point  and  presenting  two  perpendicular  faces.  On  the  other 
hand  Bridal  Veil  Fall  is  flinging  cascades  of  lacelike  delicacy  from  a 
height  of  950  feet,  and  in  the  far  distance  you  catch  a  glimpse  of  the 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 


201 


famed  Half  Dome,  Washington  Columns  and  the  crests  of  the  highest 
peaks  in  the  range. 

The  road  leads  on  beyond  Cathedral  Spires,  Three  Brothers  and 
Sentinel  Rock,  the  valley  widens  and  Yosemite  Falls  appear,  with  the 
Sentinel  Hotel  and  the  little  village  at  the  stage  terminus,  midway  between 
the  falls  and  Glacier  Point  opposite. 

Beyond  Glacier  Point  the  valley  angles  sharply,  and  in  the  recess  thus 
formed  Vernal,  Nevada,  and  Illiloutte  Falls,  Liberty  Cap  and  Mount 
Broderfck  are  located,  but  are  not  visible  from  the  hotel. 


Looking  east,  Half  Dome  presents  an  almost  perpendicular  wall; 
at  its  base  is  Mirror  Lake,  and,  opposite,  North  Dome  and  Washington 
Arches.  The  peak  of  Half  Dome  is  4,737  feet  above  the  valley  floor,  and 
8,737  feet  above  the  sea. 

The  roads  and  trails  have  been  constructed  by  and  have  heretofore 
been  kept  in  repair  by  the  state.  The  entire  Yosemite  National  Park  is 
now  under  control  of  the  United  States  Government. 

You  may  visit  both  the  base  and  the  lip  of  Nevada  Falls,  poise  in 
mid-air  from  the  overhanging  rock  at  Glacier  Point,  gaze  4,000  feet 
below  from  a  parapet  of  Three  Brothers  or  off  to  the  wilderness  of 
peaks  that  lose  themselves  in  the  sky  to  the  eastward ;  or  you  may  pitch 
pebbles  into  the  gushing  torrent  of  Yosemite  Falls  where  it  makes  its 
dizzy  leap  over  the  cliff. 


202        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

The  glory  of  Yosemite  has  passed  into  literature.  It  lends  to  word- 
painting  as  do  but  few  of  Nature's  masterpieces.  Only  for  those  who  have 
seen,  can  the  name  conjure  up  visions  of  a  waterfall  of  filmy  tracery  that 
bends  and  sways  in  the  breeze,  of  a  gigantic  cliff  that  stands  at  the  portal 
a  colossal  greeting  and  farewell,  of  another  fall  whose  waters  plunge  from 
a  height  a  half  mile  above  you. 

It  were  idle  to  enumerate.  No  single  feature  wins  admiration.  It 
is  the  harmonious  whole,  blending  majesty  with  color,  form  and  action, 
that  wooes  all  our  senses  with  siren  touch.  It  is  not  a  matter  of  height  or 
breadth  or  mere  bigness.  The  Grand  Canyon  of  Arizona  outclasses  Yose- 
mite a  hundred  times  over  in  greatness  and  other-worldness.  But  here 
Nature  is  truly  feminine ;  she  is  tender,  gracious  and  becomingly  gowned ; 
she  puts  on  little  airs ;  she  is  in  the  mood  of  comradeship.  For  here  are 
found  song  birds,  gorgeous  wild  flowers,  rippling  streams,  grassy  parks 
and  bowers  of  shrubbery  and  ferns.  These,  quite  as  much  as  the  beetling 
crag  or  stupendous  waterfall,  are  the  secret  of  Yosemite's  hold  on  the 
imagination.  It  is  this  sense  of  the  supremely  beautiful  incarnated  which 
makes  the  Yosemite. 

After  a  brief  expedition  through  the  principal  streets  of  San  Jose 
and  a  visitation  to  the  fruit  curing  establishments  we  were  ready  to  de- 
part. Reaching  the  station,  we  abandoned  our  "Special"  for  a  time,  and 
boarded  a  train  on  the  narrow  gauge  railroad,  bound  for  "Big  Trees" 
station  28  miles  distant. 

For  several  miles  out  of  San  Jose  we  passed  through  a  succession  of 
apricot,  prune,  and  almond  orchards;  while  fruits  of  all  kinds  abounded 
on  every  side.  At  Los  Gatos  we  entered  the  Santa  Cruz  Mountains,  and 
the  magnificent  forests  of  California  were  upon  us.  Redwoods,  oak, 
madrones,  laurel  and  pines  blanket  the  slopes  and  crown  the  summits. 
The  trees  are  magnificent  and  majestic,  and  yet  this  is  not  the  only 
section  whose  trees  have  made  California  a  household  word — the  big 
tree  groves  of  California  are  scattered  throughout  the  forest  reserves 
and  many  national  parks  of  the  Sierras. 

It  was  early  in  the  evening  when  we  arrived  at  "Big  Tree"  station 
and  with  the  knowledge  that  we  had  but  a  short  time  to  stay,  the  pilgrims 
made  a  rush  for  the  Big  Tree  grove.  We  were  surprised  to  find  the 
"giants"  corraled  within  a  high  fence,  while  an  industrious  young  man 
was  anxiously  awaiting  us  at  the  gate  with  outstretched  hand1 — to  get 
some  of  our  money.  This  came  as  a  surprise  to  us,  inasmuch  as  no  ad- 
mission charge  is  made  at  any  of  the  other  parks  throughout  the  state. 
Meeting  the  "holdup"  agreeably,  we  entered  the  grove  and  began  hurry- 
ing through  as  many  of  the  redwoods  as  our  scant  time  allowance 
would  permit. 

A  most  impressive  sight  is  offered  to  the  eye  and  soul  by  these 
monster  trees,  huddled  together  within  the  confines  of  this  2O-acre  grove. 


YOSEMITE    VALLEY-BIG    TREE    GROVES-SAN    JOSE,    CALIFORNIA. 

T — Overhanging  Rock,  Yosemite  Valley.  2 — Merced  River,  in  the  Yosemite  Valley.  3 — Yosemite  Valley.  4— Yosemite  Falls,  s  — 
Entrance  to  the  Yosemite  Valley.  6 — Washington  Column  and  Dome,  Yosemite  Valley.  7-8-3-10-11-12-13 — The  California  Big  Trees. 
14— Memorial  Chapel.  Leland  Stanford  Jr.  University.  Cal.  15— Lick  Observatory  in  Winter,  Mt.  Hamilton,  Cal.  16—  Leland  Stanford 
University,  in  Santa  Clara  County.  17 — San  Jose,  Cal.  18-19-20 — Mount  Hamilton  and  the  Lick  Observatory.  21 — Alum  Rock  Park, 
San  Jose,  Cal.  22-23-24-25-26-27 — Scenes  at  San  Jose,  Cal. 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        203 

Trees  10  to  20  feet  in  diameter  are  plentiful,  and  all  tower  into  the  very 
skies,  hundreds  of  feet  above.  Doorways  and  driveways  had  in  many 
instances  been  cut  through  the  base  of  the  trees,  but  these  niches  in  no 
wise  impeded  their  growth  or  verdure.  One  particularly  massive  tree 
had  been  hollowed  out,  and  bore  doors  and  windows,  giving  evidence 
that  it  was  once  inhabited,  and  a  legend  says  that  a  child  was  bora  within 
its  trunk.  The  whole  grove  was  Fremont's  old  camping-ground,  during 
the  Mexican  war. 

During  the  little  while  it  was  our  privilege  to  remain  in  the  grove, 
the  beauty,  grandeur  and  wonder  of  the  scene  was  most  impressive.  The 
long  aisles  of  stately  columns  rising  straight  and  true  to  dizzy  heights, 
and  losing  themselves  in  their  crown  of  misty  foliage,  with  only  the 
flickering  light  of  the  sky  separating  one  column  from  the  other,  was  a 
sight  more  beautiful  than  can  be  conceived.  There  is  no  grander  sunlight 
than  the  sunlight  which  plays  through  these  massive  redwoods,  cedars 
and  pines.  No  sky  seemed  so  beautiful  as  the  sky  that  glistened  here 
and  there  between  the  broad  trunks,  of  this  large,  overgrown  family. 

Few,  if  any,  of  the  trees  bore  branches  or  boughs  until  they  attained 
a  height  of  100  feet  or  more.  They  seem  to  concentrate  their  efforts  in 
growing  straight  and  upright  lives,  ever  heavenward,  and  then  in  mighty 
and  final  effort  throw  out  their  arms  in  homage  to  their  Maker.  One 
cannot,  with  any  degree  of  justice,  describe  these  noble  woods.  Nor  can 
one  properly  acknowledge  by  word,  the  feeling  that  inspires  the  onlooker. 
A  deep  sense  of  contentment  interblends  with  one  of  buoyancy  and 
boyish  gladness,  while  withall,  a  feeling  of  remoteness  and  isolation 
from  the  work-day  world  pervades  the  mind. 

As  one  stands  within  the  rich  cathedral  gloom,  cast  by  the  shadows 
of  these  massive  steeples,  the  mind  reflects  upon  the  dignity  and  meaning 
of  it  all.  For  these  trees  are  the  oldest  living  things  on  earth!  Their 
records,  which  they  themselves  inscribe  from  year  to  year,  around  their 
hearts,  prove  them  to  be  centuries,  yea,  thousands  of  years  old.  How 
often  have  they  been  used  as  an  altar  to  their  Maker ;  how  many  human 
generations  have,  under  their  shady  branches  differently  pronounced'  the 
name  of  God,  but  who  recognized  him  everywhere  in  His  works,  and 
adored  Him  in  His  manifestations.  They  stood  to  witness  the  birth  of 
Christ;  they  have  seen  nations  rise  and  fall;  they  have  known  races  of 
which  we  have  never  learned ;  they  have  heard  the  chanting  and  prayer 
of  religious  creeds  innumerable,  and  in  their  great,  deep  and  unbreakable 
silence,  keep  their  secrets  well. 

The  most  weird  and  enchanting  effect  is  that  produced  by  the 
diffused  light  of  the  late  afternoon  sun,  when  no  ray  is  strong  enough  to 
pierce  the  heavy  foliage.    The  diffused  light,  in  its  effort  to  gain  admis- 
sion, takes  color  from  the  moss  and  leaves,  and  enters  the  forest  like 
faint,  green-tinted  mist  and  spreads  the  theatrical  fire  of  a  fairyland.    The 


204        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

suggestion  of  mystery,  and  the  supernatural  effect,  which  haunts  the 
forest  at  all  times,  is  greatly  intensified  by  this  unearthly  glow. 

The  redwood  trees,  which  are  numberless  in  the  Santa  Cruz 
Valley,  will  not  thrive  outside  of  the  state  of  California,  and  only  in  a 
limited  belt  in  that  state.  Soil  conditions,  abundance  of  oxygen  and  ozone> 
and  an  ocean  breeze,  seems  essential.  The  wood  is  rich  red  in  color,  of 
even  grain,  almost  free  from  knots,  and  has  wonderful  lasting  properties. 

It  is  said,  that  there  is  no  pitch,  turpentine,  volatile  nor  inflammable 
properties  in  the  wood,  and  that  houses  built  of  it  are  rarely  destroyed 
by  fire. 

The  fireproof  qualities  of  this  wood  impressed  Sir  Flechsig  so  strong- 
ly that  he  decided  to  appeal  to  the  government  with  a  novel  suggestion. 
As  paper  is  now  made  from  wood,  he  concluded  that  it  might  be  advisable 
to  have  bank  note  paper  made  from  red  wood,  so  that  the  public  need 
have  no  fear  of  "burning  up"  their  money.  Meanwhile,  Sir  Schulze  was 
figuring  out  another  theory  intended  to  be  beneficial  to  man.  Both 
gentlemen  were  inspired  by  their  surroundings.  Sir  Oscar  looked  long 
at  the  tree  which  had  been  hollowed  out  for  use  as  a  house,  and  which  still 
grew ;  and  from  this  he  deducted  the  idea,  that  if  a  young  redwood  were 
transplanted  into  a  city,  and  hollowed  out  as  a  hut,  it  would  grow  into  a 
magnificent  skyscraper  within  a  century,  and  what  an  enormous  per- 
centage of  interest  would  be  the  return. 

It  was  unpleasant  to  contemplate  leaving  these  natural  monuments 
to  the  universe.  They  not  only  have  a  vegetable  force  that  gives  them 
eternal  life,  but  even  a  soul  that  gives  them  wisdom  and  foresight,  similar 
to  the  instincts  of  animals  and  the  intelligence  of  men.  They  know  the 
seasons  of  the  year,  and  know  in  advance,  when  to  expect  them.  They 
move  their  enormous  branches  according  to  their  fancy,  and  change  their 
dress  and  clothe  themselves  in  different  hues  to  suit  the  season  and  oc- 
casion. They  take  root  far  down  in  the  depths  of  the  earth  where  all 
other  prolific  vegetation  dies. 

While  we  were  thus  soliloquizing  there  came  the  clang  of  the  loco- 
motive bell,  urging  us  to  return  to  the  train.  All  sentiment  instantly  be- 
came dispelled,  and  there  was  a  merry  clatter  of  feet  in  the  forest  as  we 
ran  for  the  gate.  The  ladies,  however,  tarried  long  enough  to  gather 
pieces  of  bark  as  a  lasting,  material  remembrance  of  our  visit ;  although 
the  impressions  gained,  will  in  themselves,  prove  lasting  souvenirs. 

The  trip  to  Santa  Cruz  was  a  short  one.  Here  our  "Special"  awaited 
us.  The  same  feeling  of  contentment  and  delight  at  meeting  an  old 
friend  overcame  us,  for  our  "home  on  wheels"  had  come  over  another 
route  from  San  Jose. 

Following  dinner  we  inspected  the  city,  which  proved  to  be  prin- 
cipally a  summer  resort.  The  town  nestles  in  a  sharp  bend  on  the  north- 
ern shore  of  Monterey  Bay,  which  is  20  miles  wide,  thereby  insuring- 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO)  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        205 

good  bathing,  boating,  and  fishing.  Hotels  are  plentiful  and  every  attri- 
bute that  appeals  to  the  heart  of  the  summer  vacationist  is  provided.  In 
the  background  are  the  Santa  Cruz  Mountains.  The  town  was  a  Mission 
founded  in  1791. 

We  visited  Sea  Beach  Hotel,  a  fine  hostelry  standing  on  an  eminence 
and  commanding  an  excellent  view  of  the  bay  and  the  broad,  sloping 
sand  beach.  Dotting  the  wide  shelving  beach  were  innumerable  tents 
of  many  hues,  where  bathers  and  visitors  find  shelter  from  the  sun.  It 
was  a  veritable  city  of  tents,  which  were  perched  upon  the  shore  like 
flocks  of  sea  gulls. 

Neptune  Casino  is  one  of  the  attractive  spots  at  the  resort,  where 
music  and  dancing  are  nightly  in  progress.  We  lingered  within  its 
walls  a  brief  time  to  permit  some  of  the  members  of  our  party  to  engage 
in  "tripping  the  light  fantastic."  Two  Sir  Knights  sat  nearby  and 
watched  the  merriment  with  a  furtive  glance.  They  seemed  occupied 
in  fanning  the  young  ladies  and  conversing  with  them.  As  the  bass  viol 
was  bearing  on  rather  hard,  the  Sir  Knights  shouted  everything  they  had 
to  say.  One  of  them  was  talking  in  a  loud  and  earnest  way  to  a  fascinat- 
ing damsel  when  the  music  ceased  with  a  sudden  snort,  and  he  was  heard 
to  exclaim :  "I  like  to  converse  with  people  in  whom  I  take  an  interest." 
If  the  Sir  Knight  had  checked  his  conversation  at  the  time  the  music 
ceased,  all  might  have  been  well — but  he  didn't. 

During  a  stroll  on  the  outskirts  of  town  we  observed  a  small  wooden 
structure,  from  which  came  forth  startling  outcries.  We  stopped  to  inves- 
tigate and  discovered  a  colored  congregation  frantically,  but  unsucess- 
fully,  trying  to  outyell  the  minister.  The  shepherd  of  the  flock  was 
throwing  his  arms  about  in  wild  excitement,  as  he  paced  the  floor  and 
loudly  shrieked.  If  he  were  not  black  his  face  would  have  turned  red; 
and  if  his  face  was  red  it  would  have  turned  black.  We  didn't  know 
what  particular  denomination  the  worshippers  acknowledged,  and  we 
didn't  dare  to  inquire. 

The  parson  wore  a  black  suit,  which  from  all  appearances  had  been 
given  to  him,  or  he  might  have  found  it  hanging  on  a  shutter  or  some 
backyard  fence.  It  was  the  best  fit,  in  a  misfit,  we  had  ever  seen.  The 
coat  went  away  below  his  knees,  and  instead  of  being  buttoned,  as  a 
double-breasted  coat  should,  he  wore  it  lapped  over,  and  the  button-holes 
were  fastened  with  safety  pins  from  the  left  shoulder  down.  An  elephant 
could  have  stepped  into  the  legs  of  the  trousers,  which  were  also  rolled 
up  a  foot  or  more,  at  the  bottom. 

The  preacher's  discourse  was  emphatic  and  he  sawed  the  air  like  a 
gladiator.  Of  course  we  stood  on  the  outside,  and  just  as  it  was  be- 
ginning to  get  interesting.  "My  dear  frens,  bredren  and  sistern,"  he 

said,  "de  soul  ob  de  black  man  am  as  dear  in  de  sight  ob — ob ," 

just  then  someone  yelled — c-h-i-c-k-e-n !     There  was  a  skirmish,  and 


206        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

we  took  "French  leave."  The  local  newspapers  had  an  item  the  fol- 
lowing morning,  with  the  headline:  "Chicken  Disrupts  Colored  Con- 
gregation." 

We  slept  a  comfortable  sleep  upon  our  "Special"  that  night,  for  our 
train  was  not  scheduled  to  leave  until  n  o'clock  in  the  morning.  There 
were  some  late  arrivals,  whom  the  writer  believes  were  delayed  because 
they  desired  quiet  and  lonesome  communion  with  the  sad  sea  waves. 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

ERY  little  of  the  next  morning  was  devoted  to  sleep,  for  we  desired 
to  spend  all  the  time  possible  in  sight-seeing.  Bathing  engaged 
the  attention  of  the  early  risers,  and  later  drives  were  taken  over 
the  many  fine  roads.  The  town  itself  is  pretty,  yet  unpretentious. 
Nearby  is  located  Capitola,  also  bordering  on  the  bay,  and  replete  with 
beautiful  woodland  scenery.  There  were  several  unique,  natural  bridges, 
in  and  about  Santa  Cruz,  formed  out  of  solid  rock  and  through  which 
the  waters  dash.  Noel  Heights  and  Beach  Hill  are  eminences  in  the 
rear  of  the  town  offering  excellent  viewpoints  from  which  to  scan  the 
surrounding  country. 

About  a  half  mile  from  Santa  Cruz,  on  the  bay  shore,  is  Twin  Lakes, 
a  park  owned  by  California  Baptists.  Lake  Seabright  lies  on  one  side  of 
the  park  and  Lake  Swan  on  the  other,  forming  a  picturesque  resort. 
Camp-meetings  are  held  here  during  the  summer  months. 

While  strolling  along  the  beach  Sir  D.  B.  Watson  and  Sir  Gilchrist 
not  only  encountered  several  Pennsylvanians,  but  also  came  upon  a 
stranded  actor  from  Pittsburgh.  How  the  latter  managed  to  walk  so  far 
away  from  home  was  a  question  that  mystified  the  Sir  Knights.  The 
tragedian  placidly  pursued  his  occupation  of  fishing  from  one  of  the  docks 
and  gave"  no  outward  signs  of  recognition. 

At  II 115  o'clock  we  had  all  boarded  the  "Special"  and  with  a  clang 
of  the  engine  bell,  and  a  final  "toot-toot,"  we  departed  for  Del  Monte, 
which  we  were  destined  to  reach  at  3  o'clock  in  the  afternoon. 

Passing  through  the  bayside  towns  of  Capitola  and  Aptos,  we  arrived 
at  Parjaro  a  few  moments  after  the  noon  hour.  Here  we  were  sched- 
uled to  stop  45  minutes,  in  order  to  afford  the  travelers  opportunity  to 
secure  luncheon. 

Many  left  the  train,  going  into  the  town,  which  was  located  quite  a 
distance  from  the  station.  For  some  unknown  reason,  after  a  stop  of 
about  10  or  15  minutes  had  been  made,  the  engineer  sounded  his  bell 
vigorously,  giving  the  signal  of  readiness  to  start.  Immediately  the 
placid  town  of  Parjaro  became  the  scene  of  great  activity.  Sir  Knights 


MONTEREY    AND     SANTA    CRUZ,    CAL. 

I — Old  Mission  Church  of  El  Carmelo.  2 — Natural  Bridge  and  Cypress  Trees.  3 — Old  Custom  House, 
Monterey,  Cal.  4 — Midway  Point,  near  Monterey.  s — San  Carlos  Mission.  Monterey,  Cal.  6 — Wave 
Motor,  Santa  Cruz,  Cal.  7 — First  Theatre  in  California,  Monterey,  Cal.  8 — Cliff  drive,  Santa  Cruz.  Cal.  9 — 
The  Waves  Break,  Pacific  Coast,  Cal.  10-13 — High  Waves.  Natural  Bridge,  Santa  Cruz,  Cal.  n — Allegheny 
"  Special  "  leaving  Santa  Cruz,  Cal.  12 — Casino  and  Sea  Beach  Hotel,  Santa  Cruz,  Cal. 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        207 

and  ladies  were  dashing  down  the  road,  some  of  them  clung  tenaciously 
to  their  hamless  sandwiches.  Others  had  just  begun  sipping  their  soup, 
when  their  anticipations  were  rudely  shattered  by  the  sound  of  the  engine 
bell.  None  had  succeeded  in  obtaining  a  meal. 

Just  as  the  last  breathless  diner  reached  the  car  steps,  a  cloud  of  dust 
was  seen  coming  down  the  road,  in  the  center  of  which  was  a  black  speck. 
A  few  moments  later  we  perceived  that  the  oncoming  object  was  a  car- 
riage, and  the  engineer  was  prevailed  upon  to  wait  a  moment,  until  we 
could  determine  what  the  trouble  was — every  member  of  our  party 
being  accounted  for. 

The  carriage  came  to  a  sudden  stop  on  the  opposite  side  of  a  large 
field,  which  separated  the  railway  from  the  road.  A  figure  was  seen 
hurriedly  alighting,  and  without  an  instant's  delay,  to  come  rushing  across 
the  field  at  top  speed.  Hat  in  hand,  he  frantically  hailed  the  engineer  to 
wait;  but  we  could  not  recognize  who  it  was,  for  he  appeared  to  have 
something  black  over  his  face.  Just  as  he  gained  the  edge  of  the  field, 
and  we  felt  that  we  would  learn  his  identity,  he  made  a  leap  to  clear  the 
fence,  but  unfortunately  misjudged  the  distance,  and  clung  on  a  picket 
most  ungracefully  by  the  seat  of  his  trousers.  Kicking  himself  free,  he 
landed  on  earth  again,  only  to  trip  over  a  log  in  his  anxiety  to  catch  the 
train.  When  he  broke  the  silence  with  a  shriek  that  forever  removed  all 
doubt  of  identity:  "I  heered  dat  bell  aringin,  an  I  dun  wan  to  stay  in 
dis  'ere  man's  country — no  sah!" 

It  was  one  of  our  colored  porters  who  had  ventured  into  the  town 
for  a  luncheon,  drank  his  soup,  and  had  magnanimously  hired  a  car- 
riage when  he  heard  the  call  of  the  engineer.  As  he  came  dashing  across 
the  field,  he  looked  more  like  a  hired  man  going  after  dinner  than  a 
porter  running  away  from  one.  His  patrons,  who  had  done  much  to- 
wards his  support  by  having  him  shine  their  shoes,  reached  the  train  by 
their  own  locomotion. 

About  2,  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  we  arrived  at  Del  Monte  and  Mon- 
terey, both  places  being  in  close  proximity  to  one  another ;  not  more  than 
a  mile  separating  them. 

Del  Monte  is  the  Garden  of  Eden  of  the  2Oth  century.  It  was  a 
spot  we  had  longed  to  see,  and  our  anticipations  sought  the  idealistic, 
because  of  the  pictures  we  had  seen  of  its  gorgeous  beauty.  Contrary 
to  custom,  the  pictures  did  not  do  justice  to  the  original.  They  were 
not  beautiful  enough — not  fanciful  enough — they  had  not  told  half  the 
story;  nor  can  words  accurately  portray  the  wonderful  charms  of  the 
landscape  gardening  that  is  spread  over  the  200  acres  surrounding  the 
Del  Monte  Hotel.  The  beauty,  which  here  arrests  the  eye,  is  highly 
picturesque  and  ever  sublime;  the  admiration  keeps  a  firm  hold  on  the 
memory  long  after  many  other  scenes  and  impressions  have  faded  away. 
We  had  seen  many  marvelous  works  of  Nature  established  by  Nature 


208        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

herself,  unaided.  But  here,  at  Del  Monte,  we  saw  the  works  of  Nature 
aided  by  the  greatest  skill  that  man  can  command,  the  best  soil  the  earth 
can  produce,  and  the  most  agreeable  climate  for  horticultural  splendors. 
The  blending  of  Nature  and  art  is  so  complete ;  and  the  grace  of  garden 
and  lawn,  of  shrubbery  and  flower-bed,  and  shining  lake,  so  fits  in  with 
the  grace  of  the  wilderness,  which  nowhere  has  been  lost  or  marred. 

The  short  drive  from  the  station  to  the  hotel  carries  one  through  the 
magnificent  lawns  of  the  hostelry.  It  is  but  the  carpet  of  Nature  stretched 
out  in  its  most  magnificent  pattern.  Floral  creations,  which  are  peculiar 
to  the  climate,  grow  in  abundance.  Here  are  wondrous  live  oaks  and 
"green  bay  trees,"  like  those  of  Palestine;  young  specimens  of  the 
Sequoia,  California  big  trees,  besides  shrubs  and  trees  from  all  lands,  the 
Arizona  garden;  the  maze  with  its  hedges  of  Monterey  cypresses,  and 
its  mile  of  tang-led  footpaths.  No  posy-planted  perfume  farm  of  the 
Rivera  could  display  fields  of  richer  floral  beauty  than  these  enchanted 
gardens.  The  whole  surrounding  is  bewitching.  Every  leaf  and  blade 
of  grass  appears  to  have  been  brushed,  watered,  and  trimmed  every  day. 
Surely  the  hedges  and  floral  designs  were  shaped  and  measured,  and  their 
symmetry  preserved  by  the  most  architectural  of  gardeners  and  civil 
engineers,  or  some  one  else  exceptionally  competent  to  measure  dis- 
tances without  fault.  Surely  the  stately  rows  of  trees  that  divide  the 
beautiful  landscape,  the  shrubs,  the  flowers  and  the  leaves,  were  trained 
in  their  growth,  and  found  their  places  in  the  beautifully  impressive  pic- 
ture, by  the  use  of  the  plum,  level  and  the  square.  How  else  are  these 
marvels  of  symmetry,  beauty  and  order  attained?  There  is  not  a  fence 
nor  wall  to  interfere  with  Nature's  own  growth.  There  is  no  dust,  rub- 
bish, or  decay  within  sight — nothing  that  could  possibly  suggest  neglect. 
All  is  orderly,  beautiful  and  fascinating,  with  a  charm  that  rarely  abounds 
elsewhere  than  in  the  childish  ideal  of  fairyland,  or  the  mature  impres- 
sions of  a  Paradise. 

Reaching  the  magnificent  hotel,  which  enjoys  the  patronage  of  the 
ultra-fashionable,  as  well  as  the  casual  traveler,  we  at  once  entered  upon 
a  sight-seeing  expedition. 

One  of  the  most  attractive  drives  in  California  is  known  as  the 
"Seventeen-mile  Drive,"  which  leads  from  Hotel  Del  Monte  over  beauti- 
ful, smooth,  and  dustless  macadamized  roads.  Several  members  of  our 
party  took  this  drive  in  part.  The  path  winds  around  Monterey  penin- 
sula, passing  the  Junipero  Serra  Monument,  and  the  spot  where  the  old 
Padre  and  his  followers  knelt  in  worship  more  than  a  century  ago.  It 
passes  through  Pacific  Grove  and  skirts  the  bayshore  beneath  thousand- 
year-old  cypress  trees,  and  offers,  at  times,  a  panoramic  view  of  Monterey 
and  the  bay,  with  Fremont's  peak  in  the  distance. 

A  short  visit  to  the  old,  half-Spanish  town  of  Monterey,  offered 
scenes  of  the  quaintest  interest.  Monterey  was  the  first  capital  of  Cali- 


SCENES    AT    DEL    MONTE,     CALIFORNIA. 

PICTURESQUE      PARKS     AND     GROUNDS     OF     THE  'HOTEL     DEL     MONTE. 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        209 

fornia,  in  the  earliest  period  of  Spanish  rule,  and  it  was  here,  in  the  old 
adobe  house  in  1847,  tnat  General  Fremont  raised  the  first  American 
flag  ever  sent  to  the  California  breeze.  The  town  is  a  curious  mixture 
of  modern  architecture  and  ancient  tile-roofed  adobe  houses  of  early 
Spanish  days.  The  old  Custom  House,  erected  in  1822,  is  pointed  out 
to  visitors  as  one  of  the  curiosities,  as  well  as  the  old  whaling  station; 
the  old  adobe  where  Jenny  Lind  once  sang ;  the  rose  arbor  where  General 
Sherman  made  love ;  and  Colton  Hall,  where  California's  first  legislature 
met.  The  streets  are  crooked  and  narrow,  and  were  originally  trails. 

Near  Monterey  is  Pacific  Grove,  and  the  old  mission  of  Carmel  which 
was  established  in  1771.  Hotel  El  Carmelo,  named  after  the  mission, 
entertains  visitors  to  Pacific  Grove.  A  visit  can  be  made  to  Lighthouse 
Point  and  the  Ord  Barracks,  named  for  Major  General  E.  O.  C.  Ord,  one 
of  the  largest  and  most  important  military  points  in  the  United  States. 

On  the  bayshore,  at  Monterey,  visitors  are  provided  with  glass-bot- 
tom boats  similar  to  those  which  have  made  the  Catalina  Islands  famous. 
The  center  of  these  boats  are  equipped  with  glass,  and  the  passengers, 
seated  about,  and  leaning  over  a  rail  provided  for  the  purpose,  look 
through  the  glass  and  down  into  the  very  bottom  of  the  bay.  The  waters 
are  very  clear  and  peculiarly  magnifying.  Every  pebble  on  the  bottom  of 
the  bay  can  be  clearly  seen,  while  the  many  peculiar  species  of  sea  weed, 
and  the  countless  number  of  novel  and  well  known  fish,  make  the  trip  a 
highly  entertaining  and  interesting  one. 

With  keen  appetites,  encouraged  by  the  breezes  of  Monterey  bay  and 
the  invigorating  climate  of  the  island,  we  made  application  at  Hotel  Del 
Monte  for  dinner.  From  the  wide  verandas  riotous  roses  clambered  to 
offer  a  welcome  shade,  while  the  interior  of  the  hotel,  and  the  dining  halls, 
were  all  that  a  blending  of  splendor  and  comfort  could  make  them. 

The  menu  was  a  most  elaborate  one,  and  on  a  par  with  the  best 
offered  in  high  class  hotels  of  the  larger  cities,  and  superior  to  many  of 
them.  During  dinner,  a  competent  orchestra  furnished  delightful  music. 

Among  diversions  provided  for  the  hotel  guests  are :  athletic  sports 
of  various  kinds,  coaching,  racing,  tennis,  basket-ball,  football,  golf,  polo, 
bathing,  rowing,  sailing  and  other  outdoor  amusements.  The  Club 
House,  with  its  billiard  rooms  and  bowling  alleys,  and  the  Bathing  Pavil- 
ion and  Sun  Tower  afford  other  methods  of  recreation,  while  informal 
dances  in  the  ball  rooms,  concerts,  and  other  entertainment,  for  which 
elaborate  preparations  are  made,  provide  indoor  pastime  in  the  evening. 

Following  our  most  satisfying  repast,  we  engaged  in  many  of  the 

diversions  offered,  until  the  hour  set  for  our  departure.     We  were  so 

fascinated  by  the  enchanting  gardens  that  we  utilized  the  opportunity  to 

stroll  among  the  maze  of  flowers  and  shrubs — a  quiet  row  on  Laguna  del 

(14) 


210        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

Rey,  the  lake  upon  the  grounds,  over  which  the  swan  and  sea  fowl  grace- 
fully disport  in  idle  beauty  among  the  lily  pads. 

Sir  John  Bader  was  the  most  sought-after  man  in  the  party  that 
evening.  With  his  training  as  a  florist,  (for  that  is  his  vocation)  he  alone 
was  in  possession  of  the  identity  of  the  wonderful  blooms  and  flowers 
that  were  so  strange  to  us,  and  so  foreign  to  our  home  climate.  Sir 
Bader  was  ready  to  provide  the  Latin  term  for  every  shrub.  However, 
once  in  possession  of  the  Latin  names,  we  were  still  in  blissful  ignorance. 

Finally  the  hour  for  departure  was  at  hand.  Reluctantly  we  saun- 
tered to  the  station.  Here  we  met  delegations  of  the  Washington,  Bal- 
timore and  Philadelphia  Commanderies,  who  were  also  outward  bound. 
In  an  instant  the  spirit  of  good  fellowship  prevailed  with  marked  enthu- 
siasm, the  hills  re-echoing  with  laughter  and  song.  There  was  but  a 
short  time  to  wait  for  our  respective  trains.  During  the  interval,  a  very 
informal  entertainment  was  unanimously  agreed  upon,  wherein  everyone 
was  compelled  to  make  a  speech,  tell  a  story,  or  sing  a  song.  There  were 
so  many  in  the  gathering,  that  it  became  necessary  to  have  several  speech- 
es made  and  a  number  of  songs  sung  at  the  same  time ;  but  this  did  not 
appear  to  detract  from  the  entertainment.  Old  and  young  were  included 
in  the  talent,  and  the  few  moments  spent  at  Del  Monte  station,  awakened 
the  hills  with  the  echoes  of  laughing,  chattering,  song  and  frolic. 

Our  "Special"  was  the  first  to  leave  the  station.  We  had  gone  but 
a  short  distance  down  the  track  when  our  train  came  to  a  stop.  Many 
of  the  ladies  and  older  folks  had  retired  for  the  night,  while  the  com- 
missary car  delegation  was  still  awake — very  widely  awake. 

We  had  not  stopped  long,  when  another  train  was  heard  coming 
down  the  track.  It  drew  up  to  a  stop  on  a  track  directly  opposite  us, 
and  proved  to  be  the  "Special"  of  one  of  the  other  delegations.  All  was 
quiet  aboard,  windows  were  curtained  and  silence  prevailed.  A  moment 
later  another  "Special"  drew  up,  and  stopped  on  the  track  on  the  other 
side  of  our  "Special."  As  was  the  case  with  the  first  train,  all  was  quiet 
aboard. 

Realizing  that  the  delegations  on  board  the  other  trains  were  endeav- 
oring to  go  to  sleep,  the  commissary  car  chorus  felt  called  upon  to  render 
a  serenade,  for  they  had  been  told  in  every  state  through  which  they  had 
passed,  that  their  singing  "would  put  anyone  to  sleep."  The  truth  of 
this  was  refuted,  however,  for  when  the  chorus  struck  up,  and  several 
of  our  musicians  played  a  vigilant  accompaniment  on  the  windows  of  the 
two  trains,  there  were  many  signs  of  an  awakening  among  our  Praters. 

Curtains  were  slowly  raised  along  the  two  lines  of  cars.  Heads 
were  seen  to  tilt  sideways  to  ascertain  the  cause  of  the  tumult,  and  finally, 
realizing  that  it  was  not  an  attack  by  hostile  forces,  the  windows  were 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        211 

raised,  and  a  tirade  of  wit  and  humor  flew  thick  and  fast,  with  the  Alle- 
gheny "Special"  as  the  center  of  a  double  fire. 

The  final  parting  came,  as  the  trains  started  in  earnest  for  their  des- 
tinations, and  with  a  rousing  farewell  cheer,  we  went  our  way.  Our 
"Special"  rode  throughout  the  night  and  brought  us  to  Santa  Barbara  on 
the  following  morning. 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 

HERE  was  much  joviality  in  the  "stag"  coach  and  commissary  car 
until  the  night  began  to  fade  into  morning.  It  was  past  mid- 
night when  we  reached  the  town  of  Paso  Rubles,  and  when  San 
Luis  Obispo  was  passed  at  3  o'clock,  there  were  none  awake  but 
the  engineer  and  a  few  of  the  train  crew. 

From  San  Luis  Obispo  to  Santa  Barbara  the  railroad  passes  through 
a  varied  country.  Cutting  across  the  valley,  it  spans  divides,  follows 
ravines,  circles  mountains,  delves  into  hills,  until  it  reaches  Surf,  a  town 
on  the  rocky  shore  of  the  ocean  front.  From  Surf  southward,  the  route 
lies  along  the  ocean  for  100  miles,  with  points  of  interest  scattered  liber- 
ally enroute. 

It  was  early  in  the  morning,  Sunday,  September  n,  when  the  sleep- 
ing pilgrims  were  suddenly  aroused  by  the  persistent  and  urgent  calls 
of  one  who  impatiently  paced  the  aisles,  shouting  at  the  top  of  his  voice : 
"Sunday  barber!  Sunday  barber!  Sunday  barber!  in  such  rapid  succes- 
sion, that  without  exception,  every  one  of  the  sleepers  believed  the  in- 
truder to  have  called  "Santa  Barbara,"  inasmuch  as  that  was  our  des- 
tination. 

Sir  Aeberli  who  gave  this  misleading  cry,  did  so  purposely  in  an 
effort  to  insure  an  early  breakfast.  As  had  been  the  custom  he  was  pre- 
viously chosen  by  lot,  to  serve  as  barber  on  that  day,  and  took  the  oppor- 
tunity, (it  being  Sunday)  to  persistently  announce:  "Sunday  barber," 
leading  the  sleepers  to  believe  they  had  either  overslept,  or  that  the  train 
was  running  several  hours  ahead  of  its  schedule.  There  was  a  quick 
outpouring  from  the  berths,  after  which  a  vigorous  search  was  made  for 
Sir  Aeberli,  who  in  some  manner  managed  to  make  his  escape  into  the 
furthermost  recesses  of  the  commissary  car.  However,  as  a  result,  there 
was  an  early  breakfast  on  board  the  train  that  morning. 

It  was  9:30  o'clock  when  we  reached  Santa  Barbara.  The  bells  of 
the  famous  Santa  Barbara  Mission  were  tolling.  We  knew  not  whether 


212        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

we  were  being  serenaded,  or  invited  to  the  mission,  for  if  the  invitation 
was  a  general  one,  it  must  be  taken  for  granted  that  the  residents  of 
Santa  Barbara  are  somewhat  dilatory  in  responding,  considering  the 
length  of  time  the  mission  bells  were  rung.  We  immediately  engaged 
carriages  and  drove  through  the  town  and  suburbs. 

Santa  Barbara  with  its  10,000  inhabitants,  is  situated  as  a  rectan- 
gular parallelogram  in  that  angle  of  the  California  coast,  where  the  shore 
line  bends  like  an  elbow  at  Point  Concepcion  and  trends  towards  the 
sunrise.  Ribbed  and  stayed  with  parallel  and  transverse  mountain  ranges, 
broken  and  diversified  by  smiling  and  sunlit  valleys,  washed  by  the  sea 
on  both  southern  and  western  shores,  it  is  interesting  and  attractive.  Its 
southern  shore  constitutes  the  only  considerable  east  and  west  trend  of 
coast  on  the  western  shore  of  the  United  States,  hence  it  is  the  only  shore 
line  in  all  this  western  land  that  faces  the  sun. 

The  city  of  Santa  Barbara  is  situated  in  the  most  sheltered  nook 
on  this  east  and  west  trend  of  coast.  With  a  southerly  exposure,  over- 
looking the  warm  waters  of  the  Santa  Barbara  channel,  and  protected 
from  all  chilling  winds  by  the  mountain  wall  of  the  Santa  Yuez  range, 
north  of  the  town.  The  cooling  sea  breeze  eliminates  the  heat  of  sum- 
mer and  flowers  bloom,  fruits  ripen,  vegetables  grow  all  the  year  round. 
The  Bay  of  Santa  Barbara  is  renowned  for  its  beauty  as  that  of 
famed  Naples,  which  it  so  much  resembles.  From  Point  Santa  Barbara, 
where  the  lighthouse  stands  like  a  sentinel  in  white,  eastward  to  Rincon, 
the  shore  sweeps  in  a  circle  of  uniform  curve,  15  miles  in  length,  now  with 
wave-lapped  sandy  shore,  then  rising  into  low  bluffs  that  bound  oak- 
dotted  mesas.  And  the  waters  ripple  on  this  winterless  shore  as  gently 
as  the  wavelets  on  an  island  lake. 

For  yachting  and  boating  the  Santa  Barbara  Channel  offers  ample 
sea  room,  yet  so  protected  by  the  mountainous  island  chain  on  the  south 
and  the  elevated  shore  of  the  mainland  on  the  north,  as  to  be  entirely 
safe  at  all  times.  Surf  bathing  is  said  to  be  unexcelled,  as  the  waters 
are  claimed  to  be  free  from  all  undertow.  What  a  field  of  pleasure  for 
the  coming  time  when  the  millions  that  are  to  throng  the  Pacific  shore 
shall  here  find  an  advantageous  and  attractive  marine  playground. 

Island  and  bay,  shore,  valley  and  foothills  are  not  the  full  assets  of 
Santa  Barbara.  There  are  heights  and  beauties  beyond,  and  the  tower- 
ing Santa  Yuez,  that,  like  a  mighty  wall  guards  this  happy  valley  from 
Borea's  chilling  breath,  holds  within  its  canyons,  gorges  and  defiles  a 
never-ending  series  of  delights.  Trails  lead  up  to  its  heights  and  traverse 
its  summits,  and  wonder  and  romance  lie  along  the  pathway. 

Across  the  channel  from  Santa  Barbara  are  the  mountainous  islands 
of  San  Miguel,  Santa  Rosa,  Santa  Cruz  and  Anacapa.  Santa  Cruz  and 
Santa  Rosa  contain  more  than  50,000  acres  each,  but  Santa  Cruz  is  the 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        213 

most  picturesque  owing  to  its  mountainous  character,  wonderful  cav- 
erns and  chambers,  which  the  winds  and  waves  through  many  ages  have 
hollowed  out  along  the  precipitous  shores.  These  caves,  in  which  the 
ebb  and  flux  of  the  tide  make  deep  bellowings  as  though  some  sea-god 
were  manifesting  his  displeasure  at  being  disturbed  by  visitors  from 
the  outside  world,  are  of  unexplored  depths ;  and  a  brave  one  is  he 
who,  after  passing  beyond  the  twilight  that  comes  from  the  outside 
world,  dares  venture  into  the  darkness,  whose  extent  can  only  be  sur- 
mised from  the  startling  echoes  that  come  from  apparently  unfathom- 
able recesses. 

Santa  Barbara  has  striking  suburban  villas  and  home  sites,  many 
of  which  command  fine  views  from  the  bluffs,  rising  to  the  east  and  west 
of  the  town.  Fine  roadways  make  driving  a  pleasure  for  these  subur- 
banites. 

Santa  Barbara  was  founded  in  1782,  and  of  the  old  Presido  no  trace 
remains  save  some  slight  mounds  where  the  walls  crumbled  away  years 
ago.  It  stood  near  the  intersection  of  Santa  Barbara  and  Canon  Per- 
dido  streets,  and  around  it  in  the  early  days  clustered  the  adobe  dwell- 
ings of  the  pioneer  residents,  for  it  was  a  frontier  garrison  of  Old  Spain, 
and  the  Spanish  flag  floated  from  its  walls. 

This  section  of  the  city  is  still  largely  inhabited  by  Spanish-speak- 
ing people  who  comprise  one-sixth  of  the  population.  Here  are  still 
found  quaint  adobe  homes,  some  a  century  old,  which  stand  in  bold 
contrast  to  the  many  modern  buildings.  The  old  structures  were  erected 
before  streets  were  laid  out,  and  without  any  regard  for  the  points  of 
the  compass.  The  result  is  a  delightfully  haphazard  arrangement. 

Of  all  the  memorials  of  bygone  days  there  is  none  in  the  town  of 
equal  interest  with  the  mission  building,  whose  gray  towers  crown  the 
slope  upon  which  the  town  rests.  It  is  the  only  mission  of  more  than 
a  score  established  on  the  Pacific  Coast,  in  which  the  daily  ministrations 
of  the  Franciscan  order  has  not  ceased  since  its  founding,  and  since  its 
inception  in  1786  it  has  been  a  landmark  to  the  mariner  and  a  point  of 
interest  to  the  traveler. 

We  found  the  mission  building  to  be  all  that  its  pictures  had  im- 
plied. The  impression  of  grewsomeness  and  fearsomeness,  with  which 
such  buildings  are  always  clothed,  prevails  in  all  its  completeness.  The 
old  building  is  of  plain  construction  on  the  Moorish  order  of  architecture. 
Within  the  gates,  and  in  the  garden,  were  several  long-robed,  well-fed 
and  prosperous-looking  monks.  Here  and  there  we  saw  one  with 
shaven  head,  coarse  robe,  rope  girdle  and  strung  with  beads,  and  with 
feet  encased  in  sandals  or  entirely  bare. 

The  monks  were  very  accommodating.  For  a  piece  of  silver  they 
showed  us  around,  and  the  larger  the  denomination  of  the  coin  pre- 
sented, the  more  we  saw.  Anything  from  a  kind  word  to  a  relic  of  the 


214        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

building  could  be  purchased.  Pieces  of  old,  rusty  iron  and  keys  which 
it  was  alleged  were  used  a  century  ago,  were  offered  for  sale;  and  it 
is  astonishing  how  the  supply  holds  out,  considering  that  these  relics  have 
been  sold  for  years. 

Sir  Craig,  who  purchased  an  old  key  from  one  of  the  monks,  ex- 
pressed a  desire  to  secure  a  chain,  explaining  as  he  had  purchased  the 
key  from  the  monk,  he  considered  it  a  monk  key.  It  did  not  take  long 
to  supply  our  party  with  "relics"  and  we  found  greater  interest  in 
viewing  the  grounds  and  the  old  building. 

Sir  Jack  entered  the  mission  and  was  requested  to  register.  Through 
force  of  habit,  due  to  the  many  hotel  stops  on  our  pilgrimage,  he 
handed  his  umbrella  to  one  of  the  monks  and  inquired  when  dinner 
would  be  ready. 

Santa  Barbara  Mission  was  long  known  as  the  "American  Men- 
tone,"  because  of  its  similarity  to  the  European  resort.  A  curiosity  of 
the  neighborhood  is  La  Parra  Grande,  or  the  "Great  Vine,"  which  has 
a  trunk  four  feet  in  diameter  and  covers  a  trellis  60  feet  square.  Its 
annual  average  production  is  8,000  pounds  of  grapes.  Many  legends 
are  told  in  connection  with  the  history  of  the  old  building.  It  is  said 
that  6,000  Indians  are  buried  within  its  walls,  and  that  most  of  these 
were  the  early  converts  of  the  Franciscan  monks. 

Naturally,  the  question  most  asked  by  tourists  who  visit  the  mis- 
sions of  California,  is  how  and  why  they  came  to  be  erected  and  by  whom. 
The  story  is  an  interesting  and  romantic  one  and  is  well  told  in  a  lit- 
tle booklet  (California,  via  the  Santa  Fe  Trail),  issued  by  the  Santa 
Fe  railroad,  which  has  been  of  great  value  to  the  writer  and  is  here- 
with reproduced  in  part,  by  the  courtesy  of  the  publishers: 

STORY    OF    THE    MISSIONS. 

In  the  middle  of  the  eighteenth  century  the  Spanish  throne,  desiring  to 
encourage  colonization  of  its  territory  of  Upper  California,  then  unpeopled 
save  by  native  Indian  tribes,  entered  into  an  arrangement  with  the  Order  of  St. 
Francis  by  virtue  of  which  that  order  undertook  to  establish  missions  in  the 
new  country  which  were  to  be  the  nuclei  of  future  villages  and  cities,  to 
which  Spanish  subjects  were  encouraged  to  emigrate.  By  the  terms  of  that 
arrangement  the  Franciscans  were  to  possess  the  mission  properties  and  their 
revenues  for  IO  years,  which  was  deemed  a  sufficient  period  in  which  to  fairly 
establish  the  colonies,  when  the  entire  property  was  to  revert  to  the  Spanish 
government.  In  point  of  fact  the  Franciscans  were  left  in  undisputed  possession 
for  more  than  a  half  century. 

The  monk  chosen  to  take  charge  of  the  undertaking  was  Junipero  Serra. 
Seven  years  before  the  Declaration  of  the  Independence  of  the  American  Colo- 
nies, in  the  early  summer  of  1769,  he  entered  the  bay  of  San  Diego,  227  years 
after  Cabrillo  had  discovered  it  for  Spain  and  167  years  after  it  had  been  sur- 
veyed and  named  by  Viscaino,  during  all  which  preceding  time  the  country 
had  lain  fallow.  Within  two  months  Serra  had  founded  a  mission  near 
the  month  of  the  San  Diego  River,  which  five  years  after  was  removed 
some  six  miles  up  the  valley  to  a  point  about  three  miles  distant  from  the  pres- 
ent city  of  San  Diego.  From  that  time  one  mission  after  another  was  founded, 
21  in  all,  from  San  Diego  along  the  coast  as  far  north  as  San  Francisco.  The 
more  important  of  these  were  built  of  stone  and  a  hard  burnt  brick  that  even 


SANTA    BARBARA,    CAL.,    AND    CALIFORNIA    MISSIONS. 

1-13 — Mission  Santa  Barbara,  founded  lj85.  2-6-7-9-11 — Gardens  of  Santa  Barbara  Mission.  3 — Plaza  del  Mar  and 
Hotel  Potter  from  Los  Banos  del  Mar.  4 — Los  Banos  del  Mar.  5— Arlington  Hotel  and  Annex.  8 — The  Old  Mission  Bells, 
ip — Mission  Dolores,  San  Francisco.  12 — Mission  San  Buena  Ventura,  in  the  city  of  Ventura.  14 — The  Santa  Cruz  Mis- 
sion, as  it  appeared  when  it  was  in  the  days  of  its  prime.  15 — Carmel  Mission,  near  Monterey.  16 — Scene  from  the  Belfry, 
Santa  Barbara  Mission.  17 — Mission  San  Carlos  Borromeo,  erected  at  Monterey  in  1804.  18 — San  Fernando  Mission.  19 
— San  Gabriel  Mission,  seven  miles  from  Los  Angeles.  20 — Ruins  of  the  Mission  at  San  Juan  Capistrano  (  has  recently  been 
partially  restored).  21 — Mission  San  Juan  Capistrano.  22 — Home  of  Ramona,  Camulos.  23 — At  Santa  Barbara.  24— 
The  esplanade  at  Santa  Barbara.  2S — Potter  Hotel,  from  the  Plaza.  26— Santa  Clara  Mission  and  College,  Santa  Clara, 
Cal.  27 — Among  the  oil  wells,  on  the  beach  at  Summerland. 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        215 

now  will  turn  the  edge  of  the  finest  trowel.  The  labor  of  their  construction 
was  appalling.  Brick  had  to  be  burnt,  stone  quarried  and  dressed,  and  huge 
timbers  for  rafters  brought  on  men's  shoulders  from  the  mountain  forests,  some- 
times 30  miles  distant,  through  rocky  canyons  and  over  trackless  hills. 

The  Indians  performed  most  of  this  labor,  under  the  direction  of  the  monks. 
These  Indians  were  tractable,  as  a  rule.  Once,  or  twice  at  most,  they  rose 
against  their  masters,  but  the  policy  of  the  padres  was  kindness  and  forgive- 
ness, although  it  must  be  inferred  that  the  condition  of  the  Indians  over  whom 
they  claimed  spiritual  and  temporal  authority  was  a  form  of  slavery,  without  all 
the  cruelties  that  usually  pertain  to  enforced  servitude. 

They  were  the  bondsmen  of  the  padres,  whose  aim  was  to  convert  them 
to  Christianity  and  civilization,  and  many  thousands  of  them  were  persuaded  to 
cluster  around  the  missions,  their  daughters  becoming  neophytes  in  the  con- 
vents, and  the  others  contributing  their  labor  to  the  erection  of  the  enormous 
structures  that  occupied  many  acres  of  ground  and  to  the  industries  of  agricul- 
ture, cattle  raising,  and  a  variety  of  manufactures.  There  were,  after  the  prim- 
itive fashion  of  the  time,  woolen  mills,  wood- working  and  blacksmith  shops, 
and  such  other  manufactories  as  were  practicable  in  the  existing  state  of  the 
arts,  which  could  be  made  profitable. 

The  mission  properties  soon  became  enormously  valuable,  their  yearly 
revenues  sometimes  amounting  to  $2,000,000.  The  exportation  of  hides  was 
one  of  the  most  important  items,  and  merchant  vessels  from  our  own  Atlantic  sea- 
board, from  England  and  from  Spain,  sailed  to  the  California  coast  for  cargoes 
of  that  commodity.  Dana's  romantic  and  universally  read  "Two  Years  Be- 
fore the  Mast,"  is  the  record  of  such  a  voyage.  He  visited  California  more 
than  a  half  century  ago,  and  found  its  quaint  Spanish-Indian  life  full  of  the 
picturesque  and  romantic. 

The  padres  invariably  selected  a  site  favorable  for  defense,  commanding 
views  of  entrancing  scenery,  on  the  slopes  of  the  most  fertile  valleys,  and  con- 
venient to  the  running  water  which  was  the  safeguard  of  agriculture  in  a 
country  of  sparse  and  uncertain  rainfall.  The  Indians,  less  warlike  in  nature 
than  the  roving  tribes  east  of  the  Rockies,  were  almost  universally  submissive. 
If  there  was  ever  an  Arcadia  it  was  surely  there  and  then.  Against  the  blue 
of  the  sky,  unspotted  by  a  single  cloud  through  many  months  of  the  year, 
snow-crowned  mountains  rose  in  dazzling  relief,  while  oranges,  olives,  figs, 
dates,  bananas,  and  every  other  variety  of  temperate  and  sub-tropical  fruit  which 
i  had  been  introduced  by  the  Spaniards,  ripened  in  a  sun  whose  ardency  was 
tempered  by  the  dryness  of  the  air  into  an  equability  like  that  of  June,  while 
the  regularly  alternating  breeze  that  daily  swept  to  and  from  the  ocean  and 
mountain  made  summer  and  winter  almost  indistinguishable  seasons,  then  as 
now,  save  for  the  welcome  rains  that  characterize  the  latter. 

At  the  foot  of  the  valley,  between  the  mountain  slopes,  and  never  more 
than  a  few  miles  away,  the  waters  of  the  Pacific  rocked  placidly  in  the  brilliant 
sunlight  or  broke  in  foam  upon  a  broad  beach  of  sand.  In  such  a  scene  Span- 
iard and  Indian  plied  their  peaceful  vocations,  the  one  in  picturesque  national 
garb,  the  other  almost  innocent  of  clothing,  while  over  and  around  them  lay  an 
atmosphere  of  sacredness  which  even  to  this  day  clings  to  the  broken  arches 
and  crumbling  walls.  Over  the  peaceful  valleys  a  veritable  angelus  rang.  The 
mellow  bells  of  the  mission  churches  summoned  dusky  hordes  to  ceremonial 
devotion.  Want  and  strife  were  unknown. 

It  is  true  they  had  their  trials.  Earthquakes  which  have  been  almost  un- 
known in  California  for  a  quarter  of  a  century,  were  then  not  uncommon,  and 
were  at  times  disastrous.  Rio  de  los  Temblores  was  the  name  of  a  stream  de- 
rived from  the  frequency  of  earth  rockings  in  the  region  through  which  it  flowed; 
and  in  the  second  decade  of  our  century  the  dreaded  temblor  upset  the  120-foot 
tower  of  the  Mission  San  Juan  Capistrano  and  sent  it  crashing  down  through 
the  roof  upon  a  congregation,  of  whom  nearly  40  perished.  Those,  too,  were 
lawless  times  upon  the  main.  Pirates,  cruising  the  South  Seas  in  quest  of 
booty,  hovered  about  the  California  coast,  and  then  the  mission  men  stood  to 
their  arms,  while  the  women  and  children  fled  to  the  interior  canyons  with 
their  portable  treasures.  One  buccaneer,  Bouchard,  repulsed  in  his  attempt 
upon  Dolores  and  Santa  Barbara,  descended  successfully  upon  another  mission 
and  dwelt  there  riotously  for  a  time,  carousing  and  destroying  such  valuables  as 
he  could  not  carry  away,  while  the  entire  population  quaked  in  the  forest  along 
the  Rio  Trabuco.  This  was  the  same  luckless  San  Juan  Capistrano,  six  years 
after  the  earthquake  visitation.  Then,  too  there  were  bickerings  of  a  political 
nature,  and  struggles  for  place,  after  the  rule  of  Mexico  had  succeeded  to  that 
of  Spain,  but  the  common  people  troubled  themselves  little  with  such  matters. 


216        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

The  end  of  the  Franciscan  dynasty  came  suddenly  with  the  secularization 
of  the  mission  property  by  the  Mexican  government  to  replete  the  exhausted 
treasuries  of  Santa  Ana.  Sadly  the  monks  forsook  the  scene  of  their  long  la- 
bors, and  silently  the  Indians  melted  away  into  the  wilderness  and  the  darkness 
of  their  natural  ways,  save  such  as  had  intermarried  with  the  families  of  Spanish 
soldiers  and  colonists.  The  churches  are  now,  for  the  most  part,  only  decayed 
legacies  and  fragmentary  reminders  of  a  time  whose  like  the  world  will  never 
know  again.  Save  only  three  or  four,  preserved  by  reverent  hands,  where 
modern  worshippers,  denationalized  and  clad  in  American  dress,  still  kneel  and 
recite  their  orisons,  the  venerable  ruins  are  forsaken  by  all  except  the  tourist 
and  the  antiquarian,  and  their  bells  are  silent  forever.  There  is  hardly  a  more 
noteworthy  name  in  the  annals  of  California  than  that  of  Junipero  Serra,  and  in 
heroic  endeavor  there  is  no  more  signal  instance  of  absolute  failure  than  his 
who  founded  the  California  missions,  aside  from  the  perpetuation  of  his  saintly 
name.  They  accomplished  nothing  so  far  as  can  now  be  seen. 

The  descendants  of  their  converts,  what  few  have  survived  contact  with  the 
Anglo-Saxon,  have  no  discoverable  worth,  and,  together  with  the  greater  part 
of  the  original  Spanish  population,  have  faded  away,  as  if  a  blight  had  fallen 
upon  them. 

But  so  long  as  one  stone  remains  upon  another,  and  a  single  arch  of  the 
missions  still  stands,  an  atmosphere  will  abide  there,  something  that  does  not 
come  from  mountain,  or  vale,  or  sea,  or  sky;  the  spirit  of  consecration,  it  may 
be;  but  if  it  is  only  the  aroma  of  ancient  and  romantic  associations,  the  sugges- 
tion of  a  peculiar  phase  of  earnest  and  simple  human  life  and  quaint  environ- 
ment that  is  forever  past,  the  mission-ruins  must  remain  among  the  most  inter- 
esting monuments  in  all  our  varied  land,  and  will  amply  repay  the  inconsiderable 
effort  and  outlay  required  to  enable  the  tourist  to  view  them.  San  Diego,  the 
oldest;  San  Duis  Rey,  the  most  poetically  environed;  San  Juan  Capistrano,  of 
most  tragic  memory;  San  Gabriel,  the  most  imposing  and  Santa  Barbara,  the 
most  perfectly  preserved,  will  suffice  the  casual  sightseer.  These  also  lie  com- 
paratively near  together,  and  are  all  easily  accessible;  the  first  three  being  lo- 
cated on  or  adjacent  to  the  railway  line  between  Los  Angeles  and  San  Diego, 
the  fourth  standing  but  a  few  miles  from  the  first  named  city,  and  the  fifth  be- 
ing almost  in  the  heart  of  the  famous  resort  that  bears  its  name. 

Reluctantly  will  the  visitor  tear  himself  from  the  encompassing  charm  of 
their  roofless  arches  and  reminiscent  shadows.  They  are  a  dream  of  the  Old 
World,  indifferent  to  the  sordidness  and  turbulence  of  the  New;  one  of  the  few 
things  that  have  been  spared  by  a  relentless  past,  whose  habit  is  to  sweep  the 
things  of  yesterday  into  oblivion.  Almost  can  one  hear  the  echoes  of  their  bells 
ringing  out  to  heathen  thousands  the  sunset  and  the  dawn. 

Returning  from  our  interesting  drive,  we  visited  the  beach ;  some 
donned  bathing  suits  and  entered  the  surf  while  others  sought  a  swim- 
ming pool  nearby.  Among  the  latter  were  Sirs  Reese  Tannehill,  Wil- 
liam G.  Lee  and  Robert  J.  Graham. 

The  three  pilgrims  were  equipped  with  bathing  suits  at  the  pool 
and  sought  their  respective  dressing  rooms.  Shortly  after,  Sirs  Reese 
and  Robert  emerged  and  splashed  gracefully  about  in  the  pool.  Evi- 
dently Sir  Lee's  appearance  had  been  delayed.  After  a  patient  wait  Sirs 
Reese  and  Robert  became  anxious  and  urgently  called:  "Hurry  up, 
Bill!"  for  the  hour  of  our  departure  was  near  at  hand  and  the  bath 
had  to  be  a  hurried  one.  But  "Bill"  never  answered. 

Meanwhile,  Sir  Lee  was  experiencing  a  most  trying  ordeal.  The 
young  lady  who  doled  out  the  bathing  suits,  had  made  a  grievous  error. 
She  had  given  him  a  boy's  size!  With  one  leg  and  one  arm  in  the 
suit,  and  a  portion  of  it  tightly  drawrt  over  his  face,  Sir  Lee  was 
vigorously,  but  unsuccessfully  struggling  in  his  dressing  room,  while 
Sirs  Tannehill  and  Graham  were  urging  him  to  appear.  In  vain  he 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        217 

tried  to  extricate  himself,  realizing  that  train  time  was  approaching  and 
fearing  that  he  would  be  left  behind  in  the  toils  of  one  half  of  a  bath- 
i:ig  suit. 

Meanwhile,  Sirs  Tannehill  and  Graham  had  leisurely  finished  their 
bath,  believing  Sir  Lee  had  withdrawn.  The  former  made  in- 
quiry at  the  door  of  Sir  Lee's  room,  and  hearing  a  noise  within,  entered 
and  rescued  their  brother  Sir  Knight  from  the  meshes  of  the  "youth's 
companion."  After  completing  his  dry  bath,  Sir  Lee  returned  his  suit 
to  the  lady  and  inquired  if  he  looked  like  an  infant.  "Why  I  gave  you 
a  boy's  suit — didn't  I,"  she  admitted  with  a  smile,  "do  you  want  your 
money  back?"  "Never  mind!  I  had  a  turkish  bath  that  was  worth  the 
money,"  replied  Sir  Lee  as  he  hurried  off. 

While  the  tragedy  of  Sir  Lee's  bath  was  being  enacted  at  the  swim- 
ming pool,  a  drama  of  a  reverse  nature  took  place  on  the  beach.  Sir 
Biddle,  who  is  very  fond  of  shells,  was  enjoying  himself  along  the 
water's  edge,  gathering  all  sorts  of  pretty  specimens.  He  had  ac- 
cumulated a  sufficient  number  to  test  his  carrying  ability,  when  he 
spied  an  exceptionally  fine  one  lying  a  few  feet  out,  where  the  surf 
was  scarcely  a  half  inch  deep.  Walking  out  boldly,  Sir  Biddle  did  not 
observe  the  playful  wave  which  was  stealthily  approaching  and  roll- 
ing shoreward  in  a  deceptive  manner.  Eventually  he  did  observe  it, 
but  not  until  it  came  upon  him  with  such  a  vigor  as  to  completely  en- 
velop him,  and  leave  standing  upon  the  shore  a  drenched  looking 
individual.  He  wrung  out  his  clothes  as  best  he  could,  and  lay  in  the 
sun  to  dry. 

Following  luncheon  at  Hotel  Potter,  the  signal  to  board  the  train 
was  given.  As  the  engineer  was  ready  to  pull  open  the  throttle,  a  call 
to  halt  was  heard,  coming  from  an  approaching  passenger  train.  Before 
we  could  give  our  visions  play,  we  heard  a  laugh — then  the  identity  was 
complete!  It  was  Sir  Oscar  Schulze  and  his  party.  They  had  heard 
the  call  while  still  at  luncheon,  immediately  ordered  a  carriage  and  gave 
instructions  to  be  driven  to  the  station.  There  were  two  stations,  and 
they  were  hurried  to  the  wrong  one,  and  found  another  train  ready  to 
pull  out.  Fortunately  it  was  compelled  to  make  a  stop  at  the  station 
where  our  "Special"  had  lain  in  waiting  and  they  realized  their  mistake 
in  time  to  hail  us  and  get  safely  within  the  fold  before  we  started.  There 
was  a  general  jollification  upon  finding  the  "lost"  members  of  our  "big, 
happy  family"  in  which  the  missing  shared  with  equal  enthusiasm  as 
those  who  had  been  temporarily  bereft. 

The  trip  from  Santa  Barbara  to  Los  Angeles  was  replete  with  inter- 
est and  offered  such  scenic  diversions  as  to  make  the  four  and  one-half 
hour  ride  a  pleasant  one. 

For  many  miles  the  train  hugged  the  ocean  shore,  and  for  a  stretch 


of  30  miles  we  were  at  the  very  edge  of  the  water,  affording  an  inter- 
esting view  of  sail  boats,  bathers  and  the  breakers.  Passing  through 
Summerland,  while  skirting  the  ocean,  we  were  afforded  one  of  the  most 
curious  sights  the  country  can  produce — that  of  oil  wells  in  the  ocean. 
Marine  oil  wells,  they  are  called.  Derricks  are  erected  out  in  the  water, 
and  stand  defiantly  as  the  breakers  dash  against  them.  From  a  distance 
and  to  the  unacquainted,  they  give  the  appearance  of  being  piers  for  some 
structure  to  be  erected  out  over  the  water.  It  is  said  that  the  oil  is  of 
high  grade  and  that  little  drilling  is  necessary,  because  it  lies  close  to 
the  surface.  From  Summerland  station  400,000,000  pounds  of  crude  oil 
were  shipped  during  the  year  1903. 

Sir  W.  G.  Reel,  (who  is  an  oil  operator)  in  whose  honor  we  had 
designated  oil  as  "the  Reel  thing,"  was  much  interested  in  the  marine 
oil  wells.  The  feat  of  procuring  oil  out  of  water  appealed  to  him  as 
a  profitable  undertaking,  and  he  declared  his  intentions  of  trying  it  when 
he  arrived  home. 

San  Buenaventura,  or  Ventura  as  it  is  more  commonly  called,  is  an 
interesting  town  of  5,000  inhabitants,  which  we  passed  before  sighting 
Montalvo,  where  is  located  one  of  the  largest  beet  sugar  factories  in  the 
world.  Nearby  is  Santa  Paula,  whose  fame  lies  in  its  orange,  lemon  and 
English  walnut  groves,  while  Sespe,  a  few  miles  distant,  is  an  oil  town. 

Camulos  is  "the  home  of  Ramona,"  for  it  was  in  the  old  Del  Valle 
home  in  this  place,  that  Mrs.  Helen  Hunt  Jackson  wrote  her  famous 
Indian  novel  of  that  name. 

After  viewing  "the  home  of  Ramona"  Johnston  gave  expression 
to  his  feelings  and  declared  that  he  felt  more  reconciled  to  his  own  birth- 
place. "Comparin'  de  house  where  I  wuz  born,"  he  said,  "I  ain't  got  no 
reason  fur  to  complain.  Ramoney  wuz  not  born  in  a  house  as  big  as  I 
wuz  and  fur  de  high  tone  of  front  yard  and  chicken,  I'se  got  'em  faded. 
De  day  am  not  far  away  dat  I'se  be  more  a  shinin'  light  to  de  literary 
world  as  Ramoney  ever  dreamed — What  you  think  Mas'er  Herbert?" 

"That's  right,  Johnston — give  me  a  ham  sandwich." 

With  but  rare  exception,  the  entire  length  of  track  from  Santa  Bar- 
bara to  Los  Angeles  was  lined  with  wild  and  cultivated  flowers,  while 
immense  palms  kept  company  with  the  track  most  of  the  way.  The 
effect  was  delightful,  with  the  restless  ocean  on  one  side,  and  the  many- 
colored  flowers  and  shrubs  on  the  other. 

Reaching  Saugus,  which  is  but  25  miles  from  Los  Angeles,  we 
caught  sight  of  the  immense  olive  groves,  which  comprise  several  thou- 
sand acres  with  more  than  100,000  full  bearing  trees.  Entering  the  San 
Fernando  Valley,  not  far  from  the  old  mission  of  that  name,  we  pass 
through  many  pretty  horticultural  communities,  the  way  leading  quickly 
to  the  much-lauded  city  of  fruit,  flower  and  sunny  clime;  of  mountain 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        219 

and  shore;  land  of  paradoxes,  where  winter  is  the  season  of  bloom  and 
fruitage,  and  summer  is  Nature's  time  for  slumber. 

The  metropolis  of  this  land  of  sunshine  and  productiveness  is  La 
Puebla  de  la  Nuestra  Senora  la  Reine  de  Los  Angeles,  or  "the  City  of 
Our  Lady,  the  Queen  of  the  Angels,"  a  lengthy  title  which  was  con- 
ferred during  Spanish  sovereignty,  and  which  the  matter-of-fact  Ameri- 
can very  wisely  shortened  into  Los  Angeles.  It  was  this  city  that  our 
"happy  family"  entered,  shortly  after  8  o'clock,  with  a  vivid  preconcep- 
tion of  the  splendors  and  interest  it  had  to  offer. 

Upon  our  arrival  we  sought  the  principal  streets,  to  stroll,  to  look 
and  to  admire.  The  city  was  well  lighted,  not  only  by  electricity  pro- 
vided for  that  purpose,  but  also  with  special  illuminations,  designed  in 
honor  of  the  visiting  Sir  Knights,  who  came  from  all  sections  of  the 
country  before  and  after  the  Conclave.  Los  Angeles  was  the  first  city 
in  the  United  States  to  entirely  abandon  gas  for  street  lighting  and  re- 
place it  with  electricity.  Many  of  the  lights  are  on  high  masts,  and  can 
be  seen  for  miles  around,  while  a  distant  view  of  the  city  at  night  is 
impressive. 

There  are  not  many  cities  in  the  United  States  that  have  had  such 
a  remarkable  and  varied  history  as  Los  Angeles,  the  chief  city  of  South- 
ern California,  and  the  commercial  metropolis  of  the  southwestern  cor- 
ner of  the  United  States.  Few  cities  of  this  size,  moreover,  are  so  well 
known  throughout  the  length  and  breadth  of  this  country  and  abroad. 
The  rapid  growth  of  Los  Angeles  from  an  insignificant  semi-Mexican 
town  to  a  metropolitan  city  has  been  told  and  retold,  until  it  is  familiar 
to  millions  of  Americans,  the  attractions  afforded  by  the  city  to  health 
seekers,  pleasure  seekers  and  tourists  have  been  spread  abroad  by  hun- 
dreds and  thousands  of  visitors,  who,  after  one  trip  to  this  section,  are 
in  most  cases  anxious  to  return,  and  frequently  become  permanent  resi- 
dents. 

During  the  last  20  years  Los  Angeles  has  grown  from  a  population 
of  11,000  in  1880  to  102,479  by  the  census  of  1900.  The  present  popu- 
lation is  estimated  at  150,000.  There  are  three  leading  features  that 
have  contributed  to  such  growth.  These  are  climate,  soil  and  location. 
Any  one  of  these  advantages  would  be  sufficient  to  build  up  a  large  city, 
but  taken  together  they  insure  the  future  of  Los  Angeles  as  the  metrop- 
olis of  the  southwestern  portion  of  the  United  States. 

Los  Angeles  was  founded  on  September  4,  1781,  by  a  small  band  of 
pobladores,  or  colonists,  who  had  been  recruited  in  the  Mexican  States 
of  Simaloa  and  Sonora,  and  brought  here  under  command  of  a  govern- 
ment officer  to  found  an  agricultural  colony  for  the  purpose  of  raising 
produce  for  the  soldiers  at  the  presidios.  The  first  census  of  the  little 
city  taken  in  1790  gave  the  total  population  as  141.  As  recently  as  1831, 


220        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

fifty  years  after  founding  the  pueblo,  the  population  was  only  770.  In 
January,  1847,  tne  population  was  1,500.  In  1880  business  was  dull 
and  there  was  no  sign  that  the  city  was  on  the  eve  of  a  marvelous  growth. 
Five  years  later,  on  November  9,  1885,  the  last  spike  was  driven  in  the 
Atlantic  and  Pacific  Railway  at  the  Cajon  Pass,  thus  completing  a  new 
overland  route  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific,  and  providing  Los  An- 
geles with  competition  in  overland  railroad  transportation.  From  that 
time  the  growth  of  the  city  was  wonderfully  rapid.  The  great  real  estate 
boom  of  1886-7  is  a  matter  of  history,  as  is  also  the  wonderful  manner 
in  which  Los  Angeles  held  up  under  the  reaction  that  inevitably  followed 
the  collapse  of  the  over  speculation  of  that  period. 

Considering  that  fifteen  years  ago  there  was  not  a  single  paved  street 
in  the  city,  Los  Angeles  has  made  a  remarkable  progress  in  street  im- 
provements. There  are  now  about  250  miles  of  graded  and  graveled 
streets,  over  20  miles  of  paved  streets,  nearly  400  miles  of  cement  and 
asphalt  sidewalk  and  175  miles  of  sewer.  Los  Angeles  has  a  complete 
sewer  system,  including  an  outfall  to  the  ocean. 

The  city  possesses  the  great  natural  advantage  of  being  situated  on 
the  shortest  route  by  the  easiest  grades,  between  the  Pacific  and  Atlantic 
Oceans.  The  merchants  of  Los  Angeles  do  a  large  business  with  a  sec- 
tion of  country  extending  from  the  eastern  limits  of  Arizona  to  Fresno 
on  the  north.  The  principal  articles  of  export  are  fruits,  fresh  and 
dried,  potatoes  and  vegetables,  beans,  wine  and  brandy,  wool,  honey, 
canned  goods,  sugar,  wheat,  corn  and  barley. 

For  a  dozen  years  past  Los  Angeles  has  been  the  scene  of  great 
activity  in  building  operations.  Scores  of  fine  business  blocks  and  hun- 
dreds of  handsome  residences  have  been  built.  The  value  of  the  build- 
ings erected  in  Los  Angeles  during  the  year  1903  amounted  to  over  $13,- 
000,000.  The  city  lies  about  midway  between  the  Sierra  Madre  range 
of  mountains  and  the  ocean,  and  about  300  feet  above  sea  level.  The 
Los  Angeles  River,  which  is  almost  devoid  of  water  during  the  summer 
but  is  sometimes  transformed  into  a  torrent  for  a  few  days  in  winter, 
runs  through  the  city  from  north  to  south.  In  the  northern  and  western 
portion  of  the  city  limits  are  hills  of  considerable  altitude,  from  which 
a  magnificent  view  may  be  obtained  of  the  surrounding  valleys,  with  the 
ocean  in  the  distance,  the  picture  being  framed  on  the  north  by  a  succes- 
sion of  grand  old  mountains. 

The  southern  and  southwestern  portions  of  the  city  are  level,  with 
a  gentle  slope  to  the  southwest.  Across  the  river  is  the  section  known 
as  Boyle  Heights,  a  high  gravelly  table  of  mesa  land. 

There  are  a  dozen  public  parks  within  the  city  limits,  aggregating 
over  600  acres,  of  which  six  are  of  considerable  size.  Westlake  Park, 
35  acres  in  area,  is  one  of  the  most  popular  open  air  resorts.  It  has  a 


LOS    ANGELES,    CALIFORNIA. 


9— The 
•om 
9— 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        221 

lake  with  boats,  fine  drives  and  extensive  views  from  the  adjacent  hills. 
Eastlake  Park  in  Los  Angeles  covers  50  acres  and  has  been  made  quite 
attractive.  Here  also  is  a  lake.  The  park  nurseries  are  located  here 
and  also  a  menagerie.  Prospect  Park,  on  Boyle  Heights,  is  a  small  but 
beautiful  place,  with  many  choice  trees  and  shrubs.  The  oldest  and 
best  improved  of  the  city  parks  on  Sixth  street,  not  far  from  the  busi- 
ness center,  is  known  as  Central  Park.  The  trees  have  attained  a  large 
growth.  Hollenbeck  Park  is  a  tract  of  about  20  acres,  on  the  east  side 
of  the  river  on  Boyle  Heights.  It  has  been  improved  with  shade  trees 
and  a  small  lake.  Echo  Park,  a  beautifully  improved  tract  in  the  north- 
western part  of  the  city,  contains  the  largest  body  of  water  in  Los  An- 
geles. Elysian  Park,  500  acres  in  area,  is  a  remnant  of  thousands  of 
acres  of  such  land  that  the  city  formerly  owned.  Much  of  the  land  is 
within  the  frostless  belt.  The  views  of  mountains,  valleys  and  ocean, 
city  and  plain  are  grand  in  the  extreme.  Griffith  Park,  a  tract  of  3,000 
acres,  was  donated  to  the  city.  It  is  located  about  a  mile  north  of  the 
city,  and  embraces  a  varied  assortment  of  mountain,  foothill  and  valley 
scenery.  A  boulevard  to  connect  the  parks  of  Los  Angeles  has  been 
commenced. 

The  excellent  electric  street  car  system  of  Los  Angeles,  which  is 
said  to  be  unexcelled  in  this  country,  has  done  much  to  encourage  the 
growth  of  the  city.  In  addition  to  the  lines  within  the  city  limits  the  sys- 
tem connects  with  Pasadena,  Santa  Monica,  San  Pedro,  Redonda,  Long 
Beach  and  Ocean  Park,  while  plans  have  been  adopted  which  promise 
450  miles  of  suburban  electric  roads  radiating  around  Los  Angeles  in  all 
directions. 

After  all  is  said  the  chief  attraction  of  Los  Angeles  to  new  arrivals, 
lies  in  its  beautiful  homes.  The  rare  beauty  of  the  grounds  surround- 
ing the  attractive  homes  of  Los  Angeles,  Pasadena  and  other  Los  An- 
geles county  cities  is  a  constant  theme  of  admiration  on  the  part  of  east- 
ern visitors.  A  majority  of  the  residences  stand  in  spacious  grounds,  a 
lot  of  50x150  feet  being  the  smallest  occupied  by  a  house  of  any  preten- 
sion, even  within  a  stone's  throw  of  the  business  streets.  Many  have  from 
one  to  five  acres  of  ground,  all  in  a  high  state  of  cultivation,  with  well 
kept  verdant  lawns,  upon  which  the  fig,  orange  and  palm  cast  a  grateful 
shade.  Along  the  sides  of  the  streets  shade  trees  are  also  the  rule,  the 
favorite  varieties  being  the  graceful  pepper,  which  grows  to  a  great  size, 
the  eucalyptus  and  the  grevilla. 

The  almost  universal  material  for  residences  in  Southern  California 
is  woodpine  and  redwood,  the  latter  being  used  altogether  for  outside 
and  largely  for  inside  finish.  This  material,  while  amply  sufficient  for 
the  climate,  lends  itself  to  graceful  decoration  undreamed  of  to  those 
who  have  been  accustomed  to  houses  of  brick  and  stone. 


222        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

The  development  of  the  horticultural  industry  of  Los  Angeles  dur- 
ing the  past  few  years  has  been  remarkable.  The  most  important  horti- 
cultural product  of  the  county  is  the  orange.  Other  fruits  raised  in  Los 
Angeles  are  the  lemon,  almond,  fig,  prune,  apricot,  walnut,  peach,  pear 
and  berries. 

The  shipment  of  citrus  fruits  from  Southern  California  points  for  a 
season  are  estimated  at  27,500  carloads.  A  large  portion  of  these  ship- 
ments are  contributed  by  Los  Angeles  county.  Floriculture  is  also  an 
important  and  rapidly  growing  industry  in  Southern  California. 

The  school  facilities  of  Los  Angeles  are  especially  good.  Besides 
the  complete  system  of  public  schools,  private  schools  and  colleges 
abound  in  Los  Angeles,  Pasadena  and  other  towns.  Most  of  the  leading 
religious  denominations  are  represented,  not  only  by  churches,  but  also 
by  one  or  more  religious  colleges. 

There  is  not  a  secret  society  of  any  importance  that  is  not  repre- 
sented. Los  Angeles  society  is  cosmopolitan,  every  State  in  the  Union, 
and  almost  every  country  in  the  world,  being  numerously  represented. 

To  find  evidences  of  the  old  Spanish  life  one  must  now  seek  in  the 
most  remote  corners  of  the  city.  One  can  find  the  Spanish  quarter,  and 
in  it  a  few  unkempt  houses  and  elements  of  the  picturesque.  One  may 
find  a  restaurant  or  two,  in  the  heart  of  the  city,  where  English  is  spoken 
and  broken  by  dark-skinned  girls  who  stand  ready  to  introduce  the  pat- 
rons into  the  mysteries  of  chili  con  carne,  frijoles,  or  tortillas. 

Senores,  senoras  and  senoritas  are  plentifully  encountered  upon  the 
streets,  but  are  not  in  general  distinguished  by  any  peculiarity  of  attire. 
Upon  the  borders  of  the  city  one  finds  more  vivid  types,  and  there  the 
jacal,  a  poor  mud  hovel  thatched  with  straw,  is  not  quite  extinct.  The 
words  Spanish  and  Mexican  are  commonly  used  in  California  to  distin- 
guish a  racial  difference.  Not  a  few  of  the  Spanish  soldiery  and  colo- 
nists originally  took  wives  from  among  the  native  Indians.  Their  off- 
spring has  had  its  charms  for  later  comers  of  still  other  races,  and  a  com- 
plexity of  mixture  has  resulted. 

The  term  Mexican  is  generally  understood  to  apply  to  this  amal- 
gamation, those  of  pure  Castilian  descent  preferring  to  be  known  as 
Spanish.  The  latter,  numerically  a  small  class,  represent  high  types, 
and  the  persistency  of  the  old  strain  is  such  that  the  poorest  Mexican 
is  to  a  certain  manner  born.  He  wears  a  contented  mein,  as  if  his 
Diogenes-tub  and  his  imperceptible  larder  were  regal  possessions,  and  he 
does  not  easily  part  with  dignity  and  self-respect. 

Returning  from  our  drive  we  sought  our  "Special,"  which  had  been 
side-tracked  for  the  night.  During  our  absence,  other  Commanderies, 
with  special  trains  had  arrived  and  soon  there  was  a  large  colony  of 
"hotels  on  wheels"  perched  about  on  all  available  sidings.  There  was  a 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        223 

great  advantage  in  these  movable  hostelries,  for  if  one  did  not  like  the 
neighborhood  in  which  his  hotel  was  situated,  it  could  quickly  and  easily 
be  moved. 

The  usual  "open  meeting"  was  held  in  our  commissary  car  that  night, 
though  not  with  the  extreme  enthusiasm  that  had  marked  these  occasions 
in  the  past,  for  everyone  was  more  or  less  fatigued  after  the  activities  of 
the  day. 

One  sad  feature  of  the  night  was  the  necessity  of  establishing  an 
emergency  hospital  on  board  the  train,  with  Sir  Kreps  as  house  physician, 
surgeon  and  nurse,  and  Sir  Biddle  as  the  patient. 

While  making  the  ride  from  Santa  Barbara  to  Los  Angeles  Sir  Bid- 
die  became  deeply  interested  in  the  many  specimens  of  cactus  growing 
along  the  track.  He  had  seen  cactus  before,  when  we  crossed  the  desert, 
but  he  did  not  know  "what  sort  of  an  animal"  it  was  at  close  range.  So 
he  decided  to  capture  one  "alive." 

When  the  "Special"  made  one  of  its  short  stops  en  route,  Sir  Biddle 
seized  his  long  waited  opportunity,  and  rushing  out  surrounded  a  cactus 
— with  his  hands.  Then  he  closed  in  upon  it  with  a  suddenness  that 
must  have  surprised  the  cactus,  as  much  as  the  cactus  surprised  him. 

"It  bit  me,"  he  yelled  as  he  rushed  to  the  train  firmly  clutching  the 
plant,  while  blood  flowed  from  the  many  wounds  made  by  the  sharp  and 
piercing  needles,  with  which  the  cactus  leaves  were  covered. 

He  was  given  temporary  relief,  but  that  night  aboard  the  train,  the 
wounded  hands  began  to  show  further  signs  of  inflammation  and  became 
quite  painful.  Sir  Kreps,  whose  reputation  as  a  poultice-maker  is  un- 
equaled,  and  whose  good-nature  is  boundless,  spent  the  greater  portion 
of  the  night  in  relieving  the  suffering  pilgrim,  and  it  must  be  said  in  all 
fairness  and  justice  to  Dr.  Kreps,  that  his  patient  survived  through  the 
night. 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 


UR  itinerary  for  the  day  included  a  visit  to  Mt.  Lowe,  Pasadena, 
and  the  Ostrich  Farm  at  South  Pasadena,  and  with  this  program 
before  us,  an  early  start  was  made.  After  a  delightful  car  ride 
which  carried  us  past  Pasadena  and  through  a  rich  agricultural 
country,  we  arrived  at  the  foot  of  Mount  Echo.  Here  we  boarded  the 
cable  incline  to  the  summit  of  that  mountain,  as  a  preparatory  trip  to 
Mt.  Lowe. 

The  ride  through  Rubio  Canyon  is  one  of  great  interest.    Beautiful 
view  of  valley  and  ocean  are  afforded  during  the  first  portion  of  the 


224        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

two  and  one-half  mile  ride,  and  as  the  route  enters  the  canyon,  pic- 
turesque rocks  and  streamlets  are  passed  and  crossed  until  the  cable 
incline  is  reached  at  a  point  2,200  feet  above  the  sea.  Trees,  shrubs, 
flowers  and  ferns  grow  in  wild  confusion  on  the  mountain  side,  while 
Mirror  Lake,  a  small  but  beautiful  body  of  water,  is  located  near  the 
foot  of  the  incline. 

The  cable  incline,  which  makes  the  sharp  ascent  up  Echo  Mountain, 
is  operated  by  the  novel  application  of  both  electric  and  water  power. 
It  is  3,000  feet  in  length  and  has  a  grade  of  62  per  cent.  The  steepness 
of  this  grade  can  better  be  realized,  when  one  understands  that  a  62 
per  cent  grade  means  a  rise  of  62  feet  in  going  forward  100  feet. 

The  view  in  ascending  is  indescribably  grand.  The  motion  of  the 
car  is  smooth.  At  first,  the  mountains  composing  the  Rubio  amphi- 
theater appear  to  rise  with  the  car.  Passing  through  Granite  Gorge — 
an  immense  cut  in  the  mountain  slope — and  over  Macpherson  trestle — 
a  bridge  200  feet  long — the  San  Gabriel  Valley  unfolds  its  incomparable 
charms,  and,  as  the  elevation  increases  the  view  expands  to  its  fullest 
glory. 

Once  upon  the  crest  of  Echo  Mountain,  the  discovery  is  made  that 
the  mountain  is  dissevered  from  the  main  range  with  the  exception 
of  a  small  "saddle."  The  view  of  the  ever  verdant  valleys,  cities,  towns, 
villages,  old  missions,  islands,  and  ocean  is  a  remarkable  one.  A  com- 
fortable hotel  is  located  on  the  mountain,  while  the  Lowe  Observatory 
is  situated  on  a  slope  above.  The  site  is  said  to  be  an  exceptionally 
good  one  for  astronomical  research.  Here  many  discoveries  have  been 
made,  under  the  direction  of  Prof.  Edgar  L.  Larkin. 

From  the  top  of  Echo  Mountain  begins  the  Alpine  division  of  the 
railroad  to  Alpine  Tavern;  a  section  of  electric  road  that  is  five  miles 
long,  and  without  exception  the  finest  scenic  railroad  in  this  or  any  other 
country.  Built  on  an  easy  grade,  over  a  road  bed  which  is  an  almost 
continuous  shelve  of  granite,  upon  which  rest  redwood  ties,  this  scenic 
railroad  winds  its  way  around  Mt.  Lowe,  leaping  ove'r  chasms  and 
canyons  by  means  of  unique  bridges,  circling  mountainous  projections, 
and  passing  through  granite  walls  and  offering  a  view  of  the  valleys 
and  country  thousands  of  feet  below.  Pikes'  Peak  and  other  noted 
mountain  tops  offer  enchanting  distant  views,  but  the  Mt.  Lowe  railroad, 
winding  itself  around  and  around  the  mountain  side,  offers  a  direct 
downward,  as  well  as  out-reaching  view,  that  is  distinctly  its  own. 
Whole  Southern  California  seems  spread  out  beneath.  Distant  Catalina 
Islands  and  the  more  remote  Channel  Islands,  off  Santa  Barbara,  are 
clearly  and  distinctly  in  view. 

The  cars  go  swinging  along  the  precipitous  flanks  of  the  rugged 
mountain  and  around  such  startling  curves,  bold  headlines,  sharp  angled 
rock  piles,  and  amazing  bridges  and  trestles,  that  the  unacquainted  is 


LOS    ANGELES-PASADENA-SAN     BERNARDINO-CORONADO-MT.    LOWE-CATALINA 
ISLANDS-SAN    DIEGO-SAN    PEDRO,    CALIFORNIA. 


5-io — Orange  Grove 


A 

C 

S 

G 

Mt.  Lowe  Road.    23 — C..   _„   . 

Catalina  Islands.      25— Avalon,  Santa  Catalina  Islands 

Flvins?  Fish.      37— Catalina  Tuna.      38— Arch  Rock.      28 


-Seal  Rocks— Catalina  Islands.     24— Caught  witn  roa  ana  n 

27— Sugar  Loaf,  Santa  Catalina  Islands.      35— Drive  to  Middle  Ranch.       36— 

—San  Diego,  Cal.    20— Street  Scene,  San  Diego,  Cal.     30— Inner  Harbor,  San 


yng      s          37-aana     una.          -c  .          -  ,        .  , 

Pedro      3i-San  Pedro  Harbor.     32-34-Boating  Terminal  Island.     33-Pomt  Firmm  Light  House,  San  Pedro. 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        225 

prone  to  suffer  fear  and  nervousness,  though  every  assurance  of  safety 
is  given.  On  portions  of  the  division,  loops  are  made  around  the 
canyons  in  such  number,  and  the  track  turns  and  twists  in  such  a  maze, 
that  at  times  one  can  look  down  and  count  nine  different  tracks  over 
which  the  car  has  passed  before  reaching  the  upper  altitude.  At  almost 
every  stage  of  the  journey  one  can  look  down  and  see  the  tracks  of  the 
road  passing  one  another. 

The  picturesque  route  is  through  dense  forests  of  luxuriant  wood. 
Foliage  is  heavy  and  sweet-smelling.  The  whole  journey  is  alluring 
and  thrilling.  On  one  side  of  the  road  there  rises  the  towering  moun- 
tain side,  while  on  the  other  lies  immeasurable  depths  that  find  their 
end  in  the  valleys  and  canyon-bottoms  below. 

For  the  first  half  mile  there  is  little  to  excite  the  passenger,  but  as 
the  cars  suddenly  begin  their  sharp  and  abrupt  climb,  one  enters  a 
veritable  world  of  shrubbery  and  woodland.  Spinning  around  the 
mountain  the  cars  shoot  ever  upward  zigzaging  over  trestles  and  bridges 
and  round  curves  innumerable. 

Twisting,  circling,  dodging,  but  ever  rising,  it  unthreads  the  skein 
whose  end  lies  in  the  clouds.  Skirting  over  the  open  slopes,  across  the 
ravines  and  canyons,  the  broad  plain  below  is  no  longer  a  fleeting  vista, 
but  a  broad  prospect.  You  can  see  the  forest  spilling  itself  upon  the 
field  as  you  look  far  below,  and  catch  a  faint  glimpse  of  the  Pacific  Ocean, 
which  appears  as  a  hazy  cloud  of  steel. 

Up  and  up  we  went,  holding  firmly  to  the  car  with  one  hand,  and 
clasping  our  hat  with  the  other.  At  Mt.  Lowe  Springs, a  point  5,000  feet 
above  sea  level,  the  unique  scenic  railway  came  to  an  end.  Here  is 
located  Alpine  Tavern,  a  cosy  Swiss-fashioned  hotel  nestling  in  the 
mountain  side,  and  about  1,000  feet  below  the  summit  of  the  mountain. 
About  the  tavern  grew  trees  in  the  wildest  profusion,  as  well  as  every 
variety  of  fern,  some  of  the  species  growing  to  the  height  of  a  man. 

Walks,  driveways  and  bridle  paths  led  the  visitor  from  the  hotel 
through  romantic  woodland.  Squirrels,  the  size  of  which  we  had  never 
seen,  pranced  about  playfully,  and  while  somewhat  tame,  did  not  place 
enough  confidence  in  man  to  approach  too  closely. 

An  interesting  example  of  the  taming  of  the  wild  was  exhibited  on 
the  balconies  of  the  hotel.  A  lady,  seated  reading  a  book,  held  a  piece 
of  sugar  in  the  palm  of  her  outstretched  hand.  Shortly,  several  birds  of 
various  species  were  attracted,  and  after  circling  about  in  smaller  and 
smaller  radius,  alighted  on  her  finger  and  ate  from  her  hand.  The  birds 
watched  her  face  intently,  and  when  she  looked  up  from  her  book  and 
at  them — off  they  flew.  Again  she  turned  her  eyes  to  her  book  and  the 
birds  were  back  again. 

After  an  interesting  jaunt  about  the  tavern  we  started  on  the  return 

(15) 


226        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

trip.  The  descent  was  not  less  interesting  than  the  ascent.  In  fact  there 
was  a  deeper  sense  of  the  thrilling,  as  we  went  whirling  down  the  moun- 
tain side  to  the  depths  below.  Arriving  at  the  foot  of  Mount  Echo,  we 
returned  over  the  same  route  which  we  came  and  stopped  at  Pasadena, 
a  thriving  modern  city  of  20,000  inhabitants.  For  the  origin  of  the 
name  you  may  choose  between  the  imputed  Indian  signification,  Crown 
of  the  Valley,  and  a  corruption  of  the  Spanish  Paso  de  Eden  (Threshold 
of  Eden).  It  is  in  any  event  the  crown  of  the  San  Gabriel  Valley,  which 
nestles  warmly  in  its  groves  and  rosebowers  below  lofty  bulwarks  tipped 
with  snow.  Here  an  eastern  multitude  makes  regular  winter  home  in 
modest  cottage  or  imposing  mansion.  Every  fruit  and  flower  and  every 
ornamental  tree  and  shrub  known  to  Southern  California  is  represented 
in  the  elaborate  grounds  of  this  little  realm.  It  is  a  playground  of 
wealth. 

Orange  Grove  avenue  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  residence 
thoroughfares  in  the  United  States,  or  in  any  other  country,  for  that 
matter.  The  magnificent  Raymond  Hotel  on  the  hill  is  a  prominent  land- 
mark for  many  miles  around.  The  Hotel  Green,  adjoining  the  depot 
of  the  Santa  Fe,  is  a  fine  specimen  of  California  architecture.  Another 
notable  edifice  is  Hotel  Maryland,  recently  built.  The  visitor  to  Pasadena 
finds  it  difficult  to  believe  that  less  than  thirty  years  ago  the  site  of  this 
beautiful  city,  then  known  as  the  San  Pasqual  rancho,  was  sbld  to  the 
"Indiana  Colony"  for  $5  an  acre,  and  the  seller  afterward  expressed 
contrition  at  having  taken  advantage  of  the  "tenderfeet"  in  charging  so 
exorbitant  a  price. 

One  of  the  most  pleasing  features  of  our  visit  to  Pasadena  was  the 
reception  tendered  us  and  hospitality  shown  by  the  local  Commandery. 
It  was  on  this  occasion  that  Sir  William  exhibited  a  staunch  temperance 
spirit,  that  could  not  have  been  put  to  a  more  severe  test.  He  visited 
one  of  the  wineries  whose  daily  capacity  was  75  tons  of  grapes.  Sir 
William  witnessed  the  process  of  making  wine  with  great  interest,  saw 
the  huge  casks  being  rapidly  filled,  and  where  sufficient  wine  was  stored 
to  supply  a  nation.  Then  he  went  to  the  Pasadena  Commandery  head- 
quarters to  secure  some  lemonade  and  cake. 

After  a  short  but  delightful  stay  in  Pasadena  we  visited  South 
Pasadena  and  Ostrich  Farm.  Amid  semi-tropical  surroundings  this 
unique  enterprise  finds  its  home.  In  1885  fifty  ostriches  were  imported 
from  Africa  and  formed  the  foundation  of  a  flock  that  numbered  250 
during  our  visit.  The  care  of  the  young,  and  the  method  of  extracting 
plumes  from  the  old,  were  of  much  interest.  The  chicks  are  fed  on 
gravel  during  the  first  few  days  and  seemed  to  thrive  on  it.  Spectators 
are  not  permitted  to  venture  near,  for  the  ostrich  often  becomes  angered^ 
and  when  so  aroused,  is  somewhat  dangerous.  They  also  have  a  great 
fancy  for  anything  that  shines,  and  are  inclined  to  steal  and  eat  such 


LOS    ANGELES,    CALIFORNIA. 

I — San  Gabriel  Mission.  2 — California  Poppy.  3 — Los  Angeles  -Mission  and  the  Plaza.  4 — Hollenbeck  Park.  5 — City  Park.  6 
— West  Lake  Park.  7-12-16 — East  Lake  Park.  8 — A  Cluster  ol  Oranges.  9 — Baldwin's  ranch,  showing  "  Lucky  "  Baldwin.  lo — A 
Rose  covered  Cottage.  11-14 — Higueroa  Street.  13 — A  Palm  Drive,  is — St.  James  Park.  17 — Residence  of  Paul  De  Longpre.  18 — A 
Typical  Southern  California  semi-tropic  scene.  19 — Palm  Avenue.  20 — Adams  Street. 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        227 

objects,  whether  they  be  portions  of  wearing  apparel  or  not.  Hanley 
would  not  venture  within  50  yards  of  an  ostrich  when  he  heard  of  their 
fondness  for  glittering  objects,  as  he  had  his  shoes  polished  prior  to 
leaving  Pasadena.  Johnston  held  his  hand  over  his  nose,  which  had 
become  sunburned  and  shone  like  Sir  Oscar's  stud. 

A  brick  is  just  as  toothsome  to  an  ostrich  as  a  plate  of  tri-colored 
ice  cream.  The  birds  swallow  everything  whole,  and  depend  upon  their 
stomachs  to  do  the  mastication  as  well  as  digestion.  Oranges  are 
gulped  down  whole,  without  the  formality  of  taking  off  the  rind.  We 
suggested  to  the  proprietor  that  he  take  his  birds  and  board  them  at 
the  inn,  on  the  border  of  the  Yellowstone  Park,  but  he  declared  that 
even  an  ostrich  might  die  of  shock. 

The  peculiarity  of  the  bird  in  swallowing  everything  whole,  is  clearly 
shown  by  the  bulge  in  the  side  of  the  neck  which  each  article  forms, 
before  it  works  its  way  down  into  the  stomach.  Some  were  leisurely 
walking  about  with  one  or  two  apparent  pouches  in  their  long  necks, 
while  others  wore  necks  that  looked  like  well-knotted  hickory  canes,  with 
big  bulges  here  and  there  on  both  sides.  Although  the  ostriches  at  the, 
Pasadena  farm  are  somewhat  tamed  by  confinement,  they  seemed  to 
consider  the  visiting  Sir  Knights  with  suspicion.  They  looked  upon 
Templars  as  their  natural  enemies,  because  of  their  display  of  plumes. 

Returning  to  Los  Angeles  we  sauntered  about  upon  the  cheerful, 
well-lighted  streets.  After  a  short  walk  we  came  upon  a  building  in  gala 
array.  A  banner  swung  across  the  thoroughfare,  announced  that  it  was 
the  Temple  of  Los  Angeles  Commandery,  No.  9.  Above  the  entrance 
hung  a  sign,  larger  by  far  than  the  banner,  which  read  "Welcome  Sir 
Knights."  But  the  broad  invitation  of  a  wide  sign  was  not  necessary  in 
this  case.  It  was  like  meeting  a  dear  old  friend.  The  boundless  hospi- 
tality of  Los  Angeles  Commandery,  No.  9,  was  a  fresh  memory.  We 
had  learned  to  know  our  Praters,  and  had  enjoyed  their  generosity  in 
the  Conclave  City. 

As  we  entered  the  open  door  we  became  immersed  in  a  flood  of 
light  and  brilliancy.  Everything  seemed  to  lift  itself  and  smilingly  say: 
"Pilgrim,  I  Greet  Thee."  The  whole  edifice  within  was  aglow.  Music 
filled  the  air.  The  sweet  aroma  of  fragrant  flowers  intoxicated  the 
senses.  For  14  days  and  nights  this  Commandery  kept  its  doors  wide 
open  to  the  visiting  Sir  Knights  from  all  sections  of  the  country,  and 
never  did  the  hospitality  waver  from  the  point  of  extravagant  liberality. 

We  were  ushered  into  a  spacious  banquet  hall,  where  an  elegant 
repast  was  spread.  A  corps  of  attendants  stood  ready,  not  only  to  cater 
to  our  needs  but  to  encourage  us  to  take  more  than  our  needs.  Beautiful 
floral  designs  and  decorations  stood  about  in  large  number.  Roses  and 
delicate  buds  were  virtually  showered  upon  us,  for  as  one  beautiful  piece 
was  plucked  apart  for  the  guests,  another  was  provided.  Tickets  of 


228        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

admission  and  transportation  to  various  resorts  and  pleasure  points,  were 
liberally  offered  to  the  visiting  Sir  Knights,  including  street  car  tickets. 

The  ladies  who  assisted  the  Los  Angeles  Sir  Knights  in  receiving, 
were  as  attentive  and  sisterly  as  the  most  liberal  application  of  those 
terms  can  convey.  Not  only  did  they  receive  our  ladies  with  a  hospi- 
tality that  was  entirely  free  from  formality,  but  they  also  received  the 
Sir  Knights  of  our  party  as  old-time  acquaintances. 

The  social  and  fraternal  kindness  shown  us  that  evening  by  every 
individual,  was  truly  beyond  any  anticipation.  It  is  no  exaggeration  to 
say  that  the  reception  accorded  us  was  one  of  the  most  liberal  throughout 
our  transcontinental  pilgrimage.  It  was  only  upon  our  announcement 
that  our  schedule  would  permit  us  to  remain  in  Los  Angeles  for  another 
day  or  two,  and  that  we  would  return  before  leaving  the  city,  that  our 
leave-taking  on  that  night  was  made  possible.  Under  these  conditions 
we  were  able  to  say  "good-night"  but  not  good  bye. 

As  we  reached  the  railroad  station  in  search  of  our  train,  to  retire 
for  the  night,  we  found  that  we  had  "moved"  again.  We  didn't  live  in 
the  same  neighborhood.  Trains  bearing  delegations  from  other  sections 
of  the  country  occupied  the  site  where  we  had  resided  during  the 
morning.  We  were  compelled  to  inquire  where  we  "lived." 

Finally  we  found  our  "Special."  We  had  moved  to  an  aristocratic 
community  and  were  located  on  a  siding  used  by  a  lard  refinery.  In  the 
morning  we  had  faced  a  foundry  and  saw  mill.  However,  knowing  that 
our  train  had  been  switched  back  and  forth  among  other  Knight  Templar 
"Specials,"  we  knew  that  we  were  "moving  in  good  society." 

A  thrilling  incident  occurred  in  the  "stag"  coach  that  night  which 
virtually  made  the  cold  chills  creep  upon  the  backs  of  many  of  the  occu- 
pants. It  was  all  due  to  a  cold  reception  which  the  "stag"  coach  dele- 
gation received. 

Two  of  the  pilgrims,  who  received  an  inspiration,  by  seeing  the 
trainmen  wheeling  cracked  ice  for  the  drinking  tanks,  managed  to 
"borrow"  a  tubful.  In  order  that  the  excitement  of  the  day  might  not 
overheat  the  blood  of  the  comrades  during  the  night,  they  distributed" 
the  ice  equally,  under  the  sheets  of  each  berth  in  the  "stag"  coach,  while 
occupants  were  innocently  discussing  in  the  commissary  car.  After  the 
Sir  Knights  had  retired  there  came  a  rude  awakening.  Some  declared 
that  ten  thousand  needles  pierced  them.  Others  announced  that  the  city 
was  immersed  in  a  flood.  Sir  Watson,  who  had  an  upper  berth,  called 
for  an  umbrella  to  keep  the  rain  from  coming  in  the  roof.  Only  one 
pilgrim  was  spared,  and  this  was  only  accomplished  by  the  heroic  action 
of  a  brother  Sir  Knight.  The  ice  distributor  had  entered  the  stateroom, 
occupied  by  "Kunnie,"  with  the  charitable  purpose  of  showing  him  the 
same  attention  the  others  had  received.  Once  within  the  apartment,  he 
was  encountered  by  Sir  "Bobbie"  who  guarded  his  sleeping  comrade 


229 

and  roommate  with  a  sincerity  that  would  have  driven  the  melodrama 
hero  to  blush.  No  logical  argument  on  the  part  of  the  ice  man  could 
induce  Sir  "Bobbie"  to  permit  his  comrade  to  be  sprinkled  with 
cracked  ice,  and  "Kunnie"  was  permitted  to  enjoy  the  sleep  of  the 
just  without  the  comforts  of  a  refrigerator  car. 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

HETHER  the  fates  willed  it  because  it  was  the  thirteenth  day  of 
the  month,  or  whether  it  was  merely  a  caprice  of  destiny  may  never 
be  known,  but  the  fact  remains  that  our  happy  band  of  pilgrims 
were  compelled  to  suffer  embarrassment  at  the  hands  of  a  confused 
laundryman. 

On  the  previous  morning,  a  well-meaning  young  man  called  upon  us 
and  had  politely  solicited  the  laundry  of  our  party  in  behalf  of  his  firm, 
who  washed  for  a  living.  His  promise  to  return  the  linens  the  same  day 
was  an  inducement  that  won  him  our  business.  We  gave  him  everything 
wearable  that  could  be  spared;  retaining  only  essential  articles  for  the 
day's  wear.  But  when  night  came,  it  came  without  the  laundry  or  the 
laundryman. 

However,  early  on  this  morning  there  came  a  delivery  of  bundles  to 
our  "Special"  that  looked  like  an  army  equipment.  In  fact  the  bundles 
returned  seemed  so  many  more  than  those  sent,  that  we  had  a  suspicion 
that  the  fertile  climate  of  Southern  California  had  induced  our  linen  to 
multiply  upon  contact  with  water. 

Some  time  after  the  delivery  was  made  and  the  bundles  had  been 
distributed,  the  awful  truth  dawned  upon  us.  Our  laundry  had  become 
confused  with  that  of  a  visiting  circus,  and  we  were  destined  to  either  re- 
main "at  home"  or  appear  only  in  the  sawdust  ring.  While  we  deeply 
sympathized  with  the  bareback  riders,  clowns,  and  acrobats  who  at  the 
same  time  might  be  struggling  into  sane  clothing,  we  were  compelled  to 
take  a  selfish  view  of  the  situation,  and  consider  what  an  embarrassment 
it  would  be  to  wear  the  costumes  we  had  received,  without  the  use  of 
make-up  paint. 

Sir  Oscar,  who  had  entrusted  the  laundry  with  cleaning  three 
pairs  of  flannel  trousers  and  several  suits  of  underwear,  had  received  in 
return  a  pair  of  lavender  tights  which  had  evidently  been  built  for  the 
"living  skeleton"  or  the  "ossified  man."  Knowing  that  lavender  was  not 
favorable  to  his  complexion,  Sir  Oscar  refused  to  wear  the  tights  in 
public. 


230        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

Sir  Frederick  W.  received  a  pair  of  drawers  which  were  constructed 
on  a  new  plan.  They  consisted  of  two  white  ruffle-cuffed  absurdities, 
hitched  together  at  the  top  with  a  narrow  band;  and  when  applied,  they 
did  not  come  down  to  his  knees.  They  were  pretty  enough,  but  made 
him  feel  like  two  persons,  and  much  disconnected  at  that.  He  didn't 
appear  to  be  related  to  himself  when  he  tried  them  on. 

The  shirt  they  brought  Sir  Reel  was  shorter  than  Sir  Frederick's 
drawers,  and  hadn't  any  sleeves — at  least  it  had  nothing  more  than  what 
could  be  called  "rudimentary  or  undeveloped"  sleeves.  Fancy  "edging" 
ran  around  the  arm  pits,  where  the  sleeves  had  been  amputated,  and  the 
bosom  was  cut  ridiculously  low.  When  Sir  Reel  tried  it  on  he  found 
that  it  was  cut  too  high  at  the  bottom  and  too  low  at  the  top — but  how 
it  did  stretch! 

The  knit  silk  underskirt  that  was  brought  Sir  Gilland  in  exchange 
for  four  dozen  collars,  was  really  a  sensible  thing.  It  opened  behind,  and 
had  pockets  in  which  to  put  your  shoulder  blades.  It  was  a  beautiful, 
deep  rich  red  in  color,  and  was  so  tastefully  pleated  and  ruffled  that  it 
would  not  have  appeared  absurd  on  the  street — providing  something  was 
worn  to  cover  it. 

Sir  Greenawalt,  who  had  sent  four  neckties  and  three  dozen  hand- 
kerchiefs to  the  laundry,  drew  as  his  prize  package  a  linen  duster,  that 
had  either  been  tailored  to  fit  the  elephant,  or  was  intended  as  a  covering 
for  one  of  the  circus  wagons.  Sir  Otto  made  a  tent  out  of  it,  and  crawl- 
ing under,  avoided  catching  cold  until  his  proper  laundry  was  returned. 

Sir  Gilchrist,  who  wears  a  No.  17  shirt,  when  the  laundry  is  not 
working  on  it,  received  a  boy's  waist  with  nice  white  pearl  buttons  around 
the  bottom  and  a  pretty  sailor  collar  at  the  top.  Unable  to  don  the  dainty 
little  creation,  Sir  Joseph  tied  the  arms  of  the  waist  around  his  neck  and 
managed  to  wear  the  collar.  He  made  the  cutest  little  "Bo  Peep"  that 
Los  Angeles  ever  entertained. 

Sir  Burry  had  his  sweater  washed!  If  there  is  any  doubt  in  the 
reader's  mind,  the  fact  can  be  confirmed  by  making  an  investigation  of 
the  records  of  the  Los  Angeles  laundries.  Whether  it  was  rejected  by 
the  circus  crew,  because  it  was  too  sensational,  is  not  known;  at  any 
rate  it  was  among  the  very  few  pieces  properly  returned  to  our  train. 
However,  when  Sir  Edward  and  the  sweater  looked  into  each  other's 
faces  there  was  no  sign  of  recognition.  Instead  of  the  attractive  striped 
bars  which  had  made  the  sweater  famous  throughout  the  west,  it  had 
changed  into  a  blending  rainbow  effect,  and  gave  evidence  that  it  had 
been  weeping  long  and  piteously.  Sir  Edward  was  so  moved  that  he 
clasped  the  sweater  to  his  breast,  and  the  sweater  put  its  arms  around 
Sir  Edward. 

Sir  Kunberger  had  sent  the  laundry  "an  awful  lot"  of  shirts — but 
they  were  both  missing.  When  he  opened  his  package  he  found  a  pink  hair 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        231 

ribbon,  two  pair  of  "open-work"  stockings  and  a  "cutaway"  waist  that 
glistened  with  spangles.  The  waist  was  so  "cut  away"  that  anyone 
attempting  to  put  it  on,  would  have  fallen  out  of  it,  were  it  not  for  the 
shoulder  straps.  "Kunnie"  tried  it  on  but  the  spangles  would  not  match 
the  pink  hair  ribbon,  which  he  was  compelled  to  wear  around  his  neck 
for  a  collar. 

Sir  Walter  received  a  Navajo  blanket  and  two  doilies  in  exchange 
for  all  the  linen  he  had.  The  blanket  appeared  as  if  it  had  covered  a 
multitude  of  sins,  and  if  the  doilies  had  only  been  feathers  he  might  have 
assumed  the  role  of  "Sitting  Bull."  He  was  the  best  dressed  man  on 
board  the  train — nothing  flashy  about  his  attire,  but  more  genteel  than  his 
comrades. 

Sir  Flechsig  wouldn't  have  cared  so  much  about  losing  a  dozen  col- 
lars, four  shirts,  two  suits  of  underwear  and  eight  handkerchiefs  if  he 
hadn't  received  a  brick-red  flannel  undershirt  in  return.  It  was  so  heavy 
that  he  could  hardly  wear  it,  and  the  red  was  so  violent  that  he  feared  he 
would  catch  fire  if  he  put  it  on.  So  he  opened  a  window  and  tacked  the 
red  shirt  to  the  sill,  as  a  signal  of  distress.  A  few  moments  later  several 
strangers  walked  into  the  car  and  inquired  when  the  auction  would  take 
place.  Then  Sir  Herman  brought  down  his  flag  to  half-mast. 

Nothing  was  received  by  Sir  Craig  but  the  promise  of  an  investiga- 
tion. He  couldn't  wear  that  without  causing  talk,  so  Burry,  in  the  kind- 
ness of  his  heart,  allowed  him  to  wear  the  sweater,  that  he  could  at 
least  sit  up  in  bed. 

Sir  Watson  gleefully  unwrapped  a  package  of  collars,  with  the  hope 
that  he,  at  least,  had  received  conventional  attire.  Unfortunately  they  were 
four  sizes  too  large  for  him,  but  with  the  aid  of  a  safety  pin  he  managed 
to  keep  one  from  falling  over  his  shoulders.  In  the  absence  of  any  means 
by  which  to  fasten  the  collar  at  the  back,  it  continually  worked  its  way 
up  the  back  of  his  neck  until  it  looked  like  the  strap  on  a  guardsman's 
helmet,  and  interfered  with  jaw  movement. 

Other  members  of  the  party  received  souvenirs  in  return  for  their 
garments  that  were  more  interesting  than  serviceable,  and  when  the 
"third  and  last  call"  to  breakfast  was  heard,  the  consternation  that  pre- 
vailed in  the  "stag"  coach  was  beyond  the  power  of  description. 

The  predicament  in  the  "stag"  coach  was  a  serious  one.  With  nearly 
all  the  linen  of  the  whole  party  in  the  hands  of  the  laundry,  or  more 
likely,  in  the  hands  of  the  circus  troupe,  we  were  not  prepared  to  receive 
visitors. 

We  were  too  loose  in  some  places  and  too  tight  in  others,  and  all 
together  we  felt  slovenly  and  ill  conditioned.  There  was  one  advantage 
that  all  enjoyed.  No  one  at  the  breakfast  table  that  morning  was  better 
dressed  than  the  other.  Everyone  had  someone  else's  clothes  on,  in  part 
or  in  whole.  It  appeared  as  if  a  congress  of  nations  was  feasting.  How- 


232        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

ever,  everything  but  the  costumes  and  their  colors,  harmonized.  Sir 
Craig,  who  had  received  nothing  but  a  promise,  managed  to  get  to  the 
breakfast  table  through  the  kindness  of  Sir  Greenawalt,  who  brought 
him  along  under  his  roomy  linen  duster.  Sir  Flechsig,  who  had  received 
the  red  flannel  undershirt,  did  not  come  to  the  table  at  all,  but  sent  word 
that,  while  he  was  not  more  particular  in  his  dress  than  his  companions, 
he  had  never  carried  the  hod,  and  was  sure  that  a  guest  at  the  table  wear- 
ing a  red  undershirt  would  excite  remark. 

Fortunately,  the  laundry  authorities  (having  discovered  their  error) 
paid  an  urgent  call  shortly  after  breakfast,  and  presented  us  with  our 
missing  garments.  They  explained  that  the  moving  of  our  "Special"  and 
the  transfer  of  a  circus  train  upon  the  siding  formerly  occupied  by  us, 
had  led  to  the  unfortunate  error;  as  the  only  address  by  which  we  were 
identified  was  the  street  opposite  which  our  "Special"  was  originally  sta- 
tioned. 

Several  of  our  Sir  Knights  had  formed  such  a  "strong  attachment" 
to  the  circus  clothing  that  they  could  not  easily  part  with  it.  For  instance, 
Sir  Oscar,  who  tried  on  the  lavender  tights  was  so  attached  to  them  that 
it  required  the  efforts  of  three  companions  to  get  them  off.  Not  that 
he  wasn't  willing,  but  the  tights  clung  affectionately  to  him.  Sir  Lee's 
sympathies  went  out  to  Oscar,  as  his  experience  with  the  Santa  Barbara 
bathing  suit  gave  a  keen  realization  of  Oscar's  predicament. 

After  making  the  necessary  changes  in  clothing,  we  were  prepared 
to  make  the  day's  pilgrimage  which  promised  to  carry  us  through  some 
of  the  many  attractive  resorts  and  suburbs  of  Los  Angeles.  The  seaside 
resorts  in  the  vicinity  are  easily  accessible  and  are  largely  patronized. 
The  oldest  is  Santa  Monica,  which  is  not  only  a  seaside  resort,  but  a 
good-sized,  modern  city  as  well.  To  the  south  is  Ocean  Park,  and  imme- 
diately to  the  north,  Port  Los  Angeles.  All  three  offer  the  pleasures  of 
seaside  life. 

En  route  to  Santa  Monica  we  passed  through  Swatelle,  where  stands 
the  Pacific  branch  of  the  National  Soldiers'  Home.  Upwards  of  2,000 
veterans  were  making  their  home  there  during  our  visit.  The  home  has  a 
farm  of  500  acres  adjoining  and  extensive  grounds  rich  in  floral  beauty 
surround  the  premises. 

Playa  Del  Rey  is  the  name  of  the  new  beach  resort  which  is  rapidly 
being  beautified.  Among  its  attractions  is  a  lagoon  whose  waters  are 
smooth  and  wide.  It  is  two  miles  long  and  is  devoted  to  boat  racing. 
From  Playa  Del  Rey  we  took  a  seaside  trolley  ride  of  twelve  miles  to 
Redondo,  one  of  the  most  popular  seaside  resorts  on  the  Pacific  coast. 

Redondo  is  famed  as  a  fishing  resort  and  black  bass  weighing  from 
300  to  500  pounds  have  frequently  been  caught  in  its  waters.  Fishing  by 
moonlight  is  one  of  the  summer  attractions.  Swimming,  bathing,  boat- 
ing and  beach-combing  are  among  the  other  popular  diversities.  Great 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        233 

shiploads  of  lumber  are  loaded  here,  and  passenger  steamers  make  regu- 
lar stops.  Redondo  has  fine  hotels  and  many  handsome  cottages,  and 
among  its  beauty  spots  is  a  carnation  garden  of  several  acres.  Near 
Redondo  is  Hermosa  Beach,  a  summer  resort  rather  than  a  pleasure 
resort,  where  families  of  Los  Angeles  merchants  summer  in  large 
numbers. 

Sirs  Bovard,  Reel,  Shook  and  Jack  bathed  so  long  at  Redondo  that 
the  sun  burned  them  to  a  color  which  is  distinctly  that  of  the  boiled  lob- 
ster. They  each  wore  a  hugh  straw  bathing  hat  that  looked  like  an 
inverted  bushel  basket. 

No  one  appreciated  the  beauty  of  their  costumes  any  more  than  they 
did  themselves,  and  in  order  not  to  rob  "the  folks  at  home"  of  the  treat, 
they  sought  a  photographer  and  had  their  pictures  taken  ensemble.  It 
was  indeed  unfortunate  that  they  were  compelled  to  remove  their  bathing 
suits  before  leaving,  for  when  the  tight-fitting  garments  were  slowly 
peeled  off,  the  sunburnt  skin  of  the  bathers  came  off  with  them  in  large 
patches.  Sir  Reel  devoted  his  time  at  the  beach  in  hunting  moonstones, 
which  were  among  the  pebbles  cast  up  by  the  waves,  and  proved  himself 
a  star  in  his  astronomical  pursuit  of  seeking  moonstones  by  sunlight. 

Among  other  attractive  resorts  and  pleasure  spots  lying  within  a 
narrow  radius  are  Hollywood,  Manhattan  Beach,  Long  Beach,  Brigh- 
ton Beach,  Alhambra,  Wilson  Peak  Park,  Monrovia,  Pomona,  Idyllwild, 
and  the  old  mission  town  of  San  Gabriel.  This  mission  was  founded  by 
the  Franciscan  monks  in  1771,  and  the  old  building  is  finely  preserved. 
The  mission  grape  vine  is  more  than  100  years  old,  and  never  fails  to  bear 
a  heavy  vintage. 

While  the  greater  number  of  our  pilgrims  gave  themselves  over  to 
a  visitation  of  these  many  resorts,  a  number  spent  the  day  in  a  visit  to 
San  Diego,  that  Southern  California  city  which  is  as  beautiful  as  it  is 
important.  With  a  fine  harbor,  and  nestling  on  a  slope  that  rises  from 
the  water's  edge  to  a  high  summit,  San  Diego  enjoys  a  rare  location. 
With  valleys  of  enormous  fruit-bearing  orchards  on  one  side  and  lofty 
mountains  on  the  other,  and  with  ocean  and  the  San  Diego  river  in  close 
touch,  the  city  enjoys  rich  advantages.  Its  hotels  are  many  and  luxuri- 
ant. Then  there  is  Coronado.  A  city  of  tents  but  a  mile  away,  which 
faces  the  ocean  and  offers  all  the  pleasures  of  a  popular  resort  and  with 
all  the  beauty  of  a  summer  home. 

Nothwithstanding  the  activities  of  the  day,  it  was  not  an  exhausted 
band  of  pilgrims  that  found  its  way  back  into  the  fold,  in  the  city  of  Los 
Angeles,  at  night.  Whether  it  was  the  admirable  climate  or  something 
in  the  rarefied  air,  the  fact  remains.  Following  dinner,  we  again  sought 
our  old  friends — Los  Angeles  Commandery,  No.  9.  The  Temple  stood 
aglow  in  all  the  splendor  we  had  seen  the  night  before.  The  same  hospi- 
tality reigned  supreme.  Aided  by  scores  of  pretty  girls  and  handsome 


234        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

matrons,  the  Sir  Knights  were  anxious  to  receive  us,  and  offer  their  well- 
known  generosity.  Music  and  the  scent  of  flowers  lent  charm  to  the 
surroundings,  while  dancing  and  other  forms  of  entertainment  were  lav- 
ishly provided. 

An  incident  which  indicates  the  liberality  and  kindness  with  which 
the  visiting  Sir  Knights  were  received  by  all  classes  and  all  interests  in 
Los  Angeles,  can  be  cited  in  a  courtesy  which  was  enjoyed  by  Sir  Schulze 
and  his  party,  while  returning  from  the  Masonic  Temple  that  night.  The 
party  was  late  in  leaving,  and  sought  the  railroad  station  to  board  the 
"Special"  for  the  night.  Taking  the  first  street  car  that  came  along,  the 
pilgrims  asked  the  conductor  to  leave  them  off  at  the  railroad  station. 
He  informed  them  that,  at  that  hour,  his  car  would  come  to  the  end  of 
its  route  about  six  blocks  from  the  station.  "But,"  continued  the  con- 
ductor, "I  see  you  are  visitors  and  we  want  to  treat  you  right.  I  will 
carry  you  there  on  my  own  account,  for  I  know  the  company  wants 
to  treat  you  right."  The  car  outran  its  terminal  and  carried  the  party 
to  its  destination. 

Guests  at  the  "Hotel  De  Car"  were  late  in  returning  that  night,  but 
this  was  charitably  excused  because  of  the  fact  that  the  "hotel"  had 
changed  its  location  so  often  that  the  guests  possibly  might  have  become 
confused.  However,  the  right  quarters  could  have  been  detected  from  the 
outside,  by  the  murmurings  of  a  "council  of  war"  which  was  being  held 
in  the  commissary  car.  An  outline  of  attack  for  the  morrow  was  being 
mapped  out,  when  the  terrible  truth  dawned  upon  us  that  we  had  no 
leader.  It  was  a  kingdom  without  a  king,  and  an  election  was  promptly 
held.  Owing  to  the  fact  that  he  was  not  present  to  resent  it,  Sir  Joseph 
J.  was  unanimously  chosen  for  the  distinction.  It  was  a  mean  advantage 
to  take  as  he  lay  peacefully  sleeping  in  his  berth  in  the  "stag"  coach. 

Once  named  as  king,  thoughts  turned  to  the  fact  that  he  was  un- 
crowned. It  was  only  after  a  consultation  with  Johnston,  that  possibili- 
ties offered  themselves.  (Nothing  is  dearer  or  more  sacred  to  the  heart 
of  a  loyal  colored  gentleman  than  a  watermelon,  and  Johnston's  ingenuity 
turned  to  that.)  His  suggestion  was  accepted  and  we  at  once  performed 
the  delicate  operation  of  dissecting  a  huge  watermelon  by  cutting  it  in 
half,  and  carving  out  the  interior. 

With  great  solemnity  a  committee  was  appointed  to  crown  the  king, 
and  treading  softly  to  his  couch,  we  placed  the  inverted  half  watermelon 
rind  over  his  imperial  dome  of  thought.  The  fatigue  of  the  day,  the  vig- 
orating  night  air,  and  the  comforting  assurance  of  duty  well  done,  and  the 
approval  of  friends,  had  lulled  him  into  a  gentle  repose.  Anyone  who 
might  have  looked  upon  him  as  he  lay  there  in  that  innocent  slumber, 
with  the  winsome  mouth  slightly  ajar,  while  a  merry  smile  now  and  then 
flitted  across  the  regular  features,  would  have  said  that  no  heart  could 
be  so  hard  as  to  harbor  ill  for  one  so  guileless  and  so  innocent.  Occasion- 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        235 

ally  he  let  a  sigh  of  blessed  relief,  such  as  a  woman  might  heave  after 
she  has  returned  from  church  and  transferred  herself  from  the  embrace 
of  a  castiron,  glove-fit,  tailor-made  gown  into  a  friendly  wrapper.  Regu- 
larly, like  the  rise  and  fall  of  the  waves  at  the  Cliff  House,  it  rose  and 
fell.  It  is  true  that  the  crown  was  not  so  good  a  fit  as  it  might  have  been, 
and  that  it  covered  more  of  his  face  than  it  did  his  head,  but  the  honor 
was  there.  After  performing  the  coronation  we  retired  and  left  the  king 
to  dream  of  his  glory. 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 

HAT  was  our  surprise  on  the  following  morning,  when  we  found 
the  new  king  still  sleeping  with  the  crown  on  his  head.  True,  it 
was  tilted  a  little  over  his  left  ear,  in  a  manner  that  would  hardly 
have  been  considered  dignified  in  court  circles,  but  our  "king  could 
do  no  wrong!"  To  show  our  loyalty  as  his  respectful  subjects,  we  decided 
to  awaken  him  with  a  pleasing  serenade. 

Promptly  at  8:30  o'clock  we  boarded  the  train  for  San  Pedro,  en 
route  to  Santa  Catalina  Island  and  the  famous  Marine  Gardens.  The  Salt 
Lake  Route,  over  which  we  traveled,  finds  it  most  important  connection 
between  Los  Angeles  and  San  Pedro,  the  terminal  of  the  Wilmington 
Transportation  Company,  whose  steamers  ply  daily,  throughout  the  year, 
from  San  Pedro  to  the  islands. 

San  Pedro  is  a  port  whose  future  offers  boundless  opportunities.  It 
is  through  this  harbor  that  Los  Angeles  will  ship  to  the  Orient,  and 
which  will  open  all  Southern  California  and  the  southwestern  portion  of 
the  whole  country  and  afford  an  outlet  to  the  Far  East,  Hawaii  and  the 
Panama  Canal  trade.  During  our  visit  the  government  was  construct- 
ing a  $3,000,000  breakwater  two  miles  long,  to  protect  the  harbor,  and 
when  this  is  completed  the  inner  harbor  of  San  Pedro  will  embrace  a 
water  front  of  II  miles,  suitable  for  the  dockage  or  sea-going  vessels. 
The  town  is  a  growing  one,  and  is  engaged  chiefly  in  marketing  oysters, 
sardines,  lobsters  and  all  sea  foods  in  a  large  commercial  way. 

Arriving  at  San  Pedro,  one  of  the  Santa  Catalina  steamers  was  in 
waiting.  The  ocean  trip  is  one  and  one-half  hours  duration,  and  is  highly 
enjoyable.  A  beautiful  view  of  the  Southern  California  coast  line  is 
afforded,  and  while  all  sorts  of  objects  of  interest  command  the  attention 
of  the  steamer  passengers,  there  is  none  so  fascinating  or  novel  as  the 
flying  fish,  which  are  seen  in  large  numbers. 

When  but  a  few  miles  out  from  the  mainland  these  marvelous  fish 


236        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

can  be  seen  leaping  from  beneath  the  bow  of  the  steamer,  singly,  in  pairs 
and  by  the  dozen,  until  one  wearies  in  counting  them.  They  skim  over 
the  waves  in  graceful  curves  and  their  length  of  flight  varies  from  10  to 
500  yards,  and  often  greater  distances.  In  size,  shape  and  color  the  flying 
fish  are  very  similar  to  the  mackerel.  Its  "wings"  are  muscular  fins  whose 
spines  are  connected  by  a  light  membrane,  and  are  four  in  number.  The 
hindermost  pair  are  quite  small,  mere  butterfly  wings  of  stout  fiber;  the 
foremost  pair  attain  a  length  of  seven  or  eight  inches,  and  when  extended 
are  two  inches  or  more  in  breadth.  Breaking  from  the  water  at  a  high 
rate  of  speed,  but  at  a  very  low  angle,  the  flying  fish  extend  these  wing- 
like  fins  and  holds  them  rigid,  like  the  set  wings  of  a  soaring  hawk.  With 
the  lower  flange  of  its  deeply  forked  tail,  which  at  first  drags  lightly,  it 
sculls  with  a  convulsive  wriggle  of  the  whole  body  that  gives  it  the  casual 
appearance  of  actually  winging  its  way.  The  additional  impulse  thus 
acquired  lifts  it  entirely  out  of  the  water,  over  whose  surface  it  then  glides 
without  further  effort  for  a  long  distance,  until,  losing  in  momentum 
and  in  the  sustaining  pressure  of  the  air  beneath  its  outstretched  fins,  it 
again  touches  the  water,  either  to  disappear  abruptly  or  by  renewed 
sculling  to  prolong  its  flight.  Whales  of  great  size  are  often  seen  along 
the  route  of  these  steamers,  but  it  was  not  our  privilege  to  observe  any 
during  the  trip. 

Arriving  at  the  largest  of  the  Santa  Catalina  Islands,  we  steamed  into 
a  beautiful  bay,  which  was  a  concaved  semi-circle  in  shape.  The  island 
itself  is  22  miles  long  and  includes  40,000  acres,  in  the  shadow  of  moun- 
tains that  almost  completely  encircle  it.  It  is  known  as  Avalon. 

Upon  landing,  the  steamer  was  surrounded  by  scores  of  boys,  many 
of  them  in  skiffs,  and  others  swimming  in  the  water — all  shouting :  "Got 
any  change,  mister  ?"  "Got  any  change,  mister  ?"  and  urging  us  to  throw 
coins  into  the  bay  and  see  them  dive  after  them. 

Shivering  incessantly,  and  with  chattering  teeth  and  deep-blued  lips, 
these  little  fellows,  clad  only  in  tights,  make  a  business,  if  not  a  profes- 
sion, of  diving  for  money  thrown  from  the  steamers  by  daily  visitors, 
spending  hours,  and  often  a  whole  day,  in  the  water. 

We  acquiesced  with  their  demands  and  threw  out  several  coins.  So 
perfectly  clear  is  the  water  that  the  bottom  can  be  seen.  All  the  lads 
were  expert  divers  and  never  failed  to  get  the  coins,  coming  up  with  them 
in  their  mouths.  In  fact  the  only  purse  they  used,  or  could  use,  were 
mouth  purses.  They  kept  up  their  call  for  "more  change"  when 
their  mouths  were  so  full  that  their  words  were  scarcely  audible;  this 
compelled  them  to  make  all  sorts  of  grimaces  in  shouting,  without  drop- 
ping money  from  their  mouths. 

Some  of  the  lads  were  cunning  enough  to  catch  their  coins,  long  be- 
fore they  had  sunk  to  the  bottom,  but  would  throw  their  legs  half  out  of 
the  water  and  dive  deep  to  give  the  impression  that  they  had  gone  to  the 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        237 

bottom.  Frequently,  an  exciting  scramble  under  water  for  the  possession 
of  a  coin  lent  zest  to  the  performance,  and  as  a  whole  we  enjoyed  the 
sport  as  much  as  the  boys. 

On  the  pier  we  at  once  became  the  objects  of  persistent  attention  by  a 
hundred  boatmen,  who  hawked  at  us  like  the  inevitable  hackman  at  a 
railroad  station,  and  grasping  us  familiarly  by  the  coat  lapel,  shouted: 
"Glass  bottom  boat  ?"  "Glass  bottom  boat,  sir  ?" 

These  glass  bottom  boats  offer  the  chief  interest  in  a  visit  to  Santa 
Catalina  Islands.  They  are  small  crafts,  usually  propelled  by  oar,  though 
some  are  sail  boats,  and  a  few,  steam  launches.  In  every  instance  the 
seats  are  arranged  around  the  edge  of  the  boat  in  elliptical  shape,  while 
the  center  of  the  bottom  drops  down  under  water  containing  a  clear 
slab  of  plate  glass.  To  protect  this  "pit,"  and  to  afford  the  passengers 
something  to  lean  on,  a  rail  guards  the  center  of  the  boat,  and  by  resting 
on  this  and  peering  down,  all  the  mysteries  of  Neptune's  kingdom  are 
revealed. 

The  famous  "Marine  Gardens"  are  located  in  the  bay  off  the  Avalon 
shore.  So  transparent  are  the  waters  that  every  detail  on  the  bottom 
many  fathoms  below,  are  clearly  distinguishable.  The  glass  has  magni- 
fying properties,  so  has  the  water,  and  as  one  gazes  in  rapture  at  the  rare 
and  exquisite  foliage  of  the  sea  bottom,  and  turns  about  a  moment  to  note 
that  the  earth  is  still  about  him,  he  becomes  thrilled  with  a  feeling  and 
belief  that  he  is  swaying  leisurely,  airily  and  lightly  through  space ;  that 
the  boat  is  balancing  daintily  upon  some  cloud  and  that  there  is  naught 
beneath  nor  above. 

Were  every  page  in  this  volume  devoted  solely  to  a  description  of  the 
marvels  of  the  sea  as  disclosed  by  the  glass  bottom  boats,  and  were  the 
writer  so  rare  a  one  as  to  be  competent  to  accurately  record  their  descrip- 
tion, the  story  would  not  be  half  told.  Man's  knowledge  of  color  and 
form  is  too  limited  to  tell  his  neighbor  what  he  saw  at  the  bottom  of  the 
sea.  Expert  botanists  are  helpless  to  identify  many  of  the  specimens 
revealed  in  the  shrubbery  and  forests  which  grow  in  jungle-like  confusion 
on  the  ocean  bottom.  Shells  and  coral  creations  abound  in  forms  and 
color  of  dazzling  splendor,  while  fish  that  are  marvelously  odd  and  curi- 
ous pose  and  swim  lazily  by  in  uncountable  numbers,  utterly  ignorant 
of  the  presence  of  man,  or  too  dignified  to  notice  him. 

The  brush  itself,  that  grand  preserver  of  human  memory,  is  pow- 
erless to  record  the  beauties  of  life  under  water.  Just  as  if  God  had 
amused  himself  by  making  a  garden  of  awe-inspiring  beauty.  One, 
becomes  astounded,  asks  questions,  exclaims,  and  goes  into  ecstacies.  A 
hundred  species  of  fish  passed  by  playfully,  in  schools  of  thousands,  or 
in  tiny  groups,  unconscious  and  unmindful  of  an  audience.  You  see 
them  as  they  live,  and  play,  and  pass  the  time  away. 

The  golden  sands  mingled  with  the  emerald  vegetation;  the  trees  of 


238        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

coral  with  irregular  branches  glistening  with  every  imaginable  hue — 
mother-of-pearl,  ruby,  saphire,  turquoise  and  amethyst;  hair-like  ferns, 
sea  grass  and  other  odly-shaped  vegetation  swaying  gently  to  and  fro,  in 
harmony  with  the  will  of  the  under  currents,  lend  a  supernatural  charm. 

Here  are  shell-encrusted  rocks  projecting  upward  at  uneven  heights 
like  the  hills  upon  the  shore,  and  over  these  pearly  gray  formations  one 
can  see  the  slowly  creeping  shell  and  star  fish  moving  spasmodically  in 
short,  jerky  slides.  Gold  fish,  of  immense  size,  wiggle  slowly  by,  while 
here  and  there  one  is  privileged  to  gaze  upon  the  queer  electric  fish  which 
throws  its  peculiar,  greenish  searchlight  ahead  intermittently. 

It  was  a  fairy  place  inhabited  by  fish,  fish,  fish — nothing  but  fish ! 
Here  and  there  arose  a  cliff  arranged  like  a  throne  of  a  splendid  goddess 
or  mermaid  of  royal  blood,  who  had  chosen  this  fairyland  for  her  bath. 
Sometimes  the  rocks  would  take  the  form  of  abandoned  castles,  with 
secret  subterranean  passageways  through  which  the  fish  would  grace- 
fully glide  in  and  out. 

Occasionally  the  boatman  would  announce  the  particular  depth  at 
the  point  where  the  boat  was  resting,  and  this  only  added  wonder,  because 
of  the  clearness  of  the  vision.  Now  and  again  the  eye  and  mind  would 
tire  of  the  eager  and  incessant  gaze,  and  one  is  compelled  to  turn  away 
and  rest,  and  rub  fresh  vigor  into  the  eyes. 

Reluctantly  we  left  the  Marine  Gardens.  It  had  been  of  such  un- 
expected beauty  and  its  revelations  so  novel  and  fascinating.  Return- 
ing to  Avalon,  some  of  the  pilgrims  made  an  inspection  of  that  pictur- 
esque town,  while  others  took  side  trips,  including:  Sea-Lion  Rookery, 
the  Sphinx,  San  Clemente,  Little  Harbor,  Mount  Orizaba,  Banning  and 
Black  Jack,  Empire  Landing,  Catalina  Harbor,  Eagles'  Nest  Camp,  Pre- 
historic Cave,  Moonstone  Beach  and  Sea  Rocks.  The  latter  being  the 
rendezvous  of  hundreds  of  seals,  many  of  whom  are  of  enormous  size. 

One  of  Avalon's  most  alluring  attractions  is  the  sport  it  offers  to 
anglers.  The  barracuda  is  plentiful,  likewise  yellow-tail  or  sea-salmon, 
which  frequently  weighs  50  pounds.  Sea-bass  fishing  is  much  indulged 
in,  and  these  fish  are  also  plentiful,  ranging  in  weight  from  200  to  400 
pounds.  The  fisherman  who  hooks  one  is  frequently  dragged  in  his  skiff 
for  miles,  and  is  often  as  much  exhausted  as  the  fish  when  it  finally  comes 
to  gaff. 

The  most  popular  fishing  at  Catalina  is  for  the  leaping  tuna,  a  gamy 
fish  that  furnishes  the  angler  all  the  sport  that  hook  and  line  can  possibly 
afford.  Fishermen  from  all  parts  of  the  world  visit  Catalina  for  the  sole 
purpose  of  combating  with  the  "tunny,"  and  a  tuna  club  has  been  formed, 
which  offers  diplomas  and  prizes  to  the  catcher  of  the  largest  tuna  each 
year,  with  rod  and  reel.  These  fish  sometimes  weigh  250  pounds,  and 
are  so  game  that  they  have  been  known  to  pull  a  boat  containing  three 
people  for  12  hours  before  being  landed.  Their  favorite  diet  is  flying  fish, 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        239 

in  following  which  they  will  jump  out  of  the  water  and  catch  their  prey 
in  the  air. 

Shortly  after  4  o'clock  we  boarded  the  steamer  for  our  return.  The 
trip  was  rougher  than  the  one  that  brought  us  to  Catalina  Islands.  Not 
that  the  water  was  any  rougher,  but  the  trip  was  not  as  pleasant  to  some 
of  the  pilgrims.  Most  of  the  party  had  eaten  liberally  of  fish  dur- 
ing a  luncheon  of  rich  food,  thereby  securing  an  excellent  "ready  on"  for 
the  return  voyage.  As  the  boat  weighed  anchor,  everyone  was  happy  and 
cheerful,  and  smiles  spread  over  every  countenance.  All  were  in  jesting 
humor,  as  they  greeted  one  another  with :  "Hello,  Joe" ;  "How-de-du, 
Ed?"  "Fine  sight!"  "How  you  feeling?"  etc.  As  they  strode  about  upon 
the  deck  the  happy  pilgrims  pulled  down  their  vests  in  conscious  satis- 
faction of  the  good  meal  they  had  enjoyed — (the  ladies,  of  course,  being 
excepted).  In  a  few  moments  these  land  sailors  deserted  the  deck  one  by 
one. 

The  cabin  and  staterooms  seemed  to  have  offered  special  attractions ; 
peace  and  quiet  prevailed.  Down  in  the  cabin  "Bobbie"  was  mumbling 
something  about  "near  North  avenue,  Allegheny — h-o-m-e."  He  looked 
as  if  he  had  something  on  his  mind  or  off  his  stomach.  "Joe"  appeared 
so  quiet  there  was  a  suspicion  that  something  ailed  him. 

"When  do  we  get  off  the  roller-coaster?"  inquired  Sir  Gilland  in 
whispers — and  we  knew  how  he  felt.  Sir  Watson  was  looking  down  a 
port  hole,  pretending  he  saw  the  Marine  Gardens. 

We  arrived  at  San  Pedro  shortly  after  six  o'clock  with  our 
"wounded,"  and  when  we  reached  Los  Angeles  we  found  that  the  hos- 
pital candidates  had  fully  recovered. 

The  engine  had  not  ceased  panting  when  there  was  a  concentrated 
rush  on  the  part  of  the  "stag  coachers"  to  get  to  their  quarters  and  "pre- 
pare" for  the  evening.  There  was  an  upheaval  of  linens  and  neckties,  and 
all  tributes  to  good  appearance — including  hair  restorer.  What  occa- 
sioned all  the  activity  could  not  be  ascertained,  for  none  cared  to  divulge 
the  secret.  However,  it  was  learned  later  that  some  of  the  "stag  coach- 
ers" were  received  at  Los  Angeles  Commandery  headquarters  by  members 
of  the  fair  sex,  with  an  enthusiasm  that  bespoke  the  fact  that  they  had  at 
least  been  remembered  from  the  previous  visits. 

We  are  almost  afraid  to  tell  how  our  noble,  big-hearted  Praters 
received  and  treated  us,  for  fear  of  a  whole  batch  of  Masonic  bodies  pack- 
ing up  and  paying  them  a  visit  and  taking  those  good  people  completely 
by  storm ;  but  even  with  that  risk,  we  cannot  refrain  from  dilating  upon 
one  of  the  most  glorious  receptions  of  the  pilgrimage;  so  our  good 
friends  must  not  hold  us  accountable  if  we  are  the  cause  of  a  wholesale 
imposition  upon  their  kindness  and  hospitality. 

It  was  our  last  night  in  Los  Angeles,  and  at  no  time  did  we  more 
keenly  regret  it  than  when  we  participated  in  the  grand  good  time  offered 


240 

by  Los  Angeles  Commandery  with  the  big-hearted  hospitality  which  had 
marked  its  reception  for  days.  Long  into  the  night  we  lingered  within 
the  portals  of  the  brilliantly  lighted  headquarters,  bidding  adieu  time  and 
time  again. 

We  can  truthfully  say  that  the  few  days  spent  in  Los  Angeles  were 
among  the  brightest  and  sparkling  gems  that  studded  our  transcontinental 
tour.  We  assured  our  hosts  of  the  highest  and  keenest  appreciation  of 
their  boundless  hospitality,  extravagant  liberality  and  sincere  fraternal 
fellowship.  The  outstretched  hand  of  brotherly  welcome  was  extended 
by  Los  Angeles  Commandery,  No.  9,  not  only  during  the  14  days  and 
nights  it  maintained  "open  house"  at  home,  but  at  its  headquarters  in  the 
Conclave  City  as  well. 

In  San  Francisco  the  Los  Angeles  Commandery  was  represented  by 
nearly  500  Sir  Knights  and  ladies,  and  the  entertainment  that  they 
provided  at  their  headquarters  rivaled  the  most  lavish  display  on  the 
coast.  Hurrying  back  to  their  paradisiacal  home,  they  threw  wide 
open  the  doors  of  their  magnificent  Temple  and  received  in  regal 
style.  Enjoying  this  hospitality  and  the  friendship  of  the  Los  Angeles 
Sir  Knights  themselves,  we  are  only  placing  credit  where  credit  is 
due,  in  congratulating  them  upon  the  honor  they  bestowed  upon  Cali- 
fornia and  the  order  they  represented,  by  their  lavish,  delightful  and 
sincere  welcome  and  entertainment. 


CHAPTER  XXVII. 

E  arose  the  next  morning  with  full  knowledge  of  the  fact  that  we 
had  but  a  few  hours  to  remain  in  Los  Angeles.  There  were  expres- 
sions of  regret  because  our  stay  could  not  be  prolonged.  We 
regretted  to  leave  the  city  and  the  friends  we  had  made;  parting 
from  the  Sir  Knights  of  the  beautiful  city.  Some  of  "our  boys"  regretted 
to  leave  the  fair  sex — in  fact,  our  regrets  became  so  many  that  Sir  Reel 
regretted  to  leave  the  breakfast  table — until  everything  that  resembled 
food  had  left  first. 

With  but  a  few  hours  before  train  time,  our  "happy  family"  made  a 
'farewell  trip  uptown  for  the  purpose  of  bidding  our  friends  good-bye. 
The  Temple  was,  of  course,  visited,  and  a  sincere  farewell  exchanged. 
Sirs  Burry  and  Taylor  started  off  on  a  secret  mission,  only  to  return  with 
what  appeared  to  be  tear-dimmed  eyes.  Sir  Beckert  came  back  with  an 
armful  of  souvenirs,  sufficient  to  start  him  in  that  business. 

Among  congenial  friends  whom  we  bade  farewell  were  a  number  of 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        241 

railroad  representatives,  whose  previous  courtesy  had  won  our  appreci- 
ation, and  whose  good-fellowship  we  had  enjoyed. 

Among  these  was  a  quartet  of  Santa  Fe  men,  who  showed  our  party 
every  attention.  They  were  H.  H.  Francisco,  general  freight  agent  at 
Los  Angeles,  who  was  named  after  San  Francisco — or  before  it.  He 
was  a  royal  entertainer,  as  was  Fred  E.  Shellaberger,  passenger  agent  in 
Pittsburgh,  who  was  in  Los  Angeles  to  greet  us ;  A.  J.  Kennedy,  passen- 
ger agent  in  Cleveland ;  T.  P.  Chambers,  contracting  freight  agent  in  Los 
Angeles;  Thomas  W.  Moses,  of  Los  Angeles,  traveling  passenger  agent, 
who  accompanied  us  for  a  time  after  leaving  Los  Angeles,  and  other 
jovial,  genial,  affable  gentlemen ;  T.  H.  Goodman,  general  passenger 
agent;  R.  A.  Donaldson,  and  James  Horsburgh,  Jr.,  of  the  Southern 
Pacific  Company.  In  company  with  these  pleasant  companions  we  spent 
a  happy  hour,  during  which  the  absence  of  E.  F.  Lalk,  general  freight 
agent  of  the  Santa  Fe  system  in  Pittsburgh  was  regretted  by  the  entire 
party.  C.  A.  David,  excursion  agent  for  the  Northwestern  and  Union 
Pacific  lines;  E.  P.  Ensign,  traveling  passenger  agent  for  the  Union 
Pacific ;  P.  O.  Prince,  traveling  agent  for  the  Northwestern ;  William  H. 
Sutton,  fraternal  editor  of  the  Brooklyn  Eagle,  and  others,  showed  our 
party  special  courtesies. 

Shortly  before  1 1  o'clock  we  started  over  the  famous  Santa  Fe  "kite- 
shaped"  track  through  the  orange  groves  of  Southern  California.  A 
swing  around  the  "kite-shaped"  track  carries  one  from  Los  Angeles  back 
to  Los  Angeles,  through  166  miles  of  the  finest  orange  country  in  the 
world,  without  duplicating  a  mile.  This  bit  of  track,  though  named  "kite- 
shaped,"  resembles  the  figure  eight  in  form,  with  the  upper  circle  larger 
than  the  lower.  Pasadena,  Santa  Anita,  Monrovia,  Azusa,  Pomona,  On- 
tario, Rialto,  San  Bernardino,  Redlands,  Mentone,  Highland,  Colton, 
Riverside,  Corona,  Orange,  Fullerton,  La  Mirada  and  back  to  Los 
Angeles.  This  is  the  route  as  identified  by  the  principal  towns.  Los 
Angeles  stands  at  the  top  of  the  kite  or  figure  eight,  and  San  Bernardino 
is  the  point  of  crossing. 

The  whole  country  penetrated  by  the  "kite-shaped"  track  is  rich 
with  the  scent  of  oranges  and  flowers,  and  of  citrus  fruits.  Passing  Pasa- 
dena the  train  runs  through  the  Santa  Anita  branch  of  "Lucky"  Bald- 
win for  several  miles.  This  is  the  home  of  the  famous  turfman  and  min- 
ing millionaire.  Pomona  and  Ontario  are  devoted  to  olive  culture,  while 
orange  and  lemon  groves  embower  the  beautiful  homes.  San  Bernar- 
dino is  one  of  the  oldest  of  Southern  California  towns,  having  been 
established  since  1852.  It  is  the  commercial  center  of  the  surrounding 
country,  shelters  the  shops  of  the  Santa  Fe  railroad,  and  is  a  town  of 
beauty.  It  is  here  that  the  smaller  loop  of  the  track  begins. 

In  the  foothills  of  the  Santa  Ana  valley,  which  is  included  in  the 
lower  loop  of  the  track,  lies  the  pretty  town  of  Redlands,  a  modern,  up-to- 
(16) 


242        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

date  community,  less  than  20  years  old.  It  is  a  community  of  palatial 
homes,  grand  avenues  and  of  magnificent  views.  It  is  claimed  that  the 
finest  oranges  in  the  world  grow  in  Redlands  and  immediate  vicinity. 
Bear  Valley  Lake,  which  lies  in  the  mountains  above,  is  the  source 
which  alleviates  the  thirst  of  the  orange  groves  in  the  valley. 

Passing  San  Bernardino  again  as  one  re-enters  the  upper  loop,  and 
beyond  numerous  fruit-growing  communities,  lies  the  enterprising  and 
beautiful  city  of  Riverside.  Along  the  track  at  this  point  may  be  seen  the 
immense,  main  cement  ditch,  which  feeds  subsidiary  ditches  that  dis- 
tribute the  much-needed  water  among  the  orange  and  lemon  blooms.  All 
along  the  route  of  the  "kite-shaped"  track  one  is  compelled  to  note  the 
absence  of  broken  fences,  cowlots  and  unpainted  houses.  One  becomes 
surprised  at  the  uniform  neatness,  cleanliness,  grace  and  taste  in  beauti- 
fying. We  marveled  at  the  fine  roads,  the  beauty  of  the  orange  groves, 
skirting  the  very  tracks,  and  the  evenness  of  the  hedges ;  and  as  we 
bowled  along  we  entered  a  wilderness  of  odorous  flowers  shortly  after 
the  noon  hour,  and  speeding  through  it,  excited,  delighted  and  half  per- 
suaded that  we  were  only  the  sport  of  a  beautiful  dream,  lo !  we  arrived 
at  Riverside. 

As  we  stepped  from  the  train  to  spend  a  few  hours  in  a  fuller  enjoy- 
ment of  the  beauties  of  the  community,  our  ears  met  the  sweet,  welcom- 
ing music  of  the  chimes.  As  the  soft  pealing  of  the  bells  resounded,  a 
sensitiveness  of  welcome  pervaded  us.  The  chimes  seemed  endowed 
with  the  most  pleasing  of  all  sounds  we  had  heard ;  enchanting,  melodious 
and  rich  blending  in  tone.  The  echo  was  like  the  long-drawn  chord  of 
a  church  organ,  infinitely  softened  by  distance. 

With  this  welcome  ringing  in  our  ears  we  boarded  a  car  for  the 
hotel.  It  had  become  second  nature  with  us  to  ride,  hence  we  asked  no 
questions  until  we  were  seated.  Then  we  learned  that  the  hotel  was  but 
a  few  blocks  from  the  station,  and  it  took  a  great  deal  of  hurrying  to  pay 
the  conductor  before  we  got  off. 

The  Glenwood,  known  as  "California's  Mission  Hotel,"  is  pictur- 
esquely beautiful,  while  a  touch  of  romance  is  added  by  the  marked  mis- 
sion style  of  the  architecture.  The  building  is  long,  low  and  cloistered, 
inclosing  a  spacious  court  and  surrounded  by  magnificent  old  trees  and 
stately  palms.  In  the  court,  the  Adobe  or  casino  adjoins  the  Campanile, 
whose  sweet-chiming  mission  bells  were  still  tolling  when  we  arrived. 
Facing  the  court,  on  the  third  floor,  is  the  Paseo  de  las  Palmas,  a  prome- 
nade 700  feet  long.  The  building  carries  out  the  mission  scheme  in  every 
detail,  the  furnishings  being  quaintly  consistent  with  this  idea. 

The  grounds  about  the  building  were  as  beautifully  kept  as  fine  gar- 
dening would  permit.  Hedges,  shrubs,  semi-tropical  plants  and  trees 
were  trained  to  grow  in  accurately  symmetrical  shapes.  Flowers  and 
blooms  and  the  sweet  scent  of  the  orange  blossoms  lent  fragrance  to  the 


RIVERSIDE    AND    REDLANDS,    CALIFORNIA. 

I — Riverside's  Famous  Magnolia  Avenue  (  10  miles  long,  200  feet  wide  ).  2 — GlenWood  Chime.  3 — Cactus  Garden,  A.  S.  White 
Park  (400  varieties).  4 — A  Few  Riverside  Roses.  5-9 — Roof  Promenade.  6 — Pachappa  Mountain  and  Orange  Groves.  7 — The  Old 
Well,  at  The  Glenwood.  8  —  Picking  Oranges  near  Snow  Fields.  10-11-12-13-15-16-17-19-21-22-24  —  The  Glenwood.  14 — 
Riverside  Pioneer  Rose  Tree.  18 — Oranges  and  Orange  Blossoms.  20 — Carnegie  Library.  23 — Palm  on  Arlington  Heights.  25 — 
President  Roosevelt,  planting  the  "  Original  Orange  Tree  "  at  The  Glenwood.  26 — Palm  Drive.  27  — A  Redlands  Home.  28-29-30-31 
— "  The  Anchorage  "  and  its  Grounds.  32 — U.  S.  Government  Indian  School.  33 — View  from  Smiley  Heights,  Redlands. 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        243 

air,  and  a  charm  to  the  surroundings  that  was  unsurpassable.  Every 
nook  and  corner  of  the  Glenwood  that  lends  an  opportunity  to  carry  out 
the  mission  or  cloister  style  of  architecture  has  been  graced  with  an  arch, 
from  which  a  bell  is  pendant ;  even  the  spacious  dining  hall  and  lounging 
quarters  are  suggestive  of  the  period  of  Junipero  Serra. 

Following  a  most  satisfying  meal,  carriages  awaited  us  at  the  hotel 
entrance,  and  we  at  once  entered  upon  one  of  the  most  delightful  drives 
this  country  affords.  Riverside  enjoys  the  distinction  of  being  the  larg- 
est orange  growing  settlement  in  the  world,  the  production  annually  being 
three  million  boxes  of  oranges  and  lemons.  It  is  the  home  of  the  seed- 
less orange,  which  has  won  such  popular  favor. 

A  view  of  these  magnificent  orchards,  bearing  their  wealth  of  golden 
fruits,  and  the  beautiful  and  highly  ornamental  private  grounds  and  resi- 
dences, bedecked  with  almost  every  bloom  and  flower  that  the  earth  is 
capable  of  producing,  is  one  that  cannot  easily  be  described. 

Among  the  beautiful  thoroughfares  affording  a  most  interesting  drive 
is  Magnolia  avenue,  which,  without  the  aid  of  artificial  improvements, 
ranks  with  the  greatest  in  the  world  in  magnificent  proportions.  It  is 
150  feet  wide  and  10  miles  long,  and  is  arched  continuously  with  tall 
and  graceful  pepper,  palm,  date-palm,  magnolia  and  other  tropical  trees. 

It  is  all  wonderfully  beautiful!  One  gazes  and  stares,  and  tries  to 
understand  that  it  is  real.  To  the  visitor,  the  new  world  of  beauty  is 
stupefying,  and  the  imagination  seems  encouraged  by  some  exquisite 
dream.  Not  only  was  the  continuous  archway  one  of  remarkable  accu- 
racy and  symmetrical  form,  but  the  shrubbery  and  hedges  that  lined  the 
sides  of  the  drive  for  the  full  10  miles  were  trimmed  with  pyramids, 
squares,  spirals  and  all  manner  of  fanciful  shapes,  with  an  accuracy 
that  did  not  permit  one  leaf  to  vary  from  the  desired  design.  Flowers 
grew  in  riotous  profusion,  but  in  such  figure  formation  as  the  hand 
of  man  desired.  In  a  word,  the  whole  driveway  was  so  fanciful,  so 
exquisite,  that  it  was  difficult  to  believe  that  it  was  really  nature. 

Of  striking  beauty  to  the  visitor  is  the  continuous  row  of  date- 
palm  trees.  They  are  of  great  height  and  bear  no  leaves  elsewhere 
but  upon  the  very  top,  where  the  palms  spread  out  like  a  large  open 
fan.  Beneath  is  a  long  and  heavy  shaggy  coat  of  fibrous  vegetation, 
the  same  in  color  and  appearance  as  a  lion's  mane.  The  trunk  of  the 
tree  has  an  outward  formation  similar  to  the  pineapple,  with  layers  of 
bark  that  dovetail  each  other. 

The  road  was  perfectly  dustless,  made  so  by  the  liberal  application 
of  fuel  oil,  which  is  rolled  into  the  earth  and  darkens  the  ground  into 
almost  a  black.  We  passed  scores  of  beautiful  orange  groves  and  found 
great  interest  in  the  irrigation  scheme  by  which  they  receive  nourish- 
ment. Riverside  has  300  miles  of  irrigation  canals,  (concrete  ditches) 
which  are  supplied  by  Santa  Ana  river  and  Warm  creek,  to  which 


244        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

has  been  added  the  flow  of  100  artesian  wells.  This  gives  an  aggregate 
of  over  6,000  miner's  inches  of  continuous  flow,  or  a  capacity  of  eighty 
million  gallons  a  day.  The  orange  grower  has  but  to  turn  on  the 
faucet  and  the  water  comes  shooting  down,  overflowing  the  canals  and 
runs  into  the  orange  grove,  where  the  streamlets  are  trained  with  the 
hoe,  to  feed  the  long  rows  of  trees. 

A.  S.  White  Park,  which  is  one  of  the  points  of  interest  to  the 
visitor,  is  devoted  almost  entirely  to  the  culture  of  every  specie  of 
cactus.  Over  400  varieties,  in  every  imaginable  shape,  are  on  exhi- 
bition, and  vary  in  size  from  veritable  trees  to  mere  atoms.  On  the  out- 
skirts of  Riverside  is  the  Sherman  Indian  School,  conducted  by  the 
government.  Spacious  grounds  surround  the  buildings,  which  are  also 
in  the  prevailing  quaint  mission  style  of  architecture.  The  Indians 
attending  the  school  are  of  a  high  degree  of  intelligence,  the  tuition 
being  entirely  in  the  higher  course. 

On  the  return  journey,  we  stopped  to  gather  golden  ripe  oranges 
from  the  tree.  What  a  revelation  it  afforded!  How  vastly  and  en- 
chantingly  different,  in  taste  and  flavor,  from  the  commercial  article 
purchased  a  thousand  miles  from  the  place  of  growth !  The  ground  was 
strewn  with  oranges,  which,  instead  of  decaying,  had  become  sunbaked; 
and  when  opened  and  eaten,  afford  an  exceptionally  sweet  delicacy. 

As  we  neared  the  hotel,  the  chimes  that  had  greeted  us  at  noon 
were  again  sending  forth  their  welcoming  peal.  Arriving  at  the 
hostelry,  and  seating  ourselves  in  the  cozy  dining  room,  one  of  our  com- 
panions suggested  to  the  proprietor  that  the  chimes  play  "Onward 
Christian  Soldiers"  as  a  hymn  appropriate  to  the  occasion. 

The  proprietor  not  only  acquiesced,  but  was  delighted  at  the  idea, 
and  telephoning  to  the  belfry,  delivered  such  order.  A  moment  later 
the  solemn,  majestic,  tolling  of  the  mission-like  chimes  began  to  strike 
out,  in  measured  tread,  the  opening  strains  of  that  famous  anc?  beauti- 
ful hymn.  During  the  entire  time  in  which  our  meal  was  being  served, 
the  slow,  measured  peal  of  the  bells  kept  at  their  task,  ringing  out  the 
melody  of  that  sterling  hymn. 

After  dinner  we  had  opportunity  to  stroll  about  the  beautiful 
grounds.  We  engaged  in  walks  and  talks,  while  the  mission  bells  re- 
lentlessly pealed  forth  "Onward  Christian  Soldiers"  without  abatement. 
Presently  we  received  word  that  the  time  of  our  departure  had  arrived. 
We  felt  sincerely  sorry  that  we  could  not  linger  longer  in  this  land  of 
fruit  and  plenty.  The  scenery  and  weather  conditions  were  so  alluring, 
and  Nature  dressed  in  her  prettiest  gown — it  was  difficult  to  turn 
away  from  these  things  without  regret. 

Boarding  our  "Special"  the  mission  bells  were  still  sending  forth 
their  music  to  "Onward  Christian  Soldiers."  As  the  train  pulled  out, 
and  we  began  to  speed  rapidly  away,  the  tolling  grew  fainter  and  fainter ; 


and  slowly  and  gradually  began  to  fade  out  of  hearing.  Note  by 
note  was  being  lost,  and  yet  enough  was  audible  for  a  time,  to  carry 
along  the  melody.  It  was  indeed  impressive  and  appealed  to  our  emo- 
tional feelings,  as  the  solemn  tolling  in  the  distance  bade  us  "Onward" 
—"Onward"— "Onward  Christian  Soldiers." 

Leaving  Riverside  we  turned  our  faces  homeward  for  the  first  time, 
and  were  to  reach  The  Needles,  the  eastern  extremity  of  southern  Cali- 
fornia, early  in  the  morning.  The  ride  during  the  evening  and  night 
carried  us  through  orchards  of  olives,  prunes,  apricots,  peaches,  figs, 
almonds,  oranges,  lemons  and  other  fruits  which  have  brought  fame  to 
the  land  of  the  sunset.  The  railroad  finds  its  course  ever  upward  as 
it  passes  the  San  Bernardino  Mountains,  and  during  one  stage  of  the 
route  an  ascent  of  2,700  feet  is  made  in  25  miles. 

As  the  shades  of  night  began  to  dim  the  visions  of  the  interesting 
scenery,  we  sought  consolation  by  gathering  in  the  commissary  car. 
While  entertainment  was  at  its  height,  everything  was  brought  to  a 
standstill  by  a  series  of  detonations  that  resounded  from  the  "stag" 
coach. 

We  entered  the  car  to  learn  the  trouble,  and  ran  into  it.  Berths 
were  lying  in  the  middle  of  the  aisle.  Would-be  sleepers  were  sprawling 
about.  In  some  instances,  the  berths  were  left  intact  and  only  the 
occupant  and  bed-clothes  were  struggling  together  in  the  aisle.  The 
victims  were  positive  that  their  embarrassment  was  not  due  to  an  earth- 
quake and  would  not  listen  to  the  theory  that  the  train  had  been  attacked 
by  marauders.  They  had  their  own  suspicions,  and  many  a  terrible 
revenge  was  planned. 

Sir  D.  B.  Watson,  who  is  known  as  "doctor"  because  he  sells  drugs 
that  "make  human  hearts  beat  again — brings  the  dead  back  to  life — 
makes  the  blind  see  and  the  lame  walk" — attended  to  the  needs  of  the 
afflicted  in  the  stag  coach. 

During  the  dethronement  of  the  early  sleepers,  some  unseen  force 
succeeded  in  hurling  the  bed  clothing  out  of  the  berth  of  Sir  Beckert 
while  he  was  dreaming  of  Allegheny  and  home.  He  awakened  with 
a  start  and  a  chill.  Naturally,  his  thought  and  hand  turned  to  the 
push  button,  which  summons  the  porter.  For  some  known,  or  unknown 
reason,  the  wires  were  disconnected,  and  Sir  Beckert  pushed  violently 
but  in  vain.  Realizing  his  predicament,  he  dramatically  cried : 
"Woodzie !"— "Woodzie !"— Woodzie !"  The  Pullman  conductor  re- 
sponded in  haste,  and  learning  the  sad  dilemma  of  Sir  Beckert,  handed 
him  sufficient  clothing  to  relieve  his  embarrassment  and  his  chill. 

It  was  past  midnight  when  we  reached  Barstow,  Cal.,  on  the  main 
line  of  the  Santa  Fe  railroad.  East  of  Barstow,  for  many  miles  ahead 
lay  the  Mojave  Desert,  a  wing  of  the  Great  American  Desert,  the  bleak- 


246        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

est  waste  in  the  country,  with  Death  Valley  only  a  score  or  more  miles 
to  the  northward.  The  northern  offshoot  of  the  Great  American  Desert 
is  known  as  Humboldt  Desert,  which  spreads  west  from  Ogden,  Utah; 
while  the  southern  arm  is  designated  as  the  Mojave  Desert. 


CHAPTER  XXVIII. 

HE  ride  to  The  Needles,  though  a  barren,  hopeless  waste  of  sand 
and  alkali,  offered  startling  contrast  to  the  land  of  flowers,  fruit 
and  sunshine  we  had  just  left. 

Our  breakfast  in  the  commissary  car  was  especially  satisfy- 
ing. Not  that  this  was  unusual,  nor  that  meals  were  not  always  relished, 
but  the  unvarying,  desolate  desert  without,  was  in  contrast  to  the  com- 
fort we  enjoyed.  As  a  matter  of  fact,  the  larders  of  the  commissary 
car  were  never  permitted  to  go  unreplenished.  Sir  Flechsig  not  only 
performed  his  duty,  but  more;  and  sought  to  be  prepared  to  meet  the 
onslaught  of  a  hungry  constituency  at  all  times,  and  made  continual 
personal  efforts  to  secure  such  tempting  morsels,  as  appealed  to  his 
"boarders." 

We  arrived  at  The  Needles  at  9  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  Friday, 
September  16.  Here,  on  the  threshold  of  both  California  and  Arizona, 
we  met  a  group  of  Indians,  the  remnants  of  the  once  powerful  and 
warlike  Mojave  tribe.  They  were  not  the  tall,  sinewy,  heroic-looking- 
red  men  that  you  read  about  in  the  romantic  novel.  The  group  was  a 
rusty  one;  ragged  and  barefooted,  uncombed  and  unclean;  and  by 
instinct,  education  and  profession,  beggars.  They  trooped  after  us 
while  we  tarried  at  the  station,  and  it  was  impossible  to  get  rid  of  them. 
They  followed  us  just  as  the  village  boy  follows  the  circus  parade,  or 
colored  folks  a  negro  band.  They  were  attired  in  their  native  blankets, 
with  little  attempt  toward  neatness  or  cleanliness.  Both  men  and 
women  were  lazy  and  slothful,  and  seemed  to  eke  out  an  existence  by 
loitering  about  the  station  offering  beads,  bows  and  arrows,  and  trinkets 
for  sale  to  travelers. 

As  we  left  The  Needles  and  were  about  to  cross  the  Colorado  River 
to  enter  Arizona,  we  were  inspired  to  take  a  look  of  farewell  upon  the 
state  we  were  about  to  leave.  We  would  fain  have  remained  a  few 
days  longer,  for  it  seemed  that  we  would  never  tire  of  its  scenery, 
climate  and  sweet-scented  air.  We  had  been  wonderfully  favored  by 
weather  conditions,  not  having  encountered  a  rainstorm  since  leaving 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        247 

Yellowstone  Park.  Rain  rarely  falls  in  California  between  the  first 
of  May  and  the  latter  part  of  October.  During  this  season  the  won- 
derous  and  fairy-like  powers  of  irrigation  are  appealed  to.  In  the  Fall 
the  rainy  season  begins — not  that  it  is  a  season  of  continuous  rain,  but 
one  in  which  rain  may  be  expected,  rather  than  wholly  unexpected. 

We  were  carrying  away  memories,  which  promise  to  remain  ever 
verdant,  of  the  bounteous  fruits,  flowers  and  vegetation,  the  exquisite 
homes  and  happy  conditions.  Surely  it  is  a  sumptuous  banquet  that 
Dame  Nature  has  spread  throughout  California  for  those  who  will  come 
and  partake. 

Four  conditions  have  served  to  make  California  a  land  of  fame  and 
plenty.  Mineral  wealth,  climate,  irrigation  and  railroads.  It  is  true 
that  Nature  wrought  a  wondrous  work  to  bring  such  glory  to  an  area 
150  miles  wide  and  1,000  miles  long,  with  less  population  than  the  city 
of  Chicago.  But  it  was  man  that  encouraged  Nature  to  do  her  best  in 
California.  Irrigation  is  the  golden  key  that  opened  the  door  to  success 
and  plenty. 

The  methods  of  irrigation  employed  depend  entirely  upon  the  re- 
sources and  peculiarities  of  the  region  to  be  supplied.  Irrigation  in  its 
simplest  form,  is  accomplished  by  sinking  wells,  a  large  number  of 
which  are  artesian,  and  conducting  water  from  them  to  the  land  to  be 
irrigated.  Usually,  a  pumping  plant  is  necessary.  Where  flowing 
streams  with  sufficient  fall  abound,  the  large  irrigation  canal,  with 
laterals,  is  the  natural  method.  In  some  districts  corporations  have 
established  irrigating  plants,  treasuring  the  water  in  natural  water-sheds 
in  the  mountain  sides,  and  releasing  it  at  the  demand  of  the  fruit- 
grower, who  pays  a  rental  in  proportion  to  the  acreage  he  has  under 
cultivation.  Under  irrigation  the  fruit-grower  and  grain-raiser  becomes 
the  director  and  controller  of  his  crops  and  fortunes.  He  is  not  depend- 
ent upon  the  whims  of  the  weather  elements.  No  inopportune  rain 
has  he  to  fear,  nor  is  he  in  dread  of  an  extended  dry  season.  For  him 
the  sun  always  shines.  His  irrigation  canal  with  its  many  lateral  fumes 
and  furrows,  enables  him  to  supply  moisture  just  when  needed,  and 
he  can  force  or  retard  the  growth  of  his  trees  and  plants  at  will.  Irri- 
gation has  not  only  reclaimed  great  areas  of  vast  and  parched  desert 
lands  in  California  and  transformed  them  into  the  greatest  orchards  and 
gardens  in  America,  but  the  same  power  is  destined  to  work  the  same 
magic  spell  over  untold  acreage  which  still  lies  untouched  by  the  hand 
of  man.  Within  the  lifetime  of  many  who  are  still  with  us,  a  celebrated 
statesman,  of  world-wide  reputation,  arose  in  Congress  and  vigorously 
denounced  the  proposition  to  admit  California  to  the  Union,  on  the 
ground  that  it  was  a  worthless  and  forbidding  expanse  of  arid  desert, 
which  would  never  be  of  any  use  to  the  United  States. 

While  in  later  years  the  mining  industry  of  California  has  been  over- 


shadowed  to  a  great  extent  by  her  progress  in  the  development  of  the 
soil,  mining  still  forms  an  important  factor.  Since  the  first  discovery 
of  gold  in  the  state,  California  has  furnished  the  world  with  a  billion 
and  one-half  in  precious  metals,  and  the  mining  industry  is  still  in  its 
youth.  Modern  machinery  had  made  productive  claims  that  were 
thought  to  have  been  unprofitable.  The  skirmish  line  of  intrepid 
prospectors  is  still  moving  over  the  California  mountains,  in  greater 
number  than  ever  before,  seeking  through  canyon  and  valley  for  surface 
tracings  which  give  promise  of  hidden  wealth.  California  was  built 
on  a  gold  foundation.  The  discovery  of  precious  metal  gave  her 
fame,  prestige  and  position,  and  from  this  royal  birth  she  has  grown, 
and  is  ever  growing,  in  regal  style. 

With  all  its  natural  wealth;  with  all  the  energy  of  its  progressive 
and  enterprising  people ;  with  all  its  beauty  and  health-giving  atmosphere 
and  climate,  California  today  would  be  but  a  depopulated  Eden  were  it 
not  for  its  network  of  modernly  constructed  and  highly  efficient  rail- 
roads. 

Ordinarily  the  advantages  of  a  railroad  to  a  community  and  state, 
lies  in  the  fact  that  it  places  the  section  through  which  it  passes  in  com- 
munication with  the  outer  world.  Railroads  have  done  that  and  more 
for  California.  They  have  placed  the  outer  world  in  communication 
with  that  state,  for  it  is  the  land  of  Canaan  of  modern  times,  and 
when  the  "iron  horse"  first  puffed  its  way  into  this  land  of  plenty,  it 
opened  it  up  to  the  world  at  large — it  laid  abundance  at  the  door  of  all 
America  and  performed  a  greater  service  to  the  universe  than  it  did  to 
the  state,  for  California  had  everything  in  her  own  right  that  was  self- 
sustaining. 

The  railroad  facilities  of  the  state  have  ever  been  abreast  of  the 
times  and  are  equal,  if  not  superior,  to  that  of  any  other  state  in  com- 
parison to  population.  The  great  Santa  Fe  system  has  furnished  Cali- 
fornia with  a  trans-continental  line,  whose  value  to  the  state  cannot  be 
overestimated.  It  reaches  tide  water  at  San  Francisco  Bay  as  well  as 
at  Los  Angeles  and  San  Diego.  It  has  many  branch  lines  which  open 
up  the  interior,  and  aside  from  its  excellent  passenger  service,  has  estab- 
lished a  fast  fruit  line  service  that  has  brought  the  grape  of  famous  Cali- 
fornia vineyards  to  New  England  tables  before  it  has  had  time  to 
encourage  a  blemish.  It  carries  the  blushing  pear  and  peach  to  the 
furthermost  section  of  the  land  without  sufficient  lapse  in  time  to  mar 
its  complexion,  while  it  offers  the  means  for  transporting  the  world- 
renown  orange  in  its  full  sweetness  and  maturity. 

The  Southern  Pacific  railroad  affords  another  trans-continental  out- 
let, with  branches  to  both  Ogden  and  New  Orleans.  A  third  trans- 
continental line,  which  is  about  completed,  enters  the  southern  portion 
of  the  state  with  a  tidewater  terminal  at  San  Pedro.  This  is  the  Salt 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        249 

Lake  route  which  will  stretch  across  California,  Nevada  and  Utah  to 
Salt  Lake  City,  and  thence  eastward  across  the  continent. 

The  California  Northwestern  railroad,  which  finds  an  ocean  terminal 
in  San  Francisco  Bay,  passes  through  a  highly  productive  country  and 
bids  fair  to  develop  into  another  trans-continental  line  through  Portland, 
Oregon.  Further  to  the  west,  and  following  the  trend  of  the  Marin 
counties,  lies  the  North  Shore  railway,  which  stretches  from  tide  water 
through  the  redwood  forests.  Aside  from  these,  there  are  innumerable 
electric  lines  which  bring  together  all  sections  and  communities  in  the 
state  and  which  are  as  modern  as  they  are  efficient.  These  railroads 
and  electric  lines  have  brought  the  natural  splendors  of  California  to 
the  world,  have  done  more  than  anything  else  to  encourage  the  mar- 
velous growth  of  the  state  and  will  serve  to  increase  this  growth  many 
fold  in  the  near  future. 

An  element  which  is  nature's  own,  and  which  has  played  a  prominent 
part  in  making  California,  is  the  climate  of  that  happy  land.  From  the 
fact  that  California's  most  southern  city  lies  on  a  parallel  with  Charles- 
ton, N.  C,  and  that  its  northern  boundary  is  practically  on  the  same 
parallel  with  Boston,  one  might  infer  that  the  sub-tropical  climate  of 
the  south  is  adapted  to  orange  culture,  while  the  northern  portion  must 
necessarily  be  subject  to  the  blustering  winters  found  on  equal  parallels 
on  the  Atlantic  Coast.  This  is  erroneous,  as  there  is  practically  no  dif- 
ference in  horticultural  possibilities  in  the  two  extremes  of  the  state. 

California  may  be  divided  into  three  zones:  The  coast,  valley  and 
sierra  zones.  Along  her  1,200  miles  of  coast  the  climate  is  cool  through- 
out the  summer,  while  in  winter  frost  is  almost  unknown,  due  in  part 
to  the  fact  that  the  broad,  equable  Japanese  ocean-current  flows  near  the 
shore. 

The  valley  zone  stretches  over  600  miles  parallel  with  the  coast, 
and  is  bounded  on  the  east  by  the  high  foothills  of  the  mountains.  This 
zone  has  high  temperature  in  summer  with  little  if  any  rain,  while  in 
winter  its  temperature  is  lower  than  that  of  the  coast,  with  abundant 
rain. 

In  the  sierra  zone  the  climate  varies  according  to  the  altitude.  To 
a  height  of  3,000  feet  it  is  warm  and  genial,  both  summer  and  winter, 
while  in  the  upper  ranges  snow  flies  from  8  to  10  months  in  the  year.  In 
most  of  the  valleys  strawberries  flourish  10  months  in  the  year  and 
roses  bloom  almost  continuously.  With  these  inspiring  surroundings, 
one  may  look  up  to  the  mountain  peaks,  clad  in  mantles  of  snow,  which 
rise  out  of  beds  of  flowers  and  fruit. 

The  success  of  California  cannot  be  attributed  to  any  one  single 
condition.  It  is  the  co-operation  of  several  conditions,  working  in  har- 
mony, that  has  brought  fame,  wealth  and  happiness  to  that  land.  With- 
out climate  the  orange,  lemon,  fig,  almond,  prune,  olive,  lime  and  fruit 


250        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

and  flowers  of  all  kinds  could  not  exist.  Without  the  necessary  soil 
they  would  never  spring  from  the  earth.  Without  scientific  irrigation 
the  soil  would  parch,  and  vegetation  would  die  from  thirst.  Without 
railroads  there  would  be  no  incentive  to  turn  the  state  into  one  vast 
garden  of  flowers  and  orchard  of  fruit. 

So  vast  is  California  that  much  land  still  lies  in  its  natural  state 
of  barren  waste,  parched  and  dry,  awaiting  the  rejuvenation  which  irri- 
gation will  surely  bring  forth.  With  these  possibilities,  and  the  constant 
onward  trend  of  science,  and  the  enterprise  of  railroads,  make  the 
future  of  California  full  of  glorious  promise.  But  there  is  another,  and 
newer  factor,  which  will  work  wonders  in  the  development  of  that  state. 
Our  far  eastern  possessions  and  the  great  possibilities  offered  in  the 
Orient,  since  the  termination  of  the  Japanese-Russian  war,  will  tend 
to  make  the  "Golden  Gate"  operate  both  ways,  and  the  outpouring  and 
inpouring  of  commerce  between  the  two  continents  will  of  necessity  be 
compelled  to  pass  through  the  state,  and  leave  a  trail  of  gold  in  its  wake. 

Passing  into  Arizona  many  miles  of  desolate  country  lay  before 
us;  a  land  whose  soil  some  day  will  become  equally  as  rich  as  that  of 
the  orchards  and  vineyards  of  California,  but  the  desert  knows  no  vege- 
tation but  the  cactus  and  sage  brush.  For  miles  and  miles  over  this 
silent  and  mournful  expanse  we  saw  but  six  human  beings.  These  were 
railroad  laborers,  clad  only  in  long  coarse  shirts,  such  as  were  worn  by 
the  little  pickaninnies  on  Southern  plantations,  in  the  days  before  the 
Civil  war  and  a  large  Mexican  hat.  They  were  bare-footed  and  were 
working  diligently  with  pick  and  shovel.  The  raiment  of  modern  civi- 
lization is  not  adapted  for  wear  between  the  torrid  rays  of  the  sun  and 
the  burning  desert  plains. 

Further  on  we  saw  a  handful  of  sheep  and  cattle  roaming  aimlessly 
about,  doing  what  they  honestly  could  to  secure  a  living ;  but  the  chances 
seemed  against  them.  What  they  could  find  to  subsist  on,  aside  from 
the  unpalatable  cactus,  was  a  mystery  we  could  not  solve. 

Here  and  there  we  observed  a  pile  of  stones  heaped  up  along  the 
track  and  recognized  in  them  the  custom  of  marking  boundaries — an 
idea  that  dates  back  into  ancient  biblical  history.  There  were  no  stone 
walls,  fences  or  posts  to  indicate  the  termination  of  one  man's  possession 
and  the  beginning  of  another.  These  random  piles  of  stones  served  that 
purpose. 

This  method  of  establishing  territorial  rights  also  serves  to  illus- 
trate the  rugged  honesty  of  the  far  west.  It  is  reasonable  to  presume 
if  this  crude  method  of  establishing  real  estate  possessions  prevailed  in 
the  east,  that  many  properties  would  attain  remarkable  growths  merely 
by  the  outlay  of  manual  labor  performed  at  night.  Such  elastic  boundary 
lines  elsewhere  might  be  the  means  of  bringing  to  the  attention  of  the 
public  many  alluring  "plan  of  lots"  inducements,  which  the  promoter 


"  Santa  Fe  all  the  ff-'aj,"       Courtesy  Mr.  Frank  S.  Tha 

THE    CAMERA    IN    THE    SOUTHWEST. 


I_pjma  Indians  Wickup.  2— A  Study  in  Bronze.  3— The  Border  of  the  Desert— The  San  Jacinto  Mountains  Guarding  Palm  Val- 
ley 4— Pueblo  of  Wr.lpi.  5-11— Indian  Pueblos  Z.uni,  New  Mexico.  6— Pueblo  of  Tesuque.  7 — One  of  Two  House  Pyramids,  Taos. 
8— Pueblo  Indians.  9— Zuni  Drilling  Turquoise  and  Indian  Silversmith.  10— The  Horse  Trail,  Acoma.  12— Mesa  and  Pueblo  of 
Acoma.  13— Cactus.  14— The  Indian  of  California  and  Saboba  Indian  basket-maker.  16— Pueblo  of  Laguna  from  Santa  Fe  Tram.  17 
— Jeditoh  Springs  iS— Walpi  Foot  Trail.  19— Isleta  Women  Offering  Pottery  to  Santa  F6  Train  Passengers.  20— San  Francisco 
Mountains.  21— The  Walpi  Lagon  Altar.  22— A  Hopi  Maiden.  23— Hopi  Man  and  Navaho  Woman  Weaving  a  Blanket.  24— The  Hair 
Dresser  Moqui  Indians.  25— Moqui  Basket  Weaver.  26— Indian  Pottery,  etc. 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        251 

could  afford  to  offer  at  more  liberal  terms  than  the  usual  "dollar-down- 
and-dollar-a-week-the-rest-of-your-life"  proposition. 

Continuing  over  the  apparently  uninhabited  dreary  waste,  we  came 
upon  the  unpretentious  town  of  Yucca,  shortly  before  noon.  As  the 
train  came  to  a  stop  we  observed  a  pile  of  peculiar  shaped  rocks  near 
the  station,  which  appeared  to  have  been  scooped  out,  honey-combed 
with  eye-holes. 

These  stones  immediately  offered  possibilities  to  the  souvenir  collec- 
tors, who  never  lost  an  opportunity  to  carry  away  portions  of  the  country 
we  had  visited.  Sirs  Reel,  Jack,  Watson  and  Biddle  saw  their  duty  and 
left  the  train  with  the  purpose  of  seizing  the  rocks.  They  had  already 
freighted  the  commissary  car  with  junk  from  Salt  Lake  City,  Pike's 
Peak,  Yellowstone  Park,  San  Francisco,  Mt.  Lowe  and  every  other  point 
and  community  visited.  Wood,  stone,  iron  and  paper,  in  all  shapes  and 
forms,  from  young  trees  to  rusty  padlocks  comprised  the  collection. 
Some  had  collected  bones,  which  were  laboriously  carried  to  the  car 
from  great  distances,  only  to  be  disappointed  when  Drs.  Benkart  and 
Pears  passed  careful  examination  upon  them,  and  pronounced  them 
relics  of  mules  and  cattle. 

Sirs  Reel,  Jack  and  Watson  soon  returned  with  a  sack  full  of  the 
honey-combed  rock,  and  were  going  after  another  when  Sir  Steinmiller 
suggested  that  they  better  desist,  unless  the  idea  was  to  erect  a  stone 
house  in  the  commissary  car.  Already  the  quarters  of  the  souvenir 
hunters  were  converted  into  museums  of  alleged  "antiquity."  Sir  Reel 
had  several  ghastly-looking  bones  labeled  "piece  of  the  mummy  of  the 
great  Indian  chief  Rain-in-the-Face,  found  in  the  caves  of  Yellowstone 
Park."  These  we  identified  as  being  ribs  of  some  unfortunate  steer  that 
had  died  from  thirst  on  the  desert. 

In  his  anxiety  to  complete  his  collection  and  have  a  souvenir  from 
every  point  visited,  Sir  Reel  broke  a  stone  in  two,  labeling  one  portion 
"from  Faithful  geyser"  and  marking  the  other  half,  "from  Del  Monte." 
Sir  Watson,  who  had  purchased  a  box  of  shells  at  Catalina  Island, 
labeled  them  as  coming  from  30  different  celebrated  points  perhaps 
1,000  miles  apart,  and  many  of  which  we  had  not,  and  would  not  visit 
on  the  tour.  As  a  matter  of  fact,  the  proprietor  of  the  lunch  room  on 
Pike's  Peak  told  us  that  the  summit  of  the  peak  was  10  feet  lower  than 
it  was  before  we  came,  owing  to  the  persistence  with  which  the  souvenir 
hunters  of  our  party  had  gathered  up  sections  of  the  peak. 

One  souvenir  which  met  with  misfortune  was  an  ostrich  egg  that 

(ain't  goin'  to  tell)  brought  from  Pasedena.      He  said  he 

bought  it.  His  intention  was  to  take  it  home  for  use  as  a  paper-weight 
However,  some  member  of  the  party  wanted  to  find  out  if  the  egg  would 
hatch,  and  how  pretty  a  young  ostrich  would  look,  and  placed  the  egg 
in 's  berth  before  he  retired had  been  in  bed  only 


252        Al  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

a  few  moments,  when  he  leaped  out  with  a  scream,  looking  like  the 
"yellow  peril."     What  was  left  of  the  egg  had  to  be  swept  up. 

Sir  Staiger  had  secured  a  cuckoo  clock  in  Los  Angeles  which  at  night 
lent  hideousness  to  the  desert  by  it  distressing  "hoo  hoo!  hoo  hoo! 
hoo  hoo!"  For  a  nervous  man  it  was  distressing,  but  Sir  William  is  a 
man  of  nerve  and  bought  it  as  a  present  for  a  friend  at  home,  with 
whom  he  promised  to  "get  even"  if  the  opportunity  ever  presented 
itself. 

The  clock  was  the  loudest  and  one  of  the  most  obstreperous  souve- 
nirs we  had  to  contend  with,  and  a  scheme  was  hatched  one  night  to  get 
rid  of  it.  An  indignation  meeting  over  the  clock  was  held  in  secret 
in  the  commissary  car,  and  by  ballot  one  was  chosen  to  "murder"  the 
clock  and  the  cuckoo. 

Entering  the  "stag"  coach,  the  one  assigned  to  the  deed  managed 
to  secure  the  instrument  of  torture  while  the  owner  was  peacefully 
sleeping.  Carrying  the  clock  to  the  door  of  the  car,  the  avenger 
hurled  it  out  into  the  stilly  night.  Whether  due  to  fright,  or  because  it 
was  time  to  do  so,  cannot  be  said,  but  just  as  the  clock  sailed  into  the 
air,  it  screamed  forth  a  piercing  "hoo  hoo !  hoo  hoo !"  that  was  almost 
frantic. 

Johnston,  the  colored  commissary  chef,  whose  ears  were  trained  to 
chicken  hunting,  heard  the  cry  in  the  darkness,  and  without  considering 
his  danger,  was  about  to  spring  from  the  train  and  give  professional 
attention  to  what  he  believed  to  be  a  chicken  without  friends.  It  was 
only  by  compulsion  that  he  was  detained,  and  no  argument  could  explain 
away  his  impression  that  a  chicken  had  really  called  for  aid  from  out 
of  the  darkness. 

Arriving  at  Kingman  for  luncheon  we  found  the  first  of  the  Har- 
vey restaurants,  a  string  of  eating  houses,  which  the  Santa  Fe  has 
made  famous  and  which  have  aided  materially  in  making  the  Santa 
Fe  famous.  The  Harvey  restaurant  is  a  happy  regulation  in  railroad 
government,  because  of  the  fact  that  ample  time  is  allotted  for  a  meal. 
No  five  minute  rushing  down  of  flabby  rolls,  muddy  coffee,  questionable 
eggs,  gutta-percha  beef,  and  pies  whose  conception  is  a  dark  secret  to 
all  but  the  pastry  cook  who  created  them. 

We  were  permitted  to  sit  down  and  enjoy  a  full  table  d'hote  dinner, 
with  ample  time  to  bite  everything  we  swallowed.  After  we  had  par- 
taken liberally  of  a  toothsome  meal,  we  still  had  time  to  promenade  on 
the  station  platform  for  a  few  moments  before  the  train  resumed  its 
course.  Not  only  was  this  experience  pleasingly  new,  but  the  wonder 
of  it  all  was  that  we  found  everything  appetizing  and  complete,  even 
though  we  were  on  the  desolate  desert. 

That  the  Harvey  restaurants  "draw  the  color  line"  was  made  appar- 
ent by  the  fact  that  Burry  was  refused  admittance  to  the  dining  room 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        253 

when  he  appeared  in  his  many-colored  sweater.  He  was  informed  that 
the  sweater  would  be  out  of  place,  because  it  was  so  loud  that  the 
waitresses  might  not  be  able  to  hear  the  orders.  He  was  respectfully 
asked  to  don  a  coat,  or  cage  the  sweater  in  some  graceful  manner. 

Mingling  among  us  on  the  station  platform  were  a  number  of 
Indians,  persistently  offering  their  wares  for  sale.  Several  squaws 
were  carrying  papooses  and  offered  the  babes  for  exhibition  at  five 
cents  a  peep. 

As  the  route  beyond  Kingman  offers  many  steep  grades,  two  engines 
were  attached  to  our  "special."  Sir  Coombs  announced  the  fact.  Sirs 
Baumann  and  Burry  understood  him  to  say  two  Indians  had  attacked 
our  train  and  immediately  took  to  the  war  path.  They  hurriedly  boarded 
the  train  and  made  a  vigorous  search  for  the  supposed  train  robbers.  It 
was  only  upon  the  positive  assurance  of  "Woodzie"  that  they  were  mis- 
taken that  they  decided  to  relax  their  efforts. 

Meanwhile,  those  who  were  not  enjoying  themselves  at  the  expense 
of  the  would-be  rescuers,  were  being  entertained  by  a  number  of  sup- 
posed mine  agents,  who  offered  all  sorts  of  alluring  inducements  to  en- 
courage the  purchase  of  what  purported  to  be  valuable  mining  stock. 
Par  value  was  no  consideration,  and  $10,000  worth  of  mining  stock  was 
offered  for  sale  from  $4  down  to  anything  the  buyer  wished  to  offer. 
However,  no  one  was  eager  to  pour  cash  into  the  pockets  of  the  energetic 
agents,  or  invest  in  a  mine  unseen. 

We  left  Kingman  with  fond  remembrances  of  our  brief  stay  and 
unique  experiences.  Our  train  set  out  at  a  fast  pace,  and  this  was  noted 
with  keen  interest,  because  of  the  fact  that  fuel  oil  was  being  used  instead 
of  coal.  It  is  said  that  this  sort  of  fuel  offers  a  more  uniform  heat 
than  coal,  is  easier  to  carry,  and  that  its  liberal  production  in  the  west 
places  it  at  the  disposal  of  the  railroads  at  a  very  nominal  cost.  Oil 
and  water  are  carried  over  the  desert  in  huge  tank  cars.  "Kunnie" 
stood  at  the  side  door  of  the  commissary  car  all  day  long  (kodak  under 
arm)  studying  human  nature  and  "jollying"  the  chef.  He  smoked 
royal  Havana  cigars  continually ;  we  could  inhale  the  aroma  in  the  rear 
of  the  observation  car.  We  were  under  the  impression  the  engine  was 
still  using  coal,  but  when  we  were  informed  that  oil  was  being  used, 
the  odor  of  the  smoke  was  attributed  to  "Kunnie's"  Havanas.  At 
night  we  occasionally  saw  a  blaze  of  fire  from  his  cigar — he  was 
taking  pictures  by  flash  light. 

While  en  route,  a  mock  trial  was  suggested  in  the  "stag"  coach 
and  the  necessary  officials  were  selected;  though  some  difficulty  was 
experienced  in  finding  a  sufficiently  guilty  prisoner.  However,  after  a 
careful  inquiry,  it  was  discovered  that  Sir  Burry  had  fallen  asleep,  and 
while  this  in  itself  was  deemed  a  crime  of  the  deepest  dye,  it  was  further 


254        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

agreed  to  bring  the  charge  against  him  of  stealing  the  ice  from  the 
water-cooler. 

It  was  unanimously  decided  that  Sir  Aeberli  should  serve  as  judge, 
and  he  was  provided  with  clerks  and  a  court  crier.  Sir  Sample  was 
the  counsel  representing  the  state  and  Sir  Bader  was  the  lawyer  assigned 
to  the  difficult  duty  of  defending  the  prisoner.  A  tipstaff,  constables 
and  sheriff  were  also  appointed  by  common  consent. 

At  last  the  case  was  ready  for  a  hearing  and  Sheriff  Heckel  assisted 
by  Constable  Coombs  went  after  the  prisoner,  each  armed  with  bows 
and  arrows  procured  from  the  Indians.  The  prisoner  was  awakened, 
and  when  apprised  of  the  charge  against  him,  made  a  vigorous  denial. 
Of  course,  like  all  other  suspects,  he  did  not  wish  to  serve  as  prisoner, 
but  it  was  here  the  strong  arms  of  the  sheriff  and  constable  exerted 
themselves.  He  was  brought  before  the  bar  of  injustice. 

Judge  Aeberli  jerked  a  barrel  up-side-down,  placed  a  box  on  the 
top  of  this  (as  his  seat  of  justice),  put  his  fatigue  cap  on  the  back  of  his 
head,  borrowed  a  chew  of  tobacco  from  the  prisoner,  and  declared: 
"Now,  boys,  the  court  is  open.  The  first  fellow  that  says  a  word  unless 
I  speak  to  him  will  get  paralyzed." 

After  much  challenging  a  jury  was  impaneled.  The  porter  was 
excused  by  both  sides  from  serving  on  the  jury,  because  he  admitted 
that  he  never  drank  ice  water.  Sir  Biddle  was  not  permitted  to  serve 
on  the  jury  for  expressing  the  opinion  that  ice  was  never  placed  in  rail- 
road water-coolers.  Sir  Benkart  was  challenged  by  the  defense,  as  he 
stated  that  he  had  known  the  prisoner  for  some  time  and  noticed  that 
he  always  took  things  coolly. 

After  the  jury  was  in  the  box  Attorney  Bader  for  the  defense, 
challenged  several  jurymen,  when  the  prisoner  announced :  "Stop !  They 
are  all  friends  of  mine !  I  want  you  to  challenge  the  judge!" 

"Your  words  shall  be  few,"  thundered  the  judge  from  the  bench  (or 
barrel.)  "We  want  nothing  but  silence  and  but  little  of  that !  Paste 
that  in  your  hat  for  future  reference!  Now  tell  your  story!" 

The  first  witness  for  the  state  was  Schwerd.  He  testified  that 
he  had  seen  railroad  employees  place  a  large  piece  of  ice  in  the  cooler 
at  Kingman,  and  that  he  had  turned  on  the  faucet  of  the  cooler  shortly 
after  and  that  nothing  but  water  came  out.  He  was  sharply  cross 
examined  but  to  no  avail.  The  next  witness,  Sir  Seiling,  testified  that 
he  had  heard  the  prisoner  admit  "taking  cold"  near  Kingman,  and  that 
after  the  ice  was  missed  the  prisoner  did  not  deny  an  accusation  that 
he  "took  the  cake."  Other  witnesses  gave  equally  damaging  evidence. 

The  defense  called  Sir  Lowrie,  who  stated  that  he  was  present  when 
the  prisoner  was  searched,  and  that  no  trace  of  the  ice  was  found 
on  his  person.  However  under  cross-examination,  he  acknowledged 
that  the  prisoner  had  admitted,  during  a  card  game,  that  he  had  "cold 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        255 

feet."  Another  witness  for  the  defense,  Sir  Steinmiller,  testified  that 
he  had  sought  a  drink  of  water  after  the  alleged  disappearance  of  the 
ice,  and  that  the  tank  still  bore  the  inscription  "water  cooler."  This 
point  was  used  to  demonstrate  the  fact  that  the  water  could  not  have 
been  "cooler"  if  the  ice  was  gone. 

Eloquent  pleas  were  then  made  before  the  jury  by  the  counsel  for 
both  sides ;  the  prosecution  dwelling  upon  the  enormity  of  the  crime  of 
stealing  ice  upon  the  desert,  while  the  defense  held  that  the  charge  of  the 
theft  of  a  piece  of  ice  was  a  "cold  conspiracy." 

When  Prosecutor  Sample  started  to  sum  up  his  case,  he  was 
gentle,  mild  and  quiet  in  manner;  but  gradually,  carrying  the  jury  with 
him,  he  became  enthusiastic.  He  thundered,  he  roared,  he  whooped, 
he  howled,  he  jarred  the  windows  and  doors,  he  sawed  the  air,  he  split 
the  horizon  with  his  clarion  notes,  he  tipped  over  the  barrel  (or  seat 
of  justice)  and  shed  a  few  suspender  buttons  while  the  prisoner  shed 
tears.  Of  all  the  mighty  masters  of  speech,  and  addresses  to  the  jury, 
history  has  consecrated  a  place  for  him,  for  the  manner  in  which  he 
forged  and  launched  his  thunder. 

Attorney  Bader  for  the  defense,  was  full  of  language  and  dis- 
pensed it  with  a  liberal  hand.  Like  the  dictionary,  one  word  led  on  to 
another.  He  maintained,  among  other  things,  that:  "evil  is  connected 
with  matter,  and  aside  from  matter  we  do  not  find  evil  existing  (the 
ice  melted).  That  is  true.  At  least,  such  evil  as  we  might  find  apart 
from  matter,  would  be  outside  the  jurisdiction  of  the  court.  Evil  and 
matter  are  inseparable.  So  what's  the  matter? 

The  jury  deliberated  at  length,  and  brought  in  the  verdict  of  "rob- 
bery in  the  thirty-second  degree."  The  loss  being  ice,  the  learned 
jurymen  naturally  settled  upon  the  thirty-second  degree  because  of  its 
being  the  freezing  point. 

In  passing  sentence  upon  the  prisoner,  who  persistently  denied  his 
guilt,  the  judge  reviewed  the  seriousness  of  the  offense,  declaring  that 
even  diamonds  and  gold  could  be  returned,  but  ice  once  stolen  could 
never  be  wholly  replaced.  He  then  announced  that  he  would  be 
especially  lenient,  because  of  the  previous  good  character  of  the  prisoner, 
and  sentenced  him  to  the  commissary  car  to  serve — refreshments. 

After  the  prisoner  had  faithfully  worked  out  his  sentence  to  the 
satisfaction  of  a  large  and  enthusiastic  audience,  the  gentlemen  of  the 
party  were  in  receipt  of  a  kind  invitation  extended  by  the  ladies,  to  be 
their  guests  at  an  entertainment  which  the  ladies  promised  to  provide. 
Using  the  abutting  platforms  of  two  coaches  as  a  stage,  they  presented 
a  program  of  song  and  recitations,  which  proved  to  be  one  of  the  most 
pleasing  entertainments  that  it  was  our  privilege  to  witness. 

Having  previously  passed  the  small  settlements  of  Hackberry  and 
Peach  Springs,  we  arrived  at  Seligman,  where  the  Pacific  time  changes 


256        A  MERRY  CRUSAjDE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

to  Mountain  time.  The  latter  is  an  hour  faster  than  the  former,  or  two 
hours  slower  than  Pittsburgh  time.  We  interviewed  our  watches  at 
this  point,  and  made  the  necessary  corrections,  after  which  cards  were 
suggested,  this  diversity  was  indulged  in  as  we  passed  the  town  of  Gleed 
and  arrived  at  Ash  Fork. 

Ash  Fork  is  an  important  railroad  junction.  Here  the  Santa  Fe, 
Prescott  &  Phoenix  railroad,  which  is  a  branch  of  the  Santa  Fe  system, 
connects  with  the  main  line  and  traversing  south  and  southeast,  enter- 
ing a  rich  mining  region  and  communicates  with  several  important  points 
for  a  distance  of  275  miles.  Passing  through  a  country  which  is  as  rich 
in  scenery  as  it  is  in  minerals,  one  reaches  the  important  city  of  Phoenix 
within  a  half  day.  Nearby  is  the  famous  Vulture  mine,  which  has  pro 
duced  $20,000,000  in  ore.  Near  Prescott  some  engineering  problems 
have  been  solved  by  rock-cuts,  trestles,  detours  and  loops.  World- 
famous  mineral  developments  lie  about  the  vicinity  of  Prescott.  Here 
are  the  Congress  and  Rich  Hill  gold  mines.  The  great  United  Verde 
copper  mine  is  at  Jerome,  reached  by  a  crooked  narrow  gauge  line 
which  passes  through  a  wild  country. 

As  we  left  Ash  Fork  night  was  falling  fast.  The  fading  of  sun- 
light and  the  approach  of  the  deep  eventide  shadows  cast  a  dreary 
desolation  over  the  desert.  A  glance  from  the  car  window  swayed  one 
with  a  solitude  that  had  the  touch  of  romance.  For  one  to  venture 
upon  that  unfertile  and  forsaken  waste  at  night,  would  be  like  renoun- 
cing the  world,  and  casting  oneself  into  utter  oblivion.  Eye  and  mind 
were  both  bewildered  as  we  centered  our  gaze  upon  the  interior  of  our 
brightly  lighted,  comfortable,  and  cheerful  cars. 

The  hour  was  late  when  we  arrived  at  Williams.  It  was  here  we 
were  to  take  the  new  branch  of  the  Santa  Fe  road,  which  brings  the, 
passenger  to  the  very  rim  of  the  Grand  Canyon.  The  route  is  65 
miles,  and  stands  as  a  monument  to  triumphant  engineering  skill,  and 
its  accomplishment  was  only  attained  after  the  expenditure  of  several 
fortunes. 

The  road  is  built  across  a  slightly  rolling  mesa;  in  places  thickly 
wooded,  in  others  open.  By  daylight  the  snow-capped  San  Francisco 
Peaks  can  be  seen  on  the  eastern  horizon,  while  Kendricks,  Sitgreaves 
and  Williams  mountains  are  also  visible.  Red  Butte,  thirty  miles 
distant,  is  a  prominent  landmark,  and  before  reaching  the  terminus,  the 
train  climbs  a  long,  high  ridge  and  enters  the  Coconino  Forest,  which 
resembles  a  natural  park.  The  grade  at  times  was  so  steep  that  three 
engines  were  used  after  we  left  Williams. 

As  we  sped  towards  the  Grand  Canyon  station  every  mind  was 
trained  in  expectancy  of  what  we  were  to  behold  on  the  morrow.  The 
beauties  and  magnificence  which  the  canyon  affords  are  of  such  wide 
reputation  that  we  were  impatient  to  see  and  realize  it.  Every  con- 


versation  turned  to  the  one  topic.  Just  before  we  reached  the  canyon 
our  train  came  to  a  sudden  stop,  to  await  the  passing  of  the  "Special" 
of  Pittsburgh  Commandery,  No.  I.  This  was  a  tremendously  heavy 
train,  and  the  largest  passenger  train  which  had  ever  crossed  the 
continent.  Our  Praters  were  returning  from  the  canyon,  and  as  we 
awaited  their  passing,  a  general  order  was  issued  to  give  them  a  rous- 
ing hurrah.  In  a  moment,  the  proud  majestic  train  came  whizzing 
past,  and  we  had  scarcely  time  to  give  them  a  rousing  cheer,  when  they 
passed  by.  All  was  quiet  aboard,  as  it  was  past  midnight,  and  if  we 
succeeded  in  awakening  them,  they  passed  us  before  they  realized  what 
had  happened. 

It  was  in  the  early  hours  of  the  morning  when  we  reached  Grand 
Canyon  Station.  Strange,  but  true,  all  were  asleep;  probably  because 
of  the  anticipation  of  an  active  day.  The  curtain  of  night  was  per- 
mitted to  remain  between  us  and  the  canyon,  and  we  were  satisfied  to 
await  the  dawn. 


CHAPTER  XXIX.     . 

HE  night  was  a  silent  one.  Unbroken  save  by  an  unromantic 
snore  emanating  from  the  "stag"  coach.  It  seemed  as  if  the 
slightest  sound,  even  if  it  were  a  hundred  miles  away,  should  be 
heard;  so  still  and  frosty  was  the  air  on  an  altitude  averaging 
over  7,000  feet.  Not  a  whisper  or  murmur  interrupted  the  tranquility 
throughout  the  night. 

At  half  past  four,  or  possibly  five  o'clock,  while  we  were  still 
dreaming  under  our  heavy  coverings,  our  arms  were  violently  pulled 
and  a  voice  cried  out:  "Get  up,  boys,  and  see  the  sun  rise." 

It  was  Sir  Gilchrist,  the  "Alarm  Clock,"  his  hearty  and  good-na- 
tured laugh,  which  not  only  forgave  him  his  sin,  but  compelled  the 
suffering  to  join  him,  was  second  only  to  the  "Oscar"  type.  He  shouted 
again  and  again,  until  all  were  astir:  "B-u-o-y-s,  here  is  the  sun!" 

With  natural  modesty,  because  of  our  negligee  attire,  window  cur- 
tains were  stealthily  raised,  but  when  we  viewed  the  splendor  without, 
they  were  boldly  thrown  aloft. 

The  world  was  ablaze!     We  seemed  to  be  winging  on  a  cloud 

high  in  the  heavens,  over  a  prodigious  abyss  of  space,  beyond  which 

the  Eastern  rim  of  all  the  world  seemed  to  be  on  fire  with  flaming 

light.    A  belt  of  splendid  rose  and  gold  illuminated  all  the  horizon, 

(17) 


258        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

darting  long  spears  of  glory  into  the  dark  sky  overhead;  gilding  the 
tops  of  a  thousand  hills,  scattering  over  the  deep  purple  earth  below 
and  casting  on  the  unbroken  background  of  clouds  beyond  an  enormous 
silhoutte. 

The  spectacle  was  one  of  unparalleled  splendor.  Moment  by 
moment  it  grew  more  wonderful  in  beauty  of  color  as  the  brilliant 
dawn  gave  birth  to  the  morn,  and  "Light"  came  rushing  on  Creation 
at  the  word  of  God.  The  sun  rolled  into  sight  and  flooded  the  world 
beneath  with  almost  insufferable  radiance. 

Notwithstanding  the  sinfully  early  hour  we  had  arisen,  all  were 
cheerful,  eager,  and  impatient  to  see  more  of  the  glories  offered  by  the 
majestic  canyon.  Hastening  our  dress,  we  proceeded  up  a  winding 
road  and  found  ourselves  on  the  verge  of  a  high  precipice  and  stand- 
ing upon  the  very  rim  of  the  Grand  Canyon. 

Here  the  universe  seemed  to  have  suddenly  yawned  asunder  and 
a  broad  underworld  that  reached  to  the  uttermost  horizon  rose  up 
before  us  in  a  vastness  that  appeared  as  great  as  that  of  the  world  itself. 
One  should  pause  and  remember  that  this  wonderful,  incomprehensi- 
ble canyon  is  217  miles  long,  13  to  18  miles  wide,  and  a  mile  deep, 
(vertically).  Think  of  it! 

This  great  stretch  of  vale  is  studded  with  enormous  rocks  of  many 
shapes  and  hues,  which  rise  and  fall  with  the  uncertainties  of  an  ocean 
wave.  They  glisten  and  sparkle  as  everlasting  monuments  to  Nature's 
architecture,  in  every  conceivable  form.  As  one  stands  on  the  brink 
of  this  immense  chasm  and  gazes  down  from  an  elevation  of  over  7,000 
feet,  the  wondrous  rock  formations  point  upward  in  a  million  forms, 
a  million  sizes,  and  a  million  color  combinations,  which  vary  with  the 
movement  of  the  sun.  Immense  and  lofty  Towers,  the  relics  of  a  pre- 
historic race,  rise  up  with  the  presence  and  aspect  of  awful  mysteries. 
Silent  and  sombre  Castles  with  their  fortified  and  obscure  remains  fes- 
tooned with  lace-like  webs  of  talus.  Stately  and  gorgeous  Temples, 
fretted  with  ornamental  devices,  impressive  in  their  solitude  and  empti- 
ness. Sharp,  violent  and  furious  crags;  yawning,  deep  chasms  of  gi- 
gantic proportions;  myriads  of  overwhelming  pinnacles;  bold  and  bare 
escarpments;  lofty  and  gigantic  peaks,  exquisitely  storm-carved;  ridges, 
winged-walls,  and  deep  angles  with  frowning  gashes  of  incredible 
depth — these  are  but  a  few  variations  of  the  great  sea  of  impressive 
architecture  in  rock  and  sand,  which  Nature  throws  open  between  the 
outer  rims  of  this  tremendous  expanse.  Slopes  and  innumerable  pyra- 
midal mountains  take  their  place  like  kingdoms  of  glory;  noble  ampi- 
theaters,  profound,  silent,  and  depopulated.  Wonderful  gorges ;  pictur- 
esque-colored galleries ;  wide  buttresses ;  projecting  hedges  hewn  into 
vast  shelves  of  granite ;  massive  cairns  in  monumental  heaps  and  a  chain- 
like  series  of  tremendous  and  deeply  indented  battlements  and  huge 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        259 

military  entrenchments,  are  strung  out  for  miles  and  are  lost  in  haze 
beyond  the  seeing  distance  of  the  eye.  Sublime  and  impressive  altars; 
huge  and  stately  cathedral  spires ;  balustrades  and  wide-spanning  arches ; 
domes  and  alcoves  that  would  frown  defiance  at  the  tempest;  groups 
of  magnificent  columns  with  lattice  work  and  delicate  carvings;  im- 
mense fleets  of  volcanic  cones,  titanic  cliffs,  buttes,  caves,  terraces  and 
minarets — a  labyrinth  of  huge  architectural  forms — massive  bulks  hewn 
from  the  gaudiest  rock  strata  that  tower  upward  1,000  to  6,000  feet, 
but  none  reaching  the  level  of  the  rim  upon  which  we  stood.  Some  of 
these  formations  are  a  mile  or  more  wide,  and  all  combine  to  awaken 
the  blended  sensations  of  awe  and  admiration.  As  we  viewed  this  pro- 
digious sight,  we  were  lost  and  hushed  in  astonishment. 

In  the  presence  of  a  sight  so  thrillingly  magnificent,  the  thought 
of  every  mortal  turns  at  once  to  communion  with  the  Supreme  Being. 
A  cry  of  "Great  Heaven"  comes  to  the  lips,  and  the  soul  realizes  the 
outburst  in  its  fullest  sense,  might,  glory  and  majesty.  The  vibrating 
cloudlets  in  the  canyon  below,  rolling  to  and  fro,  lightly  touch  the  rising 
peaks,  columns,  temples,  altars  and  pillars,  like  the  harpist  deftly  pick- 
ing his  instrument;  and  as  the  fleecy  waves  sway  gently  back  and  forth, 
they  seem  to  move  in  harmonious  sympathy,  in  musical  measure,  to 
that  ever  impressive  melody,  "Near-er,  Near-er  to  Thee." 

We  were  stunned  and  unable  to  comprehend  the  vastness  of  the 
mighty  scene.  Its  immensity  was  beyond  actual  realization  and  the 
surprises  and  revelations  it  offered,  came  as  an  inspiring  climax.  The 
rocky  upheavels  slowly  and  gradually  shaped  themselves^,  into  mimic 
battlements  and  castles,  and  out  of  rifted  clouds  came  broad  shafts  of 
sunlight  that  painted  all  with  bands  of  fire,  and  created  belts  of  sombre 
shadows  between. 

Great,  enormous  flocks  of  fleecy  clouds  and  cloudlets  wandered 
hither  and  thither  in  the  lower  air,  many  hundred  feet  below,  as  though 
they  were  feeling,  but  knew  not  where  to  land.  Swifter  and  swifter 
they  swayed  to  seek  escape — then  the  sun  pursued  them,  smote  and 
dissolved  them.  As  the  sun  mounted,  these  fleeces  of  cloudlets  arose, 
and  were  dissipated,  leaving  the  canyon  bare.  Down  in  the  far  depths 
white  puffs  begin  to  appear,  creating  a  scene  of  unrivalled  beauty,  as 
they  rise  and  overflow  the  rim,  and  become  entirely  dissipated  under 
the  devouring  glare  of  the  sun.  Again  and  again  came  the  marshaling 
in  the  depths,  the  rise  and  total  suffusion,  until  the  warm  walls  had 
spent  their  saturation,  and  the  sun  prevailed  in  undisputed  authority. 

For  the  moment  let  us  occupy  ourselves  with  the  superb  view — an 
astonishing  spectacle  beyond  all  dreams — that  unfolds  beneath  our  eyes 
the  most  beautiful  picture  that  human  eyes  can  rest  upon  in  the  broad 
universe !  What  a  silent,  curious  change  creeps  over  all  as  the  sun  rises 
from  out  of  the  horizon!  The  sharp  and  undeniable  light  streams 


260        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

through  every  opening.  The  eastern  wall  of  the  canyon  burns  with 
almost  living  flame,  while  to  the  west  the  shadows  are  cast  so  dark  that 
it  seems  as  if  night  had  lingered  there.  The  lower  canyon  is  in  solemn 
repose,  though  here  and  there  shadows  jump  from  nook  and  crevice  and 
hide  themselves  from  the  pursuing  sunlight.  Gradually  as  the  inner 
gorge  emerges  from  its  slumbers,  the  sunlight  leaps  about  with  sparkling 
vivacity,  and  the  whole  scene  becomes  a  moving  panorama  of  light  and 
shadow  mingled  with  celestial  beauty. 

Across  the  canyon  to  the  southwest,  where  the  sun  shines  with  all 
its  brilliancy,  hundreds  of  mighty  structures  of  rock,  miles  in  length, 
thousands  of  feet  in  height,  are  thrusting  themselves  out  of  the  depths 
into  forms  of  architecture  so  wild,  so  bold,  so  eccentric,  and  yet  grouped 
so  symmetrically!  Color  schemes  and  variated  tints  glisten  and  change. 
The  rainbow  in  all  its  individuality  of  beauty  pales  in  comparison  to  the 
blendings  and  interblendings  of  the  thousands  of  tints  and  shades  with 
which  the  Great  Artist  has  painted  His  masterpiece.  To  see  this  work 
of  the  Master,  under  the  first  rays  of  His  great  calcium,  is  to  feel  one's 
weakness  and  inability  in  giving  full  expression — language  fails,  words 
lose  the  power  of  expression,  description  is  impossible,  only  that  which 
God  himself  gave — the  soul — has  the  ability  to  appreciate. 

The  curtain  of  clouds  has  lifted — the  sun  has  taken  possession  with 
the  greetings  of  the  morn — the  temples,  amphitheaters  and  many-formed 
giants  of  architectural  beauty  stand  out  in  all  their  splendor  under  the 
light  of  day — yet  peace  and  absolute  quietude  prevails.  A  solemn,  sin- 
cere, and  thrilling  tranquility  brings  thoughts  of  eternal  rest  and  ever- 
lasting happiness!  Verily,  the  scene  is  stamped  upon  the  heart  as  an 
image  of  beauty;  to  remain  there  until  the  pulse  ceases.  No  impression 
of  gloom  or  terror  sways  the  mind,  and  all  thought  of  daily  strife  and 
troubles  recedes,  and  is  lost  in  yesterday. 

What  voices  spoke  and  cried  out  from  the  castles;  what  faces  faded 
from  the  earth  look  out  upon  us  from  the  gleaming  depths;  what 
Heavenly  promise  glistens  from  the  mighty  pyramids  of  rock,  dressed 
in  their  mantles  of  many  hues? 

As  we  soliloquized  in  these  thoughts,  we  were  sharply  brought  back 
to  the  more  material  in  life,  by  the  announcement  that  breakfast  awaited 
us  in  the  log  cabin  nearby.  We  hastened  hither,  silent  in  the  delight, 
glory,  beauty  and  inspiration  of  it  all.  Reluctantly  we  directed  our 
steps  from  the  canyon  brink  and  ate,  because  it  was  eating  time,  without 
any  desire  for  the  repast,  but  rather  because  it  was  a  duty  to  perform. 
It  is  but  needless  to  state  that  the  meal  was  a  hasty  one  and  that  impa- 
tience was  general. 

Following  breakfast  we  drove  about  the  rim  of  the  canyon,  stopping 
at  the  most  advantageous  viewpoints.  The  drive  in  itself  was  exhilarat- 
ing— not  only  because  of  the  high  altitude,  but  because  of  the  winding 


fcofo,  Putnam  &  Valentine.     Courtesy  Santa  Fe  R.  R.  \  .1 

A    VIEW    FROM    THE    NORTH     WALL. 


PAo/o,  Putnam  &  Valentine.     Courtesy  Santa  F£  R.  R. 

FROM    KAIBAB    PLATEAU,    LOOKING    SOUTH. 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        261 

course  which  led  at  times  to  the  very  brink  of  the  great,  deep  chasm, 
and  then  carried  us  away  again. 

Wherever  we  paused  to  look  and  wonder  at  this  great  and  incom- 
parable marvel,  there  was  newness  and  variety.  No  part  of  the 
immense  area  of  rock  is  duplicated.  Its  colors,  though  many  and  com- 
plex, vary  with  the  moving  sun,  minute  by  minute ;  while  passing  clouds, 
and  lights  and  shadow,  are  reflected  in  the  almost  constant  change  of 
color  effect. 

From  viewpoint  to  viewpoint,  the  marvels  multiplied.  Details  do 
not  impress  the  beholder  at  first  glance;  he  is  swayed  and  overwhelmed 
by  the  stupendous  ensemble.  The  river  channel  (that  of  the  Colorado), 
appears  as  a  slender,  silvery  thread,  as  it  winds  and  twists  itself  around 
the  tremendous  foundations  of  the  gigantic  and  massive  architectural 
rocks,  7,000  feet  below  the  level  of  the  eye. 

Inky  shadows  hover  in  the  depths;  pale  gildings  of  the  golden  rays 
of  the  sun  play  upon  the  spire  tips  of  the  cliffs  and  peaks;  titanic  paint- 
ings, in  variable  hues  of  pink,  red,  lavender,  vermillion,  gray  and  yellow, 
blend  and  interblend.  In  the  distance,  white  towers  stand  out  in  bold 
relief  amidst  a  purple  haze ;  and  suffusion  of  rosy  light,  gleam  in  the 
reflection  of  a  hundred  tinted  walls.  Colors  gladden  the  faces  of  these 
stony  monarchs.  The  huge  and  mighty  architectural  forms  would  be 
none  the  less  awesome  and  impressive  were  they  but  grim,  gray  stone. 
Perhaps  such  unity  of  color,  or  lack  of  color,  would  add  solemnity;  but 
Nature,  with  a  paint  with  which  the  world  is  unacquainted,  and  with  a 
brush  that  only  Divinity  can  wield,  has  heightened  their  glory  and  its 
own,  and  has  rounded  out  a  rhapsody  of  enchantment. 

As  we  leave  one  viewpoint  to  seek  another,  our  minds  are  occupied 
in  wonder  if  other  glories  and  more  astounding  miracles  are  to  be 
beheld.  Greater  and  more  stupendous  visions  seem  impossible,  and  yet, 
when  we  again  look  out  from  the  chasm's  brink  newer,  if  not  greater 
splendors  of  Nature's  achievement  lie  before  us. 

A  solemn  silence  broods  over  all.  No  warning  voice  of  danger 
comes  up  from  the  almost  bottomless  depths  which  yawn  for  prey.  Cities 
could  be  tossed  down  and  land  like  pebbles,  and  over  the  enormous 
expanse,  not  a  murmur  prevails — even  the  river  has  no  outcry,  as  it 
glides  smoothly  and  peacefully  along  its  course. 

As  the  mountain  ranges,  thousands  of  feet  in  height,  looked  up  to 
us  on  the  rim,  they  seemed  to  offer  a  silent  but  eloquent  sermon.  In  this 
great  gap  in  the  heart  of  the  earth,  there  are  no  worshippers,  save  a 
few  who  find  inspiration  to  pay  homage  to  Nature.  The  temples  seem 
too  sanctified  for  human  priesthood,  man  is  but  the  tiniest  atom,  as  he 
stands  in  their  presence.  Nature  itself  is  God's  appointed  celebrant.  Her 
age  and  experience  alone  can  fill  this  mighty  pulpit.  She  prays  silently, 
but  convincingly;  her  communions  know  no  comparison  in  impressive- 


262        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

ness.  In  thunder  she  starts  a  revival  that  makes  the  mountains  ring  with 
echo;  her  songs  of  praise  are  carried  forth  by  the  birds;  the  winds  are 
the  solemn  warnings  of  her  symphonies.  It  is  Nature's  pulpit,  and  to 
use  modern  conceptions,  her  sermons  are  illustrated. 

En  route  to  the  hotel  we  came  to  a  point  where  we  could  see  across 
a  broad  curve  in  the  canyon,  which  forms  an  immense  amphitheater  of 
splendid  towers  and  temples,  cliffs  and  gorges.  The  opposite  rim,  18 
miles  distant,  is  low  enough  to  permit  the  vision  to  range  out  over  the 
"Painted  Desert"  to  the  long,  irregular  battlements  of  Echo  Cliffs,  50 
miles  distant,  while  Navajo  Mountain  looms  up  on  the  horizon  over 
100  miles  away.  This  great  expanse,  which  lies  open  to  the  vision  of 
the  human  eye,  is  one  of  unbroken  chaos.  Probably  no  other  equal  area 
contains  so  many  supreme  marvels  or  so  many  masterpieces  of  Nature. 
The  spectacle  is  so  symmetrical,  and  so  completely  excludes  the  outside 
world  and  its  accustomed  standards,  that  it  is  with  difficulty  one  can 
acquire  any  notion  of  its  immensity. 

What  a  great  and  priceless  thing  is  a  new  interest !  How  it  takes 
possession  and  clings  to  the  one  interested!  We  were  in  this  category 
shortly  after  luncheon,  when  we  decided  to  "go  down  trail."  For  the 
benefit  of  the  uninitiated  it  might  be  well  to  explain  that 
"going  down  the  trail"  at  the  Grand  Canyon  means  the  ex- 
citing vocation  of  riding  or  walking  from  the  rim  of  the 
canyon  to  the  river,  a  distance  of  seven  miles,  over  wind- 
ing, twisting  and  curving  pathways.  Little  more  than  half  way  down 
the  trail  is  a  plateau,  upon  which  a  number  of  large  tents  are  continually 
kept  to  supply  refreshments,  and  provide  places  of  shelter  for  any  that 
might  be  overtaken  by  night  on  the  trail. 

Many  of  our  party  who  decided  to  make  the  novel  and  interesting 
trip,  agreed  to  ride.  Horses  and  mules  were  provided  at  the  log  cabin 
hotel.  Much  to  our  surprise  burros  were  not  used  to  carry  passengers. 
Sir  Pears  insisted  upon  having  a  burro,  but  there  were  none  to  hire. 
He  feared  to  make  the  trip  on  horseback,  and  refused  to  mount  a  mule. 
He  declared  as  a  measure  of  safety,  that  he  could  straighten  out  his  legs 
and  stand  up,  in  time  of  peril,  if  he  had  a  burro,  and  let  the  animal  walk 
from  under  him.  He  admitted,  however,  that  even  the  burro  has  its 
disadvantages — their  large  ears  interrupting  the  view. 

Sir  Baumann  could  not  pilot  his  mule  with  any  degree  of  certainty. 
Just  as  we  were  starting,  the  animal  scampered  and  zigzagged  across 
the  road,  bumping  and  pushing  into  the  others.  He  scraped  one  side 
against  a  cart  and  the  other  against  the  log  hotel,  giving  him  a  polishing 
first  on  one  side  and  then  on  the  other.  Finally  the  mule  sighted  the 
house  in  which  he  lived,  and  made  a  dash  for  it.  As  he  entered  the 
doorway,  which  was  low,  he  incidentally  scraped  Sir  Baumann  off  his 
back.  When  the  latter  picked  himself  up,  he  appeared  rather  discouraged, 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        263 

but  finally,  in  a  spirit  of  determination,  cried  as  Richard  III  had  cried: 
"Give  me  a  horse !  A  horse !  My  kingdom  for  a  horse" — or  else  I  walk. 

Sir  Joseph  J.  became  discouraged  early.  Someone  held  his  hand  as 
he  looked  over  the  brink.  One  glance  was  sufficient.  Shrinking  back,  he 
shuddered  and  declared :  "What  ?  I  should  say  not !  No  trail  for  me — 
seven  miles  down  and  a  thousand  miles  back !" 

It  was  an  anxious,  cautious  and  picturesque  procession  that  started 
"down  trail,"  and  drew  a  crowded  audience  to  the  rim.  The  older  folks 
watched  us  for  hours,  training  field  glasses  upon  us  until  we  appeared 
like  mere  flies  crawling  down  the  side  of  the  wall.  Efforts  were  made 
to  identify  the  various  members  of  the  party,  and  this  afforded  enter- 
tainment to  the  spectators. 

The  animals  entered  upon  their  perilous  journey  with  measured, 
unfaltering  step.  As  a  matter  of  fact,  the  "down  trail"  tour  is  more 
perilous  for  animal  than  man,  although  there  is  enough  anxiety  for  both 
to  make  it  a  thrilling  and  strikingly  unusual  one. 

The  noble  and  faithful  animals  jogged  along,  sometimes  at  a  canter 
when  the  road  permitted,  but  always  with  a  degree  of  care.  The  bridle 
lines  are  not  held  by  the  rider.  Instead,  one  hand  is  held  on  a  pommel 
on  the  front  of  the  saddle,  and  the  other  hand  on  the  rear  of  the  saddle. 
The  greater  portion  of  the  time  the  animals  carry  their  heads  between 
their  fore  legs,  swinging  them  up  and  down  in  harmony  with  carefully 
chosen  steps. 

The  pathway  itself  was  merely  a  narrow  shelf  cut  into  the  face  of 
the  precipice.  It  averaged  four  feet  wide  for  the  seven  miles,  and 
naturally  the  descent  had  to  be  made  in  processional  style.  It  was  not 
an  exhibition  drill,  but  the  command  to  remain  "single  file"  was  never 
violated.  At  times  we  could  look  over  the  edge  of  the  narrow  gallery 
and  see  a  bottomless  wall  of  rock,  which  was  upholding  us ;  occasionally 
we  saw  the  bottom  of  the  precipice  upon  which  we  were  riding,  several 
thousand  feet  below;  in  some  places  this  could  only  be  accomplished  by 
dismounting  carefully,  and  lying  down  and  peering,  over  the  edge — 
though  many  did  not  care  to  do  so  for  fear  of  soiling  their  clothes,  and 
for  other  reasons  more  fearsome. 

Portions  of  the  path  were  so  steep  that  flights  of  zigzag  tree-stumps 
had  been  driven  into  it  to  afford  the  animals  a  sure  footing,  in  carrying 
their  human  freight  in  safety.  These  stumps  were  inserted  in  step-like 
fashion,  and  the  noble  animals  would  carefully  measure  each  step  before 
making  it.  At  times  they  would  bring  down  a  fore  foot,  and  landing 
upon  a  smooth  surface,  would  sprawl  out,  only  to  recover  instantly  and 
secure  safer  footing.  At  such  times  when  the  animal  failed  to  secure  a 
firm  footing,  earth  and  rock  went  clattering  over  the  edge,  and  as  it 
bounded  and  rebounded  down  the  ravine,  the  echo  struck  a  thrill  into 
the  heart,  and  touched  a  chord  of  uncertainty. 


264        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

For  the  greater  part  of  the  way  the  trail  was  abrupt,  though  at 
times  a  stretch  of  almost  level  path  lay  before  us,  which  instilled  confi- 
dence and  bravery,  as  we  sat  straight  in  the  saddle  and  almost  scoffed 
at  the  idea  of  danger.  At  best,  however,  it  was  a  rough,  narrow  trail 
through  a  wilderness  of  billowy  upheavals;  of  miniature  mountains  rent 
asunder;  of  gnarled  and  knotted,  wrinkled  and  twisted  masses  of  rock 
interlaced  and  mingled  together.  Over  this  twisting,  turning,  curving, 
far-stretching  pathway  there  was  ever  present  the  thrilling  suggestion 
of  a  life  free  of  all  care.  With  all  its  thrills,  with  all  its  possibilities  of 
danger  and  utter  destruction;  the  environments  inculcated  a  feeling  of 
carelessness,  that  in  words  might  be  expressed:  "Where  else  is  a  better 
place  to  die — where  lies  a  shorter  road  to  heaven?"  And  yet,  while  the 
soul  may  be  swayed  by  the  spirit  of  "I-don't-care,"  the  first  law  of 
nature — self-preservation — takes  possession  of  the  physique. 

With  the  continued  persistence  of  the  animals  to  take  the  very  outer 
edge  of  the  path,  you  handle  yourself  carefully  all  the  time,  under  the 
impression  that  your  weight  will  start  your  carrier  falling  over  the  preci- 
pice. Unconsciously  you  do  not  bear  heavily  upon  his  back,  but  con- 
stantly lean  over  toward  the  inner  side  of  the  path.  As  a  matter  of  fact, 
this  is  the  wrong  thing  to  do,  for  with  your  body  bent  toward  the  inside 
of  the  path,  an  angle  is  created  with  the  animal  at  the  saddle,  and  with 
your  body  in  a  vertical  position  there  is  an  incentive  to  push  the  animal 
into  the  yawning  abyss.  But  one  doesn't  figure  out  the  geometrical 
position  under  such  conditions. 

For  the  first  mile  or  two  your  flesh  creeps,  until  you  become  fully 
acquainted  with  your  animal — then  you  place  all  confidence  in  him,  and 
if  you  ever  loved  a  horse  or  mule,  and  respected  his  noble  qualities,  it 
is  upon  such  occasion.  The  mind  of  the  animal  seems  to  act  with  yours 
in  perfect  harmony.  He  knows  what  to  do — often  better  than  you. 
Mental  telegraphy  seems  established,  and  when  you  speak  and  give  advice 
to  your  steed,  he  responds  with  almost  human  intelligence. 

We  were  led  by  a  guide  on  horseback,  who  now  and  again  snatched 
twigs  and  limbs  from  overhanging  trees,  and  offered  them  to  us  for 
whips.  But  none  had  use  for  them.  The  noble  animals  were  plodding 
along  with  all  necessary  speed,  ever  anxious  to  finish  the  journey,  but 
never  so  eager  as  to  become  careless.  To  use  an  instrument  of  punish- 
ment upon  such  noble  and  trusted  servants  would  have  been  a  rebuke 
against  faithfulness  and  an  insult  to  kindness. 

At  times  our  path  became  surrounded  by  hideous  desolation.  We 
stepped  forward  to  sort  of  jumping-off  places,  and  were  confronted  by 
a  startling  contrast.  Four  or  five  thousand  feet  below  us  was  the  river, 
walled  in  on  all  sides  by  gigantic  precipices,  and  out  of  these  rose  the 
domes,  the  castles,  the  peaks  and  the  hundreds  of  oddly  shaped  masses 
of  architecture. 


HOTEL    EL    TOVAR. 


Cofyright,  7900,  by  t '.  H.  Maude.     Courtis}  Santa  /•'<*  R.  R. 

DESCENDING    WALLAPAI    TRAIL    INTO    CATARACT    CANYON. 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        265 

What  an  imposing  picture  was  this  single-file  procession  standing  on 
the  rim  of  a  wall  but  four  feet  wide.  Nothing  between  the  edge  and 
Eternity!  No  hand  rail  or  guard  of  any  kind  to  protect  the  pedestrian 
or  horseman. 

At  each  of  the  many  turns  along  the  trail,  our  noble  steeds  afforded 
a  dramatic  element  to  the  journey  which  at  first  struck  us  with  thrilling 
fear.  Instead  of  taking  these  many  turns  with  a  curving  sweep,  the 
animals  would  turn  at  sharp  right  angles,  continuing  to  the  very  outer 
edge  of  the  path,  and  stand  there,  before  turning  about  and  following 
the  trail.  As  they  walked  out  and  took  a  standing  position  at  the  very 
extreme  of  the  path,  they  threw  up  their  heads  in  proud,  peacock-like 
position,  and  silently  survey  the  majestic  panorama  that  lay  spread  out 
far  in  the  depths  below.  Now  and  again,  they  would  swing  their  heads 
from  left  to  right,  and  from  right  to  left,  as  if  pointing  out  some  object 
of  interest  to  the  reinsman.  Then,  with  a  parting,  haughty  inspection 
of  all  that  lay  below,  they  turned  about,  and  pursued  the  path  with  the 
same  meek  careful  step  that  had  brought  them  to  the  point  of  observa- 
tion. Occasionally,  when  the  trail  was  steep,  but  not  treacherous,  the 
animals  would  canter  for  a  time,  only  to  slacken  their  pace  when  danger 
lurked  ahead.  Then,  with  another  turn  in  sight,  the  same  desire  and 
impulse  to  look  over  the  brink  seized  them  and  they  stood  statue-like  on 
the  edge.  A  kind  word — "be  careful  Johnney — Johnney — Johnney"  with 
an  affectionate  patting,  would  bring  a  knowing  response,  and  an  endeavor 
on  the  part  of  the  animal  to  secure  a  sure  footing.  Sometimes  our 
positions  seemed  so  perilous  that  we  would  gasp,  but  confidence  in  our 
carriers  was  never  misplaced. 

The  width  of  the  trail,  except  at  occasional  turns,  would  not  permit 
the  passing  of  two  animals,  and  in  order  to  signal  parties  coming  up, 
to  await  us  at  the  proper  points,  our  guide  called  out  a  signal  that  re- 
echoed down  the  canyon  with  increasing  volume  as  if  a  mighty  chorus 
was  answering  in  the  depths  below.  So  narrow  was  the  major  portion 
of  the  pathway,  that  tourists  were  compelled  to  crawl  underneath  the 
animals  in  order  to  pass. 

When  such  a  pass  had  to  be  made,  we  took  the  inside,  flattening 
ourselves  against  the  canyon  wall.  While  this  is  but  human  nature,  we 
had  no  choice  in  the  matter,  because  the  animals  invariable  chose  the 
outside.  This  has  become  second  nature  with  them,  in  fear  of  scratching 
and  tearing  their  sides  against  the  ragged  rocks,  and  in  a  place  of  that 
kind  a  mule's  preference  is  always  to  be  respected. 

When  not  engaged  in  carrying  tourists  the  animals  transport  panniers 
of  water  and  merchandise.  These,  hanging  bulkily  on  their  side,  do  not 
permit  them  to  take  the  inside.  When  they  are  promoted  from  the 
freight  to  the  passenger  department,  they  cling  to  early-formed  habits, 
and  keep  one  of  the  passenger's  legs  dangling  over  the  mighty  depths  of 


266        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

the  lower  world,  while  the  passenger's  heart  is  in  heaven,  so  to  speak, 
and  he  assumes  a  look  as  if  feeling  somewhat  unwell. 

A  touch  of  true  western  realism  is  added  when  the  guide  calls  a 
halt,  and  crawls  along  the  narrow  pathway,  offering  the  tourists  a  drink 
from  his  buck-skin  canteen,  which  he  carries  strapped  to  his  side. 

As  we  approach  "the  tents"  a  stretch  of  almost  level  path  is  encoun- 
tered. Here  we  assumed  an  air  of  bravado,  sitting  erect,  arms  folded, 
we  became  horsemen  of  fearless  nature.  Arriving  at  "the  tents"  which 
are  located  on  a  natural  resting  place  of  table  land,  we  stopped  and  par- 
took of  light  refreshments.  It  seemed  surprising  to  find  sustenance  in 
such  a  place,  and  it  was  only  by  means  of  the  freight  department  of  the 
mule  and  horse  railway  that  this  oasis  has  been  created. 

After  a  brief  rest,  we  continued  our  journey  down  to  the  river. 
This  last  stretch  of  the  trail  has  been  properly  termed  the  "cork-screw," 
for  it  winds  in  such  a  succession  of  curves  and  bends  that  it  can  only  be 
likened  to  the  instrument  whose  name  it  bears. 

The  path  was  the  most  remarkable  we  had  ever  seen ;  curving  down 
the  face  of  the  colossal  precipice — a  narrow  way,  with  the  solid  rock 
wall  at  one  elbow,  and  a  mighty  depth  and  perpendicular  nothingness  at 
the  other.  The  steep  and  narrow  course  gave  startling  glimpses  into 
the  ravine  below  (for  it  is  still  about  three  miles  to  the  river  by  the  path)" 
and  disclosed  the  massive  and  magnificent  aspect  of  an  enormous  abyss. 
Down  and  ever  down  goes  the  trail,  one  gorge  opening  below  the  other, 
until  the  verge  of  the  final  gorge  is  reached.  Here  the  river  runs,  at  a 
depth  of  a  thousand  feet  further.  Everything  is  desolate;  the  vegeta- 
tion sparse,  with  a  few  stunted  trees  here  and  there.  The  river,  which 
seemed  as  if  but  a  silvery  thread  from  the  brink,  is  now  expanded  by 
the  nearer  view  into  large  proportions. 

A  full  realization  of  the  enormity  of  the  cliffs  and  the  depths  of  the 
valleys  and  crevices  of  the  Grand  Canyon,  cannot  be  conveyed  to  the 
mind  until  one  has  crawled  down  to  the  river  bed,  and  glanced  upward 
into  the  narrowed  sky.  In  the  vastness  of  the  canyon  and  the  hundreds 
of  separating  cliffs,  one  can  gain  but  a  meager  conception  of  the  labyrinth 
of  gorges.  Yet  this  revelation  of  the  immensity  of  the  canyon,  small 
as  it  might  be,  offers  a  peep  into  a  wonderland,  which  mortal  man  has 
never  conceived. 

In  places,  the  river  thunders  with  a  perpetual  roar,  swelling  into 
a  rampant  flood;  then  it  fades  away  in  slowly  reducing  murmurs,  until 
it  smoothly,  silently  and  mysteriously  vanishes  between  huge  gates  of 
granite.  Rounding  a  bend  stealthily  and  silently,  it  encounters  rock  ribbed 
beds  impeding  its  way.  Here  it  rises  to  the  full  madness  of  violent  agi- 
tation, and  roaring  and  plunging  frantically,  it  meets  and  overcomes  its 
obstruction  with  loud  acclaim  that  re-echoes  through  the  canyon;  then, 
assuming  its  even  temperament  once  more,  it  passes  away  as  silently  as 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        267 

it  came.  And  yet,  the  Colorado  is  a  lonely  river  as  it  wends  its  way 
through  the  Grand  Canyon.  It  knows  no  voice  but  its  own — the  music 
and  melodies  heard  in  the  gorges  are  but  repetitions  of  its  own  sound. 
The  lonely  wayfarer,  standing  upon  its  brink,  is  but  a  mere  atom  to  the 
haughty  stream. 

Dwarfed  by  prodigious  mountain-like  shores,  which  rise  from  the 
water's  edge,  it  is  difficult  to  correctly  estimate  the  width  and  volume  of 
the  river.  Its  width,  as  we  saw  it,  was  between  250  and  300  feet;  its 
velocity  15  miles  an  hour,  while  at  times  its  volume  and  turmoil  was 
equal  to  that  of  the  Niagara.  When  in  its  angriest  mood,  it  tosses  a 
drift  of  huge  tree  trunks  into  the  air  as  if  they  were  shavings  driven 
by  the  wind. 

Even  in  the  most  dangerous  parts  of  the  canyon,  between  the  most 
terrific  rapids,  are  stretches  of  calm  water.  It  is  only  when  one  stands 
on  the  bank  and  notes  how  fickle  the  waters  really  are — how  violently 
treacherous,  how  alluringly  passive — that  he  realizes  what  heroic  ex- 
ploits were  those  of  the  first  navigators,  who  traced  what  had  previously 
been  a  mysterious  river  course.  It  was  only  by  exploring  the  Colorado 
River,  and  persistently  following  its  course,  that  it  became  possible  to 
explore  the  Grand  Canyon,  and  locate  such  points  where  a  trail  to  the 
rim  could  be  established. 

The  civilized  world  first  learned  of  the  existence  of  the  Grand 
Canyon  in  1540,  when  Spanish  explorers,  moving  northward  from  Mex- 
ico, went  out  in  search  of  the  "Seven  Cities  of  Cibola."  This  expedition 
failed  in  every  effort  to  descend  the  canyon,  and  only  caught  glimpses 
of  the  river  from  afar.  Two  other  expeditions  during  the  same  year 
resulted  only  in  exploring  the  river  for  a  comparatively  short  distance 
above  its  mouth.  In  1776  another  Spaniard,  traveling  southward 
through  Utah,  struck  off  from  the  Virgin  River  to  the  southeast,  and 
found  a  crossing  at  a  point  which  now  bears  the  name  "Vado  de  los 
Padres." 

For  80  years  after  no  important  exploration  was  made,  until  1857, 
when  the  War  Department  dispatched  an  exploring  party  under  direc- 
tion of  Lieutenant  Ives  of  the  engineer  corps.  With  a  little  steamer 
known  as  the  "Explorer,"  he  managed  to  ascend  the  Colorado  River  as 
far  as  the  mouth  of  the  Rio  Virgin,  but  was  then  compelled  to  fall  back 
and  join  a  pack  train  on  shore.  After  a  continued  detour,  he  ascended 
the  plateau  through  which  the  canyon  is  cut,  and  after  an  adventurous 
journey,  returned  with  much  valuable  information. 

Twelve  years  later,  in  1869,  Lieutenant  Wheeler  was  ordered  by  the 
chief  engineer  of  the  army  to  explore  the  canyon  from  below.  He  suc- 
ceeded in  reaching  the  mouth  of  Diamond  Creek,  but  was  compelled  to 
•return,  although  he  also  brought  back  revelations. 

In  the  same  year  Major  J.  W.  Powell  succeeded  in  making  a  peril- 


268        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

ous  tour  along  the  river,  from  what  is  now  known  as  Green  River  Sta- 
tion, through  the  whole  course  of  canyons  to  the  mouth  of  the  Rio  Vir- 
gin, a  distance  of  more  than  i,coo  miles,  and  an  expedition  that  proved 
of  unestimable  value  to  the  world. 

Major  Powell's  success  was  attained  in  the  face  of  emphatic  remon- 
strances from  those  best  acquainted  with  the  region,  including  the  In- 
dians, who  declared  the  boats  could  not  exist  among  the  known  rapids 
and  water  falls.  It  was  also  believed  that  the  river  sought  a  subterran- 
ean course  for  a  greater  portion  of  the  way. 

Encouraged  by  his  remarkable  success,  Major  Powell  entered  upon 
another  expedition  in  the  summer  of  1871.  After  a  year's  effort,  he 
descended  the  river  and  discovered  paths  down  into  the  canyon  from 
the  northern  rim.  The  next  year  he  passed  through  the  greater  portion 
of  the  canyon  in  rowboats,  and  in  subsequent  years  made  astonishing 
discoveries  through  the  surrounding  country. 

Others  sought  to  follow  Major  Powell  in  riding  the  turbulent  waters 
of  the  Colorado,  but  the  great  majority  of  these  brave  men  found  their 
graves  along  the  banks  of  the  wild  stream.  In  1889,  Robert  Brewster 
Stanton,  together  with  a  party  of  railroad  engineers,  started  at  the  head 
of  Marble  Canyon  and  made  their  way  down  the  river  and  secured  an 
extended  railroad  survey  along  its  course.  Other  adventurous  travel- 
ers have  since  explored  various  sections  of  the  region,  but  there  still 
remain  vast  areas  which  have  not  yet  known  the  footprint  of  man,  and 
which  at  this  time  seem  wholly  inaccessible. 

The  Colorado  River,  upon  whose  demand  creation  was  wrought 
asunder,  and  the  Grand  Canyon  formed,  in  order  to  allow  it  progress, 
is  a  stream  of  no  mean  dimensions.  Formed  in  southern  Utah  by  the 
unison  of  the  Green  and  Grand  Rivers,  it  intersects  northwestern  Ari- 
zona, becomes  a  boundary  line  of  Nevada  and  California,  and  ploughs 
its  way  through  arid  plains,  dense  forests,  and  formidable  mountains. 
It  drains  a  territory  approximated  at  300,000  square  miles,  and  from 
the  rise  of  its  principal  source,  is  2,000  miles  long. 

At  the  courteous  request  of  the  guide  to  hasten,  as  the  hour  was 
growing  late,  we  started  on  the  upward  journey,  but  not  until  the  faith- 
ful animals  had  been  watered  and  appreciatively  caressed.  Following 
the  instructions  of  our  guide  we  tread  in  his  footsteps,  as  he  led  the 
way.  On  the  whole,  it  was  easier  going  up,  than  down  the  trail — we 
were  more  familiar  and  could  distinguish  the  route  and  see  such  dangers 
that  in  going  down,  could  only  be  felt. 

Up,  up  the  "cork  screw"  we  climbed — the  animals  hastening  dili- 
gently. We  patted  them  affectionately,  and  this  seemed  to  encourage 
continued  effort.  It  appeared  remarkable  that  an  animal  could  make 
such  a  sharp  ascent  as  the  "cork  screw"  and  retain  such  lasting  qualities. 
They  labored  continually,  hastening  up  and  up  the  steep  and  narrow 


Photo,  G'.  L.  Host.      Courtesy  Santa    k'6  R.  R. 


A    BRIEF    REST,     BRIGHT    ANGEL    TRAIL. 


O,   W.  US.  Ban.      Courtis)  Santa  Fe  R.  R. 

A    STRETCH    OF    CALM    WATER,    THE    COLORADO    RIVER. 


Photo,  If.  H.  Knaf.      Couesfrt  Santa  Fl  R.  R. 

COLORADO    RIVER,    FOOT    OF     BRIGHT    ANGEL    TRAIL. 


trail,  with  head  constantly  on  the  side  of  the  animal  in  front,  as  though 
anxious  to  pass  him.  There  seemed  to  be  a  general  competition  to  be  in 
the  lead. 

On  the  up  trail  it  is  not  necessary  to  pause  to  view  the  magnificent 
panorama — it  is  ever  before  you.  The  glories  that  were  revealed  in 
the  depths  of  the  canyon,  near  the  close  of  day,  were  beyond  the  imag- 
ination of  poet  or  artist.  Deep,  inky  shadows ;  veils  of  pale  light  were 
playing  upon  the  lofty  spires,  while  the  many-colored  columns  and  tow- 
ers and  domes  blended  and  interblended  as  they  became  deserted  by  the 
sun.  The  beholder  becomes  unmindful  of  fatigue,  while  immersed  in 
these  beauties  of  nature. 

Songs  came  to  our  lips — lullabys  of  cradledom,  that  had  gone  un- 
sung for  a  score  of  years.  It  seemed  as  if  nature  had  carried  us  back 
with  one  sweep  to  the  simplest  of  our  lives — babyhood — and  brought 
forth  the  melodies  of  toyland  as  of  old. 

Arriving  at  "the  tents"  we  found  that  the  descent  had  afforded  us 
a  familiarity  with  the  surroundings  that  was  close  to  intimacy.  The 
terrific  depths  of  the  castles  and  turrets  were  barely  discernible,  and 
were  it  not  for  the  aid  which  memory  afforded  us,  we  could  not  have 
distinguished  many  of  the  known  landmarks  of  the  trail.  But  the  pano- 
rama itself,  is  the  overmastering  charm.  Always  changing — never  twice 
the  same.  As  the  angle  of  sunlight  changes,  an  army  of  ghost-like, 
colossal  forms,  march  out  from  the  farther  side,  which  had  appeared  as 
a  solid  wall  of  rock.  The  scene  changes  incessantly,  flushing  and  fading 
and  advancing — then  dwindling  into  nothingness  in  the  slumberous 
haze. 

We  were  requested  by  the  attendants  to  remain  at  "the  tents"  over 
night.  "It  will  be  dark  before  you  reach  the  rim — would  you  venture 
to  ascend  so  late?"  was  the  question  asked.  We  decided  to  go  on. 

As  we  continued,  we  came  upon  a  stretch  of  almost  level  path,  for 
a  mile  or  so.  We  scampered  through  the  foliage  at  a  pacing  gait.  It 
required  our  fullest  energies  to  remain  in  the  saddle.  The  guide  kept 
far  in  the  lead,  like  a  pacemaker  encouraging  his  followers  to  greater 
speed.  With  shoulders  bent  over  his  horse's  neck,  he  urged  his  animal 
to  continued  effort. 

When  we  again  struck  the  steep,  winding,  turning,  and  narrow 
pathway,  the  animals  were  permitted  to  progress  more  leisurely,  and  we 
again  broke  out  in  song.  The  animals  kept  time  with  heavy  plodding, 
bringing  down  their  hoofs  with  deliberation  in  picking  their  way  up  the 
steep  path. 

Arriving  at  one  of  the  wide  turns,  a  whistling  signal  from  behind 
rent  the  air.  Our  guide  turned  about  and  requested  us  to  corral  in 
the  bend.  As  we  huddled  together  in  as  small  a  group  as  possible, 
a  train  of  burrows  carrying  water,  came  hurrying  up  the  trail.  The 


animals  were  in  charge  of  a  guide  who  followed  in  the  rear,  and  sig- 
nalled his  "temperance  outfit"  by  means  of  a  peculiar  whistle,  which 
they  thoroughly  understood. 

We  followed  in  the  footsteps  of  the  water-carriers  and  continued 
the  persistent  climb;  laughing,  jesting  and  singing.  While  still  im- 
mersed in  this  light  vein  some  one  cried  out:  "Look!  Look!  The 
Canyon  is  in  sunset!"  What  a  marvel  faced  us! 

A  rich  carmine  flush  that  suffused  the  western  sky  and  cast  a  ruddy 
glow  far  over  the  great  expanse  of  table-land,  was  penetrating  the  can- 
yon. It  was  soft,  sensuous,  lovely,  exquisite, — a  gorgeous  conflagra- 
tion that  flamed  in  the  track  of  the  sinking  sun.  As  it  cast  its  soft 
radiance  into  the  canyon  depths,  it  created  an  earthly  paradise.  Colors 
were  intensified.  The  red  sandstone  burned  like  coal  aflame,  while  the 
golden  and  rose-tinted  walls  shone  with  a  brilliancy  that  blended  into 
the  blaze  of  a  fire  of  ruby  and  garnet  on  the  rim  above.  The  sky  was 
gorgeous  with  a  soft  but  bright  light,  which  sparkled  and  reflected  upon 
the  pinnacles  of  rock. 

One  never  can  tire  of  the  charm  and  fascination  that  comes  with 
the  silent  transformations,  as  the  sun  seeks  its  rest  and  casts  its  parting 
rays  over  the  canyon.  As  the  depths  are  slowly  cloaked  with  mysterious 
purple  shadows,  and  the  loftiest  spirals  are  tipped  with  gold,  and  stand 
in  bold  contrast  against  the  leaden  horizon,  the  scene  is  one  of  such 
brilliancy  and  indescribable  beauty  that  its  equal  can  nowhere  else  pre- 
vail. 

Then  darkness  fell  and  night  brimmed  out  of  the  deep.  And  as  the 
moon  broke  forth  from  the  far  horizon,  a  thousand  spectral  forms  pro- 
jected from  inscrutable  gloom.  They  were  the  dreams  of  the  moun- 
tains, as  in  their  sleep  they  brood  on  things  eternal. 

We  hastened  upward;  unmindful  of  the  path,  permitting  the  ani- 
mals free  rein  to  seek  their  way,  for  we  were  intent  upon  gazing  into 
the  sunset-painted  canyon.  As  we  looked,  the  canyon  seemed  lighted 
from  within.  It  was  an  abyss  of  shadow  and  mystery,  and  the  same 
sadness  prevailed  as  in  all  great  things  of  Nature,  that  removes  it  from 
human  experience. 

There  is  a  subtle  charm  in  climbing  up  and  down  the  canyon  that 
cannot  be  properly  expressed.  It  seems  to  be  inherent  in  every  human 
being  to  scale  every  height  and  seek  the  bottom  of  every  depth;  and 
what  abundant  opportunity  the  canyon  affords  for  the  realization  of  such 
ambitions.  The  exhilaration,  the  charm,  the  inspirations,  the  fascina- 
tion that  attracts  and  sways  one,  is  beyond  the  happiest  realization  of  a 
soul's  desire.  We  had  never  experienced  it  before.  Once  felt,  leaves 
always  behind  it  a  restless  longing  to  feel  it  again — a  longing  which  is 
like  homesickness;  a  grieving,  haunting  yearning;  which  will  plead, 


Photo,  (V.  L.  Rose.      Courtesy  Santa  Ft  R.  R. 

RUINS    OF    CLIFF    DWELLINGS,    WALNUT    CANYON,    ARIZONA. 


Photo,  Putnam  &  Valentine.      Courtesy  Santa  Fe  R.R. 

LIMESTONE     CAVES,    GRAND    VIEW    TRAIL. 


Copyright,  l8q(),by  H.  G.  Peabody.      Council  Santa  Fe  R.  R. 

ON    GRAND    VIEW    POINT. 


Cofjright,  /AV<?,  by  H.  G.  Ptabody.      Courttst  Santa  ft  R.  R. 

BISSELL    POINT    AND    COLORADO    RIVER. 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        271 

implore,  and  persecute  till  it  has  its  will.  Life  seemed  anew;  we  were 
in  a  new  world,  and  saw  with  new  eyes. 

Dinner  had  been  served  several  hours  when  we  reached  the  log 
cabin  hotel  on  the  rim,  but  a  special  meal  was  provided  for  us.  The 
guide  informed  us  that  we  came  up  the  trail  at  a  later  hour  than  any 
party  for  several  years. 

It  was  upon  our  return  to  the  log  cabin  hotel  that  we  met  John 
Hance.  The  Grand  Canyon  and  "Old  John"  Hance,  as  he  is  familiarly 
known,  are  inseparable.  He  came  to  the  canyon  about  15  years  ago, 
as  a  prospector.  It  was  a  case  of  love  at  first  sight  (on  the  part  of 
"Old  John")  and  he  has  dwelt  in  the  canyon,  summer  and  winter,  ever 
since.  During  the  summer  he  occupies  a  cabin  on  the  rim,  and  when 
the  winds  of  winter  begin  to  blow,  he  drives  his  cattle  7,000  feet  below, 
to  find  a  perpetual  summer  and  pasture  land,  protected  by  the  cliffs  of 
the  canyon.  The  stories  of  his  explorations  and  exciting  experiences 
are  highly  interesting,  and  his  loyalty  to  his  only  love,  the  canyon,  is 
ever  respected. 

As  night  covered  the  canyon  with  the  fullness  of  its  sombre  robe, 
we  walked  toward  the  rim,  thinking  and  soliloquizing,  as  we  looked  into 
the  blackened  depths.  Here  was  a  wonder  of  creation — the  greatest 
wonder  of  them  all!  Men  have  walked  the  earth  and  found  what  they 
believed  to  be  the  "Seven  Great  Wonders."  It  is  evident  that  these 
conclusions  were  made,  and  the  "wonders"  enumerated,  before  the  Grand 
Canyon  was  explored.  All  of  the  "seven  wonders"  are  in  the  old  world 
— hence  this  deduction  is  made,  for  at  the  head  of  any  list,  as  the  wonder 
of  wonders,  should  stand  the  Grand  Canyon  of  Arizona — incomprehen- 
sible and  unconquerable. 

We  are  told  by  historians  that  the  seven  wonders  of  the  world  are : 
the  Colossus  of  Rhodes;  Diana's  Temple  at  Ephesus;  the  Mausoleum 
of  Artemisia;  the  Pyramids  of  Egypt;  Pharos  of  Alexandria;  Walls 
and  Hanging  Gardens  of  Babylon;  and  the  Statue  of  the  Olympian 
Jupiter. 

The  Colussus  of  Rhodes  was  a  bronze  statue  of  Apollo,  or  the  sun- 
god,  about  105  feet  high,  which  was  felled  by  an  earthquake  in  224 
B.  C.  It  is  odious  to  compare  this  "first  wonder*  of  the  world,  with 
the  Grand  Canyon. 

The  Temple  of  Diana  at  Ephesus  is  worthy  of  mention  as  a  won- 
der. It  was  a  magnificent  structure  of  marble  425  feet  long  and  225 
feet  wide,  which  required  220  years  in  building.  The  chief  architect 
was  Chersipron,  but  the  building  was  burned  by  the  invading  Goths 
A.  D.  256.  The  Grand  Canyon,  217  miles  long  and  13  miles  wide,  was 
built  by  God  during  centuries,  with  Nature  as  the  architect.  It  was 
never  burned — never  will,  nor  can  be,  and  will  stand  as  an  everlasting 
monument  to  the  supremacy  of  its  builders. 


272        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

The  Mausoleum  of  Artemisia  was  the  tomb  of  Mausolus,  King  of 
Caria,  which  was  erected  by  his  widow  353  B.  C.  It  was  so  costly  and 
magnificent  that  expensive  tombs  have  since  been  known  as  "mauso- 
leums." However,  it  crumbled  into  decay  with  the  ages,  until  now  the 
former  site  has  even  been  forgotten.  In  all  its  rareness  of  beauty,  the 
tomb  of  Mausolus  could  not  have  attained  the  splendor  of  the  architec- 
tural forms,  which  rise  out  of  the  Grand  Canyon  as  monuments  to  the 
brave  men  who  died  in  its  depths,  and  these  tombs  will  live  forever, 
never  to  crumble  and  be  forgotten. 

The  Pyramids  of  Egypt  could  be  tossed  into  the  Grand  Canyon  and 
would  never  impede  the  flow  of  the  Colorado  River,  or  materially  change 
its  course.  The  Pharos  of  Alexandria  was  one  of  the  celebrated  towers 
of  antiquity,  and  served  as  a  lighthouse  from  the  time  of  its  erection, 
300  B.  C.  until  its  destruction  in  the  fourteenth  century.  There  is  evi- 
dence of  the  existence  of  a  light-bearing  tower  as  early  as  the  Trojan 
war,  and  while  the  erection  of  the  Pharos  of  Alexandria  was  a  marvel 
for  the  people  of  its  time,  as  a  world-wonder,  its  insignificance  in  com- 
parison to  the  Grand  Canyon  needs  no  explanation. 

The  Walls  and  Hanging  Gardens  of  Babylon,  built  by  Nebuchad- 
nezzar 560  B.  C.,  consisted  of  gardens  erected  upon  a  series  of  arches  in 
viaduct  style.  In  a  word,  it  was  the  first  roof  garden  the  world  ever 
knew,  and  a  remarkable  achievement  in  the  days  of  its  accomplishment; 
truly  a  wonder  of  the  ancient  world.  But  its  equal  and  superior  are 
being  daily  reproduced  by  the  hand  of  man.  The  original,  marvelous 
as  it  was,  was  conceived  and  constructed  by  a  handful  of  men.  The 
whole  universe,  working  as  a  unit  for  centuries,  could  not  conceive  and 
construct  a  Grand  Canyon,  such  as  that  in  Arizona.  The  Statue  of  the 
Olympian  Jupiter,  was,  like  every  one  of  the  "Seven  Wonders,"  con- 
ceived by  the  human  mind  and  constructed  by  man — marvelous  as  a 
piece  of  ingenuity  for  its  time,  but  capable,  not  only  of  reproduction  at 
this  time,  but  of  greater  improvement. 

In  comparison  to  the  Grand  Canyon  these  "Seven  Wonders"  pale 
into  insignificance.  It  is  the  one  great  wonder  of  the  world.  Its  scen- 
ery is  incomparable  in  either  hemisphere.  The  immensity  of  this  great 
chasm  is  a  revelation,  and  new  experience  to  those  who  have  trotted 
the  globe  over. 

In  the  great  and  romantic  Andes  range  of  South  America  there 
reposes  no  abyss  or  chasm  that  could  be  considered  with  the  titanic 
gash  which  the  Colorado  River  has  chiseled  through  the  tableland  of 
Arizona.  The  Grand  Canyon  of  the  Arkansas,  in  Colorado,  is  a  won- 
derful slit  in  the  mountain,  but  in  comparison,  is  but  a  button-hole. 
The  notches  in  the  White  Mountains  of  New  Hampshire  are  beautiful; 
the  Yellowstone  and  Yosemite  Canyons  receive  the  approbation  of  the 
world  for  their  particular  and  individual  splendors,  but  if  all  these  were 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        273 

inclosed  in  the  Grand  Canyon  of  Arizona,  the  observer  on  the  rim  could 
not  distinguish  them  from  the  hundreds  of  canyons  that  rib  the  verte- 
brae of  the  mighty  gorge,  6,000  to  7,000  feet  deep,  13  to  18  miles  wide, 
and  217  miles  long. 

If  Niagara  Falls  were  transplanted  and  dropped  into  the  canyon, 
it  would  probably  require  another  Major  Powell  to  find  it.  If  Mount 
Washington  were  hoisted  and  dropped  into  the  canyon,  it  could  not  be 
distinguished  because  of  its  contrast  to  the  brilliant,  radiating  and  many- 
colored  monuments  that  rise  out  of  the  canyon  depths.  This  great 
yawning  gap,  wonderfully  picturesque  as  it  is,  could  swallow  cities,  aye, 
a  nation.  There  is  but  one  standard  by  which  the  enormity  of  the  Grand 
Canyon  can  be  measured,  and  that  is  by  the  Grand  Canyon  itself.  Men 
rave  over  it ;  others  weep ;  many  become  frenzied  with  enthusiasm ;  none 
expect  it  as  they  find  it ;  every  visitor  is  surprised  beyond  measure ! 

Scientifically,  the  canyon  offers  impressiveness  from  the  fact  that 
it  is  not  an  indentation  in  a  mountain  range.  It  is  an  unparalleled 
chasm,  as  unexpected  and  as  geographically  unarranged  for,  as  a  gla- 
cier in  a  southern  city.  And  yet,  what  a  monster  is  this  cleft,  and  what 
a  mighty  sea  of  gigantic  wonders  nestle  in  its  bosom!  Throughout  its 
great  expanse,  which  can  only  be  measured  in  miles,  there  rise  hundreds 
of  peaks  taller  than  any  mountain  east  of  the  Rockies;  yet  not  one  of 
them  rise  to  the  rim. 

On  May  6,  1903,  during  his  memorable  visit  to  the  canyon,  Pres- 
ident Roosevelt  in  a  speech,  said:  "It  fills  me  with  awe;  it  is  beyond 
comparison,  beyond  description.  Keep  it  for  your  children,  your  child- 
ren's children,  and  all  who  come  after  you,  as  the  one  great  sight  which 
every  American  should  see."  Never  were  truer  words  spoken,  but 
Nature  herself  is  so  proud  of  this,  her  masterwork,  that  she  will  ever 
protect  it. 

As  we  took  our  farewell  look  at  the  canyon,  a  pale,  white  moon  was 
casting  its  searchlight  into  fathomless  depths.  A  shimmering  lake  of 
silvery  vapor  rolled  and  tossed  silently  between  the  widely  separated 
walls.  Subordinate  canyons  and  deep  crevices  were  half-hidden  by  the 
flood  of  lunar  radiance,  while  the  tops  of  the  mighty  temples  and  ar- 
chitectural forms  that  rose  so  defiantly  during  the  day,  glimmered  in 
the  night  like  spectral  forms.  No  voice  of  man,  beast,  or  bird,  resounded 
through  those  awful  corridors  of  silence.  We  felt  as  if  we  were  the 
sole  survivors  of  the  earth,  and  as  we  stood  alone  on  the  brink,  the 
melancholy  murmur  of  the  winds  played  a  doleful  requiem  for  a  vanished 
world.  Nature  slept — breathlessly,  silent;  perhaps  she  dreamt  of  the 
spirit  world,  as  she  lay  in  her  undefinable  beauty. 

A  night  so  pensive  and  soothing.    A  light  wave  of  chilled  air  came 
stealing  over  us  as  we  took  a  final  look  in  silence.     Impressions  were 
crowded  into  seconds;  thoughts  of  idealistic  things  occupied  every  mind; 
(18) 


274        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

in  solitude  we  worshipped  at  the  shrine  of  Nature  and  then,  with  a 
spirit  that  had  enthralled  us  during  our  brief  stay,  our  minds  reverted 
to  the  words  of  Milton : — 

"A  dark,  illimitable  vista,  without  bound, 
Without  dimension;  where  length,  breadth  and  heighth 
And  time,  and  place  are  lost!" 

We  turned  and  walked  away — the  world,  which  to  us,  had  stop- 
ped, began  to  move  once  more. 

El  Tovar  is  the  name  of  a  new  modern  125-room  hotel,  which  had 
just  been  completed  at  the  time  of  our  visit,  and  opened  the  following 
season.  It  is  a  rustic  building,  built  of  boulders  and  pine  logs,  on  a 
magnificent  scale.  The  new  hotel  is  a  Fred  Harvey  establishment,  and 
is  highly  modern  throughout. 

As  we  reached  our  "Special"  we  were  greeted  with  smiles  and  en- 
thusiasm by  our  colored  porters.  Although  setting  forth  grinning  coun- 
tenances, they  were  visibly  ill.  Then  they  told  the  tale.  These  same 
colored  men  who  had  endeavored  to  walk  through  Yellowstone  Park, 
believing  it  to  be  similar  to  Allegheny  Park,  had  also  made  an  effort  to 
walk  down  and  up  the  canyon  trail. 

"Wall,  jus  luk  o'dem  shoos!  I  ain't  got  no  futher  use  fo  dem 
shoos!"  exclaimed  one,  holding  aloft  a  pair  that  had  been  worn  out 
completely.  The  others  stood  about,  resting  one  foot  on  the  other,  and 
with  their  lower  limbs  apparently  anchored.  As  a  matter  of  fact,  they 
did  not  follow  the  established  trail  in  attempting  to  walk  the  seven 
miles  of  the  canyon.  They  endeavored  to  make  their  own  trail  any- 
where, but  came  back  wiser,  but  much  worn  men.  Later  we  observed 
a  most  impressive  tableau  in  the  "smoker."  Here  were  the  same  three 
porters,  all  asleep;  one  standing,  with  a  shoe  encased  in  one  hand  and 
brush  in  the  other,  (a  shining  light).  The  other  two  seated,  side  by 
side;  one  held  his  arm  way  up  with  whisk  broom  in  his  hand,  and  the 
other  had  his  hand  extended  with  the  palm  up,  waiting  for  a  dividend 
to  be  declared.  It  was  not  a  closed  corporation,  for  they  all  slept  with 
their  mouths  open,  so  that  we  could  read  their  innermost  thoughts. 

Fortunately  all  returned  in  good  spirits  and  physique.  As  a  matter 
of  fact  we  had  provided  for  any  emergency.  For  fear  that  some  mem- 
ber of  the  party  might  carelessly  step  off  a  precipice  and  drop  into  an 
abyss,  in  a  foolish  effort  to  save  time,  we  insisted  that  Sir  Aeberli  (who 
is  a  funeral  director)  join  the  party.  After  inviting  him,  it  occurred 
to  Sir  Shook  what  an  awful  predicament  we  would  be  in,  if  the  funeral 
director  should  happen  to  lose  his  balance  and  strike  the  bottom.  Then 
came  a  happy  thought.  We  would  take  two  funeral  directors.  And 
Sir  Lowrie  was  invited.  At  first  he  was  not  anxious  to  go,  but  we  told 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        275 

him  "we  were  dying  to  have  him  come"  and  that  competition  was  al- 
ready on  the  ground. 

We  started  on  our  return  tour  to  Williams,  and  by  midnight  the 
tired  pilgrims  were  all  asleep. 


The  reader  will  pardon  this  letter  on  the  Grand  Canyon.  Several  times  have  I  written 
it  to  the  end;  several  times  have  I  torn  up  the  manuscript,  fearing  lest  my  friends  should 
say  that  I  had  gone  mad  on  a  sudden.  It  might  appear  that  I  have  exaggerated ;  should 
such  be  the  case,  my  pen  is  not  at  fault.  Seated  here,  my  mind  wanders  and  the  spirit 
roams  back  to  that  gorgeous  marvel  of  nature  in  far-off  Arizona,  and  I  see  it  as  I  saw  it 
then.  My  eye  kindles  with  the  majestic  beauty  of  those  eternal  battlements,  and  I  tremble  with 
awe  and  wonder;  while  my  heart  throbs  and  thrills  in  the  midst  of  nature's  eloquent,  golden 
silence.  Verily,  I  have  never  stood  so  close  to  my  Creator,  and  every  fibre  of  my  body  appreci- 
ated His  might,  His  glory,  His  majesty.  Hence  I  suppose  I  shall  come  to  my  disappoint- 
ment as  have  my  predecessors ;  all  of  whom  have  failed  in  their  efforts  to  justly  describe  this 
indescribable  wonder.  All  have  failed  —  but  go  forth  and  let  your  eyes  illustrate  this  mir- 
acle to  you.  It  is  worth  while  traveling  the  world  over  to  view  this  mighty  chasm,  and  once 
you  have  seen  the  Almighty's  Great  Creation,  you  will  bless  the  day  that  you  have  taken  ad- 
vanced steps  to  a  larger  and  more  comprehensive  idea  of  His  work. 


CHAPTER  XXX. 

HE  music  of  a  donkey  awoke  us  in  the  morning  (Sunday,  Sept. 

18).     Our  train  had  long  been  at  a  standstill  at  Williams  station. 
Sir  Bovard  had  been  so  deeply  impressed  with  the  sunrise 

of  the  previous  morning  that  he  had  lain  careful  plans  to  be 
awakened  early.  He  engaged  Sir  Gilchrist,  Nature's  own  "alarm  clock," 
to  awaken  him  sufficiently  early  to  "see  the  sun  rise"  and  offered  him 
passes  for  two  to  the  Chinese  Theatre,  (which  he  had  failed  to  use  while 
in  San  Francisco)  as  recompense.  This  was  considered  a  brilliant  idea 
on  the  part  of  Sir  Bovard,  while  no  service,  whether  serious  or  pleasant, 
was  too  much  for  "Joe."  As  a  matter  of  fact  the  "Alarm  Clock"  had 
never  been  out  of  order,  and  our  early  awakenings  had  been  very  per- 
sistent. 

However,  for  some  unknown  and  unexplainable  cause,  and  which 
remains  a  mystery  to  date,  "Joe"  himself  did  not  arise  until  9  o'clock 
that  morning.  All  the  rest  of  the  "stag"  coach  constituents  were  "up 
and  doing;"  the  only  two  berths  not  made  up  were  "the  upper  ten  and 
the  lower  five."  Presently  "Joe"  jumped  out,  hastening  his  dress,  and 
without  awaiting  breakfast,  called  a  council  of  the  diplomats.  He  tear- 
fully told  of  his  contract  with  Sir  Bovard  made  the  night  previous,  how 
he  had  neglected  his  duty,  and  that  his  employer  was  still  sleeping  in 
delightful  innocence.  Sir  Pears  suggested  that  everyone  turn  back  their 
watches.  Sir  Benkart  advised  that  "Bobbie  be  kept  asleep  until  sunrise 


276        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

the  next  day,  and  believed  that  he  would  never  miss  the  day." 
Hanley  thought  it  would  be  well  to  burn  red  fire  outside  the  window  of 
his  berth  while  he  was  being  awakened.  Other  equally  commendable 
suggestions  were  made  to  save  the  reputation  of  the  "Alarm  Clock." 

However,  Hanley's  suggestion  was  at  once  put  into  effect. 
"  Now  hurry  boys  and  get  off  the  car,  but  all  look  heavenward  and 
pretend  to  view  the  sunrise  while  I  hastily  summon  Sir  Bovard,"  said 
"Joe." 

Sir  Robert,  springing  from  his  "shelf  on  the  wall,"  did  not  waste 
time  in  an  effort  to  dress,  but  merely  threw  a  blanket  over  himself  and 
trotted  out  like  a  follower  of  the  Kneipp  cure.  As  he  gained  the  out- 
side he  was  confronted  with  a  solemn  and  silent  audience  gazing  pious- 
ly heavenward,  and  apparently  enwrapped  in  viewing  the  sun. 

Presently  Sir  Bovard  turned  about  and  exclaimed:  "Why  that's 
no  sunrise!  Its  way  up  and  ready  to  come  down!  In  the  meanwhile 
there  began  a  system  of  complicated  and  extraordinary  smiling,  which 
had  been  withheld  as  long  as  possible.  "Look  here,  the  sun  isn't  the 
spectacle!  It's  me,  out  here  in  this  idiotic  fashion!  These  boys  and 
girls  are  not  caring  a  straw  about  the  sunrise,  they  have  been  watching 
me  rise.  As  long  as  they  have  a  spectacle  as  ridiculous  as  this  they 
need  no  further  entertainment.  Look  at  Oscar  laughing  a  rib  loose, 
and  there's  a  girl  that  seems  to  be  going  all  to  pieces.  'Joe'  I  never 
met  such  a  man  as  you!" 

"What  have  I  done?"  asked  "Joe." 

"What  have  you  done?  You  woke  me  at  half  past  nine  to  see  the 
sunrise,  and  then  ask  such  a  question." 

"Joe"  then  explained  that  it  really  was  sunrise.  "You  see,"  he  said, 
"we  are  not  much  lower  than  we  were  at  the  Canyon  rim,  naturally  we 
are  further  away,  and  the  sun  seems  high  in  the  sky.  If  we  were  on 
a  mountain  it  would  only  be  sunrise,  and  fortunately  I  have  been  carry- 
ing a  mountain  time."  The  strong  men  almost  fainted  at  this  point,  and 
the  incident  closed. 

Our  "Special"  was  compelled  to  lay  over  a  short  time,  in  order  not 
to  conflict  with  other  schedules,  and  we  took  the  opportunity  to  make 
a  short  tour  of  inspection.  Williams,  which  is  378  miles  west  of  Al- 
buquerque, has  a  population  of  1,500.  Bill  Williams  Mountain  rises  to 
a  height  of  9,000  feet  near  the  town;  on  the  summit  is  buried  the 
pioneer  scout  after  whom  the  mountain  is  named.  "Chimney  Rock" 
and  its  eagle  nests  is  a  notable  landmark  on  the  mountain. 

Returning  to  the  station  we  were  confidentially  informed  that  a 
bridal  couple  were  within.  It  did  not  take  much  formality  for  our  party 
to  become  acquainted  with  the  happy  pair.  They  were  bound  on  a 
honeymoon  trip  to  the  World's  Fair  and  as  the  groom  was  an  employee 
of  the  Santa  Fe  railroad!,  we  insisted  that  they  accompany  us.  They  con- 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        277 

sented  to  do  so.  In  a  few  moments  we  steamed  away  with  Albuquerque 
as  our  destination  and  the  "Santa  Fe  all  the  way." 

Whirling  across  the  alkali  sand  wastes  of  Arizona,  we  saw  here  and 
there  vast  herds  of  sheep  and  wondered  how  they  secured  sustenance. 
But  the  timid  creatures  looked  sleek  and  fat  as  they  huddled  together 
under  the  charge  of  the  dark-skinned  Mexican  shepherds. 

Here  the  region  abounds  in  ruins  of  dwellings  of  a  prehistoric 
people,  Cliff-dwellers.  In  Walnut  Canyon  which  breaks  the  plateau  for 
several  miles,  are  recesses,  floored  and  roofed  and  walled  up  on  the 
front  and  sides  with  rock  fragments,  and1  cemented  into  compartments 
Nearly  all  have  fallen  into  crumbling  decay,  though  some  are  almost 
wholly  intact.  Fixed  like  swallows'  nests  upon  the  face  of  the  precipice 
they  are  only  approachable  by  arduous  climbing,  and  appear  to  have  been 
retreats  rather  than  dwellings,  That  there  was  a  time  when  warlike 
people  trod  the  now  peaceful  plateau  is  generally  admitted.  These 
Cliff-dwellings,  between  the  earth  and  sky,  are  taken  to  indicate  that 
their  inhabitants  of  centuries  ago  were  a  weak  and  small  tribe,  driven 
to  unassailable  retreats  by  descending  hordes  of  superior  members, 
energy  and  skill. 

Then  onward  to  Flagstaff,  familiar  to  readers  of  old  army  stories 
of  Apache  days,  and  on  to  the  vast  forests  of  the  San  Francisco  range. 
The  new  short-cut  to  the  Grand  Canyon,  over  the  line  recently  built  from 
Williams,  has  robbed!  Flagstaff  of  the  distinction  of  being  the  gateway 
to  The  Greatest  Wonder  in  the  World.  However,  it  affords  access  to 
delightful  and  remarkable  ancient  ruins,  and  to  one  of  our  great  moun- 
tains. The  magnificent  San  Francisco  Peaks  lie  north  of  Flagstaff, 
and  the  three  peaks  form  one  mountain.  Humphrey  Peak,  whose  sum- 
mit is  12,750  feet  above  sea  level,  is  reached  by  a  special  roadway  from 
Flagstaff.  The  town  itself  is  surrounded  by  dense  forests  of  pines, 
which  lend  beauty  to  the  eye  and  invigorate  one  with  their  aroma. 

San  Francisco  Peaks  which  rise  13,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea,  are  but  6,000  feet  above  Flagstaff,  as  that  town  is  in  itself  highly 
elevated.  Humphrey's  Peak,  which  is  easier  accessible  than  the  others, 
offers  the  noblest  of  mountain  views.  It  commands  a  recognizable  ter- 
ritory of  75,000  square  miles,  with  vague,  shadowy  contours  beyond  the 
circle  of  definite  vision.  To  the  north,  the  farther  wall  of  the  Grand 
Canyon  at  Bright  Angel  Amphitheatre,  50  miles  away,  can  be  seen; 
forty  miles  beyond  the  Buckskin  Mountains  rise  against  the  horizon; 
to  the  right,  the  Navajo  Mountains,  near  the  Colorado  state  lines  and 
200  miles  away,  can  readily  be  discerned.  In  the  southeast  the  White 
Mountains,  more  than  200  miles  away,  are  clearly  seen,  while  within  a 
full  and  equal  radius,  interesting  and  famous  landmarks  of  all  sorts  are 
within  the  grasp  of  the  eye. 

Our  next  stop  was  Canyon  Diablo,  32  miles  east  of  Flagstaff,  and  a 


278        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

station  named  after  an  interesting  and  important  canyon.  It  is  a  gash 
in  the  plateau  225  feet  deep,  550  feet  wide,  and  many  miles  long,  while 
a  narrow  stream  wends  its  way  along  the  bottom.  Just  before  reaching 
the  station,  the  train  passed  over  the  canyon  on  a  spider-like  bridge,  600 
feet  long.  Several  miles  southeast  is  located  Meteorite  Mountain,  where 
an  immense  sky-wanderer  is  said  to  have  fallen.  Large  fragments  of 
meteoric  stone  have  been  found  nearby. 

What  numberless  centuries  of  human  history,  of  life  and  love,  of 
hope  and  despair,  of  endeavor  and  achievement,  are  covered  by  one 
glance  of  the  eye,  from  the  sight  of  the  light,  airy  frail-looking  steel 
bridge,  by  which  the  Santa  Fe  railroad  leaps  the  deep,  dark  chasm  of  the 
Canyon  Diablo,  to  the  rude  ruins  of  the  Cliff-dweller's  castle  (geo- 
graphically nearby).  The  one  fairly  stands  for  the  new  civilization  of  the 
country,  the  other  probably  as  fairly  for  a  civilization  whose  history  has 
vanished  in  the  midst  of  centuries,  never  to  be  recovered,  or  recovered 
only  in  doubtful  fragments  painfully  patched  together  by  the  preserving 
archeologist. 

East  and  north  of  Canyon  Diablo  is  the  Moki  Indian  reservation, 
which  has  seven  villages,  or  pueblos,  known  as  Oraibi,  Shungopavi, 
Shipaulovi,  Mishonginovi,  Wolpi,  Sichomovi  and  Tewa.  In  this  reser- 
vation, which  is  about  30  miles  wide,  are  gathered  the  members  of  the 
Moki  or  Hopi  tribe.  Moki  is  a  nickname  and  is  said  to  signify  "dead." 
On  the  other  hand  Hopi,  the  true  name,  indicates  "good  people"  or 
"peaceful  people." 

The  Hopi  Indians  do  not  restrict  themselves  closely  within  the 
confines  of  their  reservation,  and  are  seen  and  met  all  along  the  route 
in  this  vicinity,  gathered  at  railroad  stations,  and!  engaged  in  various 
pursuits.  They  are  cleanly  and  uncleanly,  no  compromise.  It  is  either 
one  extreme  or  the  other.  As  a  whole  the  tribe  is  industrious,  thrifty, 
orderly  and  cheerful.  A  succession  of  ceremonies,  each  terminating 
in  "dances,"  are  in  progress  almost  the  entire  year,  and  all  these  spec- 
tacles, which  are  of  high  interest  to  students  of  pagan  life,  are  entirely 
free  and  public. 

As  almost  the  whole  source  of  occupation  is  agriculture  in  an  arid 
region  of  uncertain  crops,  they  find  considerable  time  for  dance  and 
song  and  elaborate  ceremonials,  which  are  grotesque  in  the  masked 
dances,  poetic  in  the  flute  dances  and  excitingly  dramatic  in  the  snake 
d!ances.  In  the  latter  ceremony  which  is  grim  and  startling,  reptiles  are 
used  as  messengers  to  carry  petition  to  the  gods  of  the  underworld,  who 
are  supposed  to  control  the  rain  cloud.  It  seems  impossible  to  the  on- 
looker that  venomous  snakes  can  be  handled  so  audaciously  without  in- 
flicting deadly  wounds,  but  the  Hopi  snake  priests  have  a  knowledge  of 
reptile  ways  and  avoid  injury  by  their  dexterity;  they  are  also  said  to 
possess  a  secret  antidote  which  they  apply  when  bitten.  There  are  very 


THE    CAMERA 


"  San/a  Ft'  J 

THE    SOUTHWEST. 


I—  The  Canon  Diablo.  2—  Cliff  Dwellings,  Hieroglyphs  on  the  rocks  and  Cliff  Dwellers  Skull.  3—  Petrified  Trees  in  Petrified  Forests, 
Arizona.  4  —  Abode  Mansion,  Old  Albuquerque,  N.  M.  5  —  Church  of  San  Felipe,  Old  Albuquerque.  6  —  Maria.  7—  Mexican  Bull 
Fighters  8  —  Mexican  Water  Carriers.  9  —  Bernadillo  County  Court  House,  Albuquerque.  10  —  Acequia  or  Irrigation  Ditch,  Albuquer- 
que. ii  —  Street  Scene,  Old  Albuquerque.  12—  City  Hall.  13—  Bull  Fight.  14—  '•  Deme  un  Centavo.  "  15—  Aguador. 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        279 

few  and  rare  cases  where  serious  consequences  have  followed  the  hand- 
ling of  snakes  capable  of  inflicting  deadly  wounds,  yet  it  is  positively 
known  that  the  snakes  are  in  nowise  deprived  of  their  power  to  do  so. 

Hopi  girls  are  shy  and  modest,  and  have  distinct  claims  on  beauty, 
although  they  are  rather  large  featured.  The  favorite  fad!  among  Hopi 
maids,  consists  of  dressing  their  lustrous  dark  hair  into  two  great 
whorls,  one  on  either  side  of  the  head.  These  are  intended  to  be  symbolic 
of  the  squash  bloom — the  emblem  of  the  virgin.  This  fashion  is  aban- 
doned after  marriage.  The  women  know  none  of  the  worries  of  chang- 
ing styles,  and  abide  by  the  texture  and  design  of  the  garments  worn 
by  their  ancestors.  Hopi  men  and  women  excel  in  basketry  and  are 
excellent  pottery-makers.  Much  weaving  is  also  done,  but  agriculture 
remains  the  chief  pursuit. 

At  Winslow  we  had  opportunity  to  inspect  and  criticize  the  fearful 
and  wonderful  costumes  of  the  Indians  mingled  among  us  on  the  station 
platform.  As  usual,  they  had  trinkets  and  novelties  for  sale.  We  had 
been  offered  so  many  Indian  novelties  on  our  tour  that  novelties  had 
ceased  to  be  novelties. 

The  Painted  Desert  and  Moki  Buttes  are  north  of  Winslow,  while 
the  Mogollon  Mountains  lie  south.  In  the  early  days  the  Continental 
stage  route  and  the  old  Santa  Fe  Trail  passed1  through  Winslow,  mak- 
ing it  an  important  junction. 

As  Winslow  is  a  "Harvey  Eating  House"  point,  we  took  the  op- 
portunity to  secure  a  satisfying  luncheon,  which  terminated  in  an  ice 
cream  debauch.  The  commodity  which  is  so  plentiful  at  home  that  it  is 
not  given  consideration,  is  idolized  on  the  desert,  because  of  its  scarcity, 
and  we  looked  upon  it  with  reverence  and  respect.  As  a  result,  we  were 
easily  lead  into  temptation  and  dissipation,  and  we  consumed  sufficient 
to  test  the  full  capacity  of  the  freezing  apparatus. 

Thirty-three  miles  eastward  we  arrived  at  Holbrook,  where  a  short 
stop  was  made.  Fort  Apache  and  several  Indian  Villages  and  Mor- 
mon settlements  lie  south  of  the  town.  Twenty  miles  further  is  Ad- 
amana,  whose  chief  fame  lies  in  the  fact  that  it  is  the  main  gateway  to 
the  Petrified  Forests,  which  lie  to  the  south. 

These  marvels  of  geology  (for  the  forests  are  three  in  number)  are 
thought  to  have  been  made  possible  by  the  emersion  of  a  forest  by  the 
sea;  then  its  burial  under  sand;  then  its  encasement  under  rock  forma- 
tion, and  finally  the  removal  of  the  incasement  of  rock  and  mountain, 
by  the  slow  process  of  erosion. 

Thousand's  of  acres  are  thickly  strewn  with  branches,  trunks,  and 
limbs,  covered  with  chiplike  fragments.  Some  of  these  fragments  would 
adorn  a  collector's  cabinet,  or  embellish  the  crown,  if  polished  by  the 
lapidary.  Some  of  the  petrified  and  prostrate  trees  are  200  feet  in 
length,  and  seven  or  eight  feet  in  diameter,  though  most  of  them  are 


280        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

broken  into  sections.  The  three  separate  tracts  of  fallen  forest  astonish 
the  beholder  with  an  inexhaustible  store  of  gems,  weighing  thousands 
of  tons.  A  profusion  of  hardened  splinters,  limbs  and  logs  lie  about 
in  countless  numbers :  In  one  instance,  a  huge  trunk  spans  a  canyon  50 
feet  wide — a  bridge  of  jasper  and  agate  overhanging  a  tree-fringed 
pool. 

The  first  forest,  six  miles  from  Adamana,  is  the  most  popularly  vis- 
ited, and  contains  the  natural  log  bridge.  The  second  forest  which  is 
three  miles  south  of  the  first,  is  smaller,  though  it  contains  many  rare 
specimens  of  petrified  wood.  The  third  tract  lies  13  miles  south  of 
Adamana,  and  is  the  largest  of  the  three.  Its  trees  and  tree  trunks  are 
of  unusual  size,  though  the  chief  characteristics  are  the  same  as  those 
of  the  other  two.  These  tracts  of  hardened  vegetation  inscribe  the  ex- 
istence of  time,  as  far  back  as  the  Bible  record^;  the  evidence  that  trees 
grew  in  Arizona  thousands  of  years  ago  cannot  be  disputed ;  what  they 
know  of  the  events  transpiring  since  their  formation  and  growth  will 
never  be  told. 

As  we  hastened  to  the  border  line  separating  Arizona  and  New 
Mexico  we  were  impressed  with  the  gigantic  mountain  terraces,  plateaus, 
canyons,  arid  plains,  deserts  and  bleak  mountain  spires,  which  had 
marked  our  pathway  across  Arizona.  There  is  a  charm  even  m  the 
desolation  of  Arizona.  Its  frequent  wide  stretches  of  rugged  horizon 
offer  a  fascination  equal  to  that  of  the  mountain  and  the  forest.  The 
same  air  of  mystery  pervades  the  desert  as  the  canyon — the  same  thrall 
seizes  the  onlooker. 

The  cliffs  of  Arizona  are  flung  in  broad,  sinuous  lines  that  shape 
themselves  into  caverns,  corridors,  pyramids,  spires,  and  hundreds  of 
other  forms  and  shapes  that  stand  as  the  unfinished  work  of  some  mas- 
ter architect,  who  planned  more  than  he  could  execute.  Ranging  from 
an  altitude  between  5,000  to  7,000  feet  in  the  eastern  section,  the  high 
plateaus  break  toward  the  west  until  they  attain  an  elevation  of  but  500 
feet  in  the  Colorado  River  Valley. 

Mark  of  Nice,  the  discoverer  of  what  is  now  New  Mexico  is  also 
credited  with  the  discovery  of  Arizona.  The  Apache  Indian  was  the 
first  monarch  of  this  domain  known  to  civilization.  For  years  he  fought 
the  Spaniard  with  considerable  success.  It  was  acquired  by  the  United 
States  in  1853,  and  after  being  devastated  in  the  early  days  of  the  Civil 
War,  was  reoccupied  by  California  troops  in  1862,  and  not  until  1882 
did  the  first  railroad  span  its  boundaries. 

Today,  the  once  blood-thirsty  Apache  has  been  corralled  on  the 
reservations  and  is  being  rapidly  educated  by  that  master  instructor — 
Uncle  Sam.  But  Arizona  is  destined  to  never  lose  its  fascinating  air 
of  mystery  and  antiquity.  Besides  its  monster  chasms  and  cliffs,  which 
stand  unchanged  by  time,  it  contains  within  its  borders  ruins  of  once 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        281 

populous  cities  maintained  by  irrigation  systems,  which  our  modern 
science  can  scarcely  duplicate.  These  indisputable  evidences  bespeak 
of  a  people  who  lived  and  died  unheralded  and  unsung;  unhonored  and 
unknown. 

The  rocks  themselves  bear  the  delicate  but  definite  hieroglyphic  writ- 
ings that  tell  of  some  tragedy  or  romance  of  historical  love — or  perhaps 
of  successful  warfare  or  honorable  defeat — but  be  it  what  it  may,  it 
tells  in  truth,  for  evermore,  that  another  race  had  lived  and  learned 
where  we  today  seek  life  and  education. 

Nor  do  these  hieroglyphics  indicate  a  low  degree  of  culture — for 
the  delicate  but  definite  lines  clearly  show  that  they  had  been  made  a 
thousand  times.  Was  the  culture  capable  of  inscribing  ideas  common 
to  this  lost  race?  Surely  it  must  have  been!  For  if  only  few  could 
read,  the  time  and  energy  would  never  have  been  spent  to  inscribe 
thought  upon  stone.  The  fragments  of  pottery  and  other  evidences 
found  among  the  ruined  cities  of  Arizona  indicate  that  the  cliff-dwel- 
lers and  the  settlers  of  centuries  ago,  have  been  a  race  of  skill  as  -veil 
as  culture,  which  was  noble  in  its  refinement. 

Spanish  civilization  never  took  healthy  root  in  Arizona  and  New 
Mexico.  It  was  earnest,  but  it  failed.  Evidence  remains  that  it  pur- 
sued a  course  of  "benevolent  assimilation"  that  offers  no  historical  en- 
couragement, and  that  degeneration  was  the  only  lesson  it  taught.  How- 
ever, this  ancient  but  new  southwestern  sunland,  is  building  high  upon 
the  ruins  of  the  lost  and  unknown,  and  the  twentieth  century  civilization 
is  lifting  it  higher  and  higher. 

Soon  we  were  in  New  Mexico,  the  land  of  the  adobe,  desert,  and 
dust;  the  land  of  the  vast  rancho,  the  Mexican,  the  Indian,  and  the 
Spaniard.  All  is  quaint,  peculiar  and  ancient  to  the  dweller  of  the  east. 
Great  plains  stretch  out  and  are  as  level  as  a  table,  except  where  broken 
by  a  mountain  range  or  canyon. 

Telephone  and  telegraph  wires  strung  across  the  dreary  desert 
wastes  tell  of  the  accomplishment  of  industry  and  enterprise  over  na- 
ture. Here  and  there  a  green  spot  marks  a  tiny  oasis,  but  the  greater 
portion  of  the  western  section  of  New  Mexico  is  still  waste  land.  Scat- 
tered by  the  way  are  a  few  sleepy  Mexican  villages  and  Indian  pueblos, 
and  the  peculiar  atmosphere  of  old  Spain  prevails. 

Gallup,  a  coal-mining  town,  lies  on  the  border  line  between  Arizona 
and  New  Mexico,  though  considered  as  being  in  the  latter  place.  Crude 
oil,  pottery  and  brick  clay  are  found  in  liberal  quantities  in  the  imme- 
diate neighborhood.  Gallup  has  a  population  of  3,000.  Thirty  Indian 
trading  stores  on  the  reservation  in  northwestern  New  Mexico  secure 
supplies  from  Gallup  merchants,  or  receive  shipments  through  that  point. 

As  evening  came  on  the  "stag"  coach  constituents  decided  to  sere- 
nade the  bridal  couple  who  joined  us  at  Williams.  Headed  by  our  own 


282        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

band,  whose  instruments  of  torture  would  have  driven  the  Indian  war- 
riors to  blush,  we  marched  to  the  commissary  car  escorting  the  bride  and 
groom. 

It  was  here  that  the  musical  (  ?)  organization  inflicted  a  serenade 
that  filled  the  early  hours  of  married  life  with  torture  and  discourage- 
ment. Seated  on  the  top  of  a  trunk,  the  honored  guests  received  the 
visitors.  The  serenaders  took  it  upon  themselves  to  sing  after  their  tin 
pans  and  other  instruments  had  been  hushed.  It  was  generally  conceded 
that  the  newly  wedded  couple  would  be  able  to  meet  all  misfortunes 
that  might  come  with  married  life,  because  of  their  courage  in  enduring 
the  ordeal  furnished  by  the  band. 

At  the  conclusion  of  the  bombardment  by  the  musicians  and  vocal- 
ists, two  addresses  were  delivered — one  to  the  groom,  the  other  to  the 
bride.  Sir  Greenwalt,  who  gave  advice  and  words  of  encouragement 
to  the  groom,  said  in  part : 

"The  ace  always  did  beat  the  deuce,  and  this  was  never  truer  than 
when  two  hearts  are  succeeded  by  one.  There  is  no  way  in  which  man 
can  show  greater  regard  for  woman  than  by  agreeing  to  submit  to  her 
cooking  for  an  unlimited  period  of  time.  You  have  gotten  yourself 
into  a  position  where  you  cannot  do  much  but  remain  and  take  your  medi- 
cine, and  if  you  have  a  powerful  constitution  you  may  survive.  Brave 
and  strong  men  have  been  known  to  live  for  years,  and  heroically  pose 
as  the  medium  by  which  their  wives  mastered  the  art  of  cooking  and 
meanwhile  paid  all  expenses.  So  do  not  become  discouraged  at  the  out- 
set— maybe  a  biscuit  will  come  along  and  take  the  weight  off  your  mind 
and  place  it  on  your  stomach. 

"Never  emphasize  a  remark  to  your  wife  by  using  crockery  as  air- 
ships. Cups  and  saucers  hurled  through  the  air  have  been  known  to 
break  the  harmony  of  a  home  as  well  as  the  dishes.  Let  your  married 
life  be  as  quiet  and  peaceful  as  the  brooklet,  and  always  talk  in  whispers 
— the  rising  voice  can  be  carried  to  extremes.  You  may  have  a  won- 
derful command  of  barbarian  vocabularies  when  irritable,  but  you  must 
consider  that  this  may  be  unintelligible  to  your  wife. 

"Don't  cherish  the  belief  that  a  man  makes  a  mistake  by  marrying 
the  woman  of  his  choice — sometimes  the  woman  errs  in  making  her 
selection.  Woman  wields  a  powerful  influence — and  some  times  a  flat- 
iron  or  a  broom.  They  have  great  strength  of  purpose,  as  well  as  being 
strong  in  the  wrists. 

"Do  not  frown  on  the  costume  worn  by  your  wife  and  admire  the 
same,  or  a  worse  creation,  on  another  woman.  This  has  been  known 
to  unloosen  the  bonds  and  ties  of  matrimony.  One  who  has  never  de- 
serted his  wife,  at  her  earnest  request,  cannot  realize  the  full  pain  of 
anguish  it  costs.  Never  tell  your  wife  about  the  things  'mother  used 
to  make.'  Woman  have  great  respect  for  style  and  she  might  tell  you 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        283 

in  reply,  that  'they  are  not  wearing  powdered  sugar  on  apple  dumplings 
this  year.' 

"Very  few  men  have  had  the  opportunity  for  observation  in  a  mat- 
rimonial way,  as  Johnston — he  gave  me  all  these  points.  The  average 
man  judges  all  the  wives  in  Christendom  by  his  own,  but  Johnston  has 
made  matrimony  a  study.  It  has  been  a  life-work  with  him  He  has 
studied  all  its  phases,  and  has  become  an  authority;  so  I  say  to  you 
that  woman,  either  by  strategy  and  winning  manner,  or  by  main 
strength  and  perseverance,  is  absolutely  sure  to  wield  a  powerful  in- 
fluence over  poor,  weak  man;  and  as  long  as  the  grass  grows,  and  the 
waters  flow  (ain't  that  so,  Johnston?)  you  will  find  her  presiding  over 
man's  destinies  and  his  ducats.  Still  Uncle  Sam  is  right  when  he 
declares  "united  we  stand — divided  we  fall." 

"Woman  is  like  the  glad  landscape  to  the  weary  eye.  Individual- 
ly and  collectively  she  is  a  great  adjunct  to  civilization  and  progress. 
The  electric  light  is  a  good  thing — but  how  pale  and  feeble  is  its  bril- 
liancy in  comparison  to  the  eye  of  a  good  woman.  The  phonograph 
and  telephone  are  marvels  of  invention — but  the  first  needs  winding,  and 
the  second  prompting  in  order  to  talk.  Not  so  with  a  woman.  The 
phonograph  and  telephone  are  good  things  into  which  to  talk  and  de- 
posit profanity,  but  they  cannot  take  up  a  conversation,  continue  it 
persistently  and  follow  a  man  out  of  the  front  door  with  it.  The  pho- 
nograph has  much  to  learn  from  woman." 

The  groom  seemed  deeply  affected  by  the  wise  words  offered  by 
Sir  Greenawalt,  and  after  the  band  had  disturbed  the  peace  for  a  few 
moments  Sir  Watson  arose  to  deliver  "the  charge"  to  the  bride,  and  leave 
the  case  with  the  jury.  He  said  in  part: 

"Remember  that  marriage  does  not  always  pay  cash  dividends — you 
have  made  a  mistake  if  you  have  married  as  a  financial  venture.  Do 
not  marry  for  revenue  only,  but  for  protection.  If  your  husband  saves 
$5  a  week,  do  not  invest  $4  of  it  in  a  pair  of  white  slippers  and  the 
other  dollar  as  a  weekly  installment  on  a  raincoat.  Sometimes  two 
people  do  well  in  business  by  themselves,  but  when  they  form  a  partner- 
ship both  become  insolvent.  Yet  a  team  can  always  do  better  uphill 
work  if  they  pull  work.  You  must  not  be  a  dormant  partner  during 
the  day,  and  go  through  your  husband's  pockets  at  night  and  declare 
a  dividend  on  your  own  stock.  Few  women  are  silent  partners — try 
the  exception  and  see  how  it  works.  Novelties  always  take. 

"You  may  have  had  more  pocket  money  before  you  married  than 
you  will  have  hereafter.  You  may  have  worn  better  clothes  when  you 
were  single,  but  remember  how  it  affects  your  husband — perhaps  he 
had  more  money  and  wore  better  clothes  before  he  married.  There  are 
always  two  sides  to  a  wedding.  Don't  hesitate  to  press  your  husband's 
clothes— remember  he  pressed  his  suit  before  he  won  you. 


284        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

So  this  is  your  honeymoon — the  first  month  of  married  life  is  always 
considered  so.  Those  who  have  been  married  longer  say  the  moon  is 
made  of  green  cheese.  Learn  to  take  the  honey  with  cheese  and  the 
bitter  with  the  sweet.  You  can  get  greater  concessions  from  your  hus- 
band while  he  is  still  temporarily  knocked  silly  by  the  pomp  and  enthu- 
siasm of  the  marriage  ceremony.  Do  not  aggravate  him  when  he  comes 
home  late  at  night  and  is  too  tired  to  walk  straight — greet  him  with 
a  smile  and  help  him  upstairs.  If  you  pay  attention  to  the  smile  racket 
he  may  cut  out  the  "smile"  down  street. 

"Of  course  it  is  a  serious  responsibility  to  give  advice  in  a  case  such 
as  this,  but,  if  I  could  change  the  social  fabric,  in  some  cases,  I  should' 
ask  woman  to  be  more  thoughtful  of  her  husband.  If  possible  be  less' 
severe  and  critical.  I  would  say  to  woman:  'Be  a  man.'  Instead  of 
asking  him  for  a  careful  account  of  every  cent  he  spends,  learn  to  trust 
him.  Let  him  know  you  have  as  much  confidence  in  his  financial  ability 
as  you  have  in  him  to  earn  your  support.  Make  him  believe  you  have 
this  confidence  anyway,  whether  you  have  or  not.  Love  and  respect  him, 
and  if  you  find  married  life  a  failure  join  some  women's  club." 

Wild  enthusiasm  followed  the  closing  of  these  words  of  advice  by 
the  two  speakers — in  fact  the  enthusiasm  was  so  pronounced  that  it  woke 
the  groom,  who  had  fallen  asleep  while  in  serious  meditation.  The  band 
then  continued  with  its  torture,  in  what  they  termed  "two  selections," 
after  which  refreshments  were  served,  and  very  appropriately  so,  because 
everyone  felt  as  if  they  wanted  to  be  refreshed. 

The  Zuni  Indian  reservation  is  the  first  of  the  larger  pueblos  reached 
in  New  Mexico,  coming  from  the  west;  lying  as  it  does  in  the  central 
western  section,  35  miles  south  of  Zuni  station,  on  the  Santa  Fe  railroad. 
The  tribe  numbers  about  1,000  and  has  always  been  imperious.  Their 
language  differs  entirely  from  that  of  the  other  Indian  tribes  in  the 
southwest.  Their  history,  prior  to  Spanish  occupation,  indicates  that 
they  were,  at  that  time,  the  dominating  pueblo,  Their  ceremonial  dances 
are  of  world  renown,  and  their  pottery  is  considered  artistic.  As  a  tribe 
they  do  not  worship  cleanliness,  though  they  run  entirely  to  extremes 
in  this  matter — individually  they  are  either  scrupulously  clean,  or  un- 
scrupulously unclean. 

In  the  northwestern  corner  of  New  Mexico,  and  extending  into  the 
northwestern  corner  of  Arizona  lies  the  famous  Navajo  Indian  reser- 
vation. This  community  is  easiest  reached  from  the  railroad  by  a  trail 
which  leads  north  from  Wingate  station.  Immediately  south  of  this 
station  is  Ft.  Wingate,  which  is  rich  in  frontier  history. 

The  Navajos  are  progressive,  intelligent  and  self-supporting  people. 
They  are  the  most  interesting  textile  workers  of  the  deserts  and  are  the 
weavers  of  the  world-famous  Navajo  blankets  which  find  a  ready  mar- 
ket at  home  and  abroad.  The  Navajos  are  also  noted  silversmiths,  and 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        285 

are  a  most  enterprising  people  in  comparison  to  other  tribes.  They  are 
not  strictly  a  pueblo  people,  but  often  lead  nomadic  lives,  wandering 
from  place  to  place  and  dwelling  only  in  temporary  habitation.  Both 
men  and  women  are  fine  physical  types,  though  they  are  succumbing 
rapidly  to  consumption  and  pneumonia,  by  the  introduction  of  the  white 
man's  unnatural  way  of  living. 

Following  Wingate,  the  station  of  Thoreau  is  reached,  which  lies 
in  a  district  rife  with  interesting  canyons  and  Indian  pueblos;  notably 
Pueblo  Bonito,  whose  ancient  ruins  cover  seven  acres,  and  which  include 
one  building  containing  1,000  rooms. 

Chaves  is  a  station  named  after  a  noted  Indian  fighter  of  the  early 
days,  while  at  Bluewater  is  located  an  extinct  volcano,  Tintero,  meaning 
inkstand,  from  whence  the  lava  once  freely  flowed.  From  Grant  station 
the  Zuni  Mountains  can  be  seen  rising  in  the  southwest,  while  San  Ra- 
fael, the  next  stop,  is  famed  as  being  the  point  where  the  old  and  strange 
Penitentes  rites  are  still  performed.  At  McCarty's  station  are  seen  the 
end  of  the  lava  beds,  which  extend  all  the  way  from  Bluewater,  while 
to  the  northeast  of  the  station  is  Acomita,  an  offshoot  of  the  Acoma 
pueblo.  Cubero  is  an  old,  quaint  Mexican  village,  three  miles  from  the 
station,  where  the  ceremonies  brought  from  Old  Mexico  still  prevail. 
The  San  Mateo  Mountains  are  on  the  north,  stretching  from  Grant  to 
Cubero. 

A  score  or  more  of  pueblos  are  scattered  across  New  Mexico,  the 
majority  of  which  center  about  Santa  Fe  and  Albuquerque.  It  is  not 
generally  known  that  the  Pueblo  Indians  own  900,000  acres  of  land,  and 
that  since  the  Guadeloupe  Hidalogo  treaty  in  1848  they  have  been  full- 
fledged  United  States  citizens,  though  they  do  not  exercise  the  right  of 
suffrage.  However,  they  maintain  their  own  form  of  government  within 
their  pueblos. 

Three  of  the  most  important  pueblos  in  New  Mexico  and  in  the 
country,  are  those  of  Acoma,  Laguna  and  Isleta.  Acoma  pueblo  lies 
15  miles  south  of  the  railroad,  and  about  66  miles  west  of  Albuquerque, 
while  the  other  pueblos  named,  lie  very  near  the  Santa  Fe  main  line. 

The  Indian  women  of  Acoma  make  pottery  that  has  attained  a  fine 
reputation  for  beauty  and  design  throughout  the  southwest.  This  pot- 
tery is  seen  to  best  advantage  when  skillfully  poised  upon  the  heads  of 
a  long  line  of  women  as  they  pass  to  and  fro,  between  the  village  and 
the  reservoir,  where  the  pueblo  water  supply  is  stored.  Not  only  is  the 
pottery  graceful  in  outline  and  handsome  in  decoration,  but  the  Acoma 
women  have  preserved  the  ancient  art  of  firing  the  pottery;  a  knack 
which  has  been  lost  by  many  of  the  southwestern  tribes.  Day  or  night, 
these  Indians,  and  those  of  all  other  tribes  and  pueblos,  meet  the  trains 
with  a  liberal  display  of  their  wares  and  trinkets — in  fact  the  tourists 
that  pass  through  the  southwest,  contribute  to  the  support  of  the  red  men 


286        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

by  their  purchase  of  souvenirs,  and  it  is  rare  that  the  Indians  see  a  pas- 
senger train  pull  out  with  empty  purses. 

Near  Laguna  lies  the  famous  Mesa  Encantada,  or  the  "Enchanted 
Table  Land."  This  eminence  rises  precipitously  430  feet  above  the  sur- 
face, and  is  only  accessible  by  ladder  or  rope.  The  summit  gives  evi- 
dence of  former  aboriginal  occupancy,  and  the  tradition  of  the  neighbor- 
ing Acoma  Indians  is  that  their  ancestors  lived  upon  it,  but  were  forced 
to  abandon  the  village  when  a  storm  had  destroyed  the  only  trail  and 
caused  those  remaining  on  the  summit  to  perish. 

The  Indian  men  of  Laguna  have  responded  to  the  influence  of  civil- 
ization by  adopting  modern  dress  and  renouncing  war  paint  and  old  time 
regalia.  The  women  of  the  pueblo,  still  cling  to  the  dark  blue,  native- 
made  dresses  which  have  been  worn  by  Indian  women  for  hundreds  of 
years. 

Isleta,  the  pueblo  located  just  east  of  Laguna,  and  which  boasts  of 
more  than  1,000  inhabitants,  is  another  community  wherein  the  women 
do  not  change  their  fashions.  Their  strange  head-dress  and  odd  looking, 
bandage-like  leggins,  are  objects  of  greater  attraction  than  their  pottery 
and  home-made  dolls,  which  they  offer  for  sale. 

Life  among  the  Indians  of  the  pueblos  has  materially  changed  since 
influenced  by  European  contact.  Many  are  housed  today  in  the  self-same 
structures  in  which  their  forefathers  were  discovered.  The  Indian  is, 
and  ever  was,  a  true  pagan,  swathed  in  seemingly  dense  clouds  of  super- 
stition, rich  in  fanciful  legends,  and  profoundly  ceremonious  in  religion. 
Although  a  pagan,  the  purity  and  well  being  of  his  communities  will 
bear  favorable  comparison  with  those  of  the  enlightened  world.  He 
is  brave,  honest  and  enterprising  within  the  fixed  limits  of  his  little 
sphere ;  his  wife  is  virtuous  and  his  children  docile.  Pueblo  architecture 
has  none  of  the  elaborate  ornamentation  found  in.  the  Aztec  ruins  of  old 
Mexico.  The  houses  are  usually  built  of  stone  and  covered  with  an 
adobe  of  cement.  Commonly  they  are  two  or  three  stories  high,  and  join 
neighboring  houses  in  terrace  form.  The  exterior  is  painfully  plain. 
Entrance  is  made  to  the  roof  of  the  lowest  story  by  ladder. 

Acoma  is  probably  the  most  interesting  pueblo  of  New  Mexico, 
built  as  it  is  on  the  summit  of  a  table-rock  350  feet  above  the  plain,  and 
7,000  feet  above  the  sea.  Formerly  it  was  reached  only  by  a  hazardous 
stairway  rock,  up  which  the  inhabitants  carried  upon  their  backs  every 
particle  of  material  used  in  constructing  the  pueblo.  The  graveyard 
of  this  pueblo  required  40  years  in  building,  because  of  the  fact  that  all 
the  earth  was  carried  from  the  plains  far  below.  Many  generations  were 
required  in  building  the  immense  church,  whose  walls  are  60  feet  high 
and  10  feet  thick. 

According  to  tradition,  the  original  Acoma  pueblo  stood  upon  the 
crest  of  Mesa  Encantada,  three  miles  from  the  present  pueblo,  and  that 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        287 

its  only  approach  was  cut  off,  centuries  ago,  by  the  falling  of  a  cliff. 
The  story  goes  that  three  sick  women  perished,  the  other  occupants  of  the 
pueblo  being  at  work  in  the  fields  below.  Investigations  have  been  made 
by  scaling  this  crest  by  means  of  ropes  and  ladders,  and  a  number  of 
potsherds  and  fragments  of  implements  and  ornaments  were  found  upon 
the  summit. 

Laguna,  which  means  "the  lake"  was  founded  in  1699  by  refugees 
from  Acoma,  Zuni  and  Cochiti,  on  a  high  rock  near  the  San  Jose  River. 
Several  great  battles  have  been  fought  here  with  the  Navajos  and 
Apaches.  The  Laguna  Indians  also  occupy  adjacent  villages,  such  as 
Paquate,  Negra,  Encinal  and  Casa  Blanca. 

Arriving  at  Albuquerque,  the  commercial  metropolis  of  central  New 
Mexico,  we  were  introduced  to  the  crowning  glory  of  the  Sante  Fe  sys- 
tem, the  magnificent  Hotel  Alvarado.  Fancifully  garbed,  stolid  Indians, 
crouched  along  the  platform  and  at  the  hotel  entrance  offering  their 
wares  for  sale,  added  novel  color  and  beauty  to  the  picture.  The  hotel 
itself  is  a  widespreading,  low  building,  like  a  great  Spanish  mission,  save 
for  its  newness.  It  has  rough  gray  walls  and  a  far-reaching  procession 
of  arches,  while  towers  and  roof  are  red  tiled,  giving  the  quaintness  and 
oddness  of  the  mission.  Its  interior  is  beautifully  decorated  and  lux- 
uriantly comfortable,  while  within  its  walls  is  one  of  the  finest  collection 
of  Indian  curios  extant. 

The  Indians  were  more  gorgeously  attired  than  any  we  had  here- 
tofore met.  They  displayed  a  shrewdness  that  stamped  them  as  success- 
ful tradesmen.  Sir  David  who  was  versed  in  the  early  history  of  the 
invasion  of  the  white  man  into  the  lands  of  the  Indian,  had  equipped 
himself  with  beads  and  "near-gold"  jewelry,  which  wasn't  weighed  by 
the  carat,  but  as  carrots  are  measured;  namely — by  the  bushel.  Sir 
David  was  in  hope  that  he  might  encounter  some  Indian  in  his  journey 
through  the  west  who  would  gladly  part  with  a  gold  mine  or  two,  or 
several  townships,  for  the  privilege  of  wearing  some  of  this  magnificent 
jewelry,  or  trimming  his  frock  with  a  string  of  the  pure  glass  beads. 

Sir  David  did  not  offer  his  treasures  until  Indians  were  met  who  dis- 
played a  richness  of  costume,  which  indicated  their  appreciation  of  royal 
gems  or  massive  "near-gold"  creations.  Spying  a  warrior  brave,  whose 
costume  bore  nearly  every  color  and  shade  known  to  man,  Sir  David 
believed  his  hour  had  come  for  executing  a  profitable  trade,  and  draw- 
ing the  Indian  aside,  he  cautiously  revealed  to  him  a  handul  of  his  "all- 
that-glistens-is-not-gold." 

The  Sir  Knight  explained  that  he  had  become  heir  to  so  much  of 
this  jewelry  of  untold  value,  that  he  did  not  care  to  dispose  of  it  by  regu- 
lar sale,  in  fear  of  creating  suspicion  that  he  was  a  pirate.  He  admitted 
that  he  was  willing  to  exchange  some  of  his  possessions  for  gold  mines, 
real  estate  or  any  other  trifle  in  order  that  his  holdings  might  be  variated 


288        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

— he  was  tired  of  having  nothing  but  jewels.  The  Indian  seemed  much 
impressed.  He  studied  the  brass  rings,  brooches  and  stick-pins  care- 
fully and  seriously,  while  Sir  David  could  see  a  pueblo  or  two  coming 
his  way.  Finally,  with  a  last  look,  the  Indian  reached  his  hand  far  down 
into  the  recesses  of  his  pocket, and  as  he  brought  up  what  the  Sir  Knight 
believed  would  be  wealth  of  another  kind,  he  drew  out  a  handful  of  sim- 
ilar jewelry  and  proposed  that  his  white  brother  join  him  in  partnership, 
as  he  himself  had  been  waiting  several  years  to  dispose  of  the  same  kind 
of  wealth  for  something  more  novel  and  substantial.  Sir  David's  sur- 
prise was  as  complete  as  it  was  sudden,  and  casting  his  supply  of  jewelry 
at  the  feet  of  the  Indian,  suggested  that  he  take  it  all  and  thereby  corner 
the  market  on  a  commodity  that  had  lost  its  usefulness. 

Meanwhile,  Sir  Kneps  was  having  an  equally  disappointing  experi- 
ence with  another  Indian  brave.  He  was  attempting  to  interview  one  of 
the  chiefs  in  the  presence  of  Sir  Steinmiller,  and  for  the  special  edifica- 
tion of  the  latter.  Sir  Kreps  had  committed  to  memory  several  words 
he  had  heard  uttered  by  Indians  of  other  tribes.  To  these  he  added  a 
few  Spanish  phrases,  and  with  them  attempted  to  open  a  conversation 
with  the  Indian  just  to  show  his  brother  Sir  Knight  what  an  amazing 
knowledge  he  had  of  the  Indian  tongue.  However,  after  several  efforts, 
Sir  Kreps  did  not  get  a  reply,  and  the  Indian  stood  statue-like,  evidently 
as  much  amazed  as  Sir  Steinmiller.  Sir  Kreps  then  began  to  inject  some 
badly  damaged  Spanish  into  his  questions.  Then  he  tried  some  sprained 
and  dislocated  German  on  the  red  man — but  even  this  didn't  seem  "to 
take."  After  trying  a  dozen  varieties  of  jargon,  including  some  very 
rusty  Italian,  Sir  Kreps  lost  all  patience,  and  in  genuine  English  de- 
manded of  the  bronze  warrior:  "What  can  you  understand — Can't  you 
talk  ?"  Instantly  the  Indian's  face  brightened  up  as  he  exclaimed :  "Why 
didn't  you  say  so  before?  I  couldn't  understand  you.  I  am  not  one  of 
the  old  hemlocks.  I  am  not  dead  at  the  top.  The  forests  are  filled 
with  the  ghosts  of  my  fathers,  and  I  can  hear  them  moan  and  sigh 
as  the  night  winds  blow  through  the  pines — but  I  do  not  speak  in  the 
blank  verse  of  a  century  ago.  Give  me  two  bits.  You  got  heap  money." 

Sir  Kreps  bribed  Sir  Steinmiller  with  a  cigar  and  offered  to  polish 
his  shoes,  comb  his  hair  and  button  his  shirt  during  the  balance  of  the 
trip,  if  the  latter  would  agree  not  to  mention  the  incident  to  the  "other 
boys." 

The  city  of  Albuquerque  lies  at  an  altitude  of  4,935  feet  above  the 
sea  level  on  the  slope  of  a  broad  plain  and  is  protected  from  storms  by 
the  neighboring  mountain  ranges.  The  ancient  settlement  dates  back 
to  the  Spanish  invasion,  while  the  new  city  has  a  population  of  10,000 
and  is  modern  in  its  appointments.  Suburban  communities  adjacent  to 
the  city  would  bring  the  total  population  up  to  15,000.  The  University 
of  New  Mexico*  is  located  in  Albuquerque,  while  a  government  Indian 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        289 

School,  with  300  students,  is  also  located  within  the  city  limits.  The  shops 
of  the  Santa  Fe  railroad  are  also  located  here  and  employ  700  men.  One 
of  the  great  commercial  factors  is  the  handling  of  wool  from  the  many 
sheep  ranges  of  the  southwest.  Of  the  22,000,000  pounds  of  wool  pro- 
duced annually  in  New  Mexico,  Albuquerque  merchants  handle  fully 
one-fifth.  Good  railway  facilities  offer  a  bright  future  to  the  community. 
The  Atchison,  Topeka  and  Santa  Fe  gives  access  to  all  points  north 
and  south,  while  the  Santa  Fe  Pacific  gives  direct  communication  with 
all  the  country  between  the  Rio  Grande  and  the  Pacific  coast.  Eastern 
New  Mexico  has  never  been  in  close  touch  with  the  city,  but  first  class 
facilities  in  that  direction  are  promised  by  the  new  lines  of  the  Santa  Fe 
Central  and  Albuquerque  Eastern. 


CHAPTER  XXXI. 

EAVING  Albuquerque  we  pushed  upward  along  the  Rio  Grande 
del  Norte  and  Galisteo  Rivers  over  the  mountains.     The  quaint 
and  interesting  towns  of  Almeda,  Bernalillo,  Algodores  and  Elota 
were  passed  before  we  reached  Thornton  where  a  short  stop  was 
made. 

Here  we  were  especially  attracted  by  Indians  who  represented  the 
tribes  that  find  their  pueblos  between  Albuquerque  and  Thornton,  in  the 
country  that  lies  on  either  side  of  the  railroad.  Here  the  Santo  Domingo 
or  Queres  tribe  finds  its  home  in  the  bottom  lands  along  the  Rio  Grande, 
about  three  miles  south  of  Thornton. 

Their  pueblo  is  built  out  of  reach  of  the  tortuous  river — this  precau- 
tion having  been  learned  by  the  costly  experience  which  wiped  out  the 
old  pueblo,  built  by  the  forefathers  of  the  Queres.  The  new  pueblo 
is  said  to  be  much  like  the  old,  differing  only  in  whitewash  ornamen- 
tations, which  the  red  man  has  adopted  from  his  pale  face  brethren. 

It  is  in  this  region  that  the  Indian  women  have  also  gained  distinc- 
tion in  house-building.  Additional  credit  must  be  given  them,  when  one 
considers  that  house-building  in  a  pueblo  is  no  delicate  task,  for  they 
are  substantial  structures  of  stone  or  burnt  brick.  Aside  from  this  ardu- 
ous undertaking,  the  women  find  time  for  routine  household  work  (the 
servant  girl  problem  is  unknown  in  this  land  of  simple  life)  and  consider- 
able time  is  devoted  each  day  to  basketmaking  and  the  manufacture 

(19) 


290        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

of  pottery  as  a  means  to  gather  the  shekles  from  the  traveling  and  visit- 
ing public.  Embroidery  and  weaving  are  but  side  issues  with  the  busy 
Queres. 

The  Queres  are  unlike  other  Indian  tribes  in  the  southwest  in  their 
treatment  of  women.  In  many  other  pueblos  the  squaw  is  little  else  than 
a  beast  of  burden — a  slave  who  is  destined  to  toil  without  murmur.  But 
here  women's  rights  are  recognized.  Not  only  are  the  women  house- 
builders,  but  house-owners  as  well,  and  are  heads  of  the  household  from 
every  standpoint. 

Notwithstanding  the  many  duties  of  the  Queres  Indian  woman,  the 
man  now  performs  much  of  the  work  which  was  formerly  alloted  to  the 
woman.  They  work  in  the  fields,  cut  wood,  .traffic  in  pottery  and  basket 
work,  secure  and  prepare  the  meals,  and  in  many  instances  have  proved 
themselves  tender  and  careful  nurses  in  caring  for  the  puny  little  pa- 
poose with  fatherly  pride. 

"Corn  day"  is  the  great  festival  occasion  among  the  Queres  and 
many  other  tribes.  The  services  are  partly  religious  and  partly  pagan. 
Mass  is  said  during  the  early  morning  hours,  after  which  the  firing  of  a 
gun  is  the  signal  that  the  idol  or  image-bearing  procession  has  left  the 
church.  The  first  group  of  native  dancers  then  appear.  They  are  selected 
braves — tall,  well  formed  and  stripped,  with  the  exception  of  breech 
cloths.  They  are  known  as  "delight  men"  and  on  their  moccasins  are 
branches  of  cedar,  while  their  head  dress  is  a  "corn"  design.  Their 
bodies  and  faces  are  painted  for  the  occasion  with  a  white  substance  sim- 
ilar to  a  weak  solution  of  whitewash,  while  on  their  arms,  legs,  bodies  and 
faces  are  drawn  fantastic  black  lines  and  circles. 

Following  the  appearance  of  these  men  the  estufas  begin  to  pour 
forth  other  hordes  of  dancers,  men  and  women — the  latter  in  sombre 
black  short  skirts,  with  bodice  loose  and  draping  off  on  one  shoulder  and 
caught  at  the  waist  by  a  belt  of  red  cord  and  perfectly  straight.  Green 
cedar  branches  are  the  decorations,  and  the  women  bear  branches  of  this 
in  their  hands,  which  they  wave  in  rhythmic,  monotonous  fashion. 

The  braves  are  painted  much  like  the  "delight  men"  and  bear  dance 
"rattles"  in  their  hands,  while  on  their  legs  are  tied  by  ribbons  the  little 
tinkling  bells  that  chime  in  with  the  tom-tom  and  jingle  of  the  dance. 
Usually  the  dancers  are  in  two  relays — the  first  numbering  95  and  the 
second  65,  men  and  women. 

Besides  the  dancers  and  the  "delight  men"  are  choirs  (  ?)  numbering 
25  to  30  alleged  singers  each,  who  chant  in  tones  of  moaning,  and  gut- 
teralings  and  staccatos,  in  an  effort  to  present  weird  hymns  and  prayers. 
To  the  accompaniment  of  this  choir,  led  by  a  banner  bearer  and  a  tom- 
tom beater,  the  dancers  file  out  on  the  plaza  in  a  long  column,  squaws 
behind  the  bucks,  who  begin  at  first  a  simple  springing  dance.  The  men 
dance,  the  women  simply  move  their  feet  in  time  to  the  music,  never 


"  Santa  Fi  all  the  WOL)."  Caurltijr  Mr.  Frank  S.  Thaji 

THE    CAMERA    IN    THE    SOUTHWEST. 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        291 

lifting  them.  Soon  the  cries  deepen  from  the  choir,  the  "delight  men" 
hop  and  prance  in  frantic  contortions  of  body  and  arms,  the  long  column 
breaks  into  circles,  semi-circles  and  swaying  groups.  1  ne  dancing  grows 
fiercer,  and  the  chanting  rises  and  falls  in  monotonous  rhythm. 

One  relay  retires  to  the  estufa  and  another  is  ready  to  take  up  the 
refrain  and  the  gyrations.  At  intervals  a  sharp,  piercing  yell  is  heard 
from  some  choir  leader,  and  the  wave  of  religious  fervor  rolls  upward 
and  the  painted  bodies  sway  and  quicken  until  the  mass  seems  an  un- 
earthly thing  of  writhing,  many-colored  forms.  This  dancing  and  chant- 
ing is  kept  up  on  the  sands  of  a  hot  open  plaza  for  hours  without  a 
moment's  intermission.  It  is  a  most  wonderful  and  fantastic  exhibition 
of  savage  fervor  and  endurance. 

After  seven  hours  of  this  dancing  and  gyrating  the  participants  show 
signs  of  vast  physical  strain.  There  are  no  "break-downs,"  no  need  for 
an  ambulance,  but  as  the  shadows  lengthen  across  the  plaza  and  the  twi- 
light begins  to  creep  down  from  the  adjoining  canyons  the  worshipers 
by  common  consent  or  under  the  direction  of  the  leaders  fall  away  and 
with  painted  faces  and  blood-shot  eyes  there  are  ample  signs  of  the  ter- 
rible strain  under  which  they  have  made  this  festival  oblation  to  their 
god. 

It  is  but  a  short  ride  from  Thornton  to  Lamy,  from  which  point,  a 
spur  of  the  railroad,  running  northwest,  carries  one  to  that  quaint  and 
antique  town  of  Santa  Fe,  the  capital  of  New  Mexico,  and  with  the  ex- 
ception of  St.  Augustine,  Fla.,  the  oldest  city  in  the  United  States. 

Centuries  seem  to  have  wrought  but  little  change  in  the  town  of 
Santa  Fe,  which  still  dozes  comfortably  on  a  sunny  plain,  surrounded  by 
a  rim  of  mountains  whose  peaks  tower  from  10,000  to  13,000  feet. 

In  the  very  early  days,  long  before  the  arrival  of  the  Pilgrims  at 
Plymouth,  Santa  Fe  was  an  Indian  pueblo,  and  in  1605  the  Spaniards 
came,  conquered  and  reduced  the  Indians  to  slavery  and  worked  them 
relentlessly  in  the  gold  and  silver  mines.  Among  the  old  archives  is 
found  a  census  taken  at  that  time,  1605,  which  gives  a  population  of 
1,708  inhabitants.  In  300  years  time  this  population  has  increased  to 
about  8,000. 

In  the  older  sections  of  the  town,  the  streets  are  narrow  and  crooked, 
and  many  of  the  buildings  exist  as  they  did  a  hundred  or  more  years  ago, 
the  majority  of  which  are  constructed  of  adobe,  or  sun-dried  brick.  The 
Governor's  Palace,  a  long,  one-story  structure,  which  faces  on  the  princi- 
pal open  space,  known  as  the  Plaza,  was  built  during  the  early  Spanish 
regime,  and  has  been  used  constantly  as  the  official  residence  of  the  chief 
executive  under  whatever  title  and  authority  he  served.  Eighteen 
American,  and  76  Mexican  and  Spanish  rulers  have  occupied  the  palace, 
and  it  was  in  this  building  that  Gen.  Lew  Wallace,  then  territorial  gover- 
nor of  New  Mexico,  wrote  his  famous  book,  "Ben  Hur."  The  story  of 


292        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

the  palace  stretches  back  into  real  antiquity,  to  a  time  when  the  Inquisi- 
tion had  power,  when  zealous  friars  exhorted  throngs  of  dimly  compre- 
hending heathens,  and  when  the  mailed  warriors  of  Coronado  told  mar- 
velous uncontradicted  tales  of  ogres,  that  were  believed  to  dwell  in  the 
surrounding  wilderness. 

Beneath  its  roof  are  garnered  priceless  treasures  of  that  ancient 
time,  which  are  in  the  custody  of  the  New  Mexican  Historical  Society, 
and  which  include  paintings,  idol  offerings,  stone  gods,  ancient  domestic 
utensils,  and  implements  of  war  and  valuable  historical  data. 

Seventy-five  years  after  the  capture  of  the  Indian  pueblo  by  the 
Spaniards,  or  in  1680,  the  Indians  recaptured  and  pillaged  the  town  and 
massacred  such  missionaries  and  explorers  who  failed  to  flee  with  the 
governor  to  El  Paso  during  the  night  of  the  uprising.  Twelve  years 
later,  in  1692,  Diego  de  Vargas,  marching  up  from  the  south,  mounted 
a  hill  overlooking  the  town  with  a  little  army  of  200  countrymen.  He 
viewed  the  place  from  whence  his  people  had  been  driven  and  where  they 
had  been  slaughtered  a  dozen  years  before ;  and  vowing  vengeance, 
swooped  down  upon  the  Indians,  and  in  concentrated  attack  opened  battle 
which  resulted  in  the  restoration  of  Spanish  rule.  In  1821  the  to>wn 
passed  into  Mexican  rule,  and  in  1846  United  States  troups  under  Gen. 
S.  W.  Kearney  took  possession  of  the  town.  The  stirring  scenes  accom- 
panying the  destruction  of  the  traffic  of  the  Santa  Fe  Trail,  the  wild 
deeds  of  the  desperados,  and  the  fabulous  hazards  at  cards,  in  the  days 
before  the  advent  of  the  railroad,  afford  material  for  an  epic  poem  of  the 
deepest  interest. 

So  uniformly  old  and  well  preserved  are  the  buildings  of  this  an- 
cient town  that  the  palace  and  San  Miguel  church,  which  was  first  built 
in  1540,  are  still  in  use.  The  church,  which  is  said  to  be  the  oldest  in  the 
United  States,  was  destroyed  by  the  Indians  and  rebuilt  in  1710.  So 
few  changes  have  been  made  in  the  old  quarter  that  if  some  sturdy  figure 
in  bright,  clanking  armor  should  obligingly  pass  by,  an  exact  picture  ol 
the  place  would  be  reproduced,  as  it  appeared  250  years  ago.  Nothing 
but  such  a  figure  has  departed  from  the  scene,  and  substantially  nothing 
new  has  entered  in. 

In  the  newer  section  of  the  town  wide  streets  have  been  introduced 
as  well  as  some  very  modern  buildings,  and  with  this  as  a  contrast,  Santa 
Fe  offers  object  lessons  whereby  the  civilization  of  the  seventeenth  and 
eighteenth  centuries  can  be  compared  and  contrasted  to  the  nineteenth 
and  twentieth  centuries. 

Within  a  radius  of  50  miles,  with  Santa  Fe  as  the  center,  lies  the 
heart  of  New  Mexico,  with  its  richest  gold,  silver,  copper,  lead,  iron  and 
coal  mines,  and  deposits  of  marble,  clay  and  turquoise.  In  this  circle 
there  is  also  room  for  profitable  irrigation  enterprise.  Here  are  located 
the  famous  cliff  dwellings,  the  pyramids  of  America,  10  Indian  pueblos, 


THE    CAMERA 


THE    SOUTHWEST. 


I — Indian  Pottery,  etc.  2 — Gallinas  Canon,  Las  Vegas,  Hot  Springs.  3 — Montezuma  Hotel.  Las  Vegas,  Hot  Springs.  4— 
A  Hopi  Mother  with  Baby  in  Basket-work  Cradle.  $ — Apache  Girl.  6 — Isleti  Women.  7  -Kiow.i  Woman  and  Child.  8 — 
Nayaho  Baby  in  Cradle.  9— Navaho  Mother  with  Child.  lo — Hop!  Girt  and  Baby.  n— A  Woman  of  Sia.  12— Oraibi  Girls 
Grinding  Corn.  13 — Making  Bread  (  Piki  ).  14 — San  Juan  Girl,  is — Tulare  Woman  Milling,  Tule  Reservation.  16 — Papago 
Woman  with  Wood-carrying  Basket.  17 — Harvesting  Manzanita  Berries,  Mono,  Hookers  Cove,  Madera  County.  '8 — Hotel 
Gardenas,  at  Trinidad,  iq — A  Pima  Basket  Maker.  20 — Hopi  Maiden  Weaving  a  Plaque.  21 — Oldest  House  in  United  States, 
Santa  F6.  22 — Hotel  Alvarado,  Albuquerque,  N.  M.  24 — Firing  Pottery,  Acoma.  2<; — Potters.  26 — Burro  Alley,  Santa  F6. 
27-20— Street  Scene,  Santa  F6.  28— The  Plaza,  Santa  F6.  31— A  Hopi'Pottery  Maker.  23— Stock  Yards,  Kansas  City,  Mo. 
30 — Stock  Exchange,  Kansas  City,  Mo. 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        293 

the  oldest  buildings  in  the  United  States  and  hundreds  of  other  spots 
which  awaken  memories  of  romance  more  fascinating  than  fiction  and 
which  bridge  the  great  stretch  of  time  between  the  coming  of  the  Con- 
quistadores  and  the  supplanting  of  the  Santa  Fe  Trail  by  the  railroad 
of  that  name. 

Crossing  the  Glorieta  range  of  the  Rockies,  through  Glorieta  Pass, 
whose  altitude  is  7,453  feet,  and  passing  Starvation  Peak,  where  legend 
says  a  band  of  Spaniards  were  surrounded  and  starved  to  death  by  In- 
dians in  1800,  one  comes  to  the  pretty  little  town  of  Las  Vegas. 

It  is  situated  on  both  sides  of  the  Gallinas  River  and  has  a  popula- 
tion of  about  10,000.  While  portions  of  the  old  town  are  quaint  and 
picturesque,  Las  Vegas  as  a  whole  is  modern  and  thrifty.  Its  history 
dates  from  1835,  when  Mexico  founded  a  colony  there,  and  gave  500,000 
acres  to  the  community  for  colonization  and  agricultural  purposes.  In 
the  romantic  mountain  glens,  surrounding  Las  Vegas  are  located  many 
noted  and  picturesque  health  resorts,  among  them  being:  Las  Vegas 
Hot  Springs,  Harvey's,  El  Porvenir,  Sandoval's,  Mineral  Hill,  Romero 
Ranch,  Blakes,  Sparks,  Sapello  and  Rociada. 

Las  Vegas  is  the  headquarters  for  the  New  Mexico  division  of  the 
Santa  Fe  railroad  system,  and  railroad  machine  shops  are  located  there. 
While  we  were  in  Las  Vegas  a  monument  to  Pittsburgh  was  under  con- 
struction, in  the  erection  of  a  Carnegie  Library.  Throughout  our  pil- 
grimage we  saw  an  almost  continuous  chain  of  these  book  repositories, 
and  we  felt  that  every  time  these  buildings  spelled  the  word  "Carnegie" 
that  the  word  "Pittsburgh"  was  unconsciously  but  ever  present.  Sir 
Benkart,  in  discussing  the  libraries,  declared  that  he  could  not  help  ad- 
miring Mr.  Carnegie,  because  of  his  diplomacy,  for  instead  of  "painting 
the  town  red"  he  had  made  it  well-read,  by  more  graceful  means. 

Las  Vegas  means  "The  Meadows"  and  the  term  is  most  appropri- 
ate, as  the  town  has  grown  at  the  very  verge  of  plain  and  mountain, 
where  the  meadows  gradually  broaden  until  they  finally  open  into  the 
broad  New  Mexican  plain  that  sweeps  away  toward  the  southeast. 

After  we  left  Las  Vegas  for  Raton,  the  first  town  of  any  import  is 
Watrous.  This  place  lies  at  the  head  of  Mora  Canyon  near  old  Fort 
Union.  Mora  Canyon  is  50  miles  long,  rather  modest  in  comparison 
to  the  Apache  Canyon  and  the  great  gorges  of  Arizona,  but  neverthe- 
less impressive  and  rich  in  beauty.  Wagon  Mound  is  an  oddly  named 
town,  which  was  formerly  a  Mexican  frontier  customhouse,  and  a 
picturesque  point  on  the  Santa  Fe  Trail.  The  community  is  rich  in 
legend  and  has  interesting  landmarks.  The  town  of  Springer  is  the 
supply  point  for  the  Red  River  mines  and  Taos  pueblo,  while  the 
town  takes  a  special  pride  in  its  mineral  water  artesian  wells. 

Raton  is  almost  on  the  northern  boundry  line  of  the  territory  ol 
New  Mexico  and  but  a  short  distance  from  Colorado.  It  is  one  of  the 


most  prosperous  towns  in  the  southwest  and  is  known  as  the  "Gate  City" 
of  New  Mexico.  It  lies  in  the  shadow  of  the  Raton  Mountains  and  is  in 
the  center  of  a  rich  coal  mining  region  and  promising  oil  field. 

As  our  train  climbed  the  winding  mountain  pass  and  rushed  through 
a  long  tunnel  out  of  New  Mexico,  we  carried  away  impressions  of  the 
wonderful  opportunities  of  this  land  in  the  sky. 

Were  all  the  hills  and  mountains  of  New  Mexico  leveled  into  its 
valleys,  its  entire  area  would  be  spread  out  upon  a  plain  of  120,000 
square  miles  that  would  stand  higher  above  the  sea  than  the  highest  peak 
in  the  Catskill  or  Adirondack  Mountains.  Its  air  is  rarefied,  its  scenery 
rich  in  color.  It  has  its  forests,  rich  red  soil  and  great  rivers,  as  well 
as  its  prairies,  mountains,  rock  walls,  canyons  and  dead  volcanoes  and 
lava  beds. 

One  never  fully  appreciates  the  rapid  strides  of  American  progress 
until  he  has  traveled  in  a  Pullman  car  over  a  waste  that  25  years  ago 
was  a  journey  of  wild  adventure  and  hazard  of  life.  The  Valley  of 
Death  and  Journey  of  the  Dead  are  names  still  borne  by  waterless  tracts, 
and  justified  by  the  bleached  bones  of  cattle  and  mounds  of  scattered 
graves. 

Rescued  from  centuries  of  horror,  New  Mexico  is  now  a  land  of 
broad  ranges,  where  thousands  upon  thousands  of  sheep  and  cattle 
browse  upon  nutritious  grasses;  where  fields  of  grain  wave  in  harmony 
with  the  breeze;  where  orchard  trees  bend  under  the  weight  of  luscious 
fruits  and  where  the  rocks  lay  bare  veins  of  ore  and  metal. 

Large  and  profitable  ranches  are  being  established  in  great  num- 
bers as  well  as  innumerable  small  farms.  This  is  the  paradox  of  a  region 
whose  softer  scenes  will  often  seem  to  be  overborne  by  bleak  mountains, 
desert  and  lava  beds.  Scattered  by  the  wayside  are  sleepy  Mexican 
villages,  ancient  Indian  pueblos,  and  those  older  abandoned  ruins  which 
give  the  region  its  peculiar  air  of  mystery. 

The  major  portion  of  the  resources  of  New  Mexico  are  still  latent; 
its  wealth  is  undeveloped.  There  is  an  average  of  but  two  inhabitants 
to  each  square  mile,  and  but  one  acre  out  of  each  300  under  cultivation. 
Mining  is  in  its  infancy  and  the  natural  water  power  and  fuel  which 
abounds,  is  almost  untouched.  The  whole  territory  of  New  Mexico  with 
its  area  of  122,469  square  miles  embraces  a  population  not  equal  in  num- 
bers to  that  of  the  city  of  Pittsburgh. 

Out  of  a  total  of  78,000,000  acres  but  250,000  are  in  cultivation 
under  irrigation  ditches  and  there  is  a  vast  opening  for  enterprise  in  re- 
claiming broad  areas  of  fertile  land.  Nor  is  there  lack  of  water  for  re- 
claiming at  least  a  portion  of  this  vast  arid  domain.  The  flood  waters 
which  flow  to  waste  annually,  the  ordinary  flow  of  the  rivers  and  streams 
that  run  unused,  the  cheapness  of  pumping  water  from  unfailing  wells  in 
many  sections,  and  the  undoubted  existence  of  large  artesian  belts,  all 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        295 

promise  that  eventually,  a  large  portion  of  the  territory  will  be  under  suc- 
cessful irrigation. 

New  Mexico  can  properly  be  divided  into  three  distinct  regions: 
the  Eastern  Plains,  the  Rio  Grande  Valley  and  the  Western  Plateau. 
The  eastern  portion  is  an  extension  of  the  high  plains  of  Texas,  broken 
by  the  waters  of  the  Canadian  and  Pecos  Rivers.  This  broad  stretch 
of  open  grazing  land  continues  to  the  uplands  which  form  the  southern 
extension  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  of  Colorado.  Beyond  this  broken 
country  is  the  Rio  Grande  Valley,  and  still  further  west  are  the  elevated, 
arid  table  lands.  In  the  Rio  Grande  section  are  a  few  very  large  irri- 
gation canals  and  many  small  community  ditches  held  by  Indians  and 
settlers  alike.  The  development  of  the  agricultural  resources  depends 
largely  upon  the  control  of  the  Rio  Grande.  The  inflow  from  many 
streams  maintain  the  river  at  good  volume  in  the  northern  section. 
Large  dams  constructed  at  these  points  would  render  it  possible  to  store 
great  quantities  of  water  for  the  irrigation  of  a  number  of  open  valleys 
along  the  course  of  the  river.  Irrigation  on  the  eastern  plain  is  of  com- 
paratively recent  introduction. 

New  Mexico  does  not,  however,  depend  entirely  upon  the  water 
from  flowing  streams  or  stored  flood  waters.  There  are  many  artesian 
wells,  developed  to  their  greatest  extent.  Then  there  is  a  great  under- 
ground flow  in  nearly  every  river  valley,  which  is  available  by  pumping. 

The  great  American  Desert,  of  which  New  Mexico  was  once  a  part, 
almost  in  entirety,  is  gradually  disappearing,  as  flourishing  orchards,  and 
vineyards  and  gardens  have  sprung  up  to  succeed  the  cactus,  and  hide 
the  sandy  waste.  The  greatest  blow  at  this  mythical  desert — which  is 
only  a  desert  because  of  lack  of  water — was  the  passage  of  a  National 
Irrigation  bill,  which  will  transform  a  large  portion  of  this  expanse  into 
a  section  of  dense  and  productive  population. 

As  we  emerged  from  Raton  Pass  tunnel,  which  stands  at  an  eleva- 
tion of  7,600  feet,  we  came  in  sight  of  the  ruins  of  the  old  toll-house, 
where  for  many  years  the  famous  veteran,  Dick  Wooten,  collected  toll 
from  those  who  used  the  wagon  trail  through  the  pass.  Both  ruin  and 
trail  are  of  interest  as  belonging  to  the  ante-railroad  period  of  thrilling 
adventure ;  for  by  that  road  and  past  the  site  of  the  now  dilapidated  toll- 
house journeyed  every  overland  stage,  every  prairie  schooner,  every  cara- 
van, every  emigrant,  and  every  soldier  cavalcade  bound  to  the  south- 
western country  in  the  early  days.  A  little  beyond  and  we  faced  a  bound- 
ary post  marked  on  one  side  "New  Mexico"  and  whose  other  side  bore 
the  inscription  "Colorado." 

Trinidad,  the  first  stop  made  in  Colorado,  is  the  Connellsville  of  the 
west,  for  its  coke  ovens  and  coke  industry  are  unequalled  beyond  the 
Mississippi.  Trinidad  is  also  a  center  for  coal,  iron  and  woolen  indus- 
tries of  no  mean  proportions.  Lying  at  the  base  of  Raton  Pass,  Trinidad 


296        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

has  an  "uphill"  fight  for  suburban  growth,  yet  there  are  many  handsome 
buildings  in  this  city  of  manufacture.  One  of  the  most  attractive  is  a 
modern  Santa  Fe-Harvey  hotel,  known  as  Hotel  Cardenas,  and  named 
after  the  first  white  man  who  saw  the  Grand  Canyon.  The  hotel  is  in 
the  highly  impressive  mission  style  of  architecture,  and  its  appointments 
are  up  to  the  Santa  Fe  and  Harvey  standards. 

It  was  here,  at  Trinidad,  that  Sir  Beckert  left  the  "happy  family" 
for  a  few  days  hunt  in  the  mountains.  He  said  he  was  going  to  seek 
bear.  We  thought  it  a  bare  tale.  Sir  McFarland  felt  sure  that  Sir 
Beckert  was  only  hunting  trouble,  while  Sir  Lee  was  convinced  that  he 
was  going  to  hunt  mushrooms  or  listen  to  the  trees  bark.  Sir  Watson 
was  much  discomforted  when  told  that  Sir  Beckert  had  gone  to  hunt 
game,  and  announced  that  he  need  not  have  gone  into  the  wilderness : 
We  could  give  him  any  kind  of  a  game  he  wanted,  right  here,  and  saved 
him  money."  Sir  Bader  explained  that  he  wasn't  hunting  pinochle.  At 
any  rate,  we  left  Sir  Beckert  behind  with  our  best  wishes. 

As  we  whirled  across  the  gray-brown  plains  of  Colorado,  at  almost 
a  mile-a-minute   clip,   we   amused   ourselves   watching  the   antics   and 
capers  of  the  prairie  dogs.     Countless  hundreds  were  at  play,  at  work, 
sitting  on  their  haunches,  or  scampering  about. 

A  brief  stop  was  made  at  La  Junta  where  a  branch  line  of  the  Santa 
Fe  runs  almost  directly  north  to  the  city  of  Denver.  La  Junta's  chief 
import  lies  in  its  position  as  a  railroad  center  for  the  surrounding 
country.  Las  Animas,  the  next  stop,  is  rich  in  the  heritage  of  legends 
and  frontier  stories.  It  was  in  this  vicinity  that  Kit  Carson  made  Bent's 
his  headquarters  for  a  time  when  the  Arapahoes,  Kiowas  and  Cheyennes 
wintered  at  Big  Timbers,  and  when  Fort  William  (later  known  as  Fort 
Lyon)  afforded  security  for  the  frontiersmen  in  time  of  unusual  danger. 
Pike's  Peak  is  clearly  distinguishable  from  Las  Animas,  although  100 
miles  distant,  and  the  two  Spanish  Peaks  hover  upon  the  horizon. 

It  is  here  that  Colorado  presents  itself  as  a  plateau  elevated  4,000 
feet  above  the  sea,  railway  and  river  continuing  as  close  neighbors 
through  the  gently  ascending  plains. 

The  Arkansas  Valley,  all  the  way  from  La  Junta  to  the  Kansas 
state  line  and  beyond,  is  in  summer  comparable  to  an  endless  green  rib- 
bon, stretched  loosely  across  the  wide  gray  prairie.  Its  alfalfa  fields, 
melon  patches,  beet  sugar  acres  and  enterprising  towns  stand  as  undis- 
putable  evidence  that  irrigation  pays. 

La  Junta,  Las  Animas,  Rocky  Ford,  Lamar  and  Holly  are  the 
centers  of  this  irrigated  district  whose  pastoral  prosperity  are  in  marked 
contrast  to  the  grim  and  forbidding  mountains  we  had  just  left. 

Four  miles  west  of  Holly,  just  before  reaching  the  Kansas  state  line, 
is  the  little  colony  established  by  the  Salvation  Army,  and  known  as 
Fort  Amity.  This  community  consists  of  1,800  acres,  upon  which  250 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        297 

colonists  have  been  gathered  out  of  the  crowded  cities.  Agriculture  is 
indulged  in,  along  somewhat  co-operative  lines,  and  considerable  success 
has  marked  the  venture. 

Passing  Holly  we  entered  the  state  of  Kansas  and  greeted  Syracuse 
as  the  first  stop.  Garden  City,  the  next  town,  is  the  location  of  an  im- 
portant government  agriculture  experimental  station.  Dodge  City  of 
cowboy  fame,  where  Mountain  Time  is  succeeded  by  Central  Time  for 
the  east-bound  tourist,  was  our  next  stop.  Dodge  City  is  rapidly  becom- 
ing a  manufacturing  point  of  much  import,  and  its  "wild  and  wooly" 
early  history  has  been  obliterated.  As  we  passed  the  station  of  Larned 
we  were  reminded  of  the  fact  that  on  an  island  opposite,  in  the  Arkansas 
River,  a  fierce  battle  was  fought  in  1870  between  hostile  Cheyennes  and 
Arapahoes.  Pawnee  Rock,  derives  its  name  from  a  high  rock  north  of 
the  little  station,  where  many  fierce  Indian  battles  were  fought,  and 
where  Generals  Hancock  and  Robert  E.  Lee  and  Kit  Carson  made  note- 
worthy visits.  Great  Bend,  which  is  a  railroad  junction,  is  just  west  of 
the  ruins  of  old  Fort  Zarah. 

The  Santa  Fe  railroad,  across  this  vast  agricultural  country,  follows 
the  old  Santa  Fe  trail.  In  the  days  of  prairie  schooner  trains  the  trail 
began  at  Westport  (now  Kansas  City)  and  followed  the  Kaw  River  to 
Lawrence,  thence  over  the  hills  to  Burlingame  and  Council  Grove;  the 
Arkansas  Valley  being  reached  at  Fort  Zarah  (now  Great  Bend).  The 
trail  crept  up  this  valley  to  Bent's  Fort  which  is  now  Las  Animas,  and 
climbed  the  mountain  through  Raton  Pass. 

It  is  but  thirty  years  ago  that  the  Comanches  and  Pawnees  made 
almost  every  mile  of  the  toilsome,  slow  passage  through  Kansas  danger- 
ous for  the  wagon  trains  that  would  slowly  cross  the  plains  laden  with 
traffic  for  the  southwest.  Except  those  heavily  guarded  by  military 
escorts,  they  were  subject  to  frequent  attacks  by  day  and.  night.  Mem- 
ories of  those  fighting  days  reflect  themselves  upon  the  mind  of  the  trav- 
eler as  he,  today,  speeds  over  the  same  pathway  in  a  luxuriant  parlor  car. 

Kansas  is  as  rich  in  Indian  lore  as  are  New  Mexico  and  Arizona, 
although  today  the  red  man  has  given  way  almost  entirely  to  his  white 
brethren.  Less  than  a  half-century  ago  the  broad  plains  of  Kansas  were 
peopled  with  many  fierce,  warlike  Indian  tribes,  the  survivors  of  which 
are  now  chiefly  in  Indian  Territory.  There,  some  of  them  are  becoming 
rich,  owing  to  their  advancement  in  civilization  and  industrial  pursuits, 
but  chiefly  by  the  oil  booms  that  have  visited  that  portion  of  the  country. 

Years  ago  Kansas  was  the  roaming  ground  for  the  Cheyennes,  Ara- 
pahoes, Kiowas,  Pawnees,  Osages  and  other  tribes,  but  one  by  one  they 
were  removed  to  Indian  Territory  where  reservations  were  allotted  them. 
Some  consented  to  remain,  but  others,  like  the  Kiowas,  continually  es- 
caped and  harassed  neighboring  Indians  and  white  settlers. 

Previous  to  the  time  when  the  Indians  were  colonized  by  the  govern- 


298        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

ment,  the  state  of  Kansas  was  divided,  geographically,  by  the  red  men. 
The  Cheyennes  and  Arapahoes  domineered  western  Kansas ;  the  Oto, 
Missouri  and  Kaw  tribes  held  sway  in  northeastern  Kansas ;  the  Kiowa 
held  southwestern  Kansas ;  the  Osage  tribe  roamed  southeastern  Kansas, 
and  central  Kansas  was  the  battlefield  where  these  tribes  often  met  and 
fought  their  differences. 

Evidences  of  former  Indian  life  is  still  seen  in  Kansas,  and  here  and 
there  a  few  Indians  may  be  encountered  tilling  the  soil,  owning  farms, 
and  living  the  life  of  good  citizens. 

Continuing  across  the  state  of  Kansas,  a  series  of  vigorous  young 
cities  were  seen  at  frequent  intervals,  including  Hutchinson,  which  is 
famous  for  its  salt  industry;  Burrton  and  Newton,  in  the  vicinity  of 
which  is  the  colony  of  the  Mennonites,  a  Russian  sect  that  fled  to  Ameri- 
ca from  the  domain  of  the  Czar  to  find  relief  from  oppression.  Flor- 
ence, Strong  City,  Emporia  and  Osage  City  were  passed  in  the  order 
named. 

Topeka,  which  is  the  state  capital  of  Kansas  was  reached  late  in  the 
evening.  It  is  a  well-groomed  city,  with  broad  avenues  and  innumerable 
shade  trees,  and  is  conceded  to  be  one  of  the  prettiest  capitals  in  the 
west.  Here  are  the  general  offices  and  principal  shops  of  the  Santa  Fe 
railroad  system  and  several  imposing  state  buildings. 

Sixty-seven  miles  from  the  Missouri  and  built  on  both  sides  of  the 
Kansas  River  is  the  city  of  Topeka  with  a  population  of  about  35,000. 
In  this  eastern  portion  of  Kansas,  prior  to  the  Civil  War,  was  fought, 
often  with  bloodshed,  the  protracted  border  contest  between  the  Free- 
soil  and  Pro-slavery  parties,  for  the  possession  of  the  State,  that  had  so 
much  to  do  with  bringing  on  the  greater  conflict. 

When  Congress  passed  the  bill  in  1854  organizing  Nebraska  and 
Kansas  into  territories,  an  effort  was  made  to  establish  slavery,  and  the 
Missourians,  coming  over  the  border,  tried  to  control  the  situation.  They 
founded  Atchison  and  other  places  and  sent  in  settlers.  At  the  same 
time  Aid  Societies  for  anti-slavery  emigrants  began  colonizing  from  New 
England,  large  numbers  thus  coming  to  pre-empt  lands.  During  four 
years  the  contest  went  on,  Lawrence  and  other  towns  being  besieged  and 
burnt.  The  first  Free-State  Constitution  was  framed  at  Topeka  in  1855, 
which  Congress  would  not  approve,  and  the  following  year  Pro-Slavery 
Constitution  was  enacted  in  Lecompton,  which  the  people  rejected. 
After  the  Civil  War  began,  Kansas  was  admitted  into  the  Union  in  1861, 
with  slavery  prohibited.  Among  the  Free-Soilers  who  went  out  to  en- 
gage in  these  Kansas  conflicts  was  "Old  John  Brown."  Near  the  Mis- 
souri border,  to  the  southward  of  Kansas  River,  is  the  little  town  of  Oso- 
watomie,  in  the  early  settlement  of  which  Brown  took  part.  Here  he 
had  his  fights  with  the  slavery  invaders  who  came  over  from  Missouri, 
finally  burned  the  place,  killing  Brown's  son — a  tragedy  said  to  have 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        299 

inspired  his  subsequent  crusade  against  Harper's  Ferry,  which  practi- 
cally opened  the  Civil  War.  A  monument  is  erected  to  the  memory  of 
John  Brown  in  Osowatomie. 

The  Civil  War  ended  all  these  conflicts,  and  since  its  conclusion 
Kansas  has  been  eminently  peaceful.  It  has  become  the  leading  State 
in  the  corn  belt  which  broadly  crosses  the  middle  of  the  United  States. 
Its  vast  corn  crops  make  the  wealth  of  the  people,  and  as  the  crops  are 
from  year  to  year — good  or  poor — so  is  Kansas — either  in  joy  or  de- 
spair. One  year  the  farmers  will  be  overwhelmed  with  debt ;  the  next 
brings  an  ample  crop,  and  all  debts  are  paid  leaving  the  growers  in 
affluence.  Thus  throbs  the  pulse  as  the  sunshine  and  rains  may  vary  a 
corn  crop  in  the  State  that  sometimes  exceeds  350,000,000  bushels,  at 
which  time  there  are  usually  not  enough  railroad  cars  available  to  carry 
away  the  product.  We  saw  cornstalks  growing  to  great  height,  some 
reaching  20  feet  to  the  surmounting  tassel,  while  it  required  a  tall  man 
on  tip-toe  to  touch  the  ears.  A  two-pound  ear  is  customary  weight, 
while  30  to  35  ears  will  measure  a  bushel.  Our  train  carried  us  through 
cornfields  which  spread  out  on  both  sides  of  the  track  as  far  as  the  eye 
could  scan  the  horizon.  Leaving  Topeka  en  route  to  Lawrence,  the 
train  passed  historic  Lecompton,  the  early  territorial  capital  of  Kansas 
• — once  the  strenuous  pro-slavery  stronghold,  today  a  quiet  country 
village. 

It  is  interesting  to  note  and  study  human  nature  at  close  range. 
Types  differ  in  states.  Despite  modern  artificialities,  we  remain  strik- 
ingly the  children  of  Mother  Earth  and  easily  and  naturally  follow  her 
mothership  in  lineaments,  spirit  and  general  attitude  toward  the  world 
around  us.  Where  the  earth  loam  is  black  and  rich,  and  the  field* 
smile  back  a  prosperous  answer  to  the  plowshare,  the  human  product 
shows  a  ready  assurance,  a  self-reliance  and  courage,  that  is  in  igno- 
rance almost  a  swagger,  but  under  higher  mental  culture  becomes  the 
resonant  answer  of  a  nation's  best  and  truest  manhood  and  woman- 
hood. 

At  the  Kansas  stations,  that  lay  as  railway  sluices  through  which 
rich  and  generous  crops  are  poured  into  the  lap  of  the  world,  even  the 
boys  who  peddled  apples  or  sold  newspapers  had  an  air  of  satisfied 
American  assurance  in  their  dickerings.  They  had  drawn  their  inde- 
pendence and  sturdiness  from  that  loam,  and  had  drawn  the  scent  of 
ripening  and  prosperous  harvests  through  their  nostrils  into  their  blood, 
and  so  knew  only  courage  and  fearless  consciousness.  In  the  poor 
places  and  at  the  curb  side  in  the  big  cities  humanity  shrivels  percep- 
tibly. In  the  dull  gray  of  the  surroundings  of  cropless  lands  and  "razor 
back"  hogs  the  children  slink  away  from  the  stranger's  glance,  and  their 
forbears  look  at  you  askance  from  under  slouch  hats.  We  saw  little 


300        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

of  this  in  our  spin  across  the  country,  but  enough  of  it  to  beget  a  con- 
trast that  has  lessons  as  old  as  our  earthly  humanity. 

Lawrence,  whose  very  name  for  years  called  to  mind  the  horrors 
of  the  Quantrell  raid  and  the  massacre  of  its  defenseless  citizens,  is 
now  the  most  flourishing  of  peaceful  towns  and  is  the  seat  of  the  Uni- 
versity of  Kansas  and  of  Haskell  Institute,  a  noteworthy  school  for 
Indians. 

The  vast  plains,  whereon  the  Indian,  antelope  and  buffalo  roamed 
supreme  are  now  the  scenes  of  important  cities  and  are  now  counted  as 
the  second  most  important  agricultural  area  in  the  country.  Not  far 
from  Lawrence,  is  St.  Joseph,  Mo.,  Atchison,  Leavenworth  and  Kansas 
City.  St.  Joseph  with  its  population  of  60,000,  is  a  most  important 
railroad  center,  has  important  stock  yards  and  many  factories;  Atchi- 
son, with  20,000  population,  is  the  point  where  the  Atchison  railway 
system  formerly  had  its  initial  point,  though  it  now  begins  its  western 
run  from  Chicago;  Leavenworth  is  a  city  of  25,000  which  has  grown 
at  the  site  of  Fort  Leavenworth,  one  of  the  most  important  military 
posts  in  the  frontier  days. 

Night  came  on  as  we  continued  our  ride  to  Kansas  City.  Trie 
earth  was  as  the  heart  of  a  golden  cup.  The  track  clove  the  ripe  wheat 
and  corn  as  a  lance  piercing  the  glowing  embers  of  the  sunset.  Other 
light  there  was  none,  for  the  September  day  was  over ;  but  in  the  gol- 
den wheat  reflecting  against  the  profound  azure  of  the  sky  its  warm 
memory  lingered.  Across  the  tranquil  fields  we  swept,  and  as  the 
heads  of  the  golden  stalks  of  grain  drooped  in  their  cradle  of  green  we 
were  gradually  moved  to  sympathetic  action  and  sought  our  berths. 


CHAPTER  XXXII. 

UESDAY  morning,  September  20,  found  us  in  Kansas  City.    We 
were  greeted  at  the  station  by  a  committee  of  Sir  Knights  who 
gave  us  a  rousing  reception.     Sir  J.  G.  Rode,  of  Kansas  City, 
one  of  the  receiving  delegation  and  one  of  the  older  members  of 
that  party,  was  exceptionally  solicitous  for  our  welfare. 

After  formally  extending  our  thanks  to  the  management  of  the 
Santa  Fe  railroad,  whose  terminal  is  in  Kansas  City,  and  expressing 
our  gratitude  to  the  employees  of  that  system  for  their  kindnesses,  we 
were  escorted  to  the  Midland  Hotel.  Our  appreciation  of  the  courteous 
treatment  accorded  us  by  the  officials  and  employees  of  the  Santa  Fe 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        301 

was  evidenced  by  the  many  expressions  of  regret  that  the  delightful 
ride  had  terminated. 

We  had  not  felt  so  much  at  home  for  a  long  time  as  we  did  when 
we  "raised  the  hill"  and  viewed  the  city  for  the  first  time.  In  some  re- 
spects the  city  resembled  Pittsburgh,  although  it  did  not  have  our  sky- 
scrapers. The  stirring  business  look  of  the  thoroughfares,  the  fast 
walkers  and  a  driving  and  smothering  cloud  of  smoke  was  so  like  a 
message  from  our  own  dear,  native  city,  that  we  could  hardly  refrain 
from  shedding  a  few  grateful  tears  and  execrations  in  the  old  time- 
honored,  American  way.  We  saw  only  Pittsburgh.  Look  up  street 
or  down,  we  saw  nothing  but  Liberty  Avenue  and  the  Union  Station 
of  old. 

Following  luncheon,  we  made  a  tour  of  the  city  by  means  of  the 
street  cars.  There  is  an  institution  in  Kansas  City  which  the  Beef 
Trust  did  not  originate.  That  is  the  street  cars.  They  are  on  parade 
all  day  long  and  form  a  varied-colored  light  procession  at  night.  We 
were  informed  that  we  could  "go  anywhere"  in  the  Kansas  City  street 
cars  and  we  tried  it. 

Previously  we  had  been  informed  that  at  a  certain  point  in  the 
city  there  was  a  highly  interesting  collection  of  antiquities,  heirlooms, 
relics  and  second-hand  clothing — worn  by  distinguished  pioneers.  We 
learned  that  we  could  find  fragments  of  homes  that  were  broken  up 
by  Indian  raids,  and  an  old  chair  that  had  been  the  first  "seat  of  justice." 
There  were  said  to  be  scores  of  things  which  had  made  a  great  im- 
pression upon  the  minds  of  the  early  settlers,  such  as  tomahawks,  flint- 
lock guns  and  Indian  war  clubs.  All  these,  as  well  as  other  ancient 
objects  of  interest,  were  in  this  collection  which  we  started  out  to  seek. 

As  we  desired  to  see  all  the  sights,  we  decided  to  board  a  "Seeing 
Kansas  City  Car,"  (no  relation  to  the  "Seeing  Denver"  poverty-stricken 
family.)  Johnston  went  straight  to  the  furthermost  end  of  the  car 
and  sat  down  beside  a  young  lady,  whom  he  said  filled  the  whole  car 
with  sunshine.  Jqhnston  was  so  happy  that  he  gave  the  conductor 
50  cents  and  told  him  to  keep  the  change.  Soon  a  colored  woman  of 
prodigious  weight  entered  the  car  and  sought  the  same  location  as 
occupied  by  Johnston  and  his  handsome  neighbor.  She  aimed  to  wedge 
herself  between  the  two,  "but  ah,"  said  Johnston  to  himself,  "I  will 
fool  thee."  So  he  moved  closer  to  the  pretty  girl.  Meanwhile  the 
stout,  colored  party  had  backed  up  to  the  place  of  her  selection,  and 
where  Johnston  had  hastily  decided  to  place  himself.  As  the  corpulent 
woman  had  sighed  a  breath  of  relief  and  lowered  herself,  with  the 
assistance  of  a  sudden  lurch  on  the  part  of  the  car,  there  was  a  tragic 
collision  as  she  fell  into  Johnston's  lap.  She  nestled  in  his  bosom  like 
a  tired  baby  elephant.  To  say  that  he  was  crushed  in  spirit,  body  and 
mind  and  without  breath  to  make  an  official  statement,  is  putting  the 


302        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

case  mildly.  He  admitted  that  she  was  the  heaviest  woman  that  he 
had  ever  held,  and  that  he  was  "completely  smitten"  by  her.  She 
was  a  Laplander  in  the  truest  sense  of  the  term. 

Our  tour  around  the  city  and  through  the  suburbs  was  rife  with 
interest.  We  found  the  city  to  be  the  focus  of  heavy  cattle  and  general 
railroad  traffic,  with  17  different  railroads  converging  in  the  city.  With 
the  exception  of  St.  Louis,  it  is  the  largest  city  in  Missouri,  and  few 
communities  have  grown  great  so  rapidly.  It  was  one  of  the  first 
cities  to  adopt  electric  lights,  cable  and  elevated  roads.  Its  fire  de- 
partment had  always  been  reputed  as  being  among  the  very  best  in 
the  country.  It  has  an  immense  distributing  trade  throughout  Kansas 
and  the  Southwest.  Kansas  City  in  Kansas,  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  Kansas  (or  Kaw)  River,  is  virtually  a  part  of  the  same  city  as 
to  business  interests. 

It  is  here  that  the  Kansas  River  flows  into  the  Missouri,  cutting 
in  two  this  twin  city,  whose  growth  has  only  been  attained  since  the 
Civil  War,  with  the  aid  of  a  prodigious  development  of  the  railways. 
Three  fine  bridges  join  the  cities,  both  having  a  total  population  of  about 
225,000,  the  largest  being  Kansas  City  in  Missouri  on  the  southern 
river  bank. 

Next  to  Chicago,  Kansas  City  has  the  largest  stock  yards  and  pack- 
ing house  plants  in  the  country,  and  does  an  enormous  trade  in  cattle, 
dressed  meats  and  grain,  many  railroads  radiating  in  all  directions. 
The  site  was  originally  the  home  of  the  Wyandotte  Indians,  who  came 
from  Ohio  in  1843,  and  whose  name  the  town  bore  previous  to  the 
Civil  War. 

The  Missouri  River  traverses  the  entire  state  of  Missouri  in  a 
winding,  turbid  current  from  west  to  east.  It  passes  Jefferson  City, 
the  state  capital,  which  has  a  population  of  8,000  and  just  below  re- 
ceives the  Osage  River  coming  up  from  the  southwest.  At  Chilli- 
cothe  to  the  northwest,  is  buried  Nelson  Kneiss,  who  composed  the 
music  for  Thomas  Dunn  English's  popular  ballad,  "Ben  Bolt;"  and 
in  Florida  to  the  northeast  was  born  in  November  1835,  Samuel  L. 
Clemens,  the  humorist,  better  known  as  "Mark  Twain."  Captain  Sel- 
lers, who  furnished  river  news  to  the  New  Orleans  Picayune,  had  used 
this  nom-de-plume,  and,  dying  in  1863,  Clemens  adopted  it.  Twenty 
miles  above  St.  Louis  the  Missouri  flows  into  the  Mississippi,  con- 
tributing the  greater  volume  of  water  to  the  joint  stream.  The  clear 
Mississippi  waters,  pushed  over  to  the  eastern  bank,  refuse  for  a  long 
distance  below  to  mingle  with  the  turbid  flow  of  the  Missouri. 

The  Kansas  side  of  the  river  is  being  more  and  more  famed  for 
its  rich  oil  fields,  and  this  afforded  special  interest  to  Sir  Knight  Reel, 
lola,  Allen  county,  is  the  northeastern  point  of  the  Kansas  oil  and  gas 
belt,  and  is  south  and  slightly  west  of  Kansas  City.  Allen  and  the 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        303 

two  adjoining  counties,  Woodson  and  Greenwood,  constitute  the  gen- 
eral northern  boundary  of  the  oil  and  gas  region  which  includes  nine 
counties,  or  4,500  square  miles.  The  region  is  rivaling  Northwestern 
Pennsylvania  in  the  palmiest  days  of  the  great  oil  excitement,  and  the 
state  is  enjoying  an  era  of  remarkable  prosperity. 

Our  tour  of  two  hours  about  the  streets  of  Kansas  City  had  brought 
to  our  attention  the  fact  that  all  the  negroes  in  the  world  are  not  colo- 
nized on  Wylie  Avenue,  Pittsburgh. 

As  we  sauntered  towards  the  hotel,  we  found  a  number  of  pub- 
lic entertainers  located  on  prominent  corners  of  the  principal  thorough- 
fares. Sirs  Bader  and  Coombs,  who  liked  the  drama,  became  fascinated 
with  a  "Punch  and  Judy"  show,  whose  greater  interest  lay  in  guessing 
which  of  the  mutilated  figures  was  "Judy"  and  which  was  "Punch" — 
both  having  been  punched  into  unrecognizable  shape.  Sirs  Coombs  and 
Bader,  however,  were  deeply  impressed  by  the  performance  and  when 
"Punch"  had  finally  completed  the  massacre  of  "Judy"  and  her  whole 
family,  they  were  visibly  touched — for  a  nickel  each  by  the  seedy  ma- 
nipualtor. 

Further  down  the  street,  Sir  Craig  enticed  Sirs  Baumann,  Bader 
and  McFarland  into  a  crowd  that  had  gathered  about  a  man  widely 
gesticulating  and  chattering  over  a  dry  goods  box,  which  was 
covered  with  a  horse  blanket.  Frequently  he  would  bend  down  and 
take  hold  of  the  blanket  with  the  extreme  tips  of  his  fingers,  as  if  to 
show  that  there  was  no  deception — chattering  away  all  the  time — but 
just  as  they  were  expecting  to  witness  a  wonderful  feat  of  prestidigitation, 
he  would  let  go  of  the  blanket  and  rise  to  further  explain.  Even- 
tually he  uncovered  the  box  to  get  out  a  small  can  containing  liquid, 
and  held  it  out  for  public  inspection  as  a  further  evidence  of  good 
faith  and  to  assure  the  audience  that  he  was  taking  no  advantages. 
Meanwhile  his  chatter  became  more  excited  than  ever.  Sir  Craig  ex- 
claimed: "Watch  him  do  the  fire  act.  He  is  going  to  set  fire  to  it 
and  swallow  the  liquid."  Everyone  became  greatly  wrought  up  and 
interested,  and  brought  forth  a  penny,  ready  to  compensate  the  per- 
former, if  he  survived.  But  just  as  excitement  was  at  its  height,  and 
as  Sir  Bader  had  borrowed  a  cent  from  Sir  Craig,  the  performer  ( ?) 
ended  his  intensely  interesting  entertainment  by  holding  the  liquid  aloft 
and  with  a  wild  exultation,  as  if  achieving  miracles,  began  removing 
stains  from  an  old  coat.  When  the  performance  had  taken  this  con- 
clusion Sir  Craig's  invited  guests  turned  upon  him  and  gave  voice  to  ex- 
pressions which  were  anything  but  grateful  for  his  invitation.  Har- 
mony was  restored  after  Sir  Craig  had  agreed  to  buy  a  glass  of  pink 
lemonade  for  each  Sir  Knight. 

As  a  means  of  forgetfulness,  someone  suggested  billiards  and  the 
sign  of  a  billiard-room  was  sighted  down  a  side  street.  It  was  a  sub- 


304        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

way  affair,  located  in  the  cellar  of  a  grocery  store.  As  soon  as  the 
proprietor  saw  business  coming  in  the  front  door  he  turned  on  both  gas 
lights.  Little  time  was  consumed  in  selecting  cues,  as  but  three  in 
the  place  had  tips  on  them.  Only  one  of  these  did  not  have  a  double 
warp  in  it,  so  it  was  decided  to  pass  it  from  player  to  player.  Fortun- 
ately it  was  a  short  cue,  for  had  it  been  longer  the  curve  in  it  would 
have  brought  both  ends  together. 

The  table  might  have  been  level  enough  if  the  brick,  which  was 
holding  up  one  wobbling  leg,  had  not  been  so  thick  as  to  make  one 
corner  of  the  table  higher  than  the  others.  Sir  Pears  was  appointed 
official  scorer,  and  really  had  the  easiest  task.  The  court  plaster,  which 
had  been  used  in  patching  the  cloth,  interfered  somewhat  with  the 
destination  of  the  balls,  which  in  color  and  shape  resembled  Easter 
eggs.  If  the  balls  had  been  larger  they  might  not  have  stuck  under 
the  cushions  each  time  they  struck  one.  As  a  matter  of  fact,  it  was 
disrespectful  to  garb  the  cushions  in  green.  They  should  have  worn 
deep  mourning,  for  every  cushion  had  long  since  been  "dead."  How- 
ever, some  of  the  most  unexpected  shots  were  executed.  Sir  Oscar 
tried  an  anchor  shot  and  executed  a  brilliant  carom  on  both  gas  lights. 
Sir  Staiger  showed  to  best  advantage  when  he  shot  uphill  on  the  table, 
while  Sir  Biddle  broke  one  of  the  rules  with  the  cue  ball  (this  rule 
was  painted  on  a  glass  globe.)  About  twenty  minutes  after  the  game 
started,  the  proprietor  brought  the  announcement  that  the  "hour  is  up." 
No  one  complained.  The  score  showed  that  Sir  Oscar  had  nearly 
made  a  point. 

Meanwhile,  some  members  of  our  party  visited  the  stock  exchange 
and  became  deeply  interested  in  the  open  debate,  which  was  going  on 
between  a  hundred  or  more  of  the  brokers.  Sir  Reel  sauntered  over 
to  watch  the  maneuvers  of  a  crowd  of  excited  men,  when  some  stranger 
asked  him  if  he  was  looking  for  a  "buy."  Sir  Reel  inquired  if  the 
election  returns  were  coming  in  and  was  informed  that  it  was  merely 
a  discussion  in  the  "wheat  pit."  He  told  the  stranger  he  wouldn't  mind 
taking  home  some  wheat  as  a  souvenir  but  did  not  want  any  with 
pits.  At  this  point  the  stranger  seemed  to  have  forgotten  something, 
and  walked  off  with  a  pained  look. 

Approaching  a  group  gathered  about  a  sign  reading  "Corn,"  Sir 
Reel  entered  into  conversation  with  a  sympathetic  looking  individual 
who  declared  he  had  been  "cornered."  Sir  Reel  wanted  to  know  how 
corn  cornered,  and  asked  his  new  acquaintance  where  he  could  get  a 
bag  or  two  of  pop-corn  as  a  souvenir.  The  stranger  announced  that 
he  could  let  him  have  100,000  bushels  "of  July"  if  he  could  get  a  friend 
on  the  exchange  to  make  the  deal.  "I've  taken  all  my  July  in  dates," 
answered  Sir  Reel,  "but  if  you  can  let  me  have  about  a  dozen  ears  of 
good,  tender  corn,  I  think  we  could  strike  a  deal  on  a  cash  basis." 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        305 

This  seemed  to  discourage  the  stranger  from  any  further  effort  towards 
trading,  and  he  also  walked  away.  Sir  Reel,  discouraged  because  of 
the  uncivil  treatment  received,  left  the  exchange. 

Following  dinner,  we  slowly  wended  our  way  to  the  station.  Here 
a  memorable  demonstration  took  place.  Commanderies  were  coming 
and  going,  and  scene's  of  joviality  and  good  cheer  prevailed.  Allen- 
town  Commandery  led  in  the  singing  of  that  melodious  and  impressive 
air :  "Why  in  the  world  don't  you  work."  We  immediately  "caught  on," 
and  have  been  singing  it  ever  since.  A  parting  handshake  all  around, 
a  rapid-fire  exchange  of  good-byes,  and  we  boarded  our  "Special"  for 
St.  Louis  and  the  World's  Fair,  over  the  Wabash  railroad. 

Shortly  after  leaving  Kansas  City  it  became  evident  that  a  council 
of  war  was  in  progress  in  the  smoker  of  the  "stag"  coach.  Some  of  the 
diplomats  were  seen  moving  in  and  out,  and  admission  was  restricted 
to  but  a  few.  Later  developments  proved  that  a  conference  was  being 
held,  and  presentation  speeches  were  being  prepared  in  connection  with 
gifts  of  appreciation,  which  were  to  be  bestowed  upon  the  members 
of  the  committee  who  had  the  transcontinental  tour  in  charge. 

Sirs  William  G.  Lee,  Edward  Burry  and  William  A.  Aeberli,  who 
had  been  appointed  to  make  the  presentation  speeches,  were  active  with 
pencil  and  paper.  Finally,  when  they  began  to  read  their  compositions 
to  one  another,  it  developed  that  each  had  selected  the  same  senti- 
ments upon  which  to  base  their  outbursts  of  eloquence.  An  ineffectual 
effort  was  made  to  trade  off  a  sentiment  or  two,  in  order  that  there 
might  be  little  duplication,  but  finally,  when  a  deadlock  was  certain,  all 
the  prepared  speeches  were  destroyed,  and  extemporaneous  efforts  were 
decided  upon.  Then  they  drew  lots  to  see  who  should  speak  first,  be- 
cause the  first  man  would,  of  course,  have  all  the  advantage,  and  leave 
the  other  speakers  to  repeat. 

The  "stag"  coach  was  then  cleared  for  action.  The  berths,  which 
had  been  lowered  for  the  night,  were  ordered  "put  up"  and  everyone 
was  invited  into  the  "stag"  coach.  Sirs  Harry  W.  Lowrie,  chairman; 
Oscar  Schulze  and  Herman  Flechsig,  were  the  members  of  the  com- 
mittee who  had  the  tour  in  charge  and  to  whom  we  sought  to  show  our 
appreciation. 

The  speech  makers,  on  behalf  of  the  party,  then  bestowed  upon 
each  of  the  committeemen  a  magnificent  token,  the  intrinsic  value  of 
which,  however,  did  not  measure  up  to  the  smallest  conceivable  fraction 
of  our  sincere  appreciation  of  their  arduous  labors  and  thoughtfulness 
for  the  welfare  of  the  party.  In  a  few  well-chosen  words  these  gifts 
were  presented,  and  were  accepted  with  profuse  thanks  by  the  surprised 
recipients,  Sir  Oscar  Schulze  rising  to  eloquent  heights  in  his  speech 
of  acceptance. 
(20) 


306        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

It  can  be  said  in  all  truth,  that  a  souvenir  of  appreciation  was  never 
more  worthily  bestowed.  From  the  time  the  train  left  Allegheny  until 
it  returned  several  weeks  later,  this  committee  was  engaged  continually 
in  making  provision  for  the  comfort  and  welfare  of  every  member  of 
the  large  party.  Commissary  supplies,  hotel  arrangements  and  car- 
riages, when  necessary,  transfer  of  baggage,  distribution  of  mail,  yea, 
hundreds  of  details  were  left  safely  in  their  hands.  Sirs  Lowrie, 
Schulze  and  Flechsig  were  in  every  way  worthy  and  qualified  to  lead 
a  body  bearing  the  good  name  of  Allegheny  Commandery,  No.  35. 

Following  the  presentations,  a  march  was  made  upon  the  com- 
missary car  where  festivities  were  begun  that  lasted  until  night  had 
faded  into  the  small  hours  of  morning.  The  towering  flag  of  the  Ad- 
ministration Building  of  the  St.  Louis  Fair  was  seen  at  the  break  of 
morn  when  the  Sir  Knights  bid  each  other  "good  night." 


CHAPTER  XXXIII. 

UR  "Special"  came  to  a  stop  in  St.  Louis  at  the  very  gateway 
to  the  Fair  grounds,  arriving  at  the  World's  Fair  terminal  of 
the  Wabash  system.  This  terminal  was  made  possible  because 
the  Wabash  tracks  pierce  Forest  Park,  which  was  not  developed 
until  after  the  railroad  had  secured  its  right  of  way. 

As  our  train  entered  the  terminal  we  were  given  a  "gentle  reminder" 
that  the  magnificent  palatial  train  of  Pittsburgh  Commandery,  No.  I 
was  also  riding  the  rails.  They  were  backing  into  the  station  behind 
us,  and  struck  our  "Special"  with  a  bump  that  upset  a  lo-gallon  can 
of  coffee  in  the  commissary  car,  almost  causing  Johnston  to  float.  How 
about  it  Fraters?  Wouldn't  it  jar  you  to  be  bumped  by  a  14-car  train? 
If  you  were  racing  to  the  Fair  against  us,  it  was  unfair  to  try  to  pass 
us  on  the  same  track. 

Arriving  at  St.  Louis  it  was  decided  to  make  a  change  In  the  itiner- 
ary, which  had  previously  been  carried  out  to  the  letter.  The  original 
schedule  provided  for  our  "Special"  to  leave  St.  Louis  that  night,  but 
through  special  concessions  from  the  railroads,  we  were  given  per- 
mission to  side-track  our  train  at  the  Wabash  terminal.  Here  it  re- 
mained for  four  days  or  until  Saturday  night,  September  24. 

One  of  the  most  pleasing  incidents  of  our  tour  occurred  as  we  stepped 
from  the  train.  There  stood  a  delegation  of  members  from  our  Com- 
mandery who  had  not  seen  us  for  weeks,  ready  to  give  us  the  hand  of 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        307 

true  welcome.  We  were  greeted  by  Sir  William  Sanders  Brown  with 
that  dear,  congenial  and  ever-present  smile ;  Sir  F.  G.  Freeman,  also 
beaming  with  sunshine,  hands  in  the  air,  about  to  explode  with  delight 
in  an  effort,  as  usual,  to  say  a  thousand  things  in  a  single  sentence ;  Sir 
W.  H.  Oliver,  with  that  merry  twinkle  in  his  eye,  as  big  and  whole- 
souled  as  he  is,  and  every  inch  a  gentleman.  Sir  John  A.  Shoemaker, 
that  jovial,  genial,  affable  and  ever  happy  comrade,  was  also  among 
those  to  greet  us,  as  were  many  others  who  joined  in  the  merry  and 
unexpected  welcome.  All  worthy  citizens,  honorable  gentlemen,  cherished 
by  all  that  know  them,  and  but  a  few  of  the  shining  lights  of  our 
bright  constellation  that  wandered  from  their  sphere  and  dropped  in 
to  greet  us — bless  your  hearts — thank  you! 

Then  for  the  big  show:  Call  it  the  Louisiana  Purchase  Expo- 
sition, the  Universal  Exposition,  the  St.  Louis  Exposition  or  the  World's 
Fair — it  was  known  by  all  these  names — but  what's  in  a  name,  a  fair 
with  another  name  is  just  as  fair. 

It  is  not  the  writer's  intention  to  attempt  a  description  of  what  we 
saw,  or  to  set  forth  the  numerous  incidents  that  transpired  while  in 
St.  Louis.  Volumes  would  be  required  to  chronicle  everything — even 
if  restricted  to  things  of  interest.  Only  a  brief  synopsis  of  the  "Big 
Show"  will  be  attempted. 

The  exposition  was  well  defined  as  "an  encyclopedia  of  society" 
for  it  represented  a  complete  classification  of  society's  words  and  works, 
compact  and  indexed,  and  available  for  ready  reference.  Again,  it  was 
a  parliament  and  federation  of  mankind,  welded  without  political  sub- 
tleties, but  created  by  civilization's  own  advancement  in  the  growing 
appreciation  of  the  brotherhood  of  man.  The  Republics  of  the  New 
World,  the  monarchies  of  the  Far  East,  the  sovereignties  of  sturdy  Eu- 
rope, the  barbarous  tribes  of  Africa,  the  happy  children  of  Australia — 
all  joined  and  met  in  fraternal  fellowship  to  show  the  world  the  products 
of  their  brain  and  brawn.  Each  nation  had  something,  at  least,  to 
reveal  to  the  other.  None  shielded  itself  under  the  mantle  of  self- 
conceit  to  dream  of  sublime  superiority. 

It  was  meet  that  the  United  States,  in  whose  veins  flows  the  blood 
of  all  nations,  should  be  the  meeting  ground  for  the  wanderers  from 
distant  shores.  It  is  here  that  the  Irishman  has  found  Home  Rule; 
that  the  Frenchman  has  secured  his  ideal  of  liberty;  that  the  English- 
man has  found  a  greater  England;  that  the  Teuton  has  sought  repose 
in  a  new  fatherland.  Since  the  earliest  Biblical  times  when  the  Lord 
drifted  the  peoples  of  the  earth  apart  by  putting  strange  language  in 
their  lips,  have  they  traversed  the  earth,  only  to  be  called  together 
again  in  this  happy  land  under  the  sacred  flag  that  is  an  emblem  of 
life,  liberty,  and  the  pursuit  of  happiness. 

As  one  studied  the  system  employed  in  the  arrangement  of  ex- 


308        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

hibits  from  every  clime,  and  learned  of  the  established  classification,  its 
appropriateness  left  a  marked  impression.  The  exposition  was  divided 
into  16  departments,  144  groups  and  807  classes.  The  materialization 
presented  a  sequential  synopsis  of  man's  development  from  age  to  age, 
with  a  final  presentation  of  his  achievements  in  the  present  day. 

At  the  head  of  the  classification  was  placed  Education — through 
which  man  enters  social  life.  Second,  came  Art — showing  the  con- 
dition of  his  culture  and  development.  Liberal  Arts  and  Applied 
Sciences  were  placed  third,  to  indicate  the  result  of  education  and  cul- 
ture, illustrating  his  tastes  and  demonstrating  his  inventive  genius. 

The  raw  material  departments — Agriculture,  Horticulture,  Mining 
and  Forestry — tended  to  show  how  man  conserves  the  forces  of  nature 
to  his  own  use.  The  department  of  Manufactures  showed  what  he  ac- 
complished with  the  raw  material;  the  department  of  Machinery  ex- 
hibited the  tools  employed,  while  the  department  of  Transportation 
showed  how  he  overcame  distances  and  secured  success  in  all  parts  of 
the  world.  The  department  of  Electricity  indicated  the  forces  he  dis- 
covered and  utilized  to  convey  power  and  intelligence,  and  so  on  through 
the  various  departments  until  Anthropology  was  reached,  where  man 
studies  man,  and  the  department  of  Physical  Culture  in  which  man, 
his  intelligence  having  reached  a  superior  point  is  able  to  treat  himself, 
realizing  that  intellectual  and  moral  constitutions  require  a  sound  physi- 
cal body  to  hold  them  properly.  Education  was  the  keynote  and  corner- 
stone of  the  exposition. 

But  who  can  describe  the  wonderful  exhibits  from  all  lands  which 
were  made  under  these  classifications?  It  would  be  a  task  that  would 
recognize  no  master.  For  pleasure,  instruction  and  entertainment,  one 
sauntered  down  the  famous  Pike,  where  a  conglomeration  of  villages 
from  all  corners  of  the  earth  were  transplanted  along  an  avenue  one 
mile  long,  and  blended  into  a  medley  of  national  and  international  amuse- 
ments. The  tongues  of  countless  nations  and  sects  rippled  forth  from 
the  general  welcome  and  invitation.  The  Pike  rang  with  gaiety,  life 
and  beauty.  Its  attractions  were  classified  as  geographical,  historical, 
scientific  and  illusory,  or  scenic.  To  travel  over  this  mile  of  quaint 
settlements  was  like  making  a  tour  of  the  world — stopping  only  at 
the  most  unusual  and  unconventional  localities. 

Forest  Park,  where  the  exhibition  was  held,  embraced  1,250  acres, 
more  than  twice  as  many  as  Jackson  Park,  of  Chicago  Fair  fame. 
There  were  1,500  separate  buildings  erected,  50  foreign  countries  and 
45  states  and  territories  being  represented.  The  cost  of  the  exhibition 
exceeded  $50,000,000.  Each  type  of  the  earth's  inhabitants  was  repre- 
sented in  native  costume,  and  in  most  cases  found  shelter  in  structures 
of  native  architecture. 

The   main   group   of   buildings,   which   were   in   the   northeastern 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        309 

portion  of  the  grounds,  included  12  great  structures  in  such  symmetrical 
arrangement  as  to  represent  an  open  fan — the  avenues  corresponding 
to  the  ribs  in  the  fan.  Eight  of  these  palaces  were  upon  a  level  60  feet 
below  the  others,  offering  a  beautiful  picture  as  the  visitor  strolled  the 
center  avenue. 

In  the  distance,  a  half-mile  away,  rose  the  beautiful  Hall  of  Festi- 
vals, the  central  jewel  of  the  beautiful  architectural  coronet.  The  sides 
of  the  coronet  stretched  in  graceful  curves  from  Festival  Hall,  re- 
sembling a  colonade,  except  that  square  pylons  alternated  with  pairs 
of  columns  forming  14  sections,  in  front  of  which,  upon  the  terrace, 
were  14  great  sculptured  figures  representing  in  allegory,  the  14  states 
and  territories  carved  from  the  Louisiana  Purchase. 

Three  great  cascades,  the  largest  artificial  creations  made  up  to 
that  time,  poured  down  the  slope  from  the  center  and  the  two  sides,  the 
slopes  being  gardens,  richly  adorned  with  flowers,  shrubs  and  archi- 
tectural and  sculptural  devices. 

Festival  Hall  covered  two  acres,  and  from  it  and  its  terraces  and 
pavilions,  a  commanding  view  of  the  principal  buildings  could  be  ob- 
tained. On  the  same  plateau,  beyond  Festival  Hall,  were  the  three 
great  palaces  of  Art.  These  buildings  contained  136  galleries,  the 
central  building,  a  permanent  structure,  being  the  international  hall  of 
sculpture. 

The  Government  building  stood  apart  from  the  main  group  upon 
another  plateau,  east  of  the  Art  buildings.  It  covered  an  immense  area, 
being  twice  the  length  of  the  great  Treasury  Building  in  Washington. 
The  eye  of  the  visitor  was  everywhere  charmed  by  the  magnifictent 
landscape  effects.  Falls  roared,  triumphant  cascades  sang,  and  foun- 
tains spouted  in  this  fairyland. 

The  exhibits  were  characterized  by  life,  color,  motion  and  variety, 
and  articles  were  exhibited,  not  alone  as  they  are,  but  in  juxtaposition 
with  illustrations  of  their  evolution.  Processes  of  manufacture  were 
also  vividly  portrayed,  and  the  keynote  of  the  exposition — education — 
was  ever  foremost. 

At  night,  when  electricity  be  jeweled  the  scene,  the  effect  was  most 
bewildering.  In  the  creation  of  the  picture  every  builder's  art  had  a 
share.  The  sculptor,  the  architect,  the  landscape  gardener,  the  elec- 
trician who  controlled  a  million  bulbs — all  played  prominent  parts  in 
the  presentation  of  the  wonderful  night  scene.  The  mechanical  and 
electrical  bureau  worked  out  a  scheme  of  illumination  that  produced 
results  never  before  realized  in  spectacular  magnificence.  While  the 
buildings  were  outlined  in  fire  for  night  view  by  means  of  the  festive 
shimmer  of  countless  filaments,  the  picture  was  accentuated  by  the 
piercing  rays  of  arc  lamps  at  salient  points  upon  all  the  principal 
structures. 


310        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

Every  moment  spent  in  St.  Louis  was  judiciously  applied.  Every 
night  took  us  to  bed  thoroughly  tired,  and  it  was  rarely  that  the  sun 
rose  before  us.  The  magnificent  and  well-equipped  Pennsylvania  State 
building  had  a  special  fascination  for  us,  inasmuch  that  it  represented 
home,  and  seemed  more  like  it  than  any  other  building  on  the  grounds. 

It  would  have  required  weeks,  yea  months,  in  that  monstrous  en- 
closure to  get  an  intelligent  idea  of  the  collection  of  assembled  world's 
people,  their  products,  apparel,  art,  architecture,  modes,  customs,  music, 
agriculture  and  manufacture.  The  moving  masses  of  people  were  in 
themselves  interesting  exhibits — coming  as  they  did  from  all  quarters 
of  the  globe.  The  four  days  spent  at  the  Fair  found  no  room  for 
idleness,  and  as  the  final  hours  reached  their  termination  we  turned 
towards  "home"  (the  "Special"  on  the  siding)  with  the  satisfaction 
that  we  had  seen  all  that  human  eye  could  absorb  in  so  brief  a  time. 

Our  departure  from  St.  Louis  on  the  evening  of  Saturday,  Sep- 
tember 24,  was  not  without  reluctance,  for  some  dear  members  of  our 
"big  happy  family"  bade  us  farewell,  because  ot  their  plans  to  spend 
more  time  at  the  Fair.  However,  with  a  hurried  exchange  of  best 
wishes  with  those  who  were  to  stay  behind,  and  with  cheers,  laughter 
and  even  a  tear  or  two,  we  left  St.  Louis  and  the  Fair,  with  our  faces 
turned  homeward  on  the  last  stretch  of  our  pilgrimage.  But  there  were 
some  whom  we  had  missed  during  the  leave-taking — Sir  Oscar  Schultz, 
family  and  party. 

We  learned  later,  that  he  had  rushed  to  the  Wabash  terminal  after 
we  had  departed.  Knowing  that  we  were  compelled  to  pass  through 
the  Union  Station  (five  or  six  miles  distant)  before  leaving  the  city, 
Sir  Oscar  hurriedly  engaged  an  automobile,  offered  the  chauffeur  special 
inducement  to  reach  the  Union  Station  as  quickly  as  possible.  Every 
speed  ordinance  was  broken  as  the  automobile  made  its  wild  dash  for 
the  station.  But,  alas,  it  was  to  no  avail.  The  last  car  on  our  train 
was  rapidly  passing  out  of  sight  when  the  chauffeur  brought  his  passen- 
gers up  to  the  station.  The  race  had  been  run  and  the  defeat  had  been 
an  honorable  one.  Sadly  disappointed,  Sir  Oscar  wired  a  word  of  fare- 
well and  Godspeed  to  his  comrades  aboard  the  train,  and  told  of  his 
inability  to  catch  up  with  the  "Special." 

Soon  after  leaving  St.  Louis  the  commissary  car  was  pressed  into 
service  and  here,  with  light  and  joyous  hearts,  we  sang  far  into  the 
night.  The  singing  began  and  continued  for  a  time,  in  rhythm,  to  the 
puff,  puff,  puff  of  the  engine,  which  caused  us  to  swell  our  voices  to 
a  mighty  anthem  of  joy,  as  voice  after  voice  broke  forth  in  mighty 
chorus,  realizing  that  with  each  revolution  of  the  ponderous  driving- 
wheels  of  the  engine  we  were  nearing  the  dear  ones  who  were  anxiously 
awaiting  the  pilgrims'  return.  Every  member  of  the  party  was  happy, 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        311 

all  were  well,  and  notwithstanding  the  unalloyed  enjoyment  of  the  tour, 
all  were  anxious  to  again  be  under  the  benignant  skies  of  our  own  dear 
city. 

There  was  a  cheering  influence  in  the  air  and  in  our  hearts  that 
night.  Rocked  by  the  measured  stroke  of  the  engine  driving  wheels 
and  lulled  by  the  systematic  puff,  puff,  puff,  we  soon  passed  tranquilly 
out  of  all  consciousness  of  the  pleasant  experiences  of  the  day. 


CHAPTER  XXXIV. 

E  were  rapidly  approaching  the  end.  Human  nature  was  begin- 
ning to  assert  itself  as  the  tension  and  excitement  incident  to 
such  an  undertaking  as  the  pilgrimage  began  to  diminish.  With 
no  further  worries  attending  the  accomplishment  of  the  many 
details  of  the  tour,  the  pilgrims  relaxed.  So  tired  were  they,  that  even 
the  "Alarm  Clock"  failed  to  operate  successfully.  Everyone  appeared 
late  for  breakfast,  and  sat  long  at  dinner  indulging  at  length  in  gossip, 
reviewing  the  pilgrimage. 

Pleasant  experiences  of  the  past  six  weeks  were  dwelt  upon — for 
even  thus  early  did  some  of  the  episodes  of  the  trip  begin  to  rise  in 
memory  and  appeal  to  us  in  their  humorous  light.  When  traveling, 
the  daily  incidents  often  become  routine  and  uninteresting,  but  when 
placed  six  weeks  and  several  thousand  miles  behind,  the  mind  care- 
fully sorts  out  the  worthy  from  the  unworthy  and  the  experiences  which 
are  truly  valued  are  magnified  in  the  mind's  eye  to  their  full  worth 
while  others  vanish  from  memory. 

It  was  a  merry  gathering  that  occupied  the  four  coaches.  Laughter 
and  chatter  echoed  and  re-echoed  from  car  to  car.  Back  and  forth,  from 
coach  to  coach,  members  of  the  party  visited  one  another  to  give  some 
farewell  instruction  or  offer  a  suggestion  looking  to  the  comfort  of 
one  another.  The  long  tour  had  brought  the  pilgrims  together  in  close 
companionship  and  welded  inseparable  friendships.  The  four  coaches 
had  become  our  dwelling  on  wheels,  and  we  all  abode  together  in  har- 
mony, peace  and  happiness.  It  was  not  only  like  a  big  gathering  of 
friends  in  the  drawing  room  of  some  host  who  was  on  equally  good 
terms  with  all,  and  who  made  everyone  feel  that  there  was  no  restraint 
or  conventionality  to  be  reckoned  with;  but  in  truth  it  was  one  "Big 
Happy  Family." 

While  merriment  was  at  its  height,  the  startling  discovery  was 
made  that  Sir  D.  B.  Watson  was  missing.  The  news  spread  rapidly  and 


312        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

excitement  ran  high.  Surely,  he  must  be  somewhere  on  board,  for  he 
had  been  seen  on  the  train  after  leaving  St.  Louis.  Could  he  have 
fallen  off  in  passing  from  coach  to  coach?  This  was  the  question  asked 
by  many,  although  the  train  was  vestibuled  throughout. 

An  exploring  party  was  formed  and  a  systematic  search  of  the 
train  was  begun,  but  many  feared  the  worst.  For  a  time  no  clue  could 
be  found  leading  to  a  solution  of  the  mysterious  disappearance.  Hope 
had  been  abandoned  by  many  as  the  party  entered  the  fourth  car. 
After  carefully  scrutinizing  this  coach  the  "man-hunters"  were  startled, 
when,  upon  reaching  the  very  end  of  the  coach  they  saw  another  coach 
trailing  in  the  rear.  At  first  they  thought  it  a  phantom  but  investi- 
gation proved  it  to  be  a  substantial  and  truly  material  car.  Entering 
it,  they  found  as  its  sole  occupant,  our  dear  missing  "Davie,"  traveling 
in  state,  in  a  private  car.  Explanations  were  in  order  and  it  was  learned 
that  by  some  mistake  or  for  some  unknown  intent,  the  railroad  company 
had  added  another  coach  to  our  "Special"  in  St.  Louis,  and  Sir  David, 
finding  the  car  attached  in  the  rear,  occupied  it  in  solitude  to  "day- 
dream" over  his  pleasant  experiences  of  the  past  few  weeks. 

It  did  not  require  much  encouragement  to  lead  the  stray  sheep 
back  into  the  fold,  and  the  fifth  coach  was  left  uninhabited  to  follow 
in  the  wake  of  the  quartet  of  cars  to  which  we  had  ever  been  loyal, 
and  which  were  ever  ready  to  receive  and  comfort  us.  Each  car  had  its 
function  as  a  stage  upon  which  we  enacted  our  life  on  the  rail.  The 
first,  or  commissary  car,  was  the  circus  ring  in  which  conventionalities 
were  somersaulted,  fixed  rules  became  acrobatic,  and  the  jesters  and 
performers  of  all  kinds  were  given  free  rein,  much  to  the  delight  and 
approbation  of  the  onlookers. 

The  second,  or  "stag"  coach,  was  the  burlesque  stage  where  life 
was  made  a  pleasant  comedy  and  serious  thought  was  not  permitted 
to  prevail.  It  was  here  that  good  nature  found  no  room  for  the  burdens 
of  life,  and  where  pleasure  ran  riot. 

The  third  coach  was  justly  termed  the  "haven  of  opera."  It  was 
here  that  the  musical  voices  of  the  ladies  lent  an  ever  present  cheer,  and 
their  very  presence  sung  a  solace  into  our  hearts  that  was  comforting 
and  inspiring. 

The  fourth  coach,  occupied  chiefly  by  the  older  members  of  the 
party,  was  the  stage  of  the  "legitimate  performers."  It  was  here  that 
the  scene-shifting  of  nature  found  its  fullest  appreciation.  Seasoned  by 
the  experiences  of  years,  the  audience  was  competent  to  enter  into  the 
full  enjoyment  of  the  comedies  and  was  fully  capable  of  appreciating 
the  lessons  offered  by  the  more  sedate  experiences  of  the  pilgrimage. 
It  was  in  this  coach  that  the  "wheat"  was  more  carefully  separated 
from  the  "chaff,"  but  each  was  given  the  fullest  consideration,  and  re- 
ceived the  approval  it  deserved. 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        313 

Onward  rushed  the  train,  apparently  as  anxious  to  reach  its  desti- 
nation as  were  its  occupants.  The  sun  was  going  down,  a  brilliant  disc 
in  crimson  mists,  radiating  the  sky  with  its  dying  beams  like  an  aurora 
borealis,  and  diffusing  a  beautiful  glow  over  the  landscape. 

We  were  going  home.  Those  who  do  not  believe  that  this  knowl- 
edge makes  a  deep  impression  on  the  traveler,  have  never  been  far 
from  the  family  fireside;  have  never  looked  ahead  through  the  mists 
and  lowering  gray  skies  as  we  did,  for  the  first  sight  of  dear  home. 
Our  hearts  throbbed  with  expectancy  and  our  eyes  were  dim  with  glad 
moisture  as  we  watched  and  watched  with  straining  orbs  and  finally 
stood  up  and  shouted  in  a  spontaneous  burst  of  gladness,  when  at  last 
we  crossed  the  state  line,  and  were  again  in  our  dear,  cherished,  im- 
comparable  Pennsylvania. 

Smiles,  laughter,  shouts  of  delight  and  the  hum  of  conversation 
were  much  in  evidence  after  the  border  line  of  the  state  had  been  crossed. 
Expressions  of  impatience  to  know  how  the  dear  ones  were  at  home 
were  general.  Every  thought  turned  inquiringly  to  ask  who  would  be 
waiting  at  the  station  to  offer  greetings  of  welcome.  Would  mother  be 
able  to  come  down?  Surely  father  would  be  there;  while  there  were 
those  who  were  wishing,  with  an  inexpressible  yearning,  that  someone 
else  might  think  enough  of  them  to  "run  down"  to  the  station  and  lend 
cheer  to  the  home-coming. 

From  the  car  windows  and  the  side  door  of  the  commissary  car 
beamed  happy  faces,  with  radiance  of  expression  that  challenged  the 
brightness  of  "Old  Sol"  himself.  Lips  pouted  at  the  seeming  endless 
delay,  which  was  magnified  as  thoughts  focused  themselves  on  the  sight 
of  those  waiting  to  clasp  the  pilgrims  in  welcoming  embrace. 

Before  Pittsburgh  was  reached  and  as  the  train  was  nearing  the  dear 
old  town,  goodbyes  were  exchanged  over  and  over  again,  for  everyone 
realized  that  once  they  reached  Pittsburgh  there  would  be  so  many  they 
had  not  seen  for  six  weeks,  that  their  companions  might  become  lost 
without  a  parting  farewell.  So  everyone  made  doubly  sure  by  repeat- 
ing the  aurevoirs  for  50  miles  into  Pittsburgh. 

Slowly  but  surely  the  yawning  mouth  of  the  Union  Station  train 
sheds  drew  nearer  and  nearer,  until  finally,  with  triumphant  and  re- 
sounding puffs  the  monster  engine  entered  its  portals.  Before  the  train 
came  to  a  stop  the  pilgrims  crowded  upon  the  platforms  of  the  coaches, 
shouting,  laughing  and  almost  weeping  for  very  joy— a  rhapsody  of 
the  homing  instinct  which  is  common  to  all  kind— and  as  soon  as  the 
porters  opened  the  doors  there  was  an  outburst  of :  "Hello  there  John ;" 
"Well,  well,  well,  if  there  isn't  Frank ;"  "how  in  the  world  have  you  been 
George;"  "My,  but  you  are  looking  fine;"  "where  is  Oscar?"  and  scores 
of  other  expressions  of  welcome  and  delight  were  offered,  almost  in 
unison. 


314        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

The  trainmen  were  jostled  by  the  surging  crowd  of  friends  that 
surrounded  and  took  possession  of  the  train,  and  the  human  freight  it 
contained.  In  a  moment  there  was  a  hubhub  on  the  platform  which 
could  be  heard  a  square  away.  Glad  cries  of  welcome;  loud  resounding 
smacks  of  father,  mother,  brother  or  someone  who  hopes  to  become  a 
relative  some  day ;  long  and  endearing  hugs  and  kisses  in  showers  from 
a  contingent  of  the  gentler  sex;  and  then  such  a  babble  from  hundreds 
of  tongues,  as  has  seldom  astonished  the  staid  and  gloomy  station. 

Then  came  the  sudden  announcement  that  the  "Special"  would  be 
continued  to  Allegheny — an  unexpected  provision.  Instantly  there  was 
a  rush  to  re-board  the  train  and  every  seat  and  all  available  standing 
room,  both  within  the  cars  and  on  the  platforms  became  occupied  by  the 
tourists  and  those  who  had  welcomed  them. 

When  Allegheny  was  reached  we  were  literally  carried  away  by 
delegations  of  the  good,  old  home  folks,  Sir  Knights  and  friends.  And, 
so,  in  chatter,  happiness,  gladness  and  merriment  the  pilgrims  were  hur- 
ried home,  where,  doubtless,  they  sat  until  time  was  forgotten,  and  told 
until  early  dawn,  some  word  picture  or  anecdote  of  the  wonderful  trip. 
Willing  ears  listened  eagerly  as  the  tourists  related  adventures  which 
befell  them  upon  a  pilgrimage  of  interesting  experiences  and  an  exhaust- 
less  store  of  sublime  and  lovely  memories. 

And  so  the  dear,  sweet  faces  melted  away  like  the  fresh  and  deli- 
cate snow  flakes  under  the  warm  rays  of  the  noon  sun,  with  nature's  best 
sentiment — home — the  one  word  which  is  the  beginning  and  the  end. 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        315 


CONCLUSION. 

EFORE  bringing  this  work  to  a  conclusion,  hastily  as  it  may  have 
been  prepared,  let  us  glance  back  over  our  party,  the  pilgrimage, 
and  its  success,  and  the  admirable  arrangements  which  were  pro- 
vided during  our  tour. 

It  is  primarily  important  to  say  that  any  and  all  mention  made  in 
these  pages  of  any  member  or  members  of  the  party,  has  been  in  the  very 
kindliest  spirit  and  humor,  without  a  single  exception.  The  writer  holds 
no  thought  other  than  kindness  and  good  feeling,  and  his  intention  has 
been  far  removed  from  any  motive  to  jeer  or  wound;  his  every  effort  has 
been  in  the  fullest  intent  of  loving  and  kindly  feeling. 

Though  the  writer  was  with  the  party  throughout  the  entire  pilgrim- 
age, it  will  be  noted  that  he  has  evaded  the  personal  pronoun  throughout 
this  account,  for,  as  announced,  he  deemed  it  advisable  to  deviate  from  the 
usual  custom  of  authors  in  "singing  a  song  of  himself."  The  pilgrimage 
was  a  "long  engagement"  and  a  "continuous  performance,"  and  every 
member  of  the  cast  should  receive  due  credit  and  applause  for  the  part 
played.  It  may  be  truthfully  stated  that  there  might  have  been  incidents 
of  unusual  interest  during  that  long  tour,  which  escaped  the  eye  of  the 
writer,  and  if  such  oversight  has  wrought  to  the  disadvantage  of  any,  due 
and  humble  apology  is  hereby  made. 

If  the  writer  has  been  guilty  (in  some  instances)  of  exaggerating 
some  of  the  incidents  of  the  tour,  it  has  been  for  the  same  reason  that 
artificial  cultivation  often  aids  nature  in  rearing  flowers  and  vegetation  to 
their  fullest  and  ripest  bloom,  and  for  the  same  reason  that  fruits  attain 
larger  size  and  more  appetizing  appearance  under  nursed  conditions — 
that  they  may  be  more  fully  appreciated.  Should  any  members  of  the 
party  feel  disposed  to  deny  their  guilt  or  participation  in  any  of  the  inci- 
dents with  which  they  are  associated  in  this  work,  the  writer  stands  ready 
to  accept  any  such  denial  and  will  himself  furnish  an  alibi  by  admitting 
his  own  guilt  of  anything  of  which  the  pilgrims  might  plead  innocence. 

As  the  writer  sat  in  his  home,  night  after  night,  far  into  that  vast  and 
mysterious  void  which  men  call  sleep,  preparing  this  work,  scenes  of 
the  tour  arose  before  him  and  brought  back  vivid  memories.  As  he 
looked  about  him  and  again  saw  those  same  bright,  wholesome,  congenial 


316        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

faces,  how  he  longed  to  give  proper  expression  to  those  feelings  and 
to  depict  the  pleasing  scenes  that  arose  before  him.  There  was  a  great 
and  impressive  something  that  occupied  his  mind  and  stirred  his  very, 
soul.  His  mind  seemed  to  wander  over  that  vast  realm  of  space  which 
the  pilgrims  had  traversed,  presenting  a  symposium  of  a  thousand  most 
happy  incidents,  scenes  and  events.  He  felt  that  he  was  on  the  tour 
again.  He  saw  the  prairie  land  blend  into  the  picturesqueness  of  Yellow- 
stone Park  and  emerge  into  the  sea  of  desert  waste.  The  verdant  valley 
of  the  Sacramento  then  carried  the  writer  into  the  gala  conclave  city  of 
San  Francisco,  where  the  carnival  of  joy  and  festivity  reigned  supreme. 
He  heard  the  ocean's  roar  and  the  beating  of  the  waves  upon  Seal  Rocks, 
but  above  it  all — higher,  louder  and  clearer  than  Nature's  rhapsody,  rose 
a  babel  of  voices,  which  in  one  accord,  to  one  another,  beckoned:  "Pil- 
grim, I  greet  thee."  He  felt,  once  more,  the  touch  of  the  warm  hand- 
shake of  fraternal  and  brotherly  hospitality,  and  while  basking  cheer- 
fully in  this  delightful  vision,  the  fairy  of  dreamland  beckoned  him 
come — how  reluctantly  he  followed — and  escorting  him  through  rare  and 
beautiful  gardens  to  enjoy,  for  a  moment,  the  sun-kissed  breezes  of  Del 
Monte,  ushered  him  into  the  City  of  Los  Angeles  to  again  mingle  with 
the  dear  fraters  who  dwell  therein.  But  what  a  brief  visit  it  was — for 
just  as  the  sea  of  friendly  faces  smiled  forth  their  ever-ready  welcome, 
the  scene  blended  into  a  luxuriant  valley  of  fruits  and  flowers,  only  to 
emerge  again  into  the  dreariness  of  the  vast  arid  desert.  But  out  of  this 
wearisome  vista,  as  if  touched  by  some  magic  wand,  sprang  forth  the 
majestic,  gorgeous  and  inspiring  spectacle  of  the  Grand  Canyon  of 
Arizona,  attired  in  its  most  enchanting  mantle,  under  the  light  of  the 
setting  sun ;  and  as  night  seemed  to  come,  the  writer  saw  the  canyon 
fade  into  the  distance — heard  a  chatter  of  foreign  tongues  as  the 
imaginary  train  winged  past  the  city  of  St.  Louis,  and  as  the  vision 
of  scores  of  dear  ones  offering  a  "Welcome  home"  arose  in  vivid  real- 
ity, he  reached  forward  to  grasp  the  extended  hand  of  welcome — only 
to  find  himself  alone. 

That  the  members  of  our  party,  both  young  and  old,  were  as  con- 
genial and  desirable  companions  as  could  be  chosen,  was  so  clearly  dem- 
onstrated as  to  be  beyond  the  slightest  doubt — and  what  delightful  and 
wholesome  companions  they  are  at  home !  What  a  privilege  and  pleasure 
it  would  be  to  have  them  on  another  tour,  considering  the  personification 
of  good  cheer  and  fellowship  that  prevailed  throughout  the  California  pil- 
grimage. So  it  behooves  the  writer  to  declare  with  all  the  sincerity  and 
emphasis  at  his  command,  nothing  would  afford  him  more  delight  than  to 
be  with  them  again,  and  once  more  enter  into  the  full  enjoyment  of 
another  such  pilgrimage. 

It  would  be  well  if  such  an  excursion  were  made  every  year,  and 
the  system  regularly  inaugurated.  Travel  broadens  the  mind  and  encour- 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        317 

ages  wholesome,  charitable  views  of  men  and  things.  How  many  people 
die  annually  who  have  never  been  20  miles  from  their  own  homestead. 
What  do  they  know  of  the  world?  Nothing,  absolutely  nothing,  except 
what  they  read  in  history  or  learn  by  hearsay.  It  is  the  duty  of  all  to 
rise  from  their  slothfulness,  shake  off  any  nightmare,  go  forth  and  view 
the  Almighty's  great  creation,  and  they  will  bless  the  day  that  they  have 
taken  steps  to  larger  and  more  comprehensive  ideas. 

And  there  is  no  pleasanter  mode  of  traveling  than  the  one  by  which 
we  made  our  pilgrimage.  There  was  no  changing  of  trains  and  com- 
panions almost  constantly.  Unlike  ordinary  travelers,  we  were  not  com- 
pelled to  forsake  comrades  whose  diverging  routes  cause  a  separation 
soon  after  an  acquaintanceship  and  companionship  is  formed.  Nor 
were  we  compelled  to  break  the  attachment  one  always  has  for  a 
particular  train  and  its  crew.  The  unpleasant  duties  of  directing 
baggage  from  point  to  point  and  from  train  to  train  were  lost  to  our 
party.  We  packed  our  trunks  but  thrice  in  our  tour  of  six  weeks — 
when  we  left  home,  when  we  entered  Yellowstone  Park  and  when 
we  emerged  from  the  park.  We  estimated  how  long  we  would  be 
gone  and  figured,  with  mathematical  nicety,  the  amount  of  clothing 
we  should  need. 

It  never  became  necessary  for  us  to  seek  companionship,  for  our 
"happy  family"  was  a  large  and  harmonious  one.  Often  we  sympathized 
with  those  who  were  compelled  to  travel  alone  and  who  yearned  for  the 
companionship  of  strangers.  In  desert  or  fertile  valley,  on  the  plains  or  on 
the  prairie,  in  the  city  or  in  the  open  country,  the  cheerful  "Allegheny 
Special"  was  ever  ready  to  greet  us  with  all  the  hospitality  of  a  home, 
and  offered  an  invitation  of  peace,  comfort  and  satisfaction  that  never 
failed  to  appeal  to  us  and  which  we  were  always  eager  to  enjoy. 

Only  the  most  enthusiastic  words  of  satisfaction  and  appreciation 
came  from  the  tourists  when  commenting  upon  the  pilgrimage.  Not  an 
incident  marred  it;  not  a  jangle  or  discordant  note  was  heard  in  the  tune 
of  good  fellowship.  It  was  indeed  a  "big,  happy  family,"  with  the  fullest 
confidence  in  all  its  members,  all  of  them  united  in  the  common  endeavor 
to  extract  from  their  journey  all  the  pleasure,  all  the  happiness  and  all 
the  information  and  instruction  possible.  This  was  demonstrated  not 
only  by  word  of  mouth,  but  by  expression  of  faces— with  the  soul  and 
mind  satisfaction  of  an  ambition  fulfilled,  a  goal  reached. 

Too  much  appreciation  cannot  be  expressed  of  the  admirable  arrange- 
ments under  which  we  traveled  and  which  relieved  the  minds  of  the  tour- 
ists of  all  the  many  details  ordinarily  incident  to  traveling.  The  slightest 
fault  could  not  be  found  with  the  manner  in  which  our  tour  was  conducted. 
Its  program  was  faithfully  carried  out— yes,  and  more.  Those  who  so 
loyally  and  royally  served  us  as  our  committee— Sirs  Harry  W.  Lowrie, 
Oscar  Schulze  and  Herman  Flechsig— are  so  well  known  that  no  words 


318        A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE 

can  make  them  better  acquainted.  With  hearts  full  of  sympathy  and 
good  will,  they  were  ever  ready  to  make  life  pleasant  for  the  pilgrims 
under  their  care.  In  them  was  the  authority,  and  as  a  committee 
the  responsibility  justly  placed.  To  them  we  are  largely  indebted  for 
the  complete  and  successful  carrying  out  of  the  joyous  pilgrimage. 

The  frequent  mention  of  the  gentlemen  portion  of  the  roster  and  the 
apparent  oversight  of  the  ladies  might  bring  forth  a  charge  of  ungal- 
lantry,  but  the  best  cards  are  always  played  last.  Too  much  tribute  can- 
not be  paid  the  nineteen  ladies  who  accompanied  us,  and  whose  very  pres- 
ence lent  cheerfulness  at  all  times. 

It  seems  almost  incredible,  but  it  is  none  the  less  true,  that  from  the 
time  we  left  Allegheny  until  we  returned,  moving  as  rapidly  as  we  did, 
up  in  the  morning  early,  making  close  connection  here  and  there,  not  one 
single  moment  of  detention  was  caused  by  the  ladies.  Never  a  word  of 
complaint,  even  as  to  weariness  or  fatigue,  was  expressed  by  them  during 
that  entire  tour,  but  from  one  and  all  there  came  a  pleasant,  smiling, 
cheerful  "Good  morning"  with  the  opening  of  the  day,  while  at  the  close 
came  the  wish  for  a  "Good  night"  with  equal  cheerfulness.  To  each  indi- 
vidual lady  do  we  attribute  much  of  the  pleasure  enjoyed  by  us  during  the 
trip.  The  sunshine  of  their  faces,  as  well  as  their  deeds,  blazed  our  path- 
way across  the  continent  and  return.  And  their  kindnesses  were  of  the 
practical  kind — ever  ready  with  needle,  thread  and  button  to  do  us  a 
much-needed  service.  With  them  near,  we  felt  as  though  we  were  under 
the  protecting  wings  of  our  own  dear  mothers,  while  any  little  headache 
or  trifling  ailment  brought  a  corps  of  nurses  that  furnished  hurried  relief. 
A  dozen  mothers  stood  ready  to  give  us  parental  attention  at  all  times. 
As  we  passed  through  the  train,  rode  the  stage  coaches  through  Yellow- 
stone Park,  dined  with  them  at  hotel  tables  or  greeted  them  on  the  streets 
of  a  score  of  different  cities,  we  were  constantly  reminded  of  home — 
expressions  wreathed  in  smiles  ever  beamed  from  their  countenances. 
From  our  hearts  we  earnestly  wish  that  the  very  smallest  portion  of 
earth's  sorrows  allotted  to  poor  humanity  may  be  the  share  of  their  dear 
hearts,  and  that  their  lives  shall  always  be  bright,  clear  and  sparkling  as 
the  rivulet  which  flows  from  its  cool  mountain  home,  and  as  the  dew 
drop  upon  the  leaf,  glistening  in  the  glad  morning  sun,  which  shall  never 
dim  nor  fade  away,  is  the  heartfelt  wish  of  their  fellow  pilgrims. 

So  here  ends  this  recital  of  a  memory  that  will  remain  long  with  the 
writer,  and  no  doubt  with  every  member  of  the  party  who  participated 
in  the  pilgrimage.  The  grand  tour  has  ended  and  taken  its  place  among 
the  things  that  were.  Its  varied  scenes  and  manifold  incidents  will  ever 
linger  pleasantly  in  our  memories.  Always  on  the  wing — flying  as  it 
were,  merely  pausing  a  moment  here  and  there  to  catch  fitful  glimpses  of 
the  wonders  of  our  country ;  we  could  not  hope  to  receive  or  retain  vivid 
impressions  of  it  all.  Yet  our  flight  has  not  been  in  vain — for  above  the 


A  MERRY  CRUSADE  TO  THE  GOLDEN  GATE        319 

confusion  of  vague  recollections,  certain  of  its  prize  pictures  lift  them- 
selves to  continue  perfect  in  tint  and  outline  after  their  surroundings 
have  faded  away. 

More  than  a  year  has  flown  since  our  notable  pilgrimage  has  end- 
ed. The  writer  has  often  thought — and  as  he  sits  here  thinking — see- 
ing the  same  good,  sweet  friends,  he  is  moved  to  confess,  that  day  by 
day,  the  mass  of  memories  have  grown  more  and  more  a  pleasure.  If 
another  call  for  a  like  tour  were  issued,  nothing  would  gratiiy  the 
writer  more  than  to  be  numbered  among  the  party — with  the  same  Sir 
Knights  and  companions — yes,  and  the  same  dear,  good-natured  sin- 
ners, of  which  he  cheerfully  confesses — he  was  one. 


IFn  flfoemorfam. 


"In  the  midst  of  life  we  are  in  death."  The  evidence  of  this  oft-re- 
peated truth  again  becomes  apparent  with  the  sad  duty  of  chronicling  in 
these  pages,  the  death  of  a  worthy  Sir  Knight  who  was  numbered  with 
our  party  of  happy  tourists  who  made  the  pilgrimage  to  the  Twenty- 
ninth  Triennial  Conclave — 

SIR  PHILIP  STEINMILLER, 
of  McKees  Rocks,  Pa. 

Reaped  in  his  full  harvest  of  kindness  and  loving  attainments,  Sir 
Steinmiller  was  called  to  the  Asylum  above,  November  I,  1905;  having 
ended  his  long  pilgrimage  among  his  fellowmen.  We  are  all  pilgrims 
moving  in  the  same  great  procession  to  that  unseen  land  from  which 
none  return.  The  final  voyage  to  that  harbor  of  everlasting  life  offers 
itself  as  a  privilege  to  the  most  deserving.  It  is  not  appropriate  that  we 
go  as  unwilling  captives  bound  to  the  chariot  wheels  of  all-conquering 
death.  There  is  no  occasion  for  us  to  lift  up  our  voices  in  wailing  and 
terror  when  the  message  comes  that  calls  us  away.  If  we  trust  in  Christ, 
who  giveth  victory,  our  departure  will  be  a  triumphal  march  and  the  close 
of  life  will  be  a  coronation.  Who  would  not  wish  to  have  the  last  stages 
of  earthly  journey  adorned  with  the  surpassing  grace  and  glory  of  Chris- 
tian hope?  Who  would  not  choose  to  pass  away  in  light  and  joy,  as  the 
leaves  put  on  their  loveliest  hues  when  about  to  die ;  as  the  morning  star 
melts  into  the  superior  glory  of  the  coming  sun ;  as  the  rosy  dawn  bright- 
ens into  the  full  day  ?  Who  would  not  wish,  in  dying,  to  go  as  Sir  Stein- 
miller  and  others  before  him  have  gone,  to  prepare  a  place  for  those 
who  must  stay  behind,  and  who  will  be  ever  ready  to  say  to  us,  when  we 
pass  into  our  reward :  "Pilgrim,  I  greet  thee." 


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Un    flfoemorfam* 


In  His  tillage,  God  cultivates  many  flowers,  seemingly  only  for  their 
exquisite  beauty  and  fragrance.  Some,  when  bathed  in  soft  sunshine, 
burst  into  blossom,  only  to  be  gathered  from  earthly  fields  by  the  Divine 
Hand,  and  reposed  in  crystal  vases  in  the  mansions  above.  January  28, 
1905,  such  act  of  Providence  following  shortly  after  the  conclusion  of  our 
transcontinental  tour,  took  from  our  midst  one  of  the  dear  pilgrims  of  our 
"Big,  Happy  Family"— 

MISS  MAGGIE  STEINMILLER, 
of  McKees  Rocks,  Pa. 

While  those  who  are  dear  and  near  to  us  pass  beyond — some  in  the 
sweet  bud ;  some  in  the  fallen  blossom — none  are  taken  too  early  to  make 
Heaven  fairer  and  sweeter  with  their  immortal  bloom. 

By  her  every  endeavor  to  administer  to  all  by  kind  word  or  sisterly 
act,  Miss  Steinmiller  had  endeared  herself  into  the  warm  recesses  of 
every  heart — not  only  among  those  who  shared  the  pilgrimage,  but 
among  all  who  had  the  good  fortune  to  know  her.  Her  ever-cheerful 
"Good  morning"  and  kindly  "Good  night"  on  every  day  of  the  tour  of  six 
weeks,  were  pronounced  with  the  true  ring  of  sincerity,  while  her  willing- 
ness at  all  times  to  lend  her  aid  to  benefit  one  or  all,  helped  make  our 
pathway  smooth  and  pleasant. 

She  now  speaks  in  the  ear  of  memory  and  affection.  Friends  we  have 
loved  pass  from  sight — but  they  live  in  memory  and  in  our  hearts,  while 
their  voices  come  back,  richer  and  more  impressive  than  we  appreciated 
when  seeing  their  moving  lips. 

She  passed  away,  gave  little  warning ; 

A  last  "Good  Night ;"  and  in  some  brighter  clime 

Awaits  to  bid  us,  "Good  Morning." 


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